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I always get concerned when companies make up their own certifications.

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90 plus platinum? Not a thing. And if it was, it would probably be platinum colored, not gold,

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which makes me wonder how much of anything else on here is actually real. I assume this is real.

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It supports 180 to 200 volt AC input, which makes sense. There's no way you'd blow the

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circuit before you manage to pull 3000 watts out of a 120 volt circuit. Is it time to open it?

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Actually, before we do that, isn't this the icon that means not dishwasher safe?

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Yeah, I think so. They're correct.

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Technically not wrong. Oh, are you opening up a real power supply?

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Yeah, so this is a 1600i. You kind of want two of these to get over 3000 watts.

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Yeah. Kyle's our lead creator, warehouse engineer, and he apparently spent the last

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few weekends learning about power supplies after being put on the spot last time we opened up

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this catchy power supply. So hopefully he's able to provide us a little bit more insight this time

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around. We'll see how good his studying skills are. So Kyle, you've already opened this, right?

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Yes. Be careful. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Oh, right. This is the part of the video where we say,

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don't do this. We do not recommend opening up any kind of AC to DC power supply.

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There are capacitors in here that will store enough power to throw you back across the room.

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Maybe not quite that much. CRT TVs, yes. These maybe not quite so much, but you could die, okay?

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Bear, is that fair to say? Yeah. Okay, cool. I wouldn't say, yeah, you're not going to get

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heated across the room. With a CRT maybe? We don't have CRTs anymore. Well, some of us do.

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That's good for you. I just bought a CRT. David just bought a CRT.

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All of the four people here, half of them still have CRTs.

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Don't you just use scan lines and butters? Or is it just not the same? No, it's not the same.

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Okay. Well, can I try first? Yes. Okay.

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And the comments will correct all of us, sir. Yeah. This should kind of be all you need to know,

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though, because this is what a quality 1600 watt power supply looks like next to a random

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banggood.com 3400 watt power supply. Look at the size of this primary side cap. Okay? Holy bananas.

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The size doesn't matter, Linus. Well, capacity does. Generally speaking,

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size corresponds to capacity. What is the capacity written on top of this one?

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All right. Give me a sec. Give me a sec. Well, yeah, but it's just because it's written on it,

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doesn't mean, okay. Uh, 454, 680 microfarads. Okay. 270 each. 270 each. So the size clearly

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mattered a little bit. Okay. What are you insecure?

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You don't have a witty comeback for that. Let's get a shot of the 270. 270. He doubts me. Hold on.

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Go back to wide. Go back to wide. Go back to wide. He doubts me. He's double checking. No, no, no.

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You're double checking. Actually, I'm checking something else. So this is Nippon. I'm butchering

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the pronunciation of that. Yeah. But that's a good brand. The problem is, so does that,

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but it's so fuzzy that I think they just silkscreen whatever the flip they wanted on to the outside.

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Because look how clear the silkscreen is on that. Yes. You can tell exactly what the flip that is.

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Here it is on this guy, on these primary side caps. Yeah, you can't, like, yeah.

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And even the DPI on this is so much higher. Even like the O, like this, this band that you see on

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Nippon caps, it's sharp. You see that? On this one, it's super fuzzy. And like,

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you could just scratch it off. That's nowhere that says Nippon. It does. It's just really cheap.

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I also couldn't help noticing that the definitely genuine Nippon ones have metal tops, and these

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have plastic tops, which they might have, they might have other models that have a plastic top or

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whatever. But any differences we're seeing here, not great indicators, I think is fair enough to say.

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Well, we can already see that it's rated for less than even the secondaries on this bad boy.

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These are both, what are they, 470 microfarad each. To give some context for why this capacity

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matters, here's Alex with a good power supply. What, you're just putting a spot like that?

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Yeah. Oh, well these guys right here, they do your 400 volt stuff. The capacity of them doesn't

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matter so much for your system stability as your, like, overall efficiency of the unit.

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Okay. The ones down here are the ones that matter for your, like, 12 volt rail, and you're

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3090 not shutting your system down. And wait a second. That's all I've got? These little wimpy

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boys right here? Okay, we've got 2200 microfarad, 16 volt. How does that compare to Corsair?

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Same. Well, I've got five of them per power supply for the 12 volt rail.

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I have 16. Now that matters a lot, because when all of a sudden you kick on a game,

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your 3080 or your 30, a heck, your 3050 Ti, okay, is going to suddenly draw 12 volt power from the

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system. And if you don't have enough of a buffer in these capacitors, well your voltages can drop,

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which can cause your system to, well, worst case scenario, it's completely shut off.

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Well, or in the case of, like, a 3090, your voltage doesn't drop and it just, your amperage goes to

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the moon. Which is bad. Yeah, which is when your power supply goes. I feel like I'm probably

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missing some really sketchy stuff, though. Oh, we're missing, we're missing one of these boys

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who was supposed to be on the board here. Well, and you just missed the other thing that's missing.

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Oh, wait, what is it? What's supposed to be here? Wait, is this just bridged? Are these just wires?

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What's supposed to be there? It's something called a common mode choke. Wait, they just,

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they just soldered wires across it. Yes, and that's not a common mode choke. I can guarantee that.

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What the hell? That's a good one. That's a good one. It's a rare hollow foil. It's a rare mode

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To be clear, it's not unheard of for a PCB to have solder points that go unused. For example,

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many GPU PCBs, if they're designed for use in both consumer cards and server cards,

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will have solder points for power connectors, both on the top for the gaming variants,

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and at the back for the server variants, since most servers are either 3U or 4U and won't

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accommodate this power nonsense sticking out the top of them. But this is not that.

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This is missing components.

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Okay, does it get worse or does it get better? It would still probably work. I mean, all it does

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is stop common mode current, which is basically current flowing in the same direction, both on

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live and neutral. So, referred to as live and return. So, neutral is generally where your

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current returns, and you don't want current going opposite to where it should be going,

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returning to. So, the common mode choke stops there from happening. Is the simplest way to

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explain it without going into too much detail? So, probably it'll work, but it's not good.

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It means half your EMI filter is just not there. Got it, cool. That one has one, at least one,

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and probably more X and Y class capacitors. Yeah, right, okay. I think this is the bare minimum

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needed to make it turn on. Cool. Is there anything else that really jumped out at us?

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Not really. I mean, from there, we go into a standard full bridge rectifier,

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then we go into just a regular smoothing capacitor, and then this is pretty interesting.

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So, we got this wrong the last time we reviewed a power supply. It's an NTC, but it doesn't do

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anything with temperature. It's actually an inrush current limiter. Cool. So, it's when you

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plug this in, you don't trip your breaker by charging these caps. Oh, that's pretty cool.

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Yeah, right. So, as it heats up, it loads its resistance. So, after the inrush event has happened,

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its resistance lowers down to something where it's, in theory, negligible, but they have this relay

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here because it's actually not once you run enough current through it. Okay. So, this relay,

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once the inrush current event is over, actually pulls this out of the circuit.

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Got it, cool. Yeah, that's pretty cool. Well, I'm good to go then. Yeah. Let's power up some 3080s.

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Your resistor. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. We can't, so, we can't do anything right now until we take

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this board and resolder this resistor over here. Wait, what, why? Because it's not connected.

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It's not soldered properly. Oh. And that's one half of a current sensing resistor needed to

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actually make the power factor correction work properly. Oh my god, it's not soldered. Yeah.

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It's just completely not soldered. So, I know, yeah, that's one thing I noticed.

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Well, how many other things are not soldered? I do not know. That's the only one I saw.

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It don't work without the broken resistor.

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Anyway, did we swap the connectors for the fans? You reassembled this. Did you switch the fan

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connector? This looks almost certainly like it's supposed to be here for how much slack is on it.

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So, the funny thing was this whole fan arrangement is pretty janky.

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In what way? You got two fans per power supply. You got two fan connectors per power supply,

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seems pretty good to me. Yes, just for some reason, when I took this apart, I remember

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one of these fans, the case fans, was plugged into this location. And the other one was plugged

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into another one. I don't know if it matters. Probably doesn't. But there's a lot of things that

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are a bit weird when you try and like put two power supplies together.

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Look, Mom, I found a zip tie. Oh, yeah, that was me. I cut that off because I needed to pull the

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board up. Okay, we ready? Yeah. Okay, let's pull the board up. I think we should teamwork this.

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Alex, can you support the power supply at this angle? You're going to need to do it from that

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side because David's got a film. Oh, boy. Right into the solder iron. Okay. So, Alex, if I don't

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have to support the power supply, that would be amazing. If I can just hold the board, you got it?

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No, no, just the power supply, the outer housing. Oh, yeah. Got that. Okay. And then we can just

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tuck this boy away. See you later. Okay, and then I will just push the resistors down. So,

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when the solder on the back is molten, I'm going to stick the leg through the hole,

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and then it should just grab on. Okay, so you ready? Okay. This one, this one, this one. Should we do

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this one first? Yeah, we can do the top one first. One sec. Oh, I mean, I'm just going to heat up the

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solder and hope to heck that this freaking solder iron has enough power to do it. Oh, oh, oh, oh!

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Oh, I see it. Yes! Yes, Terran! Yes! Okay, it's crowning. Can we post that? Okay, did it go through?

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Yeah. Do we have full penetration? Yes, we do. Okay. All right, just like clean it up. I'm doing

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the one next to it. Let's go. Okay, sure. Just hold it there. The one below it is already molten.

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I'll see you in five minutes. No, no, this one will be... Oh, yeah! It's already good. Periltration!

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Given it a little... Okay. For the nation. Okay, all right. Okay? Yes. Oh, no, the resistors the wrong

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way around. Shut up, it is not. And if it was, you wouldn't know it. The resistors the wrong way around.

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That was awesome. I can't believe that you managed to save this thing before we actually

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powered it on, because otherwise this wouldn't have been much of a video, would it? It would have

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slowed out probably. Unless it did. I don't know. Not having a resistor somewhere seems like the

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resistor is probably there for a reason. I don't know. I mean, it's used, it's used to current

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sense, right? So it's a very low resistance resistor. This coil looking thing at the end,

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yeah, is... I forgot what the thing is called. But, oh, it's a gate driver. It's a gate driving

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transformer basically. There's a whole bunch of cables wound together, and then there's a thin

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cable. So I think that thin cable is the signal driver and induces a voltage in there and then

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like makes that same voltage go across all these other lines. Right. These copper windings are

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supposed to be laminated so they don't touch each other. The lamination is broken on a couple of

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these. I don't know if that's a problem. Okay. Eh. Good luck everybody. Oh, we need to do one more

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sketchy thing. Oh, one more sketchy thing. I want to power this thing on you guys. You're

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killing me here. In order to know how much the power supply is drawing, normally you'd use

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something like this. Unfortunately, those only work for 110 volts. So I bought this thing right

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here. It's a, it was what, like 20 bucks? Kind of sketchy. Wait, you just put the cable through

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here and then you get a readout. It's sort of, yeah. But wait, how do you get this around the

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cable? Well, that's the sketchy thing that we have to do. Oh my god, you're just going to cut it.

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Yeah. I don't even object. Now viewers, I'm sorry that this is what we're doing, but there is a

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good reason. We're buying cheap crap like this because we bought a very expensive tester that's

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going to be arriving soon, but not super soon because shortage is. So we don't want to blow a

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bunch of money on something that we're just going to replace like immediately. Well, this is the

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part of the video where we tell you not to do this. This is the second part of the job. Yeah,

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this is the, yeah, don't do this. Oh, your power supply isn't that bad compared to this.

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Oh, you already cut it, never mind. Yeah, I just got a lot of electrical tape.

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Yeah, we'll need a lot of electrical tape. If something bad happens, it's going to be a fire.

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So standing there isn't really going to help you much. Are you proud of it, Linus? No.

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For the record, don't you? Yeah, don't do this. Yeah, really though. A lot of the time we say

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don't do this. This is like, for realsies, do not do this. This is 240 volt with just like

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bare ass marettes. Well, that doesn't matter. It doesn't. The electricity doesn't

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fucking care what cable it's going through. Okay, which ones do I put this in?

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We should frame this. This is horrible. Then we spliced in these leads. Okay,

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this thing's terrifying. This is horrible. Where's all that electrical tape at? Do we have it?

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We have electrical tape. Okay, I want electrical tape over this.

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Well, it's not going anywhere, is it? Look, it's a little doggie. Oh, yeah, it is.

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Okay, are we filming? I suggest using a foot power meter for the record.

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Yeah, after we'd already done this. That ship's saved. Well, who needs this

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chumptastic, pinner, little power supply now that I have this boy?

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It's the famously terrible C-Sonic platinum. Yes.

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Oh my god, it fits. Is this heavier than that? Oh, probably. For all the cables hanging off of

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it, this is not a heavy power supply. Okay, here's your GPU power connectors.

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Oh, take her back out. Take her back out. Yeah, go back out.

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You want it like that. Yeah, we'll put this through. Okay, nice.

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Oh no, okay. This is scary. Okay, go ahead and plug it in. You need to come get closer if you're

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going to be part of the shot. Why me? Oh, I was talking to him, but sure, go for it. Okay. I'm so

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eager. Okay, this thing powered up, so that's good. Nice. 209 volts, so we're like right smack on

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the 208 volts we're supposed to have in here. Zero watts, which makes sense because it's not

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doing anything right now. Okay, you might say this puppy has a lot of energy.

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Good luck, everybody. This power supply powers on the system. Here's my RGB. Even when the switch

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is powered off because it's not wired up right. It works. Well, yeah. Well, what do you mean of

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course it does? We had to solder a resistor back into it. Here we go. Man, that's annoying and loud.

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What's our load to stress this thing? Blender. Blender. Okay. That worked best for the Camino.

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Are we at 275 watts already according to this?

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192. Yeah, I guess so. I forgot. This is old Intel ATDT. This thing is a juicy boy.

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Yes. Okay. Sorry, not idle. I am surprised that at idle it is doing like 200 watts.

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I'm not. It's a lot. This is probably not that efficient. Yeah, it's probably not that efficient.

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Oh, you're right. And the efficiency curve of this thing at only a couple hundred watts

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is going to be like freaking terrible. There we go. Now all the fans are spinning.

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Feeling fine.

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Yeah, but I need this one. I need this little cable tie here to keep this riser out of that fan.

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Even at idle, doing nothing. This is drawing 330 watts from the wall.

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Doing absolutely nothing. So does it work? I mean, we haven't made it to 3450 necessarily,

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but we sure as heck got to 2500. We also don't know exactly what the efficiency of this is.

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So 2500 from the wall, sure, according to this thing, but it's clear that we need some more

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sophisticated equipment in order to really put this thing through its paces. Now tell me,

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can our power supply tester do this kind of load? Yes. Really? So we got the good one.

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I got 3500. So like 50 watts more than what this can do is our limit.

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Can we just appreciate how much heat has come off of this? Yeah, it has warmed this room. I literally said that like two minutes ago.

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It has warmed the room, guys. Wow. This is like sitting around the campfire.

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You guys got some marshmallows? I'm just waiting for this thing to blow up.
