WEBVTT

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deciding what exactly to build for this video took a lot of thought on the one

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hand we didn't want to go too overboard but since the point was for some of the

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enthusiasts here to share their passion for keyboard customization we also

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didn't want to go too basic and miss out on presenting some of the more fun

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options even if they aren't the most wallet friendly on that note when you're

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making this decision for yourself the first consideration after your budget

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set a budget should be your layout what's right for you a tiny little 40%

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board with several function layers to jot down your Memoir or maybe you want a

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fulls sized 104 keyboard for productivity and entering data and

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spreadsheets maybe you'll land in between there are Endless Options with

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new layouts coming out all the time but the most common are your 60 and 65% 75%

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tkl or 10 keyless and 1800 there are also alternate layouts

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like ortholinear and Alice and split for the ergonomic minded folks but I'm

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boring so I've gone with the new tofu 65 2.0 from kbd fans the original tofu 60

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and 65 are pretty common recommendations for an entrylevel but very Enthusiast

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tier keyboard unfortunately in the few years since their release the classic

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tray mounts that they used have fallen out of favor thankfully the new keyboard

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kit that they sent over includes three mounting options top mount silicone

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gasket or silicone Bowl which we are

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going to be trying for the first time more on that later for now all you need

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to know is that you can purchase your case PCB plate stabilizer switches and

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anything else that you would like separately and build it fully custom but

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you don't have to anymore many of them come in kits like this that include just

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about everything that you need except for you know switches and key caps I

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mean uh those are kind of critical first

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a nice thing about the tofu 65 is the fact that it is hot swap which makes

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trying out new switches or replacing defective ones much easier compared to

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if everything is soldered in place now soldering does have a few advantages

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like some added stability more layout options and no risk of your switches

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popping out when you go to change your key caps but it's so convenient to be

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able to just pop switches onto your board like this anytime you want that

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this is absolutely what we' recommend for novice to intermediate Builders

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especially those aren't 100% sure that they want to be married to the first

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switches that they choose for those of you looking for a challenge by the way

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you can convert a solder only PCB into a

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hot swappable one but that's beyond the scope of today's video today's video

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which needs a message from our sponsor build Redux build Redux builds fully

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customizable gaming PCs for any budget see how your favorite games perform with

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their online pc Builder so you dominate in war zone and not Candy Crush unless

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you you want that head to build ru.com Linus and start your new rig today our

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kit today is a bit more expensive than the 60% version but for our $190 we're

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getting a lot we've got an aluminum case with a brass weight a plate in the

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material of your choice both silicone gasket mounting options as well as

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smaller screws for top mount laser cut pour on bottom and plate foam and Eva

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switch pad a set of feet and Cherry screwing stabilizers moreon all of these

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as we go and don't worry if this guy and

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a set of switches and key caps are out of your budget don't sweat it you can

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follow along with any of the still very good options that we've got linked down

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below for as low as 40 bucks you'll probably be looking at a plastic chassis

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maybe fewer plate options and no frills like bottom weights or added foam but

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kits like these are a great way to both learn the basics and to get typing and

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feel free to spend those savings by the way on our new circuit deskpad which is

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a great fit for whatever keyboard you end up building let's start with our PCB

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these can come anywhere from completely bare in which case you'll need to solder

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on Parts like LEDs resistors or controllers yourself to fully populated

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with hot swappable sockets so there is zero soldering involved sometimes

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they're pretty rigid but it's becoming more and more common to see Flex Cuts

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not only around the frro or other modifiers but also to break up the

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alphas like this this contributes to to a less harsh bottoming out feeling but

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without the mushiness associated with membranes and it might seem like a small

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and insignificant detail partly because it is but this practically infinite

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customizability is a huge part of what draws people into this hobby whether

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it's the big factors like the actuation forces of your switches or fine ones

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like the viscosity of your Lube or PCB Flex all of it is going to make a

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difference in both sound and feel as you type or game so I guess what I'm trying

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to say is speed holes are in fashion now but if you don't like them that is

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totally 100% okay moving on failures are

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rare but you should still always do a quick test of each socket on your PCB

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before you build the fastest way to do this is to lay your PCB on something

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non-conductive I'd recommend the box that came in plug it into your computer

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open a keyboard testing site like via we're going to have a couple of those

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linked down below then using a pair of conductive tweezers or a paperclip

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Bridge each socket one by one and check to ensure that the key press registers

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now it's time to actually build and step one is adding our stabilizers now most

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of the keys on a board are a size of one U they won't need them but bigger Keys

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like shift enter and tab will typically range anywhere from 1 and 1/2 to 2 and

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1/2 u with the space bar generally being the biggest at around 6.25 U A good rule

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thumb is that anything over to you needs a stabilizer to stay well stable to see

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what what this looks like let's flip our space bar upside down here you can see

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three mounting points one in the middle for the switch and then one on either

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side for the stabilizers without these two side mounts pressing your space bar

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anywhere other than right dead center is going to result in a sort of seesaw

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lever action this will fix it but wait

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if we screwed them into our PCB without Lube Well we'd be able to hear the wire

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scratching and rattling around inside the stabs well I mean it wouldn't affect

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the functionality right no no okay right

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but but but but it would be awful right

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yes and we can fix that in about 20 minutes if we care and we do there are a

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few ways to do this but we are going to use some dialectric grease for the bars

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and krytox 25g lube for the housing then

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for bonus points we're going to be using Flush Cutters to clip off these little

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raised sections here that can poke into the PCB awkwardly when they're pressed

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down if your stabs don't have those little feet by the way don't start

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randomly cutting things off many of the newer ones are starting to come pre-

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clipped so you could end up screwing something up in either case the next

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step is to lube our housing like so applying a light layer to the inside

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once that's done you just pop the insert back in making sure to orient the side

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with the hole here with the side that's open grease up the end of the

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bar that's greased all right then insert the bar and click it into place

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stable now before we move on I just want to quickly mention that there are more

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than just Cherry screw stabilizers like we have today there are different

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mounting Styles snap in screw in or plate mounted or you might even open up

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your keyboard and find a different style of stabilizer all together co-star

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stabilizers look like this and while they can be lubed up there's not much

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else you can do with them so thankfully these are less common these days and

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Optical stabilizers like you'd find in an optical keyboard well those can't be

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modified at all at least at this time so

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Cherry screws it is for us now at this point if you still hear a little bit of

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rattle I guess I can kind of force it but this is certainly acceptable to me

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anyway there are two more steps you can take one of them is a serious pain in

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the butt it's called a holy mod and involves adding tiny strips of bandage

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or other padding material to the inside surfaces of the insert some full kit

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cases actually come with pre-cut strips like these ones but whatever you use the

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idea is the same it's to stop the wire from making contact with the plastic

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hamaji Neo actually has a great video on how to do this so feel free to go check

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that out we're going to have it linked in the video description I am not that fussy

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obviously so we're going to do the easier mod now the old way of doing this

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one also involves cutting up bits of bandages but since it's more Common

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Premium kits often come with little padded stickers either with or without

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holes in the center since some folks don't like the actual insert hitting the

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pad now our tofu kit didn't come with these but luckily we had some lying

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around from another kit now for the record not Everyone likes adding these

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and some finds that it makes certain stabilizers feel a tad mushy especially

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before they're broken in but I was told

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I had to do it so all you got to do then

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is line up the smaller side with the smaller stabilizer screw hole and The

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Wider side where the stabs hook into the PCB and stick it on some people actually

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like to add a bit of lube to these before installing their stabilizers over

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top of them but maybe you could try it without first and then see how you feel

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about it once those are on we'll install the stabilizers by hooking them onto the

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bigger opening then pushing both sides into place then you'll need the spacers

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or washers that come with your stab kit we're just going to use these washers

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that came with a different kit as long as you have a magnetic screwdriver LTD

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store.com just take the washer put it on the screw

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and screw it in from the back

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side it's it's nice good job good job L one last trick

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by the way if it's still not quiet enough for you you can take a syringe

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and squeeze a little bit more Lube into the stabilizers after you've installed

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them on the board wait why didn't we just do that in the first place that sounds way

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easier it

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doesn't we could just stick some lube at the edges here it would work its way in

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and then we could just syringe some lube into there with a needle and what like

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you just have to like type on it for a bit and then be fine but that's the

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thing is you got to type on it for a while yeah that's fine oh my God that

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would take like a tenth the amount of time any who now it's time to assemble

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our p PB and get the rest of our keyboard ready for the case remember

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those Foams that I mentioned early ah yes here they are adding any layer or

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combination of layers of these is going to dampen or otherwise affect the sound

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now some of the more popular materials include polyurethane poron that's this

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one right here neoprene sorbothane and

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Eva if your kit didn't come with foam but you want some anyway there are a few

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websites out there that will do custom laser cut foam for specific cases in key

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caps but realistically White Packing foam like this can be found for cheap or

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free and does a pretty okay job the

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question though is whether this should be done at all and that's not even just

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me being all all of this is unnecessary

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anyway many purists will argue that an expensive keyboard doesn't need foam and

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should sound fantastic without it but

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for more budget boards it can help a lot again it's all up to your personal

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preference but since it's part part of our kit we're going to use all three

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layers we're going to start with the top foam and Eva switch pad then once

00:12:05.839 --> 00:12:10.399
they're aligned we're going to put the plate on top to sandwich the whole thing

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together before we start popping in our switches but before we do that we have

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to talk about our plate that's a good thing we didn't forget that the plate

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stabilizes your key switches and adds some rigidity to the board but its main

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role is to keep the stress off of the PCB when you're typing now like

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everything else there are a ton of options for materials Each of which

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affects the feel and especially the sound of the typing experience kbd fans

00:12:35.839 --> 00:12:40.880
sent us polycarbonate aluminum and fr4

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fiberglass to choose from they've also got a carbon fiber option but they

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didn't send that over other popular choices for other boards include palm

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and Brass we're going to go with the poly carb today for a lower pitch sound

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and a little bit more flex but if you're looking for something stiffer and higher

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pitched then aluminum would be a really good way to go for our switches we've

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gone with Gaton blizzards these are five

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pin 60 G tactile switches with pre-applied Lube which is going to save

00:13:06.240 --> 00:13:12.639
us a couple of hours some enthusiasts would still apply their own Lube but

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Factory pre- lubing has apparently gotten a lot better over the last couple

00:13:14.480 --> 00:13:20.760
of years and I think it's fair to say that this is going to get us at least

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90% of the way there that's not always true though we have both unlubed and

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preed nixes from Cherry and we couldn't really feel a whole lot of difference

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but then if we compare the unlubed one to a switch we lubed ourselves it's no

00:13:31.760 --> 00:13:37.959
contest apparently okay I've got to feel this I assume this is the one that you

00:13:35.720 --> 00:13:43.320
lubed the quieter one okay all right well it is better so fine if you have to

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lube your own switches here's how you do it hop open your switch with a Handy

00:13:45.240 --> 00:13:51.000
Switch opener these can also be Pride open with fingernails or other tools but

00:13:48.720 --> 00:13:55.519
a switch opener makes it about 100 times easier then disassemble everything but

00:13:53.519 --> 00:14:00.040
the pins you should be left with a top housing bottom housing stem and a spring

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now don't just start start throwing Lube at it because this process can vary a

00:14:01.959 --> 00:14:07.920
little bit depending on whether you're lubing linear switches tactiles or

00:14:05.199 --> 00:14:12.160
clickies linear they're kind of hard to screw up since there's no bump there's

00:14:09.800 --> 00:14:16.160
no feel for you to really worry about but with tactiles and clickies you've

00:14:14.079 --> 00:14:20.959
got to be careful not to over Lube or you can end up removing a lot of the

00:14:17.759 --> 00:14:23.519
feel and sound especially for clickies

00:14:20.959 --> 00:14:28.720
so for linear take a small brush take your stem and brush a thin layer of

00:14:25.440 --> 00:14:31.000
krytox 205g along just about anywhere

00:14:28.720 --> 00:14:36.360
except except the stem now to be clear 205g is not the Beall and end all of

00:14:33.959 --> 00:14:40.519
switch Lube it's just pretty common and we happen to have some on hand once

00:14:38.519 --> 00:14:44.600
that's done take the bottom housing and apply another thin layer on the stem

00:14:42.240 --> 00:14:48.920
rails particularly with linear you can coat a bit more of the bottom housing in

00:14:46.320 --> 00:14:52.519
the leaves but it's not always necessary as for your Springs we're going to go

00:14:50.600 --> 00:14:56.800
with the lazy container Lube method where you take all your Springs Chuck

00:14:54.399 --> 00:15:00.639
them in a container with some krytox 105 and then shake them up until you've got

00:14:58.199 --> 00:15:05.320
a nice thin coating on them you can absolutely Lube your Springs

00:15:02.320 --> 00:15:07.320
individually for best results but wow

00:15:05.320 --> 00:15:11.920
does it ever take forever so we are not going to be doing that today once each

00:15:09.880 --> 00:15:16.560
component is lubed up just put it back together and you're done or at least

00:15:14.480 --> 00:15:21.000
you're probably done at this point something we haven't mentioned yet is

00:15:18.360 --> 00:15:26.279
switch film which is meant to fix flimsy wobbly housings by adding a small layer

00:15:23.399 --> 00:15:30.680
of material to fill any gaps most modern switches don't need them but if yours do

00:15:29.240 --> 00:15:35.240
you just add the film to the lower housing before pushing the switch back

00:15:32.480 --> 00:15:40.399
together great good job now repeat the process between 70 and 110 more times

00:15:38.319 --> 00:15:46.160
and you should be good to go can't say the same for your fingers but yeah now

00:15:43.680 --> 00:15:50.720
since our PCB is hot swappable you can do this last if you'd prefer but as long

00:15:49.000 --> 00:15:53.639
as you've got a soft surface to work on and you don't press too hard you'll be

00:15:52.480 --> 00:15:57.759
all right we're going to put our switches on now just take your switch

00:15:55.800 --> 00:16:02.639
line up the pins with the holes uh some sockets might require you to R rotate 90

00:15:59.519 --> 00:16:04.759
or 180° so make sure you watch for that

00:16:02.639 --> 00:16:08.040
then press it down one pro tip by the way is that if you do all the corners

00:16:06.120 --> 00:16:11.399
first it helps keep everything in place while you install the rest of the

00:16:09.199 --> 00:16:14.480
switches during this process it's possible that you will accidentally

00:16:12.720 --> 00:16:19.800
smush one of the contact pins on your switch if that happens don't worry about

00:16:17.360 --> 00:16:23.639
it too much first of all you can usually use some pliers to straighten them out

00:16:21.120 --> 00:16:27.880
and try again and second switches generally come in packs of 10 so you'll

00:16:26.000 --> 00:16:31.560
probably have a few extras anyway a quick visual inspection to make sure the

00:16:29.399 --> 00:16:35.880
pins are poking through later and I think we're almost done we're almost

00:16:32.920 --> 00:16:42.240
done right yeah I I swear we're almost done anyway we know we want to gasket

00:16:39.360 --> 00:16:46.800
Mount today but the question is how gasket mounting involves sandwiching the

00:16:44.480 --> 00:16:50.680
plate in between the top and bottom case with pieces of rubber or foam now for

00:16:48.920 --> 00:16:57.519
the traditional gasket Mount we could attach these little sockies on our PCB

00:16:54.720 --> 00:17:02.240
but these bowls are apparently the new hotness or something so we're going to

00:16:59.639 --> 00:17:07.880
try those out to be clear gasket mounts are not the only way to mount the PCB

00:17:04.880 --> 00:17:11.079
there's your tray Mount top mount bottom

00:17:07.880 --> 00:17:14.640
mount sandwich Mount integrated plate

00:17:11.079 --> 00:17:16.760
Mount gasket Mount Leaf Spring Mount

00:17:14.640 --> 00:17:21.079
that's about it now we're going to put our bottom half to the side for this

00:17:19.160 --> 00:17:25.959
part tweezers are your best friend you're going to take these little strips

00:17:22.919 --> 00:17:28.319
of foam there and insert them into these

00:17:25.959 --> 00:17:30.960
little recesses in the underside of the top plate

00:17:29.400 --> 00:17:36.559
with these in place we're going to go back to our bottom case and add the

00:17:33.440 --> 00:17:38.320
little bowls uh tweezers also appear to

00:17:36.559 --> 00:17:41.320
be my friend here we went with the middle stiffness to start cuz we've

00:17:39.799 --> 00:17:45.960
never really tried this Mount before but our kit came with three different

00:17:42.799 --> 00:17:47.799
stiffnesses 50 60 and 70 before we

00:17:45.960 --> 00:17:52.640
assemble we need to add our bottom foam layer an alternative to this is actually

00:17:50.160 --> 00:17:57.120
painters tape though if you just lay strips of it across the bottom of the

00:17:54.160 --> 00:18:01.200
PCB with cutouts for your reset switch uh resistors any onard board

00:17:59.080 --> 00:18:04.280
microcontrollers or anything like that then you can just add as many layers as

00:18:02.640 --> 00:18:08.520
you like as long as they still fit in the case to achieve the desired result

00:18:06.640 --> 00:18:12.880
usually anywhere from 2 to four is enough another cheap and cheerful mod

00:18:10.840 --> 00:18:18.159
that seems to work like magic is the force break mod this is kind of like

00:18:15.480 --> 00:18:22.120
creating a gasket for our case which should help reduce Hollow and ping

00:18:20.240 --> 00:18:26.039
particularly if you don't already have any other kind of foam layers installed

00:18:24.200 --> 00:18:30.919
to achieve this one you take some more painters tape or electrical tape and add

00:18:28.480 --> 00:18:35.760
tin strips on either side of the screw holes helping to reduce the metal

00:18:32.520 --> 00:18:38.039
on-metal sounds of your closed case now

00:18:35.760 --> 00:18:43.159
that that's done let's take our sandwich screw in the daughter board then lower

00:18:40.159 --> 00:18:46.919
it slowly onto the bowls on the bottom

00:18:43.159 --> 00:18:50.640
case good gravy lower it onto the

00:18:46.919 --> 00:18:55.520
bowls I mean that seems like it's on the

00:18:50.640 --> 00:18:55.520
bowls now we just put this

00:18:55.600 --> 00:19:03.320
on and then ever so ever so

00:19:00.280 --> 00:19:06.559
carefully who That's Heavy we flip the

00:19:03.320 --> 00:19:09.600
whole thing over and screw it back

00:19:06.559 --> 00:19:13.080
together now we put these on these are

00:19:09.600 --> 00:19:18.120
really nice this my friends is how you

00:19:13.080 --> 00:19:20.280
do a rubber foot okay no adhesive just a

00:19:18.120 --> 00:19:24.960
nice little Groove and it sticks in the screw holes so getting at the screws

00:19:22.559 --> 00:19:28.360
later is super easy but it still looks perfectly clean

00:19:30.080 --> 00:19:37.760
woo that's something we're

00:19:33.480 --> 00:19:39.799
done well sort of um I guess key caps

00:19:37.760 --> 00:19:43.840
would make things a little bit more pleasant we've got a few different

00:19:41.799 --> 00:19:48.400
options to show off here key caps are the most outwardly obvious way to show

00:19:45.720 --> 00:19:52.840
off your style so obviously personal preference plays a major role here but

00:19:51.080 --> 00:19:58.159
it's generally accepted that your average PBT key cap is better than your

00:19:55.320 --> 00:20:03.120
average ABS key cap since PBT is a more durable plastic that tends to wear out

00:20:00.039 --> 00:20:04.840
both more slowly and more pleasingly but

00:20:03.120 --> 00:20:09.400
while the average ABS key cap will quickly turn into a shiny mess that

00:20:06.919 --> 00:20:15.080
doesn't mean that all abs keycaps are bad gmk for instance uses higher quality

00:20:12.400 --> 00:20:19.679
abs for their keyc cap sets though they are known for being quite pricey on that

00:20:17.840 --> 00:20:25.400
note there are plenty of other materials that you could consider when you're

00:20:21.000 --> 00:20:27.480
choosing keycaps um rubber wood ceramic

00:20:25.400 --> 00:20:31.600
metal I mean people are constantly experimenting with both materials and

00:20:29.679 --> 00:20:37.799
profiles you're probably used to the Cherry profile but what about sa XDA Kat

00:20:35.679 --> 00:20:42.200
the keycaps profile is all about the shape do you want something that's more

00:20:39.720 --> 00:20:46.120
flat and uniform or something that's tall and sculpted differently per Row

00:20:44.840 --> 00:20:50.120
the only way to know what's right for you realistically is to just try them so

00:20:48.480 --> 00:20:53.679
we'd highly recommend experimenting with some cheap keycap sets from your

00:20:51.600 --> 00:20:58.640
favorite online retailer before you go with something fancy I've settled on

00:20:56.360 --> 00:21:03.480
these clear purple key caps these are are clear 2048 for our build today but

00:21:02.000 --> 00:21:09.280
there's a certain element of luck involved in picking a keycap set not

00:21:06.120 --> 00:21:12.640
every set is available in every layout

00:21:09.280 --> 00:21:15.120
is your kit NY is it ISO do you need a

00:21:12.640 --> 00:21:19.440
stepped key cap is your space bar long at 7uu or is it on the shorter side for

00:21:17.200 --> 00:21:23.600
a split or a condensed layout sometimes you can make an almost fit set work with

00:21:21.640 --> 00:21:27.640
your board but you might end up with some empty space that exposes the plate

00:21:25.360 --> 00:21:32.000
in PCB which isn't the greatest looking thing there are workarounds it's pretty

00:21:30.000 --> 00:21:35.480
popular to have accent keys in different colors so you could just take that one

00:21:34.039 --> 00:21:40.279
that doesn't fit and replace it with something else and put on some other

00:21:37.400 --> 00:21:44.799
accent keys or you could fill some of the odd sizes that you didn't account

00:21:41.840 --> 00:21:48.840
for with one of the many novelty custom key caps that come in various shapes

00:21:46.279 --> 00:21:54.640
colors and sizes the only drawback with these aside from the uh cost is that you

00:21:51.960 --> 00:21:58.640
might wait months or even a year to get them in some cases before we actually

00:21:56.919 --> 00:22:03.320
try it something we already touched on in the last video is adding O-rings to

00:22:00.559 --> 00:22:08.520
your key caps you could do every key or just your stabilizer Keys like the space

00:22:05.039 --> 00:22:09.960
bar and enter but this again is personal

00:22:08.520 --> 00:22:13.600
preference so you would just take your o-ring pop it over where the stem

00:22:11.760 --> 00:22:17.039
inserts on the underside of the key cap and you're good to go depending on the

00:22:15.640 --> 00:22:21.320
hardness and the thickness of your o-ring this could add undesirable mush

00:22:19.400 --> 00:22:25.559
though so it's not for everyone it's just a fast and inexpensive mod that can

00:22:24.080 --> 00:22:30.279
improve your sound when you're bottoming out your keys I swear to you this looks

00:22:28.320 --> 00:22:35.279
a a lot better in person than it does on camera that helps a little but

00:22:33.320 --> 00:22:39.400
um yeah really doesn't capture the right purple

00:22:38.000 --> 00:22:45.679
tone well let's go ahead and plug it in now

00:22:42.120 --> 00:22:45.679
we just fire up monkey type

00:22:49.159 --> 00:22:52.159
and

00:22:54.799 --> 00:23:01.400
oops h

00:22:58.600 --> 00:23:05.799
well I can't type on it but it sounds really good why don't I try that

00:23:12.480 --> 00:23:19.679
again all right sounds pretty good not

00:23:16.320 --> 00:23:22.200
bad it does sound good now you can go a

00:23:19.679 --> 00:23:25.919
step further and use via to map whatever function layers or key Bindings that you

00:23:24.120 --> 00:23:30.480
would like at least you can if your keyboard has qmk firmware via won't work

00:23:28.600 --> 00:23:34.799
with everything but the nice thing about 65% is that you've got basically

00:23:32.960 --> 00:23:39.679
everything ready to go with the use of a function key for the missing frow and

00:23:37.760 --> 00:23:43.159
that's it if there's anything you think we missed or didn't have time for leave

00:23:41.679 --> 00:23:49.919
a comment down below where we'll have links for all the items that we use

00:23:44.760 --> 00:23:52.480
today but we're done and all right all

00:23:49.919 --> 00:23:58.039
right it's pretty cool I mean well like cool and like a you know you get it uh

00:23:56.039 --> 00:24:01.480
the point is if you're not happy with yours you can change it an unlimited

00:23:59.799 --> 00:24:05.640
number of times until you get the sound and feel that you like best because at

00:24:03.000 --> 00:24:10.799
the end of the day it's your keyboard and at the end of the video it's my

00:24:07.640 --> 00:24:12.600
segue to today's sponsor pulseway don't

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00:24:50.520 --> 00:24:56.440
not sure if I'm allowed to say that is it trademarked if you enjoyed this video

00:24:54.640 --> 00:25:01.320
check out our last mechanical keyboard build we don't show off all the modern

00:24:58.559 --> 00:25:05.799
Creature Comforts and the latest mods but it was still an interesting project

00:25:03.279 --> 00:25:08.799
it was a different time it was very peac meal
