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Whenever you shop for electronics, it's pretty easy to get lost in a discombobulating vortex

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of numbers that manufacturers throw at you to try to entice you to buy their gadgets.

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Ah! But, there are some that are really just fluff you can more or less ignore.

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So what are they? Let's start out with one of the most common and most useless specifications you'll see.

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A CPU's clock speed, usually given in gigahertz.

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You'll see this as being one of the first things listed for most PCs that you buy,

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and it's very easy to think, hmm, more gigahertz equals faster computer!

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See here's the thing, you can't really compare clock speeds between different computers.

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Processors have all sorts of other differentiating factors that are more important, such as the

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specific micro-architecture they use. Each new generation of CPU's typically contains micro-architectural improvements in the silicon

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that can give you higher instructions per clock cycle, better branch prediction, and

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more power efficiency. All of which are more important than the raw number of gigahertz.

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Clock speeds only really matter when you compare chips with the same micro-architecture and

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the same number of cores. Otherwise, you're not going to want to fret over this too much, it's kind of like how

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a Kia Rio and an Aston Martin Vantage can both reach 100 miles per hour, but the Aston

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Martin is going to get up to speed much faster and be far more powerful and responsive.

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Next up, let's talk about those eye-popping speeds that SSD companies put on their product

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labels. It's easy these days to find SSDs that claim to give you speeds at or above 3,000 megabytes

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per second, but those figures can be misleading.

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And while it's true that the NVMe-based SSDs that boast this kind of performance are indeed

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faster across the board than their older SATA counterparts, it doesn't mean you can

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completely trust their numbers either. You see, there are two main issues with just looking at that spec.

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Those high megabytes per second numbers refer to sequential performance, meaning it's not

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a good metric of performance if you spend most of your time watching videos, working

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in Excel, or serving up spicy takes on Twitter.

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During typical, everyday use, the random performance, given in eye-ops, is more important, as you'll

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usually be accessing smaller pieces of information from different places on the drive than large

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sequential chunks of data located in a physically contiguous spot.

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But let's say, for the sake of argument, you do work with large amounts of sequential

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data because you're a video editor or some such thing.

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Even in this situation, the numbers on the spec sheet often aren't reliable.

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Many SSDs have a relatively small amount of fast cache that's used when you first start

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moving files around, but as time goes on, sometimes even after just a few seconds, speeds

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will drop off precipitously as the cache fills and the SSD starts using the slower portion

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of its flash memory. This isn't to say all SSD manufacturers are dishonest, but some of them will put down

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a speed that you'll only realistically get for a short period of time.

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So be sure to read independent reviews and see how long the SSD you're interested in

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can maintain performance at or near what it says on the spec sheet.

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Finally, let's touch on a common letdown if you're shopping for monitors.

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HDR support. HDR, or High Dynamic Range, is a set of standards that can give you better contrast and clearer

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colors. But a monitor simply saying it has HDR support doesn't tell you very much, since there are

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a lot of monitors out there that technically accept an HDR signal, but the picture ends

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up looking like absolute garbage when you turn it on. So why does this happen?

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The two primary culprits are when the monitor can't get bright enough, as adequate brightness

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is crucial for HDR to look correct, and when the monitor can't display a wide enough color

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gamut or give enough color accuracy to take full advantage of the HDR signal.

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So instead of jumping on a monitor just because it says it has HDR support, check its peak

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brightness rating. Something that's certified for VESA Display HDR 600 or higher should at least get adequately

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bright with Display HDR 1000 or higher being ideal.

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A monitor that can cover at least 90% of the DCI-P3 color gamut is probably also a decent

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bet. But if you really want to be sure, read reviews where an actual human being looked at the

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screen with HDR turned on. Are there specs that manufacturers push that frustrate you?

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Let us know what they are in the comments and we might talk about them in a future episode.

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Talk about your frustrations. Woah, that was a tech wiki alright, thanks for watching guys, like the video, dislike

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