WEBVTT

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I love a good comeback story and Intel

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is the kind of guy that just keeps getting back up. Not only are we about

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to recommend their graphics card for a $1,000 budget build, we're about to

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recommend a Core i5 12600K.

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Am I disappointed? We're going to put a 5-year-old processor in a brand new

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computer? Yes, but unfortunately, that's just

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things sometimes. Truly the wildest of times. So wild in

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fact that I'm going to be showing you how to build a PC.

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Hello, old friend. It's been a while.

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Nearly 7 years since I was at the helm

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guiding you, young viewer, on your 1440p

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capable gaming rig journey. And Linus

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was there, too, I guess. Now it's time for my comeback story. So take my hand.

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Hold on tight. It looks a little scary out there, but

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hey, things are going to be all right. Yeah.

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Sponsor time. Tello, a wireless option that doesn't drive you crazy? Tello me

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about it. Tello Mobile offers flexible and affordable phone plans with prices

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up to $25 a month. Check them out using our link down below. We're starting with

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our CPU, Team Blue's Core i5 12600K.

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True, AMD's more popular these days, but their latest socket AM5 is only

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compatible with DDR5 memory, which is out of our reach.

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Thanks to how things are. And their previous generation AM4 X3D chips are

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being scalped. Very cool. Luckily for us, our 1440p resolution target means

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that our GPU will be doing a bit more of the work than the CPU, which may not be

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the case at lower resolutions. And that means we don't need something as beefy

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as a 9800 X3D. Would it be nice?

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Yeah, but this little guy right here with six P cores and four E cores offers

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solid bang for the buck right now and a decent upgrade path later. Next.

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Wow, delivery. Motherboard. Upgrading should be easy thanks to our reasonably

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beefy motherboard. ASUS's sleekly titled

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B760M A Y W Wi-Fi D4 II. These days, 100

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bucks is about as cheap as decent boards get. It's got competent VRMs. Just maybe

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don't try to run a 14900K in this thing. A PCIe Gen 5 expansion slot and 2 and

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1/2 gig LAN. Look, I'm going to level with you guys. I would have loved a

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USB-C port on the rear IO or an internal header. But $100 is $100. Now, before we

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get to assembly, let's make sure we've got the usual suspects of PC building

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supplies. You will need some kind of screwdriver. I'm partial to this one

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from lttstore.com. And you'll want some extra help in the

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form of a magnetic parts tray, zip ties, side cutters, and sometimes a set of

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needle-nose pliers come in handy, too. Last but not least, wear an ESD wrist or

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ankle strap that's properly grounded. To install our CPU, we're going to start by

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putting our motherboard on top of the box that it came in. This works as a

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great little work platform that eases any fears of scraping the back of the

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board by accident. Next is one of the only steps where you can kind of easily

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wreck your motherboard. We're going to unlatch our socket cover like so, take

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our CPU, and line up the golden triangle with the bottom left corner. It's pretty

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small and hard to see, so sometimes I like to just line up the top and bottom

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notches here and here. Once you're ready, gently place the CPU

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into the socket. Don't force it. If it's not dropping in nicely, carefully pick

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it up and try again. It's okay. Once it

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looks like it's in properly, give it a little wiggle to make sure it's seated.

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Just a little one. Then push the cover down and close the latch. This does take

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a little bit more force than you might expect, but don't worry. You're doing

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fine. Don't be alarmed when the cover pops off. That's supposed to happen.

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Throw it into your motherboard box. You will need this if you ever have to RMA

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your board. Now, let's talk memory. This 2 by 8 gig kit of DDR4 from G.Skill cost

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us about 150 bucks. That's bad, but at

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least they're high-speed, low-latency modules. So, unless you need more

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capacity, you shouldn't need to upgrade for quite a while. You can save a buck

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here and get this kit from Crucial, but we felt this was a pretty reasonable

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spot to spend an extra 25 bucks for better performance. We are going to use

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this very similar kit from Patriot today because we don't want to buy more DDR4

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that could go into someone's hands who needs it. This kit has got slightly

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tighter timings, but performance should be relatively the same. The nice thing

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about mATX sized motherboards like the one we're going with is they often just

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have two DIMM slots, so you won't be confused about in which slot your DIMM

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should go. And we've only got two DIMMs. So, we'll just undo the clips at the

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top, line up the key like so, then push

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the module into the slot firmly with your thumbs until you hear a click.

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Repeat for module two, and that's RAM installed. Easy. By the way, if you run

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into trouble later, I can't stress enough how often unseated RAM is the

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issue. So, remove these and try again for one of your first potential

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troubleshooting steps. Next,

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cooler. Y'all's need something to take the heat away from the CPU, and it's

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hard to go wrong with Thermalright these days. The Peerless Assassin 90 SE should

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be plenty for our CPU today and probably

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enough for most chips we might upgrade to tomorrow as long as it's not a Core

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i9. Coolers typically have different mounting instructions depending on the

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brand or model of cooler and the motherboard socket it's being strapped

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to. If you have a different cooler than the one we're using today, then follow

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those instructions. Otherwise, follow mine. Start by grabbing the LGA 1700

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hardware. Our back plate already has the sliders installed, so adjust them as

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needed to fit these four holes around the CPU socket. Peel the sticky strips,

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install the back plate right way up, then put down these plastic spacers over

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the mounting posts. Next, take the two straight brackets and

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put them over the spacers with this mounting post facing up, then screw them

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down with the included screws. Make sure to apply thermal paste. A little dab'll

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do ya, but you can't ruin performance by overdoing it, so feel free to use

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whatever style you prefer. I'm partial to one big line down the middle. Now,

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before installing the cooler, don't forget the peel. It's fun and also

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important. Remove the sticker from the bottom of your cooler, place it down on

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the CPU, and screw it down onto the brackets. As for the fan, orient the

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cable so it's in the bottom right corner, slide it into the middle, and

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then pull the clips back over the heat sink like so. Lastly, plug this into

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your CPU fan header up here, and you can feel free to tuck the excess cabling

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underneath. Well, where are we going to put all this hardware? Well, there are

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many cases like the Sama SVO2,

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but this one is mine. And for just $60 on sale, it's pretty tough to beat.

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There's plenty of space for big coolers or graphics cards, comes with a few ARGB

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fans, has a Type-C port on the front IO, and it looks a lot like the more upscale

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Height x 60. Okay. To To clear, our board doesn't

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have a Type-C header, so that top IO port is just for show right now. Uh if

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you want, you can get a Type-C adapter add-in card for pretty cheap, but we

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won't be covering that in this video. All right.

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Let's pop our motherboard in there. Start by removing the front and side

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glass panels. This may take some force, and you might need a plastic prying

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tool, but they just pop off and slide out like so. Put the case on its side

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and confirm the standoffs match the motherboard. Ours started out ready for

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ATX, so use the standoff removal tool and move the two bottom posts to here

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and here. We're going to make sure the IO shield is installed on our motherboard, then

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pick the board up by the cooler and install it gently onto the standoffs.

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You really don't want to scrape the board against the posts. So, if it's not

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seated right, just lift it up and try again.

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Next, screw it down with these six screws like so.

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Hey. Nice. Now, at this point, you're

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probably screaming at me, "RILEY! YOU

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DIDN'T INSTALL AN NVMe SSD yet!"

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And you're right, because guess what? Now SSDs and hard drives are expensive,

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too. So, that means we're opting for a good old-fashioned 1 TB SATA SSD. Sure,

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DirectStorage is slowly happening, and a few games will benefit from a faster

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drive, but for the most part, we're talking about waiting maybe a few extra

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seconds in the lengthiest of loading screens.

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>> Welcome to Rust, or as I like to call it, welcome to hell. We wanted

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to make sure a 1 TB drive fit in our budget, and adding a faster drive later

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is one of the easiest upgrades you can do. Now, who knows what'll happen, but

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at the time of filming, prices are starting to stabilize a little bit. This

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Crucial drive is no longer on sale, but maybe check out this 1 TB Samsung 990

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Evo if you're willing to pay a little bit extra for a more modern drive. And

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your motherboard should include some SATA data cables that we're going to

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need. We like to plug into the board first and then route the cable out the

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back. We'll mount our drive to the case on the back where it's labeled SSD by

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taking the mounting tray off, screwing it down with these four screws, and then

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reattaching the tray to the case. Then attach the data cable. It's just that

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easy. This is also a good time to grab the tiny M.2 standoff and screw from

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your motherboard box and install that on the board for a future upgrade. These

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are really easy to lose and this will keep it safe. We're so close to being

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done, I can't wait. But first, the power supply. We bought this 650 watt 80 plus

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bronze unit from MSI for just 60 bucks.

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You can find cheaper options, but we've had good test experiences at the lab

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with these MSI MAG ABN units and 80 plus

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actually rates this guy as silver efficiency. The only issue we found with

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some poor performance with power brownouts. So, if you live somewhere

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with unreliable power, maybe check out the lab's website and pick something

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else that we've reviewed positively that fits your budget. The nice thing about

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non-modular power supplies is you can't really install the cables wrong because

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they're already plugged in. With the cables pulled out of the way, stick it

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into the basement, line it up with the screw holes, then screw it down. If your

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case, like ours, has a filter on the bottom, you can feel free to install the

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PSU in either orientation. Even if it's

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intaking air from the bottom, pet hair shouldn't be an issue. The annoying

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thing about non-modular units is we don't need all of these cables, but we

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do need most of them. Take your 24-pin ATX power connector and route it up

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through the side and to the board. Make sure it's keyed the right way before

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pressing down. Now, this is another moment that requires a little more force, but you can do it. I believe in

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you. Next, let's get our CPU power routed up through here and into our

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little 8-pin header. If there's not enough space for your hands, feel free

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to remove the cooler and just move it to the side. As long as you don't wipe that

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paste anywhere, you can just put it back on after no reapplication necessary.

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After that's in place, we'll route a pigtail eight-pin PCIe power cable out

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of the side and just leave it dangling here for later. We'll need both the

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eight-pin and the six-pin from that for the GPU. Finally, we need our SATA power

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cable. Now, this can stay in the back since all we need it for is our SSD and

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fan hub. Plug it in wherever you want along the chain and tuck the rest of the

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cable into the basement along with everything else we're not using. Now, we

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are at the moment you've all been waiting for, the Intel Arc B580,

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specifically the ASRock Steel Legend version with a little bit of overclock

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right out of the box. For $300, this is about as good as it

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gets with 12 gigs of VRAM and much improved driver support. It took Intel a

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little bit of time, okay? But, these little cards are great for

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1080p, good for 1440p, and

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capable of 4K gaming if you're willing to run everything on low and enable

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XeSS, okay? Typically, for a gaming PC, we recommend taking half of your budget

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and putting it towards the GPU, but uh you know, things are a little weird

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right now with memory and storage at all-time high prices and hard to obtain.

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Sure, graphics cards have gone up in price, but at least you can still buy

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them, making this a part you can easily upgrade in the future.

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Knock on a lot of that. Let's get our PCIe slot covers out of the way first by

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taking off the slot cover cover. You heard me. Once those are removed,

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eyeball the PCIe slot and do your best to line up the gold teeth with the slot.

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Once you're ready, give it a solid push to seat it into place. Screw it down

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where you removed the slot covers, then plug in our eight- and six-pin power

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connectors. We are so close, you guys. Okay, just got to wire everything else

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up. Plug in HD audio at the bottom left over here. Plug in our USB 3.0 slot near

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the ATX power connector over here. And then, let's get our fan hub plugged into

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any of our PWM fan headers. I'm going to

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use this one. I like its vibe. We're going to plug in our pre-daisy-chained

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ARGB cable to this header on the board up here. And last but not least, plug in

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your front panel header. Conveniently enough, this case has just one solid

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unit instead of a few individual pins. So, as long as it's oriented the right

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way, it just plugs right into your F panel header like so. Now, contrary to

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popular opinion, this next step is technically optional. For cable

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management, pull them all just a little bit taut to get rid of excess slack, and

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then we're going to use those zip ties to attach them to some of these handy

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tie-down points. It doesn't take a lot of time, and it looks much nicer after.

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Everything else, like those extra cables on our non-modular PSU, stuff them into

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the basement and never think about them again.

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Heck, yeah.

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All right, we're all done. This build is ready to game. Let's see

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how she goes. Ooh. The colors.

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Now, this is a hardware-focused video, so we're not going to get too into

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software tuning and all that, but I will just check that we are running at 1440p

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on this monitor, 240 hertz. Uh the RAM,

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uh as seen in the task manager, running at 3600 megatransfers per second. That's

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as it's supposed to be. We've got a fairly up-to-date driver on the Arc

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B580, and it's helpfully showing us that

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Resizable Bar is enabled. I'm, you know, I'm happy. But, leave a comment if you

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want us to do a video on how to tune your PC after you build it. I feel like

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that's a whole video in itself. With that out of the way, let's get into some

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games, okay? What What do we got installed locally here? Marathon, I

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haven't had a chance to play Marathon yet. So, we're going to do it on this

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brand new squeaky clean build. Who's that guy? I want to know. What's the

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lore? I do want to start with Marathon because it is a competitive shooter, but

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it is fairly new and as far as I understand the graphics are

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interesting to look at. I don't know if it's very intensive or not, but I'm

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going to give you my subjective experience. Wow.

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Now, that's what I call graphics. That's what you get when you get Riley house to

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LTT video. This is my the first time I've loaded in.

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It's beautiful. Look at those rocks. Uh

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We got a lot of weather effects and wind and rain. Okay, I'm at medium preset now

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getting about 100 FPS. Although, I'm not

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in a intensive combat situation. I don't

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like how it they all like load in so slowly like that. Are they like

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generating as you go? Survey drone cartridge. My backpack's full.

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Okay. I'm shooting people now. We got effects going. 86 FPS. Bam bam bam. Bam.

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Woah. Those are little missiles. Okay, 95 FPS for like some crazy, you

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know. BAM BAM BAM. OH.

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SO, THEN I CAN'T DO ANYTHING except give up. I'm going to give up. You won't turn

00:16:37.800 --> 00:16:43.720
me into a different kind of cybernetic Android

00:16:41.600 --> 00:16:47.600
thing. Okay, I'm not super happy with how that run went, but overall I'm kind

00:16:46.040 --> 00:16:51.240
of happy with the performance so far. I mean, we were at started in at highest

00:16:49.280 --> 00:16:54.160
settings. And you know, we're getting around 60-ish. That you probably want a

00:16:52.839 --> 00:16:58.080
bit more than that for a competitive shooter. So, we dropped down to medium.

00:16:56.000 --> 00:17:02.400
We're hovering around 100. You know, for a brand new game that's probably got

00:17:00.120 --> 00:17:05.439
some optimization yet to do. I'm happy with it and that's what's important.

00:17:03.920 --> 00:17:08.680
Marathon, that's a fast-paced competitive shooter, you know, a lot of

00:17:06.959 --> 00:17:11.760
jerky action. Now, we're in Resident Evil which is very calm and as I

00:17:10.560 --> 00:17:17.480
understand I haven't played a single one of the franchise, but as I understand it's a kind of a relaxing game, right?

00:17:15.400 --> 00:17:22.240
That's right. Why is it so dark in here though? That's my question. But in this

00:17:20.280 --> 00:17:27.800
dark room with almost nothing going on we got 71 FPS average.

00:17:25.880 --> 00:17:33.120
Oh, you can run. If I run am I going to run headfirst into a zombie?

00:17:31.120 --> 00:17:36.880
There's one. Has anyone tried healing them though? But I want action.

00:17:35.560 --> 00:17:44.200
Gosh. Oh, space is Jeez Louise. Why?

00:17:41.400 --> 00:17:48.080
Why isn't he dead? I shot him. Jeez. Guys in Resident Evil can just

00:17:46.360 --> 00:17:53.760
kind of take a couple zombie bites and you're fine? >> Yeah, you eat some herbs after. What

00:17:49.760 --> 00:17:56.520
kind of game is this? 71 FPS. Grenade.

00:17:53.760 --> 00:18:00.320
Give me some explosion effects. Whoa, we dropped down to 66. Plouffe fiddled

00:17:58.960 --> 00:18:06.720
around with the settings and some are medium, some are high. So it's kind of a mix of how he likes it. But you know, I

00:18:04.640 --> 00:18:09.520
think with a build like this it's not the kind of build where you're

00:18:08.120 --> 00:18:13.960
absolutely just going to be able to drop in at the highest settings. You are going to you know, you will you want to

00:18:12.400 --> 00:18:19.600
tune things especially for like more modern titles. But like even in this

00:18:15.680 --> 00:18:21.280
this game just came out 70 FPS or so

00:18:19.600 --> 00:18:24.680
it'll do especially for a kind of like a cozy GAME LIKE THIS.

00:18:26.200 --> 00:18:32.920
WELL, THERE YOU HAVE IT FOLKS. WE SPENT A little over a thousand dollars, but

00:18:30.360 --> 00:18:38.200
we're here and we're gaming. And at 1440p no less. Who could have

00:18:35.440 --> 00:18:42.360
guessed a few years ago that Intel would be a budget option not only for CPUs,

00:18:40.360 --> 00:18:45.440
but for graphics cards too. If you're interested in any of the parts we used

00:18:44.080 --> 00:18:49.160
in this build, we'll have those linked in the video description. Hey, why don't

00:18:47.400 --> 00:18:54.200
you head down there and leave a comment. Let me, Riley, the host of this video,

00:18:52.640 --> 00:18:58.640
know if you think we should have fit a beefier GPU in there, you know? What

00:18:56.040 --> 00:19:02.800
would you have sacrificed to make it all work?

00:19:00.480 --> 00:19:05.720
I'm pretty happy with it. Almost as happy as I am with this segue to our

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Thanks for watching. If you liked this video, make sure to check out the last

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time I helped Linus build a PC. Now, I'm doing it all by myself. I'm grown, papa.
