WEBVTT

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Welcome to our next better system build guide. Now, a better system involves

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parts that still deliver great value for the dollar without going over the top

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just for bling, but also means that we're not really skimping on anything.

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So, our target budget for this system was $2,000. Now, in our last build

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guide, we went with a straight gaming build. So, we didn't really spend extra

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money on anything unless it gave us more cooling or more gaming performance in

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some way. This system is going to be more about well-rounded overall

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performance. So, it's still going to be a rocking gaming machine featuring the

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Intel Core i7 4770K unlocked processor.

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We're still going to overclock it, but maybe not quite to the same extent. And

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it also features because it has hyperthreading, because it's got lots of

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RAM, and because we're using silence optimized components, a very quiet

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workstation like element to it as well. So, it's going to be the silent machine

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that's suitable for gaming as well as light workstation use such as HD video

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editing. Now, we're going to show you how to build step by micro step exactly

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the system we have in front of us, but many of these principles will be able to

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be applied to other systems as well. So, we'd love for you to come back and

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reference this video when you're building your own system. With that in

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mind, we've made some menu navigation. So you can go to the main menu up on

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your top right and you can navigate between chapters on the bottom right

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allowing you to skip in between the parts that you find most interesting.

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Now it should be noted we're using annotations to make that functionality

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work. So if you're watching on a mobile device you may not be able to access

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that functionality. If you switch over to a desktop that'll work just fine for

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you. Now without any further ado, let's get started with our better

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gaming/lightworkstation build optimized for silence. Now with our better class

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of system sort of nomenclature in mind, we did give ourselves a bigger budget

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this time around because we were trying to do a couple of more specialized

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things. That is to make the machine great for not only gaming but also light

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workstation use as well as make it quieter. So with that in mind, for our

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CPU, we went with the 4770K. This is a

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Core i7 processor, meaning it has hyperthreading technology. So, while it

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doesn't really offer much tangible performance benefit over a top tier Core

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i5 like a 4670K in gaming applications,

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the 4770K will deliver a significant performance improvement in things like

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video editing or 3D work to justify its

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additional cost. Now, the

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i74770K is an LG150 processor, meaning that it is

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compatible only with LG150 motherboards.

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So, we went with a saber-tooth D87 board. This supports all the

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overclocking features of the chip as well as other Intel technology such as

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smart response technology with SSD caching and all that good stuff. And it

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also has some ASUS exclusive features as well. It's got their thermal armor,

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which is a dust coating that goes over top of the entire board and even you can

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have little pieces to cover up the slots, allowing you to keep the board

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operating in pristine condition for the extent of its lifetime. It has their

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thermal radar 2 technology, which allows you to quickly and easily diagnose

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hotspots on the board as well as monitor the board, make sure your entire system

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temperatures are good. It has their fan expert 2 technology allowing you to

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control all the fans in your system and keep everything nice and cool and

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optimized. You guys noticing a theme here. And it also looks fantastic. And

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since we're using a windowed case, that is an advantage. Last and certainly not

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least, the reason we went with a saber-tooth tough series board for our

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workstation e better gaming build is the

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fact that it uses tough components and comes with a 5year warranty. ASUS

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supports this board for 5 years. That's industryleading, meaning that if you're

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buying something that you want to really work for a long time, a tough series

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board like a Saber-Tooth is never a bad option. The one thing you may recognize

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from our last better build guide is these Corsair Vengeance DDR3 modules. We

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didn't change our memory configuration cuz I still feel that a 2x8 gig DDR3600

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kit is pretty much the best bang for your buck. It does a number of things.

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It gives you upgradability options for the future, meaning you can move to up

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to 32 gigs without any difficulty, without taking these out and tossing

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them in the bin. And it gives you definitely more memory than you need for

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any modern game, as well as probably enough memory for your light workstation

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load. However, if you're doing a lot of Da Vinci Resolve or, you know, After

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Effects rendering or whatever else, then you may want to right from the get- go

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step up and get two of these kits for a total of 32 gigs. Now, our budget gave

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us a ton of options in terms of graphics cards. We could go with an entry-level

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Quadro. We could go with a dual GPU solution with fairly high-end cards. We

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could go with a very high-end single card solution such as a GTX 780. That's

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the route that we ended up going. And

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the reason we did that is because a single GPU solution still delivers the

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best performance regardless of micro stuttering or SLI profiles in any game.

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It also runs extremely quietly, runs cool, and it's going to offer great CUDA

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performance for applications such as Adobe Premiere or Da Vinci Resolve. Now,

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why we might go with some of those other options? Dual GTX 660Ti would have been

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better for gaming performance, but would have added heat output, power

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consumption, as well as a little bit of inconsistency in terms of the

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performance. And I usually prefer a stronger single card to two weaker ones

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whenever possible. We could have gone with an entry-level quadro. And

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honestly, if I was going to take advantage of the 10-bit color output or

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if I was going to take advantage to some of the CAD applications that can be

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accelerated by a Quadro, then I might go that route instead. But that won't offer

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a satisfying gaming experience like a GeForce card will. Now, we could also

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pony up and spend more and get a GTX Titan, but that contributes nothing to

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the gaming experience and is more useful for someone like a CUDA developer that

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needs the double precision floating point capabilities of a GTX Titan that

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are cut down significantly on the 780. Last but not least, if we were leaning

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more towards the gaming side and we were willing to wait for Adobe to upgrade

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their suite to support Open CL with all the features, or if we didn't need some

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of the CUDA only features right now, you could go with a Radeon graphics card

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such as a 7970 GHz edition. And you'd also get some free games to go along

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with it with their never settle bundle. And we're going to make the most

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exciting video ever about storage.

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All right, storage isn't that sexy, but we've got an Intel 520 series SSD. This

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is their highest performing consumer grade SSD, and we went with that because

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again, we had a slightly bigger budget. We also up the capacity. We've got 240

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gigs. Now, that gives us flexibility. We can either install a ton of apps and

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games on it or we can segment 60 gigs of it to use as a cache to accelerate our

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mechanical drive. Now, this is where it's going to come down to personal

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choice. We went with a three terbyte WD

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green drive and the reason for that is that with its low power consumption and

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quiet operation. It was a good fit for our build here. However, if you wanted

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to use a dedicated scratch disc or if you needed more storage for large video

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editing projects, you might end up with an internal RAID array for example and

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then an individual dedicated scratch disc rather than going with this single

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green drive solution. So, the options are totally out there. But remember

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guys, green isn't like it was before where you were getting great power

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consumption and low noise at the cost of performance, particularly in sustained

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performance. They're right up there with many 7200 RPM drives now. So, you don't

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have to make that trade-off. And that's why we went this

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route. Whoa. Excuse me. Now, I've talked

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a lot about the silence optimized aspects of the system, but I haven't

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shown you how we're doing it yet. It starts with the power supply. A loud

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power supply is difficult to deal with because you can't just swap out the fan

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without special training or pretty serious danger. So, we've gone with a

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CIC G series. CIC has a legendary

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reputation for building quiet as well as high performance power supplies. In

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fact, many of the power supplies you see in the market with other brand names on

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them are actually manufactured by CIC. This one is 80 plus gold, meaning we

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don't have to remove as much heat from the inefficiency of the power

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conversion. It is also semi-odular, meaning that we don't have to have

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unnecessary cables jumbling up the case, so we don't have to have our case fans

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spinning louder. It uses a single strong 12volt rail, meaning you don't have to

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worry about what plugs into where. And last but not least, it has a 5year

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warranty to go along with that 5year warranty on your motherboard. Now, those

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two components that fail most often over time, the motherboard as well as the

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power supply, have 5-year warranties in this system. Now, it's only a 550 W

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power supply, but I'm going to show you guys what the power consumption of the

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system looks like when you're done. And I think you're going to be pretty impressed at the way it handles it, even

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though NVIDIA recommends a 600 watt

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power supply for a GTX 780based system.

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Next up, we've got a Dark Rock 2 CPU cooler. It looks great. It's quiet. It

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runs cool. No complaints about it whatsoever. We decided to go air cooling

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with this build rather than liquid cooling. We showed you liquid cooling last time, so we're going to shake

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things up. Finally, we've got the Fractal Design Define R4. This is the

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black windowed version, but it's available in different colors or without

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a window if you prefer. It is again silence optimized with acoustic

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dampening materials as well as it has the ability to provide ample air flow

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with ventilation in the front and it gives you the option to remove some of

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the silence optimized material and add more fans with their modu vent

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technology should you so desire. Not

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only that, but it looks fantastic. Oh, my case is gone. I guess

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that means we're going to talk about peripherals now. We're going to start with the Razer Death Adder 2013. I think

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it's a fantastic value, even though it's a little bit of a higherend mouse. So,

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while the peripherals don't fit into my $2,000 budget, the goal here was to pick

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peripherals that I thought were appropriate for someone spending two

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grand on their tower. And the Death Adder 2013 has great heritage. The Death

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Adder is extremely well regarded, but it's got some tweaks. A higher

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sensitivity optical sensor, making it great for gaming without any

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acceleration issues. It's got tweaked ergonomics as well as rubberized grips

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that make it feel great and I just like it. So, there you go. Next up, we've got

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the Filco Magistouch Ninja. We've got a Cherry MX Brown full-sized keyboard.

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This gives a good balance between a typing experience and gaming experience.

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I personally love Cherry MX Brown key switches, and it looks fantastic and

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very professional with the key caps printed on the front rather than on the

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top. That also means that the printing will last forever because it won't wear

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off with your fingers. For our mouse pad, we've gone with the Steel Series

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QCK because regardless of budget, I use it for everything. I love this mouse

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pad. Just just get one. Even if you're not building this system, don't worry

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about it. Now, let's talk about the peripherals that you don't generally touch. We went with the Custom One Pros

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from Bayer Dynamic for our headphones. These are closed, making them great for

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going off to your own little world, whether it's work or play. They sound

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fantastic. They have an adjustable bass port, meaning you can decide, okay, I

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want a ton of bass for this music or not as much for another one, which is

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actually very, very cool. And last but not least, they are incredibly

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comfortable. These are the personal headphone of choice for Slick right now.

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The one drawback being they don't have a built-in microphone, so you will need a

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standalone microphone. For our monitor, this is what I expect to be a bit of a

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contested topic. Now, many gamers will opt instead for fast response TN panels

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because those are going to give you less motion blur as well as less input lag

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when you're gaming. Now, Slick and I discussed it at length and we decided to

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go with a PA248. This is a ProArt series from ASUS because we prefer the vibrant,

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rich colors and better viewing angle to the faster response time for our gaming

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enjoyment. With that said, neither of us are pro gamers. So, what's the advantage

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of this monitor? It's 1920 x 1200 instead of 1080, giving you a little bit

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more vertical resolution. It comes pre-calibrated, meaning those colors are

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going to be accurate right out of the box. And honestly, having gamed on this

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monitor a fair bit, I don't notice any particular input lag. I don't notice any

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particular ghosting even compared to TN panels. So, I'd say for the price, given

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that the 248 isn't that much more expensive than a TN panel, especially a

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gaming grade one, I would go with this option. But of course, the choice is

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yours. And now it is step by

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step. I got kind of far away from the mic there. Time to build this PC. So,

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we're going to start with our usual procedure where we install the

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components. We assemble them together before putting them in the case to make

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sure that everything is working a okay

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before we make more work for ourselves when we're trying to swap things in and

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out and they're inside a chassis. The motherboard box makes a fantastic test

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bench. Before we get started, here's everything you need. A nice anti-static

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place to work. I don't recommend working on carpet if you can avoid it. We are

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actually using a Modmat Extreme from ModRate, which is a nice rubberized

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surface, so we're not going to damage anything. It's not going to slip off away from us and it's anti-static. I

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recommend using an anti-static wrist strap that you then attach the other end

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to either a grounded out power supply or similar or to a grounded wall outlet.

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And finally, you'll need a standard Phillips head screwdriver. First up,

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once we've got our motherboard on our well makeshift anti-static test

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platform, is to install the CPU. The only things you need from the CPU box

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are the processor itself and the stock heat sink, which we're only going to use

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to make sure that the system's working outside of the case. Step one is to lift

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up the retention ARM. There shouldn't be too much force that you need to apply.

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Once it's out of the way, you can actually lift up the entire hold down

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plate. Next up, align the golden

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triangle on the corner of the CPU with the triangle or dot on the CPU socket.

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There should also be two indentations. The CPU only fits in one way. Never

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force it. The socket is very fragile. Give it a little wiggle to make

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sure it's in the right spot. Lower the cover plate and then

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bring down the retention ARM. There should be a little bit of force required

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this time. You'll have to swing it out a little bit wide and then hook it

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underneath the hold down clip. And what you'll notice is that protective

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covering over the pins in the CPU socket now pops off completely on its own and

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your CPU is installed. Installing the stock heatsink is a snap. Well, four

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snaps, actually. It has thermal compound pre-applied, so you don't have to worry

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about that. Just make sure that you have enough slack on the four pin CPU fan

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connector to reach the header on your motherboard. I'm going to plug that in.

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There we go. Then apply pressure in a diagonal fashion to the four hold down

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pins until you hear them snap into place.

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Installing RAM is easy as pie. 3.14 that

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is. I usually recommend using the two slots that are furthest away from the

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CPU socket. And then all you have to do is make sure that you align the notch in

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the bottom of the RAM with the notch in the socket. In this particular

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motherboard, you can see only one side has a retention clip. So, put that side

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in. Put the side with no retention clip in first. Then press down firmly until

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the clip goes into place. Rinse and

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repeat. Please don't rinse your memory.

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Now it's time to move on to the case. So, we're going to open up the side

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panels, both side panels, because we're going to need access to the back of it

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for all of our cable management. Keep your screws somewhere safe. I recommend

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keeping them in a small dish, such as the one that I of course have readily

00:16:52.480 --> 00:16:59.279
available right here. thumb screws go in there and put your side panels somewhere

00:16:57.199 --> 00:17:03.360
safe. The last thing you want to do is trip over them or something like that

00:17:01.279 --> 00:17:06.880
and scratch them or dent them before you even have a chance to put together your

00:17:05.199 --> 00:17:10.959
computer. I recommend putting them in the box that they came in with the

00:17:08.559 --> 00:17:15.919
packing foam in between. This is an optional step, but I like to do it. So,

00:17:13.039 --> 00:17:20.400
you take the box or baggie or whatever the accessories for your case comes in,

00:17:18.559 --> 00:17:24.240
open it up, and dump them all out. Make sure they're all there. This particular

00:17:22.319 --> 00:17:27.520
case comes with a little inventory on the back of the box that tells you

00:17:25.520 --> 00:17:31.840
exactly what should be inside. Then you take all those pieces and dump them in

00:17:30.240 --> 00:17:35.039
your tray. That way you know where everything is when you're looking for it

00:17:33.600 --> 00:17:39.520
and you don't have to be fumbling around. The next thing to install is the

00:17:37.520 --> 00:17:42.960
IO shield. You're going to regret it if you forget this one, so I recommend

00:17:40.960 --> 00:17:47.200
doing it first. All you have to do is take it out of the motherboard box,

00:17:45.200 --> 00:17:50.160
position it at the back of the case. Sometimes there's a placeholder there.

00:17:48.799 --> 00:17:53.600
Don't worry, you're not supposed to use that. just take it out. On this case, we

00:17:51.840 --> 00:17:59.039
don't have that, though. And then press on all four corners firmly until you

00:17:56.080 --> 00:17:59.039
hear them snap into

00:17:59.799 --> 00:18:05.760
place. Next, we're going to prepare the case to have the motherboard inside it.

00:18:03.520 --> 00:18:10.000
Fractal includes a little adapter from Phillips head to the hex pieces that are

00:18:08.240 --> 00:18:15.200
the motherboard standoffs that you're going to screw into the tray. They also

00:18:11.919 --> 00:18:18.400
clearly label with an A for ATX and an M

00:18:15.200 --> 00:18:20.320
for MATX or shorter motherboards where

00:18:18.400 --> 00:18:23.960
you need to put in the standoffs. We're going to put in nine standoffs in all

00:18:22.240 --> 00:18:28.559
the ones marked A. Next, the motherboard goes into the

00:18:26.799 --> 00:18:33.480
case. I'd really recommend laying your case flat before doing this.

00:18:33.679 --> 00:18:39.200
Then what you do is you position the IO

00:18:37.360 --> 00:18:44.799
on the back of the motherboard with the IO in the back of the IO panel which you

00:18:42.000 --> 00:18:48.799
just installed. Slide it into place very carefully without scraping the back of

00:18:47.120 --> 00:18:52.640
the motherboard against the motherboard standoffs that you also just installed.

00:18:50.880 --> 00:18:56.240
I recommend holding the motherboard by the CPU heat sink, that stock heatsink

00:18:54.640 --> 00:19:00.240
that we're going to take off, in order to prevent touching sensitive parts on

00:18:58.480 --> 00:19:05.440
the motherboard or putting undue strain on other parts of it. Once it's in

00:19:02.440 --> 00:19:07.679
position, put in at least one screw so

00:19:05.440 --> 00:19:11.120
that it holds in place. Then put in the other eight screws and your

00:19:08.799 --> 00:19:14.320
motherboard's installed. Now we're ready to get that stock CPU cooler out of

00:19:13.120 --> 00:19:17.919
there and replace it with our aftermarket one. Now, the reason we put

00:19:16.320 --> 00:19:21.360
the stock one in in the first place was just in case we had some weird clearance

00:19:19.679 --> 00:19:26.080
issues while we were trying to install things in the system. We didn't want to,

00:19:24.400 --> 00:19:30.000
you know, have to take an aftermarket one back off because it can be a little

00:19:27.679 --> 00:19:34.720
bit more difficult than the plastic push pins that are used on the stock one. So,

00:19:32.080 --> 00:19:39.039
I've pulled that off. Now, boop. Now, all we got to do is install our

00:19:36.640 --> 00:19:43.559
aftermarket one after, of course, cleaning off the CPU. So, use 99%

00:19:41.919 --> 00:19:49.200
isopropyl alcohol, wet a piece of toilet

00:19:46.760 --> 00:19:53.360
paper, clean off the bulk of the thermal compound, then follow up with a lintfree

00:19:51.679 --> 00:19:57.280
cloth. That's going to allow you to make sure that there's no residue left on the

00:19:55.080 --> 00:20:00.559
CPU. Next up, you're going to put some thermal compound on. Your cooler is

00:19:58.880 --> 00:20:05.760
going to come with thermal compound. Put on about the same amount as uh about a

00:20:03.840 --> 00:20:10.880
cooked grain of rice is what I would go for for a modern

00:20:08.440 --> 00:20:14.799
CPU. Now, we need to make a decision about how we're going to orient the heat

00:20:12.559 --> 00:20:19.280
sink in our case. Now, if we had top exhaust, we might consider mounting the

00:20:16.960 --> 00:20:23.280
heat sink horizontally like this so we could take advantage of it. But we left

00:20:21.200 --> 00:20:26.640
the module vents in, which means we don't have top exhaust. So, we're going

00:20:25.120 --> 00:20:31.120
to opt to position our heat sink vertically like this. Then, when we

00:20:29.120 --> 00:20:35.200
install our fan afterwards, we're going to install it pushing air towards the

00:20:33.280 --> 00:20:40.799
back of the case, pulling air through the heat sink so that we're leveraging

00:20:37.039 --> 00:20:42.400
that rear 140 mm exhaust. Now, to

00:20:40.799 --> 00:20:45.360
install it, you want to make sure that you have enough clearance around your

00:20:43.840 --> 00:20:49.840
RAM for the side that you're going to have your fan on. If we had the fan on

00:20:47.440 --> 00:20:53.039
this side, say for example, like this, we wouldn't have room with this

00:20:51.120 --> 00:20:57.039
high-profile RAM. So, something you might want to consider is going for a

00:20:54.720 --> 00:21:00.960
lowprofile Vengeance RAM kit rather than a high-profile one like this if you're

00:20:59.200 --> 00:21:03.840
going to use an air cooling heat sink. Instead, what we're going to do is we're

00:21:02.400 --> 00:21:09.440
just going to turn it around. So, our fan is going to be right next to our exhaust fan right here on the heat sink.

00:21:07.679 --> 00:21:14.240
The good news is that mounting this be quiet! Dark Rock 2 is quite simple. All

00:21:11.520 --> 00:21:17.679
you do is position the heat sink. Then you can actually squeeze the back plate

00:21:16.159 --> 00:21:24.000
under the thermal armor on the saber-tooth, which is kind of neat because it holds it in place and screw

00:21:21.760 --> 00:21:27.919
the four screws in from the back. Then all that's left to do is mount the fan

00:21:26.159 --> 00:21:32.880
to the heat sink using the included clips. Plug the CPU fan connector into

00:21:30.880 --> 00:21:37.919
the header on your motherboard and you're done. Your heatsink is now

00:21:35.960 --> 00:21:42.240
mounted. Next, we're going to install the power supply. So, you have the

00:21:40.240 --> 00:21:46.400
option of either having the fan on the bottom of the power supply or on the

00:21:44.320 --> 00:21:49.919
top, but we're going to go with the fan pointing down this time around. This

00:21:48.159 --> 00:21:54.640
case does have a filtered intake down there, so you don't have to worry about it getting completely clogged up with

00:21:52.720 --> 00:21:59.039
dust. But the main reason that we're going this route versus the other way

00:21:56.320 --> 00:22:02.159
around is that it looks like our cables are going to have a little bit of

00:22:00.080 --> 00:22:06.400
trouble reaching the very top where our eight pin CPU connector is unless we

00:22:04.480 --> 00:22:10.880
install it this way. Because the fixed cables on this power supply, the 24 pin

00:22:08.480 --> 00:22:16.400
and the 8 pin are going to be over on your right hand side, my left, if I

00:22:13.840 --> 00:22:20.559
install it with the fan down. To attach the power supply to the case, we simply

00:22:18.720 --> 00:22:24.039
use the four screws that come in their own little baggie that are threaded

00:22:22.320 --> 00:22:29.360
correctly for the back of the power supply. So now it's time to start

00:22:26.240 --> 00:22:30.720
running some of the connectors. So we're

00:22:29.360 --> 00:22:35.840
going to start with the 24 pin connector. This provides most of the power to your motherboard. We get to go

00:22:34.080 --> 00:22:39.919
through that nice cable management hole down there at the bottom, through this

00:22:37.840 --> 00:22:46.000
other nice cable management hole up here at the top. Then we curve around, plug

00:22:42.799 --> 00:22:48.559
that bad boy in, and we have wired our

00:22:46.000 --> 00:22:53.039
24 pin connector in a nice, neat, tidy, clean way. Next, we've got our eight pin

00:22:51.120 --> 00:22:57.520
connector, which is also going to route behind the motherboard tray. So, it's

00:22:55.520 --> 00:23:03.440
going to go right through that bottom spot there. Then is going to come back

00:23:00.000 --> 00:23:05.440
up the There we go. top left of the

00:23:03.440 --> 00:23:09.200
motherboard tray and plug right into that eight pin connector up at the top

00:23:07.120 --> 00:23:12.720
left. This part's a little bit tricky, so if you can't get it yourself, maybe

00:23:11.039 --> 00:23:16.720
get someone with small hands to help you out with it. Now, this is the point in

00:23:15.039 --> 00:23:20.640
the build guide where it's all about social

00:23:18.039 --> 00:23:23.919
networking or making connection. Yeah, making connection connecting things.

00:23:22.400 --> 00:23:27.679
That's what I was looking for, right? Connecting things. So, we're going to

00:23:25.440 --> 00:23:33.280
start with our front panel connectors. USB 3 is a large block of a connector,

00:23:30.880 --> 00:23:36.960
usually blue, very thick, very inflexible. You want to run that as

00:23:35.039 --> 00:23:40.000
close as you can to your front USB 3 port, which in the case of this

00:23:38.400 --> 00:23:43.280
motherboard happens to be right angle, which is awesome, meaning it's going to

00:23:41.919 --> 00:23:48.559
look nice and tidy, and you don't have to have a big loop toloop. Next up,

00:23:45.679 --> 00:23:53.679
you've got front USB 2. These ones have a small missing pin, so it only goes in

00:23:51.360 --> 00:23:58.200
one way. Plug that block into any of the USB 2 headers on your motherboard.

00:23:55.679 --> 00:24:04.159
Usually, there are a couple of them. Finally, we've got front panel

00:24:01.280 --> 00:24:10.320
audio. Front panel audio usually has a couple of different options, HD and

00:24:07.559 --> 00:24:15.120
AC97. This one only has HD. That's great because it's been a long time since any

00:24:12.159 --> 00:24:20.320
motherboard required an AC97 pin out. Once again, missing one block in the

00:24:17.440 --> 00:24:24.080
pins. So, just plug that into the front panel connector. Guys, this is the point

00:24:22.240 --> 00:24:27.640
in the build where don't be shy about checking out the motherboard manual to

00:24:25.919 --> 00:24:34.400
double check where all of these things are, which leaves only the front power

00:24:30.880 --> 00:24:37.600
button, reset button, and power LED to

00:24:34.400 --> 00:24:40.159
plug in. Now, I normally show you how to

00:24:37.600 --> 00:24:44.159
plug these in directly to the board, but because I'm a bit of a purist, but there

00:24:42.159 --> 00:24:48.240
is an easier way. ASUS has what they call their Q connector, which allows you

00:24:46.080 --> 00:24:51.760
to plug them all in easily where you can see what you're doing and then take that

00:24:50.000 --> 00:24:55.600
whole block and plug it into the motherboard. I still insist on doing it

00:24:54.000 --> 00:24:59.520
the other way simply because it makes the connector slightly more low profile

00:24:57.919 --> 00:25:02.480
so there's less chance of them interfering with anything and I

00:25:01.200 --> 00:25:07.360
personally think it looks better this way. But you have either option. We've

00:25:05.200 --> 00:25:12.799
got two drives to install. One's a 2 and 1/2 in SSD. The other is a 3 and 1/2 in

00:25:10.720 --> 00:25:16.960
hard drive. We're going to opt for using the lower of the drive bays. This is

00:25:15.279 --> 00:25:22.159
just to make cable management a little bit more tidy. And to mount our SSD is

00:25:19.760 --> 00:25:26.240
very, very simple. You orient the ports towards the back of the case, the side

00:25:23.919 --> 00:25:29.520
that we're not working from. Put in at least a couple screws. Let's face it,

00:25:28.000 --> 00:25:37.200
it's a non- mechanical device. It's not like it's going to get broken if you don't put in enough screws. And

00:25:33.960 --> 00:25:39.520
then slide the cage into place. For the

00:25:37.200 --> 00:25:44.520
hard drive, the process is slightly more complicated. Retrieve the sled. We're

00:25:42.320 --> 00:25:50.720
still using the same ones. Grab the screws that have the

00:25:48.480 --> 00:25:56.080
spacer on them because there are rubber grommets in the sled positioned

00:25:52.640 --> 00:25:57.840
perfectly for 3 and 1/2 in drives. Then

00:25:56.080 --> 00:26:01.600
orient the ports towards the back of the case that we're not working on. Screw

00:25:59.760 --> 00:26:04.320
all four in securely. Remember, this is a mechanical

00:26:04.520 --> 00:26:10.320
device. And then slide the sled into the

00:26:08.240 --> 00:26:13.840
case. Those rubber grommets are going to help prevent vibrations from being

00:26:12.000 --> 00:26:17.159
passed from the drive to your case, which is going to make it operate much

00:26:16.320 --> 00:26:21.760
more quietly. Now, we've got to connect those

00:26:19.600 --> 00:26:25.279
drives that we just added to the system. This power supply is modular, though, so

00:26:23.600 --> 00:26:30.480
there's no SATA connectors attached to it. Go into the usually a little baggie

00:26:27.919 --> 00:26:35.440
or box inside your power supply box and grab a dual SATA connector. So, this

00:26:33.440 --> 00:26:39.840
will allow us with one cable harness to plug in both drives. You can plug the

00:26:37.840 --> 00:26:47.039
six pin connector into any of the outlets on the power supply itself as

00:26:42.000 --> 00:26:47.039
long as they are the same. So, six pins.

00:26:47.080 --> 00:26:53.360
Then, plug each of the SATA power connectors into the back of the

00:26:54.360 --> 00:27:00.960
drives. Once you're finished with power, grab a couple SATA data cables. These

00:26:59.520 --> 00:27:05.840
will be included in your motherboard box. I would recommend grabbing one

00:27:03.039 --> 00:27:11.440
straight one and one right angle one. Plug the other ends where they're both

00:27:08.159 --> 00:27:11.440
straight into the

00:27:13.799 --> 00:27:19.760
motherboard. Then plug the straight connector into the SSD and the right

00:27:18.080 --> 00:27:24.480
angle connector into the hard drive at the back. As we get close to the end,

00:27:22.559 --> 00:27:29.279
you guys are probably starting to notice that this is a really, really tidy

00:27:27.200 --> 00:27:34.240
looking build. You can hardly see any wires. This is what great cable

00:27:31.600 --> 00:27:37.760
management, a wellthoughtout build, and modular cables will do for you because

00:27:35.919 --> 00:27:42.080
we're only going to plug in one more modular cable harness. And this is going

00:27:39.840 --> 00:27:46.960
to allow us to get power to our fan speed controller as well as the fans

00:27:44.640 --> 00:27:51.200
that are integrated to the case. We're going to allow the ASUS motherboard to

00:27:48.960 --> 00:27:55.279
control the CPU fan because it does a really good job of that and it can be

00:27:52.799 --> 00:28:00.120
controlled from within AI Suite. So, all we need to do now is plug the modular

00:27:57.360 --> 00:28:04.159
connector into the power supply, run it through the back just

00:28:02.399 --> 00:28:09.120
like we've done with all the other ones, and we can power all of the fans in this

00:28:06.159 --> 00:28:14.080
case simply by plugging one Molex connector into the Molex lead that comes

00:28:11.760 --> 00:28:18.399
out of the front panel. Now, at the back of the case, connecting our fans is

00:28:16.159 --> 00:28:23.039
simple. We've only got two fans in the case, one at the back, one at the front.

00:28:20.880 --> 00:28:27.600
So, we take those leads and plug them into ones that are coming out of the

00:28:25.279 --> 00:28:31.440
front fan connector. So, there's one short one. I'd recommend running that

00:28:29.200 --> 00:28:35.120
one to the front. And there are two long ones. I'd recommend connecting one of

00:28:33.200 --> 00:28:38.640
those to the back. And you can use that other one for something else in the

00:28:36.640 --> 00:28:43.120
future should you desire. Maybe an additional front fan if you decide to

00:28:40.240 --> 00:28:46.880
add that. So close, guys. Time for a little bit of cable management. Now,

00:28:45.039 --> 00:28:51.919
here's a tech tip for you. A lot of your components are going to come with twist

00:28:48.720 --> 00:28:53.600
ties. I usually put those with the zip

00:28:51.919 --> 00:28:57.360
ties that came with my case because it gives me even more cable fasteners to

00:28:55.600 --> 00:29:01.120
use. Some of the zip ties can be particularly long. And these are great

00:28:59.600 --> 00:29:04.720
for when you want to take a nice big bundle of cables, take one of those

00:29:03.120 --> 00:29:10.640
little hooks that are on the back of the motherboard tray, and then tie the whole

00:29:07.760 --> 00:29:14.159
bundle together all in one place like so. Because there's so much cable

00:29:12.880 --> 00:29:18.480
management room on the back of the motherboard tray in the Define R4, you

00:29:16.399 --> 00:29:23.039
don't have to worry too much about bulky cables causing you to not be able to

00:29:20.640 --> 00:29:29.520
close up the side panel once you are done. And now it's time to put that sexy

00:29:26.159 --> 00:29:33.440
GTX 780 into your rig. So find the top

00:29:29.520 --> 00:29:37.039
PCI Express slot, PCIe16 is the long

00:29:33.440 --> 00:29:39.520
slot, and remove the next two PCI slot

00:29:37.039 --> 00:29:45.840
covers down from that. So that means removing the thumb screw, not letting

00:29:41.600 --> 00:29:48.000
the PCI bracket cover fall onto anything

00:29:45.840 --> 00:29:52.960
random because that might be bad. Okay, loosen the thumb screw. Undo it again.

00:29:49.840 --> 00:29:52.960
This time not letting it

00:29:53.240 --> 00:29:58.240
fall. That time I let the thumb screw fall. Don't worry too much about this,

00:29:56.799 --> 00:30:02.480
folks. Don't worry. We got this. We're experts here. All right. Now, you

00:30:00.640 --> 00:30:08.240
position the graphics card with the PCI Express 16X slot aligned with the PCI

00:30:04.960 --> 00:30:10.200
Express 16X slot in your motherboard.

00:30:08.240 --> 00:30:15.039
Make sure everything is lined up correctly. Press down firmly. Then all

00:30:13.039 --> 00:30:19.919
you have to do is put those two thumb screws back

00:30:17.159 --> 00:30:24.880
in. And then once you're finished with the thumb screws, in much the same

00:30:22.399 --> 00:30:32.080
fashion as you did before with your SATA drives as well as your fan controller,

00:30:28.000 --> 00:30:34.320
plug the two PCI Express connectors into

00:30:32.080 --> 00:30:39.840
your power supply. Run them up the back of the motherboard tray. bring them up

00:30:36.720 --> 00:30:42.559
to your graphics card and plug one six

00:30:39.840 --> 00:30:48.159
pin connector in. So that's with the two extra pins just left dangling and one

00:30:45.360 --> 00:30:55.000
eightpin connector in to your graphics card. Now it has all the power it needs

00:30:50.960 --> 00:30:57.840
to deliver all that juicy 3D

00:30:55.000 --> 00:31:04.000
goodness. And there you have it, guys. If that's not a gorgeous build, then I

00:31:01.279 --> 00:31:09.559
don't know what is. It goes to show you how optimized components as well as

00:31:07.760 --> 00:31:14.000
somewhat careful assembly. I mean, we weren't totally militant about the way

00:31:12.000 --> 00:31:19.039
that we did our cable management, but it goes to show you how those things

00:31:15.520 --> 00:31:21.279
together can turn into a very, very nice

00:31:19.039 --> 00:31:26.399
looking rig that you'd be proud to call your gaming machine, but not embarrassed

00:31:23.840 --> 00:31:30.159
to call your professional workstation. Now, performance. One of the most fun

00:31:28.480 --> 00:31:35.279
things about getting a new computer is comparing it to your old one and going,

00:31:32.120 --> 00:31:37.120
"Yeah, that's a lot better." So, I

00:31:35.279 --> 00:31:41.440
always like to run some rudimentary benchmarks just to see how much time I'm

00:31:39.519 --> 00:31:45.840
going to be saving. But, I guess I'm wasting some of it running the benchmarks. Don't worry too much about

00:31:43.840 --> 00:31:49.120
that because we're touting this machine not only as a gaming machine. So, you

00:31:48.000 --> 00:31:52.880
might want to run some 3D Mark benchmarks or some built-in benchmarks

00:31:51.120 --> 00:31:57.360
in some of your favorite games, but also as a workstation machine. We're going to

00:31:54.720 --> 00:32:02.640
run Cinebench, which is a free application for benchmarking, and that

00:31:59.919 --> 00:32:06.080
shows off the rendering prowess of your computer. So, we're going to run the CPU

00:32:04.080 --> 00:32:10.000
benchmark there. Not only can you evaluate how much of an improvement you

00:32:07.760 --> 00:32:13.760
got over your old system, but also how much of an improvement you got by

00:32:11.279 --> 00:32:19.360
overclocking. By turning our CPU up from 3.5 GHz, which turbos up to 3.9 with one

00:32:17.279 --> 00:32:25.200
or two cores active, all the way up to 4.4 4 GHz on all cores all the time. We

00:32:22.559 --> 00:32:29.919
were able to get more than a 25% performance improvement in Cinebench,

00:32:27.600 --> 00:32:32.960
which is going to be noticeable in the real world when you're actually working

00:32:31.360 --> 00:32:38.240
on things, which I personally think is incredibly cool. And all of that is

00:32:36.240 --> 00:32:42.000
while maintaining the silence of this machine to the point where you pretty

00:32:39.840 --> 00:32:47.200
much have to put your ear next to it in order to hear the fans. But what's

00:32:44.480 --> 00:32:52.320
performance without efficiency? Haswell offers unprecedented C states, that is

00:32:49.919 --> 00:33:00.159
lower power states for the CPU to the point where this machine with a GTX 780,

00:32:56.000 --> 00:33:03.039
that's a Titanbased GPU, so GK 110 with

00:33:00.159 --> 00:33:09.760
a Haswell 4770K, so it's got your hyperthreading, it's got your

00:33:05.039 --> 00:33:11.679
overclocking up to 4.4 GHz, idles at 55

00:33:09.760 --> 00:33:16.640
watts drawn from the wall. That means the system is actually consuming less

00:33:14.159 --> 00:33:21.039
than 50 watts once you factor in the inefficiency of the power supply

00:33:18.559 --> 00:33:25.360
converting AC to DC power. Not only that, but when we created a load

00:33:23.279 --> 00:33:31.120
scenario that was completely unrealistic running Firmark as well as Ida's CPU

00:33:28.159 --> 00:33:35.919
test, we were only able to draw a total of 465 watts from the wall. That means

00:33:34.159 --> 00:33:40.320
the actual system power consumption maxes out around 400 watts. Remember

00:33:38.159 --> 00:33:44.080
when I said that 550 watt power supply was going to be just fine in this

00:33:41.679 --> 00:33:48.640
system? There you go. I wouldn't exactly go and add another GTX 780 to it without

00:33:46.799 --> 00:33:51.760
upgrading the power supply, but you'll certainly be able to do small

00:33:49.919 --> 00:33:56.240
incremental upgrades like maybe a little bit more RAM or a couple more drives

00:33:53.679 --> 00:33:59.440
without any difficulty whatsoever. Now, all of that's fine and good. So, now

00:33:57.679 --> 00:34:03.039
we've got power and now we've got efficiency and performance and all that

00:34:01.039 --> 00:34:06.799
good stuff. But what about temperatures? Because silence optimized is all fine

00:34:05.120 --> 00:34:10.800
and great, but if it's running really hot, you're not going to be comfortable

00:34:08.399 --> 00:34:14.800
with it. Even with our overclock, check this out. Running our stress test, we're

00:34:12.560 --> 00:34:20.000
running at 63°. Now, this room's a little bit cool. So, let's say maximum

00:34:17.760 --> 00:34:25.359
70°, even if you're in quite a warm room. That is pretty darn impressive.

00:34:22.320 --> 00:34:27.599
Your Core i7 4770K is going to perform

00:34:25.359 --> 00:34:31.440
great and last for a long time with those kinds of temperatures in this kind

00:34:29.599 --> 00:34:35.960
of environment. I hope you guys have enjoyed this build guide with featuring

00:34:33.440 --> 00:34:40.079
Intel's Haswell fourth generation 4770K. Don't forget to subscribe to

00:34:38.240 --> 00:34:44.240
Effective for more unboxings, reviews, and other computer videos. And please

00:34:42.079 --> 00:34:47.440
guys, leave a comment under the video. Let us know what you'd like to see for

00:34:45.839 --> 00:34:52.359
future build guides because I can promise you more of them are coming.
