WEBVTT

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the original Last guide you'll ever need will stay up but there's some new stuff

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that we need to talk about to keep it up to date welcome to the 2024 edition of

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our exhaustive PC build guide where we won't specifically be recommending

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anyone's products but rather we'll be equipping you with the tools you need to

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configure buy and build the right machine for you the model numbers and

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the small details have changed hence the update but the process has not so

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without further Ado let's give a quick shout out to our sponsor seic seic makes

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solid power supplies they're built to last they're quiet and they have a great

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warranty what more could you want maybe the rest of the video to start you need

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to ask yourself some questions what am I going to do with this computer are you a

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hardcore gamer you're going to want to allocate more of your budget to your

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graphics card and maybe CPU are you a content creator maybe you can ease up on

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the GPU a little bit and splurge on CPU and RAM are you just using as a

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glorified nass then you'll be looking for motherboard with lots of IO and a

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case with lots of Drive mounts and maybe you'll want to Splash out on a

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specialized redundant power supply no matter what your budget is this is the

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question you need to answer before going any further so I'm going to roll that

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intro while you figure it

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out now that you have your answer ask the question again but deeper what kinds

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of games do you play play Mr or M gamer

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RPGs and Visually complex games where exploration and sightseeing are

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priorities mean you'll probably want a high resolution display for the best

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experience preferably with HDR peripherals may not matter as much to

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you and in fact you may prefer to get a console controller for some of your

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games rather than a typical PC gaming keyboard and mouse do you prefer

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hardcore competitive Shooters though where every millisec counts well now

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you'll want a premium Mouse for sure and maybe even a high-end keyboard not to

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mention a high refresh rate display even if that costs you some resolution or

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some color accuracy the games you play will also affect the number of CPU cores

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you should get since different genres of games tend to utilize them differently A

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good rule of thumb for future proofing your build is to make sure that you have

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at least as many cores as a current gen console if you want to stream or record

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your gameplay then maybe throw on two to four more and make sure that you've got

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a GPU with a highquality Hardware video encoder built in as for the content

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creators out there what should you focus on well it depends on what you create a

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digital artist might not need anything special for a GPU but would definitely

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benefit from a drawing tablet a musician would want tons of RAM to load up on

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instrument patches and samples without slowing to a crawl a video editor needs

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at least a modest GPU a lot of RAM and a

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buttload of storage preferably fast so they can review their footage at full

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quality a 3D modeler needs a reasonably fast CPU and GPU for rendering a GPU cap

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capable of real-time Ray tracing helps tremendously in prototyping and previews

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an engineer might sacrifice raw horsepower for validated Hardware like a

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Quadro GPU to ensure pain-free operation a programmer wants a hefty CPU with a

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lot of threads for handling frequent compilation and a lot of RAM to go with

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it whereas a writer really only needs a keyboard a decent display or two and a

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quality water bottle to stay hydrated LTG store.com is this a Nas or home

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storage of some other sort if so what is it for Cold Storage that won't often

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change like backups ripped Media or game installs won't need High speeded to be

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usable instead you'll want higher capacity hard drives warm storage that

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changes frequently like a document or photo dump is where you'll want a

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balance of capacity and speed hot storage like a footage inest or for use

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as a network boot device will demand higher speed increasing cost you may

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also need a fast CPU depending on the scale of your storage space adding

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additional roles like Plex increases system requirements so while slower

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computers can get by as a basic file server you're going to need to account

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for CPU overhead especially for transcoding now let's talk about form

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factor computers are available in all shapes and sizes from complete PCS the

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size of a pack of gum to entire racks that contain only the storage for a bank

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of machines elsewhere in the data center the most common variants or form factors

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are as follows ATX is your classic it's

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the big beige box size it usually features at least five expansion slots

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and a taller chassis you can find these in Midtown Tower and full tower

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configurations which basically just indicate height full Towers tend to be

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easier to work with but are much more difficult to move around and find a home

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for so they've been falling out of fashion if you're not sure what to buy

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an ATX form factor case can accommodate any smaller size motherboard although

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installing an ITX motherboard in one of these seems more than a little silly

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although maybe that is an aesthetic that you want to uh Embrace Micro ATX is

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smaller than ATX with at most four expansion slots and for most people

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that's totally sufficient but you should always check to make sure

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that you've got everything you need you'll find some of the more interesting

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case designs in this size like these cute Cube shaped ones like ATX you can

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fit smaller form factors like DTX and ITX in here and it won't look as silly

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if you do mini ITX and DTX are the smallest mainstream sizes with only one

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and two expansion slots respectively these are the boards you'll find in the

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tiniest builds and can often pack impressive variety of features into

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their diminutive size however their I/O can be somewhat limited and and if your

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goal is to go as Tiny as possible you'll either want to get a couple of larger

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builds under your belt first or pay extra careful attention to your case

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manufacturer's documentation a DTX board

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may fit in the ITX case but also may not

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and if you have a larger GPU or cooler it may not fit in your case of choice at

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least not without some difficulty the next big question is arguably most

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important what's my budget if your answer is anywhere from less than I'd

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like two I'll take what I can get then

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your best bet is often to buy used you can find off least Business Machines

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available for a fraction of their original price as we've shown a number

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of times in the past these can be a great starting point for a new build

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most of the work is already done for you and many can be improved for a

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relatively small budget another option is to look for previous gen Hardware you

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can sometimes find killer deals as retailers clear out old stock to make

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way for the next big thing but this is mostly applicable to used gear the good

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news is that solid state components with no moving Parts like CPUs rarely fail

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and components with worn thermal compound or bad fans can have those

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repaired I nearly always start my builds around my CPU and GPU because apart from

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being the most expensive components and therefore taking up most of my budget

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they also dramatically narrow down the other parts that I might select for

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example I won't be able to buy an Intel chipset motherboard if I use an AMD CPU

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and vice versa and I won't be able to use a small form factor case if I've got

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a gigantic triple slot graphics card when shopping for a CPU there are a few

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things to keep in mind first is that across brands or even different

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generations of the same brand specifications like clock frequency and

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cash are not likely to be useful indications of performance you can find

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out more detail about this in this video but that doesn't mean that you can

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ignore them outright let's say you've decided on a CPU series but there are

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literally dozens of options obviously choosing the best one is easy just sort

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by Price high to low but is it really that much faster is it worth it well

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this is where the specs can help you make direct comparisons between multiple

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products in a single lineup take for example Intel's Core i 91900 k this is

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an 8 core CPU with 16 threads that runs it up to 5.3 GHz that's the turbo speed

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of course it's base frequency is just 3.5 meanwhile the core i711 700 K is

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also an 8 core 16 thread CPU that only

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runs at up to 5 GHz meaning that the real world performance between these two

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chips is 6% at most but with a price

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difference of over $100 there's more to picking a CPU than raw power however

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sometimes you want integrated Graphics sometimes you want more or faster PCI

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Express Lanes and sometimes you just want less heat and noise on the subject

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of PCI Express or PCIe as it's commonly known historically each new generation

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has doubled the perlane bandwidth of the previous one making it a major selling

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point for shiny new platforms the world over however the importance of this for

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gamers and regular consumers alike can sometimes be overstated outside of raw

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file copy tests uh PCI Express Gen 4 SSD

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will perform very similarly at gen 3 speeds however again recognizing this

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manufacturers are beginning to build their newest generation add-in cards

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like gpus and and ssds with fewer Lanes

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to save on Power and on cost that means that a CPU with fewer but faster Lanes

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can avoid bottlenecks that otherwise might harm performance for example as a

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writing AMD's apus can have as few as 10

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PCI Express Lanes available for use only four of which are actually usable for a

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GPU if a future Apu upgraded those few lanes to PCI Express Gen 5 and you

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matched it with a Gen 5 GPU that limitation becomes literally half as

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impactful it's worth pointing out by the way that some motherboards and even some

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chipsets might differ in their PCI Express version support even from one

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slot to the next so pay close attention

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if your first Choices put you over budget it's time to experiment in

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Bargain Hunt for Intel users an f-s series CPU might be a good option as

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those lack integrated graphics and cost a little less to buy while for AMD users

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paradoxically buying the G Series CPUs Nets you integrated graphics and a

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decent savings over the more expensive X Series without sacrificing much

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performance if you end up going back a generation or two to make your budget

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work be mindful of which CPU socket and motherboard chipset you end up with

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locking into something older might save you a ton of money and still result in

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satisfactory performance but it could limit your ability to upgrade to a new

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processor later on other parts work in much the same way when the GeForce RTX

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2080 came out its price was higher than the cost of a GTX 1080ti while offering

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effectively zero performance advantage and a new headline feature that hadn't

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even been used in games yet let alone proven Savvy Shoppers were scooping up

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1080 TI for great prices left and right and the only drawbacks ended up coming

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later with more limited support for software features like RTX voice ambient

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noise cancellation and in the longer term probably an earlier driver support

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end date and I wish I could say things are better now but the sad fact is that

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prices Remain extortionate the upper echelons of GPU performance today can

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cost more than twice what NVIDIA charged for their GTX 10 adti in 2017 and that's

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adjusting for inflation we live in Dark Times indeed but there is a silver

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lining older gpus still provide a lot of bang for the buck especially now that

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GPU mining has cooled down secondhand gpus are unlikely to come with any kind

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of warranty and might lack modern features like mesh shaders realtime rate

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tracing or av1 encoding but they're a great choice for traditional 1080P or

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1440p gaming if you don't expect to run it Max settings make sure you don't pick

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up the first shiny thing you see with a lot of megahertz as with CPUs you must

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read reviews to evaluate the performance of a graphics card do not be tempted to

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draw a conclusion based on clock speeds and memory do look out though for

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features like Hardware video encoding real-time rate tracing support and

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anything else that your game or your application might be able to use take

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for example dlss which increases performance at a small cost to visual

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Fidelity or the blender optics renderer for NVIDIA and on the AMD side there's

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the Fidelity FX Suite which has some pretty cool cool stuff in it as well now

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if you have a choice between two otherwise identical gpus but with

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different amounts of onboard memory or frame buffer I would recommend the one

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that has more but be careful that it's not slower memory both AMD and NVIDIA

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have been caught putting large amounts of crummy memory on entry-level gpus

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sometimes even mid-range gpus seemingly in an attempt to make them look more

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enticing even if it comes at the cost of extremely poor performance your PC isn't

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the only your GPU plugs into and as a display owner myself I own a display I

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know a thing or two about plugging in displays when buying a GPU or monitor

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pay close attention to the ports available on the I/O plate here most

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gpus today come with a bank of DisplayPort connectors and an HDMI port and

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while you might be forgiven for thinking they're the same they are very much not

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while they share some similarities they're both digital they both carry

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audio as well as video and as of writing the latest versions of both Port

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features like variable refresh rate and HDR HDMI connectors are shaped like a

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very tall D while DisplayPort looks like you folded the corner of a

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rectangle also while HDMI doesn't normally lock most DisplayPort cables

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will automatically click into place with these little teeth which hold it firm

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until you push the release some graphics cards will also support more bandwidth

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over DisplayPort than HDMI and some displays will only support certain

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features refresh rates or even resolutions on on one type of connection

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the bottom line is make sure you're using an interface and cable that are

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rated for sufficient bandwidth matching the version numbers isn't enough a quick

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note if you're short on HDMI ports but you see this logo or dual mode display

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port it means your Port can convert directly to HDMI with a cheap passive

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adapter one more thing some gpus have USB type-c ports but you can't connect

00:13:54.759 --> 00:14:00.800
it to just any display both the port and the monitor will need to support display

00:13:59.120 --> 00:14:05.160
playay Port alt mode which is an optional part of the specification the

00:14:03.399 --> 00:14:09.959
big draw to alt mode is that it can also be combined with normal USB data and

00:14:07.279 --> 00:14:15.440
even power in a single cable Thunderbolt AKA USB 4.0 goes a step further and

00:14:13.279 --> 00:14:19.120
guarantees alt mode and power delivery will be available and even allows for

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daisy chaining multiple displays or devices without needing a hub while

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there are pros and cons to all of these connections which one you ultimately use

00:14:24.399 --> 00:14:29.600
should be whichever one gives you the features you need and is compatible with

00:14:27.720 --> 00:14:34.959
your Hardware motherboard s are a contentious issue because it's easy to

00:14:31.920 --> 00:14:36.839
go for the biggest baddest board around

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but the reality is that unless you're the kind of Master overclocker who gets

00:14:39.199 --> 00:14:45.079
all their boards sponsored anyway you're unlikely to see a big performance

00:14:43.279 --> 00:14:49.440
difference between low-end chipsets and the higher end ones much less between

00:14:47.279 --> 00:14:53.120
two models that use the same chipset that's not to say you should just buy

00:14:50.800 --> 00:14:56.639
the cheapest thing a lower-end chipset will usually have some artificial

00:14:54.680 --> 00:15:01.560
limitations on things like RAM speed overclocking ability or PCIe bandwidth

00:14:59.320 --> 00:15:06.639
AMD's a series chipsets for example don't support overclocking as of a520

00:15:04.240 --> 00:15:11.240
and feature fewer expansion ports while their B series and X Series chipsets do

00:15:09.000 --> 00:15:17.199
have much more expansion including the ability to bifur or split PCIe lanes for

00:15:14.360 --> 00:15:21.040
multi-GPU or high-speed storage support the bottom line is that while some

00:15:18.680 --> 00:15:26.040
people get bogged down on details like voltage regulators and cooling them the

00:15:23.600 --> 00:15:31.360
reality is that a mid-range board with good user reviews that has all the slots

00:15:28.560 --> 00:15:36.199
sockets and RGB ports you need for other Hardware is the path of leas resistance

00:15:34.120 --> 00:15:39.800
and there's no shame in that system memory or RAM can be both

00:15:38.000 --> 00:15:42.800
straightforward and Incredibly deep depending on who you ask and what you

00:15:41.199 --> 00:15:47.720
plan to do with it it's usually labeled according to three main values capacity

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speed and timings the higher the capacity the more concurrent tasks your

00:15:49.480 --> 00:15:55.360
system can work on but the more memory you have the more strain on your CPU's

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memory controller which usually means reduced frequency and increased timings

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both of which are bad frequency determines how often information can

00:16:01.319 --> 00:16:07.279
travel from the memory stick or module to the CPU and vice versa higher is

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better while timings determine how long the wait is for actual memory chips to

00:16:09.360 --> 00:16:15.319
respond to a given request lower is better it's important to note that there

00:16:13.680 --> 00:16:20.079
are points of diminishing returns for all of these attributes and that some

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CPUs prefer certain memory frequencies because they can lock their memory

00:16:21.680 --> 00:16:28.920
controllers to match such as AMD's ryzen 3000 and 5000 series CPUs which tend to

00:16:26.600 --> 00:16:33.839
work best at memory speeds of 3600 or 30 800 megatrans per second ddr4 after

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which point it's better to drive down latencies than go for more speed and it

00:16:36.160 --> 00:16:42.199
should be noted most of the fast kits on the market are overclocked meaning both

00:16:40.199 --> 00:16:46.160
the memory modules and the CPU's memory controller will be pushed harder and

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with More Voltage than usual ddr4 capable platforms like ryzen 5000 and

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Intel's 14th gen core CPUs for example only officially support up to 3200 megat

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transfers per second ddr4 which means reaching the speeds of a topspec memory

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kit is any but guaranteed especially if you've got more than two sticks of RAM

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ryzen 5000 and Intel's 11th gen core and later CPUs support up to 3200 megat

00:17:07.319 --> 00:17:13.000
transfers per second ddr4 natively after which you're in overclock territory

00:17:11.120 --> 00:17:16.880
regardless of speed you'll want to buy your memory in matching pairs for dual

00:17:14.880 --> 00:17:20.400
Channel motherboards triplets for triple Channel and so on and while you're at it

00:17:18.880 --> 00:17:24.520
for best performance you'll want to make sure your memory is also running dual

00:17:21.959 --> 00:17:27.640
rank now rank is essentially one or more memory modules that receive commands as

00:17:26.120 --> 00:17:31.320
a group if all of the memory sticks memory is in one group that's single

00:17:29.440 --> 00:17:34.760
rank while some larger memory modules come split into two which is dual rank

00:17:33.240 --> 00:17:38.080
the advantage is that while each rank has to be accessed separately no matter

00:17:36.559 --> 00:17:42.120
what they can still split the low between themselves for better performance if you've got a matched pair

00:17:40.760 --> 00:17:45.919
of dual rank memory you'll get the benefits by default but you can also

00:17:43.960 --> 00:17:49.200
install four matched single rank modules for the same effect if your motherboard

00:17:47.280 --> 00:17:52.559
has four slots generally speaking larger modules tend to be dual rank but you can

00:17:50.960 --> 00:17:56.799
usually tell single Rank and dual rank apart by one r or two R in the model

00:17:55.159 --> 00:18:01.520
number one more thing to consider for memory is error correction code or ECC

00:17:59.400 --> 00:18:05.039
memory this has recently become a pretty hot topic due to the per chip error

00:18:03.480 --> 00:18:10.919
correction that's making its way into ddr5 but there's a difference full ECC

00:18:08.679 --> 00:18:15.760
memory has an extra chip that allows it to detect and correct errors even when

00:18:13.159 --> 00:18:20.559
the data is moving to and from the CPU DDR5's error correction is only making

00:18:18.039 --> 00:18:25.320
sure that the data inside each chip is safe this lets ddr5 vendors still offer

00:18:23.120 --> 00:18:29.840
overclocked memory kits while you'd be hardpressed to find anything like that

00:18:27.120 --> 00:18:33.720
for full ECC the more robust nature of full ECC memory meanwhile has made it a

00:18:31.880 --> 00:18:37.440
favorite for servers and high-end workstations where stability is key even

00:18:36.240 --> 00:18:41.760
if it comes at the cost of some performance so if that's you then you've

00:18:39.480 --> 00:18:47.520
got some things to untangle first true ECC can come in three flavors

00:18:44.360 --> 00:18:49.919
unregistered registered and load reduced

00:18:47.520 --> 00:18:54.400
unregistered memory also called udm is the same kind that goes into your

00:18:51.280 --> 00:18:56.360
desktop and notebook PC so your CPU will

00:18:54.400 --> 00:19:01.720
access the memory chips directly with nothing in between registered memory

00:18:58.440 --> 00:19:04.080
also called R dim includes a goete chip

00:19:01.720 --> 00:19:08.880
that the CPU talks to that manages the data coming and going from each memory

00:19:06.200 --> 00:19:12.960
chip load reduced memory called LR dim takes this one step further by replacing

00:19:10.799 --> 00:19:16.799
that register chip with an ultra fast buffer this buffer reduces the amount of

00:19:15.120 --> 00:19:21.400
chatter required to communicate with the memory allowing the CPU to access as

00:19:18.760 --> 00:19:25.360
many as eight ranks per module that's how servers can have multiple terabytes

00:19:23.480 --> 00:19:28.919
of memory in them the trade-off of course is higher latency don't go

00:19:27.440 --> 00:19:33.919
thinking you can just mix and match by the way consumer motherboards almost

00:19:31.080 --> 00:19:39.600
exclusively accept udims and not much else and while some motherboards can

00:19:36.320 --> 00:19:41.760
support both R dims and LR dims this is

00:19:39.600 --> 00:19:44.880
no guarantee so check the manual for your motherboard for information on what

00:19:43.360 --> 00:19:48.640
it can handle before you pull the trigger most motherboard manufacturers

00:19:46.799 --> 00:19:52.760
will have manuals available online in their support section storage drives can

00:19:50.640 --> 00:19:56.720
be divided broadly into two categories old school SATA and PCI Express based

00:19:55.120 --> 00:20:00.400
NVMe drives there are different connections for both of these with this

00:19:58.360 --> 00:20:03.720
being the most common for SATA and this being the most common for NVMe your

00:20:02.080 --> 00:20:07.120
motherboard manual will include a list of these ports that tells you exactly

00:20:05.280 --> 00:20:11.120
how many you can install mechanical hard drives are for bulk storage on the cheap

00:20:09.000 --> 00:20:15.200
and typically use a SATA interface we'll talk a bit more about these later solid

00:20:12.880 --> 00:20:18.400
state drives or ssds are more expensive but are recommended is a boot drive for

00:20:16.799 --> 00:20:22.280
your operating system and for key applications at almost any price point

00:20:20.440 --> 00:20:25.720
due to their much higher performance they are available with SATA interfaces

00:20:23.960 --> 00:20:30.720
but have mostly gone NVMe at this point in the m.2 form factor remember that

00:20:27.880 --> 00:20:34.480
term it means size and shape even among NVMe ssds there is an obvious broad

00:20:33.240 --> 00:20:39.520
performance spectrum and with Microsoft's upcoming implementation of

00:20:36.240 --> 00:20:41.280
direct storage a premium PCIe Gen 4 SSD

00:20:39.520 --> 00:20:44.919
or greater might offer a clear performance benefit but for most average

00:20:43.200 --> 00:20:49.559
users and Gamers the main things you want are a dram cache and some kind of

00:20:47.240 --> 00:20:52.640
manufacturer indication of endurance which is a measure of how many times the

00:20:51.000 --> 00:20:55.960
drives can be written before the cells wear out drives with short warranties

00:20:54.280 --> 00:21:02.000
are probably best avoided and even quality drives should be backed up regularly now let's talk talk cooling

00:20:59.960 --> 00:21:07.200
enthusiasts tend to instinctively gravitate towards custom Loop liquid

00:21:04.159 --> 00:21:09.960
cooling and this is usually the absolute

00:21:07.200 --> 00:21:14.760
best you can get without going Subzero which isn't sustainable long term if

00:21:12.440 --> 00:21:19.240
you're a coward but from a cost to Performance standpoint it rarely makes

00:21:16.799 --> 00:21:23.159
sense liquid cooling is a topic all in itself but the short version is that

00:21:21.400 --> 00:21:27.240
your primary concerns are going to be the water blocks and the total surface

00:21:25.039 --> 00:21:32.080
area of your radiator setup generally speaking surface area is King more fins

00:21:30.120 --> 00:21:37.720
on your coal plate means more heat transfer from your CPU and more radiator

00:21:35.080 --> 00:21:42.760
surface area means the more heat you can remove from your liquid or if you like

00:21:40.320 --> 00:21:48.720
more silence the slower you can run your many fans materials are less intuitive

00:21:46.080 --> 00:21:52.640
though copper is the superior conductor but it's more expensive than aluminum

00:21:50.919 --> 00:21:57.400
which might make you think you could get away with copper for your GPU and

00:21:55.279 --> 00:22:01.520
aluminum for everything else but if you try to mix and match the

00:21:59.240 --> 00:22:06.320
it's going to be terrible I give you my lonus tech tips guarantee that galvanic

00:22:04.279 --> 00:22:10.600
corrosion will ruin your day sometime down the line you can try out those like

00:22:08.760 --> 00:22:15.960
you know anti-corrosion mixtures don't do it it'll be really bad some metals

00:22:13.440 --> 00:22:20.120
can be mixed relatively safely here's a chart of what's safe to mix and what's

00:22:18.120 --> 00:22:24.720
not most people don't want to deal with all that though all-in-one Solutions are

00:22:22.360 --> 00:22:30.880
both cheaper and easier to work with the general rule is that a 240 mm radiator

00:22:27.640 --> 00:22:33.679
is fine for most CPUs but topend CPUs

00:22:30.880 --> 00:22:42.000
with power ratings over 200 WS will want to beefier 360 mm or 2080 mm radiator

00:22:38.000 --> 00:22:44.840
for full performance or even more oh God

00:22:42.000 --> 00:22:50.279
it's so big the main drawbacks of aios is that they are more expensive less

00:22:46.679 --> 00:22:51.960
reliable and units smaller than 360 mm

00:22:50.279 --> 00:22:57.000
often have questionable performance benefits compared to larger Tower style

00:22:54.520 --> 00:23:01.960
heat sinks that's why for most people we recommend a large heat sink for

00:22:59.159 --> 00:23:06.679
hassle-free long-term operation the only drawback of these that due to their size

00:23:04.520 --> 00:23:10.440
some consider them unsightly they're wrong and they can be a hazard during

00:23:08.799 --> 00:23:15.240
Transportation due to their immense weight at the end of the day whatever

00:23:12.840 --> 00:23:20.520
comes of your CPU is fine for most people but it might run hotter or louder

00:23:17.840 --> 00:23:26.000
than you want thermal compound for most people doesn't matter as long it's a

00:23:23.400 --> 00:23:30.559
decent brand and it's not some just bulk stuff you got off of wish but there are

00:23:28.640 --> 00:23:34.760
couple things to consider if you're not going with the easy to use but not

00:23:32.720 --> 00:23:38.279
thermally amazing graphite pads that cover your CPU like a cozy little

00:23:36.840 --> 00:23:43.840
blanket you're going to want to make sure that whatever you get is electrically non-conductive and the best

00:23:42.080 --> 00:23:48.679
way to do that is to just look at the label most companies exclusively carry

00:23:46.880 --> 00:23:53.440
non-conductive compounds with the exception being liquid metal thermal

00:23:50.760 --> 00:23:58.039
Grizzlies conduct or not for example is an actual metal alloy called gallon

00:23:56.120 --> 00:24:03.320
standand that's fully liquid at temperature as low as 8° C it's both

00:24:01.200 --> 00:24:07.679
electrically conductive and potentially reactive with aluminum parts like heat

00:24:04.840 --> 00:24:13.000
sinks and this reaction is not a good thing while an aluminum oxide layer is

00:24:10.520 --> 00:24:16.799
usually present on aluminum a tiny scratch your scuff is all that's needed

00:24:14.880 --> 00:24:21.159
for the gallium to work its magic and turn your cooler into a crumbly mess

00:24:19.039 --> 00:24:24.960
that doesn't even look real if you decide to try liquid metal make sure

00:24:23.159 --> 00:24:29.240
you're using copper or nickel plated coolers if you're content with cheaper

00:24:27.240 --> 00:24:33.120
traditional compounds then you've got nothing to fear there are some things

00:24:31.120 --> 00:24:37.640
you just shouldn't cheap out on however power supplies are a major one while

00:24:35.559 --> 00:24:42.000
early on it was pretty easy to figure out whether a power supply was decent by

00:24:39.480 --> 00:24:47.960
just looking at its 80 plus rating and it is 80 plus gold that is the real draw

00:24:46.039 --> 00:24:51.760
for this power supply Series right there it is so easy to hit the 80 plus

00:24:50.000 --> 00:24:55.720
standards these days that it's not really a useful measure anymore the good

00:24:53.600 --> 00:24:59.760
news is cybernetics lab has stepped up to build a more meaningful certification

00:24:57.559 --> 00:25:04.159
system that addresses both efficiency and noise levels and hopefully more in

00:25:01.960 --> 00:25:08.799
the future beyond that the main feature you need to decide if you need is a

00:25:05.960 --> 00:25:13.960
modular interface those usually cost more but as connectivity standards

00:25:11.080 --> 00:25:18.799
evolve like the controversial ATX 12vt high power connector it means that you

00:25:15.960 --> 00:25:23.360
have a chance of Simply swapping a cable rather than being forced to use an

00:25:20.399 --> 00:25:28.000
adapter or even replace a perfectly functional power supply power supplies

00:25:25.880 --> 00:25:32.120
have kind of plateaued these days to the point where where no matter what I'm

00:25:29.399 --> 00:25:35.559
building I would expect five or even 10 years of trouble-free service which

00:25:33.960 --> 00:25:40.159
means that I'm expecting it to power more than one build cic's vertex series

00:25:38.200 --> 00:25:45.279
of power supplies have stepped up the game in terms of build quality their

00:25:42.640 --> 00:25:49.679
vertex gx750 is fully modular and they've added a new cable to help with

00:25:47.200 --> 00:25:54.039
GPU compatibility the fans on these bad boys stay quiet without any compromises

00:25:52.120 --> 00:25:58.039
to your system's temperature and they've upped their warranty to 12 years so go

00:25:56.120 --> 00:26:01.799
check them out there's a link yeah down there click it whatever connectors

00:26:00.240 --> 00:26:07.320
you're using though I would advise you to avoid unnecessary cosmetic adapters

00:26:04.919 --> 00:26:11.679
on your high power connectors they might improve at some point but I'm pretty

00:26:09.840 --> 00:26:15.679
tired of hearing stories about these things melting power supplies like

00:26:13.799 --> 00:26:19.360
motherboards and cases have different form factors that you need to look out

00:26:17.240 --> 00:26:23.240
for though this consideration is mostly important for small form factor builds

00:26:21.320 --> 00:26:27.120
where the sfx standard provides a smaller footprint in order to

00:26:24.840 --> 00:26:31.039
accommodate tinier builds while sfx defines a maximum depth for power supply

00:26:29.080 --> 00:26:36.960
that sort of makes it look like a flat rectangle sfx L relaxes this to a square

00:26:34.440 --> 00:26:41.320
shape and while it doesn't necessarily offer more connections you'll actually

00:26:39.159 --> 00:26:46.120
find that usually the more powerful small form factor units are sfx L and

00:26:44.600 --> 00:26:50.000
they have the added benefit of using larger fans so they tend to be a little

00:26:47.960 --> 00:26:55.240
bit quieter just double check your cases compatibility because not all cases that

00:26:52.399 --> 00:26:58.399
support one can also support the other another class of power supplies that has

00:26:56.679 --> 00:27:03.600
grown in popularity over the last 10 10 years is DC todc converter power

00:27:00.960 --> 00:27:09.039
supplies these use an external brick just like some monitors or your laptop

00:27:06.399 --> 00:27:13.039
and then have a super efficient DC todc conversion hence the name that takes

00:27:11.120 --> 00:27:17.120
whatever the input voltage is and splits it out to all the voltages that you need

00:27:14.520 --> 00:27:21.679
internally they tend to be fanless and extremely small though it does come at

00:27:19.760 --> 00:27:26.039
the cost of that external brick now there are other esoteric form factors

00:27:23.799 --> 00:27:30.200
like tfx that is often used in rack mount servers but for nearly everything

00:27:27.960 --> 00:27:34.200
else you'll be fine with an ATX form factor power supply it's big it's chunky

00:27:32.880 --> 00:27:38.640
and it's the standard that we've had since not long after the Windows 95 days

00:27:36.960 --> 00:27:43.399
these offer the highest wattages on the market with the largest assortment of

00:27:40.240 --> 00:27:45.840
peripheral and 12volt plugs for CPU and

00:27:43.399 --> 00:27:52.200
PCI Express devices and drives and all that good stuff but buyer beware the ATX

00:27:49.240 --> 00:27:57.039
form factor only specifies the width and height of the power supply at the back

00:27:54.120 --> 00:28:00.600
plate it says nothing about the depth so you will need to take into consideration

00:27:59.000 --> 00:28:05.159
whether your power supply will fit your chosen case if it's not in the typical

00:28:03.080 --> 00:28:08.360
Square footprint make sure you buffer a little extra if you have a modular

00:28:06.480 --> 00:28:12.880
interface because those plugs take up a little bit more space now cases this is

00:28:11.000 --> 00:28:16.880
where builds can get very interesting there are options that can be found for

00:28:14.399 --> 00:28:21.840
as low as $20 on sale and there are options costing well over 10 times that

00:28:19.080 --> 00:28:25.760
much or 100 times who cares just keep going if you want something truly unique

00:28:24.360 --> 00:28:29.240
we've already gone over the different major form factors but even Within These

00:28:27.519 --> 00:28:32.440
constraints there is an incredible amount of variety out there because

00:28:31.000 --> 00:28:36.120
picking a case on its own is so personalized and situational we're just

00:28:34.399 --> 00:28:40.760
going to go over a few basic things to keep in mind while picking one out first

00:28:38.159 --> 00:28:44.480
and foremost is airf flow regardless of whether you're after a quiet rig or an

00:28:42.559 --> 00:28:48.559
extreme cooling rig you're going to need air flow and there's no substitute for a

00:28:46.480 --> 00:28:52.080
mesh front panel counterintuitively they tend to even offer better acoustic

00:28:50.519 --> 00:28:55.519
performance than closed front panel cases because the fans don't need to

00:28:53.799 --> 00:28:59.320
ramp up as high not everyone is into that aesthetic though so vendors like

00:28:57.120 --> 00:29:02.799
Corsair come up with options with glass front panels instead with spacing and

00:29:01.200 --> 00:29:06.640
even extra intakes on the motherboard side panel to keep things looking pretty

00:29:04.880 --> 00:29:10.919
while maintaining solid air flow secondary to air flow should be ease of

00:29:08.480 --> 00:29:14.799
maintenance if your case has great air flow but it's a pain to clean once it's

00:29:13.080 --> 00:29:19.279
sucked a bit of dust in you're going to have a bad time removable dust filters

00:29:17.120 --> 00:29:24.039
and easily accessible front panels help tremendously with maintenance and most

00:29:21.760 --> 00:29:28.760
good cases will come with these features finally expansion what you get will

00:29:26.360 --> 00:29:33.120
depend on how much of what kind of stuff you want to cram in plain and simple

00:29:30.799 --> 00:29:36.919
then beyond that it should ideally be well laid out for cable management and

00:29:34.799 --> 00:29:42.320
open enough that it's easy to work in of course you won't have any cooling

00:29:38.880 --> 00:29:44.159
without fans so what do you buy there

00:29:42.320 --> 00:29:48.200
are several considerations here including the Fan's diameter and bearing

00:29:46.200 --> 00:29:51.960
type whether the blade is optimized for air flow or static pressure and of

00:29:50.279 --> 00:29:57.440
course whether or not it has addressable RGB bearings are what let the fan blade

00:29:54.840 --> 00:30:01.559
spin freely so the better quality of the bearing the more efficient and less

00:29:59.240 --> 00:30:06.480
noisy a fan can be and there are three major types sleeve bearings are cost

00:30:04.200 --> 00:30:11.039
effective and quiet but tend to wear out quickly because they rely on a lubricant

00:30:08.559 --> 00:30:15.559
to keep them going higher quality sleeve bearing fans can last for years thanks

00:30:13.000 --> 00:30:21.000
to better seals but that lubricant will expire and once it does so does the fan

00:30:18.760 --> 00:30:25.640
sleeve bearing fans are also designed to run vertically to prevent the lubricant

00:30:23.200 --> 00:30:31.240
from pooling making them unsuitable for use in the top or bottom of cases ball

00:30:28.519 --> 00:30:35.279
bearing fans are far more reliable and much more expensive to match but they

00:30:33.200 --> 00:30:39.320
tend to be louder because they utilize actual physical ball bearings to

00:30:37.080 --> 00:30:42.799
overcome friction instead of a lubricant this also means they're much more likely

00:30:41.039 --> 00:30:48.080
to survive high temperatures than a sleeve fan so they're common in servers

00:30:45.320 --> 00:30:52.480
and other reliability first environments more advanced sleeve style bearings

00:30:50.000 --> 00:30:56.760
called fluid dynamic or hydrodynamic bearings are positioned as a bridging

00:30:54.600 --> 00:31:00.880
gap between traditional sleeve and ball bearing fans while their mechanisms are

00:30:59.320 --> 00:31:05.399
similar to sleeve bearings they're typically filled with pressurized oil

00:31:02.919 --> 00:31:10.279
and higher quality seals than a regular lubricating grease not all fans that use

00:31:07.960 --> 00:31:15.200
these bearings are good but Noctua for example exclusively uses their SSO

00:31:12.639 --> 00:31:19.399
series bearings which are hydrodynamic and very well regarded I think corers

00:31:17.480 --> 00:31:23.679
are also pretty good too there are other bearings like mag glove which use

00:31:21.320 --> 00:31:28.159
magnetic levitation for effectively zero friction and are thus extremely quiet

00:31:26.080 --> 00:31:32.880
long lasting and they also call cost significantly more than other types of

00:31:29.960 --> 00:31:37.200
bearings Corsair famously has a magb series of fans in their ml lineup but

00:31:35.080 --> 00:31:41.480
they tend to have fewer RGB options and cost significantly more than their other

00:31:38.840 --> 00:31:46.559
fans regardless of the bearings fans tend to get graded on two major criteria

00:31:44.159 --> 00:31:52.120
static pressure and air flow with some designs leaning further one way than the

00:31:48.919 --> 00:31:54.919
other Corsair's SP and no TOA P series

00:31:52.120 --> 00:31:58.519
fans are optimized for static pressure the higher the static pressure the more

00:31:57.000 --> 00:32:03.679
air that can be for course through a restrictive filter or fins of a radiator

00:32:01.360 --> 00:32:08.000
or heat sink on the other side of the spectrum Corsair's AF and noct as a

00:32:06.360 --> 00:32:12.880
series are examples of fans that are optimized for pure air flow so don't put

00:32:11.039 --> 00:32:15.960
it in front of your radiator but at like the back of your case with no

00:32:14.200 --> 00:32:19.760
obstructions they're really great for that you'll often run across different

00:32:18.000 --> 00:32:25.440
diameters of fans ranging all the way from diminutive 40 mm all the way to

00:32:22.440 --> 00:32:27.960
Behemoth 200 mm and Beyond as a rule of

00:32:25.440 --> 00:32:32.639
thumb the smaller the fan the faster needs to spin to push the same amount of

00:32:29.880 --> 00:32:38.840
air as a larger one and the faster a fan spins the louder it will be which is why

00:32:34.960 --> 00:32:40.080
120 to 140 mm fans have become the go-to

00:32:38.840 --> 00:32:44.960
thanks to the amount of air that they can push while being relatively quiet 80

00:32:42.399 --> 00:32:49.080
and 92 mm used to be common place in older computer cases and you can still

00:32:47.159 --> 00:32:54.240
find mounts for these in some small form factor Rigs and on smaller air coolers

00:32:51.399 --> 00:32:59.200
like nocuous 9s thickness is another thing that can vary and again the

00:32:56.240 --> 00:33:04.440
thinner the fan the less air it can push at a given noise level a full-sized 92mm

00:33:02.159 --> 00:33:09.840
fan for example will actually push more air with more pressure than a 120 mm

00:33:07.760 --> 00:33:13.960
slim fan you'll only really want to use thin fans for small form factor builds

00:33:11.880 --> 00:33:17.720
where you have absolutely no alternative then there's the connectors some fans

00:33:15.919 --> 00:33:21.600
have three pins on them and some of them have four what gives with that well

00:33:19.960 --> 00:33:26.159
practically speaking they both work the same but the three pin variant speed is

00:33:24.080 --> 00:33:29.600
controlled by changing the voltage being delivered to the motor the four pin on

00:33:28.120 --> 00:33:35.279
the other hand use a control scheme called pwm which means that the motor

00:33:32.360 --> 00:33:39.399
exclusively receives 12vt power but it gets it in bursts so it's rapidly turned

00:33:37.679 --> 00:33:44.399
on and off depending on the speed that is requested by the user in short pwm

00:33:42.039 --> 00:33:48.880
fans tend to be more efficient and offer finer control over their rotational

00:33:46.200 --> 00:33:53.240
speeds but it's more important to match your fan type with your controller than

00:33:50.919 --> 00:33:56.120
to choose one over the other most of your fans are going to be plugged

00:33:54.480 --> 00:34:00.159
directly into your motherboard but if you have a truly ridiculous number of

00:33:57.799 --> 00:34:03.679
fans or you just want to control and cable manage them all from one place you

00:34:02.080 --> 00:34:08.280
can get controller hubs from companies like Corsair or NZXT that provide

00:34:06.080 --> 00:34:11.399
significantly more connectors to suit your needs and depending on your needs

00:34:10.000 --> 00:34:16.040
you might want to add one or more hard drives to your system either for long-term storage or maybe to give

00:34:14.280 --> 00:34:18.919
storage tying a go for a blend of high performance and low cost whatever the

00:34:17.879 --> 00:34:23.520
reason there are some things you should be aware of like the RPM cache size

00:34:21.599 --> 00:34:27.720
noise level and cost per Gigabyte or terabyte it used to be common to just

00:34:25.119 --> 00:34:30.480
pick a 7200 RPM Drive no matter what for for extra speed and lower response time

00:34:29.280 --> 00:34:36.280
but it's actually becoming more of a liability for the drive's long-term Health now that high-capacity ssds exist

00:34:34.359 --> 00:34:39.639
higher RPMs mean more noise and critically more heat so before

00:34:38.000 --> 00:34:44.440
committing to a high-speed hard drive you should consider whether it's needed at all and when you do install one be

00:34:42.960 --> 00:34:50.079
aware of its operating temperature so that the platter stays spinning for as long as possible for everybody else a

00:34:47.560 --> 00:34:54.079
5600 or 5900 RPM hard drive should suffice and should be significantly

00:34:51.720 --> 00:34:57.760
quieter and kick out less heat finally if you want to really class up your

00:34:55.679 --> 00:35:02.000
build you're probably going to want RG GB and that means you're going to need

00:34:59.720 --> 00:35:06.320
to learn what to look for currently there are three major types of

00:35:03.520 --> 00:35:11.880
controllable RGB non-addressable addressable and USB non-addressable is

00:35:09.520 --> 00:35:16.440
inexpensive and is the original RGB header that uses 12vt power and four

00:35:14.119 --> 00:35:20.839
pins each device in the chain be it a light strip or a fan plugs into the

00:35:18.520 --> 00:35:25.680
header on a motherboard a splitter or into another RGB device in a daisy chain

00:35:23.440 --> 00:35:29.320
every LED in this chain will show the same color of your choosing which is

00:35:27.800 --> 00:35:33.119
fine for ambient lighting or for when you don't really care about patterns and

00:35:31.040 --> 00:35:37.280
animations but if you do care about those addressable is your new best

00:35:35.119 --> 00:35:41.400
friend because like its name suggests it allows each individual LED in the chain

00:35:39.280 --> 00:35:46.079
to be controlled independently it typically uses a 5volt three pin header

00:35:44.280 --> 00:35:50.200
that's the same physical size as the non-addressable type with a pin blocked

00:35:48.200 --> 00:35:54.200
off to differentiate it if you have a lot of LED strips you should be aware

00:35:52.119 --> 00:35:58.119
that only a limited number of strips can be run off a single connector without

00:35:56.440 --> 00:36:03.520
running into problems like dimming at the ends or the inability to control all

00:36:00.280 --> 00:36:06.480
the LEDs if this all sounds complicated

00:36:03.520 --> 00:36:11.599
well it kind of is that's why some companies like Corsair have devices that

00:36:08.640 --> 00:36:15.520
use their own method via USB this lets them know exactly what devices are

00:36:13.200 --> 00:36:20.880
connected and how many LEDs each of them has these will usually plug into a USB

00:36:18.400 --> 00:36:26.839
header on your motherboard and can be more complex to wire up but often are

00:36:24.040 --> 00:36:32.480
much simpler to set up usually using proprietary software now there are

00:36:29.319 --> 00:36:35.560
packages for Universal RGB control like

00:36:32.480 --> 00:36:38.440
signal RGB open RGB and even a function

00:36:35.560 --> 00:36:43.680
built into Windows 11 but compatibility can be spotty and the interface may not

00:36:40.880 --> 00:36:48.720
be as elegant as the official software or it could be significantly better so

00:36:46.240 --> 00:36:54.079
your mileage will definitely vary this vendor lockin means that unlike non-usb

00:36:52.240 --> 00:36:57.760
options they're usually not cross-compatible between Brands so

00:36:56.280 --> 00:37:02.280
you'll probably end up choosing your favorite and then using the same vendor

00:36:59.760 --> 00:37:07.079
for all your other RGB unless you want to deal with adapters this especially

00:37:04.920 --> 00:37:10.400
sucks because some companies offer LED strips with different styles that might

00:37:08.960 --> 00:37:15.280
be more in line with what you're going for visually like fantex digital RGB

00:37:12.880 --> 00:37:18.160
neon strips finally finally you'll probably want some cable ties and to

00:37:17.040 --> 00:37:23.079
make sure that you have the tools you need to set everything up if you go for zip ties for a lower profile cable

00:37:21.560 --> 00:37:27.800
management job you'll need to make sure that you have Flush Cutters for the cleanest look whereas if you go for hook

00:37:26.160 --> 00:37:31.839
and loop ties like the ones you can find on eltit store.com then you don't need

00:37:30.040 --> 00:37:35.240
anything special you should consider though whether optional stuff like

00:37:33.480 --> 00:37:39.079
custom cables will be in your build at this point they're pretty costly but

00:37:37.520 --> 00:37:42.520
they're a cool way to Jazz up your rig if you've got the cash to spare and

00:37:40.560 --> 00:37:46.440
you're after a specific look if not though don't sweat it not everybody is

00:37:44.599 --> 00:37:50.480
out to build an art piece and there is no performance benefit to them

00:37:48.319 --> 00:37:54.200
whatsoever and besides building a PC yourself is already a bigger step

00:37:52.200 --> 00:37:57.720
towards making it yours than most people will ever take once you've settled on a

00:37:56.079 --> 00:38:01.400
build you can go ahead and click through the checkout process and wait for the

00:37:59.319 --> 00:38:04.839
parts to arrive or if you live near a computer store with all the stuff that

00:38:02.680 --> 00:38:08.400
you need lucky you you get to haul it all home yourself assemble the boxes in

00:38:06.760 --> 00:38:12.720
a photogenic pile for a quick social media pick and finally you're ready to

00:38:10.400 --> 00:38:17.400
begin step two setting up your work area are we only on step two jeez all right

00:38:15.400 --> 00:38:19.960
don't worry guys the hard part's over things are going to go a little faster

00:38:18.480 --> 00:38:24.760
now clear your desk or table you're going to want a well lit area with enough space to be able to easily move

00:38:23.200 --> 00:38:28.839
around your case whether it's laid flat or upright and grab any tools you'll

00:38:26.800 --> 00:38:32.960
need a Phillips head screwdriver is a must and it's it's got a long neck a

00:38:30.920 --> 00:38:36.960
magnetic tip and a ratcheting mechanism that'll make things a lot easier one or

00:38:34.839 --> 00:38:41.359
two coffee filters and some 99% isopropyl alcohol is optional but useful

00:38:39.599 --> 00:38:46.319
for cleaning surfaces without leaving behind any residue paper towels can also

00:38:44.119 --> 00:38:50.280
work in a pinch but be careful not to leave behind any bits and for when

00:38:48.640 --> 00:38:53.760
you're finishing up another optional item is a microfiber cloth to get rid of

00:38:52.160 --> 00:38:57.280
all the greasy fingerprints that you might leave behind less optional is a

00:38:55.680 --> 00:39:00.520
flashlight of some sort even if it's just just the flash on your phone since

00:38:59.000 --> 00:39:05.160
it can otherwise be tough to see what you're doing when you're trying to get that one last wire installed after

00:39:03.440 --> 00:39:08.760
everything else is in place now completely set aside any food or drink

00:39:07.280 --> 00:39:12.720
while you're building up your machine this is build time not snack time and

00:39:11.480 --> 00:39:18.520
make sure there's nothing around that could fall if it's accidentally bumped

00:39:16.480 --> 00:39:22.200
an anti-static mat or a desk pad is ideal here to prevent scuffs and scrapes

00:39:20.319 --> 00:39:26.599
not only on your desk but also on your new machine now this next bit is a bit

00:39:24.560 --> 00:39:31.040
contentious but if the air in your area is dry then you will definitely want an

00:39:28.760 --> 00:39:35.040
anti-static wrist strap we did show that it takes a lot to outright destroy PC

00:39:33.440 --> 00:39:38.800
components in this collab with electr boom but what we don't know is what kind

00:39:37.160 --> 00:39:42.960
of minor damage might have been done internally with each of those zaps it is

00:39:41.440 --> 00:39:47.480
possible that each one of them took a year off of our victim's life and no by

00:39:45.240 --> 00:39:51.560
the way Wireless antistatic wrist straps do not work your strap needs to be

00:39:49.640 --> 00:39:55.200
connected to a proper ground and the same goes for an antistatic mat that's

00:39:53.520 --> 00:39:58.720
what that connector on the end is for to do that the most foolproof way that

00:39:56.839 --> 00:40:03.040
works in any country is to plug your power supply into Main's power and clip

00:40:00.960 --> 00:40:07.720
your antistatic lead to its chassis just make sure you're not using one of these

00:40:05.480 --> 00:40:11.920
never use one of these unless you know exactly how to use one because if you're

00:40:09.680 --> 00:40:15.800
not actually grounded you're doing all of this work for nothing to say nothing

00:40:14.040 --> 00:40:19.800
of the safety risk if you don't have a strap it's a lot better than nothing to

00:40:17.880 --> 00:40:23.839
plug in your power supply anyway and then periodically touch it especially if

00:40:22.119 --> 00:40:27.480
you move your feet around if you are using a strap though a pro tip is to

00:40:25.800 --> 00:40:30.800
wrap it around your ankle instead of of your wrist so you don't end up yanking

00:40:29.079 --> 00:40:36.520
things around while you're focused on building step three motherboard and CPU

00:40:33.520 --> 00:40:37.960
install aka the delicate part we'll

00:40:36.520 --> 00:40:41.920
start by unboxing our motherboard and placing it on top of its box a

00:40:39.760 --> 00:40:45.160
convenient and free static safe surface if you want to power on your system

00:40:43.160 --> 00:40:48.960
before you put it in the case which I highly recommend you'll want to use the

00:40:46.920 --> 00:40:52.599
box it pulls double duty by letting you slot in a GPU which wouldn't be possible

00:40:51.000 --> 00:40:57.319
if the motherboard was FL on a desk or an antistatic mat now your motherboard

00:40:54.839 --> 00:41:02.000
may have one of two socket types as of today the quickly Vanishing pin git

00:40:59.760 --> 00:41:07.160
array or PGA where the pins are all on the CPU or the near ubiquitous land grit

00:41:05.119 --> 00:41:11.680
array or LGA where the pins are on the motherboard why is this important

00:41:09.520 --> 00:41:15.560
because if your motherboard is LGA you need to inspect the pins before you do

00:41:13.560 --> 00:41:19.560
anything else if you bought the board at a brick and mortar store then they'll

00:41:17.680 --> 00:41:23.000
often get you to do this Step at the store to cover their butts in case you

00:41:21.040 --> 00:41:26.680
come back with bent pins because this is something that's typically not covered

00:41:25.000 --> 00:41:30.200
by the manufacturer's warranty to do this on an Intel socket push down on the

00:41:28.720 --> 00:41:34.839
retention latch and pull out away from the socket if you're dealing with a high-end desktop socket there could be a

00:41:33.599 --> 00:41:38.640
secondary latch for the retention mechanism that comes out the same way

00:41:37.160 --> 00:41:43.119
and they'll only open in the correct order when you ease up on the clip it

00:41:40.920 --> 00:41:46.560
should want to Spring upwards this is good pull it upwards all the way and the

00:41:45.000 --> 00:41:50.640
retention clip will come up revealing the socket beneath don't worry about the

00:41:48.760 --> 00:41:54.040
plastic cover plate for now for AMD Threadripper and epic SP sp3 dve

00:41:52.599 --> 00:41:57.480
sockets you'll need to undo these three screws in order with the included torque

00:41:55.720 --> 00:42:01.079
wrench and then let the retention C clip flip open the CPU's carrier will need to

00:41:59.359 --> 00:42:04.720
come up next which you can easily do by pulling up on these tabs finally remove

00:42:03.280 --> 00:42:08.280
the plastic cover plate to reveal the socket beneath for Intel's high-end

00:42:06.359 --> 00:42:13.880
server and workstation Zeon motherboards using higher pin counts like 3647 or

00:42:11.240 --> 00:42:17.920
4677 there is no retention mechanism simply a plastic cover plate the cooler

00:42:16.040 --> 00:42:21.559
then screws directly down into the metal around the socket with the CPU already

00:42:20.079 --> 00:42:24.680
clipped to the cooler with the pins visible it's easier to spot damage if

00:42:23.280 --> 00:42:28.040
you angle the motherboard so the pins are reflecting light directly back at

00:42:26.280 --> 00:42:31.040
you and rotated around to make sure that everything looks even any pins that are

00:42:29.559 --> 00:42:34.720
bent will need to be dealt with before you go any further you can refer to this

00:42:32.800 --> 00:42:38.200
video we did on LGA repair here but the short version is you may need to use a

00:42:36.400 --> 00:42:41.680
magnifying glass and a pair of fine point tweezers or similar instrument to

00:42:40.040 --> 00:42:44.640
try and straighten it back out fresh out of the factory a motherboard shouldn't

00:42:43.040 --> 00:42:48.520
have Bend pins at all but if you bought open boxed or used it's a possibility

00:42:46.800 --> 00:42:53.040
once you're satisfied your pins are okay it's time to unbox your CPU for most

00:42:50.839 --> 00:42:56.559
CPUs the outer box is Expendable unless you want to put it on display but make

00:42:54.920 --> 00:43:00.160
sure you take care of the inner plastic clam shell that actually contains the

00:42:58.559 --> 00:43:03.960
processor not only do you not want to drop it under any circumstances you'll

00:43:02.160 --> 00:43:08.440
also want to keep it for future in case you need to RMA or sell your CPU to

00:43:06.280 --> 00:43:12.280
someone else regardless of your CPU you want to avoid touching any of the

00:43:10.119 --> 00:43:18.119
exposed gold contacts be they on the flat underside of an LGA CPU or the

00:43:15.200 --> 00:43:22.040
fragile pins of a PGA CPU we'll get to those but first we're going to keep

00:43:19.599 --> 00:43:26.119
going with consumer style LGA line your CPU up with the socket usually there

00:43:23.920 --> 00:43:29.800
will be a triangular Arrow or dot or other indicator to help you you figure

00:43:27.440 --> 00:43:34.240
out which orientation is correct Intel for instance has notches on the side of

00:43:31.559 --> 00:43:38.559
its CPUs that only allow you to insert a compatible CPU and only in the correct

00:43:36.839 --> 00:43:42.160
orientation so you can line up with those I like to line up the bottom edge

00:43:40.680 --> 00:43:46.119
of the CPU with the bottom edge of the socket as a bit of an anchor point then

00:43:44.119 --> 00:43:49.520
gently lower it in give it a little wiggle once it's down to make sure it's

00:43:47.559 --> 00:43:53.200
seated completely before closing the retention mechanism and pushing the

00:43:51.200 --> 00:43:57.960
latch down if it feels a little stiff and creaky that's okay it's supposed to

00:43:56.599 --> 00:44:01.520
and then the plastic socket cover is going to kind of pop off that's normal

00:43:59.839 --> 00:44:05.440
too keep going until you can hook the latch back into place then store the

00:44:03.480 --> 00:44:09.240
socket cover somewhere safe like in the motherboard box you'll need this in case

00:44:07.319 --> 00:44:13.760
you need to RMA your board or sell it later on the process is the same for

00:44:11.240 --> 00:44:18.440
AMD's motherboards that use LGA sockets like am5 because LGA sockets have a

00:44:16.800 --> 00:44:23.000
retention bracket that can sometimes affect cooler mounting and thus cooling

00:44:20.839 --> 00:44:28.760
performance some Builders have taken to using CPU contact frames like this one

00:44:26.240 --> 00:44:33.440
B4 War though these May void your motherboard's warranty for what I hope

00:44:30.960 --> 00:44:39.640
are fairly obvious reasons so check that first and proceed with caution to use a

00:44:36.760 --> 00:44:43.520
contact frame on either Intel or AMD you first need to remove the existing

00:44:41.520 --> 00:44:49.000
retention mechanism which can be a little scary even for veteran Builders

00:44:45.760 --> 00:44:51.400
since it completely exposes the socket

00:44:49.000 --> 00:44:55.240
carefully unscrew the retaining screws a tool is often included in case you don't

00:44:53.240 --> 00:45:00.520
have the right driver then install your CPU as before next next the contact

00:44:57.839 --> 00:45:04.680
frame goes over the CPU and bolts down with the original retention mechanism

00:45:02.319 --> 00:45:08.520
screws the main disadvantage to this approach is that if you ever need to

00:45:06.280 --> 00:45:13.599
receip or replace your CPU for any reason it's a bit more of a chore to get

00:45:10.640 --> 00:45:17.520
it out if your CPU is PGA take this time to make sure that your pins are all

00:45:15.440 --> 00:45:20.559
straight it should be as easy as looking at it from two different angles to make

00:45:19.160 --> 00:45:24.680
sure that you can see through Straight rows of pins if any of them are bent

00:45:23.119 --> 00:45:29.160
your best bet is to use a mechanical pencil or a very thin piece of metal

00:45:26.800 --> 00:45:33.760
like a razor or an iFix it Jimmy opening tool to gently nudge them back into

00:45:31.200 --> 00:45:38.160
position too much force though or too much back and forth and these can easily

00:45:35.720 --> 00:45:41.960
snap off making for a very difficult repair job so make sure you have steady

00:45:40.040 --> 00:45:45.839
hands once you're satisfied lift the Locking ARM and line the CPU up just as

00:45:43.960 --> 00:45:50.760
we did with LGA using the indicator on the CPU and the socket to determine the

00:45:47.920 --> 00:45:54.280
correct orientation on PGA CPUs you can also just have a look at the pins and

00:45:52.480 --> 00:45:57.599
the holes in the socket typically the pins are arranged so that there's a

00:45:55.680 --> 00:46:02.680
corner with fewer pins so that it can only drop in one way and it will drop

00:46:00.400 --> 00:46:10.440
right in so if you encounter any resistance at all do not push check your

00:46:07.119 --> 00:46:12.720
pins then line it up and try again a few

00:46:10.440 --> 00:46:18.000
more seconds of your time now is worth it compared to hours for totally mashed

00:46:15.480 --> 00:46:21.200
pins once the CPU is in place I like to press down on it to prevent it from

00:46:19.280 --> 00:46:24.200
moving while I close the lever if you're a high roller and you've got a more

00:46:22.520 --> 00:46:27.440
exotic socket you'll be surprised to learn that it's actually pretty easy

00:46:25.559 --> 00:46:31.000
despite how complicated it looks before you begin some high-end motherboards

00:46:29.079 --> 00:46:34.040
have support for dual CPUs these are usually epic or Zeon if that's what

00:46:32.760 --> 00:46:39.079
you're building and you only have one CPU you'll need to consult your motherboard's manual for which socket to

00:46:37.040 --> 00:46:42.720
use and which RAM slots are connected to said socket if you have two then just

00:46:41.240 --> 00:46:47.280
double up on the CPU installation instructions trust me it's exactly as

00:46:44.960 --> 00:46:51.400
fun as it sounds for AMD sp3 based sockets remove the plastic dummy CPU

00:46:49.119 --> 00:46:54.720
from the carrier ARM then Gras the CPU's plastic tabs and gently guide it into

00:46:52.960 --> 00:46:58.040
the carrier rails it helps to pull back a little bit on the tab while you do so

00:46:56.200 --> 00:47:01.240
in order to make the CPU stays aligned with the top of the ARM you'll know what

00:46:59.599 --> 00:47:04.040
I'm talking about if you end up slipping once it's almost all the way in it'll

00:47:02.720 --> 00:47:08.800
stop moving freely and you'll need to push it down another notch before you're ready to start closing things up lower

00:47:07.200 --> 00:47:11.480
the carrier ARM to the socket until you can't move it freely any further if

00:47:10.359 --> 00:47:15.160
you've guessed we need to push it a little more you're right Each corner

00:47:13.440 --> 00:47:17.760
clicks into place and with that done all that's left is to close the retention

00:47:16.520 --> 00:47:21.680
mechanism if you're using the screwdriver that came with the CPU this

00:47:19.680 --> 00:47:24.839
is easy take note of the close order and screw in the screws in that order it

00:47:23.440 --> 00:47:28.559
makes things a little easier to get them all started a tiny bit before tightening

00:47:26.520 --> 00:47:31.680
them dead all the way it's important not to overtighten the screws however this

00:47:30.400 --> 00:47:35.160
is where the included screwdriver is great once it reaches the right tension

00:47:33.480 --> 00:47:39.280
the driver will snap to let you know you're done when the last screw is down

00:47:36.880 --> 00:47:43.000
Intel Zeon sockets are pretty simple too it's an intimidating looking mechanism

00:47:41.040 --> 00:47:47.920
at first but in fact it's so simple that you aren't even supposed to install the

00:47:44.319 --> 00:47:50.400
CPU into it wait what yeah you install

00:47:47.920 --> 00:47:54.440
the CPU onto the cooler itself first and then the cooler is the carrier that

00:47:51.880 --> 00:47:57.160
lines the CPU up onto the socket which thanks to this pattern of screw holes

00:47:55.800 --> 00:48:01.119
and posts means you you can't really misalign it unless something goes very

00:47:59.240 --> 00:48:05.200
very wrong the way this plays out is like so you have your CPU Cooler

00:48:03.160 --> 00:48:09.079
motherboard and plastic CPU carrier the CPU snaps into the carrier by lining up

00:48:07.160 --> 00:48:13.359
a Golden Triangle on one corner of the CPU with a triangle cutout on the

00:48:11.000 --> 00:48:16.559
carrier itself then angling it in like so you might need to bend the carrier a

00:48:15.079 --> 00:48:20.559
little to make it snap together but once you do it'll be a firm hold then after

00:48:18.720 --> 00:48:24.920
applying thermal compound more on that soon align the Triangular cutout of the

00:48:22.839 --> 00:48:27.920
CPU carrier with the heat sink and clip it into place it doesn't matter which

00:48:26.319 --> 00:48:30.800
orientation you use but if you're using a liquid cooler you'll want to pay

00:48:29.440 --> 00:48:33.960
attention to which side the tubes will be coming from to align with the socket

00:48:32.640 --> 00:48:37.640
once you're ready line up the triangle on the CPU carrier with the triangle on

00:48:35.680 --> 00:48:40.640
the motherboard socket and place it down the posts automatically align everything

00:48:39.240 --> 00:48:47.119
for you so all you have to do here is tighten the torque screws until they stop the LGA 4677 socket introduced with

00:48:45.000 --> 00:48:51.280
sapphire Rapids is slightly different because there will be two different

00:48:48.480 --> 00:48:55.599
carriers one for CPUs with 112 PCI Express Lanes marked with e1a and

00:48:53.400 --> 00:48:59.240
another for CPUs with 64 Lanes marked e1b you'll know which you need to use by

00:48:57.680 --> 00:49:03.079
checking for the corresponding marking on the CPU's heat spreader first clip

00:49:01.400 --> 00:49:06.599
the appropriate carrier to your cooler with the remover lever in the same

00:49:04.839 --> 00:49:10.839
direction the fan will blow or tubes will run then apply thermal paste

00:49:08.720 --> 00:49:14.520
compound again more on that later and align the Golden Triangle on the CPU

00:49:12.839 --> 00:49:18.480
with a corresponding white triangle on the carrier insert that side first then

00:49:17.040 --> 00:49:21.799
gently press down on the other side to clip it in place you'll then want to

00:49:20.480 --> 00:49:24.799
press it down on each of the four corners to make sure it's seated you can

00:49:23.559 --> 00:49:29.520
sometimes give it a little wiggle once you've gotten it the right way around align the completed assembly with the

00:49:27.839 --> 00:49:34.119
triangle on the socket and the mounting posts and lower it in place the process

00:49:31.480 --> 00:49:37.640
from here is the same as LGA 3647 so tighten down the cooler screws in an x

00:49:35.799 --> 00:49:41.400
pattern unless it says otherwise and now your CPU is installed we'll come back to

00:49:39.680 --> 00:49:45.079
the cooler in a minute first we want to deal with RAM because depending on your

00:49:43.160 --> 00:49:50.040
cooler it could be anywhere from a little bit to a lot easier to install it

00:49:47.720 --> 00:49:53.680
now rather than later unbox your RAM and lay it out in front of you depending on

00:49:51.760 --> 00:49:58.960
your motherboard and your priorities you might have anywhere from one stick to 12

00:49:55.799 --> 00:50:00.799
or 60 sticks of memory or even more the

00:49:58.960 --> 00:50:06.040
ultimate Authority for which slots to use will be your motherboard manufacturer so check your manual to be

00:50:04.000 --> 00:50:10.040
sure you never know when some engineer is going to get a fun new idea for how

00:50:07.720 --> 00:50:12.839
things are supposed to be colorcoded but we'll go over the most common

00:50:11.200 --> 00:50:16.200
configurations anyway if you look at your motherboard closely you'll usually

00:50:14.400 --> 00:50:23.200
see silk screen labels for the memory channels on ASUS for example dim A1 dim

00:50:19.680 --> 00:50:25.040
B1 dim A2 and so on the letter here

00:50:23.200 --> 00:50:29.640
indicates which channel the slot is connected to so for two sticks in dual

00:50:27.520 --> 00:50:34.720
Channel you'd install each module in the same numbered slot one in Channel a and

00:50:32.280 --> 00:50:38.960
the second in Channel B dual Channel now we mentioned before that dual Channel

00:50:36.520 --> 00:50:44.319
operation is usually best for Consumer PCS but if your motherboard has only two

00:50:42.000 --> 00:50:48.960
RAM slots you might have opted for a single large stick today in order to

00:50:46.480 --> 00:50:53.280
leave room for an upgrade later rather than going for two smaller sticks adding

00:50:51.000 --> 00:50:57.720
up to the same capacity that will both need to be replaced if you need to

00:50:55.079 --> 00:51:02.200
upgrade this is a a totally valid strategy though you should bear in mind

00:50:59.880 --> 00:51:06.000
that some newer CPUs in particular will give up a significant amount of

00:51:04.119 --> 00:51:10.079
performance running in single Channel mode if you're willing to make that

00:51:07.839 --> 00:51:14.319
trade-off just make sure to install your single module in the slot that is

00:51:11.880 --> 00:51:18.520
nearest to the CPU or in the one indicated by your motherboard manual if

00:51:16.280 --> 00:51:21.400
that sounds weird to veteran Builders that's because they're used to dual

00:51:19.680 --> 00:51:25.440
Channel configurations with two sticks of RAM usually unless you're filling out

00:51:23.799 --> 00:51:29.480
all the slots you should leave the slots closest to the CPU empty in order to

00:51:27.640 --> 00:51:33.040
improve the stability of the system at higher speeds this is because the

00:51:31.480 --> 00:51:36.720
farthest slots from each channel are where the channel itself ends when you

00:51:35.240 --> 00:51:41.000
have something in the near slot but the fire slot is empty signals can reflect

00:51:38.920 --> 00:51:45.040
off of the empty slot and mess things up in fun and unpredictable ways the same

00:51:43.480 --> 00:51:49.119
principle applies to triple and quad Channel setups they're just usually that

00:51:46.839 --> 00:51:53.319
many more RAM slots although the exact layout can change from board to board so

00:51:51.119 --> 00:51:59.319
for these setups it's almost always best to rtfm multiple CPUs get weirder still

00:51:56.960 --> 00:52:02.599
with two entire rows of memory slots with potentially opposite Channel

00:52:00.839 --> 00:52:09.559
Arrangements due to the orientation of the CPU again in this scenario rtfm do

00:52:06.760 --> 00:52:14.640
not skimp on rtfm do it are you still with me good here's how you actually

00:52:12.240 --> 00:52:17.640
install memory first push down the tabs at the ends of the slot that you're

00:52:15.680 --> 00:52:22.119
installing the memory into some boards will have two tabs one on each end While

00:52:20.079 --> 00:52:25.200
others will have just one which can make things a little bit easier if you have

00:52:23.599 --> 00:52:28.960
clearance issues with a large graphics card next look at at the pins on the

00:52:27.119 --> 00:52:33.799
memory module itself there will be at least one notch as shown here with ddr4

00:52:31.599 --> 00:52:37.440
memory this is offset from the middle of the module and there's a matching Post

00:52:35.599 --> 00:52:41.960
in the slot itself so that it can only go in one way hold up the module so the

00:52:39.680 --> 00:52:45.160
notch is aligned with the post then line up the module with the grooves on the

00:52:43.160 --> 00:52:49.720
slot getting one lined up at a time is often easiest and push down until you

00:52:47.240 --> 00:52:54.160
feel resistance at that point press a little harder until the tab or tabs lock

00:52:52.480 --> 00:52:58.079
back into place on their own you should hear a distinct click if it's done

00:52:56.040 --> 00:53:01.599
correctly then repeat these steps for any more memory modules that you have to

00:52:59.720 --> 00:53:05.319
install here's a pro tip by the way you can skip figuring out subsequent modules

00:53:03.559 --> 00:53:09.000
orientations by looking for the label side of the stick you already installed

00:53:06.960 --> 00:53:12.920
and matching against that instead keep in mind though for some motherboards

00:53:10.440 --> 00:53:17.920
with RAM on both sides of the CPU socket one side will often be flipped if your

00:53:15.480 --> 00:53:21.319
build has an m.2 SSD now is the time to install it it's pretty common for the

00:53:19.400 --> 00:53:24.640
slots to be hidden under heat sinks so if you don't see any you'll want to

00:53:23.200 --> 00:53:29.760
check your motherboard manual to figure out where these slots might be hiding

00:53:26.880 --> 00:53:33.960
some m.2 slots only support NVMe while some only support SATA and some support

00:53:31.920 --> 00:53:38.400
both your motherboard manual again will help you to identify them so if your SSD

00:53:36.040 --> 00:53:41.960
is seta you should purposely avoid an NVMe slot that's labeled as going to

00:53:40.000 --> 00:53:46.520
your CPU to leave it open for a faster NVMe SSD later on down the road but it

00:53:45.000 --> 00:53:50.880
really shouldn't matter as long as the slot supports SATA on the flip side if

00:53:48.640 --> 00:53:54.880
your SSD is NVMe you should avoid slots label is going through the chipset or

00:53:52.559 --> 00:53:58.799
PCH because these could bottleneck the drive's performance compared to a CP

00:53:56.599 --> 00:54:02.960
connected slot if you have multiple NVMe ssds and don't really have a choice

00:54:00.839 --> 00:54:07.160
you'll want to use the CPU m.2 slot for the faster SSD if applicable thankfully

00:54:05.559 --> 00:54:11.040
because m.2 slots have the same installation instructions regardless you

00:54:09.359 --> 00:54:14.119
don't need to take any of that into consideration when it's time to actually

00:54:12.599 --> 00:54:18.680
put it together remove the heat sink from your motherboard if applicable and

00:54:15.880 --> 00:54:23.760
For the Love of All that's good take off the protective film on the thermal pad

00:54:20.720 --> 00:54:25.480
now so you don't forget next make sure

00:54:23.760 --> 00:54:30.400
that the standoff is in the appropriate position most .2 ssds use the 80 mm long

00:54:28.400 --> 00:54:34.000
2280 position it may already be installed here and if so it may also

00:54:32.480 --> 00:54:37.240
have a very small Phillips screw inserted into it you'll need to remove

00:54:35.839 --> 00:54:42.079
that Phillips screw before going any further if so but if you don't have a

00:54:39.520 --> 00:54:45.240
standoff at all you'll had to find it in your motherboard box usually it's in a

00:54:44.079 --> 00:54:49.880
little baggie along with the tiny Phillip screw free it from its prison

00:54:47.720 --> 00:54:54.319
twist it into place on the 2280 position and you're up to speed visually line up

00:54:52.079 --> 00:54:57.720
the SSD's pin side with the slot taking note of the notch that's cut into it

00:54:56.000 --> 00:55:02.520
this should line up perfectly with a tab on the m.2 slot and typically results in

00:54:59.920 --> 00:55:06.720
the SSD's label facing out it's okay if your SSD has two notches but your slot

00:55:04.559 --> 00:55:11.400
only has one this keying means that the SSD is either SATA or supports two PCI

00:55:09.440 --> 00:55:14.760
Express Lanes rather than four a special note for if your SSD has its own heat

00:55:13.079 --> 00:55:19.119
sink the connector side will almost always be on the bottom of the heat sink

00:55:17.040 --> 00:55:22.039
with the fins facing outwards if your motherboard has a heat sink for this

00:55:20.640 --> 00:55:26.359
slot you might want to remove the heat sink from your SSD now in order to use

00:55:24.039 --> 00:55:29.799
that instead there's usually some clips on the Sid so you can just prize apart

00:55:28.039 --> 00:55:33.880
to release it there will be a gummy thermal pad on the inside that sticks to

00:55:31.760 --> 00:55:37.119
it but no one I'm aware of glues these together so it shouldn't be a big deal

00:55:35.240 --> 00:55:43.119
to peel it free all right enough foreplay already angle the SSD by about

00:55:40.119 --> 00:55:45.119
30° or so relative to the slot and line

00:55:43.119 --> 00:55:48.760
it up it should slip in easily with a little bit of pressure and once you can

00:55:46.680 --> 00:55:52.280
no longer see the pins it should stand up freely on its own from here it's

00:55:50.760 --> 00:55:57.920
easier if you get the tiny Phillips screw on the tip of a magnetic screwdriver before going any further

00:55:55.920 --> 00:56:01.640
because you'll need to push the SSD down flat against the standoff we installed

00:55:59.880 --> 00:56:05.559
earlier and hold it there while you screw it into place now you want to be

00:56:03.440 --> 00:56:11.160
careful with this screw it's very thin very fragile and very easy to misplace

00:56:08.680 --> 00:56:15.319
it also offends easily line it up and twist it counterclockwise until you feel

00:56:13.160 --> 00:56:19.599
a little click then start turning it clockwise to tighten it it only needs to

00:56:17.559 --> 00:56:23.720
be snug enough that the SSD no longer moves when you let go now you can put

00:56:21.960 --> 00:56:28.200
your motherboard heat sink back on if applicable now there are other ways to

00:56:25.559 --> 00:56:32.760
install an m 2 SSD including on a PCI Express card or ASUS dim. 2 interface

00:56:31.200 --> 00:56:36.640
and these are conceptually similar to connecting directly to the motherboard

00:56:34.520 --> 00:56:41.200
with the exception of how they slot in dim. two installation is identical to

00:56:38.799 --> 00:56:45.359
standard RAM modules open the tab line up the key notches with the slot then

00:56:43.319 --> 00:56:49.839
align yourself with the vertical posts push down and click into place the PCI

00:56:48.000 --> 00:56:54.039
Express card is the same as any other expansion card and we'll take care of

00:56:51.720 --> 00:56:57.319
that later for now it's time to move on to your cooler if you've got an

00:56:55.400 --> 00:57:01.200
all-in-one liquid cooler this step will be just installing the appropriate

00:56:59.039 --> 00:57:05.880
bracket but if you have an air cooler or a CPU block for a custom Loop both of

00:57:03.640 --> 00:57:09.880
these will be installed now most coolers use similar mounting mechanisms in

00:57:07.480 --> 00:57:14.880
theory but often the actual install will be pretty different for air coolers

00:57:12.400 --> 00:57:19.000
mounts like Noctua SECU firm system are among the easiest for Consumer

00:57:16.760 --> 00:57:22.640
processors no matter what socket it consists of two pieces of metal with

00:57:20.799 --> 00:57:25.599
screw down posts on the top side that screw into a back plate there are

00:57:24.079 --> 00:57:29.480
spacers fitted to make sure the vertical alignment with the the socket is just

00:57:27.440 --> 00:57:33.039
right for optimal mounting pressure and the cooler itself screws down into these

00:57:31.440 --> 00:57:36.960
screw posts right here for a secure connection let's see what that looks

00:57:34.680 --> 00:57:40.760
like in practice on Intel consumer systems nocta provides a back plate

00:57:38.839 --> 00:57:45.480
since that socket actually lacks one out of the box so instead of screws going

00:57:43.319 --> 00:57:48.720
down into it the back plate has posts that stick up through four holes in the

00:57:46.880 --> 00:57:52.000
motherboard along with a little Notch that allows it to clear the retention

00:57:50.000 --> 00:57:55.760
bolt on the lower side of the socket spacers are added per the instruction

00:57:53.559 --> 00:57:59.200
manual double check the color and then the approach apprpriate bars are put on

00:57:57.280 --> 00:58:02.640
top now because Intel's cooler dimensions are symmetrical that means

00:58:01.000 --> 00:58:06.559
they can go in either orientation depending on how you want your air to

00:58:04.160 --> 00:58:10.039
flow in your case in most situations you want your cooler to blow air towards the

00:58:08.200 --> 00:58:14.119
rear of the chassis so you would install These Bars laterally then screw them

00:58:12.160 --> 00:58:18.559
down with these reverse thumb screws on AMD because a back plate is included the

00:58:16.760 --> 00:58:23.599
spacers simply fit over the parts of the back plate that stick up through the motherboard which means that your first

00:58:21.559 --> 00:58:27.960
order of business is to remove these plastic clip adapters that come standard

00:58:25.440 --> 00:58:32.359
on AMD board boards make sure you keep those by the way because some coolers do

00:58:30.280 --> 00:58:37.200
require them and losing them is pretty bad for resale value then your mounting

00:58:34.920 --> 00:58:42.319
bars go on and get screwed down in the same way now because AMD's cooler holes

00:58:39.799 --> 00:58:47.319
are asymmetrical there are two sets of mounting bars one long and one short the

00:58:45.319 --> 00:58:50.359
short bars are what most people will use as these are installed laterally so the

00:58:48.799 --> 00:58:54.200
cooler can exhaust air towards the rear of the case once it's screwed into place

00:58:52.720 --> 00:59:00.000
you're ready to go we interrupt your regularly scheduled broadcast with a quick word for from seic reliable that's

00:58:58.280 --> 00:59:03.920
the word whether it's how seic stands behind their warranty or the fact that

00:59:01.559 --> 00:59:07.119
their power supplies just work seic has your back so grab one of their power

00:59:05.559 --> 00:59:11.599
supplies today by clicking the link below Intel's LGA 2000 series of sockets

00:59:10.000 --> 00:59:15.240
are a little more straightforward simply screw in the four studs slot the

00:59:13.480 --> 00:59:19.480
mounting bars over in the orientation you prefer or that will fit and tighten

00:59:17.720 --> 00:59:23.119
them down with reverse thumb screws similar to Intel's consumer desktop

00:59:21.160 --> 00:59:26.440
sockets finally Threadripper and epic sockets are simpler still the cooler

00:59:25.160 --> 00:59:29.640
just bolts down straight onto the socket's own retention mechanism because

00:59:28.160 --> 00:59:33.400
of the socket design the cooler can only go on one way so make sure to align it

00:59:31.440 --> 00:59:36.400
properly one side is space narrow and the other side space wide but that

00:59:35.079 --> 00:59:40.200
mechanism is so simple that we're getting ahead of ourselves we need

00:59:38.079 --> 00:59:43.200
thermal compound first many coolers come with some compound pre-applied and feel

00:59:41.799 --> 00:59:46.920
free to use that if you like it's usually fine and it's easier than cleaning it off to apply something

00:59:45.799 --> 00:59:50.480
different but if you want something fresh or you're remounting an old cooler

00:59:48.839 --> 00:59:54.079
that's where isopropyl alcohol and coffee filters or paper towels come in

00:59:52.559 --> 00:59:58.000
if it is an old cooler I'd recommend doing a dry wipe first but if not not

00:59:56.400 --> 01:00:01.359
wet the bottom of the filter or paper towel with isopropyl alcohol then rub

01:00:00.079 --> 01:00:05.799
away the thermal compound from the cooler in a circular pattern until most

01:00:03.280 --> 01:00:09.319
of it is wiped away then go over it one or two or three more times with some

01:00:07.680 --> 01:00:12.880
fresh isopropyl and a clean part of the towel until the towel starts to come off

01:00:11.400 --> 01:00:17.599
clean to make sure the finger grease and dust is removed you should repeat that last step with the CPU itself as well

01:00:16.280 --> 01:00:22.760
with the surface is clean you can grab your thermal compound most of the time it'll be in a syringe like this so Twist

01:00:21.240 --> 01:00:27.400
Off the cap then hold it at an angle against the CPU like so making sure it's

01:00:24.680 --> 01:00:31.119
flat and perpendicular to your surface perpendicular I think we should just

01:00:28.960 --> 01:00:34.520
leave that I actually prefer that slowly squeeze the plunger until the thermal

01:00:32.559 --> 01:00:38.960
compound flows the amount you want and where to put it varies by CPU Intel

01:00:37.119 --> 01:00:44.160
consumer CPUs need about as much as a cooked grain of brown rice from there

01:00:40.839 --> 01:00:46.480
LGA 2011 and 2066 and AMD's am4

01:00:44.160 --> 01:00:49.520
processors get about a psize blob and it's up to you if you want to just plop

01:00:47.680 --> 01:00:52.920
it down in the middle or go for the line or the X method it doesn't really matter

01:00:51.440 --> 01:00:57.359
as long as there's enough compound at the end of the day for large CPUs like

01:00:55.119 --> 01:01:01.000
Threadripper and zon Platinum however you're going to need a lot more you can

01:00:59.000 --> 01:01:04.599
go with two psize blobs and hope for the best but in our experience a series of

01:01:02.799 --> 01:01:07.680
dots or a line setup like this works best and we've seen in the community

01:01:06.000 --> 01:01:11.119
that a large x pattern can work great too if you're nervous about it just

01:01:09.599 --> 01:01:15.240
spread it out to make sure you have full coverage and if you're really nervous

01:01:12.599 --> 01:01:19.280
about it the Honeywell PTM 7950 thermal pads that we sell on LTT Store.com are

01:01:17.240 --> 01:01:23.280
really easy you just cut it to the size of the CPU peel it off stick it on if

01:01:22.000 --> 01:01:26.839
you're having trouble put it in the fridge easy can't screw it up the main

01:01:25.680 --> 01:01:32.960
take takeway is just to make sure you use enough to completely cover the Cooler's integrated heat spreader or IHS

01:01:31.160 --> 01:01:35.760
that's the metal part on top of the CPU with its name lasered onto it once

01:01:34.680 --> 01:01:40.599
you're satisfied with the amount of thermal paste you've used you can press the tip flat against the CPU to break

01:01:39.079 --> 01:01:46.000
the surface tension of the paste so it doesn't come up off the CPU when you lift the syringe away don't forget to

01:01:43.559 --> 01:01:50.559
recap it of course if you're using a thermal pad don't just plop it down on

01:01:48.480 --> 01:01:55.240
there make sure you buy one that's sized for the CPU you want to use it with you

01:01:53.000 --> 01:01:59.720
might need to use multiples for a big rectangular Beast like Threadripper now

01:01:57.880 --> 01:02:04.559
the thermal compound sorted just bolt down your cooler for Tower style coolers

01:02:02.400 --> 01:02:08.720
you'll first want to uncp the fan from the cooler like so in order to access

01:02:06.839 --> 01:02:12.760
the screws then it's as simple as aligning the heat sink with the screw

01:02:10.359 --> 01:02:17.079
posts and tightening it down for coolers with just two screws it's best to

01:02:14.880 --> 01:02:21.880
tighten one side a little then go to the other side and just keep on going back

01:02:19.079 --> 01:02:26.359
and forth until you can't go any further for coolers that have four screws like

01:02:24.039 --> 01:02:30.599
the custom Loop CPU blocks and air coolers like the hyper 212 you'll first

01:02:28.960 --> 01:02:34.920
want to make sure there's no sticker on the coal plate and then you'll want to

01:02:32.200 --> 01:02:39.720
screw them in in an x pattern it helps to get all of them started partway first

01:02:37.400 --> 01:02:43.559
then start teing them down a bit at a time by alternating to the opposite

01:02:41.880 --> 01:02:48.079
corner until it's tightened down all the way you're using an air cooler now is as

01:02:46.240 --> 01:02:53.400
good of a time as any to attach the air part depending on the configuration you

01:02:50.400 --> 01:02:55.520
might have one fan two fans or zero fans

01:02:53.400 --> 01:03:00.200
if you're one of those passive types you lock can just ignore this bin you can

01:02:57.839 --> 01:03:05.039
also ignore it if your fan is integrated into the cooler like with a stock one

01:03:02.720 --> 01:03:08.839
fans are directional and we'll talk more about this later in the case fan section

01:03:07.400 --> 01:03:12.400
but here is all that you need to know for now some fans have markers that show

01:03:11.039 --> 01:03:16.839
the direction the air will flow from them but if you're unsure the side with

01:03:14.799 --> 01:03:20.440
the stickered part that doesn't move usually indicates that's the side the

01:03:18.520 --> 01:03:24.920
air will come out of when installing a fan into a cooler it's tidiest to have

01:03:22.839 --> 01:03:29.119
the Fan's power cable coming out towards the motherboard so just take that into

01:03:26.839 --> 01:03:33.920
account when you're finanger coolers these days have wire

01:03:32.039 --> 01:03:39.160
clips that hook into the Fan's mounting holes in order to then clip into the

01:03:36.200 --> 01:03:43.720
grooves on the cooler itself it can be a little tricky but it's basically just a

01:03:41.839 --> 01:03:48.000
matter of placing the fan in the desired orientation and stretching those wires

01:03:45.880 --> 01:03:52.119
over the grooves in the heat sink it'll clip into place and you're good to go

01:03:50.039 --> 01:03:57.279
repeat as desired if your cooler takes more than one fan but be careful about

01:03:54.880 --> 01:04:01.480
the orientation and especially note any clearance issues with nearby motherboard

01:03:59.200 --> 01:04:06.240
heat sinks or memory you may need to either Mount the fan a bit higher than

01:04:03.680 --> 01:04:11.240
you otherwise would or just scrap it entirely it's still fine one fan will do

01:04:09.000 --> 01:04:15.480
it once the fans are in look for the four pin header labeled CPU fan on your

01:04:13.279 --> 01:04:19.440
motherboard or similar this is almost always right next to the CPU socket and

01:04:17.640 --> 01:04:22.760
for ASUS motherboards it tends to be on the top Edge as seen here line up the

01:04:21.520 --> 01:04:27.279
tabs on the cable with the one on the motherboard and press it into position

01:04:24.960 --> 01:04:30.880
either a three pin or four pin fan can function perfectly plugged into a

01:04:28.839 --> 01:04:35.559
connector like this and as we said previously all the fourth pin does is

01:04:33.319 --> 01:04:40.960
add a separate pin for a finer fan speed control via pwm so four pins are ideal

01:04:38.839 --> 01:04:45.240
but not necessary and in the case of liquid coolers there might actually only

01:04:42.720 --> 01:04:49.359
be one wire to sense the RPM of the pump because it will draw power from a

01:04:46.599 --> 01:04:53.079
separate Molex or SATA connector so that RPM sense wire is just to ensure that in

01:04:51.640 --> 01:04:57.240
the event your pump fails your motherboard can either set off an alarm

01:04:54.760 --> 01:05:03.039
or initiate a safe shut down now if your cooler has two fans you're going to want

01:04:59.039 --> 01:05:04.680
to check for a CPU opt or two header if

01:05:03.039 --> 01:05:08.319
there isn't one the cooler will often include a y splitter that lets you

01:05:06.200 --> 01:05:12.520
connect both fans to a single header usually it is no problem to have two

01:05:10.240 --> 01:05:16.799
fans on one header but don't go overboard because there are current

01:05:14.319 --> 01:05:20.880
limits through those connectors with that done we're finished with our

01:05:18.160 --> 01:05:24.279
motherboard for now but now is also an excellent time to power on our system

01:05:22.680 --> 01:05:28.279
and make sure that everything's working while it's easy to access for you air

01:05:26.319 --> 01:05:32.480
jockeys you get to relax while the all-in-one liquid cooler users awkwardly

01:05:30.559 --> 01:05:36.440
hook their coolers up now outside the case only to uninstall them again once

01:05:34.480 --> 01:05:41.240
they're done and reinstall them yet again when everything is inside the case

01:05:38.880 --> 01:05:44.920
yes it is a pain but it's a small price to pay for not having to tear everything

01:05:42.880 --> 01:05:48.000
down if it doesn't work now most liquid coolers simply have a bracket that

01:05:46.400 --> 01:05:51.880
twists on and off depending on the socket that you're using and then screw

01:05:50.119 --> 01:05:56.039
straight down onto the mounting bracket that you installed earlier if that's you

01:05:54.039 --> 01:06:01.359
make sure you tighten them down in an x pattern going a little on each Corner

01:05:58.240 --> 01:06:03.599
one by one until none can go any further

01:06:01.359 --> 01:06:08.720
there are unfortunately some vendors like Cooler Master and newer Corsair

01:06:06.079 --> 01:06:13.200
units that use Clips on AMD systems instead of screwing into the back plate

01:06:10.799 --> 01:06:17.520
and this is where those standard AMD plastic clip things come in it's

01:06:15.400 --> 01:06:21.440
inelegant in the modern age but it ensures that coolers remain compatible

01:06:19.200 --> 01:06:25.880
backwards and forwards to an absolutely ludicrous degree so you can't really

01:06:23.680 --> 01:06:28.720
blame AMD for this Slide the Clips through the holes on the Block start the

01:06:27.319 --> 01:06:32.039
retaining thumb screws enough to keep them from falling out and then put the

01:06:30.440 --> 01:06:36.160
whole thing in place and make sure the tabs were captured by the clip then

01:06:34.559 --> 01:06:39.960
while holding the Clips in position tighten it all down it's going to feel

01:06:38.119 --> 01:06:43.440
really delicate but stick with it and eventually it'll all be okay consider

01:06:42.079 --> 01:06:47.000
this a practice run for when you don't have so much room to maneuver as for

01:06:45.359 --> 01:06:52.520
those of you who just have a water block and nothing else right now well you

01:06:50.119 --> 01:06:57.920
could fill up your loop on the bench and that is what I would recommend but if

01:06:55.720 --> 01:07:02.079
all you want to do is verify that it's working you can slap the block on

01:07:00.160 --> 01:07:07.839
without water in it and Power on for just long enough to see the post screen

01:07:04.039 --> 01:07:10.079
about 10 to 20 seconds it should be fine

01:07:07.839 --> 01:07:15.000
let's get into what that looks like step seven pre-built test aka the part where

01:07:12.839 --> 01:07:18.799
it going horribly wrong is a good thing because if you don't find out now you'll

01:07:16.760 --> 01:07:23.160
definitely find out later in order to do a quick test you'll need three things

01:07:20.920 --> 01:07:26.760
your power supply with accessories your graphics card if applicable and a

01:07:24.960 --> 01:07:29.960
screwdriver first if you have one install your graphics card this is

01:07:28.400 --> 01:07:33.960
significantly easier to do while the system is outside the case make sure

01:07:31.720 --> 01:07:37.960
that the tab on the long PCI Express x16 slot is pushed down then grab your

01:07:36.200 --> 01:07:41.480
graphics card pull off any protective covers on the card Edge connector then

01:07:39.599 --> 01:07:44.680
light it up with the slot giving it a gentle push until the retention clip is

01:07:43.000 --> 01:07:47.960
pushed into the Locking position make sure it's in straight and you can't see

01:07:46.319 --> 01:07:51.880
any pins because outside of the case there isn't anything to hold it down

01:07:50.160 --> 01:07:55.039
once it's in one trick to make it a little bit more stable is to use the

01:07:53.240 --> 01:07:59.079
motherboard Box's flap to Anchor the card in place if it does have a flap

01:07:56.880 --> 01:08:02.760
that you can kind of slide it into next grab your power supply cables at a

01:08:00.920 --> 01:08:06.880
minimum you'll need the 12vt CPU connector which is usually eight pins

01:08:04.400 --> 01:08:11.000
but sometimes four a 24 pin connector and if you're running a GPU you'll need

01:08:08.520 --> 01:08:15.760
as many connections as your GPU requires most won't work without them expect to

01:08:12.960 --> 01:08:19.799
see a combination of 6 and8 pin or 12 and 16 pin connectors on our machines

01:08:17.880 --> 01:08:24.080
take special note by the way that GPU power connectors even the ones that look

01:08:21.679 --> 01:08:28.839
similar are not the same as the eight pin for the motherboard do do not force

01:08:27.199 --> 01:08:33.000
anything lining these up outside the case is easy make sure the tabs line up

01:08:31.480 --> 01:08:36.640
then push them down until they clip into place you also want to make sure that

01:08:34.759 --> 01:08:39.960
you press down a little bit more on them after you've clipped them in just to

01:08:38.000 --> 01:08:44.319
make sure that they're seated properly this is especially important for the ATX

01:08:41.960 --> 01:08:48.000
12volt high power connector which can get a little spicy when it's not plugged

01:08:46.359 --> 01:08:51.920
in all the way and this will be especially important later when it's

01:08:49.679 --> 01:08:56.560
inside the case if your motherboard has more than one 12v CPU connector usually

01:08:54.440 --> 01:09:00.000
the one marked as one is the primary one that's actually required but it's good

01:08:58.520 --> 01:09:04.120
practice to install all of them if you can these cables can often be split into

01:09:02.080 --> 01:09:07.799
two groups of four if for example your motherboard has an eight and a four pin

01:09:05.679 --> 01:09:11.000
connector rather than two eight pins with all that done connect up your

01:09:09.120 --> 01:09:14.159
keyboard and display making sure of course to plug into your graphics card

01:09:12.759 --> 01:09:22.080
and not your motherboard if you have a graphics card installed then you can flip on the power switch on your power

01:09:16.960 --> 01:09:26.000
supply and wait um where's the power

01:09:22.080 --> 01:09:27.279
button about that there isn't one not

01:09:26.000 --> 01:09:30.719
always anyway this is where the screwdriver comes in find the front

01:09:29.040 --> 01:09:35.239
panel header for your motherboard often in the lower right corner and then find

01:09:32.880 --> 01:09:41.359
the pins labeled for power switch what now stick the screwdriver in yes

01:09:39.199 --> 01:09:45.359
seriously your screwdriver doubles as a button who

01:09:42.560 --> 01:09:50.199
knew wow what else can screwdrivers do LTD store.com maybe someday anyway if

01:09:48.520 --> 01:09:53.679
you have a boot screen mash the setup key which is usually delete until you

01:09:51.839 --> 01:09:57.480
get into the BIOS check to be sure that everything's been detected all your

01:09:54.960 --> 01:10:01.400
memory your CPU your fans and your m.2 ssds should all be visible either on the

01:09:59.400 --> 01:10:05.760
main info page in the system health section or in a storage related menu

01:10:03.760 --> 01:10:09.159
like NVMe configuration or SATA configuration if you're using an empty

01:10:07.440 --> 01:10:13.120
water block this is as far as you want to go your CPU is probably already

01:10:11.120 --> 01:10:16.199
getting toasty however for anyone else it's worth making sure that your

01:10:14.320 --> 01:10:19.120
temperatures are okay here let it sit powered on for a few minutes and see

01:10:17.640 --> 01:10:23.000
where the temperatures get to when it's warmed up a bit some CPUs will idle

01:10:21.440 --> 01:10:26.480
pretty hot in the BIOS regardless of the cooler and that's normal what you're

01:10:24.880 --> 01:10:30.080
looking for for is temperatures to stabilize and for them to not get any

01:10:28.480 --> 01:10:33.440
better or worse by pushing down on the cooler if they do change that's an

01:10:31.920 --> 01:10:38.199
indication that your cooler may not be making proper contact with the CPU so

01:10:35.679 --> 01:10:41.560
what you should do now is shut it down pull off the cooler check the pattern of

01:10:40.159 --> 01:10:46.000
your thermal compound to be sure that it's spread evenly then repaste and try

01:10:44.360 --> 01:10:49.000
again but what if every novice Builder's worst nightmare happens and nothing

01:10:47.480 --> 01:10:52.239
shows up on the screen after powering it up thankly there are often ways to

01:10:51.040 --> 01:10:56.040
understand what's gone wrong some motherboards have led displays that show

01:10:54.040 --> 01:10:59.400
a two character hexid decimal code that should help identify which part of the

01:10:57.520 --> 01:11:03.480
boot process failed and you can look up what those mean in your manual or online

01:11:01.400 --> 01:11:06.640
often another LED indicator somewhere on the motherboard is present either

01:11:04.920 --> 01:11:10.600
instead of or alongside that help make it even more clear ASUS for example

01:11:08.560 --> 01:11:14.960
tends to put a kind of stoplight type of array of LEDs that show red to indicate

01:11:12.840 --> 01:11:18.880
CPU tests orange to indicate memory tests white to indicate storage and

01:11:16.880 --> 01:11:22.040
green to indicate graphics with these you can tell at a glance exactly where

01:11:20.360 --> 01:11:25.360
the issue is even if there's nothing on the screen other vendors have LEDs that

01:11:23.960 --> 01:11:29.400
light up each section of the mother board as they tested that startup so

01:11:27.040 --> 01:11:32.239
check around your CPU socket RAM slots or graphics card to see if there's

01:11:30.640 --> 01:11:36.719
anything lit up the most common cause of no video is an issue with the cable

01:11:34.199 --> 01:11:39.800
either broken or lowquality cables or plugging it into the wrong Port it

01:11:38.600 --> 01:11:45.440
doesn't really matter where on the graphics card you plug it in but if you plug it into the motherboard especially

01:11:43.080 --> 01:11:49.120
for older AMD or Intel f-s series systems without integrated Graphics

01:11:47.360 --> 01:11:53.000
you're not going to get anything failing that make sure your graphics card is

01:11:50.600 --> 01:11:56.760
fully inserted receip if you aren't sure and do the same for memory if you have

01:11:54.520 --> 01:12:01.000
more than one memory module try removing all but one and then if everything works

01:11:58.679 --> 01:12:05.000
try adding them back one by one if none of that helps but the PC turns on you

01:12:02.800 --> 01:12:08.000
may need to try reating your CPU and especially check to be sure that there

01:12:06.199 --> 01:12:11.239
are no bent pins and that there's no lint or anything in the socket that

01:12:09.639 --> 01:12:14.600
might prevent a good connection it's rare these days but some computers won't

01:12:12.800 --> 01:12:18.080
boot or stay on without the CPU fan header connected so that's one more

01:12:16.120 --> 01:12:22.760
thing to try if the rest doesn't help if nothing happened at all when you press

01:12:19.760 --> 01:12:23.960
the power button I'm sorry uh the first

01:12:22.760 --> 01:12:28.400
thing you should check is that the motherboard is getting p power usually

01:12:26.480 --> 01:12:32.400
there will be an LED or two that turns on when you flip the power supply into

01:12:30.280 --> 01:12:38.560
the on position assuming of course you've plugged it into the wall you

01:12:34.480 --> 01:12:40.560
check that right oh wait okay good if

01:12:38.560 --> 01:12:44.800
there's still nothing then turn off the power supply and make sure your cables

01:12:42.280 --> 01:12:49.400
are properly connected the 24 pin connector can often split into a 20 and

01:12:47.440 --> 01:12:54.639
four pin connector for compatibility reasons so it's possible that summer all

01:12:52.159 --> 01:12:58.880
of one part hasn't been fully inserted push the click holding it into place and

01:12:56.719 --> 01:13:03.560
pull it out then make sure it's all lined up and try again same thing can

01:13:01.239 --> 01:13:07.440
happen with the 12vt EPS connectors so triple check those two and of course

01:13:05.880 --> 01:13:11.560
make sure they're all plugged into the proper power connection points on the

01:13:09.320 --> 01:13:14.840
power supply itself most modern power supplies should make it impossible to

01:13:13.639 --> 01:13:19.440
plug these things into the wrong connectors but you never know failing

01:13:17.440 --> 01:13:23.920
all of that there could be some compatibility reasons your system isn't

01:13:21.639 --> 01:13:27.800
firing up some AMD motherboards in particular might require a BIOS update

01:13:26.159 --> 01:13:34.280
to enable support for certain generations of CPUs or it might be too

01:13:31.679 --> 01:13:38.600
far forward and you need to roll it back for your generation of CPU just look it

01:13:36.360 --> 01:13:42.800
up in the motherb manual you may need to contact the store you bought it from or

01:13:40.600 --> 01:13:47.239
AMD directly to arrange to have that done if none of that helps then you'll

01:13:45.480 --> 01:13:51.960
need to do some more advanced troubleshooting preferably with a

01:13:49.080 --> 01:13:56.440
different computer or sets of components check the LT forums for more info there

01:13:55.080 --> 01:14:00.719
once you're satisfied that everything's powered on and working flick off the

01:13:58.840 --> 01:14:05.120
power disconnect everything and then put it to the side it's time to make your

01:14:03.080 --> 01:14:08.560
case it might help to lay down a blanket or a towel or something so you don't

01:14:06.639 --> 01:14:12.080
scratch up your case or your desk while you work with it as a bonus it'll reduce

01:14:10.639 --> 01:14:17.239
the friction of the feet so you can rotate it around more easily while working every case is going to be

01:14:15.239 --> 01:14:21.040
different in terms of layout build quality and cable management but there

01:14:19.040 --> 01:14:25.120
are some general notes to keep in mind when prepping first take off your side

01:14:23.560 --> 01:14:29.239
panels and store them in a safe place place the Box the case came in is a good

01:14:27.400 --> 01:14:32.760
candidate depending on your case the side panels might need a screwdriver or

01:14:31.199 --> 01:14:36.920
have thumb screws if they're plastic or metal or they might have side screws or

01:14:35.199 --> 01:14:41.320
even be held in magnetically on a hinge of their tempered glass if they're fancy

01:14:39.440 --> 01:14:44.880
with your case open remove the hardware box if it's stored inside the chassis

01:14:43.159 --> 01:14:48.760
and put it aside for now if your motherboard comes with an IO Shield you

01:14:46.600 --> 01:14:52.159
should install that now line up the io shield with the back of your motherboard

01:14:50.199 --> 01:14:57.159
to determine which orientation it should go in the flat end phes towards the

01:14:54.760 --> 01:15:01.239
mother motherboard then align the io shield with a cutout in the rear of the

01:14:58.840 --> 01:15:05.760
case and snap it into place using one corner as an anchor it may take a bit of

01:15:03.880 --> 01:15:10.040
force to get it in just right and cheaper cases May Flex when you do this

01:15:07.719 --> 01:15:13.760
and cause it to pop back out but don't get discouraged keep at it until you're

01:15:12.080 --> 01:15:17.320
satisfied it's not going to pop out when you look at it the wrong way another

01:15:15.760 --> 01:15:21.480
thing you should do now is move any cables out of the way sometimes they'll

01:15:19.280 --> 01:15:24.520
be tied up with a twist tie or zip tie but generally you want to get them on

01:15:22.840 --> 01:15:27.159
the other side of the case so you don't have to worry about pinching them or

01:15:26.040 --> 01:15:30.800
getting them trapped under the motherboard when it's installed it also

01:15:29.239 --> 01:15:36.080
makes it much easier to Cable manage later now let's talk standoffs some

01:15:33.920 --> 01:15:39.480
cases will come with some or all of these pre-installed and if not

01:15:37.960 --> 01:15:42.719
everything you need will be in the hardware box that you removed earlier

01:15:41.280 --> 01:15:46.199
they're essentially just extensions for the screw holes on the motherboard tray

01:15:44.480 --> 01:15:50.360
to prevent the motherboard from shorting out on the tray and they screw in the

01:15:48.199 --> 01:15:53.000
same way that a normal screw would just you know without a screw head you can

01:15:51.960 --> 01:15:59.199
check the hole pattern on your motherboard to determine where the standof should go and which extra ones

01:15:56.960 --> 01:16:02.719
might need to be removed hand tightening these is enough to build but I've run

01:16:01.080 --> 01:16:06.440
into issues disassembling systems that were only hand tight where the standoff

01:16:05.000 --> 01:16:10.400
will come out instead of the motherboard screw just be careful if you do decide

01:16:08.560 --> 01:16:15.159
to tighten them with a 5mm hex socket driver because cheaper cases will often

01:16:12.760 --> 01:16:18.040
just strip the threads or skip back out instead of just tightening down if

01:16:16.639 --> 01:16:22.239
you're trying to remove one and you don't have an adapter or driver or your

01:16:20.400 --> 01:16:25.880
fingers just aren't cutting it then pliers can give you quite a bit more

01:16:23.960 --> 01:16:29.679
leverage but this this will damage its finish if that matters to you a

01:16:27.760 --> 01:16:33.120
sacrificial paper towel or microfiber cloth can help mitigate this you'll

01:16:31.800 --> 01:16:37.199
notice that there are more holes and there are standoffs what's up with that

01:16:35.840 --> 01:16:41.040
while there are standard layouts for these for each form factor not every

01:16:39.199 --> 01:16:46.120
motherboard will use every mounting point or some may use non-standard ones

01:16:44.199 --> 01:16:50.159
while you don't strictly speaking need a standoff for every Mount point on your

01:16:47.800 --> 01:16:56.360
motherboard let's just say it's highly recommended and it's absolutely critical

01:16:53.440 --> 01:17:00.000
that there are no EX exas a standoff placed where there isn't a mount Point

01:16:58.480 --> 01:17:03.280
could short something out if you aren't careful or worse it could cause your

01:17:01.719 --> 01:17:06.560
motherboard to flex and potentially break something if you screw the others

01:17:04.760 --> 01:17:10.360
in and the motherboard ends up flexing once you're satisfied you can do a test

01:17:08.239 --> 01:17:14.040
fit first count the numbers of standoffs in the case and the holes in your

01:17:11.840 --> 01:17:18.480
motherboard watch out some motherboards actually have holes that are hidden by

01:17:16.000 --> 01:17:21.760
cosmetic covers and SSD heat sinks these days if they match gently lay your

01:17:20.440 --> 01:17:25.480
motherboard into the case and align it with the standoffs you should see screw

01:17:23.840 --> 01:17:28.840
threads for each hole if you don't then make a note of which

01:17:27.199 --> 01:17:31.960
is missing remove your motherboard and rearrange the missing standoffs until

01:17:30.480 --> 01:17:35.800
you've got everything lined up if everything looks good then now is a

01:17:33.560 --> 01:17:40.760
great time to hook up your 8 Pin 12volt cables for the CPU these are also called

01:17:38.080 --> 01:17:44.800
EPS connectors these things are notoriously difficult to get plugged in

01:17:42.719 --> 01:17:49.480
when the motherboard and especially the cooler are installed so if your power

01:17:47.159 --> 01:17:53.280
supply is modular go ahead and attach the motherboard side then feed the other

01:17:51.760 --> 01:17:57.000
end through the cable management hole that is probably up here otherwise

01:17:55.560 --> 01:18:01.600
you'll just have to drape it across the motherboard with that done it's time to

01:17:59.159 --> 01:18:05.000
screw your board down now each case is a little different so check the manual

01:18:03.280 --> 01:18:10.120
before proceeding but if you don't have one then usually the larger 632 screws

01:18:08.360 --> 01:18:14.639
are used for this rather than the smaller finer M3 screws you can safely

01:18:13.120 --> 01:18:19.120
test this by threading one into a standoff with your fingers if a 632

01:18:17.000 --> 01:18:24.000
screw doesn't tighten easily then you need to use an M3 and if it's loose with

01:18:21.159 --> 01:18:28.159
an M3 then you need to use a 632 it's easiest to start with the central Mount

01:18:25.840 --> 01:18:31.320
point if present this will anchor the board into place and help keep things

01:18:29.960 --> 01:18:36.199
aligned while you're screwing everything in hence the peg version that some cases

01:18:33.840 --> 01:18:40.000
come with align the screw in the hole twist counterclockwise until you feel a

01:18:37.840 --> 01:18:44.120
click then go clockwise to screw it into place Pro tip by the way don't fully

01:18:42.440 --> 01:18:47.000
tighten this screw yet leaving a little bit of slack helps you reposition the

01:18:45.800 --> 01:18:51.320
motherboard as you're putting in the rest of the screws next get the corners

01:18:50.159 --> 01:18:56.920
and if you did everything right the motherboard should now be perfectly aligned and you can tighten everything

01:18:54.320 --> 01:19:00.159
down completely if you've got more Mount points to screw down keep going until

01:18:58.520 --> 01:19:03.960
they're all done ideally you would populate every Mount point with a screw

01:19:02.199 --> 01:19:07.400
but in the event that you can't due to a clearance issue a missing one isn't

01:19:05.520 --> 01:19:10.560
going to hurt anything it's easiest to wire the front panel header now while

01:19:09.120 --> 01:19:15.239
there are a few obstructions and cables in the way because you're dealing with

01:19:12.600 --> 01:19:18.600
small one or two wire connections before doing anything grab the whole bundle of

01:19:17.280 --> 01:19:21.960
them and make sure they're not Tangled Up in anything else they should hang

01:19:20.560 --> 01:19:25.639
freely from where they enter the case from the front panel from here you'll

01:19:24.000 --> 01:19:29.360
want to find a hole that's close to where they need to go as mentioned

01:19:27.679 --> 01:19:32.719
before the front panel header is often located in the lower right corner of the

01:19:30.920 --> 01:19:36.040
motherboard and there are often silk screened markings on the motherboard to

01:19:34.199 --> 01:19:39.159
indicate which pins are for what if you don't see any markings for it consult

01:19:37.520 --> 01:19:41.960
your motherboard's manual if your case has Cable Management guides it's best to

01:19:40.800 --> 01:19:47.360
use these now so you don't have to rewire anything when cable managing later just because of how fiddly these

01:19:45.520 --> 01:19:51.440
can be be conscious of how long the wires are and how far they had to go and

01:19:49.719 --> 01:19:55.080
try to make sure that they don't cross anything that needs access you don't

01:19:53.520 --> 01:19:59.040
want to knock them loose by accident later at a minimum all computers should

01:19:57.560 --> 01:20:06.760
come with a power switch lead that needs to be plugged into the front panel header but they may also come with a

01:20:03.199 --> 01:20:08.239
power LED HDD LED and reset switch very

01:20:06.760 --> 01:20:12.520
occasionally these days you may also have a speaker or buzzer in the hardware

01:20:09.880 --> 01:20:16.920
box and this is also where that goes the usual layout is to have the power LED

01:20:14.440 --> 01:20:20.719
plus and minus on the top left power switch immediately right of that and PC

01:20:19.040 --> 01:20:25.840
speaker plus and minus to the right of that on the top row the bottom row

01:20:22.920 --> 01:20:31.199
usually goes HDD LED plus and minus then reset switch sometimes there will be a

01:20:28.360 --> 01:20:34.480
second three pin wide power LED plus and minus to the right of that for

01:20:32.719 --> 01:20:38.320
compatibility with older cases using a wider power LED connector of these

01:20:36.639 --> 01:20:43.440
connections you might note that three have plus and minus or polarity that is

01:20:41.360 --> 01:20:46.960
it matters in which orientation you have them the connector will usually have a

01:20:45.280 --> 01:20:52.080
positive and negative indicator silk screened onto it or even be separated

01:20:49.560 --> 01:20:56.080
into individual wires but if not they should be colorcoded and the white or

01:20:53.840 --> 01:21:00.440
black wies us usually the negative for LEDs the polarity needs to be correct or

01:20:58.400 --> 01:21:03.679
your lights won't function properly the good news is that if you put them in

01:21:01.679 --> 01:21:07.639
wrong it won't hurt anything just flip them around the PC speaker header

01:21:05.480 --> 01:21:11.639
follows the same black equals negative wire convention but these are becoming

01:21:09.679 --> 01:21:15.400
so rare that you may never see one while building a computer for yourself its

01:21:13.440 --> 01:21:19.000
primary role these days is to provide feedback during boot beep codes can be

01:21:17.639 --> 01:21:23.639
useful for troubleshooting but have largely been replaced by diagnostic LEDs

01:21:21.639 --> 01:21:27.280
it has other uses but it's mostly just a relic of a byon era two of the front

01:21:25.600 --> 01:21:30.800
panel connections absolutely do not matter which orientation they go in and

01:21:29.040 --> 01:21:34.760
that's the power switch and reset switch because unlike devices like LEDs or

01:21:32.719 --> 01:21:38.239
speakers that need the draw Power these are simple switches that close a circuit

01:21:36.840 --> 01:21:44.760
still it's neatest to make sure that they line up with the other cables if present once you've wired up the front

01:21:42.040 --> 01:21:50.040
panel gently pull the slack back through the rear panel it's a good idea to also

01:21:47.440 --> 01:21:57.639
wire up USB and front panel audio now if present front panel audio may have two

01:21:52.600 --> 01:21:59.880
connectors AC 9 7 and HD audio or aelia

01:21:57.639 --> 01:22:04.600
both are keyed the same way that is they have a blank do pin on the connector

01:22:01.600 --> 01:22:07.400
that allows them to go in only one way

01:22:04.600 --> 01:22:12.960
but how they work is different the tldr is that ac97 is a mostly dumb connection

01:22:10.679 --> 01:22:18.600
that doesn't provide any feedback as to what's plugged in an HD audio or aelia

01:22:16.199 --> 01:22:23.440
allows for things like Jack sensing and reassignment most computers since the

01:22:20.719 --> 01:22:27.840
mid 2000s will have support for HD audio so use that unless your computer is

01:22:25.280 --> 01:22:31.280
really old the header for this is usually on the lower left corner of the

01:22:29.520 --> 01:22:35.480
motherboard but if you don't see it there check your manual to locate it

01:22:33.239 --> 01:22:38.520
like your front panel wires from before make sure they're completely free of

01:22:36.840 --> 01:22:43.320
obstructions then use the cable management guides now if you have them

01:22:40.600 --> 01:22:48.000
to reduce the need for rewiring later find a hole close to the header then go

01:22:45.840 --> 01:22:51.880
through it for an ATX motherboard you can usually get away with pulling it

01:22:49.560 --> 01:22:56.120
through this little channel here even if your power supply will go right up

01:22:53.760 --> 01:23:00.600
against it and that will give you a very clean look a common mistake when

01:22:58.239 --> 01:23:05.120
plugging these in is to only plug in one row make sure there are no pins hanging

01:23:02.960 --> 01:23:10.600
out directly above or below your connector when you plug it in it can

01:23:07.520 --> 01:23:13.360
only go in one way yes but only if all

01:23:10.600 --> 01:23:18.840
the rows are aligned first when it's on there pull the slack through and move on

01:23:15.719 --> 01:23:22.719
to the next one front panel USB is

01:23:18.840 --> 01:23:26.239
broken up into three types USB 2.0 USB

01:23:22.719 --> 01:23:29.480
3.0 and USB 3 .2 often used for the

01:23:26.239 --> 01:23:32.040
type-c ports USB 2 connectors consist of

01:23:29.480 --> 01:23:36.880
two rows of four pins with a fifth pin on only one row to make sure you don't

01:23:33.960 --> 01:23:40.880
plug it in the wrong way around usually but not always there's a plastic shield

01:23:39.440 --> 01:23:45.639
around these on the motherboard to make sure it lines up exactly when it's

01:23:42.560 --> 01:23:47.520
plugged in but it's usually pretty easy

01:23:45.639 --> 01:23:53.239
and they can share this design with both seral and fire wire make absolutely

01:23:50.800 --> 01:23:59.440
certain that you do not plug a USB into anything that's called fire wire FW or

01:23:56.480 --> 01:24:04.280
1394 because uses a much higher voltage and will destroy USB devices plugged

01:24:01.920 --> 01:24:08.800
into it usually the right headers will be labeled with USB sometimes followed

01:24:06.719 --> 01:24:13.040
by a port number and the headers that correspond to it but if it doesn't say

01:24:11.199 --> 01:24:17.040
or you aren't sure consult your motherboard's manual follow the same

01:24:15.239 --> 01:24:21.239
procedure as front panel audio for these cables make sure they're free from

01:24:19.159 --> 01:24:25.120
obstruction use the cable management guides and find a hole close to the

01:24:23.400 --> 01:24:30.840
header for it to go through through remember it can only go on one way so

01:24:27.639 --> 01:24:32.080
don't force it and mash up the pins pull

01:24:30.840 --> 01:24:38.159
the slck through for the cable management later and repeat as necessary

01:24:35.040 --> 01:24:40.719
but what about USB 3 and 3.2 these are

01:24:38.159 --> 01:24:44.040
much larger stiffer cables and usually you'll find their headers on the right

01:24:42.119 --> 01:24:47.679
edge of the motherboard or at the bottom Edge they're quite wide and sometimes

01:24:46.840 --> 01:24:52.520
difficult to get through Cable Management channels so if you haven't been paying attention to Cable

01:24:50.360 --> 01:24:57.199
Management pay attention now because these are the worst as before find a

01:24:55.639 --> 01:25:02.800
hole near the USB 3 hutter on the motherboard and line it up but don't

01:24:59.360 --> 01:25:05.600
connect it just yet listen first usb3

01:25:02.800 --> 01:25:08.960
connectors are very fussy and it's easy even for a professional builder to mash

01:25:07.560 --> 01:25:13.679
the pins due to the way that it's installed the connector easily contacts

01:25:11.520 --> 01:25:17.320
the pins before it is fully aligned and the force required to plug it in is much

01:25:16.000 --> 01:25:21.719
higher than the other connectors we've seen so far that basically means that

01:25:19.760 --> 01:25:25.520
you won't know if it's aligned and you won't know if you've mashed anything by

01:25:23.400 --> 01:25:31.400
feel alone if you do manage to bend a pin chances are it won't unbend without

01:25:28.000 --> 01:25:33.040
snapping so very carefully line it up

01:25:31.400 --> 01:25:37.280
and don't apply pressure until you are reasonably sure that the pins are

01:25:34.480 --> 01:25:42.320
aligned if all goes well it should snap or click into place and you can breathe

01:25:39.360 --> 01:25:45.880
a sigh of relief unlike the other cables this one is very stiff so Cable

01:25:43.960 --> 01:25:50.040
Management should be done with a very gentle touch if you accidentally pull it

01:25:48.159 --> 01:25:53.480
out you'll probably end up bending all the pins in the header at the same time

01:25:51.719 --> 01:25:59.159
and at that point you can just say goodbye friend you USB 3 USB 3.2 is a

01:25:56.920 --> 01:26:02.880
lot easier but has the annoying quality of being both very stiff and standing

01:26:01.440 --> 01:26:07.080
straight up off the motherboard most of the time usually these connectors will

01:26:05.000 --> 01:26:10.639
be found near the 24 pin power connector and are keyed to only go in one way you

01:26:09.280 --> 01:26:14.159
don't have to worry about mashing pins on this one thankfully so you can just

01:26:12.360 --> 01:26:18.320
plug it right in but it does have the annoying tendency to kind of rock out of

01:26:16.119 --> 01:26:21.880
place so again a light touch is needed for cable management now there are other

01:26:20.159 --> 01:26:27.080
older headers that you might come across even today like cereal fire wire

01:26:24.400 --> 01:26:31.119
parallel and more and you can think of these the same way that you think of the

01:26:28.520 --> 01:26:34.800
USB 2 or front panel audio connectors just make absolutely certain that you

01:26:32.639 --> 01:26:39.520
are connecting to what you think you are serial for example is often labeled Comm

01:26:37.199 --> 01:26:43.560
parallel will often be labeled lpt and firewire may be labeled 1394 just keep

01:26:42.239 --> 01:26:47.440
this in mind if you're hunting around for more USB headers to plug into oh a

01:26:45.760 --> 01:26:52.080
fun little aside is if you run out of internal usb2 headers you can actually

01:26:49.679 --> 01:26:56.080
get hubs that will expand them since that's a thing that USB can do if you

01:26:54.040 --> 01:26:59.960
have any 2 and 1/2 in or 3 and 1/2 in drives now's a good time to get them

01:26:57.800 --> 01:27:03.440
installed most modern cases have dedicated trays behind the motherboard

01:27:01.679 --> 01:27:07.400
or elsewhere for the smaller 2 and 1/2 in type usually with the expectation

01:27:05.480 --> 01:27:11.600
that you'll be using them with an SSD and let's face it you probably are these

01:27:09.760 --> 01:27:15.199
are almost always removable with a thumb screw or something like that just remove

01:27:13.639 --> 01:27:19.040
the screw and slide it free to get access your SSD will also have fine

01:27:17.440 --> 01:27:22.560
threaded and three holes that screw onto the bottom of the tray as well as the

01:27:20.440 --> 01:27:25.920
sides some trays use one set or the other and there will be counter sunk or

01:27:24.280 --> 01:27:30.920
flat screws for this purpose included with the case Hardware box align the SSD

01:27:28.560 --> 01:27:33.880
with the holes then screw it in place when it's solid go ahead and slip it

01:27:32.400 --> 01:27:37.719
back into the position by aligning the tabs and using the thumb screws to

01:27:35.440 --> 01:27:41.760
secure it if you got more go ahead and repeat the process most cases come with

01:27:39.880 --> 01:27:45.520
removable trays for 3 and 1/2 in hard drives these days usually clipped in

01:27:43.440 --> 01:27:49.199
with two tabs like this pinch them and Slide the tray out to remove it and like

01:27:47.159 --> 01:27:52.360
the 2 and 1/2 in sled it may have holes either on the sides or the bottom

01:27:50.440 --> 01:27:55.560
depending on the manufacturer the drive should face label up with the PCB on the

01:27:54.239 --> 01:27:58.840
bottom and its connector should be on the side without tabs so that when it

01:27:57.440 --> 01:28:02.080
slides back in they're facing the motherboard tray side of the case many

01:28:00.800 --> 01:28:07.679
of these will have shock absorbing rubber grommets through which long course threaded 632 screws from the

01:28:05.600 --> 01:28:11.360
hardware box are inserted these are the good ones some however are completely

01:28:09.960 --> 01:28:16.080
tooless and these can be kind of annoying because you need to kind of stretch it around the hard drive to get

01:28:14.080 --> 01:28:20.040
it to clip into place it never feels quite right regardless of the type most

01:28:17.960 --> 01:28:24.119
modern 3 and 1/2 in trays also have 2 and 1/2 in mounting holes for ssds too

01:28:22.360 --> 01:28:26.480
which follow the same installation steps unless they don't have grommets in which

01:28:25.600 --> 01:28:31.520
case you're just going to screw it directly in like the other 2 and 1/2 in Drive sleds we mentioned earlier

01:28:30.199 --> 01:28:34.679
assuming that's the case screw in the fine threaded M3 screws from the bottom

01:28:33.440 --> 01:28:39.840
with the label up and the connectors facing the rear repeat these steps until all of your drives are installed if your

01:28:38.040 --> 01:28:43.520
case is an older design with fixed Mount says is common with extreme budget

01:28:41.440 --> 01:28:46.520
builds then you'll need to angle the drive into place and then line it up on

01:28:45.080 --> 01:28:52.520
the rail with the connectors facing inside of the case yes it is as messy as

01:28:50.480 --> 01:28:56.040
that sounds when you line it up two mounting holes for course threaded 6 32

01:28:54.480 --> 01:28:59.800
screws on each side should be visible through the cutouts and while some cases

01:28:58.199 --> 01:29:03.960
give you some leeway from mounting it further forward or rearward you're

01:29:01.679 --> 01:29:09.239
limited to these holes a lot of people neglect the screws on the other side but

01:29:06.639 --> 01:29:16.280
you're not like them are you you're not one of those no of course not I mean if

01:29:13.320 --> 01:29:19.480
you need to mount a 2.5 in SSD this way that's fine they don't have any moving

01:29:18.080 --> 01:29:22.960
parts and they're not all that heavy so you can even just like double-sided tape

01:29:21.159 --> 01:29:28.600
them to wherever you want if it comes to that but heavy 3.5 in hard drives need

01:29:26.520 --> 01:29:32.119
to be screwed in properly at least if you want them to last for any period of

01:29:30.040 --> 01:29:35.600
time you're probably wondering how the computer talks to these drives at this

01:29:33.560 --> 01:29:40.239
point and that's where the data cable comes in Serial ATA has made things dead

01:29:38.360 --> 01:29:43.880
simple and most motherboards will come with cables for it in the Box sometimes

01:29:42.480 --> 01:29:47.719
they'll have locking tabs on them to keep them in place while installing them

01:29:46.119 --> 01:29:52.000
they'll kind of clip in automatically but to remove them you need to press down on the clip to pull it out

01:29:50.800 --> 01:29:55.880
regardless as to whether or not they clip though they're key in an L shape

01:29:54.239 --> 01:30:00.000
that makes it very obvious which way is the right way to insert them line the L

01:29:58.199 --> 01:30:03.760
on the cable up with the L on the drive and just plug it in making sure it's

01:30:01.679 --> 01:30:10.199
flush with the drive then route the cable through to your motherboard sounds

01:30:05.600 --> 01:30:12.480
simple but these are stiff cables that

01:30:10.199 --> 01:30:15.880
are tough to Cable manage so you may need to get a little bit creative when

01:30:14.199 --> 01:30:21.600
hiding them especially if the corresponding connector on your motherboard isn't facing the edge like

01:30:19.199 --> 01:30:25.080
this and instead sticks up like this like the USB 3 connector you'll want to

01:30:23.639 --> 01:30:29.600
be care careful while cable managing these if you accidentally overdo it you

01:30:27.239 --> 01:30:33.719
can break off the L block on the drive rendering it useless unless you've got

01:30:31.520 --> 01:30:37.920
some pretty mad soldering skills I mean I guess it's not that difficult but oh

01:30:35.960 --> 01:30:40.880
you don't want to do it anyway go ahead and connect the other end of the cable

01:30:39.159 --> 01:30:46.000
to the drive now you should check with your motherboard manual which Port you're plugging into because some may

01:30:44.280 --> 01:30:50.800
actually share bandwidth with PCI Express devices especially m.2 drives so

01:30:49.000 --> 01:30:54.600
you may either get worse performance or completely lose the ability to use these

01:30:52.600 --> 01:30:57.360
ports in those circumstances it's worth mentioning that you'll

01:30:55.800 --> 01:31:01.560
sometimes get Serial ATA cables with right angle ends and some with straight

01:30:59.040 --> 01:31:05.280
ends uh what gives with that well right angle is usually cleaner for hanging off

01:31:03.800 --> 01:31:09.080
the back of a hard drive that's installed in a removable tray like this

01:31:07.480 --> 01:31:13.480
while straight cables are almost a necessity for 2.5 in ssds mounted on a

01:31:11.600 --> 01:31:17.199
dedicated tray behind the motherboard or anywhere else they mount flush with the

01:31:14.920 --> 01:31:20.719
case they're way cleaner this way and depending on the orientation it may not

01:31:19.440 --> 01:31:25.639
even be possible to connect a right angle connector on one of these drives so saving the straight ones for flush

01:31:24.119 --> 01:31:31.000
fitting drives is a good idea what's that other connector for though power

01:31:28.199 --> 01:31:35.440
we'll get to that soon but first this is an excellent time to wire up any case

01:31:33.320 --> 01:31:39.679
fans you might have and for builds with liquid coolers this is where those come

01:31:37.840 --> 01:31:43.719
in if you're going to use a fan controller then you should find a

01:31:41.480 --> 01:31:47.600
centrally accessible place for it to go usually they'll come with an adhesive

01:31:45.480 --> 01:31:52.480
backing so you can just find your own spot for it and hook it there just don't

01:31:50.159 --> 01:31:56.760
cover up any holes or cable management holes if you can help it we'll deal with

01:31:54.560 --> 01:32:00.239
the power for that later for now let's get to the fans themselves whether

01:31:58.360 --> 01:32:04.040
you're replacing existing fans or installing new ones you'll need to pay

01:32:02.199 --> 01:32:08.440
close attention to the direction the fan will blow some people prefer a balanced

01:32:06.560 --> 01:32:12.719
approach to air flow with equal number of fans pulling air in than pushing it

01:32:10.679 --> 01:32:17.040
out while others prefer to have more fans facing in resulting in a slightly

01:32:15.320 --> 01:32:22.280
positive pressure environment inside of the case combined with filtered intakes

01:32:19.679 --> 01:32:26.679
this can help control dust and debris the opposite negative pressure is not

01:32:24.520 --> 01:32:30.920
recommended regardless you want to have a direct path for air to travel with

01:32:29.000 --> 01:32:35.719
fresh air being pulled over your hottest components so ideally drawing Air at the

01:32:33.520 --> 01:32:40.280
front and bottom and exhausting it from the top and rear also make sure you

01:32:37.880 --> 01:32:44.400
don't have any intake and exhausts on the same side how you install the fan

01:32:42.480 --> 01:32:48.520
will be determined by what the fan is going to do if the fan is strictly for

01:32:46.639 --> 01:32:51.600
case air flow then it's as simple as lining it up with the correct set of

01:32:49.760 --> 01:32:55.199
holes in the location you want it and screwing it in with these chungus fan

01:32:53.199 --> 01:32:58.960
screws or or little rubber doodads like these ones be sure to keep the fan

01:32:57.239 --> 01:33:02.239
cabling clear of the blades and Chassis while you do this and it's optimal to

01:33:00.920 --> 01:33:05.679
have the fan cable sticking out of the corner closest to the fan header that

01:33:03.920 --> 01:33:09.159
you expect to use it with usually towards the back panel it helps to not

01:33:07.600 --> 01:33:13.440
tighten down all the screws until they're all at least a little bit in and

01:33:11.719 --> 01:33:16.520
you'll want to do opposing Corners first to stabilize it so that it doesn't slip

01:33:15.360 --> 01:33:20.480
around on you while you torque in the screws some cheaper cases by the way

01:33:18.760 --> 01:33:24.159
might warp while you do this leading to the unfortunate situation where your fan

01:33:22.199 --> 01:33:28.080
blades will brush against the chassis which is both irritating and not great

01:33:26.239 --> 01:33:32.000
for air flow you can try to bend out the metal but the best solution in this case

01:33:30.119 --> 01:33:35.920
is to undo the screws a little bit or better yet find something to use as a

01:33:33.719 --> 01:33:39.520
spacer rinse and repeat for every fan you need to install if these fans are

01:33:37.800 --> 01:33:43.159
part of a liquid cooling setup then your radiator is going to go in now and you

01:33:41.360 --> 01:33:48.199
can put away those chungus fan screws in favor of Slimmer but potentially even

01:33:45.440 --> 01:33:51.800
more chungus screws where the radiator goes is up to you some people like to

01:33:50.159 --> 01:33:55.440
have it exhaust air out the top of their chassis While others like to have it

01:33:53.800 --> 01:33:59.199
pull cool air through the front but at the end of the day you're probably going

01:33:57.199 --> 01:34:03.119
to put it wherever it fits best which is usually in the top of the case now from

01:34:01.040 --> 01:34:07.239
a performance standpoint it doesn't really matter whether your fans pull air

01:34:05.119 --> 01:34:12.560
through the fins or push air through the fins but what it does affect is

01:34:09.920 --> 01:34:17.159
maintenance I always recommend installing fans in a pole configuration

01:34:14.960 --> 01:34:21.520
that allows easy access to the radiator to clear off dust for Aesthetics you may

01:34:19.639 --> 01:34:24.639
decide to take a different path but just remember that in 2 years when you're

01:34:23.000 --> 01:34:29.360
taking your whole cooler apart so you can get the cat hair out of it I

01:34:26.800 --> 01:34:34.119
freaking told you another important consideration is that AI coolers are

01:34:31.400 --> 01:34:38.639
quieter and last longer the combination pump and coal plate is below the area

01:34:36.560 --> 01:34:42.800
where the tubes connect to the radiator you want to make sure that any air that

01:34:40.520 --> 01:34:47.679
might be trapped in there Rises to the top and that top is not your pump this

01:34:45.880 --> 01:34:50.920
isn't as much of an issue for custom Loops because the pump is usually going

01:34:49.400 --> 01:34:54.159
to end up at the bottom of the case anyway but if you didn't know this now

01:34:53.360 --> 01:34:58.800
you do put your pump down low lining up the

01:34:56.360 --> 01:35:04.000
radiator with fans on the outside is a major pain in the butt which is why some

01:35:00.960 --> 01:35:05.760
fans like artics bionics can daisy chain

01:35:04.000 --> 01:35:10.199
together with a bridge connector which helps hold them in place regardless you

01:35:08.119 --> 01:35:15.920
want all of your cables to be clear the fans and the radiator pinching them here

01:35:12.960 --> 01:35:20.920
and having to redo the whole thing sucks line everything up like so and then use

01:35:18.360 --> 01:35:25.920
these long screws to secure Each corner then the other and then Each corner of

01:35:23.320 --> 01:35:31.119
the fan until you've got them all secure if you're lucky your case will let you

01:35:28.239 --> 01:35:34.719
detach the radiator Mount and make it so much easier by just doing the whole

01:35:32.679 --> 01:35:40.719
thing on a bench and dealing with the completed assembly after it gets much

01:35:38.360 --> 01:35:45.239
more Awkward with a front panel Mount where you need to basically hold the

01:35:42.360 --> 01:35:49.440
radiator and fan together like this and screw them in one at a time so they

01:35:47.159 --> 01:35:53.280
don't just fall around everywhere again if your case lets you remove this

01:35:50.600 --> 01:35:56.880
bracket your life will be so much easier another key benefit to a pull

01:35:54.760 --> 01:36:00.520
configuration is that it usually allows you to screw all the fans into the

01:35:58.360 --> 01:36:04.600
radiator ahead of time then Mount the radiator to the case using these little

01:36:02.480 --> 01:36:08.000
screws now we're not going to revisit cooler and thermal compound application

01:36:06.280 --> 01:36:11.920
at this time please go back and refer to that section from earlier if you need to

01:36:10.040 --> 01:36:16.000
and don't forget to check your manual as many all-in-one coolers have their own

01:36:13.679 --> 01:36:20.080
little installation quirks like for example the inclusion of a dedicated

01:36:17.679 --> 01:36:23.920
pump power plug or an extra USB connection for controlling RGB lighting

01:36:22.080 --> 01:36:27.320
or even a little built-in screen or an integrated fan splitter that's

01:36:25.280 --> 01:36:30.080
controlled by the AI through software I'd recommend using that by the way if

01:36:28.800 --> 01:36:34.960
you've got it because it'll let your pump and your fans work together when they need to cool your CPU during a

01:36:33.199 --> 01:36:38.280
heavy gaming session now let's power up the rest of our fans if you want them to

01:36:36.760 --> 01:36:41.360
be controlled by the motherboard you'll either need to plug them into a fanhub

01:36:39.880 --> 01:36:45.480
that is plugged into your motherboard some cases include these by the way or

01:36:43.639 --> 01:36:49.639
directly into the motherboard itself either individually into their own

01:36:47.119 --> 01:36:53.040
headers or using Splitters now depending on how many fans you have you may run

01:36:51.480 --> 01:36:56.840
out of fan headers on the motherboard and you might need to use wi spitters

01:36:55.000 --> 01:37:00.679
they won't harm anything but they do tend to look a little Messier most of

01:36:58.760 --> 01:37:04.440
the time there's at least one case fan header to the lower left of the CPU

01:37:02.199 --> 01:37:07.840
socket and there are usually at least another two on the lower right edge of

01:37:06.280 --> 01:37:11.440
the motherboard but motherboard manufacturers do strange things

01:37:09.760 --> 01:37:15.280
sometimes so if you can't find your fan headers of course check your manual

01:37:13.639 --> 01:37:19.119
plugging them in is the same as any other fan like we already did for the

01:37:16.920 --> 01:37:23.119
CPU just align the tabs on the cable with the tab on the board cable managing

01:37:21.159 --> 01:37:27.199
them though can be a bit of a challenge for the exhaust fan next to the io panel

01:37:25.199 --> 01:37:31.040
you can usually run it through and bundle it up against the motherboard's

01:37:28.600 --> 01:37:36.239
io section for a clean look but intake fans can be trickier still do your best

01:37:33.760 --> 01:37:41.080
with it RGB wiring can also end up really messy look at all the cabling

01:37:37.960 --> 01:37:43.920
that requires thankfully companies have

01:37:41.080 --> 01:37:49.040
begun shipping fans both with RGB and without that can daisy chain together so

01:37:46.760 --> 01:37:53.599
only a single fan needs to be wired up the traditional way but if you're not

01:37:50.920 --> 01:37:57.960
lucky enough or wealthy enough to have those well I hope you like cable

01:37:58.080 --> 01:38:04.719
management most of this can be hidden behind the motherboard tray temporarily

01:38:02.199 --> 01:38:11.320
we'll come back to this later for now step 12 power supply if you're counting

01:38:08.679 --> 01:38:16.360
this has been many many more steps than 12 and you're probably sick of wearing

01:38:13.280 --> 01:38:18.199
that anti-static strap well good news

01:38:16.360 --> 01:38:22.320
it's time to get the power supply in to ground the whole dang computer if you've

01:38:20.679 --> 01:38:25.920
been following along your power supply is already out of its box and connect it

01:38:24.080 --> 01:38:29.679
to the wall go ahead and disconnect it now turn your case around and look at

01:38:27.880 --> 01:38:34.880
the power supply cutout are there thumb screws if so remove those to free the

01:38:32.239 --> 01:38:38.040
back plate this plate and plates like it sometimes make it a little bit easier to

01:38:36.239 --> 01:38:41.840
install later the orientation of the power supply determines which screw

01:38:39.520 --> 01:38:46.040
holes you'll end up using and the ideal is to have the fan facing downward

01:38:44.040 --> 01:38:50.719
pulling air up through a filtered intake at the bottom of your case if there is

01:38:48.119 --> 01:38:54.159
not an intake there you'll want to mount it fan up unless you want to starve it

01:38:52.639 --> 01:38:58.800
for air flow and spoiler alert you do not want to start

01:38:56.639 --> 01:39:02.400
it for air flow begin plugging in your power supply cables if you've got a

01:39:00.080 --> 01:39:07.360
modular unit now the end for the power supply will usually have a PSU marking

01:39:04.719 --> 01:39:10.480
to tell you where it goes first grab the power connectors for your GPU if you

01:39:08.920 --> 01:39:14.679
haven't already it'll be some combination of one to three six pin or8

01:39:13.080 --> 01:39:19.360
pin connectors or it might be one of those new fangled NVIDIA 12 pin or ATX

01:39:16.880 --> 01:39:22.599
12vt high power connectors in which case you'll need to grab the adapter bundled

01:39:21.040 --> 01:39:26.400
with your GPU if your power supply doesn't have one in the box just be

01:39:24.840 --> 01:39:30.800
careful when you're identifying those 12volt high power connectors some can

01:39:29.040 --> 01:39:35.760
handle more wattage than others and the labels can be small and hard to read if

01:39:33.360 --> 01:39:40.159
you're still not sure well there's still that adapter to convert your older style

01:39:37.400 --> 01:39:42.920
cables in your gpus box speaking of it's worth noting that these daisy chain

01:39:41.480 --> 01:39:48.520
connectors and six plus two pin connectors aren't inherently evil but

01:39:46.520 --> 01:39:52.400
it's preferred to use individual cables with actual dedicated conductors for

01:39:50.280 --> 01:39:55.480
each pin if possible once you're satisfied with your choice

01:39:53.880 --> 01:39:59.560
clip them into place making sure they're fully seated and Route the cable

01:39:57.360 --> 01:40:03.239
somewhere accessible for now it's time to install the PSU itself if you've got

01:40:01.679 --> 01:40:07.760
a back plate go ahead and attach it to your power supply Now using coar

01:40:04.760 --> 01:40:09.119
threaded 632 screws most of these back

01:40:07.760 --> 01:40:12.840
plates are going to have enough clearance to put in all four screws but

01:40:11.360 --> 01:40:17.360
if your switch gets in the way for example don't stress you can put in

01:40:14.840 --> 01:40:21.000
three screws it's going to be okay once it's secure feed the wires through the

01:40:19.080 --> 01:40:24.400
power supply mount on your case and Slide the power supply into position

01:40:23.000 --> 01:40:28.119
it's a at this point that you'll want to connect your 12volt CPU cables to your

01:40:26.320 --> 01:40:32.800
power supply if you've got a modular unit next if you've got a back plate all

01:40:31.159 --> 01:40:36.639
you need to do now is tighten the thumb screws but if you're raw dogging it this

01:40:35.159 --> 01:40:40.719
is where you'll screw the power supply into the back of your case pay attention

01:40:39.280 --> 01:40:45.320
to which of the mounting holes on the case have screw threading from the power

01:40:42.880 --> 01:40:48.719
supply behind them though it is very easy to make the mistake of accidentally

01:40:47.320 --> 01:40:52.920
screwing into one of the honeycomb shaped holes that are for ventilation on

01:40:50.520 --> 01:40:56.400
the back of the power supply that is not actually

01:40:54.000 --> 01:41:00.800
secure if you don't have a modular power supply handling the 12vt CPU cables will

01:40:59.040 --> 01:41:05.119
be a little trickier at this stage but if you got small hands or a high pain

01:41:02.840 --> 01:41:08.520
threshold you can make it work line up the tabs and click them into place make

01:41:07.199 --> 01:41:13.639
sure that they're in there before moving on by the way because if you really can't get in there there is no shame in

01:41:11.800 --> 01:41:16.960
pulling off your CPU heat SN temporarily now and putting it back on when you're

01:41:15.080 --> 01:41:21.360
done at this point the instructions are the same between modular and non-modular

01:41:19.040 --> 01:41:25.480
power supplies it's time for your 24 pin ATX connector separate that cable from

01:41:23.800 --> 01:41:30.760
the others and fish the cable out through the nearest Cable Management hole to your motherboard's 24 pin

01:41:28.480 --> 01:41:34.760
connector from here it's just like before line up the tabs and press it in

01:41:32.880 --> 01:41:38.360
until it clicks with that done you can use the peripheral cables to wire up

01:41:36.400 --> 01:41:42.000
power to any drives or fan controllers you have installed in your system

01:41:40.159 --> 01:41:45.280
usually these have just enough spacing between the connectors to line up neatly

01:41:43.719 --> 01:41:49.000
with hard drive stacked in a bay like this plugging these power cables in is

01:41:47.440 --> 01:41:52.840
the same as plugging in the SATA data cable just line up the little l-shape

01:41:51.119 --> 01:41:56.119
and press it into place these ones usually don't have locking connectors

01:41:54.639 --> 01:41:59.480
though so make sure it's on straight before moving on this will also tell you

01:41:58.000 --> 01:42:03.159
if you've accidentally half connected it upside down which is a thing that you

01:42:01.360 --> 01:42:06.360
can do even today you'll need to occasionally install these Molex

01:42:04.760 --> 01:42:10.440
connectors instead of SATA power connectors and they're a bit of a pain

01:42:08.599 --> 01:42:14.159
because of how big they are but on the bright side they're really difficult to

01:42:12.280 --> 01:42:18.360
install wrong you can also use them for just 12 Vols and 5 volts to connect up

01:42:16.679 --> 01:42:23.040
to your project if you really want to they have a beveled Edge on one side and

01:42:20.760 --> 01:42:27.880
they fit quite snugly so much so that the sometimes push the pins out of

01:42:25.199 --> 01:42:32.480
things like fan adapters this happens slip the pin back into place it should

01:42:29.840 --> 01:42:37.040
just clip in there then try again just be patient and line it up correctly

01:42:34.800 --> 01:42:42.320
finally your power supply might have come with a button like this one this is

01:42:39.440 --> 01:42:46.159
usually for hybrid fan control in the O position the fan will only power up

01:42:44.360 --> 01:42:51.040
while load or heat levels are high enough while in the in position the fan

01:42:49.000 --> 01:42:55.119
will just always be on there's little reason to have it in the in position

01:42:53.400 --> 01:43:00.159
unless you're counting on your PSU contributing as a case fan so just leave

01:42:57.960 --> 01:43:03.639
it out for lower nose levels but wait did I say finally there's still

01:43:01.880 --> 01:43:08.880
something we haven't plugged in yet the GPU if you're lucky enough to have one

01:43:06.320 --> 01:43:13.760
that is prices are still on the moon as of early 2024 but if you follow our

01:43:11.639 --> 01:43:18.199
guide for buying one used even if you have a skinny wallet you should be able

01:43:15.520 --> 01:43:22.480
to get something decent first you need to figure out which slot you should use

01:43:20.520 --> 01:43:27.360
for ITX motherboards this going to be obvious

01:43:23.679 --> 01:43:29.880
the slot the one you get but things get

01:43:27.360 --> 01:43:33.480
a little murkier the larger you go as a rule of thumb the top most slot is

01:43:31.760 --> 01:43:37.159
usually the best it's almost always connected directly to the CPU for

01:43:35.119 --> 01:43:40.480
maximum bandwidth and you'll often see this pointed out in your motherboard's

01:43:38.320 --> 01:43:43.880
manual as well once you've determined the right slot you'll need to remove the

01:43:42.000 --> 01:43:47.800
corresponding slot covers usually by simply removing the screws that hold

01:43:45.360 --> 01:43:54.520
them in place but on some cheaper cases you'll need to break them off instead

01:43:49.599 --> 01:43:56.480
and if if so be care full it's simple

01:43:54.520 --> 01:43:59.560
enough to do you can push it down with a screwdriver and then finish the job with

01:43:58.280 --> 01:44:07.480
your fingers but if you're too aggressive you could slip and when it finally snaps off that's a bad

01:44:03.719 --> 01:44:09.679
time um I've gotten bit by cheap cases

01:44:07.480 --> 01:44:15.080
before and uh it it it there was there was a mess

01:44:12.199 --> 01:44:20.320
for a while be patient and just use a gentle up and down motion don't twists

01:44:17.719 --> 01:44:23.520
push or pull it'll come free before long just just fatigue the metal and it'll

01:44:21.679 --> 01:44:27.520
just come right off now the the covers are gone make sure the tab at the end of

01:44:25.440 --> 01:44:30.639
the slot is pushed back if there is one then line up the card with the slot and

01:44:28.960 --> 01:44:34.000
press it in it should slide in relatively easily and the clip at the

01:44:32.400 --> 01:44:37.440
back will snap shut once it's all the way in next line up the GPU's bracket

01:44:36.119 --> 01:44:40.920
with the holes on the case that used to hold in those slot covers and use the

01:44:39.159 --> 01:44:44.440
screws you either removed previously or retrieved from your accessories bundle

01:44:42.480 --> 01:44:48.719
to secure it into place a coar threaded 632 screw is usually the right one for

01:44:46.360 --> 01:44:52.679
the job here if you're not too sure but some cases are a little bit different if

01:44:50.960 --> 01:44:56.520
you have a multi-lot GPU and you find yourself with only one screw for some

01:44:54.679 --> 01:45:01.840
reason put it on any other slot than the top one for best results you still have

01:44:59.119 --> 01:45:05.040
all your screws though right by the way this is the GPU section but what you

01:45:03.400 --> 01:45:10.159
just did should work with any PCI Express expansion card unlike most cards

01:45:07.760 --> 01:45:14.199
some big gpus might sag a bit even after you've secured them into place and some

01:45:11.960 --> 01:45:18.280
cards even come with adjustable anti-ag brackets or spacers that you can sit on

01:45:16.199 --> 01:45:21.560
the bottom of your chassi this isn't strictly necessary but it just keeps

01:45:19.920 --> 01:45:26.400
everything looking nice and reduces the risk that something will break if you move your PC just slip it into place and

01:45:24.960 --> 01:45:31.119
Slide the bracket up until it's holding your GPU at the right height then tighten it so it stays there other

01:45:29.560 --> 01:45:34.840
Solutions may involve drilling into your case or some cases even include a sag

01:45:33.280 --> 01:45:38.080
bracket on their own now it's time to run power to your GPU we already

01:45:36.560 --> 01:45:41.239
determined which cables we need and how many when we install their power supply

01:45:39.800 --> 01:45:46.199
so grab those and Route them through the appropriate Cable Management hole according to your preference some people

01:45:44.320 --> 01:45:49.000
like to come in from behind the GPU and others like the cables coming straight

01:45:47.360 --> 01:45:51.960
up from the basement like me whichever you choose you should make sure you have

01:45:50.360 --> 01:45:55.400
enough slack to get them into position and that it's clear of all other cables

01:45:53.599 --> 01:45:59.560
to simplify your cable management just like with the 12volt CPU connectors PCI

01:45:57.599 --> 01:46:03.440
Express connectors are keyed to only go one way although a six pin cable can be

01:46:01.920 --> 01:46:07.159
inserted to an 8 pin connector if you're not careful this won't harm anything but

01:46:05.560 --> 01:46:09.800
the GPU will probably complain and prevent you from booting if you try

01:46:08.599 --> 01:46:15.320
regardless of how many pins you're looking at select the matching cable line up the tabs and click them into

01:46:13.119 --> 01:46:19.679
place again make sure they're fully seated once you're done especially if

01:46:17.440 --> 01:46:23.639
you're using the ATX 12volt high power connector it's often quite stiff so you

01:46:22.080 --> 01:46:28.599
might be tempted to to bend it so it's not sticking out so far but please do

01:46:26.159 --> 01:46:32.000
not let it curve if your power supply cables are 6 plus2 like this and you

01:46:30.480 --> 01:46:35.880
need to make it go into an 8 Pin receptacle just make sure the two pieces

01:46:34.320 --> 01:46:40.360
are coupled together so the pins are flush and the separate two pin connector

01:46:38.440 --> 01:46:43.800
can't move once it's plugged in it's no good if they're only partway installed

01:46:42.400 --> 01:46:48.400
congratulations you've just finished building your PC except you haven't

01:46:45.960 --> 01:46:51.320
really finished not quite yet if you've been following the guide up till now you

01:46:49.920 --> 01:46:56.080
should have reasonably well-managed cables but they're all going be kind of

01:46:53.599 --> 01:47:00.480
loose and not very tidy on most modern cases you should have at the very least

01:46:58.360 --> 01:47:04.080
little Hoops to slip cable ties through to provide a solid anchor for the cables

01:47:02.239 --> 01:47:07.880
that are running around your case you can use single-use zip ties to bundle

01:47:06.000 --> 01:47:12.440
cables together more tightly and for cables that route together like the

01:47:09.440 --> 01:47:15.360
12volt CPU and PCIe cables you might

01:47:12.440 --> 01:47:20.000
want to do so to keep them neat but you also might want to use reusable hook and

01:47:17.760 --> 01:47:24.880
loop ties for the main runs which can both add a modern look and be a godsend

01:47:22.679 --> 01:47:29.440
if you ever need to add or move any cables in the future take it from me if

01:47:27.320 --> 01:47:33.239
you have to snip a zip tie you're probably not going to replace it and

01:47:31.199 --> 01:47:37.239
you'll end up just undoing all the hard work you've done today the platonic

01:47:35.320 --> 01:47:42.159
ideal of cable management is a single trunk of cables where little branches

01:47:40.159 --> 01:47:46.880
come off and go wherever they need to go with no overlap unfortunately cables are

01:47:45.040 --> 01:47:50.280
finite in length so unless you pre-measured and picked up some custom

01:47:48.480 --> 01:47:54.040
length cable mod cables or something you'll almost always have to improvise

01:47:52.400 --> 01:47:59.000
we've actually got a full video on cable management that you can go check out here but for now let's get to

01:48:01.199 --> 01:48:07.679
tidying troubleshooting is a whole other kettle of fish but here are some quick

01:48:06.159 --> 01:48:11.440
things that you can do if you don't get any output and you're sure that the

01:48:09.440 --> 01:48:16.679
power supply and the outlet it's plugged into are both switched on check all your

01:48:14.440 --> 01:48:20.760
cables first these are the most likely culprits then check your RAM and your

01:48:19.280 --> 01:48:23.960
expansion slots to make sure that they are properly seated if your PC is

01:48:22.480 --> 01:48:27.760
powering on but you're not getting any display make sure you've plugged your

01:48:25.480 --> 01:48:31.560
monitor into your graphics card rather than into your motherboard directly you

01:48:29.760 --> 01:48:35.320
can also check the diagnostic LEDs on your motherboard ASUS has a little stop

01:48:33.760 --> 01:48:40.400
light that goes along with this where red means CPU orange means memory white

01:48:37.920 --> 01:48:43.159
means GPU and green means good others might have LEDs that light up for each

01:48:42.000 --> 01:48:48.679
section of the motherboard that's been initialized as well you just might have to look them up in your motherboard's

01:48:46.119 --> 01:48:54.639
manual to figure out exactly which codes and which numbers and letters correspond

01:48:50.800 --> 01:48:56.760
to what one of the codes is 0 if you get

01:48:54.639 --> 01:49:01.080
this one you should try reting your CPU and firing it up again if your system

01:48:58.800 --> 01:49:04.920
simply isn't powering on but is getting power you might have a short this is an

01:49:03.239 --> 01:49:09.080
annoying problem to diagnose but the most common culprit is an extra standoff

01:49:07.320 --> 01:49:13.760
between the motherboard tray and the back of the motherboard or some errant

01:49:11.800 --> 01:49:17.280
piece of metallic something sitting bridging two pins if you're still having

01:49:15.520 --> 01:49:21.599
trouble you can always hit up the Linus tips.com Forum to get more help now that

01:49:19.599 --> 01:49:25.800
you've got the ufi bio setup screen the very first things you should do do in

01:49:23.199 --> 01:49:29.239
order are check your CPU temperatures check that all your RAM is showing up

01:49:27.639 --> 01:49:33.320
and check that your storage is showing up if all of that looks good then you

01:49:31.119 --> 01:49:38.119
can continue on otherwise you'll need to power down and resat your cooler memory

01:49:36.159 --> 01:49:42.040
or storage devices until they all show up one unintuitive thing is sometimes

01:49:40.599 --> 01:49:46.080
you might have some memory that's not showing up and it's actually caused by

01:49:43.960 --> 01:49:51.880
your CPU not being seated in the socket correctly so you might have to resat

01:49:48.119 --> 01:49:54.639
that and with that your PC is now built

01:49:51.880 --> 01:50:00.040
whoa hang on your RAM's not running at the right speed what's up with that time

01:49:57.360 --> 01:50:04.000
to adjust some common settings first to fix your RAM speed you'll want to enable

01:50:01.960 --> 01:50:08.360
XMP or Expo which are memory overclocking features for Intel and AMD

01:50:06.480 --> 01:50:12.199
respectively this will automatically adjust the frequency the timings and the

01:50:10.360 --> 01:50:15.599
voltage to what's on the package rather than you know the defaults and it's

01:50:13.880 --> 01:50:19.480
almost certainly what you want unless you're running ECC memory or even if you

01:50:17.880 --> 01:50:23.679
are on an overclockable workstation platform like Threadripper 7000 it

01:50:21.639 --> 01:50:29.040
should be noted though that because this is technically overclocking it can be

01:50:26.920 --> 01:50:31.760
unstable that's why some prefer to keep it disabled until they have the

01:50:30.400 --> 01:50:37.920
operating system installed and they're sure the rest of their PC is working correctly that's a pretty good idea just

01:50:36.239 --> 01:50:41.920
remember to come back and do it later or you could be leaving some performance on

01:50:39.480 --> 01:50:45.560
the table speaking of you'll also want to check the status of the multi-core

01:50:43.400 --> 01:50:49.079
enhancement setting usually this is an advanced option if it's even present on

01:50:47.320 --> 01:50:52.159
your motherboard at all there are a bunch of different names for it so here

01:50:50.800 --> 01:50:55.920
are some of the common ones found in boards from from major vendors

01:50:54.079 --> 01:50:59.520
regardless of the name it tweaks or removes your CPU's limits so it can

01:50:57.599 --> 01:51:04.119
turbo more aggressively and for far longer than it normally would improving

01:51:01.440 --> 01:51:08.840
performance at the cost of extra heat and vice versa stock operation is with

01:51:06.880 --> 01:51:12.639
this setting disabled of course but if you have a beefy cooler you might want

01:51:10.960 --> 01:51:16.040
to use it to get a little more oomph out of your Hardware most other settings can

01:51:14.360 --> 01:51:20.199
be left at their defaults although if you're installing Windows 11 you should

01:51:17.960 --> 01:51:25.520
make sure to enable the TPM and secure boot modules and disable the

01:51:22.639 --> 01:51:29.000
compatibility support module or CSM exactly how to do that varies by vendors

01:51:27.520 --> 01:51:33.400
so check your motherboard's manual to be sure another option that began with the

01:51:30.639 --> 01:51:39.440
Radeon 6000 series from AMD and the RTX 3000 Series from NVIDIA is resizable bar

01:51:37.320 --> 01:51:44.199
also known as smart access memory or rebar the simple explanation is that

01:51:41.840 --> 01:51:48.920
normally your CPU can only access a small portion of your GPU's memory at

01:51:46.079 --> 01:51:54.480
once traditionally just like 256 Megs at a time to access multiple gigabytes of

01:51:51.119 --> 01:51:56.440
vram that 250 6eg window is simply moved

01:51:54.480 --> 01:52:00.840
around as needed if different parts of memory need to be accessed at the same

01:51:58.440 --> 01:52:04.360
time however the system has to wait for one access to finish before the window

01:52:02.560 --> 01:52:08.719
can move to the next one this delay can slow down your GPU and in extreme cases

01:52:07.159 --> 01:52:13.960
can cause significant performance degradation resizable bar lets the CPU

01:52:10.880 --> 01:52:16.480
access all the vram without that moving

01:52:13.960 --> 01:52:23.199
window so there's no extra downtime as games have grown in scale and complexity

01:52:18.599 --> 01:52:24.800
is gone from heat to necessary to enable

01:52:23.199 --> 01:52:30.000
it you'll first need to make sure that the compatibility support module from

01:52:26.560 --> 01:52:33.719
before is disabled then enable above 4G

01:52:30.000 --> 01:52:35.320
decoding and resizable bar as usual the

01:52:33.719 --> 01:52:39.159
exact location of these settings depends on your motherboard's BIOS so check the

01:52:37.360 --> 01:52:43.880
manual if you can't find it some older boards might need a BIOS update for it

01:52:41.199 --> 01:52:47.960
to work but most released since 2021 can do it and some newer boards might even

01:52:45.560 --> 01:52:52.840
ship with it on by default it's worth noting that there are occasions where

01:52:50.360 --> 01:52:57.599
turning on resizable bar can reduce use performance but thankfully this is a

01:52:55.159 --> 01:53:02.079
relatively rare experience and graphic drivers are beginning to handle them on

01:52:59.400 --> 01:53:06.040
a caseby Case basis our recommendation therefore is to keep it enabled unless

01:53:03.719 --> 01:53:09.239
you encounter any problems and just make sure that you keep your graphics driver

01:53:07.920 --> 01:53:13.040
up to date after you install your operating system finally your operating

01:53:11.320 --> 01:53:17.520
systems installer should automatically boot after inserting the flash drive but

01:53:15.440 --> 01:53:21.960
if it doesn't you can usually hit f8 or F12 on the first boot screen to bring up

01:53:19.840 --> 01:53:25.599
a boot menu and select it that way if it's still doesn't show up there go back

01:53:23.880 --> 01:53:29.719
into the UEFI settings and make sure that the Legacy USB devices setting is

01:53:27.520 --> 01:53:33.320
enabled you shouldn't have to enable this under normal circumstances but

01:53:31.679 --> 01:53:37.360
sometimes having it disabled is enough to disable USB storage altogether most

01:53:35.760 --> 01:53:43.040
operating systems should just boot at this point now your PC is built and it's

01:53:40.400 --> 01:53:45.920
all thanks to our sponsor seic if you need a power supply just head down to

01:53:44.719 --> 01:53:52.119
the description and click the link it's that simple at this point we've made it pretty clear why we've worked for cic

01:53:49.800 --> 01:53:54.960
for as long as we have we've used many of their different power supplies in our

01:53:53.360 --> 01:53:58.679
builds over the years both for personal use as well as computers you've seen on

01:53:56.960 --> 01:54:02.159
the channel they've been a great partner to work with and we're happy to have

01:54:00.199 --> 01:54:05.679
them back as a sponsor for our updated build guide seriously go show them some

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love if you care about reliability and build quality click the link below

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they've been running sales and promos more regularly so you may even save some

01:54:11.639 --> 01:54:19.040
money on your shiny new PSU if the time is right huge thanks to them for

01:54:16.599 --> 01:54:23.119
sponsoring this update we literally took the longest video we've ever made and

01:54:21.040 --> 01:54:26.840
made it 20 minutes long woohoo thanks to you for watching if

01:54:25.320 --> 01:54:31.679
you're looking for something else like this to watch you absolute mad lad then

01:54:29.599 --> 01:54:36.079
maybe check out our companion video on how to set up your PC now that you're

01:54:33.800 --> 01:54:39.679
done the build again let us know if there's anything we missed down below

01:54:37.599 --> 01:54:42.480
and maybe we'll get to it in the next one

01:54:45.840 --> 01:54:50.639
2026 you're rolling right y sick
