WEBVTT

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So, you might have seen our last attempt at making a heat sink where we took a

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reciprocating saw to a block of aluminum with what could best be described as

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limited success. But, of course, persistence is the name

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of the game here at LMG. So, we went through the YouTube comments which were

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full of suggestions about casting our

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own heat sink from molten aluminum and

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decided to set about doing it. But is

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that really the kind of thing that you can do with $100 worth of supplies and

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an empty warehouse? Well, there's only one way to know for

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sure.

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So, casting then. I guess we'll need a

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couch to No, we're talking about the

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kind of casting where a molten material is poured into a mold so that it

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solidifies in the desired shape. There are a couple of important elements that

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you need. A foam or plastic replica of

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the intended finished design and a material that you can mold around it

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that can hold its shape. The primary

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design considerations for our heat sink

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were how easy it would be to cast and

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how much heat it could dissipate. We kept it as simple as possible in Solid

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Works with the two pieces coming off the heat sink being to allow for the metal

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to be poured into one end and the gases to vent out of the other. And the mold

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had to be orientated in such a way that the bottom would be the most likely

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surface to have a smooth, flat finish.

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Although the fins ended up thicker than we'd have liked, when it comes to heat

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sinks, size matters, and we calculated a

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theoretical heat dissipation of over 200

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watts. So then we went ahead and printed

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our design using PLA plastic at 103%

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size to account for the shrinkage of the aluminum during cooling. We chose PLA

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because it's made from corn, so when it burns, it shouldn't poison us.

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To improve our odds of success, we needed castingrade aluminum. But buying

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that stuff new is pretty expensive.

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Fortunately, there's a large source of casting grade aluminum, the scrapyard.

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So, we headed there and picked out our victim, extracting the engine out of

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this 2002 Toyota Yurus. Back in the

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shop, we took apart the engine, cleaned off the dirt, and chopped it into pieces

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small enough to melt. We used foam then

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to extend our pouring and venting holes.

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Then we mixed up clay, sand, and water

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until it reached a consistency where it was pliable but able to hold its shape.

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This mixture called green sand was packed around the 3D print and then

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baked for a couple of minutes to partially melt the plastic and to harden

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the clay. This whole process is called

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lost PLA casting. We then placed the

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aluminum scraps that we had into a graphite crucible, which is basically a

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a large cup that can withstand really high temperatures, and set about melting

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the metal in a crude furnace that we made out of fire bricks. One of the best

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and worst things about aluminum is that when it's exposed to air, it almost

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immediately forms an aluminum oxide layer on the surface. This is good for

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preventing further corrosion, but it

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makes it very annoying for melting. So,

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it's important when casting then to remove the aluminum oxide layer that

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floats to the top called dross so that it doesn't contaminate the finished

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cast. With the dross removed, we were ready for our first pouring attempt.

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Though it should be noted we weren't sure how much of the PLA had actually

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melted on this one. Turns out

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not much. Clearly the aluminum barely

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made it into the mold and wasn't able to

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melt much of the plastic in the process. So to troubleshoot, then we made a

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different riser design out of foam so that the aluminum would be able to enter

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across the entire top of the mold. Green

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sand melt, purify, and pour again. And

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we ended up once more with a face only a

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mother could love. So, we moved on then from lost PLA

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casting to lost foam casting, which is an extremely popular and much easier way

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of creating molds. Due to the low melting point of foam, when the aluminum

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is poured in, it immediately melts it away and fills the space. In theory, our

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foam mold wasn't perfect by any means, but we were cautiously optimistic that

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it would work. So fire melt and pour

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again and we get to see what kind of a

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result we were going to get.

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Unfortunately, this wasn't a massive success either.

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Although the foam did melt away and we

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were able to create a good base layer

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and even where the mounting plate would be was fairly well done, we simply

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didn't have enough static pressure to force the molten metal up into the fin

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shapes. We could solve this by creating

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a much taller riser. But by this point,

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the time crunch had become real, and our engineering department realized that he

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needed to produce something usable or I

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might melt him down. So, he made a clay

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and fire brick sandwich and assembled a mold using a method that bears more

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using a method that bears more resemblance to grade one art class than

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to precision crafting.

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To ensure on this the final attempt that

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the metal would thoroughly melt, the furnace was remade and heated until the

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entire crucible was red hot. Upon

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pouring the aluminum into the mold, it started bubbling from the steam escaping

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from the clay, making the metal of the finished product more porous, a problem

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we hadn't had before when we were using green sand. So then with a bit of

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massaging from the reciprocating saw to make it fit on a motherboard,

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it was finally ready to mount.

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The processor chosen was an Intel Q6600,

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mainly because the old ASUS motherboard it was on was the only one where the

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heat sink didn't interfere with the VRM.

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And to help fill in the air pockets on the bottom of the heat sink, we added a

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more than generous dollop of thermal paste. Topping off the creation with a

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handful of zip ties.

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And this was actually the first time I

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laid eyes on what three of my staff had

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been doing all week.

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I don't know how anything could have been worse than what I was expecting,

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but this may have achieved it.

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I mean, the name of the series is

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sketchy heat sinks, and um

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I guess mission accomplished there. With

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all of that said, testing an IDA 64

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turned out better than expected. And sketchy heat sink number two was able to

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keep the CPU reasonably cool for a fairly long time. Although this is

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likely more to do with its large thermal mass than its ability to dissipate heat.

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Ambitious but rubbish. 10 out of 10 IGN.

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So yeah, in the end this turned out to be the no man's sky of heat sinks. Sure,

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we had high goals set and we believed with the resources we had, we could pull

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it off. But it took three times longer than originally planned and the end

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result performs poorly, looks bad, and has almost none of the features that we

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said it would have in the beginning.

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So then, all that's left to say is thanks in advance to the metalworking

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experts who by now have filled the comments with advice. We will bear it in

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mind for the next installment then of sketchy heat sinks.

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at freshbooks.com/te tips and enter tech tips in the how did

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you hear about us section. So, thanks for watching guys. If you

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dislike this video, hit the dislike button. But come on, where's your sense

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of fun? But if you liked it, hit the like button, get subscribed, maybe

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consider checking out where to buy the stuff we featured. I mean, what would that even be? like scrap aluminum at the

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link in the video description.
