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Welcome to our next better system build guide. Now, a better system involves

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parts that still deliver great value for the dollar without going over the top

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just for bling, but also means that we're not really skimping on anything.

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So, our target budget for this system was $2,000. Now, in our last build

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guide, we went with a straight gaming build. So, we didn't really spend extra

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money on anything unless it gave us more cooling or more gaming performance in

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some way. This system is going to be more about well-rounded overall

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performance. So, it's still going to be a rocking gaming machine featuring the

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Intel Core i7 4770K unlocked processor.

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We're still going to overclock it, but maybe not quite to the same extent. And

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it also features because it has hyperthreading, because it's got lots of

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RAM, and because we're using silence optimized components, a very quiet

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workstation like element to it as well. So, it's going to be the silent machine

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that's suitable for gaming as well as light workstation use such as HD video

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editing. Now, we're going to show you how to build step by micro step exactly

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the system we have in front of us, but many of these principles will be able to

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be applied to other systems as well. So, we'd love for you to come back and

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reference this video when you're building your own system. With that in

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mind, we've made some menu navigation. So you can go to the main menu up on

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your top right and you can navigate between chapters on the bottom right

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allowing you to skip in between the parts that you find most interesting.

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Now it should be noted we're using annotations to make that functionality

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work. So if you're watching on a mobile device you may not be able to access

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that functionality. If you switch over to a desktop that'll work just fine for

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you. Now without any further ado, let's get started with our better

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gaming/lightworkstation build optimized for silence. Now with our better class

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of system sort of nomenclature in mind, we did give ourselves a bigger budget

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this time around because we were trying to do a couple of more specialized

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things. That is to make the machine great for not only gaming but also light

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workstation use as well as make it quieter. So with that in mind, for our

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CPU, we went with the 4770K. This is a

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Core i7 processor, meaning it has hyperthreading technology. So, while it

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doesn't really offer much tangible performance benefit over a top tier Core

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i5 like a 4670K in gaming applications,

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the 4770K will deliver a significant performance improvement in things like

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video editing or 3D work to justify its

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additional cost. Now, the

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i74770K is an LG150 processor, meaning that it is

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compatible only with LG150 motherboards.

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So, we went with a saber-tooth D87 board. This supports all the

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overclocking features of the chip as well as other Intel technology such as

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smart response technology with SSD caching and all that good stuff. And it

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also has some ASUS exclusive features as well. It's got their thermal armor,

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which is a dust coating that goes over top of the entire board and even you can

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have little pieces to cover up the slots, allowing you to keep the board

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operating in pristine condition for the extent of its lifetime. It has their

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thermal radar 2 technology, which allows you to quickly and easily diagnose

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hotspots on the board as well as monitor the board, make sure your entire system

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temperatures are good. It has their fan expert 2 technology allowing you to

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control all the fans in your system and keep everything nice and cool and

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optimized. You guys noticing a theme here. And it also looks fantastic. And

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since we're using a windowed case, that is an advantage. Last and certainly not

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least, the reason we went with a saber-tooth tough series board for our

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workstation e better gaming build is the

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fact that it uses tough components and comes with a 5year warranty. ASUS

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supports this board for 5 years. That's industryleading, meaning that if you're

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buying something that you want to really work for a long time, a tough series

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board like a Saber-Tooth is never a bad option. The one thing you may recognize

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from our last better build guide is these Corsair Vengeance DDR3 modules. We

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didn't change our memory configuration cuz I still feel that a 2x8 gig DDR3600

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kit is pretty much the best bang for your buck. It does a number of things.

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It gives you upgradability options for the future, meaning you can move to up

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to 32 gigs without any difficulty, without taking these out and tossing

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them in the bin. And it gives you definitely more memory than you need for

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any modern game, as well as probably enough memory for your light workstation

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load. However, if you're doing a lot of Da Vinci Resolve or, you know, After

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Effects rendering or whatever else, then you may want to right from the get- go

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step up and get two of these kits for a total of 32 gigs. Now, our budget gave

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us a ton of options in terms of graphics cards. We could go with an entry-level

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Quadro. We could go with a dual GPU solution with fairly high-end cards. We

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could go with a very high-end single card solution such as a GTX 780. That's

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the route that we ended up going. And

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the reason we did that is because a single GPU solution still delivers the

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best performance regardless of micro stuttering or SLI profiles in any game.

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It also runs extremely quietly, runs cool, and it's going to offer great CUDA

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performance for applications such as Adobe Premiere or Da Vinci Resolve. Now,

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why we might go with some of those other options? Dual GTX 660Ti would have been

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better for gaming performance, but would have added heat output, power

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consumption, as well as a little bit of inconsistency in terms of the

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performance. And I usually prefer a stronger single card to two weaker ones

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whenever possible. We could have gone with an entry-level quadro. And

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honestly, if I was going to take advantage of the 10-bit color output or

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if I was going to take advantage to some of the CAD applications that can be

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accelerated by a Quadro, then I might go that route instead. But that won't offer

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a satisfying gaming experience like a GeForce card will. Now, we could also

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pony up and spend more and get a GTX Titan, but that contributes nothing to

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the gaming experience and is more useful for someone like a CUDA developer that

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needs the double precision floating point capabilities of a GTX Titan that

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are cut down significantly on the 780. Last but not least, if we were leaning

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more towards the gaming side and we were willing to wait for Adobe to upgrade

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their suite to support Open CL with all the features, or if we didn't need some

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of the CUDA only features right now, you could go with a Radeon graphics card

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such as a 7970 GHz edition. And you'd also get some free games to go along

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with it with their never settle bundle. And we're going to make the most

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exciting video ever about storage.

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All right, storage isn't that sexy, but we've got an Intel 520 series SSD. This

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is their highest performing consumer grade SSD, and we went with that because

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again, we had a slightly bigger budget. We also up the capacity. We've got 240

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gigs. Now, that gives us flexibility. We can either install a ton of apps and

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games on it or we can segment 60 gigs of it to use as a cache to accelerate our

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mechanical drive. Now, this is where it's going to come down to personal

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choice. We went with a three terbyte WD

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green drive and the reason for that is that with its low power consumption and

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quiet operation. It was a good fit for our build here. However, if you wanted

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to use a dedicated scratch disc or if you needed more storage for large video

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editing projects, you might end up with an internal RAID array for example and

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then an individual dedicated scratch disc rather than going with this single

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green drive solution. So, the options are totally out there. But remember

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guys, green isn't like it was before where you were getting great power

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consumption and low noise at the cost of performance, particularly in sustained

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performance. They're right up there with many 7200 RPM drives now. So, you don't

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have to make that trade-off. And that's why we went this

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route. Whoa. Excuse me. Now, I've talked

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a lot about the silence optimized aspects of the system, but I haven't

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shown you how we're doing it yet. It starts with the power supply. A loud

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power supply is difficult to deal with because you can't just swap out the fan

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without special training or pretty serious danger. So, we've gone with a

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CIC G series. CIC has a legendary

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reputation for building quiet as well as high performance power supplies. In

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fact, many of the power supplies you see in the market with other brand names on

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them are actually manufactured by CIC. This one is 80 plus gold, meaning we

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don't have to remove as much heat from the inefficiency of the power

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conversion. It is also semi-odular, meaning that we don't have to have

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unnecessary cables jumbling up the case, so we don't have to have our case fans

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spinning louder. It uses a single strong 12volt rail, meaning you don't have to

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worry about what plugs into where. And last but not least, it has a 5year

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warranty to go along with that 5year warranty on your motherboard. Now, those

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two components that fail most often over time, the motherboard as well as the

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power supply, have 5-year warranties in this system. Now, it's only a 550 W

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power supply, but I'm going to show you guys what the power consumption of the

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system looks like when you're done. And I think you're going to be pretty impressed at the way it handles it, even

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though NVIDIA recommends a 600 watt

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power supply for a GTX 780based system.

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Next up, we've got a Dark Rock 2 CPU cooler. It looks great. It's quiet. It

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runs cool. No complaints about it whatsoever. We decided to go air cooling

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with this build rather than liquid cooling. We showed you liquid cooling last time, so we're going to shake

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things up. Finally, we've got the Fractal Design Define R4. This is the

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black windowed version, but it's available in different colors or without

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a window if you prefer. It is again silence optimized with acoustic

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dampening materials as well as it has the ability to provide ample air flow

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with ventilation in the front and it gives you the option to remove some of

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the silence optimized material and add more fans with their modu vent

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technology should you so desire. Not

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only that, but it looks fantastic. Oh, my case is gone. I guess

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that means we're going to talk about peripherals now. We're going to start with the Razer Death Adder 2013. I think

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it's a fantastic value, even though it's a little bit of a higherend mouse. So,

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while the peripherals don't fit into my $2,000 budget, the goal here was to pick

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peripherals that I thought were appropriate for someone spending two

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grand on their tower. And the Death Adder 2013 has great heritage. The Death

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Adder is extremely well regarded, but it's got some tweaks. A higher

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sensitivity optical sensor, making it great for gaming without any

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acceleration issues. It's got tweaked ergonomics as well as rubberized grips

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that make it feel great and I just like it. So, there you go. Next up, we've got

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the Filco Magistouch Ninja. We've got a Cherry MX Brown full-sized keyboard.

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This gives a good balance between a typing experience and gaming experience.

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I personally love Cherry MX Brown key switches, and it looks fantastic and

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very professional with the key caps printed on the front rather than on the

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top. That also means that the printing will last forever because it won't wear

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off with your fingers. For our mouse pad, we've gone with the Steel Series

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QCK because regardless of budget, I use it for everything. I love this mouse

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pad. Just just get one. Even if you're not building this system, don't worry

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about it. Now, let's talk about the peripherals that you don't generally touch. We went with the Custom One Pros

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from Bayer Dynamic for our headphones. These are closed, making them great for

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going off to your own little world, whether it's work or play. They sound

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fantastic. They have an adjustable bass port, meaning you can decide, okay, I

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want a ton of bass for this music or not as much for another one, which is

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actually very, very cool. And last but not least, they are incredibly

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comfortable. These are the personal headphone of choice for Slick right now.

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The one drawback being they don't have a built-in microphone, so you will need a

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standalone microphone. For our monitor, this is what I expect to be a bit of a

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contested topic. Now, many gamers will opt instead for fast response TN panels

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because those are going to give you less motion blur as well as less input lag

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when you're gaming. Now, Slick and I discussed it at length and we decided to

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go with a PA248. This is a ProArt series from ASUS because we prefer the vibrant,

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rich colors and better viewing angle to the faster response time for our gaming

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enjoyment. With that said, neither of us are pro gamers. So, what's the advantage

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of this monitor? It's 1920 x 1200 instead of 1080, giving you a little bit

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more vertical resolution. It comes pre-calibrated, meaning those colors are

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going to be accurate right out of the box. And honestly, having gamed on this

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monitor a fair bit, I don't notice any particular input lag. I don't notice any

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particular ghosting even compared to TN panels. So, I'd say for the price, given

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that the 248 isn't that much more expensive than a TN panel, especially a

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gaming grade one, I would go with this option. But of course, the choice is

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yours. And now it is step by

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step. I got kind of far away from the mic there. Time to build this PC. So,

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we're going to start with our usual procedure where we install the

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components. We assemble them together before putting them in the case to make

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sure that everything is working a okay

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before we make more work for ourselves when we're trying to swap things in and

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out and they're inside a chassis. The motherboard box makes a fantastic test

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bench. Before we get started, here's everything you need. A nice anti-static

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place to work. I don't recommend working on carpet if you can avoid it. We are

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actually using a Modmat Extreme from ModRate, which is a nice rubberized

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surface, so we're not going to damage anything. It's not going to slip off away from us and it's anti-static. I

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recommend using an anti-static wrist strap that you then attach the other end

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to either a grounded out power supply or similar or to a grounded wall outlet.

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And finally, you'll need a standard Phillips head screwdriver. First up,

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once we've got our motherboard on our well makeshift anti-static test

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platform, is to install the CPU. The only things you need from the CPU box

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are the processor itself and the stock heat sink, which we're only going to use

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to make sure that the system's working outside of the case. Step one is to lift

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up the retention ARM. There shouldn't be too much force that you need to apply.

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Once it's out of the way, you can actually lift up the entire hold down

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plate. Next up, align the golden

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triangle on the corner of the CPU with the triangle or dot on the CPU socket.

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There should also be two indentations. The CPU only fits in one way. Never

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force it. The socket is very fragile. Give it a little wiggle to make

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sure it's in the right spot. Lower the cover plate and then

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bring down the retention ARM. There should be a little bit of force required

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this time. You'll have to swing it out a little bit wide and then hook it

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underneath the hold down clip. And what you'll notice is that protective

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covering over the pins in the CPU socket now pops off completely on its own and

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your CPU is installed. Installing the stock heatsink is a snap. Well, four

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snaps, actually. It has thermal compound pre-applied, so you don't have to worry

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about that. Just make sure that you have enough slack on the four pin CPU fan

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connector to reach the header on your motherboard. I'm going to plug that in.

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There we go. Then apply pressure in a diagonal fashion to the four hold down

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pins until you hear them snap into place.

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Installing RAM is easy as pie. 3.14 that

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is. I usually recommend using the two slots that are furthest away from the

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CPU socket. And then all you have to do is make sure that you align the notch in

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the bottom of the RAM with the notch in the socket. In this particular

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motherboard, you can see only one side has a retention clip. So, put that side

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in. Put the side with no retention clip in first. Then press down firmly until

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the clip goes into place. Rinse and

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repeat. Please don't rinse your memory.

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Now it's time to move on to the case. So, we're going to open up the side

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panels, both side panels, because we're going to need access to the back of it

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for all of our cable management. Keep your screws somewhere safe. I recommend

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keeping them in a small dish, such as the one that I of course have readily

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available right here. thumb screws go in there and put your side panels somewhere

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safe. The last thing you want to do is trip over them or something like that

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and scratch them or dent them before you even have a chance to put together your

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computer. I recommend putting them in the box that they came in with the

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packing foam in between. This is an optional step, but I like to do it. So,

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you take the box or baggie or whatever the accessories for your case comes in,

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open it up, and dump them all out. Make sure they're all there. This particular

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case comes with a little inventory on the back of the box that tells you

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exactly what should be inside. Then you take all those pieces and dump them in

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your tray. That way you know where everything is when you're looking for it

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and you don't have to be fumbling around. The next thing to install is the

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IO shield. You're going to regret it if you forget this one, so I recommend

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doing it first. All you have to do is take it out of the motherboard box,

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position it at the back of the case. Sometimes there's a placeholder there.

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Don't worry, you're not supposed to use that. just take it out. On this case, we

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don't have that, though. And then press on all four corners firmly until you

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hear them snap into

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place. Next, we're going to prepare the case to have the motherboard inside it.

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Fractal includes a little adapter from Phillips head to the hex pieces that are

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the motherboard standoffs that you're going to screw into the tray. They also

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clearly label with an A for ATX and an M

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for MATX or shorter motherboards where

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you need to put in the standoffs. We're going to put in nine standoffs in all

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the ones marked A. Next, the motherboard goes into the

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case. I'd really recommend laying your case flat before doing this.

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Then what you do is you position the IO

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on the back of the motherboard with the IO in the back of the IO panel which you

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just installed. Slide it into place very carefully without scraping the back of

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the motherboard against the motherboard standoffs that you also just installed.

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I recommend holding the motherboard by the CPU heat sink, that stock heatsink

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that we're going to take off, in order to prevent touching sensitive parts on

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the motherboard or putting undue strain on other parts of it. Once it's in

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position, put in at least one screw so

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that it holds in place. Then put in the other eight screws and your

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motherboard's installed. Now we're ready to get that stock CPU cooler out of

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there and replace it with our aftermarket one. Now, the reason we put

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the stock one in in the first place was just in case we had some weird clearance

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issues while we were trying to install things in the system. We didn't want to,

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you know, have to take an aftermarket one back off because it can be a little

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bit more difficult than the plastic push pins that are used on the stock one. So,

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I've pulled that off. Now, boop. Now, all we got to do is install our

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aftermarket one after, of course, cleaning off the CPU. So, use 99%

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isopropyl alcohol, wet a piece of toilet

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paper, clean off the bulk of the thermal compound, then follow up with a lintfree

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cloth. That's going to allow you to make sure that there's no residue left on the

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CPU. Next up, you're going to put some thermal compound on. Your cooler is

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going to come with thermal compound. Put on about the same amount as uh about a

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cooked grain of rice is what I would go for for a modern

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00:20:08,440 --> 00:20:14,799
CPU. Now, we need to make a decision about how we're going to orient the heat

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sink in our case. Now, if we had top exhaust, we might consider mounting the

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heat sink horizontally like this so we could take advantage of it. But we left

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the module vents in, which means we don't have top exhaust. So, we're going

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to opt to position our heat sink vertically like this. Then, when we

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install our fan afterwards, we're going to install it pushing air towards the

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back of the case, pulling air through the heat sink so that we're leveraging

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00:20:37,039 --> 00:20:42,400
that rear 140 mm exhaust. Now, to

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install it, you want to make sure that you have enough clearance around your

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RAM for the side that you're going to have your fan on. If we had the fan on

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this side, say for example, like this, we wouldn't have room with this

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high-profile RAM. So, something you might want to consider is going for a

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lowprofile Vengeance RAM kit rather than a high-profile one like this if you're

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going to use an air cooling heat sink. Instead, what we're going to do is we're

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just going to turn it around. So, our fan is going to be right next to our exhaust fan right here on the heat sink.

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The good news is that mounting this be quiet! Dark Rock 2 is quite simple. All

295
00:21:11,520 --> 00:21:17,679
you do is position the heat sink. Then you can actually squeeze the back plate

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00:21:16,159 --> 00:21:24,000
under the thermal armor on the saber-tooth, which is kind of neat because it holds it in place and screw

297
00:21:21,760 --> 00:21:27,919
the four screws in from the back. Then all that's left to do is mount the fan

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to the heat sink using the included clips. Plug the CPU fan connector into

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the header on your motherboard and you're done. Your heatsink is now

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mounted. Next, we're going to install the power supply. So, you have the

301
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option of either having the fan on the bottom of the power supply or on the

302
00:21:44,320 --> 00:21:49,919
top, but we're going to go with the fan pointing down this time around. This

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00:21:48,159 --> 00:21:54,640
case does have a filtered intake down there, so you don't have to worry about it getting completely clogged up with

304
00:21:52,720 --> 00:21:59,039
dust. But the main reason that we're going this route versus the other way

305
00:21:56,320 --> 00:22:02,159
around is that it looks like our cables are going to have a little bit of

306
00:22:00,080 --> 00:22:06,400
trouble reaching the very top where our eight pin CPU connector is unless we

307
00:22:04,480 --> 00:22:10,880
install it this way. Because the fixed cables on this power supply, the 24 pin

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00:22:08,480 --> 00:22:16,400
and the 8 pin are going to be over on your right hand side, my left, if I

309
00:22:13,840 --> 00:22:20,559
install it with the fan down. To attach the power supply to the case, we simply

310
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use the four screws that come in their own little baggie that are threaded

311
00:22:22,320 --> 00:22:29,360
correctly for the back of the power supply. So now it's time to start

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running some of the connectors. So we're

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going to start with the 24 pin connector. This provides most of the power to your motherboard. We get to go

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through that nice cable management hole down there at the bottom, through this

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other nice cable management hole up here at the top. Then we curve around, plug

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that bad boy in, and we have wired our

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24 pin connector in a nice, neat, tidy, clean way. Next, we've got our eight pin

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connector, which is also going to route behind the motherboard tray. So, it's

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going to go right through that bottom spot there. Then is going to come back

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up the There we go. top left of the

321
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motherboard tray and plug right into that eight pin connector up at the top

322
00:23:07,120 --> 00:23:12,720
left. This part's a little bit tricky, so if you can't get it yourself, maybe

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get someone with small hands to help you out with it. Now, this is the point in

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the build guide where it's all about social

325
00:23:18,039 --> 00:23:23,919
networking or making connection. Yeah, making connection connecting things.

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That's what I was looking for, right? Connecting things. So, we're going to

327
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start with our front panel connectors. USB 3 is a large block of a connector,

328
00:23:30,880 --> 00:23:36,960
usually blue, very thick, very inflexible. You want to run that as

329
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close as you can to your front USB 3 port, which in the case of this

330
00:23:38,400 --> 00:23:43,280
motherboard happens to be right angle, which is awesome, meaning it's going to

331
00:23:41,919 --> 00:23:48,559
look nice and tidy, and you don't have to have a big loop toloop. Next up,

332
00:23:45,679 --> 00:23:53,679
you've got front USB 2. These ones have a small missing pin, so it only goes in

333
00:23:51,360 --> 00:23:58,200
one way. Plug that block into any of the USB 2 headers on your motherboard.

334
00:23:55,679 --> 00:24:04,159
Usually, there are a couple of them. Finally, we've got front panel

335
00:24:01,280 --> 00:24:10,320
audio. Front panel audio usually has a couple of different options, HD and

336
00:24:07,559 --> 00:24:15,120
AC97. This one only has HD. That's great because it's been a long time since any

337
00:24:12,159 --> 00:24:20,320
motherboard required an AC97 pin out. Once again, missing one block in the

338
00:24:17,440 --> 00:24:24,080
pins. So, just plug that into the front panel connector. Guys, this is the point

339
00:24:22,240 --> 00:24:27,640
in the build where don't be shy about checking out the motherboard manual to

340
00:24:25,919 --> 00:24:34,400
double check where all of these things are, which leaves only the front power

341
00:24:30,880 --> 00:24:37,600
button, reset button, and power LED to

342
00:24:34,400 --> 00:24:40,159
plug in. Now, I normally show you how to

343
00:24:37,600 --> 00:24:44,159
plug these in directly to the board, but because I'm a bit of a purist, but there

344
00:24:42,159 --> 00:24:48,240
is an easier way. ASUS has what they call their Q connector, which allows you

345
00:24:46,080 --> 00:24:51,760
to plug them all in easily where you can see what you're doing and then take that

346
00:24:50,000 --> 00:24:55,600
whole block and plug it into the motherboard. I still insist on doing it

347
00:24:54,000 --> 00:24:59,520
the other way simply because it makes the connector slightly more low profile

348
00:24:57,919 --> 00:25:02,480
so there's less chance of them interfering with anything and I

349
00:25:01,200 --> 00:25:07,360
personally think it looks better this way. But you have either option. We've

350
00:25:05,200 --> 00:25:12,799
got two drives to install. One's a 2 and 1/2 in SSD. The other is a 3 and 1/2 in

351
00:25:10,720 --> 00:25:16,960
hard drive. We're going to opt for using the lower of the drive bays. This is

352
00:25:15,279 --> 00:25:22,159
just to make cable management a little bit more tidy. And to mount our SSD is

353
00:25:19,760 --> 00:25:26,240
very, very simple. You orient the ports towards the back of the case, the side

354
00:25:23,919 --> 00:25:29,520
that we're not working from. Put in at least a couple screws. Let's face it,

355
00:25:28,000 --> 00:25:37,200
it's a non- mechanical device. It's not like it's going to get broken if you don't put in enough screws. And

356
00:25:33,960 --> 00:25:39,520
then slide the cage into place. For the

357
00:25:37,200 --> 00:25:44,520
hard drive, the process is slightly more complicated. Retrieve the sled. We're

358
00:25:42,320 --> 00:25:50,720
still using the same ones. Grab the screws that have the

359
00:25:48,480 --> 00:25:56,080
spacer on them because there are rubber grommets in the sled positioned

360
00:25:52,640 --> 00:25:57,840
perfectly for 3 and 1/2 in drives. Then

361
00:25:56,080 --> 00:26:01,600
orient the ports towards the back of the case that we're not working on. Screw

362
00:25:59,760 --> 00:26:04,320
all four in securely. Remember, this is a mechanical

363
00:26:04,520 --> 00:26:10,320
device. And then slide the sled into the

364
00:26:08,240 --> 00:26:13,840
case. Those rubber grommets are going to help prevent vibrations from being

365
00:26:12,000 --> 00:26:17,159
passed from the drive to your case, which is going to make it operate much

366
00:26:16,320 --> 00:26:21,760
more quietly. Now, we've got to connect those

367
00:26:19,600 --> 00:26:25,279
drives that we just added to the system. This power supply is modular, though, so

368
00:26:23,600 --> 00:26:30,480
there's no SATA connectors attached to it. Go into the usually a little baggie

369
00:26:27,919 --> 00:26:35,440
or box inside your power supply box and grab a dual SATA connector. So, this

370
00:26:33,440 --> 00:26:39,840
will allow us with one cable harness to plug in both drives. You can plug the

371
00:26:37,840 --> 00:26:47,039
six pin connector into any of the outlets on the power supply itself as

372
00:26:42,000 --> 00:26:47,039
long as they are the same. So, six pins.

373
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Then, plug each of the SATA power connectors into the back of the

374
00:26:54,360 --> 00:27:00,960
drives. Once you're finished with power, grab a couple SATA data cables. These

375
00:26:59,520 --> 00:27:05,840
will be included in your motherboard box. I would recommend grabbing one

376
00:27:03,039 --> 00:27:11,440
straight one and one right angle one. Plug the other ends where they're both

377
00:27:08,159 --> 00:27:11,440
straight into the

378
00:27:13,799 --> 00:27:19,760
motherboard. Then plug the straight connector into the SSD and the right

379
00:27:18,080 --> 00:27:24,480
angle connector into the hard drive at the back. As we get close to the end,

380
00:27:22,559 --> 00:27:29,279
you guys are probably starting to notice that this is a really, really tidy

381
00:27:27,200 --> 00:27:34,240
looking build. You can hardly see any wires. This is what great cable

382
00:27:31,600 --> 00:27:37,760
management, a wellthoughtout build, and modular cables will do for you because

383
00:27:35,919 --> 00:27:42,080
we're only going to plug in one more modular cable harness. And this is going

384
00:27:39,840 --> 00:27:46,960
to allow us to get power to our fan speed controller as well as the fans

385
00:27:44,640 --> 00:27:51,200
that are integrated to the case. We're going to allow the ASUS motherboard to

386
00:27:48,960 --> 00:27:55,279
control the CPU fan because it does a really good job of that and it can be

387
00:27:52,799 --> 00:28:00,120
controlled from within AI Suite. So, all we need to do now is plug the modular

388
00:27:57,360 --> 00:28:04,159
connector into the power supply, run it through the back just

389
00:28:02,399 --> 00:28:09,120
like we've done with all the other ones, and we can power all of the fans in this

390
00:28:06,159 --> 00:28:14,080
case simply by plugging one Molex connector into the Molex lead that comes

391
00:28:11,760 --> 00:28:18,399
out of the front panel. Now, at the back of the case, connecting our fans is

392
00:28:16,159 --> 00:28:23,039
simple. We've only got two fans in the case, one at the back, one at the front.

393
00:28:20,880 --> 00:28:27,600
So, we take those leads and plug them into ones that are coming out of the

394
00:28:25,279 --> 00:28:31,440
front fan connector. So, there's one short one. I'd recommend running that

395
00:28:29,200 --> 00:28:35,120
one to the front. And there are two long ones. I'd recommend connecting one of

396
00:28:33,200 --> 00:28:38,640
those to the back. And you can use that other one for something else in the

397
00:28:36,640 --> 00:28:43,120
future should you desire. Maybe an additional front fan if you decide to

398
00:28:40,240 --> 00:28:46,880
add that. So close, guys. Time for a little bit of cable management. Now,

399
00:28:45,039 --> 00:28:51,919
here's a tech tip for you. A lot of your components are going to come with twist

400
00:28:48,720 --> 00:28:53,600
ties. I usually put those with the zip

401
00:28:51,919 --> 00:28:57,360
ties that came with my case because it gives me even more cable fasteners to

402
00:28:55,600 --> 00:29:01,120
use. Some of the zip ties can be particularly long. And these are great

403
00:28:59,600 --> 00:29:04,720
for when you want to take a nice big bundle of cables, take one of those

404
00:29:03,120 --> 00:29:10,640
little hooks that are on the back of the motherboard tray, and then tie the whole

405
00:29:07,760 --> 00:29:14,159
bundle together all in one place like so. Because there's so much cable

406
00:29:12,880 --> 00:29:18,480
management room on the back of the motherboard tray in the Define R4, you

407
00:29:16,399 --> 00:29:23,039
don't have to worry too much about bulky cables causing you to not be able to

408
00:29:20,640 --> 00:29:29,520
close up the side panel once you are done. And now it's time to put that sexy

409
00:29:26,159 --> 00:29:33,440
GTX 780 into your rig. So find the top

410
00:29:29,520 --> 00:29:37,039
PCI Express slot, PCIe16 is the long

411
00:29:33,440 --> 00:29:39,520
slot, and remove the next two PCI slot

412
00:29:37,039 --> 00:29:45,840
covers down from that. So that means removing the thumb screw, not letting

413
00:29:41,600 --> 00:29:48,000
the PCI bracket cover fall onto anything

414
00:29:45,840 --> 00:29:52,960
random because that might be bad. Okay, loosen the thumb screw. Undo it again.

415
00:29:49,840 --> 00:29:52,960
This time not letting it

416
00:29:53,240 --> 00:29:58,240
fall. That time I let the thumb screw fall. Don't worry too much about this,

417
00:29:56,799 --> 00:30:02,480
folks. Don't worry. We got this. We're experts here. All right. Now, you

418
00:30:00,640 --> 00:30:08,240
position the graphics card with the PCI Express 16X slot aligned with the PCI

419
00:30:04,960 --> 00:30:10,200
Express 16X slot in your motherboard.

420
00:30:08,240 --> 00:30:15,039
Make sure everything is lined up correctly. Press down firmly. Then all

421
00:30:13,039 --> 00:30:19,919
you have to do is put those two thumb screws back

422
00:30:17,159 --> 00:30:24,880
in. And then once you're finished with the thumb screws, in much the same

423
00:30:22,399 --> 00:30:32,080
fashion as you did before with your SATA drives as well as your fan controller,

424
00:30:28,000 --> 00:30:34,320
plug the two PCI Express connectors into

425
00:30:32,080 --> 00:30:39,840
your power supply. Run them up the back of the motherboard tray. bring them up

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to your graphics card and plug one six

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pin connector in. So that's with the two extra pins just left dangling and one

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eightpin connector in to your graphics card. Now it has all the power it needs

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to deliver all that juicy 3D

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goodness. And there you have it, guys. If that's not a gorgeous build, then I

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don't know what is. It goes to show you how optimized components as well as

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somewhat careful assembly. I mean, we weren't totally militant about the way

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that we did our cable management, but it goes to show you how those things

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together can turn into a very, very nice

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00:31:19,039 --> 00:31:26,399
looking rig that you'd be proud to call your gaming machine, but not embarrassed

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to call your professional workstation. Now, performance. One of the most fun

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00:31:28,480 --> 00:31:35,279
things about getting a new computer is comparing it to your old one and going,

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"Yeah, that's a lot better." So, I

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00:31:35,279 --> 00:31:41,440
always like to run some rudimentary benchmarks just to see how much time I'm

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going to be saving. But, I guess I'm wasting some of it running the benchmarks. Don't worry too much about

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that because we're touting this machine not only as a gaming machine. So, you

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might want to run some 3D Mark benchmarks or some built-in benchmarks

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in some of your favorite games, but also as a workstation machine. We're going to

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run Cinebench, which is a free application for benchmarking, and that

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00:31:59,919 --> 00:32:06,080
shows off the rendering prowess of your computer. So, we're going to run the CPU

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00:32:04,080 --> 00:32:10,000
benchmark there. Not only can you evaluate how much of an improvement you

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got over your old system, but also how much of an improvement you got by

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00:32:11,279 --> 00:32:19,360
overclocking. By turning our CPU up from 3.5 GHz, which turbos up to 3.9 with one

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00:32:17,279 --> 00:32:25,200
or two cores active, all the way up to 4.4 4 GHz on all cores all the time. We

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were able to get more than a 25% performance improvement in Cinebench,

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which is going to be noticeable in the real world when you're actually working

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00:32:31,360 --> 00:32:38,240
on things, which I personally think is incredibly cool. And all of that is

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while maintaining the silence of this machine to the point where you pretty

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00:32:39,840 --> 00:32:47,200
much have to put your ear next to it in order to hear the fans. But what's

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performance without efficiency? Haswell offers unprecedented C states, that is

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00:32:49,919 --> 00:33:00,159
lower power states for the CPU to the point where this machine with a GTX 780,

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00:32:56,000 --> 00:33:03,039
that's a Titanbased GPU, so GK 110 with

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a Haswell 4770K, so it's got your hyperthreading, it's got your

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00:33:05,039 --> 00:33:11,679
overclocking up to 4.4 GHz, idles at 55

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watts drawn from the wall. That means the system is actually consuming less

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than 50 watts once you factor in the inefficiency of the power supply

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00:33:18,559 --> 00:33:25,360
converting AC to DC power. Not only that, but when we created a load

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00:33:23,279 --> 00:33:31,120
scenario that was completely unrealistic running Firmark as well as Ida's CPU

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00:33:28,159 --> 00:33:35,919
test, we were only able to draw a total of 465 watts from the wall. That means

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the actual system power consumption maxes out around 400 watts. Remember

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00:33:38,159 --> 00:33:44,080
when I said that 550 watt power supply was going to be just fine in this

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00:33:41,679 --> 00:33:48,640
system? There you go. I wouldn't exactly go and add another GTX 780 to it without

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00:33:46,799 --> 00:33:51,760
upgrading the power supply, but you'll certainly be able to do small

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incremental upgrades like maybe a little bit more RAM or a couple more drives

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without any difficulty whatsoever. Now, all of that's fine and good. So, now

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we've got power and now we've got efficiency and performance and all that

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00:34:01,039 --> 00:34:06,799
good stuff. But what about temperatures? Because silence optimized is all fine

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00:34:05,120 --> 00:34:10,800
and great, but if it's running really hot, you're not going to be comfortable

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00:34:08,399 --> 00:34:14,800
with it. Even with our overclock, check this out. Running our stress test, we're

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00:34:12,560 --> 00:34:20,000
running at 63°. Now, this room's a little bit cool. So, let's say maximum

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70°, even if you're in quite a warm room. That is pretty darn impressive.

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Your Core i7 4770K is going to perform

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great and last for a long time with those kinds of temperatures in this kind

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of environment. I hope you guys have enjoyed this build guide with featuring

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00:34:33,440 --> 00:34:40,079
Intel's Haswell fourth generation 4770K. Don't forget to subscribe to

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00:34:38,240 --> 00:34:44,240
Effective for more unboxings, reviews, and other computer videos. And please

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00:34:42,079 --> 00:34:47,440
guys, leave a comment under the video. Let us know what you'd like to see for

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00:34:45,839 --> 00:34:52,359
future build guides because I can promise you more of them are coming.