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this right here is a red 8k dsm c2 wce

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and that's for water cooled edition that's right my friends we water cooled

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an 8k red camera this solution believe

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it or not was entirely engineered in

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house and delivers on two things from our original tear down of this camera

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one we did manage to water cool a red

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cinema camera and two

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it did end up being quite a lengthy project it ended up taking us yes

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exactly one year to the day in that time we acquired a new warehouse unit filled

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it with equipment that we needed in order to complete this project learned

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how to use set equipment and spent a lot of time asking ourselves why the hell

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did we promise you guys we were going to do this but it all comes to an end now

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stay tuned guys because we're going to show you exactly how it worked by the

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way it's recording right now you can see right there even though

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we've been recording for a long time we are locked at 35 degrees celsius fresh

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awesome thermal grizzlies conductonaut liquid

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metal thermal interface material offers maximum cooling performance check it out

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and keep things cool at the link in the video description so this right here is the easier of the

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several heatsinks that we have to do yep for this one right here the plan is

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basically to just chop off the fins and screw a water

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block on right there the biggest problem they're going to have with like any of

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these is just that our water block and fittings and everything has to be

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contained within the size of these fins or it doesn't fit in the camera for

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those wondering why we don't just refabricate this part if you look at the

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bottom and all these cutouts i mean red hasn't provided us any schematics we'd

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be just measuring this would be a nightmare we're doing our best yeah and if you get

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one of these heights a bit wrong and tighten it down there's a good chance that you could just crack a chip but

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that's not even the hard one that's the easy one this right here is the really

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difficult one that we have to do first the plan is to chop all of these fins

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off and then create a super small water

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block that just fits on here and then the fittings come out the back

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and that's what we have modeled right here

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which looks pretty simple

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we have to consider that all of that is within about

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this big so we chop all the fins off but we leave the pipes pipes are still there

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yeah and that block slides onto the

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pipes yep through these holes that are right here and right here so we are

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effectively water cooling the heat pipes yes

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okay this makes perfect sense to me in that context the first thing we need to

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do is try to remove the fins from this heat pipe without screwing up the heat

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pipe itself getting this off cleanly is mission critical so i'm not gonna screw

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around with trying to do it fast i'm just gonna file it off and

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it's gonna take a while

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actually maybe snips aren't the worst idea kind of come in here

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all right so a material like copper which is what these heat pipes are made

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out of they do this thing that's called work hardening like bend it a little bit

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and then bend it a little bit and then bend it a little bit it slowly becomes

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harder and also more brittle this right here is a perfect example of that it

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just snapped right there it means my job just got a whole lot harder we're gonna

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have to order some heat pipes now from digikey we're gonna have to make a

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custom jig on the router to create the bend that we need

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it's just gonna be a bad time it's gonna be a lot of work that i did not want to

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do but now i need to while alex tries to figure

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that out let's go through the tools that you're gonna need to water cool your 8k

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red camera which is i'm sure why you guys are watching this video first and

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foremost you're going to want a cnc router or mill so this is from avid cnc

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it's their pro4848 and you could probably get the job done with just this

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and a drill press but if you wanted to make your life a little bit easier a

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manual mill like this one here and a lathe are gonna go a long way by the way

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guys i do wanna give a shout out to ocana tool supply for all the drills

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taps indicators storage and ppe that we're using in this project here we're

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gonna have a list of all of it down below so thanks guys

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just as important as the physical tools is a software and for this we'll be using solidworks and hsm works this

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first heatsink cools the logic of the camera a couple fpgas memory that sort

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of stuff we've used similar designs to this to cool desktop cpus so i'm not too

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concerned about his performance for the sensor though we need to create this

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really weird heat sink attached to heat pipes this is where we needed to verify

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that it will all work well in solidworks flow simulation before proceeding to

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machining first of all the design is pretty wacky so i want to double check

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that the water will flow reasonably well through the heatsink

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it's only a bit vortexy so i'll take it but more importantly we need to check

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that it won't cool the sensor too much since temperature variants can ever so

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slightly change the image fortunately though the cooling looks

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great and with the pump speed controlled by the camera we should have rock solid

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temps so after destroying the seat pipe we need

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to rethink it a tiny bit but i don't think it's a huge deal we're just going

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to try and use some heat to get this off of here then we'll need to make some

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heat pipes bend them around and make the water block to go on top right now i

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just want to start off by making the water block it should work fine but we are kind of

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pushing the limits of how deep this tool can go

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so we might have to redo it if we break it but yeah hopefully that doesn't

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happen should be fine this test will help us find out if we

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can successfully machine the grooves for the heatsink the tool has to go fairly

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deep into the material and if the chips get stuck down there we have the

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potential problem of blowing up an end mill fortunately the router had no

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issues with the tool blowing up as for this heatsink all that's going to be left over once we're done with it is

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this little sensor thing and the little piece of like copper or

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aluminum that's down here that actually interfaces with the sensor so and i'm

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just gonna give it some heat and hopefully this right here comes off pretty easily

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perfect because her pick didn't like it too much but we did get it off

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successfully so since the heat pipes do

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not need to survive this operation we can be a bit less nice to them oh

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this is just horrendous oh come on

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well it was nice knowing you

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now we're going to work on replacing this heatsink right here with a water cooler this one's a lot simpler than the

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other ones so just kind of lop off the fins stick a normal water

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cooler on top the only real problem is that it needs to be pretty small so like

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these are the fittings that we have as you can see it needs to go right down in

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here we might need to cut off like the bottom and some of the top to get

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everything to fit in we might have some kinking on the top we'll just need to

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put it together to find out so

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on our first part here as you can see like where we wanted this to be isn't

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quite centered on the stock so the problem is that the router here although

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you know it looks pretty smart it's actually pretty dumb we need to be able

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to tell it really accurately where both of the edges

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of our material is so how you would normally do that

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is using an edge finder like this one it spins around there's an eccentric spring

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and when you get close to your work it does a little

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like a little scoot out which would be fine but our router spins at a minimum of 7

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800 RPM and this thing just immediately blew up so then we got this guy right

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here yeah it's a bit fancier and when it touches the edge of the work there are

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lights around here that light up which would be great but if you look

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here so that got us thinking is it possible to just move the whole spindle

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right here up and it turns out if you

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look at just how far it is compared to the table it's pretty safe to move it up

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so we're going to do that now

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so this heat pipe looks pretty good although i am slightly concerned that

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flattening it and bending it might have damaged the internal wick so i want to

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validate that it is still totally fine to transfer heat from one way to the

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other the original plan was to use the nice flare camera to you know look at it

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the only problem is that this is reflective so this cannot see how hot

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this is in ir so we need to do this a dumb way

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then my hand is now hot so she works with the

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two water blocks completed it was time to do a quick test fit of the components

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with the test fit done it was clear that although the blocks would fit we'll need

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to order some 90 degree fittings and redo the heat pipes before the camera

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can go back into one piece the water cooling that goes into the

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camera is just half the battle though since we still need a radiator and a

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pump to actually dissipate that heat so to achieve this we got a little project

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box just big enough to house this tiny pump from alpha cool and a 120

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millimeter radiator now mounting for the radiator was pretty simple we cut a hole

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into the bottom and then on the top we made some cuts to allow for good airflow

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as for passing the water through the box we needed to fab up some adapters on the

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lathe to go from standard water cooling sizes to standard industrial tubing

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sizes so have you ever used a mill before i

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haven't all right we're going to make this right here it's going to help

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attach the camera to the box that's going to hold

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all the water cooling stuff on it cool first thing that you want to do is make

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this top flat basically just eyeball it you're going to take some off yeah this

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right here is the lock for the coil so you just lock that over now it doesn't go up and down pull on this okay and to

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turn it on you flip that switch right there so this is actually forward and

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reverse that's not very intuitive why is it

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labeled high range and low range when you have it in low range it goes forward

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at low range okay so that's

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that way and then is it this one yep all right

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let's give it some lube first

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you can change the speed using this right here so

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lower speed higher speed that sounds about right

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i'd like to say there's more than just guessing it but you basically just feed it in kind of crank her in you'll see

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when it goes through

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yeah and just go across

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all right that's good and then there's a break right here

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oh okay cool yeah the easiest way to do it so that we don't have too many tool

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changes is we want for the whole thing to be

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one inch across got it but the thing is that we don't

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exactly know where any of this is in space right now got it so what we want

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to do is get an indicator in there

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so to change the tool you take this guy right here

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you push the brake and then wait i don't know where the thing went

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oh i know it's wrong oh this goes all the way up

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as you can tell i've only used this like three times so far once you've loosened

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this a tiny bit you just put something down under like that yeah give it a

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little tap okay so now do you want to put the little indicator dude in there

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sure does it matter how deep it goes in it doesn't really matter okay so you're

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like really giving it yeah okay so let's just bring that down here

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i guess we have the zero on this side so let's move it over there also there's

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power feed on that so you can just

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turn it on you see how it's doing a little wiggle there yeah so you come in

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and then it goes true and then right when it

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kicks out it means you're in the right spot you do this one so zero y

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so now if we just go up a bit it should

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be right in the center it is zero oh cool

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so now we want to make the holes so this is our center punch we're just gonna

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center drill all the little holes on a mill you need the center punch yeah the

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drill will like walk all around when it makes contact with the metal

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they might move around and then kind of go in on an angle got it by the way

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people i'm not a machinist go and watch like mr pete or blondie hacked or

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someone now is this actually accurate to

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freaking you know a ten thousandth of an inch it's probably within a thousandth

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of an inch let's say that deep yeah okay

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all right our next one's at point seven five hey got em

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perfect okay

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neat so now we change our bit again yep we're gonna want to go back to the

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half inch cutter that we had before because it's a pain in the butt to swap

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to the drill bit holder so we want to remove this junk yep so when you do a

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cut that's a bit deeper like this you want to use conventional milling so if

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something grabs it pushes the cutter out of the piece

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and nothing funky happens whereas if you do it the other way which is climb

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milling you can get a boom

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so you made me stand here specifically so i would get showered and aluminum

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didn't you that wasn't the thought but it did work pretty well and it doesn't matter that it's smoking like that no

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that's fine that's the lube smoking not the actual part

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it's like saturn and

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so final hole here go over that was my nickname in college

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what uh so now we get to do the most funnest part so that's tapping it it's

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kind of this is a pretty dumb way to do this well i'm not the one instructing

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you're the one teaching me we need to go out all the way for this

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one oh we're taking out the whole collet there it goes

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trying to hide it but i'm breathing a little heavily so full disclosure i've

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only done this like three times before and it's been really scary every single

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time why is scary this needs a lot of lube

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oh something broke our tap broke

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why did it do that are you asking me what are the odds i'm

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gonna know i don't know that's how i've done it every other time it's been fine

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how much are those i don't think they're too bad like 20 bucks or something

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definitely not what you want to break all right so the box that all of the

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water cooling bits are going to go into is almost done we have the fittings here

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that were made on the lathe and they've just been jb welded in there we also

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have some gasket material here that the fan header goes through everything's

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just taped up right now because it's going to get a nice coat of black paint i think it looked pretty sweet in black

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i was reviewing the footage and i realized that something pretty unfortunate happened so this moved just

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ever so slightly in the vise because the bottom here isn't perfectly flat so what

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that means is that on this side the o-ring groove is about

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10 000 of an inch larger than this side

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so that means that on this side of the groove the o-ring isn't getting crushed

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and over here it is where it's within its back so we get to do the super fun

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thing now on the mill where we have to set it up so that we're going to take

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ten one thousands of an inch off of this bit that's going to be fun put that in

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there basically what a dial indicator does is

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that it's a super precise head here that when it moves up and down you have a

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little dial here and that swings around this one right here

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is each like little graduation is one thousandth of

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an inch i've just done

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the indicator reading like five times and now i'm checking it on

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the vise just to be sure what the hell i just put it in the vise

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and eyeballed it and this is flat to

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within a thousandth of an inch across like you know this little bit i still

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know if i trust it it just makes no sense that i just so you can see that

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although the indicator went completely flat across here it's considerably

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lower on this end than it is over here

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it's pretty easy to tell that it's not parallel with like the vise like these

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two so i don't have a good way of measuring

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depth here so we're just going to just take a little cut see what happens

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hopefully we are good

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0.05

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exactly what we're looking for this is pretty crazy but we're actually

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getting really close to the end so this is the water block that or one of

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the water blocks that needs to go inside and it's going on

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this piece of the camera just like that

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so we just need to drill and tap the holes down there

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and we're basically good to put it back

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together so i had a bit of an idea i am going to do the math to figure out where each of

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the holes go but just as a sanity check because sometimes you know your brain

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can be a bit dumb i'm going to just take this

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like test piece that we have here lock tight it just right to the top of

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the surface and then i've got a hole guy

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where where did i put the log tight oh there it is

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i wish that life had control f

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it's dabbing it on let's just leave that for a second and

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let that dry oh it's so tempting to just not do the

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math and just drill them in the center of those no no

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we're going to do this right

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all right

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just make sure this is all tight don't want to move and device i also don't

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want to tighten too much because then it might buckle and that'll be a real bad

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time these are very fine threaded screws

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and if we mess them up

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i don't even know we're just not mounting this on one side i guess it'll

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be really bad

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all right one down there's so much temptation to just

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chuck this and the drill right there and just give her with the bridgeport

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it's pretty crazy to think that tomorrow this thing's going to be just

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ready to go back together hopefully

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things get dropped and things get wet