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When one of my gaming systems spectacularly failed dumping water down the entire rest of the rack,

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the most expensive piece of equipment I lost was this battery backup.

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Now the obvious thing to do when a piece of uh high voltage electrical equipment gets doused

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in water would be to buy a new one, but I have a better plan. You see battery backups are expensive

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and one of the most important parts, the lead acid batteries

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seem to be working just fine. No, that isn't how I checked them. To eBay I went and while I could

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have bought a lightly used unit sans battery, it was this shipping damaged one that caught my eye.

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Hey Tyman, have a look at what we're going to be working on today. Oh boy. Specifically it is

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thousands of dollars worth of shipping damage. I got this unit for just 500 bucks meaning that it

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could very well be worth the time consuming, not to mention dangerous process of transplanting the

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hopefully working internals from the shipping damaged unit into the uh well probably still good

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steel chassis of the original one. So we can hope. That's why I brought Tynan. He's going to help make

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sure that I don't die today. From my point of view there's two options. We can look at the original

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unit and try and diagnose what exactly in it may or may not be dead or we can look at the new unit

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which I have about 12 days to inform the seller if it doesn't work and we can determine if we think

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there's even a chance that transplanting those parts in here is going to make this fully functional.

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Let's open up the shipping damaged one. If only there was some way to remove these fasteners.

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Like a screwdriver from LTTstore.com. Now I have to confess to you I did something bad. I did open

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up the original one to have a look at it. I didn't touch anything which is very important because

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more than anything else we've ever done. Folks do not try this at home. This is high voltage,

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high current electrical equipment. There are capacitors in here that if you touch them you will

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die. And the batteries. That too. Oh yeah I fooled around with the batteries too. That's why I'm

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pretty sure that they're working but if you wanted to validate that for me then that would probably

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be really good. Tynan's background is what are you like mechatronics? Mechatronics engineering.

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Yeah yeah so some mechanical, some electronics. Oh grief. Yeah let us have batteries. He told me

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when he came in today that he was worried we might be doing the lithium ion when I was like

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no I know much better than to fool around with any lithium ion battery this. 196 volts. It's pretty

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clear that some of these boards did get a little bit rough housed in shipping like this one. Yeah

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that looks very destroyed. I've seen so much worse than this. The outside is really bad and you can

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tell this thing took some bangs. Yeah. But like most of it looks fine. What's safe to touch?

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Like these wires for sure. Yeah. This shroud probably maybe depending what's under it. Everything's

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probably safe but we'll double check. Boards designed like this should have bleed resistors on

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any of the big capacitors so they should discharge in a safe time but you don't want to assume that.

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How do we check? Looks like there's a whole bunch of touch points on

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a lot of the main traces that should be able to be measured. Before you get to probulating

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those should we change gears and have a look at the water damaged one to see if there's any

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clues as to what we may or may not need to salvage. For sure. This could be good because

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what's missing from the shipping damaged one is all of the boards associated with the interface

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and the display which I mean clearly didn't get at least much water on it. Does anything jump out

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at you immediately here? It's really dusty. We moved all the equipment in while the house was

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kind of still a construction zone. That's on me. I think I noticed something. The new one is Rev03

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and the original one is Rev00P. See even when you revise a product that doesn't mean that you

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revise every component of the product. They may be completely intercompatible other than they had

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to change a supplier for a part and they just revved it so that they could keep track of that.

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In terms of immediate water damage things the circuit breakers obviously got dunked on so that

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may be a problem. Tell me this. What would be your methodical way to approach something like this?

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Would you replace one part and try to fire it up or would you just go wholesale complete change out

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and then hope for the best? How much time we have. Probably first thing is figuring out if there's

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anything obvious that's not connected that's supposed to be. Everything should be connected. I

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haven't actually touched anything in here because I knew that I was out of my depth. Yeah and we're

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meant like shorts or disconnects. Oh sure other possible spots are over the fan here in fact you

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can see where the water drips were coming through here. There are no holes conveniently over this

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board which is good. These holes are obviously right there and then there were also holes here.

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What's this? That's a plug. That should not be a problem. Okay and then these holes were over the

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battery compartment which survived and is now completely dry. This happened over a month ago

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now and it seems fine. I don't think the breakers are damaged to the point where it would matter

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because either they're connected or they're not connected and they're connected. Oh balls.

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It's probably not going to be an easy fix. There's a chance that there's

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like some of the fuses for the inputs blue or maybe some of the control board or what looks

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like a control board back here fried. Oh could this be as simple as a safety feature working for

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safety and our fuse blue? Quite possibly. Hey blown fuses. We know this because we're getting

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a continuity beep on the shipping damaged unit and we are not getting a continuity beep on these

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units. This is input from the batteries to the inverter. This looks like it might be the ground

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return. Nope what is that for? What I'm gathering is you don't want to just put the new fuses in

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because then we don't have backup fuses if they blow. Depends on how dangerous you want to live

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because yeah we have one attempt at these fuses not blowing again. Right. We should probably take

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these out of the chassis. Okay I can do that. Cool I'll do that one. One of the things I am

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concerned about for this is the second board underneath which may have been water damaged

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more than we can see here and this other fuse looks like it goes straight down. Whenever you're

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looking at an electrical system like this for capacitors you want to look for anything that's

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50 volts rated or higher. I would recommend checking everything but those are the ones you

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really want to look for. 275. So we want to check the big oh I didn't even see that one big and

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then you want to see look for the two sides of the capacitor. In this case there's a whole bunch of

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vias around on these traces so you can just find traces on both sides, probe across it and you

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just want to see that it's zero or close to zero. Now I noticed you have this set to volts DC but

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this says it's rated for 275 volts AC. Yeah capacitors are rated differently for AC versus DC

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depending on the type but when you're trying to make sure something's de-energized you want to

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measure DC because AC can't exist when it's unplugged. I'm excited they never let me play with

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stuff like this. That's why I'm here. My only thing is that if I ever die on camera I expect

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the company to monetize it to get that cheddar. I know it doesn't matter because they design

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around it but it always sketches me out when you screw a metal screw with a metal washer directly

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onto a PCB. I just don't like it. Well it's probably a good thing they can cause fires sometimes

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while I was doing some research for this shoot I found a nice eaten handbook that I found

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extraordinarily entertaining. Oh. Super professional. Oh my god. Professor Watson. I love him. The

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particular page that really got me was this one. Nine ways beer and UPS's are alike. Okay.

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Here she comes. Oh perfect I can look at that now. Okay I'm not going to break anything.

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Nice solder job eaten. That's quality. I didn't realize these were pastures. Yeah it took me a

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minute to figure that out too. They go into what look like gigantic chunky ground pins. It's it's

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there's essentially bust bars between the boards so that's how they're getting lots of power in

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between the two boards without having to own wires. It's kind of funky though that they just use

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giant standoffs. I mean metal's metal. Yeah and if it's metal then it's metal but like.

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And they're brass. Look at this shmoo. Oh I mean. We thought the top was bad. Yeah look

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giant capacitor bank. Whoa. Whoa look at the size of the bleed resistors. Yeah.

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Before we tear them both completely apart what are the odds that the short in the breaker

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would have caused those fuses to blow? It would have had to have been a short between the breakers

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because one breaker is a single phase of power. Yeah. So it would have to short across two phases

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for those to blow and in theory these should break if anything downstream of them fails.

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But if that were true then why would you need fuses anyway? Because you're dealing with enough

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power that if something goes wrong your board's going to melt. Right. Your hands are small right?

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Oh yeah. Cool. That's my superpower. I will need your small hands to get that exact connector out.

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Uh all right cool. I think it's dead. It looks like it's dead. I call dead.

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Oh yes. Okay we found another dead fuse this time on the bottom board.

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Huh all the fuse is blue. The system works. Oh yeah okay. Actually getting a close-up of

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the two fuses is probably interesting because here's the not f***ed one. Oh yeah. Oh there's

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your problem. Hey we found it. We were looking at the top. Yeah that's not good. Okay. That's very

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not good. Okay well no that's great. Now I don't know why it's dead. Yeah. I actually see where some

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of the electricity was breaking through the solder mask around the edge of the trace. Oh cool. That

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would have uh electrolyzed the water. So this fuse probably tried to save everything else but

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it was completely soaked in water and never stood a chance unfortunately. Thank you for your service.

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I found some more hidden and sneaky shipping damage on one of the boards that got a little bit

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crunched. Oh. It doesn't look like it's damaged. It'll impact anything but I'll be taking a closer

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look at this board after we get it out. Okay I have bad news. I believe this is a different revision

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than the one that's in here. Yeah. So we may need this board to work. Yeah. Like your IC is

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completely different from mine. There's the crunch. Oh that might be fine. Yeah like it's

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probably fine. That might just be a ground or something right. I'm not taking everything out

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of here because we decided that we were going to keep the receptacles and also uh. This side is

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super mangled on this one. Yeah for the input so I guess we just leave all of that. Yeah. Which is

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kind of convenient because it means we're not actually rewiring that much. So is this it? Yeah

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I think we just put it back together. Okay good luck everybody. Now under normal circumstances

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I would absolutely look at something like this and I'd go oh man let's just let's do a quick test

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boot of it you know on the bench but we can't. We don't even have a way of connecting the top

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board to the bottom board without screwing the whole thing together anyway. Also from a safety

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standpoint this chassis protects us from even if we're careful accidentally touching something

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that we really don't want to touch. Yeah there were I think seven or six hundred volt caps under here.

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Looks like I'm now ready for board number the two. No way. Yeah. I've got my breakers almost in.

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Dude this is going so fast. Yeah. We're going to plug this whole thing back together. It's going

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to turn right on. We're going to be like damn we're really good at this. And it was totally worth it.

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You know we've actually got a couple of videos coming soon on the economics of you know buying

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broken stuff on ebay and fixing them. We bought a half a dozen cpus and then I think we bought a

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bunch of motherboards. Then we're going to compare to the median us wage and see if we could make a

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living just like buying things on ebay and fixing them. This one was unintentional this was more

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just I really really really really really didn't want to buy another one. I don't know exactly why

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these are directional but I do see what looks like a diode marker on them which implies it's

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designed to go in a particular direction. Oh. Generally with these when they break

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they're high enough voltage that it'll maintain an arc even if the conductor has broken so they're

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filled with glass or sand that act to damp out the arc that's created. Okay here's your orientation.

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Cool. Gotta say I kind of feel like I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop a little bit here on

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this project. Same. It's going too good. Okay this cable was almost certainly supposed to be

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routed underneath but it makes it which means that's the last screw. What's your confidence level?

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Honestly pretty high. Now I have an idea. Okay. I was thinking we power it up with just the battery

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before actually plugging it into the wall. Sure. Okay. Do you need help? No. Sure. I'm used to having

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to carry around something heavy like this you know. With your tiny hands? Yeah yeah yeah.

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Squeaky noises and electronics. Yay! BP volt out of range. UPF shutting off. Battery pack.

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Let battery pack hold the dead range. Which is probably too low. Okay. Oh it's probably shutting

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itself off because it's too low. Too low. Yeah. Which is fine. So with a wall plug it's probably fine.

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Let's get the cover on. Yeah.

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That's all I gotta do is slide her in. I was about to say that's the last thing that's broken. I

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forgot my son's gaming rig. It's like she's working but she's limping. Okay. Nothing beeped or was

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disastrous. Here goes the plug. I hear the UPS. Let's go have a look. Load not powered.

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Emergency off. It says battery pack voltage out of range but we measured the voltage at about 200

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and on the top of the unit it says nominal pack voltage is 180 volts so that should be fine.

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Yeah. Dude, timing. Oh did we do a dumb? Ah well we didn't. Oh no. But I might have.

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See that little green RPO thing? It's supposed to be jumpers. Oh yeah it is. I know the thing.

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I've meant to put that back in. Yep that's important. After painstakingly paying super

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careful attention to everything we did internally I think we just were like oh we put it back together

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let's go test it and I think we might have just missed that jumper and that might be it.

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All powered on already. Okay hold on it's saying please wait right now. It worked. Online mode boom

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we're in. Oh that's terrible. That sucked. Yeah let's go. She's on. Load protected online mode.

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Okay okay yeah yeah yeah I'm plugging the PDU in. Okay okay go for it. Oh it's alive.

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He's drawing the power. Yeah this right here this is the face of a guy who just saved thousands of

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dollars. Ah freaking awesome. Time to get everything plugged back in. Probably the worst thing that I've

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been doing lately. No no it's not even this is the fact that the 240 volt device on the other end

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which is the 115 inch TV because it's China. I just plugged it into a 120 fold outlet and I was like

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I don't know maybe it's going to be fine. My understanding is it does put additional strain

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on the power supply but shouldn't kill it immediately so I'm going to be powering my TV properly now.

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Properly. Well properly-ish. You know you can just

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re-terminate the plug onto the actual cable instead of Jerry rigging the cable to another

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cable right? Um yeah but this was convenient because I think the cable was already in the

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wall or something I don't know. Yeah you you can terminate it to the cable that was in the wall.

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Yeah I don't know there was a reason I did it that way I can't remember what it was. Okay boop boop boop boop

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and boop. One and a half thousand watts no problem baby efficiency 87 percent. I don't know if

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that's good but it's good enough for me and it's good enough to tell you. I can't tell if I'm

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blessed or cursed you know. Both. Like the water the random corrosion wouldn't have happened to

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someone who was blessed right but then someone who was cursed couldn't have possibly gotten a UPS

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of that caliber for five hundred dollars. And conveniently had someone on staff who knew how

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to rebuild it. Well yeah that too. If you guys enjoyed this video maybe go check out part one

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where the bulk of the diagnosis of the leak itself took place. Hey do you want to see the

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fitting. Yes.
