this right here is a red 8k dsm c2 wce
and that's for water cooled edition that's right my friends we water cooled
an 8k red camera this solution believe
it or not was entirely engineered in
house and delivers on two things from our original tear down of this camera
one we did manage to water cool a red
cinema camera and two
it did end up being quite a lengthy project it ended up taking us yes
exactly one year to the day in that time we acquired a new warehouse unit filled
it with equipment that we needed in order to complete this project learned
how to use set equipment and spent a lot of time asking ourselves why the hell
did we promise you guys we were going to do this but it all comes to an end now
stay tuned guys because we're going to show you exactly how it worked by the
way it's recording right now you can see right there even though
we've been recording for a long time we are locked at 35 degrees celsius fresh
awesome thermal grizzlies conductonaut liquid
metal thermal interface material offers maximum cooling performance check it out
and keep things cool at the link in the video description so this right here is the easier of the
several heatsinks that we have to do yep for this one right here the plan is
basically to just chop off the fins and screw a water
block on right there the biggest problem they're going to have with like any of
these is just that our water block and fittings and everything has to be
contained within the size of these fins or it doesn't fit in the camera for
those wondering why we don't just refabricate this part if you look at the
bottom and all these cutouts i mean red hasn't provided us any schematics we'd
be just measuring this would be a nightmare we're doing our best yeah and if you get
one of these heights a bit wrong and tighten it down there's a good chance that you could just crack a chip but
that's not even the hard one that's the easy one this right here is the really
difficult one that we have to do first the plan is to chop all of these fins
off and then create a super small water
block that just fits on here and then the fittings come out the back
and that's what we have modeled right here
which looks pretty simple
we have to consider that all of that is within about
this big so we chop all the fins off but we leave the pipes pipes are still there
yeah and that block slides onto the
pipes yep through these holes that are right here and right here so we are
effectively water cooling the heat pipes yes
okay this makes perfect sense to me in that context the first thing we need to
do is try to remove the fins from this heat pipe without screwing up the heat
pipe itself getting this off cleanly is mission critical so i'm not gonna screw
around with trying to do it fast i'm just gonna file it off and
it's gonna take a while
actually maybe snips aren't the worst idea kind of come in here
all right so a material like copper which is what these heat pipes are made
out of they do this thing that's called work hardening like bend it a little bit
and then bend it a little bit and then bend it a little bit it slowly becomes
harder and also more brittle this right here is a perfect example of that it
just snapped right there it means my job just got a whole lot harder we're gonna
have to order some heat pipes now from digikey we're gonna have to make a
custom jig on the router to create the bend that we need
it's just gonna be a bad time it's gonna be a lot of work that i did not want to
do but now i need to while alex tries to figure
that out let's go through the tools that you're gonna need to water cool your 8k
red camera which is i'm sure why you guys are watching this video first and
foremost you're going to want a cnc router or mill so this is from avid cnc
it's their pro4848 and you could probably get the job done with just this
and a drill press but if you wanted to make your life a little bit easier a
manual mill like this one here and a lathe are gonna go a long way by the way
guys i do wanna give a shout out to ocana tool supply for all the drills
taps indicators storage and ppe that we're using in this project here we're
gonna have a list of all of it down below so thanks guys
just as important as the physical tools is a software and for this we'll be using solidworks and hsm works this
first heatsink cools the logic of the camera a couple fpgas memory that sort
of stuff we've used similar designs to this to cool desktop cpus so i'm not too
concerned about his performance for the sensor though we need to create this
really weird heat sink attached to heat pipes this is where we needed to verify
that it will all work well in solidworks flow simulation before proceeding to
machining first of all the design is pretty wacky so i want to double check
that the water will flow reasonably well through the heatsink
it's only a bit vortexy so i'll take it but more importantly we need to check
that it won't cool the sensor too much since temperature variants can ever so
slightly change the image fortunately though the cooling looks
great and with the pump speed controlled by the camera we should have rock solid
temps so after destroying the seat pipe we need
to rethink it a tiny bit but i don't think it's a huge deal we're just going
to try and use some heat to get this off of here then we'll need to make some
heat pipes bend them around and make the water block to go on top right now i
just want to start off by making the water block it should work fine but we are kind of
pushing the limits of how deep this tool can go
so we might have to redo it if we break it but yeah hopefully that doesn't
happen should be fine this test will help us find out if we
can successfully machine the grooves for the heatsink the tool has to go fairly
deep into the material and if the chips get stuck down there we have the
potential problem of blowing up an end mill fortunately the router had no
issues with the tool blowing up as for this heatsink all that's going to be left over once we're done with it is
this little sensor thing and the little piece of like copper or
aluminum that's down here that actually interfaces with the sensor so and i'm
just gonna give it some heat and hopefully this right here comes off pretty easily
perfect because her pick didn't like it too much but we did get it off
successfully so since the heat pipes do
not need to survive this operation we can be a bit less nice to them oh
this is just horrendous oh come on
well it was nice knowing you
now we're going to work on replacing this heatsink right here with a water cooler this one's a lot simpler than the
other ones so just kind of lop off the fins stick a normal water
cooler on top the only real problem is that it needs to be pretty small so like
these are the fittings that we have as you can see it needs to go right down in
here we might need to cut off like the bottom and some of the top to get
everything to fit in we might have some kinking on the top we'll just need to
put it together to find out so
on our first part here as you can see like where we wanted this to be isn't
quite centered on the stock so the problem is that the router here although
you know it looks pretty smart it's actually pretty dumb we need to be able
to tell it really accurately where both of the edges
of our material is so how you would normally do that
is using an edge finder like this one it spins around there's an eccentric spring
and when you get close to your work it does a little
like a little scoot out which would be fine but our router spins at a minimum of 7
800 RPM and this thing just immediately blew up so then we got this guy right
here yeah it's a bit fancier and when it touches the edge of the work there are
lights around here that light up which would be great but if you look
here so that got us thinking is it possible to just move the whole spindle
right here up and it turns out if you
look at just how far it is compared to the table it's pretty safe to move it up
so we're going to do that now
so this heat pipe looks pretty good although i am slightly concerned that
flattening it and bending it might have damaged the internal wick so i want to
validate that it is still totally fine to transfer heat from one way to the
other the original plan was to use the nice flare camera to you know look at it
the only problem is that this is reflective so this cannot see how hot
this is in ir so we need to do this a dumb way
then my hand is now hot so she works with the
two water blocks completed it was time to do a quick test fit of the components
with the test fit done it was clear that although the blocks would fit we'll need
to order some 90 degree fittings and redo the heat pipes before the camera
can go back into one piece the water cooling that goes into the
camera is just half the battle though since we still need a radiator and a
pump to actually dissipate that heat so to achieve this we got a little project
box just big enough to house this tiny pump from alpha cool and a 120
millimeter radiator now mounting for the radiator was pretty simple we cut a hole
into the bottom and then on the top we made some cuts to allow for good airflow
as for passing the water through the box we needed to fab up some adapters on the
lathe to go from standard water cooling sizes to standard industrial tubing
sizes so have you ever used a mill before i
haven't all right we're going to make this right here it's going to help
attach the camera to the box that's going to hold
all the water cooling stuff on it cool first thing that you want to do is make
this top flat basically just eyeball it you're going to take some off yeah this
right here is the lock for the coil so you just lock that over now it doesn't go up and down pull on this okay and to
turn it on you flip that switch right there so this is actually forward and
reverse that's not very intuitive why is it
labeled high range and low range when you have it in low range it goes forward
at low range okay so that's
that way and then is it this one yep all right
let's give it some lube first
you can change the speed using this right here so
lower speed higher speed that sounds about right
i'd like to say there's more than just guessing it but you basically just feed it in kind of crank her in you'll see
when it goes through
yeah and just go across
all right that's good and then there's a break right here
oh okay cool yeah the easiest way to do it so that we don't have too many tool
changes is we want for the whole thing to be
one inch across got it but the thing is that we don't
exactly know where any of this is in space right now got it so what we want
to do is get an indicator in there
so to change the tool you take this guy right here
you push the brake and then wait i don't know where the thing went
oh i know it's wrong oh this goes all the way up
as you can tell i've only used this like three times so far once you've loosened
this a tiny bit you just put something down under like that yeah give it a
little tap okay so now do you want to put the little indicator dude in there
sure does it matter how deep it goes in it doesn't really matter okay so you're
like really giving it yeah okay so let's just bring that down here
i guess we have the zero on this side so let's move it over there also there's
power feed on that so you can just
turn it on you see how it's doing a little wiggle there yeah so you come in
and then it goes true and then right when it
kicks out it means you're in the right spot you do this one so zero y
so now if we just go up a bit it should
be right in the center it is zero oh cool
so now we want to make the holes so this is our center punch we're just gonna
center drill all the little holes on a mill you need the center punch yeah the
drill will like walk all around when it makes contact with the metal
they might move around and then kind of go in on an angle got it by the way
people i'm not a machinist go and watch like mr pete or blondie hacked or
someone now is this actually accurate to
freaking you know a ten thousandth of an inch it's probably within a thousandth
of an inch let's say that deep yeah okay
all right our next one's at point seven five hey got em
perfect okay
neat so now we change our bit again yep we're gonna want to go back to the
half inch cutter that we had before because it's a pain in the butt to swap
to the drill bit holder so we want to remove this junk yep so when you do a
cut that's a bit deeper like this you want to use conventional milling so if
something grabs it pushes the cutter out of the piece
and nothing funky happens whereas if you do it the other way which is climb
milling you can get a boom
so you made me stand here specifically so i would get showered and aluminum
didn't you that wasn't the thought but it did work pretty well and it doesn't matter that it's smoking like that no
that's fine that's the lube smoking not the actual part
it's like saturn and
so final hole here go over that was my nickname in college
what uh so now we get to do the most funnest part so that's tapping it it's
kind of this is a pretty dumb way to do this well i'm not the one instructing
you're the one teaching me we need to go out all the way for this
one oh we're taking out the whole collet there it goes
trying to hide it but i'm breathing a little heavily so full disclosure i've
only done this like three times before and it's been really scary every single
time why is scary this needs a lot of lube
oh something broke our tap broke
why did it do that are you asking me what are the odds i'm
gonna know i don't know that's how i've done it every other time it's been fine
how much are those i don't think they're too bad like 20 bucks or something
definitely not what you want to break all right so the box that all of the
water cooling bits are going to go into is almost done we have the fittings here
that were made on the lathe and they've just been jb welded in there we also
have some gasket material here that the fan header goes through everything's
just taped up right now because it's going to get a nice coat of black paint i think it looked pretty sweet in black
i was reviewing the footage and i realized that something pretty unfortunate happened so this moved just
ever so slightly in the vise because the bottom here isn't perfectly flat so what
that means is that on this side the o-ring groove is about
10 000 of an inch larger than this side
so that means that on this side of the groove the o-ring isn't getting crushed
and over here it is where it's within its back so we get to do the super fun
thing now on the mill where we have to set it up so that we're going to take
ten one thousands of an inch off of this bit that's going to be fun put that in
there basically what a dial indicator does is
that it's a super precise head here that when it moves up and down you have a
little dial here and that swings around this one right here
is each like little graduation is one thousandth of
an inch i've just done
the indicator reading like five times and now i'm checking it on
the vise just to be sure what the hell i just put it in the vise
and eyeballed it and this is flat to
within a thousandth of an inch across like you know this little bit i still
know if i trust it it just makes no sense that i just so you can see that
although the indicator went completely flat across here it's considerably
lower on this end than it is over here
it's pretty easy to tell that it's not parallel with like the vise like these
two so i don't have a good way of measuring
depth here so we're just going to just take a little cut see what happens
hopefully we are good
0.05
exactly what we're looking for this is pretty crazy but we're actually
getting really close to the end so this is the water block that or one of
the water blocks that needs to go inside and it's going on
this piece of the camera just like that
so we just need to drill and tap the holes down there
and we're basically good to put it back
together so i had a bit of an idea i am going to do the math to figure out where each of
the holes go but just as a sanity check because sometimes you know your brain
can be a bit dumb i'm going to just take this
like test piece that we have here lock tight it just right to the top of
the surface and then i've got a hole guy
where where did i put the log tight oh there it is
i wish that life had control f
it's dabbing it on let's just leave that for a second and
let that dry oh it's so tempting to just not do the
math and just drill them in the center of those no no
we're going to do this right
all right
just make sure this is all tight don't want to move and device i also don't
want to tighten too much because then it might buckle and that'll be a real bad
time these are very fine threaded screws
and if we mess them up
i don't even know we're just not mounting this on one side i guess it'll
be really bad
all right one down there's so much temptation to just
chuck this and the drill right there and just give her with the bridgeport
it's pretty crazy to think that tomorrow this thing's going to be just
ready to go back together hopefully
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next time on Linus tech tips things get kinda sexy
things get dropped and things get wet