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It's awesome. So cool. We can tell

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exactly where they go. One of the coolest things about my new house is the

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heating system. It takes hot water from this boiler and pumps it through the

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floors using this bank of valves to

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decide which rooms are going to get heating at any given time. And compared

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to a traditional forced air system, a hydronulic one like this is more

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efficient and it's completely silent. But the cooling is another matter

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altogether. This puppy right here, who I nicknamed Bryant, is groy as heck, 25

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years old, and uses only a single temperature probe on the inside of the

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house to determine whether he turns on or not. That means whoever's hanging out

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in this north facing bedroom right next to the thermostat is having a pretty

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good time. Well, the people sitting in the living room are going to need the

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fire to warm up. Meanwhile, down in the land center with all these computers,

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Now, I could solve these problems by paying someone to come and install an

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expensive multiszone air conditioning system, but this is line tech tips. So,

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instead, I'm going to be using a Raspberry Pi and a handful of these

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super cool electronically controlled dampers that you can get online for like

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150 bucks. That's right, fraction of the cost and it's going to be way better.

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Probably not.

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Before we can determine where to install our cheap AC zone controls, we need to

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know where the in flooror heating zones are. Because the last thing in the world

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we want is for the AC to be fighting

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against the heat with both of them running at the same time because the

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freaking zones don't line up. So, we're starting here in the master bathroom

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where the plan is actually to eliminate one of the in flooror heating zones. You

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can see we've actually got easy access to show you guys how these in flooror

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radiant heating tubes are coiled around the room so that your toes are nice and

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toasty. It's actually apparently pretty common to have a separate in flooror

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heating zone for the master bathroom because it's pretty typical for the

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flooring type to be different in the bathroom compared to in the bedroom. But

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Ivon and I are going to be putting the same type of flooring in these rooms. So, there's a couple of good reasons to

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consolidate. Number one is that the thermostat for the bathroom sits right

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here next to the duct for the AC. So, it would be easy for that thermostat over

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on the other wall to be calling for cool, while this one is getting blasted

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with cold air calling for heat. Number two is that implementing these AC zones

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is inherently more expensive and complicated than implementing these

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heating zones now that the tubes are already on the floor. So, we're saving

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ourselves some complicatedness there.

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Fortunately, the builders did a great job of labeling everything so I know

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exactly where all of these cooling loops run. That means we can focus our

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attention on how to turn that basic single zone AC into a multiszone one.

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And for that, we will be using this or

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something like it. This is a Honeywell Truezone damper. And what it does is

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it's basically just a piece of ducting that allows air to flow or Da da da does

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not depending on whether the room is calling for cool or not. To do that, it

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uses this 24volt AC actuator, which is

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designed to be used with Honeywell's own system, but we found that it works just

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fine with anything you want. I love how the readout is just mechanical. So,

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that's how we're going to do the main floor and the upstairs. But for the

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basement, we've got both more possibilities and some more challenges.

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The original owners didn't finish the entire basement. So, they only put two

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zones down here. One for the bathroom and the wreck room, which is where we're

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standing. These were the finished parts. And the wall actually ended right here.

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And a second zone for everything else.

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But I'm going to show you something cool. Okay, let's go quick before it

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fires. Right here on the floor. Oh,

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there it goes. Just kicked in. Uh right here on the floor, we've got six loops

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for that other zone. And there are actually labels on these, but they are

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completely illeible and mean nothing to

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me. So, what we're going to do is we're going to whip out the thermal camera and

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we're going to do a trace with the hot water that's circulating through the

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floor to figure out whether we can segment out, say, the LAN room and the

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theater room, for example, which are rooms that could have very different

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cooling requirements. Yeah, it's going to take a while to heat up that water.

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We might want to get some lunch. You guys might have noticed a wild Jake

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appearing in the background of the video today. He's here to show us how this is

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going to work. hit me. I told you. Oh, I I I just showed

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up. I didn't know I had to do stuff. So, once we actually get to the final

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install when Lionus has his server rack going and his home server, we'll just

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run Home Assistant in a Docker container on his Unrated server. But for now,

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Raspi is our standin. But Home Assistant doesn't work by magic. So, first things

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first, we need to figure out how to close the damper. And the answer is this

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24volt power supply. Wow. Wasn't that convenient. For our demonstration, I

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will be the lovely assistant plugging the AC power supply into the wall. Oh,

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did you already plug it in? Yeah, it's plugged in. Oh, we're live wires here. You want to see some sparks? No, no, no,

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no, no, no. Not necessary. Sparks.

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Okay. There's like kind of gas. Can you unplug that, actually? Yes. Now, when I

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went in and actually picked this thing up, we were going in totally blind. I

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actually had no idea if this was just going to work. This could have been some weird proprietary crap that Honeywell

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requires you to like wire up in a certain way with a special power supply,

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but fortunately it's just 24volt AC. So,

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we plug it in and we plug it

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in. And you plug it in. Time for the big test. Put your hand in there. I'm not

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putting my hand in there. Okay. You ready? I'm ready. Oh, it's moving, isn't

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it? Oh, yeah. Nice. I think the closing time on this

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thing is 30 seconds. Okay. But that makes sense. You don't want to have like

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a sudden shock to the system. It like flips closed and there's all this back

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pressure. Yeah. Just like when you shut your hose really fast. You might hear a th which is called water hammer. So I

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guess this would be like air hammer. Air hammer. Of course. Um we have to be able

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to I can't just stand here and go like this to control the AC in my house.

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Surely we can do better than that. Well, I mean we could we could hire a few

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Linuses. And that's where this guy comes in. Now what we're going to use in the

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final install is not necessarily going to look like this. It's going to have a lot more channels, but this is what we

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had laying around, and it's going to be perfect for our demo here. This is what's known as a smart relay board.

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Basically, each one of these is kind of like a light switch. Rather than having

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a human or a Linus in this instance actuate it, it has a Wi-Fi connection

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that can actually actuate it instead, just like clicking these buttons would.

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And the nice part is we can integrate this directly into Home Assistant. So,

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Home Assistant can go, I want to open that damper. Click that button. Power

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goes through, opens that damper. It's been about 20 minutes. It's time.

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It's awesome. This is freaking awesome. So

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cool. We can tell exactly where they go.

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Oh my god. This is amazing. It's almost like it was made for this purpose. I

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love it. So, there it is. We've got four lines into the theater room. Two of them

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carrying hot water in, two of them carrying cool water out. So, you can see

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there's this clear line dividing the theater room lines from

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Go. Oh, here we go. It goes out here. So, this room has four as well,

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then. One, two, three, four. Oh, shoot.

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I got prematurely. I think my hopes are dashed. Yeah, it's I think it's four

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lines. I don't know what's going on. I think they really did just kind of yolo

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it. The bad news is that the zones overlap a fair bit. Yeah. The good news

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is that it seems like for the theater room at least, there's one coil that

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does most of the heating. So, if you look here, this boy comes in and

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actually crosses over one of the other tubes at the end there. You see that?

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So, it comes in, it comes down here and

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is actually predominantly for this room that we're standing in.

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Meanwhile, this uh other one here, this

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guy right here, goes all the way along

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the whole floor. So, it's only that one edge of the room that would get any

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heating from this room's zone. So, we

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could probably get away with it. Yeah, cuz it wouldn't heat that room very

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much. And the main coil negligible

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enough. And plus, it would shut off once this room is heated. So, Exactly. I

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think it's okay. Yeah. So now you just have to give this to the plumbing guys

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and see if they can figure it out. Yeah. Yeah. Nice. Good luck plumbing guys. Did

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we show the wiring for this? No, we didn't. Okay. So, very simple. Same

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24volt power supply or well transformer really cuz it's AC to AC. And then we're

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going into the actuator here. The only difference is that we've got our little

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Wi-Fi relay in line. You guys might actually remember this thing from when I

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smartified my garage door. So, super straightforward. Uh Jake through Home

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Assistant. Press the button. Beautiful. You can see it activates here. The

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damper opens. Freaking awesome. Except

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these things honestly aren't that great. I ended up bricking mine because it

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turns out there is no hardware way to factory reset it. You have to tell it

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through software to factory reset, which is the stupidest thing ever because if

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you change your Wi-Fi, blah blah blah. The point is it's bricked. These things

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suck. So, we're going to be using a bigger one that runs Tasota firmware,

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which is way better. So, the reason we have this set up to close by default

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when this is off, it's just so when we're like programming it in Home Assistant, it makes a little more sense

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for that relay to be on when it is doing

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air and off when it is closed. So, it's

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off, it's closing. Mhm. It's just like a brain logic thing. Yeah. Because

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regardless, when this is closed, it uses power. So, whatever. Uh, of course, it's

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still a human pressing buttons. We're getting to that now. Well, the most

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obvious substitute for a human finger would be a thermostat, but we've got a

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couple of problems. First and foremost, having 10 thermostats control the same

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AC doesn't really work. And on top of that, how is that going to control a

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damper? I mean, look at it. This is some ancient technology. It's It's kind of

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beautiful. There's only two wires going to this thing which go to a 24volt power

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supply back in the mechanical room that controls the valve for that particular

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heating zone. So what that means is basically this physical ass freaking

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mercury either tips and completes the

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24vt circuit opening the valve or it

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doesn't touch the metal contact and the valve closes. That's it. Most smart

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thermostats, actually a lot of them don't even work on three wire, let alone

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on two wire. Screwdriver is not for sale in the store yet. So, uh, buy a shirt,

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ltstore.com. Oh, that's

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awesome. Thankfully, you guys were full of lots of good ideas in the comments on

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my last video about the new house. There were some really awful ideas as well,

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terrible ones, but there were some good ones. One way we could tackle this is

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running more conductors, but unfortunately that would require ripping

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up not just walls, but in some cases even flooring of the house in order to

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do that. That is not happening. There's 10 of these. Yeah. But there were some

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other ideas as well. One was to just run temperature sensors in the rooms and

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then have everything controlled via Home Assistant. The problem with that idea

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was that the wife and the kids want a bit more of a userfriendly way of

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interfacing with the heat and cooling controls in each room. One suggestion we

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got a bunch of times was to use a thermostat from someone like Techar that

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just uses these for power and then communicates wirelessly back to what is

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kind of the the real thermostat back in the mechanical room that has multiple

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wires for heating, fan, and AC. The

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problem with that is then I'm buying into someone's like stupid proprietary

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thing and I'm adding a bunch more complexity that honestly isn't

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necessary. Thank you for the suggestion though. That was not one of the stupid

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suggestions. And the solution? Well, turns out it's a smart thermostat.

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Anyways, what we actually ended up with is an EcoB3 light. And this was almost

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totally by accident. We have these installed at the office. And I was just

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kind of checking it for reference. Turns out these guys are HomeKit enabled,

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which means we can have direct connection to them. No cloud necessary, which was one of your prerexs. That was

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a big thing for me. I don't want to wait for a relay. And if some stupid cloud

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service is down, I don't want to not be able to control or have no AC at all.

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Right. So, you plug this guy in. It's basically just got the two wires for power, which right now is hooked up to

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this guy, but in the future will be directly wired through this existing

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wiring. Plug it in. Turns right on. Now, the really nice

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thing about these Eco Bees is notice we only have two wires connected. But in

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here, it thinks it has six. We can just lie to it. You can literally go in and

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tell it that wire is connected, that wire is connected, that one's connected, that one's connected. So, this thing

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thinks it's directly connected to an AC, directly connected to a fan, and

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directly connected to a boiler, but it's not at all. This way, we get the full

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brain sort of smart sensing, smart runup, smart rundown of this thermostat,

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and then we just take what it wants to do. Like, say it's too hot in here, I

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want to cool off. It's going to turn into cooling mode and then we can read

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that in Home Assistant. Home Assistant's like, "Whoa, this thing's in cooling

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mode now. Let me turn on the AC and open that valve." Before we can do the big

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demo, we need to do a couple of things. Starting with hooking up, well, some of

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the multiple aspects of the heating and cooling system. So, you can see we've

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got our AC zone one. That's our damper. We've got our heat zone one. So, that's

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going to hook up to the valve on the boiler. We've got our

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AC power. That's going to tell it to turn on the compressor. And then, of

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course, we've got our fan power, which is going to tell the air conditioner to

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blow cool air around the house. So, right now, for the purposes of our demo,

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we've just got AC and fan. Then, in Home Assistant, Jake has been setting up

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automations, which are effectively scripts that allow all of these elements

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to interact with each other. Because the last thing you want is to kick on your

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fan and your compressor, but then have your damper closed because then you're

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going to create a bunch of back pressure potentially blowing up your air conditioner. So, what we've done is

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we've made sure that as long as one AC

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zone is calling for an open damper, the AC power and the fan will go on. And if

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all of these are closed, these will turn off. So, this is it then. Exactly how we

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want this to work with the thermostat on the wall. Someone could set a

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temperature hold and then okay at 11:30

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when the normal rules take over, normal scheduling, everything's just totally

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transparent to the user. We end it

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and our AC should kick on. Look at

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that. The fan goes, the damper opens cuz

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remember on is off for the damper, right? So it's open and we're blowing.

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And then if I say, "Okay, look. I really don't need that much cooling cuz I'm a I'm a hot

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boy. Look at that. It's freaking

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awesome. Look at it go." The application

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for stuff like this is really exciting and basically endless. With just simple

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sensors that could be wallpowered or even battery powered, you could do

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almost anything. You could sit down in your computer chair and have a

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batterypowered pressure sensor that turns on a freaking desk fan. Uh, the

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way that I plan to use this is really to amp up the efficiency in this place. So,

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every wall light switch is going to have a motion sensor in it, which means that

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I'm going to have occupancy awareness.

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So, the AC will never turn on in a room that hasn't had anyone in it for the

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last, let's say, 30 or 60 minutes or something like that. It'll pretty much

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pay for itself. It'll just take a few years. It's really exciting. Almost as

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privacy.com/Linus. That's

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privacy.com/lininus. If you guys enjoyed this video, but you have no idea what

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the heck was going on, maybe check out part one where I kind of show you guys

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around the new house and talk about this and some of the other challenges that

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we're going to be trying to solve over the next few months.