WEBVTT

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things have changed over the past few years and whether you or i like it or

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not the market has become even more saturated with RGB goodness there's

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everything from cables to

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anti-sag brackets and putting together a pc that both works and looks blingtastic

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can be very challenging fortunately we're here to help with our ultimate RGB

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build guide 2021 edition crucial has been making high quality ramen ssds for

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over 20 years and with their crucial system scanner tool finding the perfect

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parts for your system is now easier than ever check out crucial at the link down

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below

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step one pre-build safety we start with the usual tools

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and of course a clean and clear table you need a table to build a computer and

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this is not cleaning clear one moment

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there we go we've done this off camera already but i strongly recommend hooking

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up everything outside

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we've done this off camera already but i strongly recommend hooking everything up

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outside the case to ensure that you haven't gotten any defective parts i

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mean especially when you're dealing with RGB it can be a total pain to find some

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random light strip that just doesn't work after you carefully cable to manage

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everything step two

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motherboard like last time we've gone with ASUS because aura sync offers a good balance

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between low background CPU utilization and ease of use and we chose the z590

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maximus 13 hero mostly for its three addressable RGB headers since we'll need

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plenty of those to power and control our lighting set it on top of the box like

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so for a makeshift static safe workspace and try not to think too hard about how

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much you spent on a motherboard when you could have gotten the same performance

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out of a mid-range model step 3 CPU for our CPU we went with a

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core i9 10850k in here

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so at the time of filming availability of AMD's 5000 series was still spotty

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and Intel's 11th gen processor is just

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uh how do i put this uh we decided not to use one so

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just pull the latch and lift up exposing the CPU socket

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from here there are actually a couple of different ways to make sure you're oriented correctly most of you probably

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use the little golden triangle but on Intel you can also match the two

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circular notches up here with the round bumps in the socket

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place the CPU down gently give it a little wiggle to make sure everything is seated

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close the latch and gonna have to put a little bit more pressure than you might

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expect to do so there we go

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and off pops the socket cover make sure you keep that in case you need to ARM in

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your board or something or even just like sell it later because it keeps the

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pins safe and shipping but you know what you don't need to keep safe and shipping

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our stealth pins t-shirt from lttstore.com get yours today step four

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memory is there an RGB module out there that

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looks better than g skills tried nz RGB line

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you can let us know in the comments but we didn't think so they're fast they're

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flashy and with four eight gigabytes well actually these are 16 Gigabyte

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sticks we found out at 3200 megahertz you'll have more than enough for modern

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games all at a reasonable price just match the center notch on the module

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with the one on the slot to orient it then line it up

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and push it into place making sure you hear distinct click

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on each side to confirm it seated properly refer to your motherboard

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manual if you're using fewer modules or if you have more slots to ensure they go

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into the right ones it's usually a2 and b2 for dual channel but you never know

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when someone's going to think different step 5 the case

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the infinity window in our last RGB build guide was cool but we wanted

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something that keeps our system thermals under control while also showing off the

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RGB power supply that we'll be installing later the p500a digital from

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fantax ticks all these boxes it's built-in

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lighting and fans are easy to hook into the rest of our system and the light strip along the side looks just plain

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cool it's a great choice if you're on a bit of a budget but still want to show

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off pop off the tempered glass panel and remove the case accessories box

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it's held in there by a nice little strap

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how thoughtful it's big actually that's a bigger accessory kit than i would have

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thought our i o shield is built into the board but if yours isn't make sure you

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install it now it cannot be done later now we'll check that the standoffs are

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in the right positions and place our motherboard on top and screw in the nine screws here here here here here here

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here here and oh uh

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wait where's our last mount point

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some motherboards have coolers or armor plates that cover them

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while it's okay to simply leave those screws out sometimes it's really important to flip the board over and

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verify that there's an actual hole there because if there isn't you need to

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remove that standoff from the case to prevent the back of the board from being

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damaged

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now is also the best time to plug in all of your front panel connectors since it

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will only get more difficult to access them as you install more components

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thankfully for the fantax p500a there's only one front panel connector you need

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to worry about and that is the power switch that plugs into the top right of

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this bank of pins here after that we need to worry about our

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power and our fans so let's start with the power

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we have two eight pin power connectors at the top here now we probably don't

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need all of that right now but it's good to have it all plugged in just so we

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have just just just cuz

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it is by far much easier to do it now than after we have the radiator

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installed so let's go ahead and do it we just line up the tabs here

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and click them in unfortunately these cables do not click

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together so might have to do one at a time

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for easier insertion but once we've done that we can just

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pull it out through the back holes there and we are good for power at least for

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the cpu8 pin front panel audio is pretty simple there's a notch in the top right

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quadrant of it that makes it so you can't really unless you

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really try and mash it plug it in the wrong way for the front three pins we

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have a fan splitter and we're going to plug all of those into the one header

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down at the bottom of the motherboard for our extra rear fan which we're going

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to install separately we have this CPU optional connector up here that kind of

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ties it to the CPU cooler so this whole area as it heats up should

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get a little bit more exhaust as necessary next we have usb 3. the

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standard usb 3.0 connector on this motherboard is at a right angle so

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that's perfect for cable management you just line it up with a notch

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and slip it in be careful they like to break i know this

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ask me how i know this the much better connector is the usb 3.1 gen 2 connector

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or the type c connector that plugs into the motherboard just like this although

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unfortunately every motherboard i've seen so far has had them coming straight

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up out of the middle like this which is less than ideal the final connection

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we're going to make for now is the addressable RGB connection that's a

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three pin five volt cable and we have a

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three-way splitter coming off of it for now directly plugged into the splitter

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is this arctic cooling fan that we just installed and we'll also be plugging in these

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three fans in the front that are daisy chained together and the fans for our liquid cooler one

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thing to note about these connections though is that they are really loose

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uh they tend to wobble a lot even when

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they're fully plugged in i would recommend some electrical tape

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or something to kind of hold them together when you connect these daisy chained or

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split connections like this step six storage while there are RGB

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ssds out there with all the m.2 slots covered by motherboard armor we felt it

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was okay to go for something a little bit more practical severance rocket q 2

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terabyte is only pci express gen 3 but then so is our CPU and it offers a

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strong mix of performance capacity and price if you do have a gen 4 capable system

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and drive be sure to consult your motherboard manual to find the appropriate gen 4 slot and always

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populate slots to go directly to the CPU before ones that are routed through the

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motherboard chipset remove the heatsink if there is one and

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if there's no pre-installed standoff now is the time to fish that out of your

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motherboard box and screw it in then just line up the notches shimmy the

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drive in push it down onto the standoff and screw it down with one of these

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teeny tiny m.2 screws in some cases the

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heatsink might hold it in place so you can skip that step and put the armor

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back on if you have a motherboard that's like that step 7 CPU cooler we went with

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MSI's mag core liquid 360r by the way if you want to see the new rk 360 version

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make sure to get subscribed so you don't miss out on our upcoming the only pc you

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can buy build it's going to be pretty good the 10850k

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gets hot but a 360 millimeter rad like this should be enough to keep the heat

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dissipated since we're using an Intel processor we'll need the mounting

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bracket and back plate that look like this and the mounting hardware that

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looks like this if you're trying to find the right stuff your cooler manual

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should say something like lga 115x or 1150 1151 but lga 1200 uses the same

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system if you have a newer processor like this now we're going to mount our fans we're

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going to use these bionx p120s from arctic these are kind of similar to lee

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lee's unifans and that you can daisy chain them together without extra wiring

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which is super cool you just need to add this little bridge connector if they're going to be next to each other like on

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our 360 millimeter aor radiator add the power cable to the side that makes the

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most sense for your wiring situation for hours we're going to put it on the side

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opposite of the soft tubing because the power plug gets in the way and then you

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just add your bridge connectors screw your fans in the red with the long

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radiator screws like so then screw the whole thing into the top

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of the case with the short radiator screws like so

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Linus asked me to point out that push fan configurations like this one can be

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a nightmare to clean i told him the theme of the builds RGB not allergy safe

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so too bad actually i have a fix for that

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benadryl now for the CPU block MSI system

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kind of sucks but bear with me we'll begin by installing our Intel bracket

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then we run these bolts to the CPU back plate add one set of washers put all

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four bolts through the motherboard being sure that the screw ends of the CPU

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socket backplate don't interfere with our cooler backplate

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i told you this sucks next add four spacers like this and

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position the CPU block like so making sure not to accidentally knock the bolts

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out as you do it's a little tricky but you are almost there finally attach your

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block ensuring first there's no plastic over the pre-applied thermal paste by

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tightening the four spring-loaded thumbnuts step eight

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power supply like our motherboard we went a bit

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overkill on the power supply but we did it for the RGB to be clear the ASUS rog

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thor 1200 watt platinum is a really good unit but at 320 dollars for a cool

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little screen it shows how much wattage it's using and RGB lighting on the side

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is probably not the best use of your stimulus check to wire it up we'll start

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by removing the mounting bracket on the back screwing it onto the back of our power supply with these screws and

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pulling through the dual 8-pin CPU connectors we cable managed earlier then

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we add our 24-pin motherboard connector two 8-pin pci express connectors for our

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graphics card one SATA cable and this

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little RGB wire look at it it's it's so

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tiny but oh so essential

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from here we'll slide in the rest of the power supply right side up so the

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display can be seen through the window and screw it into the back of the case

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done deal step 9 GPU

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these days more and more manufacturers are including plenty of RGB on their

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gpus and ASUS strix cards are no

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exception maybe that's why they're selling out like the RGB appeal has

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become too strong for everyone to resist right we felt like our counterculture Intel pc

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wouldn't be complete without an AMD graphics card and went for a Radeon rx

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6800 thankfully all the RGB is powered and

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controlled through the standard 8-pin power connectors and the pci express

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slot take out the pci express slot covers that would otherwise be in the way line

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the connector up with the slot then push it firmly into place until you see the

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lock at the back latch on now just replace the thumb screws that

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were holding in the pci express slot covers and you're good to go

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step 10 the all-important lighting

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to add extra lighting to our machine we're using another fantex product their

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digital RGB neon led kit this thing looks awesome the light diffusion on it

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is great and you can arrange the strips pretty easily with the included clips

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and vhp tape they're plenty bright and connect with a standard 3 pin 5 volt

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argb header like seriously if you can get these instead of your standard led

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strip with all the exposed invisible leds do it they're more expensive at

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roughly twenty dollars per script but they look a lot better now the way

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they're going to lay these out is this 500 millimeter one we're going to wrap

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around the motherboard and then the two-piece combo set here we're going to

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use to light up the pci express slots our next bit of lighting kit released

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shortly after our first RGB build guide so they're a few years old now but

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streamer cables from lee lee were still an obvious choice for updated rig

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they're overkill they add a bunch of cabling to manage but like look at them

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go aren't they beautiful simply attach them to the end of your

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pci express and atx power cables like any extension and plug them into their

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designated headers connect them to their controller and plug the controller into

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an argb header they're pretty stiff so it's not always going to be easy getting

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them into place but once you do they look amazing now unless you're daisy

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chaining everything together chances are you're going to have issues getting the exact sequence right for your lighting

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that's where a little box like this comes in this is

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from cooler master and it has clearly indicated argb header addresses here so

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we have a1 a2 a3 a4 all we need to do is make sure that we

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line those up with exactly how we want everything to look on the case

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and we should have everything all in one go once we have everything lined up then we

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can just plug it directly into an argb header on the motherboard

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no extra software or anything required it'll work as though it's all daisy

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chained our final piece of internal lighting is this RGB GPU anti-sag

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bracket from cooler master yes it's entirely unnecessary but isn't that kind

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of what this whole build is about attach the right plastic clip depending on

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where you want to place it either this guy if you're putting it somewhere in

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the middle of the case or this one if you're putting it on the end then stake

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the RGB connector through the most accessible cutout based on where you want it and use the magnet to stick it

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in place slide the clip up to the GPU then lock it trust me it's going to look

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awesome when it's turned on step 11

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11 cable management exactly as difficult

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as holding up 11 fingers with this RGB laden build

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we have plenty of devices but only three argb headers the streamer cables add

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more cable length to deal with and we've already got a mess on our hands thanks

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to our controller hubs that can go into either an addressable RGB or usb header

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if you decide to do the sensible thing and save a buck on your motherboard two

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things will help immensely here labeling and planning ahead we have a santa

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powered argb hub for the power hungry lights and a four-way argb splitter for

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the devices that need less juice the powered hub is going to get the streamer

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cables front fans light strips and CPU block light on the splitter we're

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putting the anti-sag bracket rear fan and radiator fans our third and final

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header gets the tiny two pin power supply cable this will work for us

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because we're not designing any custom patterns or anything and the p500a

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digital's front fans arrived wired together we can still easily change each

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component to our heart's content we made a simple wiring diagram to help keep

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things sorted strapped down our non-RGB wiring to keep it out of the way then

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plugged everything in keeping runs clean and controllers out of the way is the

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real challenge so feel free to use plenty of zip ties and cable ties for

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the controllers double-sided tape works best but you can sometimes manage to

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either tuck them out of the way or place them into the provided case straps once

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everything is done this part is entirely optional but you will save yourself a

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lot of potential future headache if you take the time now to label everything or

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at least label major sections of cables if you're a monster you can grab some of

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those twist tie labels you can find in grocery stores near the bulk bins just

00:16:23.279 --> 00:16:30.880
write what it is and twist tie it to your run do you steal

00:16:27.519 --> 00:16:32.399
labels from the grocery store

00:16:30.880 --> 00:16:36.880
now that everything's tied it up with paid for cable ties from lttstore.com we

00:16:35.440 --> 00:16:43.040
can take a moment to appreciate the solid cable management potential of the p 500 day digital before it's time for

00:16:40.240 --> 00:16:43.040
the moment of truth

00:16:43.680 --> 00:16:48.720
delayed reaction it's actually kind of amazing how the

00:16:46.959 --> 00:16:53.279
color is more or less matched with everything usually RGB stuff is like uh

00:16:51.440 --> 00:16:56.800
this is red but this is also red and this is red and there's like three

00:16:54.560 --> 00:17:00.000
different reds and it's like i asked for exactly the same red

00:16:58.240 --> 00:17:03.839
step 12 peripherals

00:17:01.600 --> 00:17:10.079
for outside the case and on the desk we went almost exclusively with Corsair a

00:17:06.160 --> 00:17:12.079
pair of lt-100s for flair an st-100

00:17:10.079 --> 00:17:18.400
stand for a place to rest our virtuoso RGB wireless headset and an mm700 RGB

00:17:16.319 --> 00:17:21.839
desk pad this gives us a total of two RGB control applications that need to be

00:17:20.079 --> 00:17:26.079
installed on our pc which is what i would say

00:17:23.919 --> 00:17:28.799
if i have been able to resist this

00:17:27.439 --> 00:17:35.679
mars back m1 keyboard the frosted acrylic looks so good

00:17:33.919 --> 00:17:38.880
and the acrylic pudding caps are gorgeous

00:17:36.960 --> 00:17:42.240
the gamer's nexus video investigating the CPU usage of various RGB

00:17:40.720 --> 00:17:46.960
applications found that the more you have the more the overhead piles up

00:17:44.799 --> 00:17:52.480
but look at this thing that brings us to step 13 software now

00:17:50.000 --> 00:17:57.520
there are two RGB programs that can control all of these devices open RGB

00:17:55.440 --> 00:18:01.520
and jacknet however some devices are just too new to work so

00:17:59.919 --> 00:18:06.400
we're limited to the official stuff for now because we went strictly with the 3 pin

00:18:04.240 --> 00:18:10.240
5 volt argb headers syncing our lighting is actually pretty easy our motherboard

00:18:08.480 --> 00:18:14.080
is ASUS so we'll get armory crate installed then it should find all of our

00:18:12.080 --> 00:18:18.160
devices automatically letting us choose from any of the stock animations or

00:18:15.840 --> 00:18:22.400
design our own with the aura creator and then we can spend all of our time

00:18:20.080 --> 00:18:27.200
gazing at our finished creation rather than you know actually playing games

00:18:24.960 --> 00:18:30.720
like some kind of loser for our Corsair desktop peripherals iq is the way to go

00:18:29.520 --> 00:18:36.559
and you know once it's all configured

00:18:34.400 --> 00:18:39.840
i kind of hate to admit how cool everything like especially these light

00:18:38.240 --> 00:18:48.240
towers can look like they do nothing but they look so good

00:18:56.240 --> 00:19:02.640
beautiful just beautiful

00:19:00.880 --> 00:19:07.360
but what did it cost going with the RGB version of any given

00:19:04.640 --> 00:19:12.480
hardware typically adds 10 to 20 dollars not too bad but the streamer cables are

00:19:10.000 --> 00:19:18.559
about 45 bucks a pop the GPU support bracket is 60

00:19:15.679 --> 00:19:24.000
we used two light kits and four fans at 20 bucks each so that's 120

00:19:22.000 --> 00:19:27.039
the Corsair light towers are a hundred and thirty dollars for the starter kit

00:19:25.280 --> 00:19:31.039
which does include two but then the headphone stand is another seventy

00:19:28.640 --> 00:19:36.160
dollars the desk pad is sixty dollars and the keyboard is 180 if you get the

00:19:33.280 --> 00:19:39.400
kickstarter early bird special or 199 if you don't

00:19:40.320 --> 00:19:46.400
that is about 500 without the keyboard

00:19:44.720 --> 00:19:49.280
for pretty lights is it worth it

00:19:48.240 --> 00:19:53.440
no but we won't judge

00:19:51.280 --> 00:19:57.120
much just like we won't judge you for

00:19:54.960 --> 00:20:00.400
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they're lightweight and breathable but the dual climate knit material keeps your feet warm during winter and cool

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during the summer the style fits almost any occasion and some of us are wearing

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them right now also they're 100 vegan

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there you have it the 2021 RGB build guide

00:20:22.160 --> 00:20:29.120
do you love RGB or hate it let us know in the comments and check out our

00:20:26.559 --> 00:20:32.480
ultimate RGB guide from 2017 if you plan on going with Corsair parts instead we

00:20:31.039 --> 00:20:35.520
wanted to avoid their proprietary connectors and controllers this time

00:20:34.559 --> 00:20:39.120
and it wasn't exactly easy