WEBVTT

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running a pc in a mini fridge just doesn't work do you know what does

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hooking up this 3 000 watt refrigeration cooler directly to a CPU at least i sure

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hope it does by the end of this video with any luck brian the electrician will

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have transformed this gutted mini split into a CPU cooler and pulled a core i7

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down to what like negative 40 degrees celsius it's gonna be really stupid and

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huge thanks to thermal grizzly for sponsoring it

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first thing we need to do is figure out where the heck the thermostatic expansion valve is we've got our

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condenser here it sends liquid to the evaporator that turns all of your liquid

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into vapor with a u sends it back to here into the compressor and if liquid

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gets sent back into the compressor well you put something that's incompressible

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into a compressor things get really bad really fast that's why you need a tvx

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turns out it's right here which is great because we were afraid it would be on the evaporator the second thing we had

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to do is figure out how the heck this turns on and off so this part right here

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goes into your house and it's responsible for like connecting to wi-fi

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and sending a signal to the outdoor unit which actually does the real cooling

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stuff i don't want to go down the electronics engineering rabbit hole for

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the next 16 hours so we're just gonna take this out and

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use it as is now i just need to go spend a lot of money on copper honestly this

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is gonna be really expensive i'm sorry lines let's look at what we're going to turn

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our 200 of raw copper into using the tormach you're probably familiar with

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how CPU water blocks work and this is kind of like that but instead of using

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water to cool down your CPU for using the phase change of a refrigerant via a

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copper tube our refrigerant will be aimed directly at the CPU when it goes

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from the small diameter and high pressure of the tube to the comparatively massive space in here the

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refrigerant should go from a liquid to a vapor with the phase change absorbing

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loads of heat in the process after that we've created a maze of copper for the

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refrigerant to navigate before making its way back out the top to create this

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maze we'll need to machine four copper layers and then solder them all together

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sealing the whole thing and not allowing any refrigerant to escape which might be

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a bit difficult given that there might be over like two 300 psi in here this is

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my first time running the 16th inch so we'll see if we blow it up i guess

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yeah that seems to be working that tool is great for chip evacuation

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so i think we're good

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never mind i'm almost wondering if we should

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actually put a little bit of an orifice in the end of the tube because with this

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sitting here we're still gonna have a pretty big opening we could just crush the end of that this is just the most

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yolo evaporator one thing we are going to have to be careful to do is make sure

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we put this through the top layer

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before we solder it down to the lower layer because otherwise it won't go in it

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wouldn't be great and i'm gonna have to get this to sit up a little tighter

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because uh we're winding up with a bit of a gap so

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i'll have to work on the end of this a little bit to make it all fit

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yep this is why you double check everything when you're running new code

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this was supposed to be a helix and it is there but there's not enough space so

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it decided instead it was going to plunge the tool rate down to the final

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depth and then do a cut which with a 16 inch cutter would have definitely blown

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it right up so we're going to fix that ground the end down a little bit got the

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end opened back up and okay that's gonna fit so once we get the

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two major pieces soldered together here i can solder the tube in and that'll

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seal it into this lower layer and then as we add layers i can solder the tube

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where it passes through each layer

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final piece of copper this one looks pretty good too the nice stepped edges

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oh my tap just broke in there i guess this was a very shitty tap

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that's cool now should do

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oh it's finally time yeah

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i might need the big head

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this is way too hot for the flare to figure out what it is

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shoot it's actually soldered to the bodies

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uh we have fire bricks down there for when you figure out how to get it off

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yeah i think we're going to need that i'll try to move it okay so wow it's

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mold

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so what have we learned brian firebricks are our friends

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yeah don't solder it to the vice that's a first for me does anyone want

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hearing protection what's that

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have you ever seen a fire brick glow red it's been real hot oh yeah

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is that straight close enough yeah you can feel the heat just

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radiating off

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the coolant spraying off of the thing and hitting this screw hole and coming

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out need to fix that at some point what do you mean you fixed it there's a bucket

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still really hot but the fire bricks are the hottest part

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i dare you to lick it i'll give you 10 bucks i have an idea oh

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yeah the top tool down

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oh yeah it is working

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alex there's enough thermal mass here you could use this thing as a heater i

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just have to let it cool for a while and i can clean it up get some bare

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copper again and then we'll solder on the last layer we can solder the hookups

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and let it cool again and then we can pressure test it

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definitely going to need to surface the bottom

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done wow i don't think it's going to leak we did

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go through about a quarter tank of acetylene that's a lot of potato cannon shots would you really want to use

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acetylene for that i mean i i've seen potatoes shot with compressed air before

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oh yeah i've i've used acetylene the first time we shot it my dad was like

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you guys can't shoot that on the deck anymore because the Windows move too

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much it's got some good weight to it that's

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for sure we're in brian's truck to do the last bit here we just want to

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pressure test this those jump

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400 psi if there are any leaks that should

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actually show up even just my pressures fairly fast just because it's such a

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small volume we're good no bubbles

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good freaking job on the solder lock's pressure tested now we just need to get

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it ready to go on the CPU

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most of the crap is gone now but during all the soldering heating up cooling

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down and so on this might be very far from flat so fortunately we have a

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lapping plate here we're just going to mix up some oil oh not that much

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and a little bit of this stuff right here it's just

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what would you even call this and now i just do this for quite a while

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the lapping about halfway through made the bottom look like it was sandblasted

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which reminded me that we have a sandblaster why does this thing look like garbage it should look like a 300

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part that is so there we go look at that

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out of the sandblaster the surface finish on this thing is incredible i

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also went in lapped the bottom once more it's not a mirror finish but who cares

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we have thermal grizzly that'll fill in all the little gaps there and now it's

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time for the hardest part of this

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this is truly awful what you're doing if you've never seen a motherboard

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prepped for sub-zero before this is probably going to be real hard

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to watch but i swear this is much better than not doing it

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just see the vaseline squishing out this

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poor 8700k i'd say that it didn't deserve this but

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like it's gonna be a real fast 8700k by the end of the day so what are the

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chances this dies i really don't think

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we're going to kill this CPU especially given how much vaseline i just put on

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here but there's a reason that we're doing this on not our best CPU the first

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time i think it'll be fine though this is so gnarly brandon

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oh this is so hard to turn everything so slippery from all the vaseline so we

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have electrical it's right in here and now it's time to connect this up and

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fill it with refrigerant well first we have to pull it all down into a vacuum

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oh now it's time to pull it down to a vacuum we pull it into a vacuum to make

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sure that there's no contaminants nitrogen doesn't compress very well at

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least not in an ac system you will probably get some condensation on the

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low pressure side yeah if it's a problem we can just insulate the whole thing

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gotta use the sponsor of this video oh good old thermal grizzly cryo now make

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sure it's reading really actually so the sensor needs to get taped there

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but we also just need to insulate the whole thing

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regardless so i'm going to use the insulation tape stuff

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oh we need an allen key for those okay do you think the chances are that one

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allen key we don't have is the one we need that's definitely too big

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so i'm gonna say chances are probably pretty good

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we have the electrical connected this is mostly a box now we also have our

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electrical here running to it which maybe works maybe doesn't hopefully we

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can get refrigeration into it all are we good yep all right let's hit it

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oh is it on yeah

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oh that's cold

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oh e6 okay so it just shut down

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but that definitely got quite cold do we

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have a manual for this thing e6 malfunction of indoor fan motor

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exactly what you thought all right let's plug that in

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oh no i i was thinking just pull the motor itself out oh yeah that's more smarter i

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was thinking we just chucked the whole thing on the table well i mean we could just for a quick test but it would be so

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good to cool a whole computer with this i actually mounted in the front of a

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tower oh my fan's coming on

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so our controller isn't happy because it's 17 degrees in here and the lowest

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this will go is 16 degrees so when do you heat up the temperature probe before

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it'll kick on we don't want to melt the probe

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it's on low there we go you can start to see the condensation on it negative

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three negative four it's still going cool the lines are cool

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this whole thing is frosted up well should we connect it to a CPU i think so

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okay i'm very ready to

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turn this off this is getting very cold very fast i'm negative eight now

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this is really about as jank as this could ever get

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oh wait jeez thermal paste yeah thermal grizzly would not have been happy if we

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forgot to put it on so yeah thermal grazing sponsored this

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video and we are going to be using their cryonot they do have liquid metal as

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well but that will just be metal at

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these kinds of temperatures the cryonop is good for down to what

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like negative 200 degrees celsius something absolutely ridiculous like

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that oh wow nice CPU temperature of negative three degrees celsius right now

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not a bad start uh let's try what five

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gigahertz 5.1 let's try 5.3 and just see

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what happens we have so much cooling let's try 1.36

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we'll probably just get a blue screen but whatever oh it kicked off sweating yeah it's

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sweating pretty bad should have encased the whole board in

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vaseline in case something drips down on it no and Windows is not happy it's not

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even a stability error it's just stupid this drive has risen

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on it it's not our jank cooling setup it's a driver issue

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yay nope

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your piece of sh well it definitely works although we're having trouble with

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the electronics it seems to have some sort of like a defrost cycle or

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something like that for our purposes it's terrible so preface absolutely do

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none of this we have a professional electrician and electrical engineer but

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uh basically we're bald steep in this we were hoping just the compressor

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our hope was that the compressor just ran off of ac so we could just have a

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switch turn the switch on compressor runs

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we have coal to clarify we were hoping the compressor just ran off single phase

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ac it's looking like it's actually a three-phase motor so what we've figured

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out is that most of the electronics garbage is to just

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feed it three-phase ac we have that here we could just plug it in and send it

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full send on the three phase how do you improve it with this i'm legally

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obligated to say no

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this is lct we just we just send it and see yeah we're already way past that you

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should not do this at home we'll learn for the day right

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so we thought we figured it out but then 190 volts dc at 180 hertz

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dc is like one of those marketing spunk things and it's actually just a

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three-phase tesla motor not not tesla's in the company tesla is the inventor yes

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but basically instead of making it dumb it might be easier to scoop the signal

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at this point i mean you could just look up three phases and see what happens i

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just really don't want to blow up the compressors

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making it dumb was a lot harder than we thought it would be

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either we can spoof all of the different thermal probes and just potentiometer

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them until everything's happy or we can come to this board here and try to

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figure out what the enable pin is so now i get to spend all of today spoofing

00:14:28.959 --> 00:14:35.519
thermocouples hoping that works feed it whatever it wants and it'll run it's

00:14:33.279 --> 00:14:41.279
probably going to be the only mini split in existence with thermal grizzly for

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its chips this is the temperature probe that was on the evaporator and it seemed

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to shut down when we hit about negative 20 degrees it might have been because of

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this it might have been because of something in here but we're gonna test

00:14:50.639 --> 00:14:55.920
it out with this just at ambient temperature and see what happens

00:14:54.399 --> 00:14:59.680
oh there we go

00:14:57.440 --> 00:15:04.000
yep so that temperature's dropping and quickly and how do we just give it a

00:15:01.839 --> 00:15:08.800
minute wobble's concerning a little worrying hey jamie hi i dare you to

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stick your belly in there so we're now into the negatives on the block this is

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where we might be shutting down kind of soon but we'll see if it gets all frosty

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like this and then shuts off all of this frost is immediately turning into water

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because it warms up pretty fast that's really bad as you can probably imagine

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the compressor also is starting to frost up so that's why i'm concerned that the

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problem isn't our evaporator but one of the sensors in here is making a kick

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into a defrost cycle this is where having a proper shroud on this probably

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would help a lot we're having a lot of blowback it's at negative 14 degrees now

00:15:39.680 --> 00:15:44.880
it seems to be struggling to get below 14 degrees yeah it's actually warming up

00:15:43.440 --> 00:15:47.920
right now a little bit so that's probably the issue all right let's put

00:15:46.480 --> 00:15:50.639
the shroud back on for better cooling and try this again

00:15:52.079 --> 00:15:57.519
come on eat up kick on

00:15:55.440 --> 00:16:02.000
come on do it that's a lot less sketchy with it

00:16:00.000 --> 00:16:05.759
properly secured so we should now see the radiator temp go up as the

00:16:03.920 --> 00:16:10.480
evaporator goes down which is exactly what's happening wonderful i wonder if

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turbo will help us

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if it's actually so stupid that just this sensor hitting negative 20 shuts it

00:16:14.639 --> 00:16:20.079
off that would be amazing i think the way to get it colder would be to pull

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down the radiator so we need to do two stages take our other air conditioner

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hook it up to this that would probably work

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we're close to the moment of truth if we're able to hold negative 20 that

00:16:29.360 --> 00:16:34.399
means i can finally finish its project holy prank this has been a lot of work

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thermal grizzly you really got your money's worth with this one geez

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oh negative 20. there we go still dropping radiator attempts actually gone

00:16:40.880 --> 00:16:45.680
up a little bit which is cool it looks like we're not dropping anymore

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though we're probably just right at the limit of what this is able to do like i can feel a bit of the heat coming

00:16:49.120 --> 00:16:55.920
through and that might be enough to stop it from going any lower it's looking

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good if it's this dumb i'm really happy like they did a good job i guess because

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like who wants something that's negative 20 inside of their house look at all

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that frost i really hope this works if this is the

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last time that i apply some thermal grizzly cryon huh i am so sorry roman

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this is

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going for the hard mount of course i just want to get ahead of the comments

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here i do not the 8700k is still a very good chip especially when overclocked

00:17:23.520 --> 00:17:29.679
like this one's going to be it's really fast still i'm going to turn

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the ac on now

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because it can take a little bit oh that kicked on

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our nice safety shop towels

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that's already very cold yeah that's sub-zero all right

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so our CPU is currently at zero degrees that's that's pretty good to start off

00:17:45.520 --> 00:17:51.200
with it's kind of weird that it isn't lower i

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don't know if during a cinebench run if this has the heat dissipation to deal

00:17:52.880 --> 00:18:00.400
with that but we're about to find out the temperatures it increased to 38

00:17:57.280 --> 00:18:03.280
degrees oh my god that's so warm

00:18:00.400 --> 00:18:07.520
4.8 gigahertz all core it seems like it's doing fine i don't see any

00:18:04.480 --> 00:18:10.480
condensation it's holding at 38 degrees

00:18:07.520 --> 00:18:15.280
that is fantastic well the overclock isn't holding quite like i'd like but it

00:18:12.720 --> 00:18:18.720
still proves this works amazingly well i could fiddle with it more but i want to

00:18:16.799 --> 00:18:23.760
save all of my fiddling for the 12th gen in another video that is cold

00:18:22.080 --> 00:18:27.760
so huge thanks to thermal grizzly for sponsoring this video get some cryonot

00:18:26.160 --> 00:18:31.840
or conduct or not i don't know chuck it in your laptop your GPU wherever you

00:18:29.760 --> 00:18:36.080
want i don't know don't eat it probably i guess unless you want to

00:18:34.400 --> 00:18:40.480
so if you like this video hit like get subscribed and maybe watch your video

00:18:37.520 --> 00:18:48.799
where we subzero cooled the alienware area 51m with steve that thing was

00:18:43.760 --> 00:18:48.799
insanely cool and very scary