1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:04,240 Hello, my name is Tatiana. In case you do not know, I work in product development here at 2 00:00:04,240 --> 00:00:08,640 Creator Warehouse and today we'll be looking into fabric testing, which is great because I heard 3 00:00:08,640 --> 00:00:12,640 that some of the all float paint beeps have been commenting saying that you want a more deep dive 4 00:00:12,640 --> 00:00:17,200 into what goes into product testing, which is amazing because that is my favorite part 5 00:00:17,200 --> 00:00:22,640 and ask and you shall receive. We will be going behind the seams into our clothing and seeing how 6 00:00:22,640 --> 00:00:27,200 the standardized tests can relate to real-world performance. We'll be looking into a variety 7 00:00:27,200 --> 00:00:32,640 things such as color facets of different fabrics, abrasion testing, some water repellency testing, 8 00:00:32,640 --> 00:00:38,480 some laundry testing, as well as some weight using a GSM color. So for some of the standardized tests 9 00:00:38,480 --> 00:00:43,600 that we do, we look at things like color facets to laundering, we look at things like abrasion 10 00:00:43,600 --> 00:00:49,920 resistance, we look at everything in regards to color facets to lighting, changing in all 11 00:00:49,920 --> 00:00:55,200 these different areas. And one of the things that we also look at is, for example, such as the 12 00:00:55,200 --> 00:01:00,960 called favorites, Uncle Lina's hoodie, which is getting a little bit of a refreshment, doing it in 13 00:01:00,960 --> 00:01:07,680 a different kind of construction for future releases, hopefully, is we look at something like ATC 14 00:01:08,400 --> 00:01:14,560 8-2016, which you can see is color facets to crocking, or you can look at it as in 15 00:01:15,680 --> 00:01:22,320 color transfer from a lighter colored fabric. So when looking at the actual tests, you can see 16 00:01:22,320 --> 00:01:29,200 that with these white strips, which is also called crocking cloth, is evaluated up against what's 17 00:01:29,200 --> 00:01:33,760 called a crock meter. When you are doing that, essentially, you are rubbing a, doing a rubbing 18 00:01:33,760 --> 00:01:39,040 motion against the fabric in order to see if there's any color transfer, either in dry conditions, 19 00:01:39,040 --> 00:01:43,200 so that would just be a standard condition, as well as in wet conditions that it's wetted with 20 00:01:43,200 --> 00:01:48,720 still water. If any color transfer has occurred, you would evaluate it on a grayscale method. 21 00:01:48,720 --> 00:01:53,920 So essentially, it is like a piece of cardstock that has a variety of different grays that have 22 00:01:53,920 --> 00:01:59,440 a different opacity, and it is assigned a number. That test technician would then go to something 23 00:01:59,440 --> 00:02:05,120 like a light box with a standard lighting condition, and then evaluate the crocking cloth 24 00:02:05,120 --> 00:02:11,840 that had any color transfer that occurred to the standard grays that are listed out in a 1-5 scale. 25 00:02:11,840 --> 00:02:16,640 So 5 would be the best, therefore, you would see practically nothing on the crocking cloth, 26 00:02:16,640 --> 00:02:20,960 or it'd be a 1 where you would see a significant change. Then once we get that test, we are able 27 00:02:20,960 --> 00:02:27,680 to evaluate whether or not it meets the requirement, and we will continue, or we will ask our supplier 28 00:02:27,680 --> 00:02:32,080 and say, hey, we definitely need to make this better, because we don't want any color transfer. 29 00:02:32,080 --> 00:02:36,960 Last thing you want is to sit on a white couch, and for you to come up, and there to be a color 30 00:02:36,960 --> 00:02:43,760 transfer that occurred. So the next one that I will be talking about is also AATCC 61 version 31 00:02:43,840 --> 00:02:51,120 2013. So essentially what this is is color fastest washing. When you look at it, how it's done is 32 00:02:51,120 --> 00:02:58,240 you take the fabric and you sew it with a multi-fiber strip. So this uses acetate, a cotton, 33 00:02:58,240 --> 00:03:04,080 nylon, polyester, acrylic, and the last one is like a worsted wool. So that would essentially 34 00:03:04,080 --> 00:03:09,280 encompass, for example, any other trims or anything that is on a garment, or when you bundle 35 00:03:09,280 --> 00:03:13,280 everything up to throw in the wash, obviously they're all going to have different fiber contents. 36 00:03:13,280 --> 00:03:19,040 The cool thing about this machine is essentially you would add in a metal cup with the test 37 00:03:19,040 --> 00:03:24,000 specimen with the multi-fiber strip, as well as 50 steel balls, in order to simulate a 38 00:03:24,640 --> 00:03:30,080 tumbling cycle, and you would add the washing detergent, and therefore it would spin a lot of 39 00:03:30,080 --> 00:03:35,600 time, and then you would dry the fabric specimen with the multi-fiber strip, and then you would 40 00:03:35,600 --> 00:03:40,240 evaluate that multi-fiber strip to see if there was any color change that occurred. Within this, 41 00:03:40,240 --> 00:03:45,520 again, you would be using the same grayscale in order to evaluate, but instead of using it with 42 00:03:45,520 --> 00:03:49,840 just a standard white cloth, like the crocking cloth, you would use it for the multi-fiber strip 43 00:03:49,840 --> 00:03:55,520 of all the different fiber contents. So each fiber would be given a scale within that, and again, 44 00:03:56,080 --> 00:04:00,960 using that grayscale with the different opacities, you would then evaluate the different fiber strips. 45 00:04:00,960 --> 00:04:06,800 Another way that we look into fabrics is by, for example, looking at standard tests and seeing how 46 00:04:06,800 --> 00:04:11,760 they would relate to real-world scenarios. For example, when looking at the backpack, we are 47 00:04:11,760 --> 00:04:16,720 looking at a variety of different construction types when considering the double layer that we 48 00:04:16,720 --> 00:04:22,000 will add for future backpack iterations. So we looked at a variety of different sample constructions, 49 00:04:22,000 --> 00:04:27,120 for example, such as when looking at bonding with a different adhesive, as well as some 50 00:04:27,120 --> 00:04:32,160 stitched ones that are stitched with self or stitched with other different types of fabrics 51 00:04:32,160 --> 00:04:36,320 to see what would behave the best. Now, when looking at that in comparison to different 52 00:04:36,320 --> 00:04:44,880 testing standards, one of the tests that we used was ASTM D4966-12 version 2016, which is 53 00:04:44,880 --> 00:04:50,640 essentially a bracing resistance test, where you would use 12 kilopascals of pressure, 54 00:04:50,640 --> 00:04:54,640 and the endpoint would be 10,000 rubs. So when looking at that, when you're looking at the 55 00:04:54,640 --> 00:04:59,920 actual test machine, has the weights that are applied and a standard cloth on the bottom, 56 00:04:59,920 --> 00:05:05,520 and your tested specimen on top, which is then rubbed in a Lissa Jules pattern in order to get 57 00:05:05,520 --> 00:05:11,600 the overall rubbing on the test specimen, which you would then evaluate again on a graded scale. 58 00:05:11,600 --> 00:05:16,320 And I always like to bring in the test specimens as well to see how much has been abraded through. 59 00:05:16,320 --> 00:05:21,040 So sometimes tests happen randomly right out of our office, especially when I get in a lot of new 60 00:05:21,040 --> 00:05:25,680 development fabrics. I like to get my hands right in there to make sure that it's an offering that 61 00:05:25,680 --> 00:05:31,280 we want to develop and bring to market. So a lot of times I will do a water repellency test, which 62 00:05:31,360 --> 00:05:36,880 is essentially just using a good old bottle of H2O and spraying it on the fabric to see whether 63 00:05:36,880 --> 00:05:42,160 or not it starts to beat off or whether it starts to absorb in the actual fabric. So for example, 64 00:05:42,160 --> 00:05:46,960 this is a fabric that we are looking at developing that may be for future launches. So this is a 65 00:05:46,960 --> 00:05:54,480 nylon base with a DWR, which is a durable water repellency coating on the face. The membrane is 66 00:05:54,480 --> 00:06:02,000 a E-PTFE, which is an expanded polytetra floral ethylene membrane that is used for a variety 67 00:06:02,000 --> 00:06:08,240 of properties such as water repellency and thermal resistance, and then also a nylon meshback. So 68 00:06:08,240 --> 00:06:12,400 something like that is something that we would do in office. In comparison to a standard test, 69 00:06:12,400 --> 00:06:18,320 when I would send it off for third-party testing, we would do AATCC-22, which is a water repellency 70 00:06:18,320 --> 00:06:23,440 test where the fabric is laid at an angle, and then you would spray a certain amount of water 71 00:06:23,440 --> 00:06:27,280 and based off of whether or not it starts to beat off the fabric or start to absorb, 72 00:06:27,280 --> 00:06:32,400 again, it'd be rated on a scale. And then obviously, the more it beats off, the better it performs, 73 00:06:32,400 --> 00:06:37,200 the less you probably need to reevaluate your coating. Or when measuring how a fabric resists 74 00:06:37,200 --> 00:06:43,680 water, you could look at something like a hydrostatic test where we would use something like AATCC-127, 75 00:06:44,240 --> 00:06:49,200 which is essentially where you would take a piece of fabric and fit it over a water column, 76 00:06:49,280 --> 00:06:53,520 and you would measure based off of the water pressure how much it takes in order for it to 77 00:06:53,520 --> 00:06:59,280 actually leak and rupture the fabric. Another way that we do in-house office tests is through 78 00:06:59,280 --> 00:07:05,680 laundry testing. So a lot of times when we get proto samples or any quality samples in general, 79 00:07:05,680 --> 00:07:10,880 we like to do a good old-fashioned laundry test. So here is an example of another thing that hopefully 80 00:07:10,880 --> 00:07:18,000 you will find soon on LTCSore.com. And with that, we do a very standard washing test, the same as 81 00:07:18,000 --> 00:07:22,800 that would react in any home. And then afterwards, we take those key points in order to measure to 82 00:07:22,800 --> 00:07:27,920 see things like shrinkage and how it behaves, whether or not it starts to spill, whether there's 83 00:07:27,920 --> 00:07:32,400 any color fastest changes. And we would obviously evaluate that and look into it further to make 84 00:07:32,400 --> 00:07:37,360 sure that it wouldn't happen for anything that gets put into production. So here, next to the 85 00:07:37,360 --> 00:07:42,640 engineering area, we actually have our handy-dandy washer and dryer. So usually, I'm running up and 86 00:07:42,640 --> 00:07:47,760 down those steps in order to get my steps in and work these bad boys, whether we do something like 87 00:07:47,760 --> 00:07:52,560 three washes and three dries or whatever the team is looking for. Since I have one here, 88 00:07:52,560 --> 00:07:56,400 I'll show you how it works, which you should obviously already know how to wash and dry, 89 00:07:56,400 --> 00:08:02,080 but you know what? You never know. And we as our standard mothers gain laundry detergent that has 90 00:08:02,080 --> 00:08:06,080 a synthetic smell that leaves everyone wondering, why the hell are you doing this? Because usually, 91 00:08:06,080 --> 00:08:12,240 when we're running it for long periods of time, over and over again, it just absolutely, it has 92 00:08:12,240 --> 00:08:16,160 everything smelling like fresh laundry. So another thing that's super interesting with laundry, 93 00:08:16,240 --> 00:08:21,360 get a load of this, CGSB, which is the Canadian General Standards Board, has actually put out a 94 00:08:21,360 --> 00:08:26,800 disclaimer for their home laundering conditions saying that they can't necessarily keep totally 95 00:08:26,800 --> 00:08:32,640 up to date with the washer and dryer industry, because essentially what they're doing is they 96 00:08:32,640 --> 00:08:37,520 care more about the effectiveness of washing and drying and not necessarily keeping your clothes in 97 00:08:37,520 --> 00:08:42,640 mint condition and keeping them for long periods of time. Therefore, they always recommend, and so 98 00:08:42,640 --> 00:08:49,440 do I, to follow the care instructions because all of this high heat and high with washing as well as 99 00:08:49,440 --> 00:08:54,720 drying and that really fast tumbling process is essentially just deteriorating your clothes. 100 00:08:54,720 --> 00:09:00,320 So that's one key laundry tip is to always follow the care instructions. Lastly, another thing that 101 00:09:00,320 --> 00:09:06,720 we do in house a lot is getting the weight of a garment. So this, for example, is a GSM cutter, 102 00:09:06,720 --> 00:09:12,240 and GSM stands for grams per square meter, which can be used to calculate density. We put this 103 00:09:12,240 --> 00:09:17,200 little rubber plate in behind, we put it on top, and when you can see it actually has a 104 00:09:18,080 --> 00:09:25,200 little blade in there in order to cut it, and this will create a perfect circular diameter of 113 105 00:09:25,200 --> 00:09:32,960 millimeters. So hold it down, punch through it, peel it away, and there you go. You would take 106 00:09:32,960 --> 00:09:39,840 this and basically weigh it, and that would give you an accurate GSM, at least preliminary. Of course, 107 00:09:39,840 --> 00:09:44,640 we do a lot of third-party testing as well to confirm because you never know because this is 108 00:09:44,640 --> 00:09:50,240 not necessarily, of course, standardized conditions. Therefore, it's always good to do that preliminary 109 00:09:50,240 --> 00:09:54,960 first and then always check again beforehand. That is it for testing. We are always looking 110 00:09:54,960 --> 00:10:01,200 towards innovating and adapting and having new standards going forward in order to match any 111 00:10:01,200 --> 00:10:06,480 real-world scenarios and create the best, most long-lasting products, and hopefully you learned 112 00:10:06,480 --> 00:10:09,760 a little bit more about fabric testing and maybe a laundry chip in there too.