What's up, Photoplane? This is the behind the scenes of my board game table build that you
can see in my AMD upgrade, which will be out. You won't have seen a lot of the build in the
actual upgrade because we'll be mostly focused on building the two computers that are strapped
underneath. But I thought it'd be really cool just to go over how I built the table, the inspiration
behind it, and really feature stuff that we don't really cover a lot on this channel,
which is woodworking. Yeah, it was my first big woodworking project that I've done.
I went again to woodworking for a while and the AMD upgrade was
the best push that I had to get into it. I don't suggest building a table of this size as your
second woodworking project. I made it work and I'll go over kind of what I did. It might be out
of sequence just because I've done a lot of the work already and it's a lot further than it used
to be like six months ago. So I started with SOLIDWORKS as it's the program that I use in my
day-to-day work. I always find putting ideas on SOLIDWORKS better than just trying to nervously
think them out. But before that, I had to draw inspiration from what's already out there.
So a quick Google search of board game tables put ideas in my head and then I kind of narrowed it
down to some styles that I really liked and some features that I wanted to have in my board game
table. So I have a lot of different styles of board games and they require different organizational
methods to play properly. And also I also don't like drinks at the table because if you spill
on a board game, well rest in peace board game. I settled on a rail attachment mechanism by a board
game table manufacturer called Wormwood. They make what I consider in my opinion the best rail
mechanism or like best attachment mechanism I've ever seen. And what it entails is, you know,
Crater Warehouse's favorite thing, freaking magnets. They have these mild steel bars and all
you need to do is your attachment must be less than the distance between this and you can just
slot it in there. And it just like sandwiches between that and the magnet that you have on the
attachment magnets to the steel rail. And you now have an attachment that you can just pick up and
move. That's the system that I wanted to emulate. So today what we're filming is I need to make
three more of these. What this is is this is going to be the long side rail of the board game
table on the table. This will sit on a piece of plywood like that. That's how it sits and it'll
be connected to one of these corner blocks. And then we'll have the other side of the table, the
shorter side go across and its armrest is going to overhang and line up with this. So that's how
it's going to be. And that's what we're going to get to by the end of today. But this is where you
rest. This is where you hang out, you chill. If you need any attachments you slide them in. If you
can imagine it this will be the vault plane area where the board game will be set up on you know
your sheet of neoprene or felt. And once you're done playing you can then cover this with leaves
and it's just a table. When designing the table I sourced the metal bars first so I knew what slots
to cut into the metal. So these are 1 eighth inch thick steel flat bars. Coal rolled a 1018
mild steel. So when designing the table I started with the magnetic rails first because I needed
to know the thickness of material and the width in order to cut the slots that these are going to
fit into. So you see how that fits beautifully in there once I line it up. They have an tendency
to rust. This is how they came from the factory once I used acetone to remove all the anti rust
shmoo. I then proceeded to decide how I'm going to protect this from rust in the future. My first
attempt was to use enamel paint and I made a mess of it. I flipped it over too soon and got it stuck
to newspaper. I sprayed it in not a very dust free environment so there's like you get a nice
close-in shot of that. There's all these like specky areas where all dust got to. And then the
first time I tried to put a magnet thing onto it it scratched. So I was like that's a bad idea.
Like look at all that. Look at all those scratches. Now those scratches are where the rust is going
to be. Later today and off-camera I'm going to be grinding this down and getting rid of the paint
because the paint sucks. So I had to figure out a different way to do this and the solution to it
is the stuff called super blue. It's not a fun chemical. It's got a whole bunch of acid in it
but it'll basically etch the metal and turn it like this bluey black and that will prevent rust.
I left all the screws that I need to screw this in place at home. So what I'd end up doing right
now is taking one of these rails. You see how I've cut a slot in the wood? So what you do is
this is designed to exactly fit that. A cool story is that the reason why I chose one eighth
of an inch wide is that that's the exact width of my table saw blade. So I used my table saw to
cut those grooves. So that's why I chose one eighth inch. Plus my local metal store could
actually source it. Like they had like flat bar like as a as a standard stocked item. You see how
these flat bars actually sit proud of the thing? Proud means they're just like beyond the flat
surface. That's because I've cut the exact groove pattern on the armrest. The reason for that is
I don't actually need to glue the metal to the wood because it's going to be held in place
on two sides by the slots. So all we have to do now, and again this is what we'll do tomorrow,
I'll actually run a bead of glue in the middle and I'll place this and then I'll screw it from the
bottom. But we're not going to do that now because I've got the screws. You will notice that this
wood is longer than this. That is because it'll become abundantly clear why that is once I
complete the full square. Because these actually sit like this and I have to cut them to size once
I've done assembling the table. And once I've cut them to size, I will chamfer the edge and then
have this 60 degree angle come across the side as well. Yeah what I'm looking for is more than
four inches on either side because this is exactly four inches-ish. Four in a bit. So I'm looking for
more than four in a bit over there and I have it. Like once this is glued together it'll look like
that. Obviously there's some work to do on the sides once we match it up. But that's how I would
build this rail armrest combo. I've got to do that two more times with these two and I still have to
do some more bluing of the short rails for the short side. And then what I'm going to have to do
is figure out how to grind off this enamel paint and then glue this one to go on this long rail over
here. But what I can do is build the table as a square because I actually need to get the inside
dimension so I know what to cut my plywood to. Because even though I have a model I theoretically
know what the measurement is. When you build a physical piece it does not necessarily always
match the model 100% so I just need to take some real world measurements to make sure that everything
is good. And that way I can buy the plywood tomorrow and load it up into our Avid CNC router over there.
So you know how IKEA has those like things you screw into the wall
into one side and then you have this stupid like cam nut thing. Yeah I don't like that.
So what I got was a very similar threaded insert but then it's called the quick connect. So once
you insert this or you screw this into your face you can screw this little bar in there. Then this
thing goes into the other piece and you slide that into there like that and then there's a little
threaded insert that goes into this and then you use mr. hex key and tighten it down and now it's
tight. This is the first time I'm actually putting the board game together entirely. So this might
this might go badly. Problem is I'm at a stage now where if I mess anything up it's like a lot of
work to fix it. Funny story probably the only Floatplane is going to hear this story. Board game
dimensions the board game table dimensions have changed every single time I've made a mistake.
So the height of the board game table used to be four and a half inches. It is now
four point one five inches because I when I did my final like rip cut on the table saw
I accidentally put four and a quarter instead of four and a half. So on one piece but I'm like I
either remake that one piece or I cut everything shorter while it was just way less time to cut
everything to the same like shorter dimension. So that's where we lost a quarter of an inch.
Then I missed dimension the rail height because it's supposed to be compatible with
wormwood accessories. So I lost a tenth of an inch there and yeah there's various other areas where
like I've lost a quarter of an inch there and a quarter of an inch there which is why I'm building
it so I can measure the final dimension so I can actually know what size to cut the plywood.
But someone once told me or I was watching some sort of woodworking like YouTube channel
because I watch a lot of you know YouTube channels to teach me how to do stuff I don't know how to
do. And one of them said a great woodworker is not someone who who who is perfect but a great
woodworker is someone who knows how to cover up their mistakes very well. And let me tell you
that there is a there was a bunch of mistakes inside here. Oh like for example I accidentally
drilled an extra hole right but guess what when you buck this up against the rail it hides it.
So I'm like I don't need to remake that. I just and there the same thing I drilled an extra hole.
Whoops but guess what when you when you assemble the table you don't see it well if you don't see
it well technically it's just not there you know that's how it works right. So another thing that
I think gets a lot of bad rap in the world right now is dowels. Dowels are actually strongest flip
when you put them into like strong wood right. The problem is with like Ikea furniture it's
usually put into like chipboard or like particle board they end up using for their furniture
which is fine. It's usually the actual like particle board that fails and not the dowel so like
when an Ikea furniture fails you usually are able to recover the dowel while the actual you
know headboard of your table is like completely smashed you know. So I have this dowel jig that
allows me to align stuff very well so if I was building a very like a large flat panel where I
have to glue a whole bunch of these edge to edge I use dowels to help center it and it also makes
it a lot stronger. I mean using dowels into a hard wood like walnut really freaking strong
actually. I'm not actually going to glue it in they're just like they just they just go in the
hole and it helps align everything. With the magic of editing we now have all of the steel
hardware into the corner blocks and now all we have to do dowels. If any of you have done wood
working before what I could have done is something called a mortise and tenon. It's a fancy way of
saying like a dowel just made out of the actual material so you would basically make this wider
than it needed to be and then machine that machine it down until there's like a like a little hole
or like a little protrusion and that's your tenon and then you'd make a hole of the exact same shape
for it to slot in. I'm lazy. I'm not lazy I'm just I didn't really feel like doing that actually.
So I actually was supposed to be before tinning it was supposed to be an Intel upgrade. The issue
was February 2021 was the February before we launched the screwdriver so I was rarely flipping
busy and of course for my Intel upgrade I chose the most complicated thing to do which is build my
own board game table considering I didn't have any woodworking equipment at the time. My garage
was a mess and I had to like re-concrete the floor and everything plus my wife was pregnant with our
second child and we were trying to launch screwdriver and February of 2021 heard that our previous
ratchet manufacturer was no longer responding to us and we had to like switch to our current
ratchet manufacturer. The long story short is I didn't really have any time or like not necessarily
time but any like energy left over to work on my board game table. It's taken a really freaking
long time. Now I get to explain the hardware all right. So on the side you will see three holes
on every single rail. This this middle hole over here is just oversized for that hole there and
then the two other ones are for the dowels. So when I slide this in
and then when you see it inside what you want to do is you want to get a nice close up shot of
that hard way in that hole. That hole is exactly where this piece goes down. You can see how as
we screw it in this goes further and further into the hole and as we screw out it opens up.
That matches with the angle of this and as you screw it in you're hoping to hit this face and
pull it closer in. So what I do is I drop this down the hole that it's in the hole there with
the um flat end lined up with the hole. So when I shove this in you'll see it move a little bit.
Okay never mind I machined it so well you you don't see it. It's locked in place.
Yeah see that's what happens when you use proper flippin hardware and not like cheap plastic crud.
Come on. Come on. Yeah we go.
Okay I have to do that again. Well because look I didn't put the thing in. Oh it was sort of on
purpose so what I want to check is how far that thing sits inside. I wanted to sit further that
way so that the outer side is in the center so that it wants to pull together right.
What a good screwdriver. So like look like now you can lift this up and they're attached together.
Right now obviously if I had the apron over here it would connect together but
that's how big the plane area is going to be. Man that is decently strong like obviously you
are getting flexed because the wood does flex but I'm looking at the joint and there's like zero
movement. I need that hole to line like straight up. I don't want it to be at an angle but I can't
turn it anymore because it's bottomed out on that. So I'm going to do my cheating method.
I'll just turn that a bit more and then when we screw that back in see lined up to the top.
I'm really starting to like these quick connect things man. The hole needs to be very
centered within the hole but slightly towards the block side so that when you put the tapered
pin in it pulls towards it like it pulls it towards it. You can see now I can move it out right.
So I'm going to lock it in place so that it doesn't move out. Okay you see how it moves
but it's not coming out right. So you see how it's open there. Okay so you see watch you see
the gap. Now I'm going to tighten watch that gap disappear. Oh wow. Right now there's no way to
create that gap again. That's the interaction of this angled piece over here. As I tighten this down
this angled piece is pushing down. So don't tighten it all the way until you've got all
them in because it lasts too rigid for you to do anything with. What's what's what's what's what's
what's stuck. Turns out the hole wasn't big enough deep enough so the that round bit was sitting too
high. So in this mess might be the right size for snubbit to nope not that size to make it wider.
I need a very specific size for snubbit that obviously is at home because you know I didn't
think that I need to have it. I'm I'm stubborn and like this is LTT. So this is this is the part
of the show where I tell you don't do this at home. This is like hey we want to get it done
and I want to kind of see my board game table together. So we're going to do some manual drilling.
Oh tell me that's not genius without telling me that's not genius you know. Oh bulls no not another
one. I don't want to do any more manual drilling damn you. Oh bulls why is it not going in?
Why aren't you not going in? It gets the job done. See without breaking your wood.
All right is it just as easy as go around and tighten everything?
Man this will be so much harder without the LTT screwdriver.
Act tight now. Well I'm going to check for square first. Okay one notch above three quarters.
I'm not doing freaking imperial math today. Another way to check square
is get yourself a machinist square. Oh look at that and if you don't see any daylight that's
square. It's like a year and a half worth of work man to have it like all be square now
and to have it like on camera again like during the AMD upgrade because everything's so compressed
you won't get to see this stuff right. You won't even get to see all the heartache that I went to
to get to this point. To have it go together and actually be square means that when I've milled
the lumber so lumber doesn't come square you have to machine it square so I've machined it
square then I've glued it together then I've had to remachine it square again after the glue.
To have it all lined up like this is like it means that I might actually be able to film in
January like to be clear it's like December just before New Year's now and we're hoping to film this
in January like after CES and I don't think I have enough time to get to this point again if
something was like catastrophically wrong so it's a good feeling to have everything to go together
it'll start looking more like a board game table as we go along in this thing but what I'm going to do
is I'm just going to try and flip it over there's a little bit of an alignment problem over here
it fits on here but like it's so slight it's probably like less than a 16th of an inch
so it means I need to do is like maybe just remove some material there those mistakes I was talking
about I accidentally I had the piece I had the piece like this without the grooves cut into it
so I had two pieces like this and I'm supposed to cut the grooves in while I accidentally put
the wrong way around in the table saw and I cut grooves on the wrong side so that's why I don't
have this piece and I have to make a new piece I did that a couple days ago and I wasn't very happy
the reason why this it matters is I already cut the direction I already cut this chamfer this is
60 degree chamfer to like make it a nice little profile right that looks pretty cool from the side
you know I think we can all agree that that was pretty cool from the side having that chamfer there
so I already cut the chamfer and then I ran it the wrong way like this face down on the table
saw so I cut the grooves on the opposite side so that when you assemble the table the chamfer will
be facing up instead of down so that was a no go and it was it was sad because it was a very nice
looking piece of wood that I ended up having to use a scrap so this is what it's going to look like
just imagine that there's another piece over here and I haven't finished this side
so I deliberately left this side oversized so that once I have it all assembled I can mark
where I need to cut it to size so I just need to lob it off cut it there and then chamfer the corners
such that they're like nice and like like a 45 degree chamfer so they're not very square it
basically the chamfer will match the block chamfer over there the legs are going to be
going to be a much harder job day two which is actually a couple days after when we filmed the
last one to catch you up on what happened I was hoping to be a lot further along than I am currently
while I was doing some work at home I accidentally broke one of the pieces that were like done done
this is actually a new block that I slightly repaired so when I made these blocks I actually
cut them from the same piece of material if you zoom in you can see four different types of wood
you can't actually go out and feasibly buy three inch thick walnut because it'll have to come from
a three inch thick tree and we've kind of cut down all the big trees so we only have little
ones left so to get something thicker the best way is to buy one inch thick material
machine it down till it's flat and then glue it together so if you wanted to make material wider
you would machine that you'd machine the face is flat and you would glue them together right so now
that's doubly thick for this I took four pieces of walnut and I glued them together before I started
you know cutting these into pieces this was just one long log that was three inches thick
by three inches wide I actually had it long enough to make a fifth block and it's always good to have
extras in case you destroy one so yesterday I had a different fourth block and while I was at home
yesterday I was trying to machine out a pocket over here for when this is assembled I need to be
able to fit the plywood the issue was the jig that I was using to hold this in place while I was
using the mitre saw kind of failed and the mitre saw being the powerhouse that it is
literally just ripped the block and kicked it back and it flew and shattered on the wall
thankfully I walked away with no injuries when a machine throws a piece of wood all you can hope
is that your hands are nowhere close to the spinning blade thankfully I had the fifth block
but what I'd been using the fifth block for was a example or like a test piece it was kind of like
messed and broken and stuff so what I had to do was kind of had to do a little bit of repair on it
so I'd actually taken a table saw and cut a massive groove out of here this entire face is
invisible but it still needs to be solid wood to be able to hold the hardware so what I ended up
doing was my table saw blade is exactly one eighth inch wide I just planed down a piece of material
to one eighth of an inch and then glued it back in place and just chiseled it flat I spent the
remainder of last night fixing this block and my goal for today was finish putting in the hardware
which I've done off camera before Sammy came over and then finished doing all the table like edges
actually gluing in the pieces of metal which is this whole contraption here I finished
bluing all the metal off camera it's now all theoretically as rough proof as it's going to get
and now it's just assembling the pieces into their final stage so that I can actually
coat them with their final varnish which I just arrived from Amazon yesterday so I'm just going
to go over how these are actually made how I actually use pocket screws which are intended to
create butt joints that's a butt joint where you literally just butt two ends up to each other
what a pocket screw does is you drill out an angle and this screw sits in an angle holding
them together they're usually sold with kits like this it's like a drill guide right so you'd put
the drill guide on the piece of wood like this and it would it would guide the drill at an angle
each one of these holes that you see here I drill them to a very specific depth and I can show you
what I mean by it the screws go in that far those were just the hardware that didn't yeah it's okay
I have a strong head in theory that does look like it's a bit tall should be less than the
thickness of the material yep it is when this is attached on top here notice that it'll be
screwed in that much so when I add wood glue here and the screws that's enough to bolt the armrest
to the rails as much as I like that like Robertson bits are Canadian sometimes a bit of a pain
what I was doing as Sammy just walked in was I'd already run the bead of glue on the rail
fit in the metal accessory guide thingies now I'm just going through each pocket screw and
sending one of these home I was just waiting for the glue to dry and then this will be another one
of those rails that with the magic of editing that's not the first time I've done that is it
this is what once it's done it's going to end up looking like and then you can tell that I can
just hold it like this and just you know give it a shaky shake and it's like rock solid and then
I don't know if Sammy's ever felt the weight of this so this is sanded to 220 grit I'm actually
going to just do another hand sand before I do the final finish but the final finish is something
called catalyzed varnish or conversion varnish depending on whatever name you use and I got
semi-gloss so it'll give you a nice little sheen and it'll also make the wood pop a bit I mean
you can see the grain pattern and what I've done is I've chosen the outside pieces such that the
prettiest side faces outside so when you glue something together the no one sees the inside so
I've used lumber that didn't look as cool as this on the inside where no one's going to see it
right and then what I try to make sure is the the pretty what I found to be the prettiest patterns
are the ones that are on the outside so for example like I like knots so I kept that knot in
personally for me I think this looks very cool it's got a nice like changing pattern between like
like this looks like a little bit of sapwood in here the lighter color and then the the
hot wood on the outside on the inside another really cool pattern as well at least what I
consider a good pattern like you can notice that the color is like very different so this is what
we call sapwood it's for walnut it's the lighter color I put all the ugly sides on the inside
um you can see there was a very gnarly knot that I don't think looks that cool as the other knots
that are left in place um any defects in the wood that it didn't make any like functional or strength
problems but it was something that you probably didn't want to see that's kind of where we are
right now and that's kind of the decisions I made how long is it taking like turns like man hour
it depends if you're just referring to the board game table itself between
designing planning thinking um actually like woodworking fixing woodworking mistakes probably
like two three hundred hours probably yeah it's been it's been a lot I mean that's that's the
upgrade as a whole but it's been fun like I like I like making things and honestly making my own
board game with my board gaming table with my own features is kind of what I was going for
day three of filming this board game building thing to catch myself up on where we were because
for float playing it's like two seconds for me it's been like four days time we had finished all
these uh aprons by screwing the rails to the armrests using pocket screws what we have to do now
is machine the plywood that's going to go between here you probably want to come around here
just to remind the folks where it is so there is a gap between this and there where the plywood's
going to sit on the inside of the table to form the plain surface well earlier today we went and
picked up a very thick sheet of plywood this is one inch thick it's surrounded by protective
thin sheets of wood it's raining cats and dogs in Vancouver so we had to protect it with shrink
wrap and some throwaway piece of protective whatever the veneer wood that is but this here
is 24 millimeter thick four by eight inch sheet of maple plywood that we're going to use as the
plain surface as well as the area where the legs bolt to because it's a trestle table the legs are
sunken into the table and they're aren't they're not on the corners so this both has to support the
rail on the outside edge as well as the legs that are going to go on the inside so what we're doing
today with the help of Sebastian who's setting up the Avid CNC we are going to machine this to size
right now it's four by eight what it really needs to be is about just less than four feet by about
six feet that's kind of the end dimension we're going the exact dimension I think is 47 and three
quarters and then six feet and three quarters of an inch and the easiest way to make it square is on
the CNC because the machine is set up square so we're just going to run a we're going to run a
router bit and just cut it out rather than trying to saw this with a table saw or something it's just
way easier to handle on the on the Avid before that though if you guys remember these are the
corner blocks that go on the end of the tables so this goes at the end of the table and helps
bolt the table together right because I designed this to come apart so it's easy to move is we
need to remove a 45 degree chamfer little piece of wood from all the end all these end blocks
so that the plywood can sit at a 45 over here and be recessed into the table I tried to do it with a
hand saw but I got I got bored and I was lazy and I was like I'm going to get a machine to do this
I could go and manually chisel out that entire block of wood four times or I could program a robot
to do it for me I want to be efficient some people may call it laziness I call it efficiency
if you don't hold the piece down it's going to move and that's really bad you want it to hold
still right there's a couple ways you can do that some some cncs have vacuum tables uh some
have like holes where you can camp stuff down so what we could do is we could put it over here
line it up with what we know is square camp it down and then machine another easy way to do it
is actually machine out a pocket in a piece of scrap material so this is scrap mdf and what we're
going to do is we're going to machine out a pocket that this is going to exactly fit it so what that
guarantees is when you machine that pocket out it's automatically square because the machine
machined it out yeah so when you pop this in it automatically lines this up with the x and y axis
so we don't have to worry about trying to align this in such a way that it's square to the table
we just machine something that's square from the start and just pop it in and then once it's in
place we just make a very simple program that traces this outline and then just goes deeper
so it takes like one millimeter or two millimeters off at a time whatever we feel is safe
and just keeps going down and down and down until it reaches the bottom
then it will move in and remove the rest of the material and once all the material is removed
any any places where it's kind of messed up or there's anything wrong we'll just take the chisel
and just clean it out and then we'll have nice chamfered blocks that we can use in our table
it's a decent amount undersized I will chisel this out time to get the plywood out
it's unfinished plywood so you run your fingers on it you get splinters
oh geez this is a big ass sheet of freaking plywood when you come back this is probably
going to be cut to size using pretty much the same method that we use for those blocks
we're just going to program in the dimensions that we need the rider's going to cut it out for us
we're just going to be able to drop it in the table we're also going to be machining holes out for
screws they're just going to help us align where the screws need to go as well as tapping a starting
hole for us and then we're just going to use pocket screws to bolt it to the table so when
everyone's back from CES I'll get social in here to film me building the table as a whole unit with
the legs standing up in the workshop and then I can go over and explain how I made each piece
we'll see everyone after CES bye all right this is day four we're at the stage now where there's
two ways I could go with building the last portion of the table that's actually still in raw form
and that's the table legs if we look back at the SOLIDWORKS model this is a trestle table trestle table
means that the legs are recessed within the table and they're not at the four corners legs at the
four corners would be a lot easier and I don't know if I explained this last time but again
Sam we're gonna we're gonna move around the shop a lot yeah these would go at the four corners of
the table and then they would have legs and those legs would sit on the floor and everything would
be good but here at Linus Media Group we don't do simplicity we'd make everything hard on ourselves
so I made a trestle table and that means that none of that matters and we have to make like strong
legs that go in the middle so this is the surface where you're actually going to play the board games
right and to cover this I'm actually using a very similar material to the LTT mouse pad it's nylon
covered neoprene and I chose a burgundy color because it's going to match the walnut very nicely
and this goes underneath the rails but this is this is also where the legs attach to on the other
side so if this is your play surface if you flip it over which is going to be a lot easier if
Sam he just comes around this surface where I've done all these like construction marks is where
the table legs are going to go they're actually going to sit on the center line in the middle
roughly about 13 inches from the top of the side and from the bottom part and they're going to sit
upright and they're going to support this which in turn supports the rails which in turn supports
the board game and in theory it's fine in practice we'll test it and if it fails that'll be a fun
video but we're hoping for not fails because this is one inch thick this is the table leg that the
table is going to rest on or at least the outside pattern of it I took the outline from SolidWorks
and then I used the laser cutter which is right behind Sammy here to laser cut the file out of
half inch plywood to use as a rough template right what this helped me do was glue together
various pieces of wood right because you're going to look at this right there's a couple
ways you could do something like this you could either have a big piece of walnut that goes the
entire square of this and then you would hog out all the material right that's a lot of wasted
material from this section so what I ended up doing was saying okay well what happened if I
had like a straight piece of wood that came like this and I cut it at an angle another straight
piece out here a piece across there and a piece down here and a piece down there right so I did
that and that's that right so you can see one piece of walnut over there so I used four planks
five I can count these planks are very easy to get um you just they're very easy to make should
I say this was actually like two or three pieces of walnut that I just cut to different widths
and then chopped to different lengths and then you can thickness plane them to this the same width
so that's the approach that I chose to get this however there is a problem let's just say I put
a 170 pound table on top of this and I add two computers on top of these legs there is a lot of
force that's pushing outwards as well as down down is not so much of a problem because of the
geometry it'll actually like support itself I'm more worried about that force the outside force
because if with enough force you could actually like tear this joint um and like chip wood out
right and that's bad so I came up with another plan the legs are going to be way thicker than
this actually the legs are going to be four times this thickness right what that means is I glue four
of these together face to face right because I'm doing that I have potentially four different
patterns that I can put the wood in that can support the glue joints I ended up settling with two
this pattern and this other pattern right so right now the potential weakness of this design
is these two glue joints all I need to do is make sure that I have a solid piece of wood
supporting these two glue joints and have the glue joints of that piece of wood somewhere else
that are supported by a solid piece of something else on this design and they'll support each
other when you glue them together in other words take the tie fighter design what this will do
is this long piece of wood over here when you overlay it overlaps both glue joints this one
and this one okay and its glue joint this one and this one is supported by this plank and this
plank when you glue them together like this their weak points will be supported by solid pieces
of the other design in practice I messed up I measured everything in my garage
which is not here and I used this template to make sure that when I glued the wood together
it matched but the problem was the way I chose to glue this together was a tongue and groove method
where this one I glued together with dowels and we talked a lot about how I love dowels but I needed
efficiency and speed so I chose tongue and groove this is why you use dowels and not tongue and
groove this is a tongue that's called the groove so that supports it in the up and down direction
okay and then the glue just stops it from sliding around so I did all my measurements
before I cut the tongue and groove then I cut the tongue and groove not remembering that when you
cut a tongue and groove it actually changes the outside dimension of the actual piece so
you see this piece this piece was designed to go from here to there right but you see how this
side is recessed into the previous board I designed it to butt up against this board not recessed
into it so what ended up happening when you glue it together you end up with a very large portion
so this this here is supposed to be up there okay because they're meant to overlap 100% okay
and it doesn't so what we're actually going to do is once we've built the entire leg there'll be a
big gap in the middle and I'll just make uh filler pieces of wood to glue in there later
they're not they're not hugely structural pieces and even when you do enough glue in there it'll
it'll be more than strong enough but that was a bit of a I wish I caught it on camera when I was
building this and I I realized that I'd messed up and I was like dang I said a couple bad words
that was a lot of explanation but we haven't addressed the elephant in the room this is
what I want okay this is the shape of the leg that I want except three inches thick okay
this is what I have right now they're not the same a couple of options to make this look like this
right if you've done any sort of woodworking you might know of one method and that's called
flush trimming this is a flush trim bit it has a bearing this one is a straight cutter it's got
two cutting surfaces there and there and it's got a half inch shank which is that thing what this
does and what it's designed to do is this bearing is designed to be the exact distance to the outer
knife okay so in other words the bearing is flush to the knife surface and why that's important
is if you have something like this which is a template and you have something like this
which is your piece of wood what you would do is you would stick this into something like a
router except a bigger router than this this is a trim router so it has a smaller shank size
they don't fit the bearing would ride along the template while the cutter spins and removes the
wood away does that kind of make sense do you kind of see that it's called flush trimming because
you will trim the wood flush to the template i can tell you from experience that um walnut
does not like straight cutters it likes spiral cutters if you use a straight cutter you tend to
like blow chunks out of the walnut and you can't just like hog out all this excess material if
you look how much material needs to be removed like that's a good three quarters of an inch there
you can't just like you can't just go like full line this and send it because if you do
you'll find that your work piece ends up in nine year over there as it kicks back
and then you'll have a massive chunk of walnut missing you rarely want to take very fine passes
with a flush trim bit so what you really need to do is get like a jigsaw or a bandsaw and then
like manually hog out a lot of this material beforehand and then just come up with the flush
trim bit and clean up the surfaces that is a lot of flip and work and sometimes i don't know whether
i'm lazy or try to do efficiency but that was too much work for me i tried it once and i was like
nah if i've got to do this eight times because each each leg is made up of four of these when
when you don't want to do something by yourself you get a robot to do it because a robot don't
complain and it does things very repeatedly and so instead of flush trimming i'm just machining
so ai huh ai no this has been around since like freaking 1950s i mean but ai sure if it makes the
gen z people happy because that's the buzzword going right now you say ai but like cnc's are
technically very dumb machines you tell them where to go and they just go okay so like ai
i screwed down a three-quarter inch mdf plate onto the bed and then i already coded in
like a template for the leg don't learn any drill skills from me please
that's an impact driver all i got to hope is that two screws are enough to hold it down which
yeah it should be fine i mean famous last words right should be fine everything's zeroed everything's
ready everything's loaded i'm going to hit cycle start um which is going to start it and i'm going
to turn on the fan louder than i thought it would be um so i did pause the cycle so what i was doing
the whole way through that was making sure that as the tool was part passing through the wood
it wasn't like missing anything so if it it kind of machined out here and it didn't hit the wood
then i know it wasn't machining right you can see how like everywhere there's an outline um and if
you were to look from this side but um there's actually a step in the wood so it machined the
wood even though you don't see pieces of the wood sticking out it did machine the wood um and that's
good that's what we want the cutter actually like blew out this side but it had enough wood to machine
on the inside so i'm not too worried so now that i know exactly where the cutter is going it makes it
a lot easier for me to put down some extra safety screws because i know if i put a screw here i don't
have to worry about the cutter hitting it so we're going to drill a hole
oh well start a bit of a fire there i just popped in three more screws in a safe location so now
we're going to restart the whole machining right after three rounds okay now it's finally done it's
not going to move it's still not moving because of the tabs that we put in there so remember i only
had these two screws well guess what if i remove the screw yeah this is holding nothing okay which
means if i hadn't put those screws in this wouldn't have been supported okay and those extra screws
were right below the tabs and let me show you what those tabs look like and why they're so important
yep that's what held it in place oh balls that's what happens when um you break the tab off instead of
cutting it off we have we have i have wood glue use wood glue like finger paint jaws also make
like the world's best glue dispensers you know um yeah there you go build a cutting board as your
second project give it about half an hour that will dry it'll be fine recall the 20 minute long
conversation which will probably be edited down of the inside versus the outside of the line
here's a very good demonstration of it do you see how there's a section that's raised in a section
that's sunk down like like this little thing over here so what happened was when i set the depth
that i was supposed to cut i set it too much um so when it cut through the wood it cut down into
the the piece of wood that i was resting on you will notice that the outside of this entire thing
is exactly one cutter width so that's basically following the outside of the line uh whereas in
the inside profile was falling the inside of the line so the outside edge of the bottom portion
that's the actual vector this is the outside and then this is the inside so that's that's really
kind of what that inside versus outside does it just kind of um takes care of the actual
width of the cutter the goal um for the remainder of my day which is basically just like 20 minutes
of work the next step will be to glue these on top of this this is now the exact outline of my leg
and this is exactly what i want i just need four more of these glued on top instead of taking this
and then cutting it to look like this and then trying to line it up it's way easier to take this
smear a whole bunch of glue pop this on clamp it down put this piece into the template that i have
on the router that little routed out bit because that centers this and zeroes it properly and then
i just rinse and repeat until i have a four thick and then then the leg is done basically from a
bolt point of view and all i need to do is just do some sanding then some um some spray varnish
now i will show you how i've used almost an entire tub of tight bond three pva glue
like this is this is this is this is a big tub it's a little bit unwieldy you might not want to
use it in every single situation well you decant it into a smaller tub so now it just has like a
nice little squirting nib right so you can just like send it this would have fit perfectly if i'd
remember to do that uh you'll also notice that i cut this plank a little bit too short and there
is a little piece sticking out in there which i'm going to need to fix later oh and on this side as
well i have a little piece that's a double fixer opera this is why you always measure twice cut
once type thing uh what happened here is i misread my writing because my writing is not the greatest
i wrote 23 but i read it as 22 um so this is these are an inch too short but that's a different
problem it's easy to hide i think it'll be fine so i'm just planning this out before i actually
glue it in place what what i'm actually trying to do let me just explain what i'm trying to do
is i'm trying to make sure as much as possible that these two pieces are in the middle of this
plank as much as possible that way i don't have to worry about fixing this gap that i cut i really
don't like tongue and groove but here we are in hindsight um i don't know why i made this a different
angle to the other piece leg but that was past carl's mistake and future carl is
kind of figuring out right now um there's two different angles so this is actually a taper
i think this is 60 degrees from the horizontal but this is like 40 something there are different
angles that's what i'm trying to say past carl did not make very good decisions when it came
came to how i angle these boards and it's making my current life a little bit of a nightmare
i think that's the best we can do sometimes you just got to say effort and it's kind of
the best you can the best you can get away with i'm just marking kind of where i've decided it's
going to be you theoretically never have enough glue you'd rather have more glue than not enough
glue um that's at least my philosophy i just use a finger spread method um uh i usually have like
a little roller or something and again like i said i couldn't find it so fingers it is
it's fine everything's fine let's care i feel like it's fine is going to be a very
recurring theme in the actual filming of the upgrade oh man it's already starting to dry
so what i'll do is i'll clamp this down um and make sure it like sits there for about half an hour
um or maybe an hour before i go home i'm putting way less clamping pressure than i normally would
once you have enough clamping pressure where like it's not moving as you're tightening down
that's kind of where you want to be and then you just want to like really send it now if you if you
pan down and you start looking at the joint you can see as i apply more pressure you'll start
seeing glue come squeezing out um obviously when i built this they're not perfectly planar you could
force wood to do things that you shouldn't really be able to so watch as it like as i tighten down
it's going to squeeze more glue out probably something i say in the uh the video itself but
the idea for this board game table came from two sources one was um a company called uh
Wormwood who released a big Kickstarter for a board gaming table that's what this is based off of
i like their rail system and i plan to order some of their accessories so i based my table
in a way that would accept their accessories however i didn't want to do their leg design
i wanted to do a tristle table well i found this guy um from alberta who built a table very similar
to what i wanted to do it's just i didn't like the top i liked his legs and the way he did um
the way he made the bottom of the table i just had i i wanted to do something different on the top
of the table so um i amalgamated the two the two designs i like to leave it longer than
necessary you could probably use this within like a couple hours i tend to like glue and then
just use it overnight uh like leave it overnight to dry um that's why i'm doing the glue now at
like 4 30 so that you know we'll go home for the day come back tomorrow this will be dry this will
probably be dry enough within like an hour that i can take all of these off add more glue put this
on top clamp all of it down and then leave for the night so that when we come back tomorrow
it'll be three thick we'll machine it on the avid and then we will try and place the last piece
after we've machined that and then we will machine the last piece and we'll have a completed leg
i think it's day seven or day eight probably day seven today what i wanted to film was actually
building the table surface i don't know if we've fully got this on camera yet i know that we filmed
some of building this but right behind arty is the actual big um plywood sheet that we machined out
it now has a bunch more holes in it that i've probably drilled off camera
big holes so that i can access some of the mounting hardware underneath and little holes
which take pocket screws that actually like get sunk into the rails to hold them to the actual
plywood sheet what we're going to do now is when i originally built this over there it was very square
when i rebuilt it yesterday off camera it wasn't square and i don't know why so we're
going to figure that out and once we figure that out and it's square we're going to lift up this
sheet put it on top and then we can actually do what i want to do today which is cut these ends
right now they're a little bit too long they need to be they need to be trimmed to size
but they need to be trimmed to size in line with uh the edge of this rail once we have it all square
and it's all neat we're going to use looks pretty gnarly um but this is a compression bit
but specifically a flash trim compression but you probably zoom in here uh when i originally
got it square i'd labeled every single side so i'd labeled the four corners one two three four
and i'd labeled the blocks the corner blocks correspondingly so this is one someone is
there's two and three and four so that i know what the configuration was when i originally
got it square and now all we need to do is make sure that we can repeat that and get it square
so that we can mount it to that so i can flush trim okay yep okay
i mean i am going to have a very nice um nylon coated neoprene that's burgundy color
because i think burgundy goes pretty well with walnut and you see how i have a little gap in
between here that's what it's going to slot underneath this little gap here nice it's called
the wrap it's called a rabbit and if you look underneath the table that's the legs that Kyle
spent all his time on okay there are just soul horses right now the legs that the actual legs
are at my house all righty i'm just going to put a couple more screws in around here and then
i'll do what we actually came here to do which is attach a very dangerous looking bit to the table
the goal is to like cut it straight yeah but we need some sort of template to guide it right
and because we can't go from underneath it's going to have to be from top and because it's
from the top it's going to have to be the follow the pattern side of this which means it is going
to be plunged deeper than i would like but we need to strap something to this that that can rest on
this is the benefit of owning a 3d printer i 3d print a lot of my jigs so once we flush trim this
i can stick this on the corner and then we'll just use that to nip the tips and then that's
basically the the outer shape right obviously i still have to make this this undercut around the
whole thing but the current goal right now is line up a template flush trim flush trim flush
flush trim all the corners once they're flush trimmed stick this on jigsaw it off flush trim it
again so that it's now rounded over okay it says 1.25 that's wrong it's 1.5 but if you made a bigger
template yeah you could do that in one step like if it lines up onto this side and here
then you have one template to do the so jigsaw and then flush trim it in one go
and then all four corners are the same because your reference off here and here
please not wrong but it's just more work the reason we're jigsawing this first is because
you don't want to just come in there with that flush trim bit and just send it you only want
to flush trim like less than a 16th or an eighth of an inch so that's kind of why i'm doing it this
way it's fine everything's fine it's fine okay so while you're busy remembering i'm gonna go and
then i'm going to like nip the tips of all my the rest of the table this is always the scary
part just came into my desk $2,000 walnut dust so all i did there was remove enough wood so that
when we do come with the rado it's not trying to remove like that much material that's too much
material for rada to try and remove in one pass um and now i get to do it again on this side
yeah i'm having someone who knows who's used that one thing before so what he's actually what we
actually going to do is just like bolt in aprons on the side here to act as like guides to allow us
to sit flush to explain what just happened this is now from a top down point the out the outline
of my table this is not the outline of the table from the side point i actually have to match the
60 degree chamfer all the way around okay it's very hard to do now that i've actually bolted
into the frame so what i might do is i might try and do it with a sander or something but if you
come on this side i have these two little gaps these two little gaps are actually um uh a byproduct
of when i table saw these gaps in here to hold this metal piece in place which is going to form my
magnetic attachment mechanism so i'm going to make a piece that plugs in here and glue it in
place and then make a 60 and you'll never see it again but right now it's there but it will look
better but in terms of the outline of the table this is pretty much how it's going to look so it
looks pretty sweet it is one week before filming so next week thursday we're actually going to film
the LTT there is the table as it stands right now the semi pans over i don't know where we ended
off last time a lot of stuff has been happening i literally lost a week due to sickness but we're
ones over there i don't know where the other one is it somewhere but that's what we're going to be
doing today is changing out the saw horses for proper legs which is easier than it sounds and
theoretically shouldn't be too much work but i said that last time i tried to do something simple
and it ended up taking way longer but the cool a cool thing that i can show people so these arrived
last week and these are accessories from wormwood the company i was telling you about earlier on
the video as the inspiration for the top half of the table i got cup holders in different kind of
woods so usually four of us end up playing a board game at a time so me and my wife and then
my friend and his wife um so i thought it'd be a great idea for each of us to have our own colored
cup holder so this is purple hot um you can you can it's it's so named because it's purple
right i want to say cherry am i right pretty thick ring magnets and this will just slide on
like that they're designed to sit just like a little bit below so if you if you come down
the magnet is to hold it that way right um you theoretically don't need the magnet
because a lot of the holding force is coming from just being jammed against this piece and
this bottom piece right so that's how it rests there the the magnet is just to make sure that it
like doesn't move back and forth and everything like that right but that test that it slides in
and sits nice was the exact test that i needed to ensure that i got the height of this correct
because these accessories are machined to a very specific height and i need to make sure that my gap
in between these two was is right and it's looking that way uh what i did notice quickly as i pop
that in is this is going to be a very tight fit yeah it's very tight and once the cup holder's down
it's fine um but i have made my armrest width wider than i think one would make their tables
i think one would make their tables to like i don't know i think this is like 3.8 or four inches
mine's like more four and a quarter almost i like the i like i like wide armrests that's just me
and i made the tables i get to choose if this accessory is being designed for a four inch rail
and i've now made a bigger obviously it's not going to work as intended but i don't really care
because if you don't want this you can just take it out and then just put it back in and that's
i can't live without that and that's kind of why i like this accessory system is because it's so
simple to put stuff oh someone needs to move chairs oh no that's so hard to move something
instead of having like a leather surface for a plain surface i was actually going to route a
pocket out and stick a usb type c powered lcd screen very similar to what Linus stuck in the
in his van for his kids right i think ASUS released some sort of gaming monitor that all you need to
do is plug in the USB-C and that carries both power and you know the data signal considering
we're going to have computers bolted directly under the table having extra screens that you can
just take a USB-C cable i don't know either i'll make like a nice little plug to plug it in here
or you can just have some sort of dock underneath the table that you can plug the the screen into
you can now have a screen and because we play dnd in person but we use dungeon something or
other but it's like we're all 20 just a different version of it so because we play online we have
to have some sort of screen there and it's great if each individual person has a screen because
then they can control their character individually rather than having like one person move everything
kind of just makes it flow better so that's that's the the eventual goal is when there's four of us
sitting here there's going to be one at each corner each with our own you know cup holder
and then we're going to have our player desk with our screen and the screen is going to be hooked
up into the computer which is running the game and then you know the dm can sit there and we can
make something else for him to sit on because he needs a lot more stuff if you need more stuff you
can just make something with these magnets and this thickness and then you can just plug it in and
let's say he needs uh i don't know a tiny little tray for his books so he can have his books over
here you just make a little thingy that sticks out pop it on and when you're done you just take it
off and you can play a different board game and we're building this little bit over here so so
this is the this is a leg we have the two legs the the idea is that those toppers when they're not
in use can get slid into the legs so i have gaps for them to slide um we're going to run a pocket
out of the legs uh half an inch deep so that this can rest on the leg and then we'll just put a bolt
in from this side just to make sure it doesn't move this is cut one inch longer than it needs to be
so that once we cut the half inch pocket on each leg the final dimension between the legs will be
correct but the half an inch is just so that it sits into the leg a little bit makes it a little
more secure but ultimately this keeps the legs um a certain distance apart as well as it's going to
be one of the main supporting beams for both computers and so both computers will like rest
on this and then we'll have two server rails one for each computer so what we're about to do right
now and every single time we fire up that cnc we've now started to double check the program
beforehand by just jogging over where it's going so that we don't send it and then like routes a
massive gouge and like it did last time we've been doing things um but in theory we route this
pocket i put the other leg on we run the same program i route the other pocket and then i'll
set both legs up here and we'll try and we'll try and fit that piece of plank in between both of them
and hopefully it fits first time and then i will need to 3d print some drill guides or just freehand
but then we need to attach some hardware to this in order for it to bolt to the legs securely
and yeah that's another step complete and then the legs will be able to be freestanding by themselves
and then all we'll need to do is attach the last piece to the legs which is this piece
this piece will attach the legs and this will have three drill holes into it which is going to attach
to the underside of this so we glue this to the legs and then we bolt this to the table surface
and that's what attaches the legs to we're on the home stretch uh let's hope that the that the that
the cnc program is correct um because we're about to run it now so well i don't know if you guys
heard much of that it'll probably be cut out but uh seven hour talking there was a bit of
blowout at the end here uh basically what blowout is is as a router bit is going through
certain parts of the wood can like fray off and be very chunky just based on the direction of
that the bit is spinning and where it's traveling um so over here you can see that it's like frayed
a bit we were using a down cut bit and as the as it was traveling past there was a very thin piece
that it knocked and as it knocked it kind of broken tall um what we will be doing next time
is just putting a piece of tape it just kind of helps secure the wood so you get a cleaner cut
which may or may not do anything yeah it may not yeah it's it's kind of
when you do stuff with a router bit blowout is something that you accept or you try and
account for as much as possible uh we we deliberately undersized it um
refer to my previous comment of um over cutting stuff i think what i'm going to do is i'm going
to drill from underneath and all from the top because the top is going to be blocked by the
computer so like myself when dead blowy make sure that you understand where the location of the
backswing is going if you know what i'm saying i basically i don't want to um have to chisel away
the corner there uh i'm actually chamfering the corner anyway so
now that i've lobbed the corners off it's a lot better
i have to lob the corners off anyway so we're literally just going to do that whole thing again
and then that's it all that needs to be done now while i remove this tape that i we use for just
holding it down um is drill the mounting hardware for the um
the corner hardware that i use on the rails we're having a discussion off camera on
whether i should go back to my desk spend a couple minutes measuring and designing um
some 3d printable templates or drill guides which i was talking about earlier
or we just go full send and and go for it so i have one packet of these of this hardware left
okay one packet four bolts but in theory all we need to do is drill three holes okay one hole
for the nut which is very simple you just drill on the center line somehow uh and you send that in
that's very easy yeah then you need to drill another hole at the same mating point here
for this thing to go in and then perpendicular to that you need to drill another hole for this
thing to go and line up so this is a 1532 so that's usually for this thing
so we drill the big youngest hole in this thing however i know that this was a little bit too tight
so we'll go this is 1532 so one above that is 1632 which is what exactly one half yeah 1632
is one half do we have a 31 64 drill bit i can do math 31 64 what up where did he go
you said we'll do math and then he goes and what i did off camera was mark uh 45 a 45 millimeter
line so i just locked my calibers to 45 and scribed the line and then i halved the distance from
this which is like this is 53.10 so half is 26.55 and i just marked it there so in theory that is the
dead center of the pole and i did the same on the other end the trick is to drill it straight
now as i mentioned when i was talking about the 3d printing stuff uh i'm not great at drilling
straight but we're going to give it a go because time is of the essence and
seems easy enough uh that was the pilot hole
chamfering drill bit it's a drill bit that kind of like
chamfers out the hole which i need to fit the flange nut in in the meantime i am going to try
and drill the hole for this piece so obviously this nut is going into the end of the table
and then this thing goes into the nut on the inside so this is now in this piece you can imagine
that and then we stick this into there so now i need to drill that hole and that hole is
about needs to be about that thick the hole can be wider than this and should be wider
so that i can pass through uh this hole doesn't really support anything other than just a means
of passage of this thing so really it can be extremely oversized but i try to keep it close
enough um so i think i'm using a 1332 drill bit and again the the idea is to go straight
but um why i'm recording is i want to stop at a specific depth uh so what i'll use is i'll use
um this as a uh measurement and then i'll put a piece of tapey tape right so i need to go down
at least at least this deep right so i'll just butt that up there okay so i want to go down
at least that deep so i'll just um that's about there but i'll go a little bit deeper just so
that there's a bit of um tolerance on there so i'll put this piece of tape uh tape around my drill bit
and then once that piece of tape touches the wood i'll know where to stop
there you go see i stopped when i got there not the cleanest hole i've ever drilled
if i'm being honest and tell you what that hole is a lot more centered than that hole
which i'm seriously contemplating putting this drill bit inside that drill press
and trying to force it to go in a different direction
what i don't want is to try and assemble the legs and the the bar fits but when you try and
put the hardware in the hardware tries to move the leg into a different position right because
the location of those holes are going to help guide the poles into position so if the hole is
off centered it's going to like try and pull the pole wrong you know what horizontal wise it's fine
so on the up and down it's fine on the on the center line it's it's not so fine um it's
it is very um 26.55 is what we're aiming for that's millimeters because really
metric is the only unit system yeah you can see it's supposed to the center of the circle is supposed
to be on the tip of that caliper it's like a millimeter off it's it's enough where it's
actually a problem so what i'm trying to do now is i've started the drill hole and it's off center
right and if you've ever tried to fix that with your hand it's almost impossible because as soon
as you try and drill the hole in a different location if any part of your your drill bit is
touching the previous hole your drill bit will just naturally strip to that hole um this is a
lot more rigid and i can probably force it not to touch that hole and drill a proper hole yeah
looks a lot better now so that is if anyone is counting two out of the three holes or four out
of the six because we have to do it twice that is the hole for this done and the hole for this
done so what that means is it'll be able to go in yay now all that needs to happen
is that this needs to be here somewhere that's what we're aiming for so what i'll do in that case
is i'll measure with the caliper this time because i actually do care a little bit it's 30 millimeters
from the from this line here to the center of that hole if i set this to three millimeters
and then i just butt this up against this face and scribe a line that's where i need to drill but
now i just need to make sure it's centered and for that i'm going to probably use a square or
something something a little bit more um precision the reason why i say a square or something is i
actually need to transfer this center line so i've referenced this center line from this face here
but this face doesn't exist on this plane so what i could do is line up like the
scribing line in such a way so you can see how i've scribed that line if i butt a square up against it
and i know this is square i know this is square so if i use that to that i'll
should get an accurate dimension it's not perfect and it's there's way better ways to do that it's
just it's late and i want to get this done so the biggest concern that i have with this is i have
enough um shank length to go the depth that i need to go and the depth that i need to go is
to bring this hole in line with this hole right so basically i want this over here i need this i
need this sitting exactly there but just inside the wood okay to get that i'll need to measure this
height we're going to wing it for the first one we'll probably get a rough depth probably about
there i love how i started this whole recording with how i like using 3d printing to do drill jigs
and everything and now i'm like completely freehanding it hoping that a flippin works
time to test uh kind of let's just say i might have to do some work on that hole some wood
splintering inside there that's causing not the greatest fit of this if you rewind a couple of
minutes um there used to be a massive gap in the middle here which i've bridged together with pieces
of wood it just so happens that at that exact location uh there's some wood splintering happening
there um you're not going to notice it because it's in the middle but because i'm trying to use it as
like the centerpiece for this it's actually causing a bit of problems but it is what it is um
um good news is it seems to it seems to work fine even with that being a problem
so now all i need to do is do it again for this side
and if that works then i'm done and the next time that we uncut
what we start rolling um i in theory i should have it assembled together on the floor
once i have this one drilled
there you go yep yeah i'll i'll say yay later once i actually get it assembled
inside the correct holes that we drilled earlier now i can put these bars inside the holes
so now we have two bars and holes now in theory this will go in there
and that will line up perfectly actually oh wow that worked way better than i thought it would
considering i was not comfortable with my measurements it's lift this up
align this there put it through the hole
and realize we have a different problem that's a different problem i don't want to talk about it
what doesn't work i don't know why it doesn't work
this is the answer like you can see there's a gap there and there's no gap here which means
one of the holes is shifted that way either this hole or this hole right because over here
you can see there's no gap and it fits right right that's that's what we want we want that
but what we have is you can you can see it from from from here right so you can see
there's a gap there's a gap on the side there's no gap on the side right one of the holes is
not centered relative to each other so it's it's making it sit that way if they sat in the same
line it would there would be no gap on either side and it would just fit and i am a little bit sad
because this one fit so well i was i was really excited that it was going to work first time
okay so let's see what we've got here i think the only fix for this one is to widen the hole
so long story short that hole is not centered by probably the amount this hole is not centered
this way and that hole is not centered that way when you add them together it causes that massive
gap i could flip the plank over i could flip the plank over never mind
what have you never seen me work no the first time
oh
i think i have the same problem on the other side just in the opposite direction
nope nope nope nope nope we got unless that was the same i think that i think i flipped it over
i think i flipped it over come on come on
there you go okay one side is centered wrong this way and the other side was centered wrong
that way i had them opposite each other so they were stacking up in the wrong direction
i flipped the pole over now this side lined up it was a slight concern that flipping the side
had the same problem but in reverse on the other side so that's what i was like really laughing at
because that would be like just my f in luck right now
i don't know if i've mentioned this on camera but like yesterday at home i built
i built one of the computers going into the into this like there's two the two computers are
going to go here i built one of them yesterday just to make sure all the components fit
um oh balls and the system didn't post so like
nothing of this f in upgrade has been simple and nothing has worked from the outset
yeah maybe maybe
i did a bad job on this drill
hole we won't talk about it ever please
it's looking smaller in real life than it did on the computer i don't even know what day this one
don't even ask me um but it is actually two days after today before shooting it is monday
and i'm filming on thursday and everything is kind of done so here the legs i just need to
sand the top that i added so this is the final shape of the leg let me get a prettier leg because
i'm going to actually cover that little gash there with neoprene why am i still in a panic
if everything is done these are sanded they're nice and smooth but you do not leave wood unfinished
this is unfinished walnut which means if someone came along with a mug of water and they stuck it
here it would leave a nice little ring and i'd be very mad i have two things that i'm going to finish
the wood with we're going to start with some gentle finishes enduro sanding sealer so what that does
is provide a very nice layer between the sanded wood and the top coat so this is what we call
a base coat it's kind of there just to go between the wood and whatever you add on the top and the
top is called a top coat the reason why i'm using general finishes sanding sealer is because i'm
using general finishes as the top coat so they the general finishes obviously recommends their
product as the base coat i could have used something else but you know if i'm using this as the top
coat i'm probably just going to use their same product as as the base coat just because they're
designed to work together now this is a conversion or catalyst varnish which means the two part
varnish you mix these two together in a ratio that's somewhere over here and you put it on top of it
the reason i chose this finish is because it's designed for bar tops and if you know how much
abuse bar tops take you kind of know why i went this is because it's it's designed to be the strongest
of the strong finishes and i really don't want to refinish the table and i have kids and kids
sometimes do stuff that they're not supposed to do this should survive a water spill as long as you
clear it up and don't leave the water sitting there for like seven days i'm going to do two or three
coats of this and a single coat of this and the reason i'm panicked is because let's do math i have
to spray this which means i need to take apart this entire table that's together and hang it up so i
need to suspend it from something because this but this is a spray varnish i can't i can't brush it on
with a paintbrush you have to spray it with a high volume low pressure sprayer which i have over
there and i'll show you in a second so i have to spray it so i need to hang this somehow and that
somehow it still hasn't been figured out now once i spray it with the base coat i have to wait
upwards of one hour to an hour and a half for it to dry enough before i can scuff sand it and be
allowed to spray another coat right so if i'm doing one coat of this and two to three coats of this
i need at least two to three hours of just drying time assuming that it's dry like
assuming it's dry enough in that hour and i don't have to wait longer
plus the time taken to spray it plus the fact that i need to sleep plus the fact that once i'm
done spraying theoretically i'm supposed to wait seven days before action like it fully cures and
we're filming in three means i need to get the stuff sprayed on like yesterday and it's three
o'clock on monday and right now all i have is that i basically section off our paint booth
and just run drop cloth so this is plastic very thin drop cloth because this workshop
is dusty as flip and you don't want any dust when you're spraying because that dust is going to get
collected and then you're going to have like little flecks of dust all in your finish and it's
going to look terrible so what i'm trying to do is create a dust-free environment as possible
but everything's working against me because if you come over here there is a hole so you see that
silver pipe thing there is a hole next to that silver pipe that's the intake for the HVAC system
so when it outputs it needs to take in air yeah that's where it takes in there so if you think
about there's dust suspended in the air well that dust travels and goes up there so and i can't
i can't block this entire area off because if i do that air still needs to get in there
here's to hoping that if i spray down here i'm hoping that the dust just goes that way and
doesn't settle down it's a mild hope but we'll see how it goes i think it'll be a major fire hazard
if i start hanging it from the um you know the uh fire sprayers so i'm going to have to find some
way to put like command hooks or mount something to the walls like a like a pole or something
that i can then hang the stuff off even if it's vertical as long as it's suspended within the air
in a way that i can turn so like nothing can be resting on a flat surface because i need to cover
all sides right so i can't like unless i spray one side wait for it to dry then flip it over then
spray the others but then i'm losing more hours so ideally i want to invest the time to hang the
stuff so i can spray bugger all for an hour come back scuff sand it and then spray again what this
finish will do is i'm not staining it right that's that's an important thing um this is not a stain
so like a stain will change like the darkness of a wood so if you had like a light wood like maple
or something like that and you wanted it to look dark you would use a stain and that stain would
darken the wood but walnut is naturally dark and walnut has a very nice um natural kind of grain
pattern and i've chosen faces that i really like so i don't want to stain it all i want to do is like
seal it that's kind of why i've gone with polyurethane finishes um this is a polyurethane it's a
water-based one um it's catalyzed polyurethane but it is polyurethane so all that all that's going to
do is uh make the grain pop a little bit so it'll be a little bit more defined and it's going to
provide like a nice little semi-gloss finish oh the only other thing we have to do is um we're
going to brush we're going to brush um polyurethane onto the plywood just to seal that off and because
that surface is really not going to be seen i just picked up this cheap can of uh it wasn't cheap it
was like 40 bucks but whatever this uh fast dry and water-based polyurethane that you just brush
on so it's just yeah it's a brush on polyurethane it's what we used for um our work benches in
crater warehouse and i'm going to have sebastian do this um yeah and that'll be brushed on polyurethane
so that'll at least be protected um this is going to get covered with a uh play surface anyway but
i still want it coated just in case water spill the finish is finished no ideally the
finishing is finished no later than tomorrow that's a tongue twister
this used to be a silver side panel switching gears uh what i am actually going to do is bolt
a piece of wood to it looks pretty cool um i'm going to bolt a piece of wood to it and the rail
is going to bolt one one side of the rail is going to bolt onto this and the other side is
going to bolt onto uh the leg and the cross brace um we will probably be bolting the rails
to this uh in the video because i don't i ordered the rails yesterday and they'll be arriving tomorrow
so odds are i won't be doing it before the actual filming so that'll be a fun thing for
liners tonight to do so yeah there's a lot to be done before thursday just to make like the whole
place filmable um and i'm kind of really nervous about how much time i have to spray this especially
since i don't flip and know how i'm going to hang this which weighs like a small child
from i need to hang it like this or like this thankfully it's got some very nice little like
loopy hanging holes and i do have string i just need something to attach the string to
that's not going to break when i hang it because imagine spraying this and being done walking
off for an hour coming back and it's falling on the floor because your hanging solutions trash
and that's what i'm concerned about because i've already dropped something on a corner and almost
dented it and had to like sand it and i'd said some very bad words yesterday when i dropped it
i was hoping to have the first coat the base coat sprayed and done two hours ago and i don't
even hang have the stuff hanged up and i've still got to sand this so good news is everything fits
everything works the computers fit in perfectly and if things do go sideways we can film the video
without me spray sealing all of this it's just not going to look as good and then i can spray seal
afterwards so there is a backup plan um but yeah so like there's the rough part there's the smooth
part um looking looking over the surface i still have some like grooves that i want to get away
so i might just focus on some of these spots um you can see my planer kind of cut this groove if
you follow my finger can you see that groove yeah you're following it correctly so basically what
happened was i probably sent um a piece of lumber through my planer with a knot and my planer has
knives and i have a little nick in one of the knives so it just kind of every time you pass that
exact spot it like messes it up um the solution to that would be to replace the knives but um
they're expensive um and i haven't switched to a helical cutter which has a whole bunch of little
like tiny little knives that you're gonna replace rather than one big knife um but that's easy to
just sand out and get rid of so yeah it's one of those things where it's like it's just easy to
sand it out and call it a day but yeah i've just got a bunch more of that to do um and sami will
just leave whenever he's done and yeah the next time you'll see me we'll have a lot more of the
table ready to show and be a lot closer to filming um which is pretty exciting uh thanks for watching
this exclusive it's probably going to be a long one good luck to sami for editing this whole thing
but i hope you learned something i didn't go through all the steps i did like the milling
process of the lumber face gluing everything to build the to build the wider rails and
all of that yeah watch the LTT if you haven't um this will come out off the LTT so if you
haven't watched the the upgrade watch it i have no doubt it's going to be hilarious um
hopefully Linus doesn't break too many things i don't know because it hasn't been filmed yet