um
okay secrets out we know
that the vast majority of the people watching our build guides
are not at home surrounded by piles of
new computer parts screwdriver in hand
following along step by step assembling the exact machine that we're building on
screen no most of you are just here for
well hardware porn and that's okay it's nothing to be
ashamed of and today is all about giving
the people what they want a workstation
slash gaming build so high-end that few people will ever have
a genuine use for it let alone enough spare cash to justify buying it this is
the drink spitter i mean Threadripper
all right you guys know the drill
just kidding we won't need one of those but what we will need is a clean
workstation an esd strap a screwdriver
a magnetic parts tray a pair of side cutters
and i like to have a pair of pliers on hand just in case you gotta you know
tighten your nuts i also recommend testing the system on
top of the motherboard box to make sure that it works before you begin the final
assembly all AMD threadripper cpus have a lot in
common tons of cash up to 40 megs and 64 pci
express lanes so it mostly came down to picking how many
cores we wanted well we wanted all of them so we chose the
1950x16 core 32 thread processor now i could lie
and say i'm going to use it to live stream myself playing games while
encoding 4k video in the background but we all know it's just for facebook and
streaming web video on the subject of which let's insert the processor now
normally i just copy paste these instructions from another build guide
using a similar socket but this time our
big new chip has a big new socket AMD's
tr4 and it's a little different to start
we'll use the fancy Threadripper branded size 20 torx screwdriver that
actually comes in the CPU box
loosen the screws labeled three two one
in that order until the load plate lifts
itself up next lift the rail frame by gently
pulling on these blue handles and then slide out the external cap sled
we're going to replace it with our Threadripper CPU and its carrier frame
carefully slide the carrier frame into the rail frame making sure it slides all
the way to the end of the rails and remove the pnp cap that's been
protecting the socket's 4094 pins
now gently close the carrier frame so that the CPU makes contact with the pins
pushing down on the blue handles to fix the carrier frame in place
then close the load plate and fasten screws one two and three
in that order with a recommended torque value of 12 pounds per inch of force
finally take a moment to bask in the glory of the cow tipper the thread
ripper AMD's threadripper cpus support up to
one terabyte of wait a minute actually
yes one terabyte of RAM if you populate all
eight dimm slots with 128 gig lr or load reduced dimms
those aren't even out yet they'll be super expensive and
would be total overkill so we're using eight
16 gig sticks of trident z RGB RAM from
g skill because you know we didn't want to be overkill
and 128 gigs seemed pretty reasonable
obviously though you could go with 64 or
32 to save a buck
to install your dimms pull back the tabs on the memory slots
align each module according to the key in the socket and press firmly on both
sides until the latch closes if you're using just four sticks then
use the lighter grey slots for other configurations refer to your
motherboard's user guide you'll probably notice that there's one more slightly
different looking slot that's been left unoccupied leave this one alone for now
but get excited because we will be coming back to it later we're basically
using the pant splitter i mean Threadripper of cases it's cooler
masters latest addition to their hallowed cosmo series the c700p
it's got many of the characteristics that these cases have become known for
like the suicide doors and the aluminum skids to make hauling its 49 pound heft
around just a little easier and
it is 2017 after all it's got integrated
RGB lighting and a curved tempered glass
side panel now as cool as these doors are we start by taking them off simply
open them and while gripping near the hinge pull upward stash the panels
particularly the glass one back in the box they came from
this is also a good time to give ourselves more room to work by taking
out these screws
and sliding the internal panels free we're going to replace the case's
included fans with cooler master master fan pro 140s placing three in the front
for intake and one for exhaust at the back remove the case's front covers by
tilting and then pulling up on layer one
and then simply pushing out layer two
then it's just a matter of screwing the fans onto the 140 millimeter rails with
the fan leads pointing towards the motherboard tray
next pull to remove the case's magnetic rear fairing so you can access the fan
screws here and mount your new RGB fan with the
sticker towards the back next check this out one of these SSD
sleds is actually an integrated fan hub
in disguise and this is where all of our
fan leads will go as for the RGB leads we'll connect those
to the RGB hub that came with the fans
it's magnetic so we can just stick at any old place and leave the internal usb
connector dangling for now our motherboard choice the ASUS rog
zenith extreme is full of badass features like 802.11 ad wi-fi and their
live dash OLED screen for measuring vitals
it also has what's called dim.2 a riser
that adds space for two more m.2 slots
and a 10 gigabit pci express network card
which is actually a pretty good value if you wanted one anyway
if you don't care about that stuff you can still totally follow this guide and
save about two hundred dollars with the ASUS prime x399a
so our i o shield is pre-attached that's
cool meaning that we can jump right to installing the standoffs that came with
the case in all of the points labeled a
for eatx
set the board in place over the middle standoff post then use these screws to
fasten the board to the rest
you can plug in the two 8 pin CPU power connectors now to do your future self a
solid and since we still have easy access to the motherboard we'll also
show you guys how to plug in the rest of the annoying tiny things
the front panel connectors for the power led hard drive led reset switch and
power switch the fancy front usb 3.1 gen2 connector
here and the usb 3.1 gen 1
case RGB and system audio along the
bottom so to keep our rig chilling out maxin relaxin all cool we're going to be
using the cooler master master liquid 240 all-in-one liquid cooler
high-end cooling is basically a
requirement if you are overclocking threadripper
this one comes with a lot of hardware for all the different sockets it
supports but we'll be using the socket tr4 mount which at the time of filming
is sold separately and available only from cooler master's website
now normally this is the part of the build where i freak out and realize that
i've installed my motherboard without first mounting the cooler bracket on the
back but today i don't have to worry about that because the tr4 socket is
sturdy af and the pump actually mounts directly to
it like a little baby monkey start by fastening your fans we're using RGB ones
to match the rest of the case with the stickers against the radiator using
these long screws letting the fan leads hang towards the motherboard tray
next mount the radiator to the top of the case by popping off the case's dust
filter and fastening the rad to the mounting rails using these eight screws
connect the fan headers to the included y adapter and plug the other end into
the CPU fan header here we'll connect the RGB leads to the
included hub like we did earlier but
right now we've actually got a problem we have two RGB hubs each requiring a
usb 2.0 header and our motherboard only
has one such header you know what
that's it you guys i'm done if i can't have all my RGB
working i'm leaving just have dinner sent to my trailer
oh okay so apparently this is a pretty simple
problem to solve what's 25 bucks for one of these
internal usb hubs on a 7 000
build so we're going to mount it here
connect up all the usb cables then wire
up its molex power cable now it's time to mount the block to the
CPU we'll start by peeling off this warning
label and placing two rice grain sized
dabs of the included thermal compound on the center of the CPU
now arrange the two tr4 mounting brackets like this
and start tightening them down if you think it looks weird that the
cooler doesn't cover the entire chip don't worry on threadripper the CPU dies
the parts that actually produce heat are in the center anyway
so all that's left is plugging in the pump header way down here
and then using this handy extension cable to route it behind the motherboard
tray using a power supply calculator might
suggest that a 600 watt psu would be
sufficient so naturally we went with
a power supply that cooler master says will be completely silent up to 600
watts and is capable of double that with
efficiency in excess of 80 plus titanium
now we're not here to mislead you the masterbot maker 1200 mij with its all
made in japan components and 10 year warranty not to mention
thousand dollar price tag was a because
we can move and the v750 at a tenth of
the price will do you just fine for this build just make sure that whatever power
supply you go with you grab something with two 8-pin eps connectors
threadripper can run with a single connector but you'll be losing the
ability to overclock and risking instability as well as issues with
higher end memory start by connecting all the cables to the power supply while
it's still accessible you'll need the 24 pin connector to power the motherboard
two six plus two pin pci express connectors for the graphics card two
SATA chains one molex cable and the two
eight pin CPU cables that you managed earlier unfortunately the cables that
came with this power supply aren't sleeved and cablemod doesn't make a kit
for it but they do make cable extenders so we'll connect these to the ends of
our cables hiding the excess slack in the basement next
gently flex the power supply cover so you can finagle it on to the little
pedestal in the basement or you could just take off these four screws and not
be lazy place it fan side down install
the four screws in the back like so then
wipe a tear from your eye when you realize that
no one's ever gonna see your baller power supply now we could put normal
storage in here a single m.2 drive would be blazing fast on its own but
before the end of this year AMD is planning to release a driver update that
will enable bootable NVMe raid on x-399
so how could we not be
f-word future-proof with a view of Corsair's high-speed mp500 ssds we begin
by removing the m.2 heat spreader by unscrewing these three fasteners being
careful not to slip and scratch this nice plate here next we'll grab the
small baggie from the motherboard box that contains the m.2 standoff and cap
and install the standoff in the nut that matches the length of our m.2 drive this
one happens to be an 80 millimeter stick so we're using the nut marked 2280 all
that's left then is to insert the SSD at an angle press it down fasten it on the
opposite end and replace the fancy heat spreader and you're done
where are you we're going to use that same mounting
procedure as before except this time instead of going directly on the board
our two additional ssds will go on this
nifty little add-in card one on each side
we then slot the card into our last remaining dim slot such that this little
gap hops over the dim.2 signpost press
firmly until the open tab closes itself hey voila
over a terabyte of wicked fast storage now you might
wonder at this point why our build doesn't contain a hard drive we clearly
have the budget for it and that last bit is exactly why we figure anyone spending
this kind of money on their workstation especially one with 10 gig networking
should probably just have a separate storage box elsewhere on their network
for our graphics card we considered a quadro but from our recent findings
they're not actually better in many applications
than consumer cards so if your use case
specifically benefits from quadro go with that but we chose the gtx 1080 ti
amp extreme edition from zotac remove these three pci slot covers two
of them are for the graphics card and one is actually for our 10 gigabit
network card remove the protective cover from the
card edge and align the card carefully with the motherboard's PCIe slot and the
openings at the back of the case push the card in firmly until the slot
tab snaps shut then put the case screws
back in finally plug in the two eight pin pci
express power connectors that we attached to the power supply earlier now
this technically isn't a graphics card but you can throw your network card in
at this point too this slot's a good choice but thanks to threadripper's 64
pci express lanes you really don't have to think about it too much just uh throw
it in there and put the screw in
our case is deep covered basement and the wide gap between the motherboard
tray and the door make cable management a piece of cake especially if you're not
the perfectionist type since most of the mess not including our RGB hub spaghetti
monster will be hidden behind the internal panels that we removed earlier
so once we replace all the doors she ain't looking too shabby
for peripherals we're using cooler masters master keys pro l RGB keyboard
their master mouse pro l mouse and a swift rx xl mouse pad now
let's put it all together now i promise we're getting to the
sizzle reel soon but first a couple quick tweaks in the BIOS we're going to
configure our RAM by going to the extreme tweaker tab and changing the ai
overclock tuner from auto to docp
then we're going to do a basic overclock
using the easy tuning wizard in our case we got an easy eight percent performance
boost now this is also a good time to
configure your m.2 raid unfortunately we
can't show you this now because the feature won't be supported for a couple
more weeks meaning that we save and
we're done now we've covered installing your operating system pretty thoroughly
on the path so just check out this guide on the forum that we'll have linked
below as for drivers your motherboard actually comes with a flash drive with
the latest ones for audio uh your network card your chipset etc meaning
you just gotta go over to NVIDIA.com and get the latest for your graphics card
leaving us with nothing left to do but
admire our creation is it a great value
well in its current state it's the most expensive build we've ever done but
with some tweaks that wouldn't affect performance noticeably for most people
compared to what you'd have spent for a 16 core bed i mean
thread ripping pc even a year ago it actually ends up looking pretty
compelling so long live competition in the CPU
industry and long live cooler master for sponsoring this build guide
time for the sexy glam now
oh
at least i saw