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hardcore overclocking is super simple at least that's what I thought a couple

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days ago unfortunately I am not an electrical engineer and we do not have a

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full-blown Electronics lab so we have ended up with this mess RTX 390 all the

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safeties disabled and a hijacked voltage controller that has what uh one two 12

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ways it can die at any second I'm going to show you how to do all of these mods

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and while it might look very janky this could be the fastest GPU in Canada and

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this madness is is brought to you by seic Mother we're going to be using

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their 1300 W power supply and if it can survive this th000 WT RTX 390 you're

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going to be

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fine here's the plan to get a GPU to go

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really fast you need current and voltage

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getting enough current is quite difficult NVIDIA has very tight limits

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on how much current a card will draw for safety reason preventing us from having

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too much fun we'll need to trick it into thinking it is drawing less current than

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it actually is using a shunt mod we'll show you that in a minute voltage is

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also tough for the last couple of generations NVIDIA hasn't given the

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user's voltage control but we will be getting it back using this it is a neat

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little device that allows us to bypass NVIDIA and talk directly to the voltage

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control so we can tell it to give the GPU as much voltage as we want before we

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can get get to that though we need to take some baseline readings to compare a

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moded performance to so just running 3D Mark for all of our tests and should be

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noted this GPU isn't exactly stock it was repasted with conducto knut and also

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has K5 Pro as the thermal pads that gave us about 6% increase over stock so we're

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already going to have pretty high scores just Baseline so our Baseline score is

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10,411 and during that the GPU drew a maximum of 390 Watts once this thing's

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overclocked it's going to be brutal on this power supply I'm going to run the

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Benchmark once more so we can get an actual score that we can upload then the

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madness begins normally removing the cooler of a GPU is the easy part of a

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hard mod although today oh God it is not

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cuz unfortunately I absolutely cak this thing with K5 Pro the plan was to just

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never open this thing again and it would just be a fast GPU but here we are all

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of this needs to leave because unfortunately soldering Toc Pro is not

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going to be a good time oh I don't think that's a soap and water

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kind of business yeah big regrets to up

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the current available on our GPU we have two options a BIOS mod or a shunt mod if

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you don't have access to an Electronics rework station a BIOS mod is probably

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your best bet no need to trick the controllers to allow 1,000 wats of power

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if your BIOS just accepts it but not everyone can use this approach for cards

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that aren't regularly used by overclockers a BIOS mod probably just

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doesn't exist and if it does exist good

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luck finding it modable overclocking bioses have to originate from NVIDIA so

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it is risky for the authorized person to Post online for just anyone to take if

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you want one for your card just try asking around on some overclocking

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forums or Discord servers one might end up in your DMs but even with a thousand

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W BIOS you might run into sneaky current limits that's why today we're going to

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be increasing the current the Hands-On way a shunt mod shunts are very simple

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circuits allow a device to find out how much current is being drawn by measuring

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the voltage drop across the shunt resistor the controller calculates the

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current using Ohm's law so current equals voltage over top of resistance by

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putting another resistor in parallel with the shunt resistor we can drop the

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resistance and make the controller thinking is using less current than it

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actually is in our case we're going to be soldering a 5m ohm resistor on top of

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the existing 5 mohm resistors meaning in

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software the GPU power that is reported will be half of what is actually drawing

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there is a second method by placing liquid metal on top of the shunt

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resistors you can effectively increase your current limit but it is difficult

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to control makes your power readings just completely unreliable can kill your

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GPU if it spills and as a bonus it'll eat away at the solder joints I didn't

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want to deal with any of that so we are sticking dis soldering how much trouble

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do we get into if we kill a 390 what did you guys do to this poor bit it's got

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like Goole over it shame man I'm using

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it I know what happened to that that's dead resistant juice on there man look

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how much solder is in the in the in

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the got to clean your tips it's a tech

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tip right there do we have solder wire here not dog poop stuff you don't want

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to just cover it in flux uh no I'm good

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it's probably not going to work anyway so doesn't really matter what oh wow okay yeah it seems too high

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uh yeah yeah for sure how do you go down this is a lot of inspiring confidence

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that we know what we're doing a got it no you have to hold that and enter 69 I

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guess all right I'm going to get proper wire you have you have the resistors

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right there we go yeah boy that's why

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you guys r in it like 800° C is cuz it just doesn't have enough heat yep FL uh

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no no uh oh what have I done to that resistor I

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am so sorry while you went to get the flux I figured out that we G done goofed

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these three shunts yeah are the ones that are connected to the ground pins so

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good thing that we had to go get flux because that would have been

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fun send it a

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b oh it's making bubbly noises why just

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sticking oh woohoo it's such a bad Sol Di Alex this

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isn't too bad of a soldering iron Kyle's just complaining a lot is this on it

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is dude it's on I'm not joking why is it

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so crap yeah so the soldering iron is at

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Max like 220° oh that's like 15° lower

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than what it needs like actually freaking mold the solder

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off die okay so I'm not an angry

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person typically I just like to shout at

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things watching a derow video you might think that shunt mods are super easy I

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certainly was fooled the problem is that our 70 W hako soldering iron really

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wasn't designed for something like this NVIDIA did a great job designing this

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PCB to dissipate heat which means unfortunately our 70 W soldering iron

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just cannot heat it up enough there are a couple of ways around this first you

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can buy a bettering soldering iron and get the results we saw from debower

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alternately you can heat up the GPU so stick it in a toaster oven you never

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plan on using again you could set it on bake setting and set the bake

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temperature to like 75 or 100 bake it until the whole PCB reaches around 100°

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C and then you can start soldering or you can put the GPU on top of a toaster

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in the end we used option three chucking our largest tip on the end of our

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soldering iron for maximum thermal mass and just setting the temperature to 900°

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that gave us an instant of flowing so and a bunch of boiling flux it looks

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terrible with the current limits doubled the next thing we need to do is gain

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control of the core voltage unfortunately since Kepler NVIDIA hasn't

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given the user voltage control to ensure our GTX customers get the highest

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quality product that runs quiet cool and fits in their PC oh and if one of their

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Partners like MSI or ASUS gives the user that control the car can't be sold with

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a warranty NVIDIA controls the creation of GPU bioses to like absurd level as

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far as I know like the way it works is you log into like an NVIDIA server make

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your BIOS then you have to get permission from them to like actually

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get the file fortunately we do have a solution for this where is our solution

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for this oh here it is we have this the

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Elmer Labs enhanced voltage controller or EVC 2sx it works by connecting to the

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i2c bus a communication bus that allows all the different components of your GPU

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to talk to each other to keep everything running nice and smoothly and the EVC

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uses that bus to talk directly to the voltage controller most high-end gpus

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these days use digital voltage controllers but before you get an EVC

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make sure your GPU is compatible on most gpus there will be open i2c solder pads

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that were used for debugging during production simply solder a header onto

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one of those and you can use the EVC once connected to the GPU we can

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directly access the voltage controller through the Elmer lab software and set

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the voltage to just whatever we want there's no way we killed it yep right

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yep it's totally fine yep do you want to hit the power supply yep we got it she

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works she has the video title we did not

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kill a 390 at this point in time with full control over GPU how much can we

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improve performance well uh with an air cooler the results were worse than

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Baseline the card was drawing 600 watts and the cooler just could not keep up so

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we needed some assistance who better help with hardcore overclocking Than The

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Man Behind actually hardcore overclocking himself buildo I you're

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basically not going to get much past the stock voltage settings of these cards

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cuz they just run insanely hot so if you keep raising the voltage the internal

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temperatures rise faster then you gain stability from extra voltage we have a

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couple of options the one that you might be thinking we would use is the chill

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tastrophe that's right here the problem

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is is that the phase change block that I

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made doesn't seem to work as good as we

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hoped and needs a little bit of a redesign instead and I'm really sad to

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say this we're going to have to use this yeah I I don't even know what to

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describe it as other than just like a complete piece of um we we made a video

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about making this Chiller nicer and in the process of making it nicer it just

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got so much worse it's in a box and it's hard to see what's leaking and if it's

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leaking on domain's voltage or whatever hopefully it works I don't know

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hopefully make everything work a bit better I grabbed a bunch of spray foam

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and the plan is to basically just just cover the whole thing in it

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hopefully that'll stop some of the condensation issues internally oh and

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also it is super heavy because I made it out of welded steel so I could get our

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welder set up for doing the pyramid PC the back half of yesterday was super

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productive all the electronics have been moved out and zip tied slga taped to the

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outside so that water will not drip on them hopefully all of the shunts have

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also been modded you can see right here that there's another resistor on top of

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all of them it was just as painful as before given our soldering iron finally

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we need to water cool this bad boy water blocks for it do exist but I would be

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concerned about condensation that I wouldn't be able to see forming on the

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inside so instead we're just going to use a generic VGA cooler which means

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unfortunately we need to modify the VGA

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cooler the problem is that the design of its really stupid so if you look in here

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the dimension of the steel piece is what gets you your clamping force on this

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o-ring super critical for this o-ring working and you not getting water all

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over your GPU that unfortunately means

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that I'm going to have to make something completely different we're going to hack

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something up with an angle grinder and call it a a

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goodbye our CPU mounting plate is done

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cuz I like you guys I even polished this side I just have to remove a bunch of K5

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so we can install these cute little heat sinks that are going to be going on the

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memory modules they will hopefully keep them nice and cool for thermal paste

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we're going to be using thermal Grizzly cryon knut we don't have heat spreader

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so if there's a spot that's not covered it might get hot and die last thing to

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do before this goes back together hopefully some nice cheap

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insurance I'm sorry it's so I don't kill

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it I know but like why this poor GPU it didn't deserve any

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of

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this I really hope I don't kill this card I know I've said that a lot but

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like I want to do more hardcore overclocking Chiller just ate 16 L of

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water if this thing doesn't leak I will be so happy that'll take half a while to

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cool down but oh there we go so far so

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good is the air conditioner working oh

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it is the real question is the pump holy

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crap it just worked we have water coming out of here is this leaking I don't see

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any leaks here oh that's definitely leaking what's that looks like your

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freay foam didn't do its job so I think

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what's leaking is right here oh that's gross I need gloves for this this has to

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be what's leaking oh my God that's gross oh this got out of hands some

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fast where is the drain Port I know that

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I included one this is a mess Brandon you're not

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wrong there I believe there was a drain

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port on the bottom somewhere yeah let's get bucket in

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there of all the ways that this was going to go horribly wrong this is not

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the way that I expected it to happen I'm sorry viewers that you need to watch

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this oh a where's the drain Port okay I

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see

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it everything's fine I have a lot of

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water down my sleeves gpus going onto the test bench

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blocks fine gpus is not leaking that's

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all great water temperatures at 14°

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which is awesome it's subambient but not so cold that we're going to have

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condensation issues guess it's time that we boot her

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up you already know this but don't do anything that we've done in this video

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at home it's all a bad idea like I've

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done some pretty Jank stuff before but this is primo

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Jank yes GPU is not dead so GPU

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temperature is currently at 11° you're not getting condensation but you are

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getting nice and cold all of our powers look good do we have vrm temperatures on

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here everything right here seems to be working pretty well as long as you just

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don't look back past it it's boosting

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High memory is getting kind of hot but

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it still is doing just fine so vrm

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temperature in the last run 54° GPU temperature 33 freaking awesome

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memory is getting a little bit hot we saw 96° we can probably cool this down a

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bit better on that last run we drew 360

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watt which is half of what we actually Drew which means we did what 720 w

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and the GPU is at 2 GHz this thing is

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freaking fast it's finally time to do some overclocking so I think we're going

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to be pretty easily able to get around 21 2200 MHz on this GPU although that

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doesn't really matter Invidia does This Thing Called clock stretching so if the

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core voltage drops a little bit to keep

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the GPU stable they will for a couple of Cycles drop the frequency down and just

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not report it in software at all so even though we might be looking at 2200 MHz

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or whatever the thing that really is going to tell us if it's good or not is

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the 3D Mark score now for those scores our Baseline was 10,000 if we can get

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11,000 I'm going to be happy and if we

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can get 12,000 were like top 10 in the

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world with this GPU that's we we're can do it here's our first overclocked run

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so this is plus 50 MHz on the core and

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our plan is to basically just add 25 MHz

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see if it's stable if it crashes we add some more voltage we just keep on going

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like that until either the thermals or the vrms or something just can't take it

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anymore go away Brandon I'm going to overclock this for the next while and

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see if we can get a record okay 10,900 I think that's slightly more than we had

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Baseline actually that's deadly close to 11,000 so we're just going to keep on

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going let's see how far we can push it so CPU it's at 5.5 GHz and uh I had to

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open the door back there so that it wouldn't keep on thermal throttling on

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us anyway GPU isn't quite as fast as I

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wanted we are getting like

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11,500 for our scores sometimes

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11,700 that is a 12% increase over stock

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and stock was already 6% faster than stock so like this is a lot faster than

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a normal 390 problem is that doesn't get

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us onto the 3D Mark leaderboard I think it's just simply a case of silicon

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Lottery like no matter what I do can't get more than plus 100 MHz on the core

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so was all of this worth it I guess it

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depends on what you're trying to do for a 12% performance increase like that is

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measurable but at the same time you're risking a card that's infinite dollars

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cuz you can't buy one yeah there we go

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11,706 so that is obscenely fast our

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poor stupid Chiller can barely keep up with our 39 it's outputting so much

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power I don't think we're going to be able to get better than that that said I

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had fun uh is that a good constellation prize Brandon my leak bin filled up so I

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put a leak bin underneath my leak bin gu I thought going into this that this was

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going to be super simple just you know Chuck some resistors onto the board and

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bippity B you have a super fast 390

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turns out it's not that easy there's no good reason to do this besides you have

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fun making your scores get nice and high

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what's also a lot of fun is uh C Sonic they sponsor this video and I'm honestly

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shocked that I was able to use a single power supply I brought two of them over

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here thinking that I have to run both of them because uh CPU is drawing 400 watts

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cards drawing a pretty consistent 800 that's like 12200 WTS I kind of thought

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it was going to conch out and it didn't so excellent job C Sonic this is a real

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stress test of your power supply in you passed they also have a 12-year warranty

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I run it in my system at home and

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they're just high quality power supplies what else more do you want so if you

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like this video hit like get subscribed do you want to see more hardcore

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overclocking stuff I kind of want to 6.9 GHz CPU I wouldn't mind doing that and

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if you want to watch something else maybe watch when uh when we sub zeroed

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the Alienware area 51m that was ridiculous h
