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Hello, my name is Tatiana, in case you do not know, I work in product development here at Creator Warehouse,

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and today we'll be looking into fabric testing, which is great because I heard that some of the

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all-float-pain beeps have been commenting saying that you want a more deep dive

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into what goes into product testing, which is amazing because that is my favorite part,

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and ask and you shall receive. We will be going behind the scenes into our clothing

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and seeing how the standardized tests can relate to real-world performance.

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We'll be looking into a variety of things, such as color facets of different fabrics,

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abrasion testing, some water-repellency testing,

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some launder testing, as well as some weight

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using a GSM cutter. So for some of the standardized tests that we do,

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we look at things like color fastest to laundering, we look at things like abrasion resistance,

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we look at everything in regards to color fastest to lighting,

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changing in all these different areas, and one of the things that we also look at is,

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for example, such as the cult favorite, Uncle Linus Hoodie,

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which is getting a little bit of a refreshment, doing it in a different kind of construction

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for future releases, hopefully, is we look at something like a ATC 8-2016,

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which you can see is color fastest to cropping, or you can look at it as in color transfer

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from a lighter colored fabric. So when looking at the actual tests,

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you can see that with these white strips, which is also called cropping cloth,

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is evaluated up against what's called a crock meter.

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When you are doing that, essentially, you are rubbing, doing a rubbing motion against the fabric

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in order to see if there's any color transfer, either in dry conditions,

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so that would just be a standard condition, as well as in wet conditions

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that it's wetted with still water. If any color transfer has occurred,

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you would evaluate it on a grayscale method.

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So essentially, it is like a piece of cardstock that has a variety of different grays

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that have a different opacity, and it is assigned a number.

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That test technician would then go to something like a light box with a standard lighting condition,

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and then evaluate the crocking cloth

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that had any color transfer that occurred to the standard grays that are listed out

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in a one-to-five scale. So five would be the best, therefore, you would see practically nothing

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on the crocking cloth, or it would be a one where you would see a significant change.

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Then once we get that test, we are able to evaluate whether or not

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it meets the requirement, and we will continue, or we will ask our supplier and say,

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hey, we definitely need to make this better, because we don't want any color transfer.

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Last thing you want is to sit on a white couch, and for you to come up,

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and there to be a color transfer that occurred. So the next one that I will be talking about

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is also AATCC 61 version 2013.

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So essentially what this is, is color fastest washing.

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When you look at it, how it's done is you take the fabric,

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and you sew it with a multi-fiber strip. So this uses acetate, a cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic,

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and the last one is like a worsted wool. So that would essentially encompass, for example,

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any other trims or anything that is on a garment, or when you bundle everything up to throw in the wash,

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obviously they're all gonna have different fiber contents. The cool thing about this machine

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is essentially you would add in a metal cup with the test specimen with the multi-fiber strip,

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as well as 50 steel balls, in order to simulate a tumbling cycle,

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and you would add the washing detergent, and therefore it would spin a lot of time,

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and then you would dry the fabric specimen with the multi-fiber strip,

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and then you would evaluate that multi-fiber strip to see if there was any color change that occurred.

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Within this, again, you would be using the same grayscale

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in order to evaluate, but instead of using it with just a standard white cloth,

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like the crocking cloth, you would use it for the multi-fiber strip of all the different fiber contents.

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So each fiber would be given a scale within that.

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And again, using that grayscale with the different opacities,

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you would then evaluate the different fiber strips. Another way that we look into fabrics

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is by, for example, looking at standard tests

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and seeing how they would relate to real-world scenarios.

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For example, when looking at the backpack, we are looking at a variety of different construction types

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when considering the double layer that we will add for future backpack iterations.

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So we looked at a variety of different sample constructions, for example, such as when looking at bonding

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with a different adhesive, as well as some stitched ones that are stitched with self

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or stitched with other different types of fabrics

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to see what would behave the best. Now, when looking at that in comparison

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to different testing standards, one of the tests that we used

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was ASTM D49-66-12 version 2016,

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which is essentially a abrasion resistance test where you would use 12 kilopascals of pressure

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and the endpoint would be 10,000 rubs. So when looking at that,

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when you're looking at the actual test machine, has the weights that are applied

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and a standard cloth on the bottom and your tested specimen on top,

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which is then rubbed in a Lissajul's pattern in order to get the overall rubbing on the test specimen,

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which you would then evaluate, again, on a graded scale.

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And I always like to bring in the test specimens as well

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to see how much has been abraded through. So sometimes tests happen randomly right at our office,

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especially when I get in a lot of new development fabrics. I like to get my hands right in there

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to make sure that it's an offering that we want to develop and bring to market.

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So a lot of times I will do a water repellency test,

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which is essentially just using a good old bottle of H2O

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and spraying it on the fabric to see whether or not it starts to beat off

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or whether it starts to absorb in the actual fabric. So for example, this is a fabric

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that we are looking at developing that may be for future launches.

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So this is a nylon base with a DWR,

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which is a durable water repellency coating on the face.

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The membrane is a E-PTFE,

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which is an expanded polytetrafluoroethylene membrane

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that is used for a variety of properties, such as water repellency and thermal resistance,

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and then also a nylon meshback. So something like that.

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It's something that we would do in office in comparison to a standard test

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when I would send it off for third-party testing. We would do AATCC-22,

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which is a water repellency test where the fabric is late at an angle,

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and then you would spray a certain amount of water, and based off of whether or not it starts to beat off

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the fabric or start to absorb, again, it'd be rated on a scale.

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And then obviously, the more it beats off, the better it performs, the less

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you probably need to reevaluate your coating. Or when measuring how a fabric resists water,

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you could look at something like a hydrostatic test where we would use something like AATCC-127,

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which is essentially where you would take a piece of fabric and fit it over a water column,

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and you would measure based off of the water pressure how much it takes in order for it to actually leak

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and rupture the fabric. Another way that we do in-house office tests

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is through laundry testing. So a lot of times when we get proto samples

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or any quality samples in general, we like to do a good old-fashioned laundry test.

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So here is an example of another thing that hopefully you will find soon on lttsor.com.

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And with that, we do a very standard washing test,

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the same as that would react in any home, and then afterwards we take those key points

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in order to measure to see things like shrinkage and how it behaves, whether or not it starts to spill,

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whether there's any color fastest changes, and we would obviously evaluate that

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and look into it further to make sure that it wouldn't happen for anything that gets put into production.

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So here, next to the engineering area, we actually have our handy-dandy washer and dryer.

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So usually I'm running up and down those steps in order to get my steps in and work these bad boys,

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whether we do something like three washes and three dries

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or whatever the team is looking for. Since I have one here, I'll show you how it works,

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which you should obviously already know how to wash and dry, but you know what, you never know.

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And these are standard mother's gain laundry detergent that has a synthetic smell that leaves everyone wondering,

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why the hell are you doing this? It's usually when we're running it for long periods of time, over and over again,

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it just absolutely, it has everything smelling

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like fresh laundry. So another thing that's super interesting with laundry,

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get a load of this, CGSB, which is the Canadian General Standards Board,

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has actually put out a disclaimer for their home laundering conditions,

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saying that they can't necessarily keep totally up to date

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with the washer and dryer industry, because essentially what they're doing is they care more

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about the effectiveness of washing and drying and not necessarily keeping your clothes in mint condition

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and keeping them for long periods of time. Therefore, they always recommend, and so do I,

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to follow the care instructions, because all of this high heat and high with washing

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as well as drying and that really fast tumbling process

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is essentially just deteriorating your clothes. So that's one key laundry tip

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is to always follow the care instructions. Lastly, another thing that we do in house a lot

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is getting the weight of a garment. So this, for example, is a GSM cutter,

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and GSM stands for grams per square meter, which can be used to calculate density.

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We put this little rubber plate in behind, we put it on top,

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and when you can see, it actually has a little blade in there

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in order to cut it, and this will create a perfect circular diameter

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of 113 millimeters. So hold it down, punch through it, peel it away,

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and there you go. You would take this and basically weigh it,

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and that would give you an accurate GSM, at least preliminary.

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Of course, we do a lot of third-party testing as well

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to confirm because you never know, because this is not necessarily, of course,

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standardized conditions. Therefore, it's always good to do that preliminary first,

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and then always check again beforehand. That is it for testing. We are always looking towards innovating and adapting

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and having new standards going forward in order to match any real-world scenarios,

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and create the best, most long-lasting products, and hopefully, you learned a little bit more

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about fabric testing, and maybe a laundry tip on there too.