WEBVTT

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Google is watching you. In fact, they even got sued for doing it while you were in incognito mode.

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But little things like law suits aren't going to stop them from doing it again.

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They make more than enough money by serving you eerily relevant ads to make up for any fines.

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So if nothing's going to stop them, well, you should just give up and throw in the towel, right?

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Of course not. In part one of this series on de-googling your life,

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we showed you some options to loosen Google's iron grip,

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some of which you could argue are even superior to Google's services.

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And we're back again with de-googled options for password management,

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cloud storage, maps, ad management, and YouTube.

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That's right! Five whole ways that you can give Google the finger.

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Or six fingers if you count our sponsor. One of the most convenient services Google offers that you might not even think about that you're

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using is also one of the most dangerous.

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The password manager that is built in to Chrome and Android.

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I mean, it's great on the surface. You just log into your Google account and the passwords for other sites fill in automatically

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everywhere you go. Super convenient. But what happens if somebody gets into your Google account?

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Not only will all of your Google services be accessible because they all use that one login,

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but all of the accounts stored inside it will be exposed to.

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It's kind of like a $200 for the price of one special for account hijackers.

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Now, I'd get if you still want to have a Google account. That's totally fine.

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But you can lower your risk by using a non-Google password manager.

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Of course, it feels these days like everybody has a password manager, so which one do you trust?

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Well, the ultimate in privacy is going to be hosting your own on a computer that you control

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using KeyPass or Bitwarden. Both of them have been around for a while, are open source, and work on pretty much anything.

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KeyPass is single device only, but Bitwarden can even sync across multiple devices.

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And if you want, it can sync to the cloud as well.

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If you're doing that, you might also want to consider the competition.

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For a mainstream choice, we like one password. Not only does it tick all of the boxes with support for every big operating system,

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pass key support, two factor codes for secure login, and more,

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it also has its own twist that even if one password were to suffer a major leak,

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like what happened to LastPass in 2022, there wouldn't be any danger.

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When you sign up, you're given a random secret code, and that code with your password

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is needed to unlock your vault anytime you log in on a new device.

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What that means is even if somebody got your login credentials,

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and even if they had the file with your vault in it, they can't easily decrypt your data,

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at least with today's computers. Their app is pretty good too.

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Moving on, Proton, the Google But For Privacy company that we brought up in part one,

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also offers a password manager that's gotten really good and really quickly.

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It has support for making burner emails or aliases,

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two factor support, pass key support, and it very recently gained the ability to lock your vault

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with a different password from your account password. Meaning, even if you're logged into your Proton account,

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your passwords are still safe if, say, a nosy family member decides to look through your computer.

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Now, the fine details vary, so you're going to want to try a couple of them before you settle,

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but the way that they work is pretty similar across the board.

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You download the app or browser extension, create an account, and start storing your passwords.

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With the appropriate permissions configured on your device, just like Google's password manager, they should automatically detect when you log in

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to a new website or app and offer to store your credentials.

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Most of them also offer to create random passwords for you,

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so you don't even have to think about what to use. Once you've decided on one you like,

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you're going to need to export your passwords from your old basic manager,

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and I'm going to assume it's Google Passwords here. Open it up, click the settings gear, then click export.

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You'll get a CSV file that you can then import to the password manager of your choice.

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For one password, you would go to your account settings, then click your name in the top right, then import.

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Click either CSV file or a different password manager,

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choose the vault that you want to put your passwords into, then drop the CSV into the upload box and click continue.

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You can pick and choose what to carry over if you want, and when you're done, you can apply your labels.

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The process is pretty much the same for the other password managers out there,

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and most of them are going to have a page like one passwords with the steps that you need to follow.

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No matter what you go with to manage passwords though, a two-factor app that gives you login codes is a must.

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It is much more secure than getting these codes via email or especially via SMS.

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Now, most password managers these days have two-factor support built in,

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which is convenient, but that convenience of having everything in one place

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comes with the risk of having everything in one place,

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and we would strongly recommend a separate app.

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But again though, which one? Our main pick is Entei Auth.

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Yeah, the same Entei as in part one. It works everywhere and can either be used in the cloud with end-to-end encryption

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or on a single device without the need for an account.

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Entei's UI is well thought out and easy to use, plus it even shows you the next code if the current one is about to expire

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so you don't have to wait for it to roll over before you start typing.

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You can even pin, tag, and search your sites, which makes it a lot easier to manage a big list compared to Google Authenticator.

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They call it a labor of love on their GitHub page, and it really looks like one.

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Authy is another okay choice with a pleasing look and feel,

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but compared to Entei, it offers only basic search, which is fine for a lot of people,

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but there are a couple of things to watch out for. Their desktop app is no longer supported as of March,

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and your account login is tied to your phone number by default.

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So if you change your number, you will need to make sure that you update it

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or you can end up locked out of your account. The good news is that recovering your account only takes a few days.

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If that happens. And there's not a major security implication to this

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because if someone gets access to your phone number, they would also need your backup password in order to get your codes.

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Now, if you want to use something other than those two options, that's probably fine.

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Just make sure that it's encrypted and secure if it synchronizes across devices,

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or that it never leaves your phone. Whatever you use, the way to add codes is pretty much the same.

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Go to the site or app you want to secure, enable two-factor authentication,

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then on your app, tap add and scan the QR code.

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Enter the code the app gives you into the site, and you should be good to go.

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Just please make sure you put your recovery codes somewhere safe,

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and not in your password manager if you can avoid it.

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If you can't scan the QR code, by the way, for some reason, most sites and apps will let you manually type a secret key instead.

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Now migrating from Google Authenticator is a little tricky, but not too bad.

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You can export your codes as QR codes by tapping the hamburger menu,

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then transfer accounts, then export. Select the accounts you want to transfer,

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and you'll get a series of QR codes. At this point, though, you will need another device with a camera

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that is logged in with the authenticator that you want to use, and then you can use the import function.

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In Entaeoth, you get thereby tapping the hamburger menu, then data, then import codes.

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Choose Google Authenticator, then scan the codes.

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One by one. Yeah, it's a bit of a pain, because Google expects you to only ever do this

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if you're upgrading to a new device, but once it's done, it's done, and you're free!

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Free to go anywhere you like! As long as you don't mind big Google following you around.

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That's right, Google Maps is so dominant

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that when Apple Maps came out in 2012, many people considered it literally unusable,

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in spite of Apple's efforts, because of how poorly it compared

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to Google's worldwide fleet of vehicles that maps out the roads and takes photos as they go.

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Now, one popular alternative used to be Waze, but that has also been owned by Google since 2013.

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Apple Maps, speaking of, finally launched a web app.

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It went into beta, actually, the day that we wrote this, and, bang, or even MapQuest,

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can stand in for Google Maps in a pinch. But in the spirit of de-Googling,

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we kind of wanted to find something a little more open,

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like OpenStreetMap, which makes maps from user submissions

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and has support for front-ends that include some pretty advanced features.

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Magic Earth, for example, is available on iOS and Android,

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and on top of offering turn-by-turn navigation and crowdsourced traffic data,

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it can also act as a smart dash cam with driver assistance to warn of things like

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forward collision, stop-and-go traffic, lane departure, traffic signs, and more.

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Now, you probably don't want to rely on those features for safety,

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and we did encounter some odd behavior, even just in the basic search functionality,

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but it's free for personal use, so I'd say it's at least worth giving it a try.

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And the same goes for OSAMand. It has many of the features that Magic Earth does,

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but also offers plugins to enhance its functions

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beyond even Google Maps. The only problem is that what I would call

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18643 52 Avenue becomes 52 Avenue 18643 Euro-style,

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and I'm not allowed to just type in AVE.

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It has to be Avenue. I mean, look, you can learn to live with it,

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but I can also see why most North Americans don't bother.

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One last option is to use a search engine like DuckDuckGo or Coggy, who we talked about in part one.

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Both use Apple Maps, though Coggy offers other sources too,

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and while neither has the features or tight integration Google does,

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Coggy offers the option to start navigating via Google Maps, Apple Maps, or Waze,

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so that you can, I don't know, use Coggy to search

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and then just use Google to... Okay, maybe it's mostly only useful for trip planning

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rather than day-to-day navigation. Now for a big one.

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Google Drive is so common for cloud storage that for a long time,

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we even used Google's lax storage limits to back up our entire petabyte server.

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It's convenient, especially to quickly share files, and their privacy policy claims that they encrypt your data

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and don't use it for advertising, so a secondary Google account just for Drive

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could be an option if you don't mind some Google in your life.

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You know, like a cheat day. We are de-Googling,

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and that means exploring other options. There's the big ones, like Dropbox, iCloud Drive,

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and OneDrive, who all also offer encrypted storage

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and even extras like protected vaults that require a password to access.

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But if your email is also with the company you're using for storage,

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you need to be careful what you store there in case of a data breach.

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One way that you can make sure that you're secure is to encrypt your files locally on your computer

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using something like CryptoMater. Then you can sync those files to any cloud storage you like,

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though you won't be able to easily share anything uploaded this way unless you also share your encryption key.

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If you want something a little different, then there are other options like ProtonDrive.

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We mentioned these guys earlier and in part one with their email service.

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And while keeping all of our eggs in one basket is one of the reasons that we're skipping out on Google,

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Proton offers the ability to use a secondary password

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to unlock your data after logging in, again,

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to prevent someone with access to your computer from digging through your stuff.

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Proton's biggest problem, though, is that you can't purchase more storage

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than they offer in their plans. And if you're not on a family plan,

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that limits you to just 500 gigs, even at the ultimate tier.

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Now, they do sometimes allow you to upgrade to their older visionary plan

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that gives you multiple terabytes of storage, but you're forced to subscribe on an annual basis

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for a pretty hefty sum. Still, if you're not backing up massive amounts of data,

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ProtonDrive is very Google-like, but not run by Google.

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Of course, it's not run by you either, is it? And if you've got the hardware to run it,

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whether it's a spare or dedicated, that's where ownCloud and NextCloud come in.

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Both of these will need you to forward ports on your router or install a remote network access app like Tailscale

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in order to access or share your files away from home, but for your trouble,

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you get way more control than you do with a cloud storage company.

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Both of them are free to download open-source software with paid extras.

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OwnCloud is tuned more for our professional setting with Teams, while NextCloud has a host of features

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that might appeal more to home users, including a TrueNAS plugin that makes it easier

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to set up on a network storage PC that you might already be running.

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The last big drive alternative we'll talk about is the Swiss Post Services Trezorit.

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It's favored by governments and NGOs for its strong privacy and security,

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making it a great choice for the paranoid, and on top of that,

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it's actually a pretty good service in its own right. It even provides a plugin

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if you want to stick to using Gmail and has apps for every major OS,

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even a Linux terminal app for your NAS. The files you upload and share are end-to-end encrypted,

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and if you're extra paranoid, you can also require the person on the other end

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to verify their email address before they're allowed to download it.

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All of this comes at a cost, though, with the free version only providing

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three gigabytes of total storage and the biggest package coming in at four terabytes

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and costing significantly more than Google's options,

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though I guess you get what you pay for. Now, speaking of paying for things,

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I've made my position clear that the ads on ad-supported content are the price

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and that blocking them is pretty much piracy,

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but I've also made it clear many times that I'm not gonna tell you what you should do,

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and the reality of it is a lot of you are gonna pirate,

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so as your friendly neighborhood tech tips man, it's my responsibility to show you the right way to do it,

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starting with DNS. We talked about DNS in part one

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and several services offer the ability to add content filters to their responses.

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These are great for apps that normally wouldn't be able to use Adblock

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and they can even block ads in mobile apps.

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Again, you can learn more about that in part one, which we'll link down below.

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The problem with these services is that they limit the number of lookups

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that you get per month, and after that, you've gotta pay.

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That's where Pyhole comes in. Pyhole lets you run your own DNS filter at home

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using whichever servers you like, not just those filtering ones,

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and it's pretty straightforward to set up. We did a whole video on it a few years ago,

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and I'm just gonna link that down below since it really hasn't changed much.

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So once you've got it set up, just make sure you don't forget the step

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to adjust your router settings, both so that your Pyhole has a reserved IP address

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that doesn't change, and to make sure that that address is the DNS server

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that your router points all the devices on your network to.

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As for ad blocking on the web, if you're running Brave,

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one of the browsers that we featured last time, the built-in shields feature is pretty decent,

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and I would probably just stick with that since anything else is gonna make you stand out

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like a sore thumb among Brave users, making you much easier to identify and track,

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even if you're using a VPN. For everyone else,

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you block origin seems to be by far the best option these days.

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It offers a default filter that will block most ads on the internet,

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and that allows you to manually allow content from ad delivery networks or domains

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that you trust or want to support. You can use custom filters to fine-tune your experience,

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just be aware that adding too many filters can actually slow down your browser rather than speed it up,

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so try not to overdo it. Another cool function of Ublock Origin

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is that it can handle JavaScript blocking, which can reduce your computer's chance

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of getting infected with malware. Ublock Origin is available for desktop browsers

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based on Chromium or Firefox that can accept extensions,

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and it can be installed manually if you're not able to use their extension stores

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for some reason or another. It should be noted though that by this time in 2025, manifest V3's requirements

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are going to break it for browsers based on Chromium if nothing changes.

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In that case then, there's Ublock Lite, which has the core feature of blocking ads

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with filter lists, but doesn't offer the ability to choose, for example,

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whether and when to enable JavaScript on a given site.

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Desktop Safari users, meanwhile, basically just have access to the extensions

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that are available in the app store, just like on mobile. So for them, I'd say AdGuard is a pretty good choice for both.

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It can do a lot of the basic things that Ublock Lite does,

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but with some extra customizations available. Just remember to enable it in the extension section

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under Safari settings menu, and allow it to access all sites.

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Now, since some schools and workplaces

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have rules against installing ad blockers, you may not be able to do so.

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The good news is you can get most of the way there by disabling JavaScript on your browser here.

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Then, as you find sites that need it, you can allow them one by one like this.

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It is an extra step, but doing this can even get you past some paywalls

00:17:02.320 --> 00:17:05.720
and speed up your browser while also removing one of the common ways

00:17:05.720 --> 00:17:11.560
that malware can get into your system, and one of the common ways that Google tracks you online.

00:17:11.560 --> 00:17:16.240
Now for the bid one, the site that you are almost certainly using right now,

00:17:16.240 --> 00:17:20.120
YouTube. One way out is to hope that your favorite creators

00:17:20.120 --> 00:17:23.240
are using some alternative video hosting site,

00:17:23.240 --> 00:17:27.600
subflow planers, woo! But let's be realistic,

00:17:27.600 --> 00:17:32.520
most creators aren't, and even if they were, most of their viewers aren't going to follow them there.

00:17:32.520 --> 00:17:35.000
So, what do you do?

00:17:35.960 --> 00:17:41.320
Well, one option is to download videos using one of these tools and watch them offline.

00:17:41.320 --> 00:17:46.440
You'd still have to browse YouTube to discover content though, which would give Google lots of juicy information

00:17:46.440 --> 00:17:49.840
about your preferences. So, how about an app?

00:17:49.840 --> 00:17:52.920
Like FreeTube, LibreTube, or Yati.

00:17:52.920 --> 00:17:57.880
These apps hook into YouTube for realsies, get around the almighty algorithm,

00:17:57.880 --> 00:18:01.880
do not display Google's ads or trackers, and if you import your subscriptions

00:18:01.880 --> 00:18:06.160
by using Google Takeout, you might even get notified when there are new videos on your feed.

00:18:06.160 --> 00:18:10.520
Now, importing from Google Takeout sounds hard, but it's actually pretty easy.

00:18:10.520 --> 00:18:14.240
Just log into your Google account dashboard, go to data and privacy,

00:18:14.240 --> 00:18:18.360
then scroll down to download your data and choose what you'd like to export.

00:18:18.360 --> 00:18:24.160
In this case, you would deselect all, then check YouTube and YouTube music.

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Click the all YouTube data included link and select only what you want to download.

00:18:28.960 --> 00:18:32.120
For these apps, all we need are the history and subscriptions,

00:18:32.120 --> 00:18:35.160
and history is actually optional. If you do want it,

00:18:35.160 --> 00:18:39.760
just make sure you go to multiple formats and choose JSON for history.

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Once you're satisfied, click Next, optionally choose to have this data exported periodically

00:18:44.240 --> 00:18:47.520
or just once, then click Create Export.

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Depending on the amount of data, it could take some time, but eventually you'll get an email with a download link.

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You can then unzip it and import everything into your front end.

00:18:55.760 --> 00:19:01.080
In FreeTube, you'll find it under Data Settings. For Android users, there's GreyJay and NewPipe.

00:19:01.080 --> 00:19:04.280
They hook into popular streaming services, including YouTube,

00:19:04.280 --> 00:19:08.160
with plug-in support that promises to add even more services in the future.

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Everything shows up on your feed and they store your playback history,

00:19:11.200 --> 00:19:14.720
subscriptions, and your playlists locally on your phone or tablet.

00:19:14.760 --> 00:19:18.960
There's no iOS or desktop app for either, though, and according to the FAQ,

00:19:18.960 --> 00:19:22.840
there isn't going to be one anytime soon. If that's a problem for you,

00:19:22.840 --> 00:19:26.680
you can also just run your own YouTube using NVIDIAs,

00:19:26.680 --> 00:19:30.560
which lets you fully customize the way that pages look if you know how.

00:19:30.560 --> 00:19:35.560
You can even use those other apps with it. Now, like the Cirque search engine from part one,

00:19:35.560 --> 00:19:40.200
public NVIDIA servers do exist, but using them means that you are trusting

00:19:40.200 --> 00:19:43.860
that the people running them aren't just gonna track you like Google does,

00:19:43.860 --> 00:19:47.900
or even insert malware. For that reason, it's best to use Tor

00:19:47.900 --> 00:19:51.700
or a virtual private network, like our frequent sponsor PIA,

00:19:51.700 --> 00:19:54.800
who we're gonna have linked down below, to hide your IP address

00:19:54.800 --> 00:19:59.540
whenever you're connecting to servers that you don't own. Since the ones listed on the NVIDIA site

00:19:59.540 --> 00:20:02.540
must have no analytics, that makes one fewer way

00:20:02.540 --> 00:20:06.180
that you can be tracked online. However, these servers are not guaranteed

00:20:06.180 --> 00:20:10.340
to be as reliable as YouTube's. I mean, say whatever you want about YouTube,

00:20:10.340 --> 00:20:14.700
it rarely goes down. But what if there were another way?

00:20:14.700 --> 00:20:19.420
Okay, this is funny. As it turns out, you don't need anything extra

00:20:19.420 --> 00:20:22.460
or any weird workarounds to watch YouTube without ads.

00:20:22.460 --> 00:20:25.860
And I'm not kidding when I say this is actually a weird trick.

00:20:25.860 --> 00:20:30.340
Try this right now. Open up a private window or a browser that you don't use very much.

00:20:30.340 --> 00:20:35.100
And then go to Bing. Copy the address of this video right now

00:20:35.100 --> 00:20:39.460
and paste it into Bing. Then click on the thumbnail somewhere around here,

00:20:39.700 --> 00:20:44.380
and what, what? Where's the ad?

00:20:44.380 --> 00:20:49.740
You're not signed into Bing or YouTube. And assuming you used a random browser

00:20:49.740 --> 00:20:53.020
that you don't usually use, you've got no ad block active.

00:20:53.020 --> 00:20:57.460
So yeah, you need to put up with Bing's crummy interface,

00:20:57.460 --> 00:21:01.420
but either Microsoft is paying Google to be able to show YouTube videos

00:21:01.420 --> 00:21:05.500
on Bing without any ads, or maybe neither of them ever noticed

00:21:05.500 --> 00:21:09.180
because no one uses Bing. Either way, I don't know.

00:21:09.220 --> 00:21:11.420
Free YouTube premium, let's go Bing!

00:21:13.340 --> 00:21:16.820
All right, that's not really a reasonable alternative to YouTube.

00:21:16.820 --> 00:21:20.540
And like those alternative front-ends and those apps,

00:21:20.540 --> 00:21:24.660
it's just YouTube with extra steps still. And if Google decides to get rid of them,

00:21:24.660 --> 00:21:28.900
they will all disappear. But for now, we've at least given you some options

00:21:28.900 --> 00:21:33.700
to enjoy your favorite creators without giving Google quite as much information.

00:21:33.700 --> 00:21:37.780
Of course, we aren't done yet. And for part three, we'd like to hear from you guys.

00:21:37.780 --> 00:21:42.420
What services do you recommend? What Google services do you want to stop using?

00:21:42.420 --> 00:21:45.860
Let us know down below, while I let you know about our sponsor.

00:21:45.860 --> 00:21:49.020
If you guys enjoyed this video, go check out part one of this series

00:21:49.020 --> 00:21:54.660
for more on how you too can rid yourself of the Alphabet Company.

00:21:54.660 --> 00:21:57.100
Anything sounds ominous when you say it like that.
