welcome to a totally normal and standard pc build guide here on Linus tech tips
sponsored by Intel and featuring the core i7 9700k today we're going to get
started by wait wait what are you doing right now huh
wait what did my camera operator and i merge
i guess that's okay people enjoy watching all kinds of
content on the internet from a pov perspective
oh all right well let's get started then
as always when building a pc we need a safe clutter free anti-static
workstation with all the tools that we're going to need so we've got a
magnetic parts tray a knife a pair of side cutters needle
nose pliers thermal compound cable ties and of course as always
a standard multi-bit screwdriver first thing we're going to do is get ourselves
static safe so we're going to open up our power supply here
then we're going to flip the switch to the off position and plug it in that way
the chassis is grounded so whenever we move our feet we're going to go ahead
and touch that in order to dissipate any static that's built up on our bodies for
extra points use an anti-static strap like this one from ifixit just put the
alligator clamp on a metal part of your plugged in power supply and the other
end either on your wrist or as i prefer to do it on your ankle
this way is great because then this strap isn't getting in your
way while you're trying to build the next thing we're going to need is a motherboard so we'll start by clearing
some space on our esd safe work mat we've gone with the ASUS prime z390 p
because our goal is to build a high performance gaming system but without
wasting any money on unnecessary gimmicks so we're going to need our i o
shield for later we're going to need the motherboard
itself but not this baggy so we can go ahead and leave that behind
we're going to need these little screws for installing our SSD and finally we're
going to need a SATA cable which would be in the box if it was new but we've
used this motherboard before i always like using the motherboard box
as an additional test bench because it keeps it up off any debris that might be
on my work surface and if you don't have an anti-static work surface well it acts
as one of those for our CPU as i've mentioned before we've gone with the
core i7 9700k unlike the 9900k it
doesn't have hyper threading but for gaming given that it already has 8 cores
we're not really going to need this it boosts up to 4.9 gigahertz and because
it's a k series chip it's unlocked so we can do a little bit of overclocking
should we see fit let's go ahead and install it step one
is to push down the lever pull it out and then
the retention plate should move out of your way then we're going to see this
little golden triangle here we're going to line that up with the dot at the
corner of the socket on some motherboard manufacturers that'll actually also be a
triangle when we're putting it in it's really important to apply no force at all you
just kind of dropping it in in exactly the right spot i recommend giving it a
little wiggle to make sure that it's firmly in place
next we're going to drop this plate down making sure that it stays clear of this
little screw right here then we go ahead and lower the ARM
pull it out and put it under the retention mechanism
this plate should pop off on its own we're going to hold on to that putting it inside the box for our motherboard
because in the event that we need to return our motherboard to the manufacturer later we will need to send
it with this installed for our memory we've gone with a nice
low latency ddr4 3200 kit from g-skill
we went with 16 gigs of RAM in an 8 gig by 2 configuration this gives us dual
channel operation for better performance and gives us plenty of expansion for the
future so we could go up to 32 gigs with no problems
when you're lining up the memory make sure you carefully check the position of
the notch so you can see here that i need to flip this around in order for it
to fit in the slot correctly pull back the tabs remember this side
probably won't pull back on modern motherboards line it up
and then push firmly from both sides until you hear a click
on each end now it's time to install our m.2 SSD we're using a 512 gig 760p
series from Intel but the instructions would be the same regardless first
you're going to want to find the m.2 slot on your motherboard we've actually
got two here one right here one right here oh okay strictly speaking
there is a third one but you can see this one is quite short and it's
actually marked right there it's intended for a wi-fi card next we're
just gonna hold our SSD up to it and see that yep okay this is an 80 millimeter
model so that's where we're going to want to install our mounting post
remember that bag i showed you guys before this has two pieces in it one of
them is a male and female threaded mounting
post there we go let's have a look at that
so you can see it screws into the motherboard there and then has a screw into the top of it
there and the other is a little tiny screw for
securing the drive you're unlikely to end up using a lot of force when you
install your SSD so just hand tight on this is fine
as for the drive itself it installs just like laptop memory so you go up at an
angle push it into the slot and then just hold it down in place
while you're screwing it in something to watch out for here guys is that while most computer screws are size
2 phillips these are usually size 1 so you're
probably going to need to change your bit before you finish installing
so that's done but i do have a couple more notes about m.2 installation on our
board both of the slots were easily accessible but that's not always the
case some motherboards will have m.2 slots actually on the back of them this
is a space saving feature and in some cases even if they are on
the front they're going to be covered by a heat spreader or a shroud so you may
actually need to remove screws in order to find them those heat spreaders are
actually optional they don't tend to help the drive dissipate a ton more heat
than if they're just exposed and maybe have some incidental
airflow from the case but what they do do is they'll act as an absorber of heat
like a heat buffer if your drive only sees intensive use from time to time now
let's turn our attention to cooling we've gone with the Noctua nhu 12s for
its great balance of reliability performance cost
and of course silence but if you're not planning on
doing any overclocking you can of course save a buck by going with something a
little bit less expensive actually if you want to save a buck and
still get the same performance you could just get the non-black one but this is
the LTT edition so there was no way that we weren't going to go with that every
cooler's installation is going to vary slightly in the details but with this
video and of course the included documentation you shouldn't have any
trouble with it first up we're going to need our
backplate the orientation of this is pretty easy
to figure out once you know the guiding principles
just check for where the centered hole is
and align it like so
flip this back around whenever you handle your motherboard be careful to
handle it by the edges or metal components or plastic connectors that
way you're never actually touching the pcb and putting your greasy skin oils on
it next because every CPU socket has a
slightly different profile we're going to need these four spacers this ensures
that we don't have either too much or too little mounting pressure once our
cooler is installed the orientation we use to install our mounting bars is
going to determine which way our cooler ends up facing
so we can either install it with the fan blowing upward making use of the exhaust
at the top of our case or we can install it with the fan
blowing towards the back of our system where the i o is and make use of the
pre-installed fan at the rear of our case we're going for a front to back
airflow configuration so i'm going to prefer to put it this way
that means our mounting bars are going to go like this
please note the curved side goes out
regardless of which spacers or back plates you're using these four thumbnuts
are going to hold the mounting bars in place
we won't need most of the rest of these accessories but there are a couple of
things in the common parts bag that might come in handy
these little wire clips allow you to install a second fan on your cooler if
you'd like the low noise adapter caps the maximum rpn of the included fan if
you want an extremely quiet experience case patch and of course the thing we
were actually after thermal compound it's actually harder than you'd think to
apply too much thermal compound at least from a performance perspective you can
definitely make a mess so on a mainstream CPU like this one that has a
relatively small integrated heat spreader i'd recommend about yay much
and remember if you're not sure you can always install your cooler give it a
little smooshy smooshy and then take it off
that way you'll know if you have the right amount
as you can see we pretty much nailed that the entire ihs is covered
and there's no gooped out part along the edge of the CPU i guess we got ahead of
ourselves a little bit there though so to install the cooler you're gonna need to take the fan off because otherwise
there's no way to screw this in here so you just go ahead and pull these
clips back
and the fan should come off a little something like that
i recommend lining up one of the screws in exactly the right spot maybe give it
like a half turn three quarter turn so that
it's locked in place and then go ahead and line the other one up on the post
there you go once they're both caught don't crank one all the way down
and then start on the other one i usually like to go until i feel kind
of a bit of resistance
then go kind of past that point on the other side
and a little more over here
that's topped and all the way down over here
there we go once they both hit their stoppers you're gonna know that the
mounting pressure is correct nice little smooshy smooshy
then we can go ahead and install our fan so when you're putting on the fan
watch where the cable for the fan is coming off because you're going to want it to be somewhat close to wherever the
CPU fan connector is on your motherboard in our case it's this one right here and
this one's for an aio pump so we're going to go ahead and install it right a
little something like that we're going to try and install it evenly
there you go lining up the fan with the top of the
heatsink there and we just pull these back
onto the retention sort of notches on the cooler just like that
yep that looks even now we take our fan
you can tie it in a little knot so that it'll take up any extra slack that we
have run that under there
and see if we can see if we can hit that yep there it is
okay now we'll just tuck that away
so we don't have to look at it get in there
get in there yeah dirty thing
there that is nice and clean
looking good now you might not have noticed but as we've been going i've been putting away
all the extra accessories and packaging for the parts that we've finished up
with that's for a very good reason a it means that you don't have to clean up
all that stuff at the end and b it keeps our workspace nice and
tidy so we're less likely to knock something onto the floor and lose
it or make a mistake
we chose Corsair's 460x RGB because a it
looks kind of nice which is always great when you're making a video about
something and b it's got a pretty standard layout
compared to most modern cases side panels regardless of whether they're
tempered glass always go back in the box until we're
ready for them later that way you can avoid scratching them
so if we look in here we've got a bottom mounted power supply in this case with a
shroud standard atx layout
front intake here with filter and then we're exhausting out the top or the back
i think this case has been used before i'm not sure if these fans are normally
pre-installed up there but don't worry about it minor details we'll get it all
sorted out as i'm removing pre-installed screws
hold on i'm just going to throw this back in here
i always like to use the case foam in between the case panels so they don't
rub up against each other there we go you'll note that i'm taking all the
screws i'm removing from the case and putting them into my magnetic parts tray
if you don't trust yourself to remember where everything came from here's a nice
little pro tip right
panel see and they'll stay exactly where i put
them i tend to try to do some basic organization before i even start putting
anything into the case so here i'm just taking off the wire management clip that
was pre-installed on my front panel connections i can also scout the layout
of my board and make sure that anything that i can is already pre-run to where
it needs to go so usb 3 is either down here on the bottom edge or over here on
the right when i can get away with it i actually do prefer to use this one i find it not as ugly looking all right
for those who aren't familiar this is what the usb 3 connection looks like you
can see it's actually keyed on one side and then there's one blank pin that
corresponds to the key on the slot and of course the blank pin on the slot
right there now there are just two more things that
we can pre-run before we install the motherboard any integrated RGB so in
this case we've got a lighting controller that actually does
not just RGB but also speed control for our included fans as well as a hub for
it including a SATA power connector that's already close enough to our power
supply that's a perfectly good spot for it and of course our fans
now i did say before that we were going to reposition those so why don't we go
ahead and do that now strictly speaking there was nothing
wrong with our all exhaust configuration at the top in the back with a filtered
intake but we're going to be using a pretty power hungry graphics card here so being
able to put some fresh air across it is definitely going to be an advantage
especially when you consider that modern graphics cards do get better performance
when they have better cooling so i'm going to take one of my two fans run the
cables through the bottom here and i'm going to install it as an intake
fan here along the bottom that'll cool my hard drive as well as throw some
fresh air over to the power supply area as for my second one
i'm gonna go ahead and put that one right here and i'm gonna run my cables
through this hole right about here now we need to pop off the front panel
on a lot of cases this involves just grabbing the bottom of it and giving it
a sharp yank but on this one you've actually got to unscrew these
now we take off the magnetic filter
get our screws back we've got these slots rather than just holes so if we
wanted to make slight adjustments to their location we'd be able to do that
you might notice that your fan screws are a little harder to put in than other ones that's normal these are
self-tapping screws and what they're actually doing is they're kind of
shredding the plastic as they go through it let's throw our filter back on what i'm
doing right now with the fans is i'm kind of untangling the wires i'm making
it so that my RGB wires and my power wires aren't crossing each
other because the RGB ones are both going to go to the same place
down over here in the bottom right and power is actually going to come up
across here and over here
this is really important before you install your motherboard you're going to
want to scout out where the fan power connectors are on the board now i like
to see them along the bottom edge here or the right bottom edge here that makes
it particularly easy to install bottom or front fans unfortunately this board
being more of a value option has the fan connections right here
and then uh yeah there was one more it's labeled a i o pump but that's fine we
can still put a fan there so our rear fan we're actually going to plug into
this one and then our two front fans we're going to plug into these two unfortunately
that means our cable management's a little bit trickier because we don't want to just drag them all the way
across the board so we're going to go under the motherboard and then up over
here for a nice short little run that's why i'm running these guys right
over here while i'm trying anyway
get in there now it's time to install the motherboard to do that we're going
to need the i o shield first i always recommend checking these before
you put them in the case and making sure that the tabs on the back here are bent
up enough to allow the port through otherwise they can actually stick into
the port short them out and even fry them so we're gonna do a quick sanity
check make sure we've got it oriented correctly
yeah that all looks fine now we install it into the back of the
case by lining it up then pressing on each corner in turn
once it's in they shouldn't move around anymore at all the last thing we need to
check is whether the correct standoffs are installed in our case this one is
pretty good it's actually got the nine standard atx ones pre-installed
including one of these handy little nubbin ones that will hold the board in place for you while you're screwing in
the rest of them but that's not always the case sometimes you'll have just
these six other times it'll have matx standoffs pre-installed and that's the
most dangerous one because if you've got an extra standoff scratching along the
back of your board it can actually cut these traces destroying your motherboard
and you will not get warranty coverage for that to double check this we just pick up the
board handle it by the edges plastic connectors
back plates whatever else you can get a firm grip on i really like holding on to
the CPU cooler because assuming you've got one with a decent mounting mechanism
that's a really really secure handhold for it
as you lower in the board i like to have it at about a 10 to 15 degree angle as
i'm sliding it towards the back of the case that helps me avoid those tabs that
i mentioned before and also prevents us from scraping the back of the board
along any standoffs that might or might not be in the right spots
now we're going to use that little nubbin to hold it in place and look through every hole and make sure that we
can see exactly the number of standoffs that we're expecting to see
you can actually see here that our board doesn't need these three it's a little
bit slimmer than standard atx for bonus points we could remove these from the
case but because they're not actually touching the back of the board there's
no safety reason to do it so i'm just going to leave them now that we know that's all good i'm actually just going
to pop it out again and then i'm going to pre-wire up my top fans here that way
i can ensure that my runs are nice and tight and clean
there we go not bad right
let's go ahead and screw the board in motherboard screws and any additional
standoffs you might need are always included in the hardware that comes with your case we're going to be using these
632 thread button heads right here
and if you're not sure if you've got the right thing you can always just hand thread one in
and as long as it goes easily you'll know that you're not going to cross thread it
don't wrench too tight on these guys once you start to mute resistance
give it maybe another 16th of a turn
maybe an eighth of a turn that's it
and look at that it's in now i know what you guys are thinking
great now the motherboard's in we can put the graphics card
no no now actually on this motherboard uh the
graphics card would interfere with surprisingly few other things that we
need to plug in but still it does make our lives easier if we go
ahead and plug all the things that we can into our motherboard first so let's
do our usb 3 connector now these have very fragile pins so you want
to get it positioned just right
before applying pressure you should hear a small click
and we can go ahead and run the rest of that cable around behind whew nice don't try and bend this too
tight guys if you bend this off your board then it's dead you can go ahead
and run that rear fan power connector here you can
see i'm putting a three pin fan connector on a four pin header that's
fine just kind of aim to the right front panel audio looks just like a usb
connector except that instead of having a blanked out pin at the very end it's
uh second to the end so we're going to go ahead and you know find somewhere to
route that along here seems pretty good and then we want to bring that through
there we go right at the very
bottom right from the back
and then that's bottom left from the front because on most motherboards these days
that's where the header is for it so we just find the blanked out pin there
line it up and
bippity boppity there it is we actually don't have front usb 2 on
this case but if we did it would plug in in the same fashion right there one of
the pickiest parts of building a modern computer is of course the front panel
lights and switches now in a perfect world
i'd love to bring these up right underneath where the front panel header
is but unfortunately i'm stuck with either bringing it up through here
or bringing it through over here so i guess i'm gonna go this route
if you're stuck with exposed wires one of my favorite old tricks is to put them
in a little braid so i'm just gonna treat two of them as one
with that other way we can have a look at where everything goes lots of modern motherboards actually have them labeled
but there are a few general rules you can follow the positive pin tends to be
towards the left so here we can do our hard drive led which you can see is the
bottom left one first positive pin
the left next up is our power led on many cases
these will be separated into individual pins because some motherboards have them
right next to each other others have a gap this board actually has both options
you can either put them right next to each other here or have a gap there i
tend to just put them right above my hard drive led
now our reset switch goes on the bottom right next to our hard drive led this
one doesn't have a positive wire indicated that's because it doesn't
matter it's just going to short those two wires same with the power switch
which goes right above that now it's time to no i'm just kidding put
in the hard drive now there's about as many hard drive
mounting mechanisms as there are stars in the sky so
there's going to be some variation here but i can give you guys a few general
rules Corsair is using a sled based design here you can actually see there's
holes right here if you had a two and a half inch drive like a SATA SSD and then
they use a tool-less mechanism to screw into well not screw into just poke into
the holes on the side of the hard drive so you're either going to have some kind
of sled based system that screws into the bottom or the sides or
it toollessly does the aforementioned
now we go ahead and slide this in until it clicks
next we grab a SATA data cable so this
will be in your motherboard box you can see there's a locking mechanism on one
side and it's in like a little kind of l shape
that little point goes down on the drive
you can just check the keying and make sure it's correct on there
put it until it clicks we can go ahead and run this up here
and then over to the corresponding connector on our motherboard
another thing that varies wildly from one casemaker to another is the
installation method of these bottom shrouds
you can see here that i'm not going to be able to install my power supply
without removing it first so in this particular Corsair case
we're going to need to take out this here thumb screw that holds it in place
actually that one might need to go to give me a second here oh nope just the
one and this one can
slot out there we go
that gives us a good look at the filtered intake for our power supply as
well as the mounting holes here at the back since
we're done handling most of the esd sensitive components of our build
we can go ahead and just put that somewhere it doesn't really
matter and install our power supply now i'm going to go fan side down because
this case has lots of space on the underside to draw in fresh air
and you know i'm going to be a smart responsible computer owner and not put
it down on a carpet for some reason there are screws in the back of this
power supply that is not normal you will find the mounting screws in the power
supply box now as we're putting it in we can just
place it down push towards the motherboard
and then slide into the back of the case
you might notice at the back that there are going to be some extra mounting holes here that you're not using that's
normal that's in case you want to mount your power supply in the other
orientation personally i can't think of too many
reasons to do it that way in a case like this unless maybe you wanted to use your
power supply fan as an exhaust fan if you had a heat generating component down
like right here or something but generally speaking this is the way you
want to go your power supply cables are usually found inside a little baggie in the
power supply box here are the modular cables we're going to need for our build
starting with the 24 pin so called for its 24 pins at least on this side so the
split connector that's for the power supply end and this is going to go into
our motherboard see this little clip right here
that corresponds to that little clip on the side there
this does require a little bit of force so if you can i would recommend putting
a little bit of backwards pressure on the back of the motherboard
we're going to go ahead and run this through our cable management grommets
next up we've got our 8-pin eps connector you can tell the difference
between this one and an 8-pin pci express connector in a couple of ways
one is that if it splits apart it'll split into four and four instead of six
and two and the second way is that many pci
express connectors actually have the
gap between two of the pins bridged uh i think it's these ones here you can
tell there's still a little gap because it's a six plus two but
hey whatever there you go also sometimes they helpfully label it
CPU so this one goes
right about here again clips to hooks
until it clips into place i find the best way to cable manage this
one is
over above the motherboard or it'll then go down the back
until it reaches the power supply
for pci express the type of cables you want to use is going to depend on your
graphics card we're using an rtx 2080 that has an 8 pin and a 6 pin power
connector so unfortunately on our modular power
supply all of them are six plus twos so we're going to end up with an extra
couple of pins that we're going to have to tuck away somewhere but the good news
is that we can use a single cable to run up to it
so our graphics card is going to go in our top pci express slot that's the one
that is electrically 16x which means
we're going to go ahead and run this bad boy let's say
right around there that'll give us a nice straight shot
over to it now you can run it up through the basement we can have a look at that
later but i personally prefer this cable management so that way finally we're
going to need SATA power for both our hard drive as well as our integrated RGB
controller this one plugs into the drive with the little teardrop down just like
the data connector did once again though guys please do be
careful this is a fragile connector push it straight in there we go
and then the second one is actually going to plug into
right here our RGB hub
just like that with all of our cables installed we can
turn our attention to routing them optimally so what i've done here is i've
found the RGB connector for my top fan
so that's going to go into RGB controller slot number two
just like that then my bottom fan
i'm going to use slot 1. that way if i want to apply any effects in iq or
whatever the case may be i'll be able to go from one to two to
three that's my three RGB fans that i've got installed
i'm going to take my power connector for this i'm just going to tuck it back here making sure that i've still got enough
space there we go that my side panel is going
to fit on make sure i don't put any pressure on that SATA data connector it's always
important to watch out where you wrote your 24 pin connector this is the
biggest python of a cable in a typical computer so if you just run it here you
can see you're not going to be able to close the side panel
so what we want to do is run it kind of down and across spots where we have a
quite enough gap we can store any excess down in the
basement since conveniently our case has a nice covered basement we can run our
graphics cable down there as well let's try not to cross our cables here
that way they'll lay down flatter
and then now put that back there we can go ahead and
tie some of these down it's fairly typical to find disposable cable ties
like these in the packaging for your power supply or your case or both but if
you want to bind together a bigger bundle i would recommend getting some of
these velcro ties we actually have our own available lttstore.com i always love
it when cases include these nice little loops for wire management
costs basically nothing to implement and is a huge
extra convenience when you're trying to build on them
the key to a decent but not too time consuming cable management job is just
making sure that none of your wires are crossing over each other
all right well that looks serviceable to me so now we're going to go ahead and
finish up with the connections on the other end of our power supply i find it
easiest in these cases to work from the back towards the front so that's our
six plus two pin for the graphics card here's our
eight pin for the CPU one nice thing about a modular power
supply guys is that you can pre-install these on the power supply if you find it
difficult to get at them after the fact we can go ahead and do our 24 pin now
remove that SATA connector out of the way
finally we've got our little six pin for SATA that goes here or really any of
these spots on this end of things pretty much if it fits then it sits
we'll start by taking out the two pci slot covers that are just below the 16x
slot that we're going to use to install our graphics card
so you can see what i mean by below here right so not this one these two
most modern graphics cards have a double wide back plate this
accommodates additional i o and also just the thicker coolers that they
generally need now it's not strictly speaking necessary
but we can prepare the slot by moving that tab back and then we're going to
hold our card on both ends because we're going to want to apply even pressure as
we're pushing it down into the case i find it easiest to line up the i o
first and you can always double check that by looking down this side you know
you want to make sure a couple little things like these tabs aren't sticking
through here because then they won't go in little things like that and if all
that looks reasonably well aligned and you flip back around to this side
look through these gaps if you can see the holes it's probably in the right
spot and then finally check to make sure that that back tab on the card there is
seated correctly all looks good to me
and that's it if this locks back into place which it
seems that it has then your card is installed let's go
ahead and put the screws in
something to watch out for here guys is some cases
don't accommodate screwdrivers very well you can see mine doesn't fit here do
yourself a favor start it with your thumbs and then finish it off with the
screwdriver that way you can make sure that you don't accidentally cross thread it
now we'll go ahead and throw in our pci express connectors you can see these six
plus twos can be a little bit tricky they've got a little kind of
block there that makes it so that if you put that
under right there you can push the whole thing in and the two pins won't
accidentally slip out so we'll go ahead and these are not super flexible some power
supplies improve their efficiency in sort of a
i don't know you could call it a bit of a hacky way by putting capacitors in the
cables you can see this is one that does that
that tends to make the cables a little bit less flexible get a nice little
orange accent on there ltdstar.com
oh one more thing guys a GPU sag is an
issue where the kind of back end of the graphics card can tend to
sag down because it's only really anchored at this side and then through
the slot and that's one of the reasons that i like putting my pci express
cables over here up through the top because the stiffness of these cables
and if you cable manage them nice and tight they can give it a little bit of support and keep it from kind of
you know looking like it's falling out let's go ahead and throw our basement
shroud back in place this one's just held in place by clips so we're just
going to line those up and slide towards the back
looking good and then the second one
is a combination of clips and then that screw
and now we are shockingly close to being ready for testing we can go ahead and
put our filter back on the top of the case
we can grab our front panel and reinstall that
and we are pretty much ready to test it out so we'll go ahead and plug in a
network cable keyboard and mouse
displayport to our monitor there we go any one of these is fine
then finally your power supply power cable goes in don't forget to flip this
to the on position guys otherwise you might go to press the button for the
moment of truth and uh
nothing will happen it's not a bad looking little system
to do it over again i'd probably move that rear fan to the front it's a little
unbalanced looking but from a cooling perspective this
configuration is perfectly fine so i'm just mashing
delete here to get into the UEFI BIOS
and look at that everything looks normal 9700k all 16
gigs of RAM are showing it's not running at full speed though so
we're going to press f7 to go into advanced mode go into ai tweaker and
what the hey let's see if our xmp profile manages to
do a thing here oh that's interesting i don't think
that's the kit of memory i had intended to use i thought it was a
3200 cl-14 kit
do i have two mismatched sticks in here
oops these are not matching sticks one moment please
no all right
that's better
throw our Windows install usb in here so then now that everything looks correct
in here we're just going to go over to boot
use boot override to boot to our usb
stick that we've preloaded with Windows 10
and press enter then we basically just follow the
prompts now that Windows is all installed we're going to get ASUS's q
installer thing that shows up we don't want any of these utilities
probably and we're going to go ahead and install the
drivers while we wait for that we can head over to NVIDIA.com
go to the GeForce driver section select rtx 20 series
this doesn't really matter but whatever there you go and then we're going to
select the dch drivers now that all of our ASUS drivers are
done and we've rebooted we can go ahead and install the NVIDIA drivers that we
downloaded earlier while you're installing drivers is
actually a great time to pop into the task manager and see if your CPU is
turboing correctly because it tends to be a one or two threaded application
so we were turboing up to around 4.6 4.7
4.8 gigahertz that's about what we'd expect
now that we've got all our drivers installed though we can make sure that the system is
performing as we would expect so i'm going to go ahead and fire up cinebench
r20 this isn't the be-all and end-all of benchmarks but what it will do is tell
us what our CPU is turboing to and if our performance is within the range that
we'd expect for the CPU model we have all eight threads are clearly running
CPU usage is at 100 and we are turboing to a nice healthy 4.57 gigahertz
our fans did kick up a little bit but everything's well within reason if they
were louder than we'd like what we could do is install ASUS fan control software
and set a custom curve on it though you can see we exceeded our short term boost
limit so we're sitting at around 4.25 gigahertz
still pretty healthy i also want to know if my graphics card is behaving normally
so let's just do some fur mark
okay so obviously that wasn't a full computer
burn-in suite or anything but what we know now is at least
no artifacts or anything yep it's probably good enough that we can at
least close up the side panels
all right
now all that's left is years and years of gaming and check this out guys we are
getting in excess of 250
frames per second in cs go with everything basically cranked
man that is some good realism right there
it's so realistic i can't look
oh ow
that was weird wait was that whole thing just a dream
it couldn't have been because here's the computer we built
thanks for watching guys hope you enjoyed our pov pc build guide massive
shout out to Intel for sponsoring this video and of course our other hardware
partners for providing all their parts so you got Corsair g-skill ASUS and i
guess we had a seagate hard drive in there as well guys make sure you are
subscribed and if you haven't already
maybe check out one of our previous build guides where maybe you don't get
the pov experience but you definitely get a bit of a more macro look at some
of the finer details we're gonna have one of those linked below for you thanks
to Intel once again for sponsoring this video Intel actually has an excellent
step-by-step guide with pre-built checklists and tips on how to build your
first gaming pc and we're going to have that linked in the video description