WEBVTT 00:00:00.000 --> 00:00:04.240 Hello, my name is Tatiana. In case you do not know, I work in product development here at 00:00:04.240 --> 00:00:08.640 Creator Warehouse and today we'll be looking into fabric testing, which is great because I heard 00:00:08.640 --> 00:00:12.640 that some of the all float paint beeps have been commenting saying that you want a more deep dive 00:00:12.640 --> 00:00:17.200 into what goes into product testing, which is amazing because that is my favorite part 00:00:17.200 --> 00:00:22.640 and ask and you shall receive. We will be going behind the seams into our clothing and seeing how 00:00:22.640 --> 00:00:27.200 the standardized tests can relate to real-world performance. We'll be looking into a variety 00:00:27.200 --> 00:00:32.640 things such as color facets of different fabrics, abrasion testing, some water repellency testing, 00:00:32.640 --> 00:00:38.480 some laundry testing, as well as some weight using a GSM color. So for some of the standardized tests 00:00:38.480 --> 00:00:43.600 that we do, we look at things like color facets to laundering, we look at things like abrasion 00:00:43.600 --> 00:00:49.920 resistance, we look at everything in regards to color facets to lighting, changing in all 00:00:49.920 --> 00:00:55.200 these different areas. And one of the things that we also look at is, for example, such as the 00:00:55.200 --> 00:01:00.960 called favorites, Uncle Lina's hoodie, which is getting a little bit of a refreshment, doing it in 00:01:00.960 --> 00:01:07.680 a different kind of construction for future releases, hopefully, is we look at something like ATC 00:01:08.400 --> 00:01:14.560 8-2016, which you can see is color facets to crocking, or you can look at it as in 00:01:15.680 --> 00:01:22.320 color transfer from a lighter colored fabric. So when looking at the actual tests, you can see 00:01:22.320 --> 00:01:29.200 that with these white strips, which is also called crocking cloth, is evaluated up against what's 00:01:29.200 --> 00:01:33.760 called a crock meter. When you are doing that, essentially, you are rubbing a, doing a rubbing 00:01:33.760 --> 00:01:39.040 motion against the fabric in order to see if there's any color transfer, either in dry conditions, 00:01:39.040 --> 00:01:43.200 so that would just be a standard condition, as well as in wet conditions that it's wetted with 00:01:43.200 --> 00:01:48.720 still water. If any color transfer has occurred, you would evaluate it on a grayscale method. 00:01:48.720 --> 00:01:53.920 So essentially, it is like a piece of cardstock that has a variety of different grays that have 00:01:53.920 --> 00:01:59.440 a different opacity, and it is assigned a number. That test technician would then go to something 00:01:59.440 --> 00:02:05.120 like a light box with a standard lighting condition, and then evaluate the crocking cloth 00:02:05.120 --> 00:02:11.840 that had any color transfer that occurred to the standard grays that are listed out in a 1-5 scale. 00:02:11.840 --> 00:02:16.640 So 5 would be the best, therefore, you would see practically nothing on the crocking cloth, 00:02:16.640 --> 00:02:20.960 or it'd be a 1 where you would see a significant change. Then once we get that test, we are able 00:02:20.960 --> 00:02:27.680 to evaluate whether or not it meets the requirement, and we will continue, or we will ask our supplier 00:02:27.680 --> 00:02:32.080 and say, hey, we definitely need to make this better, because we don't want any color transfer. 00:02:32.080 --> 00:02:36.960 Last thing you want is to sit on a white couch, and for you to come up, and there to be a color 00:02:36.960 --> 00:02:43.760 transfer that occurred. So the next one that I will be talking about is also AATCC 61 version 00:02:43.840 --> 00:02:51.120 2013. So essentially what this is is color fastest washing. When you look at it, how it's done is 00:02:51.120 --> 00:02:58.240 you take the fabric and you sew it with a multi-fiber strip. So this uses acetate, a cotton, 00:02:58.240 --> 00:03:04.080 nylon, polyester, acrylic, and the last one is like a worsted wool. So that would essentially 00:03:04.080 --> 00:03:09.280 encompass, for example, any other trims or anything that is on a garment, or when you bundle 00:03:09.280 --> 00:03:13.280 everything up to throw in the wash, obviously they're all going to have different fiber contents. 00:03:13.280 --> 00:03:19.040 The cool thing about this machine is essentially you would add in a metal cup with the test 00:03:19.040 --> 00:03:24.000 specimen with the multi-fiber strip, as well as 50 steel balls, in order to simulate a 00:03:24.640 --> 00:03:30.080 tumbling cycle, and you would add the washing detergent, and therefore it would spin a lot of 00:03:30.080 --> 00:03:35.600 time, and then you would dry the fabric specimen with the multi-fiber strip, and then you would 00:03:35.600 --> 00:03:40.240 evaluate that multi-fiber strip to see if there was any color change that occurred. Within this, 00:03:40.240 --> 00:03:45.520 again, you would be using the same grayscale in order to evaluate, but instead of using it with 00:03:45.520 --> 00:03:49.840 just a standard white cloth, like the crocking cloth, you would use it for the multi-fiber strip 00:03:49.840 --> 00:03:55.520 of all the different fiber contents. So each fiber would be given a scale within that, and again, 00:03:56.080 --> 00:04:00.960 using that grayscale with the different opacities, you would then evaluate the different fiber strips. 00:04:00.960 --> 00:04:06.800 Another way that we look into fabrics is by, for example, looking at standard tests and seeing how 00:04:06.800 --> 00:04:11.760 they would relate to real-world scenarios. For example, when looking at the backpack, we are 00:04:11.760 --> 00:04:16.720 looking at a variety of different construction types when considering the double layer that we 00:04:16.720 --> 00:04:22.000 will add for future backpack iterations. So we looked at a variety of different sample constructions, 00:04:22.000 --> 00:04:27.120 for example, such as when looking at bonding with a different adhesive, as well as some 00:04:27.120 --> 00:04:32.160 stitched ones that are stitched with self or stitched with other different types of fabrics 00:04:32.160 --> 00:04:36.320 to see what would behave the best. Now, when looking at that in comparison to different 00:04:36.320 --> 00:04:44.880 testing standards, one of the tests that we used was ASTM D4966-12 version 2016, which is 00:04:44.880 --> 00:04:50.640 essentially a bracing resistance test, where you would use 12 kilopascals of pressure, 00:04:50.640 --> 00:04:54.640 and the endpoint would be 10,000 rubs. So when looking at that, when you're looking at the 00:04:54.640 --> 00:04:59.920 actual test machine, has the weights that are applied and a standard cloth on the bottom, 00:04:59.920 --> 00:05:05.520 and your tested specimen on top, which is then rubbed in a Lissa Jules pattern in order to get 00:05:05.520 --> 00:05:11.600 the overall rubbing on the test specimen, which you would then evaluate again on a graded scale. 00:05:11.600 --> 00:05:16.320 And I always like to bring in the test specimens as well to see how much has been abraded through. 00:05:16.320 --> 00:05:21.040 So sometimes tests happen randomly right out of our office, especially when I get in a lot of new 00:05:21.040 --> 00:05:25.680 development fabrics. I like to get my hands right in there to make sure that it's an offering that 00:05:25.680 --> 00:05:31.280 we want to develop and bring to market. So a lot of times I will do a water repellency test, which 00:05:31.360 --> 00:05:36.880 is essentially just using a good old bottle of H2O and spraying it on the fabric to see whether 00:05:36.880 --> 00:05:42.160 or not it starts to beat off or whether it starts to absorb in the actual fabric. So for example, 00:05:42.160 --> 00:05:46.960 this is a fabric that we are looking at developing that may be for future launches. So this is a 00:05:46.960 --> 00:05:54.480 nylon base with a DWR, which is a durable water repellency coating on the face. The membrane is 00:05:54.480 --> 00:06:02.000 a E-PTFE, which is an expanded polytetra floral ethylene membrane that is used for a variety 00:06:02.000 --> 00:06:08.240 of properties such as water repellency and thermal resistance, and then also a nylon meshback. So 00:06:08.240 --> 00:06:12.400 something like that is something that we would do in office. In comparison to a standard test, 00:06:12.400 --> 00:06:18.320 when I would send it off for third-party testing, we would do AATCC-22, which is a water repellency 00:06:18.320 --> 00:06:23.440 test where the fabric is laid at an angle, and then you would spray a certain amount of water 00:06:23.440 --> 00:06:27.280 and based off of whether or not it starts to beat off the fabric or start to absorb, 00:06:27.280 --> 00:06:32.400 again, it'd be rated on a scale. And then obviously, the more it beats off, the better it performs, 00:06:32.400 --> 00:06:37.200 the less you probably need to reevaluate your coating. Or when measuring how a fabric resists 00:06:37.200 --> 00:06:43.680 water, you could look at something like a hydrostatic test where we would use something like AATCC-127, 00:06:44.240 --> 00:06:49.200 which is essentially where you would take a piece of fabric and fit it over a water column, 00:06:49.280 --> 00:06:53.520 and you would measure based off of the water pressure how much it takes in order for it to 00:06:53.520 --> 00:06:59.280 actually leak and rupture the fabric. Another way that we do in-house office tests is through 00:06:59.280 --> 00:07:05.680 laundry testing. So a lot of times when we get proto samples or any quality samples in general, 00:07:05.680 --> 00:07:10.880 we like to do a good old-fashioned laundry test. So here is an example of another thing that hopefully 00:07:10.880 --> 00:07:18.000 you will find soon on LTCSore.com. And with that, we do a very standard washing test, the same as 00:07:18.000 --> 00:07:22.800 that would react in any home. And then afterwards, we take those key points in order to measure to 00:07:22.800 --> 00:07:27.920 see things like shrinkage and how it behaves, whether or not it starts to spill, whether there's 00:07:27.920 --> 00:07:32.400 any color fastest changes. And we would obviously evaluate that and look into it further to make 00:07:32.400 --> 00:07:37.360 sure that it wouldn't happen for anything that gets put into production. So here, next to the 00:07:37.360 --> 00:07:42.640 engineering area, we actually have our handy-dandy washer and dryer. So usually, I'm running up and 00:07:42.640 --> 00:07:47.760 down those steps in order to get my steps in and work these bad boys, whether we do something like 00:07:47.760 --> 00:07:52.560 three washes and three dries or whatever the team is looking for. Since I have one here, 00:07:52.560 --> 00:07:56.400 I'll show you how it works, which you should obviously already know how to wash and dry, 00:07:56.400 --> 00:08:02.080 but you know what? You never know. And we as our standard mothers gain laundry detergent that has 00:08:02.080 --> 00:08:06.080 a synthetic smell that leaves everyone wondering, why the hell are you doing this? Because usually, 00:08:06.080 --> 00:08:12.240 when we're running it for long periods of time, over and over again, it just absolutely, it has 00:08:12.240 --> 00:08:16.160 everything smelling like fresh laundry. So another thing that's super interesting with laundry, 00:08:16.240 --> 00:08:21.360 get a load of this, CGSB, which is the Canadian General Standards Board, has actually put out a 00:08:21.360 --> 00:08:26.800 disclaimer for their home laundering conditions saying that they can't necessarily keep totally 00:08:26.800 --> 00:08:32.640 up to date with the washer and dryer industry, because essentially what they're doing is they 00:08:32.640 --> 00:08:37.520 care more about the effectiveness of washing and drying and not necessarily keeping your clothes in 00:08:37.520 --> 00:08:42.640 mint condition and keeping them for long periods of time. Therefore, they always recommend, and so 00:08:42.640 --> 00:08:49.440 do I, to follow the care instructions because all of this high heat and high with washing as well as 00:08:49.440 --> 00:08:54.720 drying and that really fast tumbling process is essentially just deteriorating your clothes. 00:08:54.720 --> 00:09:00.320 So that's one key laundry tip is to always follow the care instructions. Lastly, another thing that 00:09:00.320 --> 00:09:06.720 we do in house a lot is getting the weight of a garment. So this, for example, is a GSM cutter, 00:09:06.720 --> 00:09:12.240 and GSM stands for grams per square meter, which can be used to calculate density. We put this 00:09:12.240 --> 00:09:17.200 little rubber plate in behind, we put it on top, and when you can see it actually has a 00:09:18.080 --> 00:09:25.200 little blade in there in order to cut it, and this will create a perfect circular diameter of 113 00:09:25.200 --> 00:09:32.960 millimeters. So hold it down, punch through it, peel it away, and there you go. You would take 00:09:32.960 --> 00:09:39.840 this and basically weigh it, and that would give you an accurate GSM, at least preliminary. Of course, 00:09:39.840 --> 00:09:44.640 we do a lot of third-party testing as well to confirm because you never know because this is 00:09:44.640 --> 00:09:50.240 not necessarily, of course, standardized conditions. Therefore, it's always good to do that preliminary 00:09:50.240 --> 00:09:54.960 first and then always check again beforehand. That is it for testing. We are always looking 00:09:54.960 --> 00:10:01.200 towards innovating and adapting and having new standards going forward in order to match any 00:10:01.200 --> 00:10:06.480 real-world scenarios and create the best, most long-lasting products, and hopefully you learned 00:10:06.480 --> 00:10:09.760 a little bit more about fabric testing and maybe a laundry chip in there too.