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When I first saw the Umbrella Arcade's wall-mounted arcade machine, I had to have it.

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I mean, there's this sleek design. There's the fact that you've got any retro game you could want at your fingertips.

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The fact it doesn't take up any floor space. But the price, 4,400 US dollars, 1,800 for the shell, it's some bent sheet metal.

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Yeah, how is this thing so expensive? I feel like anyone with some spare time and some tools could probably make one themselves.

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I've got some tools in some spare time, or paid time?

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Okay, fine. But here's the deal. You can't use any exotic tools.

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Basically, if you couldn't borrow it from your boomer neighbor, you're not allowed to use it.

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And you have to include an hourly wage in your cost, because your time isn't free.

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Okay, but if I pull it off, it gets to live on the windset for a month.

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What? You heard me? Okay, but the weird handshake. Deal.

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Like this deal we made with our sponsor.

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I want to take on Umbrella's high-end model. They're using a Nook-style computer with a Ryzen 7.

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We can easily match or beat that. Construction-wise, it's just a bunch of sheet metal with holes punched in and bent in shape.

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All we got to do is throw in a monitor, speakers, controls,

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and I guess figure out how to hang it on the wall, and we're good to go. Well, I'd love to just do this whole thing out of wood in like a couple hours and call it a day,

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but that's not really the point of the series. We're trying to remake this thing we found as close as we can to the original style,

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and, you know, learn some new things as we go. You can't use any exotic tools.

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Because I don't have a welder, though, joining all the metal together is not going to be that easy.

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So I think we're still going to have to use some wood, like here on the side panels,

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and then we'll screw the rest of the metal into that wood.

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The control panel electronic, we can just get online.

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I'll order them, they'll show up later. Actually, mounting them is going to be a little tricky because we can't use the laser cutter.

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I'm thinking we'll have to use, they're a whole saw or maybe we've got a big enough step bit, something like that.

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We'll see when we get to it. The thing we can't get around is we're going to have to bend metal,

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but I've got just the thing for that. The rules say I can buy one special tool as long as it's within reach of you guys following along at home.

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This is a sheet metal break, and you can get it at places like Harbor Freight.

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It's not cheap by any means, but it's not expensive compared to our $4,400 arcade machine,

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and once we're done with it, we can throw it on Marketplace and get some of our money back.

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Let's go check out the metal we're actually going to be working with.

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This is 18 gauge steel. It's two foot by four foot, and that's actually going to impact our design choices a little bit.

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Let me explain. Two feet is going to be too narrow for two players to stand at,

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but the four foot width of our metal is definitely too wide.

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I think we're going to hit somewhere around 30 inches, and we'll do some cutting.

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I think our best bet is to make our wooden sides and frame first,

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and then we'll adjust the metal to fit that. I'm going to recruit Justin to help for a little while here.

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He's better with the metal work than me too.

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We've cut our MDF down to a more manageable size, and now I'm going to start drawing the silhouette down on the wood so we know where to cut.

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I'm doing a little bit of designing on the go here, because I don't want to have any lengths that are greater than 24 inches,

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because of the size of our metal panels. This is a bevel gauge.

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I'm using it to copy the angles from my drawing onto the wood.

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This one's pretty ancient, but you can still get these in literally any hardware shop for like 10, 20 bucks.

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I think you can see this starting to take shape now. The monitor will be up here.

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Controls are going to be here with lots of room under here for wiring.

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I think under here I want to leave room for a drawer, so we can put in our keyboard and mouse,

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and maybe a couple of wireless playstation controls or something like that. Draw a little line down to the bottom here.

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It's not too long for our sheet metal, and we can start cutting.

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The two layers of MDF is a little bit much for this little jigsaw,

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but I'd rather get both pieces cut the same way at the same time,

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rather than trying to make it even later. I'm cutting a little bit outside the lines here,

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because I can fold it up later on with a router bit and get perfectly smooth.

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What are you doing? Linus said we could use the bandsaw. Oh yeah.

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Why am I doing this? The bandsaw does a lot of the same job as the jigsaw,

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just a lot more efficiently, and every boomer has a bandsaw anyway.

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Okay, I think you can see the basic shape we're going for here.

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All we need to do now is clean it up a little bit, and then we can start working on the metal.

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We've got a flush trim bit in our router here, and this will basically ride along this bearing

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on this hunk of plywood to attach to this straight edge,

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and it'll make this edge perfectly smooth.

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Here we have our two sides. We'll have a little bit more cleanup later on,

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but don't worry about that right now. The last thing we'll end up doing is a slot right along the edge here,

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and that'll be for some molding later on to clean everything up at the end. I'm just marking about a half an inch in from the edge,

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and that's where our metal is going to end up in the end. We could cut our metal with these tin snips,

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but 18 gauge is a little bit thick for that, and while we were picking up our sheet metal break,

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we happened to see these air nippers on sale for about 30 bucks Canadian,

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so we're going to go with that. It's going to be way easier. Our goal is to have 30 inches wide,

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but we're going to add on an inch on either side of that to have little tabs.

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On each of the, I guess we'll call them side edges of our metal,

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we're going to have, I think, three tabs that we'll bend over,

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and they'll screw into our wood panels.

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We're just kind of figuring out exactly where to lay them out, and then we'll get cutting again.

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I don't remember what this is called, but we're going to use this to bend our tabs,

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so we're basically going to just measure in a couple inches from the end,

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put our clamp in place, and then mark on either side of it.

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Right now, this is still pretty floppy.

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We're going to fold over an edge on each side, and that's going to give us a lot more rigidity.

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There.

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So our next one, I think we can do this whole piece as one, right? Yeah, let's just do the piece.

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A little more if it's possible, I don't know if it is.

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Yeah, that's good. This is T-molding. It'll go around all the edges here once we're done.

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I'm just making sure I've got this relatively lined up.

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Oh, that's perfect. I'm just assembling the side panels with some MDF bracing.

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This is also 30 inches across, so it'll be the same as our panels when we're done with them,

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and this will give us a little bit more rigidity in the back without having to do a bunch more metal.

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Sorry. He's not sorry.

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I've got the panel for the monitor here. Let's see if it fits.

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Good work, Justin. We're at the end of day one,

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so let's kind of check in where we are here. Our MDF sides, those are good.

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Happy with that. Metal panels.

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The one for the monitor is mostly here. We got to cut a hole in it, but that's easy enough.

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The control panel, Justin's got that. About three quarters of the way done, I would say,

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for the mounting. So, I mean, we're going to cross those off.

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Just going to have to cross something off. Tomorrow, we've got to build a drawer

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to go underneath the control panel. That's for our keyboard and mouse and everything.

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And then we'll deal with a plate underneath that,

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and we'll check in with pancrats for a PC, figure out all our electronics,

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and eventually we'll show this thing to Linus. It's day two, and while we're waiting for Justin to get here,

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we're just going to put some screws into the wood frame

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to beef it up a little bit. It's important to pre-drill the holes so we don't split the wood,

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and we're also using a bit of a countersink here so the screws will end up below the surface of the wood.

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That way we can maybe put on some fill afterwards to make it nice and smooth.

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Justin's using this map gas torch. You'll find this in the plumbing section of any Home Depot.

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He's heating up the metal and bending over our tap. I'm going to attach it onto the living frame.

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I'm going to use this one by six to build a French cleat mounting system.

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How this works is we stick this up against the wall, and then the arcade machine will just hang right off of it.

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And because we cut it at the same time, it's a perfect alignment.

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Do something like that. I got these templates from a site called slagcoin.com.

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We've got a bunch of different options. This is kind of a generic version

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of a typical Japanese arcade machine, and I find this to be pretty comfortable for my own use,

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so that's what we're going to go with. So now I'm just going to cut some holes.

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First things first, we're going to drill some pilot holes, so that way we can use our step drill bit here,

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which will allow us to drill the holes for our kitchen.

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What we do is just hold it in place where we want it.

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We're going to temporarily install our first couple of panels here.

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We think that's going to make it a little easier to drill our control panel out.

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A little tough to get to our screws from the top, so we flip this up on its side,

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and it's still a little awkward as you can see here, a little snug, but with an extension and a bit of patience,

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it's going in okay.

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Okay, so this, I'm thinking, is the kick plate to the bottom,

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and the drawer will figure out to fit in the middle. With our last piece or else,

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even this little scrap, maybe we'll see a little more.

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Under 90, but like probably 75.

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We grabbed this old ASUS ProArt monitor from Logistics.

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It's not in great shape, but it'll do 1440 at 60 Hertz, which is really all we need to do,

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and I can find it for about 100 bucks on eBay, which is a good bonus.

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I'm thinking we put in a shelf to hold the monitor, something like that,

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and then we can just use the two ball joints in the monitor ARM

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to position the monitors fit our hole.

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Our monitor fits quite nicely in here.

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Up you go there.

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Up there, and then flip it up onto the floor again.

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We're doing good. Now what? Drawer, yeah.

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This piece here will be our front panel for the drawer.

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These are the sides, and this is the back, meaning that we need to get rid of this big chunk here,

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here, this hole by here.

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So in terms of physical construction,

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probably 90% of the way there, we have to do the electronics. That's going to be just a bunch of wiring,

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but it's pretty much Lego. The PC, we actually had two options delivered earlier today,

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but we haven't had a chance to look at them yet. Turn everything on, see if we can play some games

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and show it to Linus. And you know, maybe paint it and make it look a little bit less ugly.

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We bought two packs of these San Juan 30-mil buttons. They're the same ones that are being used

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by the umbrella arcades machine. You may have noticed this is upside down right now,

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but there's a good reason for that is we're about to drill out for the joysticks.

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Before we get to that, I just want to show you the drawer slides you put in here on either side.

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And our metal drawer is just going to ride along those. And inside there, we can put our PC and our keyboard

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and extra controllers, all that kind of fun stuff. So it's easy to access.

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Don't have to pull off any panels or anything to do any changes. These are San Juan joysticks as well.

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They came along with our buttons as a set. And we just need four bolts to hold them into our control panel.

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We're still waiting for the proper bolts to arrive. Those will have no cut in the tops, they'll be nice and smooth.

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But for now, these will work fine. Each of our joystick kits pairs with one of these little control ports.

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Basically, it's just a little USB controller. We plug our wire into one end

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and the other end goes to each one of the buttons.

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I think it looks like a arcade machine. Let's see if it works.

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Yeah, that happened. We're using our magnetic cable management essential solution,

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lttstore.com, to connect our control boards right onto our metal housing.

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Conveniently magnetic. Obviously, we're going to need a computer to run this thing.

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So we had David give us a couple of options. Oh, not that David.

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This is David Pankratz. He's our new technical production assistant, something like that.

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Yeah, that's the one. Perfect. What do you got for us? I've got two options here.

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We've got the Raspberry Pi 5 and this has a hat on it.

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So you can stick an NVMe drive in there. Beautiful. We've got a four terabyte drive in here right now,

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which is a bit overkill. You could drop that down to a two terabyte and save about a hundred bucks.

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But this package, as it is, is about $375.

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That's not too bad. Okay. If you want a little bit more power, we've got the Minisforum UM970 Pro.

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This one has a two terabyte drive in it right now and 16 gigs of RAM.

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And this package would end up costing you about $525.

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Okay, that's not too bad either, actually. I'm kind of surprised.

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How much time would it take you to set them up? Honestly, it was a lot more difficult downloading the image off of the site in terms of time.

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Once you've got the image off the site, it was as easy as using etcher to image the drives over.

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And then you were pretty much good to go. Perfect. Thank you very much for your help.

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Yeah, not a problem. All right. I'm only going to pay for one of these, by the way.

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I guess we kicked out Pancrats a little early. We needed his help to get everything running again here, but now we're looking great.

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Obviously, we need some spit and polish to get on the machine, but I think we're going to do that as a bit of a montage for you guys.

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And next time you see this, Linus will be evaluating it.

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All right.

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Here's what we did. Damn.

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You like it? Way more than I expected to.

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I think so. Don't take that the wrong way.

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Don't take that the wrong way. We used magnetic cable management for our handles.

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Are they attached or are they just? No, they're just magnets. They're just magnets.

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Wow. Everything magnet. What? I don't get it.

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It's a reference. Except for the parts that are computer.

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Um, is that blood? No, that's paint.

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Cool. Okay. Here's your coins. First player, second player.

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Ooh. Your starts. Are those just the monitors built in speakers?

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No, those speakers in the back of the logitech.

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I actually kind of like how they sound. They're an appropriate level of shit.

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Yeah. Yeah. Cause there's no grills. So they've got kind of like a boomy crappy sound to them.

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But it's very arcadey. Well, this is great for just quickly navigating.

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So, uh, how do we go to the, Oh, this is a nice interface.

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This is just a different skin on the same front end though, right? It's still, it's still about a serve,

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but it's like their default interface.

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Oh, balls.

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Look, it's hard. It is designed to steal my quarters.

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I gotta say, in terms of the actual user experience,

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now that it is complete, because obviously it was a little bit more work to build,

196
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this does not feel meaningfully that different.

197
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Do I get to guess what the budget was? What did you guys pay yourselves per hour?

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30 bucks a US an hour. 30 US dollars an hour.

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I think you were still able to beat them by just over a thousand US dollars.

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All right. I think you guys are probably around 3300 to 3400 US.

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Oh, you're way over. Really? How long did this take to build?

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This took 22, 29 hours.

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Really? Of actual labor. That's pretty good.

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A couple of weekends, basically. Did that include all of the software configuration?

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Yes. Because they've got more games on theirs than we have.

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I have a full name to it on there, sir. Our total was $24.44 and $0.59.

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So we beat it by two grand. Pretty much.

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Wow. I see that two different ways. Okay.

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I see that as, wow, we could build something that is functionally very similar for half the price

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and have the fun of learning how to do it for ourselves while paying ourselves $30 an hour to do it,

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but I also see it as, okay, so basically we're paying them two grand to figure everything out for us.

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Pretty much. And for whatever level of support they're going to give you.

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So the only question that remains then is buy or DIY.

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And you're the only ones who can answer this for us. Which would you rather have?

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This for 2500 US dollars or this for 4400 US dollars?

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Well, go. Leave a comment. And while you're down there,

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be sure to check out our sponsor. If you guys enjoyed this video, why not go check out the ShortCircuit video that we did

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on the Umbrella Arcade. We found some really good things about it and we found some not so good things.

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For what they're charging, they could have included better controllers like Jordan did in his build.