WEBVTT 00:00:00.000 --> 00:00:05.320 Hello, my name is Tatiana, in case you do not know, I work in product development here at Creator Warehouse, 00:00:05.320 --> 00:00:09.120 and today we'll be looking into fabric testing, which is great because I heard that some of the 00:00:09.120 --> 00:00:12.600 all-float-pain beeps have been commenting saying that you want a more deep dive 00:00:12.600 --> 00:00:17.240 into what goes into product testing, which is amazing because that is my favorite part, 00:00:17.240 --> 00:00:21.560 and ask and you shall receive. We will be going behind the scenes into our clothing 00:00:21.560 --> 00:00:25.920 and seeing how the standardized tests can relate to real-world performance. 00:00:25.920 --> 00:00:29.600 We'll be looking into a variety of things, such as color facets of different fabrics, 00:00:29.600 --> 00:00:32.640 abrasion testing, some water-repellency testing, 00:00:32.640 --> 00:00:35.800 some launder testing, as well as some weight 00:00:35.800 --> 00:00:39.080 using a GSM cutter. So for some of the standardized tests that we do, 00:00:39.080 --> 00:00:44.560 we look at things like color fastest to laundering, we look at things like abrasion resistance, 00:00:44.560 --> 00:00:48.880 we look at everything in regards to color fastest to lighting, 00:00:48.880 --> 00:00:53.240 changing in all these different areas, and one of the things that we also look at is, 00:00:53.240 --> 00:00:57.640 for example, such as the cult favorite, Uncle Linus Hoodie, 00:00:57.680 --> 00:01:03.040 which is getting a little bit of a refreshment, doing it in a different kind of construction 00:01:03.040 --> 00:01:10.200 for future releases, hopefully, is we look at something like a ATC 8-2016, 00:01:10.200 --> 00:01:17.280 which you can see is color fastest to cropping, or you can look at it as in color transfer 00:01:17.280 --> 00:01:21.760 from a lighter colored fabric. So when looking at the actual tests, 00:01:21.760 --> 00:01:26.920 you can see that with these white strips, which is also called cropping cloth, 00:01:26.920 --> 00:01:30.360 is evaluated up against what's called a crock meter. 00:01:30.360 --> 00:01:35.120 When you are doing that, essentially, you are rubbing, doing a rubbing motion against the fabric 00:01:35.120 --> 00:01:39.160 in order to see if there's any color transfer, either in dry conditions, 00:01:39.160 --> 00:01:42.360 so that would just be a standard condition, as well as in wet conditions 00:01:42.360 --> 00:01:45.560 that it's wetted with still water. If any color transfer has occurred, 00:01:45.560 --> 00:01:48.800 you would evaluate it on a grayscale method. 00:01:48.800 --> 00:01:53.640 So essentially, it is like a piece of cardstock that has a variety of different grays 00:01:53.640 --> 00:01:57.400 that have a different opacity, and it is assigned a number. 00:01:57.400 --> 00:02:02.240 That test technician would then go to something like a light box with a standard lighting condition, 00:02:02.240 --> 00:02:05.240 and then evaluate the crocking cloth 00:02:05.240 --> 00:02:10.520 that had any color transfer that occurred to the standard grays that are listed out 00:02:10.520 --> 00:02:15.360 in a one-to-five scale. So five would be the best, therefore, you would see practically nothing 00:02:15.360 --> 00:02:19.440 on the crocking cloth, or it would be a one where you would see a significant change. 00:02:19.440 --> 00:02:22.720 Then once we get that test, we are able to evaluate whether or not 00:02:22.720 --> 00:02:28.280 it meets the requirement, and we will continue, or we will ask our supplier and say, 00:02:28.280 --> 00:02:32.120 hey, we definitely need to make this better, because we don't want any color transfer. 00:02:32.120 --> 00:02:36.200 Last thing you want is to sit on a white couch, and for you to come up, 00:02:36.200 --> 00:02:39.720 and there to be a color transfer that occurred. So the next one that I will be talking about 00:02:39.720 --> 00:02:44.720 is also AATCC 61 version 2013. 00:02:45.640 --> 00:02:49.000 So essentially what this is, is color fastest washing. 00:02:49.000 --> 00:02:52.680 When you look at it, how it's done is you take the fabric, 00:02:52.680 --> 00:03:00.160 and you sew it with a multi-fiber strip. So this uses acetate, a cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic, 00:03:00.160 --> 00:03:05.440 and the last one is like a worsted wool. So that would essentially encompass, for example, 00:03:05.440 --> 00:03:10.760 any other trims or anything that is on a garment, or when you bundle everything up to throw in the wash, 00:03:10.760 --> 00:03:15.520 obviously they're all gonna have different fiber contents. The cool thing about this machine 00:03:15.520 --> 00:03:20.680 is essentially you would add in a metal cup with the test specimen with the multi-fiber strip, 00:03:20.680 --> 00:03:25.800 as well as 50 steel balls, in order to simulate a tumbling cycle, 00:03:25.800 --> 00:03:30.840 and you would add the washing detergent, and therefore it would spin a lot of time, 00:03:30.840 --> 00:03:35.080 and then you would dry the fabric specimen with the multi-fiber strip, 00:03:35.080 --> 00:03:39.480 and then you would evaluate that multi-fiber strip to see if there was any color change that occurred. 00:03:39.480 --> 00:03:42.840 Within this, again, you would be using the same grayscale 00:03:42.840 --> 00:03:47.000 in order to evaluate, but instead of using it with just a standard white cloth, 00:03:47.000 --> 00:03:51.680 like the crocking cloth, you would use it for the multi-fiber strip of all the different fiber contents. 00:03:51.680 --> 00:03:54.720 So each fiber would be given a scale within that. 00:03:54.720 --> 00:03:58.320 And again, using that grayscale with the different opacities, 00:03:58.320 --> 00:04:02.720 you would then evaluate the different fiber strips. Another way that we look into fabrics 00:04:02.720 --> 00:04:06.240 is by, for example, looking at standard tests 00:04:06.240 --> 00:04:09.720 and seeing how they would relate to real-world scenarios. 00:04:09.720 --> 00:04:14.360 For example, when looking at the backpack, we are looking at a variety of different construction types 00:04:14.360 --> 00:04:19.280 when considering the double layer that we will add for future backpack iterations. 00:04:19.280 --> 00:04:24.360 So we looked at a variety of different sample constructions, for example, such as when looking at bonding 00:04:24.360 --> 00:04:29.120 with a different adhesive, as well as some stitched ones that are stitched with self 00:04:29.120 --> 00:04:32.280 or stitched with other different types of fabrics 00:04:32.280 --> 00:04:35.960 to see what would behave the best. Now, when looking at that in comparison 00:04:35.960 --> 00:04:39.360 to different testing standards, one of the tests that we used 00:04:39.360 --> 00:04:44.360 was ASTM D49-66-12 version 2016, 00:04:44.640 --> 00:04:50.720 which is essentially a abrasion resistance test where you would use 12 kilopascals of pressure 00:04:50.720 --> 00:04:53.880 and the endpoint would be 10,000 rubs. So when looking at that, 00:04:53.880 --> 00:04:57.800 when you're looking at the actual test machine, has the weights that are applied 00:04:57.800 --> 00:05:01.960 and a standard cloth on the bottom and your tested specimen on top, 00:05:01.960 --> 00:05:08.120 which is then rubbed in a Lissajul's pattern in order to get the overall rubbing on the test specimen, 00:05:08.120 --> 00:05:11.680 which you would then evaluate, again, on a graded scale. 00:05:11.680 --> 00:05:14.680 And I always like to bring in the test specimens as well 00:05:14.680 --> 00:05:19.720 to see how much has been abraded through. So sometimes tests happen randomly right at our office, 00:05:19.720 --> 00:05:23.840 especially when I get in a lot of new development fabrics. I like to get my hands right in there 00:05:23.840 --> 00:05:28.200 to make sure that it's an offering that we want to develop and bring to market. 00:05:28.200 --> 00:05:31.280 So a lot of times I will do a water repellency test, 00:05:31.280 --> 00:05:34.960 which is essentially just using a good old bottle of H2O 00:05:34.960 --> 00:05:38.440 and spraying it on the fabric to see whether or not it starts to beat off 00:05:38.440 --> 00:05:43.080 or whether it starts to absorb in the actual fabric. So for example, this is a fabric 00:05:43.080 --> 00:05:46.520 that we are looking at developing that may be for future launches. 00:05:46.520 --> 00:05:49.800 So this is a nylon base with a DWR, 00:05:49.800 --> 00:05:52.920 which is a durable water repellency coating on the face. 00:05:52.920 --> 00:05:56.240 The membrane is a E-PTFE, 00:05:56.240 --> 00:06:00.600 which is an expanded polytetrafluoroethylene membrane 00:06:00.600 --> 00:06:05.440 that is used for a variety of properties, such as water repellency and thermal resistance, 00:06:05.440 --> 00:06:09.200 and then also a nylon meshback. So something like that. 00:06:09.200 --> 00:06:12.520 It's something that we would do in office in comparison to a standard test 00:06:12.520 --> 00:06:17.360 when I would send it off for third-party testing. We would do AATCC-22, 00:06:17.360 --> 00:06:20.960 which is a water repellency test where the fabric is late at an angle, 00:06:20.960 --> 00:06:25.680 and then you would spray a certain amount of water, and based off of whether or not it starts to beat off 00:06:25.680 --> 00:06:29.360 the fabric or start to absorb, again, it'd be rated on a scale. 00:06:29.360 --> 00:06:33.400 And then obviously, the more it beats off, the better it performs, the less 00:06:33.400 --> 00:06:37.560 you probably need to reevaluate your coating. Or when measuring how a fabric resists water, 00:06:37.560 --> 00:06:44.280 you could look at something like a hydrostatic test where we would use something like AATCC-127, 00:06:44.280 --> 00:06:49.360 which is essentially where you would take a piece of fabric and fit it over a water column, 00:06:49.360 --> 00:06:54.360 and you would measure based off of the water pressure how much it takes in order for it to actually leak 00:06:54.360 --> 00:06:58.520 and rupture the fabric. Another way that we do in-house office tests 00:06:58.520 --> 00:07:03.000 is through laundry testing. So a lot of times when we get proto samples 00:07:03.000 --> 00:07:08.360 or any quality samples in general, we like to do a good old-fashioned laundry test. 00:07:08.360 --> 00:07:13.560 So here is an example of another thing that hopefully you will find soon on lttsor.com. 00:07:13.560 --> 00:07:17.240 And with that, we do a very standard washing test, 00:07:17.240 --> 00:07:21.840 the same as that would react in any home, and then afterwards we take those key points 00:07:21.840 --> 00:07:27.560 in order to measure to see things like shrinkage and how it behaves, whether or not it starts to spill, 00:07:27.560 --> 00:07:31.280 whether there's any color fastest changes, and we would obviously evaluate that 00:07:31.280 --> 00:07:35.360 and look into it further to make sure that it wouldn't happen for anything that gets put into production. 00:07:35.360 --> 00:07:41.120 So here, next to the engineering area, we actually have our handy-dandy washer and dryer. 00:07:41.120 --> 00:07:46.480 So usually I'm running up and down those steps in order to get my steps in and work these bad boys, 00:07:46.480 --> 00:07:49.600 whether we do something like three washes and three dries 00:07:49.600 --> 00:07:53.800 or whatever the team is looking for. Since I have one here, I'll show you how it works, 00:07:53.800 --> 00:07:58.520 which you should obviously already know how to wash and dry, but you know what, you never know. 00:07:58.520 --> 00:08:04.360 And these are standard mother's gain laundry detergent that has a synthetic smell that leaves everyone wondering, 00:08:04.360 --> 00:08:09.800 why the hell are you doing this? It's usually when we're running it for long periods of time, over and over again, 00:08:09.800 --> 00:08:13.160 it just absolutely, it has everything smelling 00:08:13.160 --> 00:08:16.240 like fresh laundry. So another thing that's super interesting with laundry, 00:08:16.240 --> 00:08:20.120 get a load of this, CGSB, which is the Canadian General Standards Board, 00:08:20.120 --> 00:08:23.480 has actually put out a disclaimer for their home laundering conditions, 00:08:23.480 --> 00:08:27.520 saying that they can't necessarily keep totally up to date 00:08:27.520 --> 00:08:33.200 with the washer and dryer industry, because essentially what they're doing is they care more 00:08:33.200 --> 00:08:38.400 about the effectiveness of washing and drying and not necessarily keeping your clothes in mint condition 00:08:38.400 --> 00:08:43.400 and keeping them for long periods of time. Therefore, they always recommend, and so do I, 00:08:43.400 --> 00:08:48.880 to follow the care instructions, because all of this high heat and high with washing 00:08:48.880 --> 00:08:52.560 as well as drying and that really fast tumbling process 00:08:52.560 --> 00:08:56.960 is essentially just deteriorating your clothes. So that's one key laundry tip 00:08:56.960 --> 00:09:01.520 is to always follow the care instructions. Lastly, another thing that we do in house a lot 00:09:01.520 --> 00:09:06.840 is getting the weight of a garment. So this, for example, is a GSM cutter, 00:09:06.840 --> 00:09:11.160 and GSM stands for grams per square meter, which can be used to calculate density. 00:09:11.160 --> 00:09:15.040 We put this little rubber plate in behind, we put it on top, 00:09:15.040 --> 00:09:20.000 and when you can see, it actually has a little blade in there 00:09:20.000 --> 00:09:24.400 in order to cut it, and this will create a perfect circular diameter 00:09:24.400 --> 00:09:31.240 of 113 millimeters. So hold it down, punch through it, peel it away, 00:09:31.640 --> 00:09:34.960 and there you go. You would take this and basically weigh it, 00:09:34.960 --> 00:09:39.160 and that would give you an accurate GSM, at least preliminary. 00:09:39.160 --> 00:09:42.560 Of course, we do a lot of third-party testing as well 00:09:42.560 --> 00:09:46.280 to confirm because you never know, because this is not necessarily, of course, 00:09:46.280 --> 00:09:50.760 standardized conditions. Therefore, it's always good to do that preliminary first, 00:09:50.760 --> 00:09:57.120 and then always check again beforehand. That is it for testing. We are always looking towards innovating and adapting 00:09:57.120 --> 00:10:02.440 and having new standards going forward in order to match any real-world scenarios, 00:10:02.440 --> 00:10:07.240 and create the best, most long-lasting products, and hopefully, you learned a little bit more 00:10:07.240 --> 00:10:10.120 about fabric testing, and maybe a laundry tip on there too.