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This setup is so crazy, I needed every single one of these remotes to make it work.

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Oh, jeez. No! And this is a simplified version of the setup.

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Let me show you everything. I'm going to go through the setup in the same order that we played through it in the video.

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So the first thing we did is we played on our Genesis, which is down down there.

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This is a regular Genesis to this composite splitter.

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This is a cool little splitter device. It does composite and component.

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It's not really a sought after device for video games,

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but it does the job and I've kind of kept it as a backup in my pack pocket if I needed it.

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And it turns out this was what saved the day. Don't worry, I only use composite for the first part of the video to show how bad of a use case it is.

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We have a whole set of RGB and component switchers and stuff,

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but I'm going to save that for a little bit later. First, let's show off the HDMI runs.

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The HDMI stuff's pretty straightforward. You know, you plug it into a switcher,

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goes to another switcher, goes to another switcher, easy stuff.

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Let's just do an example run. So for the switch, you know, we have our switch is going into this four by two matrix.

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This one can do 4k HDR. This one has two outs.

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One of these is going directly to our other matrix, which I'll get to in a second.

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But then there's one that's going to a 4k splitter,

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and that's being split to both retro-tink. So I could actually have both retro-tink 4ks going at once.

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This one's not plugged in because we shot a bunch of stuff with it yesterday. Once those send the HDMI over, they send it to this eight by eight matrix

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that AVPro Edge also sent to us. It's actually an insane device.

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It's $8,800 and it's just kind of a top of the line machine.

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It does 8k HDR, variable refresh rate.

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And because the retro-tink does 4k HDR with variable refresh rate,

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we needed something this high-end to make this whole video possible.

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Huge thank you to AVPro Edge. So the first two are our retro-tink 4ks.

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Our third one's coming from our retro-tink 5x, which is part of our analog run.

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This is an OSSC. We shot the video yesterday. We actually didn't end up using that, but we did test it.

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Very impressive response times, but I find the feature sort of limiting on it.

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And then this one is from our four by two matrix, which is the unprocessed HDMI from our HDMI consoles.

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That way I could display any scalar on this TV. And then on the bottom, I could show just like a naked HDMI

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so that you can get a comparison. Or we could show multiple different scalers at once,

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including two retro-tinks at once on different settings. It was a lot.

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As far as outputting from this thing. So our first one goes directly to our OLED 1.

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Second one goes directly to our OLED 2 on the bottom. Wow, this HDMI port is not happy.

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Oh, boy. Oh, jeez.

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Oh, boy. The third one goes to another splitter.

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And this is one that can do scaling and strip HDR out.

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So I can scale it 4K to 1080p. It's going to two outputs.

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And the reason I needed it scaled to 1080p

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is because it's going to two extra on scalers.

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One is the DSC 301, which takes HDMI and outputs HDMI.

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But what it's doing in this case is it's taking 1080p video

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and interlacing it to 1080i, which is what the HDCRT is best at on the bottom.

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So that's kind of the best case scenario. With that TV, if you give it other resolutions,

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it can display it, but it'll add so much lag that the ideal thing you want to do is turn off

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HDPT in the service menu and only feed it 1080i.

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So you kind of need one of these if you want the best case scenario with a Sony HDCRT.

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And everything is so tangled. This, on the other hand, is our VSC 500.

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I'm going to show you it upside down because it's tangled.

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This one takes the 1080p image and downscales it to 480i

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and converts it to analog so that this TV can display anything

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that was shown on the HDMI to this.

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This is also a very versatile device. Both of these are pretty darn cool.

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When we were measuring our input latency, they were, I think, six milliseconds and eight milliseconds

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added for that conversion and scaling, which is very well within the realm of acceptable.

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This one can do RGB out, composite out, S video out,

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but we use component because it's just what works better

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with the stuff that I have. Yeah, you need a little HDMI to VGA thing in the first place.

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There are so many adapters in this thing. Let's go. We're here.

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We're at the analog run. This is a stupid thing.

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I chose three different consoles for this video.

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One is a Neo Geo. It's basically an arcade board with a super gun

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that allows you to get video and power the board. It's pretty cool to use these things.

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You just use like a crappy power supply, this. And like, I'm going to f**k it.

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It's, this is not the best thing I should be doing.

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This was literally in an arcade machine. I bought it off a dude who like runs arcades.

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You can buy what SNK made as a home console, which is the AES.

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Or you can buy these. I got this for I think $80, the super gun for 60 bucks.

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And that's Canadian. Or you can spend like $700 on the consoloist one.

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And it's kind of cool. I think the aesthetic of having kind of just a loosey-goosey

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arcade board, pretty neat. You can also buy consolization kits.

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I've done that with another MBS board at home, but I cheaped out and the RGB on it sucks.

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So I actually prefer using this. We also have our Dreamcast, which was kind of picked

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because it's got VGA out. So when I was testing the OSSC versus the RetroTank,

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it was kind of a good comparison. The one thing that I didn't do is get an active VGA splitter.

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And so it really dimmed the image and made it that it was

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not a really great test. It was kind of cool because then you could test the

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compensation for brightness that everything could do. But we ended up not using that instead,

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just focusing Neo Geo and PS2.

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These are both consoles that I modded, just the shells.

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This one has the GDMU board in it,

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so that it doesn't have a disk drive, but you can play games off an SD card that I legally own for sure.

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That's right. I own all of them. And then this is a PS2 that I very hastily swapped the shell on.

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It's just a PS2 shell, but I did a really bad job.

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And if I don't press it in the right spot,

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it thinks that it's open. Come on, buddy.

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There you go. So yeah, I have to press it down for it to spin or it stops.

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But obviously I can't do that in the video. So I had to place these kind of just in the right spot

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and see it's spinning. It's spinning. So if you see this tower on top of a PS2 in the video,

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you now know why. So out of these three consoles, I had SCART from the Neo Geo, Component from the PS2,

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and VGA from the Dreamcast, which goes to the back.

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Let's do Neo Geo first, because it's kind of, I think, the most interesting run.

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Originally, I wanted to test way more consoles, but the testing for this and the setup took a long time.

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And I think we did a pretty comprehensive job testing a bunch of use cases.

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So the point is, I brought my 8-in, 3-out SCART switcher.

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So you can do eight different inputs of SCART consoles.

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If you're watching this, you probably know what SCART is, but if you don't, it was basically a European...

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It was basically a standard everywhere but North America. While we had composite video,

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you know, one pin for everything of your video,

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SCART has like 20, let's say 20-ish pins,

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and it doesn't use all of them. There's a lot of them that are superfluous, especially depending on what signal it's sending.

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But almost universally, unless it's sending composite over SCART,

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this is a better connector in terms of video quality.

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And so most people now, even in North America, you generally are going to move towards an RGB setup

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that's going to use SCART. So here, the functionality that I'm using really is the splitting.

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So I have two SCART outs. One is going to the RetroTink 5X,

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and one is going to the RetroTink 4K. The third output on this is actually through RCA,

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which works fairly well because I have this SCART 2 component adapter that I use.

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At home, I generally use the SCART 2 component. I just have mostly components runs

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for everything that's in my retro setup, and I'll show you guys the extra on after.

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So this worked really well. RGB in, component out. And then the component out went to this switcher,

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which took input from the analog run, but also the digital run from this extra on.

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And I could select both, and then output that to the TV,

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depending on what test we were doing. I didn't have to unplug, re-plug stuff,

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simplifying it a little bit. This is for the Dreamcast.

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To get VGA out, I have the Bahar Bros. Toro.

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Basically, you can do SCART and VGA out from it,

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just from the Dreamcast connector. It's pretty good.

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I bought this use, and I think the SCART on this doesn't work quite right.

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I've never been able to get a great image out of it. I mean, I just unplugged that.

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But the VGA is what I use at home anyway, so it's not a huge deal.

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Last piece of the puzzle is the Extron Crosspoint 300,

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which is a matrix switcher. It can do RGB, it can do component,

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as well as composite. I'll show you guys the back, because I think it looks coolest from the back.

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It's funny how messy this is, considering I barely even utilized half of this.

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So this one has eight inputs and four outputs.

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I kind of wish I had gotten the eight output one,

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but for this case, it was fine. It would have been nice to have a fifth one.

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One of the things that's kind of neat on it is it has the five BNC jacks.

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So you have to use these little RCA to BNC connectors,

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or you can get five BNC cables and make that work too,

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but seeing as I already have a bunch of component cables lying around this made more sense.

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These are like 17 cents each. But those five don't do audio.

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That's for RGB and then different kinds of sync.

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But you get audio on the bottom, and I bought these little modules

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that go from the five pin Phoenix connectors to RCA,

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just to keep it simple. You could cut the cables yourself

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and then run them to this connector,

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but I found these for like $3 each and saving $40 to save myself an hour or two

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of just cutting cables and putting connectors in was worth it.

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Right now we're running gains on our mister. We're going from mister to HDMI matrix to splitter

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to retro-tink as well as the matrix.

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Right now, you're seeing both directly from the mister, but with a button presser too, if this is...

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It's not connected, screw that. You guys get the idea.

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And then we get our HDMI's out to this, which are being scaled to this.

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One of the nice things about the extraons is that you can customize the stretch and the size.

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One of the bad things is that sometimes when it turns off and on,

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the settings kind of reset and you get this. But that's the rundown.

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That's the setup. What did you think? If you like it, let me know.

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If you don't, go away. Okay, bye.
