so you've outfitted your rig with the highest end components your bank account
can handle and you're pushing out more frames than an art gallery but it looks
like your system could use a little bit more pop and that's when it hits you a
custom water cooling Loop is exactly what you're missing but what do you
actually need well first up is tubing
it's not going to work very well without that pretty much any kind of tubing will
work 3/8 in and 1/2 in inner diameter
tubing are the most common but don't go to the local Home Depot and buy the
cheap clear vinyl stuff that's on the Shelf it will Kink when you make tight
bends in between components and can stiffen and change color over time which
looks groy and can actually make leaks more likely to develop at the fittings
the metal that is to say if you're smart adapters between the usually G1 qu
threads on your components and your tubing not to mention that PC water
cooling tubing has more Pizzazz and some
even has antimicrobial properties though
if you really want your build to pop Hardline tubing is also available in
acrylic and the preferred petg flavors
for a super clean and Slick look just be
prepared to spend more money on like tools and stuff and to deal with having
to bend and measure your runs super
accurately oh and you won't be using standard barbs either because line
tubing requires its own special type of compression fittings so that's a lot of
guidance about tubing but what about all the other stuff the pump moves liquid
through the system and the spec that many newcomers get hung up on is the
flow rate the conventional wisdom suggests you'll want a flow rate of at
least one gallon per minute to decrease turbulence in the water but as you add
components to the loop it's actually the head pressure rating that makes the
bigger difference bottom line from my
experience anything but a lang D5 or some variant thereof is a compromise on
to blocks these sit on hot components
transferring heat to the cooling fluid you'll find an incredible variety out
there some are made of aluminum because it's cheap and easy to work with avoid
those because mixing incompatible Metals in a loop can cause nasty corrosion over
time even with anti-corrosion additives
and most quality components are made of copper thanks to its better conductive
properties which doesn't necessarily mean though that you're stuck with that
copper color nickel silver and gold
plating have all been done with mostly good results and they look great through
a see-through plexy toop so you can gawk at your coolant flowing through the
block now though you can get water blocks for hard drives ssds RAM and your
motherboard someone actually made a power supply block at one point if I
recall correctly these are really only for show or for an extremely silent
build where there will be next to no airf flow to cool those components
otherwise the main heavy lifters are the CPU and the GPU blocks for the CPU
honestly it's pretty straight forward these days a socket compatible option
from any of these companies will pretty much do the trick but video cards are a
little tougher don't just buy a GTX 1080
block expecting it to work on every 1080
that's out there the vast majority of video card blocks these days cover the
GPU the surrounding RAM and even the vrm
whose layout can differ dramatically from one manufacturer to the next
reference or Founders edition cards are
typically the easiest to find blocks for but there are some exceptions the
reservoir is the fill point of the system and it also holds extra fluid to
combat natural evaporation over time time Reservoir options are sometimes an
aesthetic Choice 5 and 1/4 in Bay reservoirs used to be in Vogue but tube
reses are very popular these days and other times a purely practical decision
Swift xmc res micro doesn't look like anything special but was about the only
thing that would fit in some of the systems that I've built just make sure
you put it immediately before the pump in the loop and don't try to use a tiny
Reservoir with a super strong pump that stirs up air and puts it back into the
loop making it noisy if you don't feel like playing Labyrinth with your
computer to get air bubbles out of your blocks finally the radiator or radiators
these along with some attached fans transfer the heat from the fluid to the
surrounding air the larger the better though you'll want to make sure that you
mount static pressure optimized fans that can move air efficiently through
the tight cooling fins and you can learn more about static pressure fan
in this video this is especially important if you're getting radiators
with high fin density so 20 or more fins
per inch more fins means greater cooling
potential but it also means more turbulence and that you'll need a fan
that can force enough air through them so more noise you can learn more about
radiators here which leads us then to
the bottom line is any of this really worth it well CPU performance isn't to
change much but gpus can drop an excess
of 20° and a custom Loop is a more
elegant way of adding multiple components to a water cooling system
than multiple closed loop coolers the most people do it more for looks or for
silence these days speaking of for looks
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