WEBVTT

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you did it you finally built or bought a brand

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new gaming PC except there's one small problem right now it's the most

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expensive paper weight you own how do you make the computer

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compute well doing it right takes more than just plugging her in and letting

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her rip like ooh what's this button do

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and what the heck am I looking at here how do I get past this well for starters

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you're going to have to get past today's sponsor thorum it's Valentine's Day do you know

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video was to be as comprehensive as possible so while we would recommend

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watching it all the way through the first time we've added convenient

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chapter markers if you ever want to come back for a topic specific refresher

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we'll begin with the physical things that you need to set up starting with

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location now obviously easy access to your ports

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is critical so depending on your case you might prefer it on the right or on

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the left but what's less obvious is that

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your PC's position can have a big impact on future maintenance requirements the

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main way that dust enters your case is by being sucked into the front or the

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bottom intake fans keeping those off the floor means that your system will

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require far less frequent cleaning this is especially true for carpeted flooring

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which not only acts as a pet hair magnet but can also starve your power supply of

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fresh air depending on its orientation if you must have your system

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on the floor though at least do yourself a favor and put it under the edge of

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your desk even with top exhaust fans a

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shocking amount of dust can settle down into your system if you have an open top

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grill if your system has an antenna it should be in line of sight with any

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Bluetooth peripherals that you intend to connect later and it should be clear of

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anything that might block the signal to your Wi-Fi access point like a dense

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concrete wall or granite countertop or

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even the PC's chassis itself I mean you know what they say distance makes the RF

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signal stronger now you're ready to plug in and the first cable is going to be

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power this ensures that your equipment is grounded and protected from

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electrostatic discharge as for the other end of the cable well good PC power

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supplies can handle a wide range of power conditions before supplying

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anything to the rest of your PC but plugging into the wall or into a dumb

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power strip can stress it if your wall power is noisy or prone to voltage

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sagging and brownouts this is especially true when other high power appliances

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are running like say an air conditioner a UPS or premium search protector can

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help clean that power up a bit before it hits your PC or display but failing that

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I'd recommend at least a basic surge protector which can help protect your

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computer against voltage spikes from things like a lightning strike for

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desktop peripherals I'd recommend plugging your keyboard and your mouse

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into the slowest USB ports that are connected directly to your motherboard's

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chipset they're not going to use the extra performance of a faster Port

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anyway and plugging them into secondary controllers or into addin cards can

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sometimes cause them to stay inactive until the system is finished booting or

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experience delays and hitches you can check the block diagram for your

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motherboard if you're unsure which ports are connected to what the same is true

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by the way if you're using a USB headset or a desktop dck and amp pretty much

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every time I've seen someone report issues with these things it's because they're connected through a hub or

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something do yourself a favor connect directly now if your audio device uses

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an old school headphone jack you can either use the front panel ones if your

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case has them or you can use the ports on the rear they'll usually be

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colorcoded green and red for the headphones and mic respectively or else

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they'll have symbols next to them some Modern motherboards will actually prompt

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you for what you've plugged in and they'll work regardless of where you plug things in but they may not work

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optimally on that subject some cases and

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laptops might not have two separate three-pole Jacks but rather have a

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single four-pole Jack in that case you're going to need to get a y cable

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like this one unless your headset includes one in the box next up is

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display most gaming PCs come with a dedicated GPU installed in a PCI Express

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slot and you should always plug your main display into that rather than the

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ports on your motherboard's IO panel those ones are routed to your onboard

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Graphics instead now with the right UEFI BIOS configuration we'll touch on that

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in a moment your system May support connecting extra monitors to both of

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them at the same time but if you run your game off of the wrong ports it will

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have a negative impact on your gaming experience as for which cable to use

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HDMI DisplayPort or USBC that boils

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down to what your monitor supports and what your graphics card supports when in

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doubt DisplayPort is usually the more

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correct choice for PC thanks to its generally higher bandwidth and broader

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support for extras like variable refresh rate gaming but you should also refer to

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your GPU and display manuals to see exactly which features are supported one

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last thing if you're using a desktop with built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth and

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you intend to use it please make sure you screw in your antennas unlike

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laptops desktops often don't have integrated antennas and while you might

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be able to see nearby networks you will almost C ly struggle to stay connected

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to them it usually doesn't matter which one screws into where if you've got

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wired Ethernet instead then you'll often have one place to plug it in and you're

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good to go but if you have to it's probably worth checking your

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motherboard's manual to find out what's what sometimes they're the exact same

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thing and completely interchangeable but other times one will use a slower but

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maybe more broadly supported controller while the other might use a multi- gig

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controller that's faster but requires additional drivers once distributed into

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Windows these multi- gig ports can be a huge boom to creatives and to storage

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enthusiasts who have network attached storage devices or actually even Gamers

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who have balling out internet plans but if they're plugged into a typical

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Network that has gigabit ports everywhere else they're going to be

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limited to gigabit speeds anyway with everything plugged in and in place now's

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a good time to tidy up your cables you can use zip ties in a pinch but hook and

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loop cable ties are a better solution for future maintenance LTT storage

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also we have something even better coming soon sign up for an instock

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notification for our cable management arches at the link below now that that's

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done it's finally time to fire it up flick the switch around back on your

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power supply give it a second and then hit the power button if nothing happens

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you can refer to our last PC guide you'll ever need for some helpful

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troubleshooting tips before you do that though make sure your surge protector is

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plugged in and turned on too it's actually a more common mistake than you

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think is it going to power on first try

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oh crap oh power bar needs to be on oh

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even for us now that fan spin is achieved it's time to game right not yet

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nearly every modern computer has what we still refer to incorrectly as a BIOS the

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more modern term is UEFI but we're old school so BIOS is the screen you go to

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when you power on your PC and it usually has the logo of the manufacturer it's

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not just an ad though there's a whole menu buried in here if you press the

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right key before your operating system starts to boot up sometimes the you need

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to press to access it is listed on the screen but it'll usually be delete F2

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F10 or F12 if you're unsure check your manual feeling that just Mash all the

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above that usually gets the job done the

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exact layout of this setup screen will vary a lot depending on the manufacturer

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and model year of your system there are DIY motherboards from a decade ago with

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full graphical interfaces while some Modern machines have almost retro

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looking interfaces with no mouse support whatever the layout the first screen

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usually has information about the hardware installed the date and time and

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sometimes the order of the storage devices the PC will check for an

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operating system to boot before continuing make sure that everything is

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showing up as expected missing RAM for example could mean you need to receip

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the module or the CPU itself even if you've been around the block a few times

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you should check the manual to familiarize yourself with the layout

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before changing anything after all new platforms bring new features and new

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features bring new headaches it's at this point that you might want or

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sometimes need to upgrade your BIOS to the latest version on your motherboard

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or PC manufacturer's website the exact

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steps for this vary greatly by manufacturer and by Era but the gist is

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this turn off the PC download the BIOS

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from the manufacturer and unzip it to a flash drive which often must be

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formatted fat 32 once that's done eject

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it plug it into your PC again on a motherboard chipset Port get

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back into the BIOS and usually you'll find an option in here with flash in its

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name nine times out of 10 this is what you want select the flash drive choose

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the file you downloaded confirm then kick back and hope that the power

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doesn't go out your system May reboot a couple of times during this process

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which is normal but if It suffers a power loss it's quite vulnerable it's

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being bricked so if you have a battery backup of some sort kicking around

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please do use it there are sometimes ways to recover without this backup but

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the exact details VAR by vendor and you do not want to find out that yours

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doesn't have one after the fact read your motherboard's manual to be sure

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once it's done it should say the BIOS was updated and settings were reset

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allowing you to enter setup to continue now there are a few options of

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particular interest inside the BIOS starting with XMP and Expo the memory

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overclocking standards that were also previously L known as docp on older AMD

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platforms the location of this setting does vary a little bit but many

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motherboards will have it on the main page because it is such a common thing

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for enthusiasts to enable if you've got RAM That's rated for highp speeds this

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is a one touch way to hopefully reach

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those speeds enabling it will correctly set all of the relevant settings in your

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Motherboard BIOS including voltages and something called the memory ratio you

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don't need to fully understand what that means but for best performance 1: one is

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ideal on Intel and on AMD you often want to see the F clock match half of the

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memory speed don't worry too much if it doesn't line up though fast RAM is

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usually better than the alternative now this is technically overclocking though

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so it's worth noting that this might not work in every configuration if you have

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very fast memory or if you have more than two modules for example your CPU

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may have trouble running at the rated speeds if you're worried about stability

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you can go ahead and leave this step till last then when your system is fully

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set up that way you could even Benchmark the before and after if you happen to be

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a turbo nerd like me if you do enable XMP and find that your system fails to

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boot or is occasionally unstable manually dialing back the memory speed

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or slightly increasing the voltage might make the difference worst case scenario

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you can disable memory overclocking entirely and everything should work

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normally if it doesn't you could be looking at a warranty replacement next

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up if you've got a beefy enough cooler some bioses let you toggle a setting

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like core enhancement or Precision boost

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enhancement this can help e a little bit more performance out at the cost of

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additional heat and power draw by making your CPU turbo more aggressively or for

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longer this one is less likely to harm stability but again if you experience

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problems I'd recommend just turning it off our next stop will be resizable bar

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a feature that boosts GPU performance by giving the system more efficient access

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to its onboard memory this is usually going to be somewhere in the advanced

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section often under a heading for PCI devices if you don't see it it's

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possible your motherboard doesn't support it but it's also possible that

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you need to enable above 4G decoding in order for it to show up unlike memory

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overclocking this setting has no real downside so you might as well enable it

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it won't do anything if your GPU doesn't support it and on some Modern gpus it is

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basically essential for proper performance to the point where the very

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newest motherboards as of writing might ship with this on by default another

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option we want to make sure is enabled is virtualization on Intel this is often

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called VTX while AMD calls it svm along

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with letting you run virtual machines if you want to with very little performance

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penalty virtualization technology is used by operating systems to enhance

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security by sectioning off parts of the system which is generally considered to

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be a very good idea TM this is often

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buried inside inside the CPU configuration settings section and like

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resizable bar the newest motherboards may ship with this on by default a

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related setting is the trusted platform module or TPM Windows 11 mandates it as

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the second part of its virtualization-based security feature

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and for improving Windows hello biometric login and bit Locker dis

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encryption security for that reason it's usually best to keep it enabled or

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enable it if it isn't already otherwise no Windows 11 for you at least not

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officially anyway you'll also officially get no Windows 11 if you don't enable

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secure boot which helps guarantee that nothing malicious slipped in between the

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BIOS and loading the operating system this could be a simple toggle or you

00:13:41.000 --> 00:13:47.160
might need to select the option to install the default Keys like on this board from ASUS but if that option

00:13:45.760 --> 00:13:51.160
doesn't show up anywhere it could be that CSM or compatibility support module

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is enabled which puts the computer into a sort of old school boot mode and

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secure boot doesn't roll that way so unless you know that you actually need

00:13:56.600 --> 00:14:02.240
it it's usually best to disable CSM one hot tip that might save you some

00:14:00.560 --> 00:14:05.920
headaches later is to determine what onboard Hardware you don't need for

00:14:04.360 --> 00:14:10.279
example motherboards with built-in Wireless secondary land ports or any

00:14:08.320 --> 00:14:15.120
other extras will have them all enabled by default and they can sometimes be

00:14:12.360 --> 00:14:18.759
excessively chatty this often manifests as stuttering or hitching even when the

00:14:16.839 --> 00:14:22.399
system isn't even close to fully loaded because the CPU has to drop whatever

00:14:20.360 --> 00:14:25.720
it's doing to listen to your Wi-Fi cargo blah blah blah about the signal strength

00:14:24.160 --> 00:14:30.000
of your neighbor's Wi-Fi that you're not even using so take a moment and disable

00:14:27.720 --> 00:14:32.920
anything you're 100% sure you don't need just remember you did it so you're not

00:14:31.560 --> 00:14:37.199
tearing your hair out later trying to figure out why your serial Port drivers won't install there are a handful of

00:14:36.040 --> 00:14:42.360
other features you might wish to play around with for example you might want to reorder your boot devices or set up

00:14:41.000 --> 00:14:47.800
custom fan control if your board supports it but for the most part you should leave the rest of the stuff in

00:14:45.440 --> 00:14:51.680
here alone especially voltages unless you're sure you know what they do and

00:14:49.360 --> 00:14:55.600
accept the risks for now if you built your own PC it's time to install your

00:14:53.560 --> 00:14:59.320
operating system or if you bought a pre-built it's time to install your

00:14:57.600 --> 00:15:03.680
operating system I mean I mean you don't strictly speaking have to but since so

00:15:02.079 --> 00:15:08.000
many machines come with bloatware pre-installed on them it may actually

00:15:05.519 --> 00:15:12.839
take less time to just load up a fresh one than to sanitize what you've already

00:15:09.639 --> 00:15:14.279
got step one then is to download your OS

00:15:12.839 --> 00:15:19.240
we're going to use Windows 11 as our example but most of this also applies to

00:15:16.560 --> 00:15:24.000
Windows 10 Microsoft provides a free tool to download an ISO that can either

00:15:21.440 --> 00:15:27.279
be saved so you can burn it or used to automatically build a USB installer

00:15:26.160 --> 00:15:32.800
we're going to have that linked Down Below download it grab your USB flash drive and make sure

00:15:31.160 --> 00:15:36.959
that anything you care about on it is backed up cuz this is going to wipe it

00:15:34.680 --> 00:15:41.959
clean go through the prompts the recommended version is almost always

00:15:38.720 --> 00:15:43.800
what you want and choose USB flash drive

00:15:41.959 --> 00:15:48.000
select the drive and it's Off to the Races while you wait for this to finish

00:15:46.199 --> 00:15:52.000
I would strongly recommend downloading your Hardware drivers from the

00:15:49.399 --> 00:15:56.519
manufacturer's websites in particular you are definitely going to want your

00:15:53.839 --> 00:16:00.880
network driver and some systems might also need the storage driver in order to

00:15:58.360 --> 00:16:04.279
get Through the Windows setup process I usually just grab it all cuz storage is

00:16:03.000 --> 00:16:09.079
cheap and I'm not doing anything right now anyway once the Windows flash drive

00:16:06.759 --> 00:16:12.880
is finished unzip the drivers to it I like making a driver's folder with

00:16:11.160 --> 00:16:18.040
individual folders for each driver to keep them easy to find then eject it and

00:16:15.360 --> 00:16:22.560
pop it into your new pc and restart it it should boot right into the installer

00:16:20.639 --> 00:16:26.399
but if it doesn't you should be able to choose the installer from the BIOS or

00:16:24.759 --> 00:16:32.000
through a boot menu which is usually accessible by mashing f8 or F2 12 on the

00:16:29.240 --> 00:16:35.560
bio screen fun fact did you know that you can open a command prompt at any

00:16:33.959 --> 00:16:41.120
time during Windows setup by holding shift and pressing F10 a fun little Pro

00:16:38.240 --> 00:16:45.800
tip is if you do this and then type dis part right at the beginning and hit

00:16:42.759 --> 00:16:48.120
enter Then list disk you can see all the

00:16:45.800 --> 00:16:52.639
drives that are installed on the PC that way if your storage device isn't showing

00:16:49.880 --> 00:16:55.880
up it's a faster way to know and you can quickly reboot the system and

00:16:53.839 --> 00:17:00.120
troubleshoot it and if it is showing up you can type select disk followed by the

00:16:57.880 --> 00:17:03.759
number next to it it and type clean to remove anything from that drive if you

00:17:02.279 --> 00:17:09.160
want to be really sure and you have some time to kill clean all will crawl the

00:17:06.760 --> 00:17:13.679
drive and directly set every single bit to zero which is basically a secure Ras

00:17:11.919 --> 00:17:17.880
though that takes a while especially with higher capacity drives once you're

00:17:15.600 --> 00:17:22.240
done type exit twice hitting enter both times to close the command window then

00:17:20.079 --> 00:17:25.360
proceed through the prompts if you come to the part where you need to select

00:17:23.640 --> 00:17:29.880
where to install Windows and nothing is there it's time to put that storage

00:17:27.039 --> 00:17:33.720
driver to use click load driver then find the folder on the flash drive that

00:17:31.440 --> 00:17:37.880
you unzipped your storage driver to with any luck the driver will pick up your

00:17:35.240 --> 00:17:42.600
drive and you can proceed as normal in some situations by the way Windows does

00:17:39.840 --> 00:17:47.160
a thing and splits your install across two drives most often if one of the

00:17:45.200 --> 00:17:51.200
installed drives has an existing Windows partition on it so if you have an old

00:17:49.520 --> 00:17:55.640
drive that you're planning to copy data from that has an operating system I

00:17:53.520 --> 00:18:00.200
would strongly recommend shutting down the system and removing it until you

00:17:57.840 --> 00:18:03.400
finished the setup process now most people will want to select the

00:18:01.480 --> 00:18:08.120
unallocated space for the drive you want to install Windows on and continue but

00:18:06.159 --> 00:18:12.600
if you only have one drive and you want to separate Windows from your documents

00:18:10.120 --> 00:18:17.919
Games Etc so that you can wipe Windows clean without worry later then you can

00:18:15.000 --> 00:18:21.760
create a new Partition for just that with this button this will steal the

00:18:20.360 --> 00:18:25.120
amount of storage capacity you choose for it from the Windows drive so you'll

00:18:23.760 --> 00:18:29.720
have to make the call on how much to assign to Windows and to your storage

00:18:27.400 --> 00:18:33.080
Drive based on what you expect to need installed on your Windows drive you can

00:18:31.480 --> 00:18:37.320
then click the remaining unallocated space to install Windows to it it'll set

00:18:35.600 --> 00:18:41.520
up everything on its own when you're satisfied click next and make a sandwich

00:18:40.039 --> 00:18:45.559
quickly though because this shouldn't take too long on a modern PC after a

00:18:43.880 --> 00:18:49.480
reboot or two you should see the screen to get connected to the network and

00:18:47.039 --> 00:18:55.280
download updates if nothing comes up here this is where those network drivers

00:18:51.799 --> 00:18:59.200
come in press shift and F10 again then

00:18:55.280 --> 00:19:01.120
Dev management. MSC and hit enter find

00:18:59.200 --> 00:19:06.159
the unknown devices called Ethernet controllers rightclick them and click

00:19:03.480 --> 00:19:10.480
update driver again browse to where you extracted the drivers to your USB drive

00:19:08.280 --> 00:19:14.120
and it should pick them up unfortunately Windows doesn't give you an easy way to

00:19:12.320 --> 00:19:17.159
know which one is which so there might be a bit of trial and error with

00:19:15.600 --> 00:19:21.240
selecting the right driver for each controller if you have more than one or

00:19:19.640 --> 00:19:26.760
if you get bored of this monkey business entirely you can just bring the command

00:19:23.159 --> 00:19:29.039
prompt back up and type UB back/ bypass

00:19:26.760 --> 00:19:33.000
nro and then you can just deal with the network drivers once you hit the desktop

00:19:31.159 --> 00:19:36.880
fun fact this also removes the requirement for an online Microsoft

00:19:34.760 --> 00:19:40.320
account if you're successful installing network drivers however your yellow

00:19:38.559 --> 00:19:44.440
exclamation point should disappear from device manager allowing you to proceed

00:19:42.559 --> 00:19:48.120
that's the end of the hard part so we're just going to mostly skip over the rest

00:19:46.520 --> 00:19:52.640
just noting that we would suggest turning off most of the analytics

00:19:49.840 --> 00:19:56.559
options and oh make sure you take a note of that restore from backup option if

00:19:54.600 --> 00:20:02.120
you did use a Microsoft account you're going to learn what that's for later now

00:19:58.760 --> 00:20:04.880
that you're on the desktop then now what

00:20:02.120 --> 00:20:09.280
well first order of business is drivers some systems will offer to install them

00:20:07.120 --> 00:20:12.840
automatically using built-in software and some of those let you thankfully

00:20:10.960 --> 00:20:16.440
disable that feature in the BIOS if you don't like software you can't control

00:20:14.480 --> 00:20:21.720
lurking inside your system but more importantly it can also lead to extra

00:20:19.280 --> 00:20:25.640
bloat being installed on your machine for now you should install all the

00:20:23.480 --> 00:20:28.760
drivers you downloaded previously which might take a couple of reboots before

00:20:27.200 --> 00:20:32.640
you get through them all but should be fairly straightforward for most driver

00:20:30.520 --> 00:20:36.720
packages nowadays if all you have is a cab file and an INF file you might have

00:20:34.840 --> 00:20:40.640
to go to the device manager and use that update driver trick that we showed you

00:20:38.159 --> 00:20:43.760
earlier but that shouldn't be a big deal once everything's installed and your

00:20:41.840 --> 00:20:47.840
yellow exclamation marks are gone go ahead and grab Windows updates until

00:20:45.720 --> 00:20:51.960
there aren't anymore then right click the taskbar go to taskbar settings then

00:20:50.280 --> 00:20:56.000
remove search cuz it's pointless and left align the start menu because you

00:20:53.360 --> 00:20:59.600
are a man or lady of culture now you're ready to start getting settled in if if

00:20:58.159 --> 00:21:05.880
you have any Bluetooth devices that you want to connect you can do that through the Bluetooth icon in the system tray

00:21:03.440 --> 00:21:09.080
just click add device choose Bluetooth and make sure that your device is in

00:21:07.159 --> 00:21:12.520
pairing mode it should show up in a few seconds and then all you need to do is

00:21:10.840 --> 00:21:16.600
Select it and follow the instructions on screen some devices will connect right

00:21:14.520 --> 00:21:20.679
away While others may need you to press a button or key in a code to confirm

00:21:19.120 --> 00:21:24.400
once the device is connected it should reconnect automatically every time it's

00:21:22.440 --> 00:21:27.760
turned on if you later pair it with another device though and it no longer

00:21:25.880 --> 00:21:31.240
works with your PC just look for it in the license list click the three dots to

00:21:29.799 --> 00:21:34.880
forget it and go through the pairing process again once you're satisfied

00:21:33.440 --> 00:21:39.000
everything is connected it's time to check your network config Windows has a

00:21:37.000 --> 00:21:42.720
firewall built in to protect your PC from unauthorized access from your

00:21:40.640 --> 00:21:47.440
network but it has two modes that Define how strict it will be the first nowadays

00:21:45.080 --> 00:21:51.559
the default is public which treats all incoming connections with suspicion

00:21:49.279 --> 00:21:55.200
unless you specifically allow an app to accept them this is great for connecting

00:21:53.520 --> 00:21:58.200
to unsecured public Wi-Fi at your favorite coffee shop but if you have a

00:21:56.799 --> 00:22:02.960
home network and you'd like to share files you'll want to change over your connection to private which relaxes

00:22:01.400 --> 00:22:06.039
security to allow connection from your local network you can change this by

00:22:04.640 --> 00:22:09.360
right clicking the network icon in the system tray then clicking network and

00:22:07.720 --> 00:22:14.600
internet settings click on the network connection you want to change then toggle either private or public as

00:22:12.360 --> 00:22:17.880
desired the next thing you'll want to do especially if you're sharing files on

00:22:16.080 --> 00:22:22.080
the network is to set up your power options in the settings app under system

00:22:19.840 --> 00:22:25.640
then power here you can set when your PC goes to sleep when your screens go to

00:22:23.799 --> 00:22:28.640
sleep and how aggressively your PC should try to optimize for performance

00:22:27.279 --> 00:22:32.279
or power using by default Windows will set your PC to

00:22:30.360 --> 00:22:35.760
sleep after 10 minutes but if you're a fan of accessing your PC remotely

00:22:34.039 --> 00:22:39.679
through an app like team viewer parsec or tail scale or sharing files like we

00:22:37.600 --> 00:22:43.440
mentioned earlier it'll be inaccessible while it's asleep without some very

00:22:41.120 --> 00:22:46.480
specific steps in that case you might want to set your PC to never sleep

00:22:45.279 --> 00:22:50.360
though that does mean you'll be missing out on those sleep power savings you can

00:22:48.880 --> 00:22:53.480
however tune that power draw by searching for edit power plan in the

00:22:51.880 --> 00:22:57.080
start menu and clicking the change Advanced power settings Link in the

00:22:55.039 --> 00:23:00.559
vintage window that pops up there are a bunch of settings here ranging from when

00:22:58.640 --> 00:23:04.880
to turn off spinning hard disks and how many power saving features are enabled

00:23:02.400 --> 00:23:08.600
for your Wi-Fi USB and PCI Express devices as well as the ability to set

00:23:06.960 --> 00:23:12.279
the minimum and maximum performance of your CPU these options can also be

00:23:10.720 --> 00:23:16.600
useful for troubleshooting things like periodic dropouts and disconnections for

00:23:14.360 --> 00:23:20.960
example if your USB cable is good and the port is good try turning off USB

00:23:18.760 --> 00:23:24.440
selective suspend or if your Wi-Fi is unreliable you can try setting it to

00:23:22.679 --> 00:23:27.960
maximum performance now that your devices and core settings are set up you

00:23:26.320 --> 00:23:31.760
want to tweak some of the more common user settings for example most Gamers

00:23:30.120 --> 00:23:35.240
don't like Mouse acceleration and the easiest way to find this is by typing

00:23:33.480 --> 00:23:38.880
Mouse in the start menu search and then selecting change the mouse pointer

00:23:36.720 --> 00:23:42.919
display or speed in this window click pointer options then uncheck enhance

00:23:41.039 --> 00:23:46.640
pointer Precision if it's enabled you should generally leave the cursor speed

00:23:44.600 --> 00:23:50.080
where it is and use DPI switching that's built into your mouse or Mouse software

00:23:48.159 --> 00:23:53.640
for that instead you can change the other options here to taste or lack

00:23:51.760 --> 00:23:57.600
there of but for now just hit okay it's a good idea at this point to

00:23:56.039 --> 00:24:01.720
set up some File Explorer settings by hitting these dots here and opening up

00:23:59.279 --> 00:24:06.159
the options window here among other things we can choose whether to see the

00:24:03.640 --> 00:24:10.799
default home view with recent documents or the this PC view where only drives

00:24:08.760 --> 00:24:14.440
attached to the system are shown if you'd like to avoid getting duped by the

00:24:12.520 --> 00:24:19.360
way like when we had our Channel hacked recently you should then go to view and

00:24:17.159 --> 00:24:24.880
uncheck hide extensions for known file types I will never understand why this

00:24:22.720 --> 00:24:28.600
is enabled by default there are some other options in here like showing

00:24:26.600 --> 00:24:32.559
hidden files uh restoring previous Windows when restarting and so on and so

00:24:30.720 --> 00:24:36.919
forth so go ahead and modify to suit your tastes or click on restore defaults

00:24:35.360 --> 00:24:40.039
if you can't find that one option that you changed that you ended up not liking

00:24:38.880 --> 00:24:45.200
one more thing you'll notice in this window is the apply to folders button

00:24:42.600 --> 00:24:49.120
what's that do well if you rightclick empty space in an Explorer window you're

00:24:47.120 --> 00:24:52.840
going to see a view option with a bunch of different layouts here's what each of

00:24:51.000 --> 00:24:57.480
them looks like and here's the available columns to sort with the details view

00:24:55.520 --> 00:25:01.960
regardless of the view you can sort or group Group by these criteria grouping

00:24:59.720 --> 00:25:06.120
by date by the way is a great way to sort your downloads and your photos if

00:25:04.440 --> 00:25:10.279
you get it set up just right and you want to use that layout as the default

00:25:07.880 --> 00:25:15.000
for all folders on your PC that's what the apply to folders button does if you

00:25:12.760 --> 00:25:19.960
want a specific folder to show large icons or thumbnails you can set it

00:25:17.480 --> 00:25:23.960
separately which is pretty neat right and don't worry if you mess something up

00:25:21.880 --> 00:25:28.200
the reset folders button is always there to help you speaking of folders did you

00:25:26.279 --> 00:25:32.559
know you can change the location of these main folders here just right click

00:25:30.640 --> 00:25:36.520
on them click properties and then look at the location tab click move and

00:25:35.120 --> 00:25:41.120
you'll be able to choose a new spot for them it doesn't work very well with one

00:25:38.840 --> 00:25:44.360
drive but if you've got a separate drive or a partition that you'd like to use

00:25:42.600 --> 00:25:49.600
for your files while keeping Windows separate this is for you when you click

00:25:47.559 --> 00:25:53.520
okay it'll even ask if it should move any existing files over to the new

00:25:51.360 --> 00:25:58.120
location which is super handy if you're doing this on a system that you've

00:25:54.720 --> 00:25:59.440
already kind of moved into of course

00:25:58.120 --> 00:26:03.520
there's a more fundamental way to personalize your PC if you rightclick

00:26:01.480 --> 00:26:07.520
the desktop and click personalization you'll find options to change the

00:26:04.919 --> 00:26:11.279
background colors and more you can even have a group of background pictures that

00:26:09.240 --> 00:26:15.960
will change periodically if you use slideshow under colors you can choose

00:26:13.640 --> 00:26:20.279
whether you're on the light or dark side enable or disable the mic transparency

00:26:18.200 --> 00:26:23.080
effect on some Windows and manually select an accent color if you don't like

00:26:21.880 --> 00:26:27.679
what Windows chose to match your background oh and you can choose whether

00:26:25.840 --> 00:26:33.200
it should apply to the taskbar and to Windows too a special note here is the

00:26:30.640 --> 00:26:37.080
contrast themes section this can be really helpful for people with visual

00:26:34.760 --> 00:26:41.520
impairments or just to look cool if you dig the aesthetic because it applies

00:26:39.360 --> 00:26:45.200
everywhere and you can edit the colors that it selects yourself there's some

00:26:43.679 --> 00:26:49.240
other useful stuff in the accessibility section of the settings app too for

00:26:47.039 --> 00:26:53.240
example you can make scroll bars always show if you hate the autohide stick you

00:26:51.440 --> 00:26:57.760
can turn off Windows animations for faster navigation you can change the

00:26:55.360 --> 00:27:00.960
size and style of your cursor and importantly for people who don't use

00:26:59.120 --> 00:27:05.559
them you can disable the keyboard shortcuts for sticky keys and filter

00:27:03.159 --> 00:27:10.080
Keys oh that toggle Keys function can be helpful too it plays a beep whenever you

00:27:07.760 --> 00:27:14.039
enable caps lock num lock or scroll lock so you don't have to look down at your

00:27:11.240 --> 00:27:18.640
keyboard to see if they're on a common problem for monitors is that either HDR

00:27:16.640 --> 00:27:23.559
or high refresh rate aren't set up correctly by default even though your

00:27:20.960 --> 00:27:27.159
display supports it you can fix that by right clicking on the desktop and

00:27:24.840 --> 00:27:30.679
clicking display settings HDR settings can be found in the brightness and color

00:27:28.679 --> 00:27:36.200
section and clicking on it gives you the option to enable HDR as well as Auto HDR

00:27:33.799 --> 00:27:41.960
which will cause non-HDR games to pretend their HDR with um honestly mixed

00:27:39.360 --> 00:27:46.840
results you can also adjust how SDR content will appear when you're in HDR

00:27:44.039 --> 00:27:51.799
mode using this slider which will also affect the brightness of the desktop if

00:27:48.960 --> 00:27:56.159
you have multiple HDR monitors congrats you fancy pants you uh you can adjust

00:27:53.799 --> 00:27:59.440
them independently of each other also HDR or not if you you have multiple

00:27:58.120 --> 00:28:03.120
monitors and they're not in the right order and you haven't already fixed it

00:28:01.519 --> 00:28:07.000
yourself because of how infuriating it was you can drag them around in the

00:28:05.200 --> 00:28:11.720
display settings window like this and even rotate them if you like having one

00:28:08.880 --> 00:28:16.159
in portrait or even one upside down using the display orientation drop down

00:28:14.200 --> 00:28:19.559
you can see which is which by using the identify button to make this a bit

00:28:17.640 --> 00:28:24.440
easier and you can choose which one is your main display so the one with the

00:28:21.519 --> 00:28:28.120
system tray using this checkbox here one little Pro tip by the way is that if

00:28:25.880 --> 00:28:32.640
your cursor jumps As you move between the displays you can tweak the alignment

00:28:30.360 --> 00:28:35.559
in this menu like so if your monitors are different sizes and resolutions

00:28:34.399 --> 00:28:39.720
you're not going to be able to get it absolutely perfect but it'll at least

00:28:37.399 --> 00:28:43.760
help smooth things a little bit for refresh rate you're going to need to

00:28:41.000 --> 00:28:47.120
scroll down to Advanced display from here you can choose each of your

00:28:45.000 --> 00:28:51.840
monitors individually up top and then select the refresh rate down below now

00:28:49.399 --> 00:28:56.840
Windows is usually okay about selecting refresh rates but overclocked monitors

00:28:54.720 --> 00:29:01.679
including monitors with overclock functions right out of the box will

00:28:59.039 --> 00:29:06.679
often report the non overclocked refresh rate as the best one and that is just

00:29:04.279 --> 00:29:10.480
factually incorrect so if you still don't see your refresh rate you might

00:29:08.360 --> 00:29:16.000
need to use your GPU's Configuration utility or try a different cable another

00:29:13.799 --> 00:29:20.200
thing Windows guesses at sometimes with comically bad results is the size that

00:29:18.600 --> 00:29:24.600
you might prefer for your Windows and for your text if you want things larger

00:29:22.440 --> 00:29:29.279
or smaller just look for scale about halfway down the display settings window

00:29:26.679 --> 00:29:33.080
a 20 7 in 4k monitor will typically be set to

00:29:30.320 --> 00:29:37.519
150% which is roughly equivalent to how big things would look if it were

00:29:34.799 --> 00:29:43.440
1440p if you were to set that 4K display to 200% it would look like if it was

00:29:40.080 --> 00:29:45.640
1080p at that size just sharper and so

00:29:43.440 --> 00:29:48.960
on and so forth if you've got multiple monitors you can select each one

00:29:47.320 --> 00:29:54.240
independently at the top of the window and then choose different scales so for

00:29:50.960 --> 00:29:57.360
example 100% for a 1080p gaming Monitor

00:29:54.240 --> 00:29:59.279
and 200% for a secondary 4K content

00:29:57.360 --> 00:30:02.679
consumption monitor could make things on screen appear to be the same size

00:30:01.440 --> 00:30:07.679
assuming that they're the same size physically you're going to have to experiment with it a little bit and see

00:30:05.559 --> 00:30:11.840
what you like and it's worth noting that you might have to log out and log back

00:30:09.519 --> 00:30:15.440
in for it to take effect in every app rather not enter your password again

00:30:14.039 --> 00:30:20.080
well good news if you're using a Microsoft account you can enable Windows

00:30:17.320 --> 00:30:24.480
hello what's it do it enables you to use your fingerprint a pin or your face with

00:30:22.200 --> 00:30:29.159
a compatible camera to log in without your password why would you do that

00:30:26.960 --> 00:30:34.399
first forgetting your password sucks and getting locked out of your PC sucks more

00:30:31.559 --> 00:30:38.600
second it can actually be more secure because typing out your password means a

00:30:36.320 --> 00:30:42.840
key logger or a particularly nosy housemate might be able to read your

00:30:40.440 --> 00:30:46.519
keystrokes this way Windows hello makes it so someone gaining access to your PC

00:30:44.600 --> 00:30:51.720
doesn't also gain access to your Microsoft account to secure your PC even

00:30:49.399 --> 00:30:56.360
better than a password alone Ever Could you can use bit Locker bit Locker

00:30:53.960 --> 00:31:00.480
encrypts your entire drive and while by default it will only protect against

00:30:58.000 --> 00:31:05.639
someone cloning or removing your storage device you can optionally lock it down

00:31:03.000 --> 00:31:10.399
with a pin a password or USB flash drive key that's required before your PC ever

00:31:08.200 --> 00:31:13.799
gets to the login screen it's best to enable bit Locker shortly after you

00:31:12.120 --> 00:31:17.679
install Windows so the encryption doesn't take forever but once it's

00:31:15.720 --> 00:31:22.960
encrypted it's super fast to encrypt and decrypt on the fly on Modern Hardware

00:31:20.480 --> 00:31:28.279
your apps will barely even notice speaking of apps how do you install them

00:31:25.679 --> 00:31:32.440
well you could go every website and download the installers individually

00:31:30.000 --> 00:31:37.200
like some kind of cave person but you could also use tools to make things

00:31:34.399 --> 00:31:41.919
simpler a classic is Nite which lets you batch download and install a wide

00:31:39.000 --> 00:31:45.559
variety of apps in one shot it's a huge timesaver here's some of the stuff that

00:31:43.799 --> 00:31:50.159
we might select for ourselves for a new install just one pro tip here please

00:31:48.240 --> 00:31:54.639
don't install multiple anti-malware Shields if you value your sanity or your

00:31:52.320 --> 00:31:58.279
performance one is fine though there are some other great options for managing

00:31:56.120 --> 00:32:01.600
software too one of which is to use the Microsoft store and I know I know before

00:32:00.000 --> 00:32:05.279
you say it I know it's loaded with crapware and requires a Microsoft

00:32:03.320 --> 00:32:09.279
account but there are plenty of normal apps on there including a lot of the

00:32:06.960 --> 00:32:12.639
ones installed By Nite and as a bonus they're updated automatically along with

00:32:11.039 --> 00:32:16.320
all your other store apps so you don't need to keep on top of app updates

00:32:14.480 --> 00:32:19.320
individually here's a bunch of our commonly installed apps that are

00:32:17.559 --> 00:32:22.480
available on the Microsoft store another bonus is that they're automatically

00:32:20.799 --> 00:32:27.240
redownloaded if you have to reinstall which is pretty sick if you have more

00:32:25.200 --> 00:32:30.480
selective taste in software or you just want to install everything in one place

00:32:29.200 --> 00:32:34.200
you can make use of a little known Windows feature called wind get we

00:32:32.600 --> 00:32:37.919
brought this up previously along with a thirdparty alternative chocy but with

00:32:36.600 --> 00:32:41.720
either of them you can search for the software you want copy the exact name

00:32:40.080 --> 00:32:46.360
and shove that into a batch file with commands to install or update them that

00:32:43.960 --> 00:32:49.799
can be a little tedious to maintain but the upside is you can keep that batch

00:32:47.960 --> 00:32:52.720
file on a flash drive or cloud storage so the next time you need to install

00:32:51.080 --> 00:32:56.600
Windows you can get back up and running extremely quickly and like with the

00:32:54.720 --> 00:33:01.159
Microsoft store you can schedule it to automatic check for updates for you

00:32:58.679 --> 00:33:05.480
steam is a special boy though it's like an app store all on its own once

00:33:03.440 --> 00:33:09.240
installed you've got steam Library folders that contain anything that you

00:33:07.279 --> 00:33:12.519
download to them and if you have a separate drive that you'd like to use

00:33:11.080 --> 00:33:16.519
instead of your Windows Drive whether it's a partition or a physical one

00:33:14.559 --> 00:33:21.639
you'll need to go to steam settings then storage click the plus next to your C

00:33:18.960 --> 00:33:25.679
drive select your other drive then click add it's going to show up right next to

00:33:23.440 --> 00:33:30.000
your C drive click the three dots and select make default to make sure that

00:33:27.639 --> 00:33:34.880
steam install software to that drive instead of your main one by default then

00:33:32.440 --> 00:33:39.600
you're off to the races which is great and all I hear you say but I've got

00:33:37.120 --> 00:33:45.000
these peripheral things and my RGB is out of control what do I do well many

00:33:42.840 --> 00:33:49.399
peripherals these days do come with driver software but if you want my

00:33:47.320 --> 00:33:54.320
humble opinion you should be asking yourself if you really need it before

00:33:52.080 --> 00:33:59.159
you click that download button even the most reputable vendor software can be

00:33:56.440 --> 00:34:02.600
very re resource intensive and if you're not married to a single brand for all

00:34:00.760 --> 00:34:06.679
your peripherals you could end up with three or four different programs just to

00:34:05.120 --> 00:34:12.119
control your devices but okay if you've got to have

00:34:09.399 --> 00:34:16.520
them what you can do to help with this is to install them then disable them

00:34:14.720 --> 00:34:21.079
from starting automatically using task manager built-in startup item section

00:34:19.000 --> 00:34:24.800
just fire up task manager there's a few different ways to do this listed here

00:34:23.119 --> 00:34:29.480
but the pro mov is of course control shift escape and then with this method

00:34:26.960 --> 00:34:33.480
method you can for example set up your mouse DPI switches and all of your

00:34:31.480 --> 00:34:37.679
lighting save it to the mouse's onboard memory then close the software for

00:34:35.520 --> 00:34:41.440
maximum gaming performance and only run it when it's necessary to make your

00:34:39.119 --> 00:34:45.119
stuff work it's actually a good idea by the way to check this list from time to

00:34:43.240 --> 00:34:49.200
time and disable anything that you don't want or need the same goes for companion

00:34:47.839 --> 00:34:53.639
software that's installed by your Hardware drivers this stuff can add up

00:34:51.679 --> 00:34:57.800
I'm talking sound control panels temperature monitors I mean the list

00:34:55.440 --> 00:35:02.880
goes on and let's be real they're usually not very polished despite the

00:35:00.079 --> 00:35:07.760
alleged R&D budgets of these companies so maybe try some third party software

00:35:05.000 --> 00:35:13.040
like the peace equalizer APO goey or Hardware info instead which can give you

00:35:10.480 --> 00:35:17.040
much greater granularity and aren't tied to specific Hardware oh since we're on

00:35:15.000 --> 00:35:21.200
the subject by the way Hardware info is a great tool for double-checking that

00:35:19.160 --> 00:35:24.800
all your devices are actually showing up and for making sure that you didn't make

00:35:23.200 --> 00:35:30.079
any mistakes while you were installing your cooler a simple combination stress

00:35:27.680 --> 00:35:34.440
test like cinch and furmark while monitoring your CPU and GPU core

00:35:31.960 --> 00:35:39.000
temperatures will quickly reveal any critical errors in your build hopefully

00:35:36.680 --> 00:35:46.760
before they become a long-term problem anything under 90° here is probably fine

00:35:43.440 --> 00:35:48.560
but we'd like to see 70 to 80 though of

00:35:46.760 --> 00:35:54.680
course there are exceptions like some high performance CPUs for example are

00:35:50.839 --> 00:35:56.920
going to Target 90 to 100° or more

00:35:54.680 --> 00:36:02.119
whether you like it or not speaking of like it or not

00:35:58.800 --> 00:36:04.760
RGB it's there and I think the one thing

00:36:02.119 --> 00:36:09.839
we can all agree on love it or hate it is that the Control software is a CPU

00:36:07.119 --> 00:36:15.880
hog for best performance then I would recommend leaving that RGB alone either

00:36:12.440 --> 00:36:17.839
rainbow bar or off but if you must

00:36:15.880 --> 00:36:22.160
adjust it there are alternatives to the many vendor specific RGB control apps

00:36:19.960 --> 00:36:26.760
that are out there and Windows 11 even recently got control for this albeit

00:36:24.359 --> 00:36:30.640
with limited compatibility as of writing but if you want to try and consolidate

00:36:28.040 --> 00:36:36.680
your RGB into a single app just try open RGB or signal RGB open RGB tends to be

00:36:34.079 --> 00:36:41.160
lighter but less flashy while signal RGB is more capable but will make your CPU

00:36:39.040 --> 00:36:46.720
work for it like the others will like we had to work hard for this segue to our

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