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you did it you finally built or bought a brand

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new gaming PC except there's one small problem right now it's the most

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expensive paper weight you own how do you make the computer

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compute well doing it right takes more than just plugging her in and letting

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her rip like ooh what's this button do

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and what the heck am I looking at here how do I get past this well for starters

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you're going to have to get past today's sponsor thorum it's Valentine's Day do you know

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where your gift is get yourself or your loved one a unique and stunning ring

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this Valentine's Day and make it extra precious For Your Precious just go to

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the link down below and use code LT to get 20% off our goal in making this

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video was to be as comprehensive as possible so while we would recommend

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watching it all the way through the first time we've added convenient

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chapter markers if you ever want to come back for a topic specific refresher

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we'll begin with the physical things that you need to set up starting with

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location now obviously easy access to your ports

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is critical so depending on your case you might prefer it on the right or on

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the left but what's less obvious is that

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your PC's position can have a big impact on future maintenance requirements the

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main way that dust enters your case is by being sucked into the front or the

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bottom intake fans keeping those off the floor means that your system will

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require far less frequent cleaning this is especially true for carpeted flooring

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which not only acts as a pet hair magnet but can also starve your power supply of

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fresh air depending on its orientation if you must have your system

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on the floor though at least do yourself a favor and put it under the edge of

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your desk even with top exhaust fans a

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shocking amount of dust can settle down into your system if you have an open top

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grill if your system has an antenna it should be in line of sight with any

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Bluetooth peripherals that you intend to connect later and it should be clear of

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anything that might block the signal to your Wi-Fi access point like a dense

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concrete wall or granite countertop or

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even the PC's chassis itself I mean you know what they say distance makes the RF

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signal stronger now you're ready to plug in and the first cable is going to be

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power this ensures that your equipment is grounded and protected from

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electrostatic discharge as for the other end of the cable well good PC power

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supplies can handle a wide range of power conditions before supplying

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anything to the rest of your PC but plugging into the wall or into a dumb

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power strip can stress it if your wall power is noisy or prone to voltage

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sagging and brownouts this is especially true when other high power appliances

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are running like say an air conditioner a UPS or premium search protector can

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help clean that power up a bit before it hits your PC or display but failing that

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I'd recommend at least a basic surge protector which can help protect your

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computer against voltage spikes from things like a lightning strike for

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desktop peripherals I'd recommend plugging your keyboard and your mouse

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into the slowest USB ports that are connected directly to your motherboard's

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chipset they're not going to use the extra performance of a faster Port

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anyway and plugging them into secondary controllers or into addin cards can

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sometimes cause them to stay inactive until the system is finished booting or

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experience delays and hitches you can check the block diagram for your

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motherboard if you're unsure which ports are connected to what the same is true

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by the way if you're using a USB headset or a desktop dck and amp pretty much

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every time I've seen someone report issues with these things it's because they're connected through a hub or

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something do yourself a favor connect directly now if your audio device uses

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an old school headphone jack you can either use the front panel ones if your

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case has them or you can use the ports on the rear they'll usually be

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colorcoded green and red for the headphones and mic respectively or else

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they'll have symbols next to them some Modern motherboards will actually prompt

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you for what you've plugged in and they'll work regardless of where you plug things in but they may not work

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optimally on that subject some cases and

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laptops might not have two separate three-pole Jacks but rather have a

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single four-pole Jack in that case you're going to need to get a y cable

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like this one unless your headset includes one in the box next up is

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display most gaming PCs come with a dedicated GPU installed in a PCI Express

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slot and you should always plug your main display into that rather than the

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ports on your motherboard's IO panel those ones are routed to your onboard

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Graphics instead now with the right UEFI BIOS configuration we'll touch on that

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in a moment your system May support connecting extra monitors to both of

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them at the same time but if you run your game off of the wrong ports it will

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have a negative impact on your gaming experience as for which cable to use

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HDMI DisplayPort or USBC that boils

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down to what your monitor supports and what your graphics card supports when in

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doubt DisplayPort is usually the more

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correct choice for PC thanks to its generally higher bandwidth and broader

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support for extras like variable refresh rate gaming but you should also refer to

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your GPU and display manuals to see exactly which features are supported one

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last thing if you're using a desktop with built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth and

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you intend to use it please make sure you screw in your antennas unlike

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laptops desktops often don't have integrated antennas and while you might

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be able to see nearby networks you will almost C ly struggle to stay connected

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to them it usually doesn't matter which one screws into where if you've got

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wired Ethernet instead then you'll often have one place to plug it in and you're

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good to go but if you have to it's probably worth checking your

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motherboard's manual to find out what's what sometimes they're the exact same

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thing and completely interchangeable but other times one will use a slower but

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maybe more broadly supported controller while the other might use a multi- gig

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controller that's faster but requires additional drivers once distributed into

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Windows these multi- gig ports can be a huge boom to creatives and to storage

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enthusiasts who have network attached storage devices or actually even Gamers

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who have balling out internet plans but if they're plugged into a typical

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Network that has gigabit ports everywhere else they're going to be

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limited to gigabit speeds anyway with everything plugged in and in place now's

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a good time to tidy up your cables you can use zip ties in a pinch but hook and

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loop cable ties are a better solution for future maintenance LTT storage

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also we have something even better coming soon sign up for an instock

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notification for our cable management arches at the link below now that that's

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done it's finally time to fire it up flick the switch around back on your

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power supply give it a second and then hit the power button if nothing happens

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you can refer to our last PC guide you'll ever need for some helpful

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troubleshooting tips before you do that though make sure your surge protector is

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plugged in and turned on too it's actually a more common mistake than you

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think is it going to power on first try

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oh crap oh power bar needs to be on oh

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even for us now that fan spin is achieved it's time to game right not yet

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nearly every modern computer has what we still refer to incorrectly as a BIOS the

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more modern term is UEFI but we're old school so BIOS is the screen you go to

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when you power on your PC and it usually has the logo of the manufacturer it's

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not just an ad though there's a whole menu buried in here if you press the

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right key before your operating system starts to boot up sometimes the you need

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to press to access it is listed on the screen but it'll usually be delete F2

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F10 or F12 if you're unsure check your manual feeling that just Mash all the

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above that usually gets the job done the

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exact layout of this setup screen will vary a lot depending on the manufacturer

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and model year of your system there are DIY motherboards from a decade ago with

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full graphical interfaces while some Modern machines have almost retro

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looking interfaces with no mouse support whatever the layout the first screen

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usually has information about the hardware installed the date and time and

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sometimes the order of the storage devices the PC will check for an

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operating system to boot before continuing make sure that everything is

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showing up as expected missing RAM for example could mean you need to receip

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the module or the CPU itself even if you've been around the block a few times

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you should check the manual to familiarize yourself with the layout

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before changing anything after all new platforms bring new features and new

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features bring new headaches it's at this point that you might want or

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sometimes need to upgrade your BIOS to the latest version on your motherboard

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or PC manufacturer's website the exact

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steps for this vary greatly by manufacturer and by Era but the gist is

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this turn off the PC download the BIOS

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from the manufacturer and unzip it to a flash drive which often must be

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formatted fat 32 once that's done eject

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it plug it into your PC again on a motherboard chipset Port get

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back into the BIOS and usually you'll find an option in here with flash in its

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name nine times out of 10 this is what you want select the flash drive choose

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the file you downloaded confirm then kick back and hope that the power

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doesn't go out your system May reboot a couple of times during this process

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which is normal but if It suffers a power loss it's quite vulnerable it's

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being bricked so if you have a battery backup of some sort kicking around

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please do use it there are sometimes ways to recover without this backup but

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the exact details VAR by vendor and you do not want to find out that yours

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doesn't have one after the fact read your motherboard's manual to be sure

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once it's done it should say the BIOS was updated and settings were reset

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allowing you to enter setup to continue now there are a few options of

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particular interest inside the BIOS starting with XMP and Expo the memory

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overclocking standards that were also previously L known as docp on older AMD

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platforms the location of this setting does vary a little bit but many

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motherboards will have it on the main page because it is such a common thing

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for enthusiasts to enable if you've got RAM That's rated for highp speeds this

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is a one touch way to hopefully reach

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those speeds enabling it will correctly set all of the relevant settings in your

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Motherboard BIOS including voltages and something called the memory ratio you

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don't need to fully understand what that means but for best performance 1: one is

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ideal on Intel and on AMD you often want to see the F clock match half of the

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memory speed don't worry too much if it doesn't line up though fast RAM is

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usually better than the alternative now this is technically overclocking though

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so it's worth noting that this might not work in every configuration if you have

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very fast memory or if you have more than two modules for example your CPU

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may have trouble running at the rated speeds if you're worried about stability

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you can go ahead and leave this step till last then when your system is fully

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set up that way you could even Benchmark the before and after if you happen to be

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a turbo nerd like me if you do enable XMP and find that your system fails to

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boot or is occasionally unstable manually dialing back the memory speed

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or slightly increasing the voltage might make the difference worst case scenario

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you can disable memory overclocking entirely and everything should work

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normally if it doesn't you could be looking at a warranty replacement next

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up if you've got a beefy enough cooler some bioses let you toggle a setting

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like core enhancement or Precision boost

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enhancement this can help e a little bit more performance out at the cost of

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additional heat and power draw by making your CPU turbo more aggressively or for

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longer this one is less likely to harm stability but again if you experience

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problems I'd recommend just turning it off our next stop will be resizable bar

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a feature that boosts GPU performance by giving the system more efficient access

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to its onboard memory this is usually going to be somewhere in the advanced

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section often under a heading for PCI devices if you don't see it it's

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possible your motherboard doesn't support it but it's also possible that

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you need to enable above 4G decoding in order for it to show up unlike memory

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overclocking this setting has no real downside so you might as well enable it

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it won't do anything if your GPU doesn't support it and on some Modern gpus it is

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basically essential for proper performance to the point where the very

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newest motherboards as of writing might ship with this on by default another

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option we want to make sure is enabled is virtualization on Intel this is often

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called VTX while AMD calls it svm along

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with letting you run virtual machines if you want to with very little performance

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penalty virtualization technology is used by operating systems to enhance

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security by sectioning off parts of the system which is generally considered to

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be a very good idea TM this is often

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buried inside inside the CPU configuration settings section and like

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resizable bar the newest motherboards may ship with this on by default a

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related setting is the trusted platform module or TPM Windows 11 mandates it as

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the second part of its virtualization-based security feature

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and for improving Windows hello biometric login and bit Locker dis

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encryption security for that reason it's usually best to keep it enabled or

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enable it if it isn't already otherwise no Windows 11 for you at least not

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officially anyway you'll also officially get no Windows 11 if you don't enable

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secure boot which helps guarantee that nothing malicious slipped in between the

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BIOS and loading the operating system this could be a simple toggle or you

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might need to select the option to install the default Keys like on this board from ASUS but if that option

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doesn't show up anywhere it could be that CSM or compatibility support module

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is enabled which puts the computer into a sort of old school boot mode and

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secure boot doesn't roll that way so unless you know that you actually need

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it it's usually best to disable CSM one hot tip that might save you some

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headaches later is to determine what onboard Hardware you don't need for

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example motherboards with built-in Wireless secondary land ports or any

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other extras will have them all enabled by default and they can sometimes be

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excessively chatty this often manifests as stuttering or hitching even when the

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system isn't even close to fully loaded because the CPU has to drop whatever

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it's doing to listen to your Wi-Fi cargo blah blah blah about the signal strength

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of your neighbor's Wi-Fi that you're not even using so take a moment and disable

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anything you're 100% sure you don't need just remember you did it so you're not

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tearing your hair out later trying to figure out why your serial Port drivers won't install there are a handful of

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other features you might wish to play around with for example you might want to reorder your boot devices or set up

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custom fan control if your board supports it but for the most part you should leave the rest of the stuff in

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here alone especially voltages unless you're sure you know what they do and

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accept the risks for now if you built your own PC it's time to install your

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operating system or if you bought a pre-built it's time to install your

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operating system I mean I mean you don't strictly speaking have to but since so

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many machines come with bloatware pre-installed on them it may actually

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take less time to just load up a fresh one than to sanitize what you've already

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got step one then is to download your OS

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we're going to use Windows 11 as our example but most of this also applies to

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Windows 10 Microsoft provides a free tool to download an ISO that can either

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be saved so you can burn it or used to automatically build a USB installer

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we're going to have that linked Down Below download it grab your USB flash drive and make sure

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that anything you care about on it is backed up cuz this is going to wipe it

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clean go through the prompts the recommended version is almost always

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what you want and choose USB flash drive

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select the drive and it's Off to the Races while you wait for this to finish

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I would strongly recommend downloading your Hardware drivers from the

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manufacturer's websites in particular you are definitely going to want your

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network driver and some systems might also need the storage driver in order to

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get Through the Windows setup process I usually just grab it all cuz storage is

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cheap and I'm not doing anything right now anyway once the Windows flash drive

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is finished unzip the drivers to it I like making a driver's folder with

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individual folders for each driver to keep them easy to find then eject it and

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pop it into your new pc and restart it it should boot right into the installer

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but if it doesn't you should be able to choose the installer from the BIOS or

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through a boot menu which is usually accessible by mashing f8 or F2 12 on the

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bio screen fun fact did you know that you can open a command prompt at any

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time during Windows setup by holding shift and pressing F10 a fun little Pro

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tip is if you do this and then type dis part right at the beginning and hit

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enter Then list disk you can see all the

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drives that are installed on the PC that way if your storage device isn't showing

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up it's a faster way to know and you can quickly reboot the system and

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troubleshoot it and if it is showing up you can type select disk followed by the

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number next to it it and type clean to remove anything from that drive if you

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want to be really sure and you have some time to kill clean all will crawl the

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drive and directly set every single bit to zero which is basically a secure Ras

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though that takes a while especially with higher capacity drives once you're

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done type exit twice hitting enter both times to close the command window then

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proceed through the prompts if you come to the part where you need to select

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where to install Windows and nothing is there it's time to put that storage

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driver to use click load driver then find the folder on the flash drive that

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you unzipped your storage driver to with any luck the driver will pick up your

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drive and you can proceed as normal in some situations by the way Windows does

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a thing and splits your install across two drives most often if one of the

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installed drives has an existing Windows partition on it so if you have an old

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drive that you're planning to copy data from that has an operating system I

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would strongly recommend shutting down the system and removing it until you

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finished the setup process now most people will want to select the

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unallocated space for the drive you want to install Windows on and continue but

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if you only have one drive and you want to separate Windows from your documents

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Games Etc so that you can wipe Windows clean without worry later then you can

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create a new Partition for just that with this button this will steal the

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amount of storage capacity you choose for it from the Windows drive so you'll

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have to make the call on how much to assign to Windows and to your storage

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Drive based on what you expect to need installed on your Windows drive you can

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then click the remaining unallocated space to install Windows to it it'll set

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up everything on its own when you're satisfied click next and make a sandwich

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quickly though because this shouldn't take too long on a modern PC after a

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reboot or two you should see the screen to get connected to the network and

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download updates if nothing comes up here this is where those network drivers

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come in press shift and F10 again then

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Dev management. MSC and hit enter find

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the unknown devices called Ethernet controllers rightclick them and click

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update driver again browse to where you extracted the drivers to your USB drive

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and it should pick them up unfortunately Windows doesn't give you an easy way to

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know which one is which so there might be a bit of trial and error with

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selecting the right driver for each controller if you have more than one or

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if you get bored of this monkey business entirely you can just bring the command

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prompt back up and type UB back/ bypass

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nro and then you can just deal with the network drivers once you hit the desktop

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fun fact this also removes the requirement for an online Microsoft

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account if you're successful installing network drivers however your yellow

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exclamation point should disappear from device manager allowing you to proceed

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that's the end of the hard part so we're just going to mostly skip over the rest

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just noting that we would suggest turning off most of the analytics

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options and oh make sure you take a note of that restore from backup option if

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you did use a Microsoft account you're going to learn what that's for later now

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that you're on the desktop then now what

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00:20:02,120 --> 00:20:09,280
well first order of business is drivers some systems will offer to install them

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automatically using built-in software and some of those let you thankfully

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disable that feature in the BIOS if you don't like software you can't control

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lurking inside your system but more importantly it can also lead to extra

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bloat being installed on your machine for now you should install all the

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drivers you downloaded previously which might take a couple of reboots before

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you get through them all but should be fairly straightforward for most driver

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packages nowadays if all you have is a cab file and an INF file you might have

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to go to the device manager and use that update driver trick that we showed you

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earlier but that shouldn't be a big deal once everything's installed and your

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yellow exclamation marks are gone go ahead and grab Windows updates until

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there aren't anymore then right click the taskbar go to taskbar settings then

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remove search cuz it's pointless and left align the start menu because you

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are a man or lady of culture now you're ready to start getting settled in if if

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you have any Bluetooth devices that you want to connect you can do that through the Bluetooth icon in the system tray

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just click add device choose Bluetooth and make sure that your device is in

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pairing mode it should show up in a few seconds and then all you need to do is

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Select it and follow the instructions on screen some devices will connect right

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away While others may need you to press a button or key in a code to confirm

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once the device is connected it should reconnect automatically every time it's

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turned on if you later pair it with another device though and it no longer

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works with your PC just look for it in the license list click the three dots to

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forget it and go through the pairing process again once you're satisfied

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everything is connected it's time to check your network config Windows has a

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firewall built in to protect your PC from unauthorized access from your

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network but it has two modes that Define how strict it will be the first nowadays

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the default is public which treats all incoming connections with suspicion

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unless you specifically allow an app to accept them this is great for connecting

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to unsecured public Wi-Fi at your favorite coffee shop but if you have a

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home network and you'd like to share files you'll want to change over your connection to private which relaxes

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security to allow connection from your local network you can change this by

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right clicking the network icon in the system tray then clicking network and

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internet settings click on the network connection you want to change then toggle either private or public as

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desired the next thing you'll want to do especially if you're sharing files on

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the network is to set up your power options in the settings app under system

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then power here you can set when your PC goes to sleep when your screens go to

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sleep and how aggressively your PC should try to optimize for performance

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or power using by default Windows will set your PC to

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sleep after 10 minutes but if you're a fan of accessing your PC remotely

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through an app like team viewer parsec or tail scale or sharing files like we

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00:22:37,600 --> 00:22:43,440
mentioned earlier it'll be inaccessible while it's asleep without some very

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specific steps in that case you might want to set your PC to never sleep

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though that does mean you'll be missing out on those sleep power savings you can

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however tune that power draw by searching for edit power plan in the

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start menu and clicking the change Advanced power settings Link in the

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vintage window that pops up there are a bunch of settings here ranging from when

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to turn off spinning hard disks and how many power saving features are enabled

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for your Wi-Fi USB and PCI Express devices as well as the ability to set

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the minimum and maximum performance of your CPU these options can also be

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useful for troubleshooting things like periodic dropouts and disconnections for

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example if your USB cable is good and the port is good try turning off USB

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selective suspend or if your Wi-Fi is unreliable you can try setting it to

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maximum performance now that your devices and core settings are set up you

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00:23:26,320 --> 00:23:31,760
want to tweak some of the more common user settings for example most Gamers

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00:23:30,120 --> 00:23:35,240
don't like Mouse acceleration and the easiest way to find this is by typing

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Mouse in the start menu search and then selecting change the mouse pointer

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00:23:36,720 --> 00:23:42,919
display or speed in this window click pointer options then uncheck enhance

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pointer Precision if it's enabled you should generally leave the cursor speed

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where it is and use DPI switching that's built into your mouse or Mouse software

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for that instead you can change the other options here to taste or lack

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00:23:51,760 --> 00:23:57,600
there of but for now just hit okay it's a good idea at this point to

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set up some File Explorer settings by hitting these dots here and opening up

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the options window here among other things we can choose whether to see the

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00:24:03,640 --> 00:24:10,799
default home view with recent documents or the this PC view where only drives

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00:24:08,760 --> 00:24:14,440
attached to the system are shown if you'd like to avoid getting duped by the

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00:24:12,520 --> 00:24:19,360
way like when we had our Channel hacked recently you should then go to view and

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00:24:17,159 --> 00:24:24,880
uncheck hide extensions for known file types I will never understand why this

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00:24:22,720 --> 00:24:28,600
is enabled by default there are some other options in here like showing

355
00:24:26,600 --> 00:24:32,559
hidden files uh restoring previous Windows when restarting and so on and so

356
00:24:30,720 --> 00:24:36,919
forth so go ahead and modify to suit your tastes or click on restore defaults

357
00:24:35,360 --> 00:24:40,039
if you can't find that one option that you changed that you ended up not liking

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one more thing you'll notice in this window is the apply to folders button

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00:24:42,600 --> 00:24:49,120
what's that do well if you rightclick empty space in an Explorer window you're

360
00:24:47,120 --> 00:24:52,840
going to see a view option with a bunch of different layouts here's what each of

361
00:24:51,000 --> 00:24:57,480
them looks like and here's the available columns to sort with the details view

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00:24:55,520 --> 00:25:01,960
regardless of the view you can sort or group Group by these criteria grouping

363
00:24:59,720 --> 00:25:06,120
by date by the way is a great way to sort your downloads and your photos if

364
00:25:04,440 --> 00:25:10,279
you get it set up just right and you want to use that layout as the default

365
00:25:07,880 --> 00:25:15,000
for all folders on your PC that's what the apply to folders button does if you

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00:25:12,760 --> 00:25:19,960
want a specific folder to show large icons or thumbnails you can set it

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00:25:17,480 --> 00:25:23,960
separately which is pretty neat right and don't worry if you mess something up

368
00:25:21,880 --> 00:25:28,200
the reset folders button is always there to help you speaking of folders did you

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00:25:26,279 --> 00:25:32,559
know you can change the location of these main folders here just right click

370
00:25:30,640 --> 00:25:36,520
on them click properties and then look at the location tab click move and

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00:25:35,120 --> 00:25:41,120
you'll be able to choose a new spot for them it doesn't work very well with one

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00:25:38,840 --> 00:25:44,360
drive but if you've got a separate drive or a partition that you'd like to use

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00:25:42,600 --> 00:25:49,600
for your files while keeping Windows separate this is for you when you click

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00:25:47,559 --> 00:25:53,520
okay it'll even ask if it should move any existing files over to the new

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00:25:51,360 --> 00:25:58,120
location which is super handy if you're doing this on a system that you've

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00:25:54,720 --> 00:25:59,440
already kind of moved into of course

377
00:25:58,120 --> 00:26:03,520
there's a more fundamental way to personalize your PC if you rightclick

378
00:26:01,480 --> 00:26:07,520
the desktop and click personalization you'll find options to change the

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00:26:04,919 --> 00:26:11,279
background colors and more you can even have a group of background pictures that

380
00:26:09,240 --> 00:26:15,960
will change periodically if you use slideshow under colors you can choose

381
00:26:13,640 --> 00:26:20,279
whether you're on the light or dark side enable or disable the mic transparency

382
00:26:18,200 --> 00:26:23,080
effect on some Windows and manually select an accent color if you don't like

383
00:26:21,880 --> 00:26:27,679
what Windows chose to match your background oh and you can choose whether

384
00:26:25,840 --> 00:26:33,200
it should apply to the taskbar and to Windows too a special note here is the

385
00:26:30,640 --> 00:26:37,080
contrast themes section this can be really helpful for people with visual

386
00:26:34,760 --> 00:26:41,520
impairments or just to look cool if you dig the aesthetic because it applies

387
00:26:39,360 --> 00:26:45,200
everywhere and you can edit the colors that it selects yourself there's some

388
00:26:43,679 --> 00:26:49,240
other useful stuff in the accessibility section of the settings app too for

389
00:26:47,039 --> 00:26:53,240
example you can make scroll bars always show if you hate the autohide stick you

390
00:26:51,440 --> 00:26:57,760
can turn off Windows animations for faster navigation you can change the

391
00:26:55,360 --> 00:27:00,960
size and style of your cursor and importantly for people who don't use

392
00:26:59,120 --> 00:27:05,559
them you can disable the keyboard shortcuts for sticky keys and filter

393
00:27:03,159 --> 00:27:10,080
Keys oh that toggle Keys function can be helpful too it plays a beep whenever you

394
00:27:07,760 --> 00:27:14,039
enable caps lock num lock or scroll lock so you don't have to look down at your

395
00:27:11,240 --> 00:27:18,640
keyboard to see if they're on a common problem for monitors is that either HDR

396
00:27:16,640 --> 00:27:23,559
or high refresh rate aren't set up correctly by default even though your

397
00:27:20,960 --> 00:27:27,159
display supports it you can fix that by right clicking on the desktop and

398
00:27:24,840 --> 00:27:30,679
clicking display settings HDR settings can be found in the brightness and color

399
00:27:28,679 --> 00:27:36,200
section and clicking on it gives you the option to enable HDR as well as Auto HDR

400
00:27:33,799 --> 00:27:41,960
which will cause non-HDR games to pretend their HDR with um honestly mixed

401
00:27:39,360 --> 00:27:46,840
results you can also adjust how SDR content will appear when you're in HDR

402
00:27:44,039 --> 00:27:51,799
mode using this slider which will also affect the brightness of the desktop if

403
00:27:48,960 --> 00:27:56,159
you have multiple HDR monitors congrats you fancy pants you uh you can adjust

404
00:27:53,799 --> 00:27:59,440
them independently of each other also HDR or not if you you have multiple

405
00:27:58,120 --> 00:28:03,120
monitors and they're not in the right order and you haven't already fixed it

406
00:28:01,519 --> 00:28:07,000
yourself because of how infuriating it was you can drag them around in the

407
00:28:05,200 --> 00:28:11,720
display settings window like this and even rotate them if you like having one

408
00:28:08,880 --> 00:28:16,159
in portrait or even one upside down using the display orientation drop down

409
00:28:14,200 --> 00:28:19,559
you can see which is which by using the identify button to make this a bit

410
00:28:17,640 --> 00:28:24,440
easier and you can choose which one is your main display so the one with the

411
00:28:21,519 --> 00:28:28,120
system tray using this checkbox here one little Pro tip by the way is that if

412
00:28:25,880 --> 00:28:32,640
your cursor jumps As you move between the displays you can tweak the alignment

413
00:28:30,360 --> 00:28:35,559
in this menu like so if your monitors are different sizes and resolutions

414
00:28:34,399 --> 00:28:39,720
you're not going to be able to get it absolutely perfect but it'll at least

415
00:28:37,399 --> 00:28:43,760
help smooth things a little bit for refresh rate you're going to need to

416
00:28:41,000 --> 00:28:47,120
scroll down to Advanced display from here you can choose each of your

417
00:28:45,000 --> 00:28:51,840
monitors individually up top and then select the refresh rate down below now

418
00:28:49,399 --> 00:28:56,840
Windows is usually okay about selecting refresh rates but overclocked monitors

419
00:28:54,720 --> 00:29:01,679
including monitors with overclock functions right out of the box will

420
00:28:59,039 --> 00:29:06,679
often report the non overclocked refresh rate as the best one and that is just

421
00:29:04,279 --> 00:29:10,480
factually incorrect so if you still don't see your refresh rate you might

422
00:29:08,360 --> 00:29:16,000
need to use your GPU's Configuration utility or try a different cable another

423
00:29:13,799 --> 00:29:20,200
thing Windows guesses at sometimes with comically bad results is the size that

424
00:29:18,600 --> 00:29:24,600
you might prefer for your Windows and for your text if you want things larger

425
00:29:22,440 --> 00:29:29,279
or smaller just look for scale about halfway down the display settings window

426
00:29:26,679 --> 00:29:33,080
a 20 7 in 4k monitor will typically be set to

427
00:29:30,320 --> 00:29:37,519
150% which is roughly equivalent to how big things would look if it were

428
00:29:34,799 --> 00:29:43,440
1440p if you were to set that 4K display to 200% it would look like if it was

429
00:29:40,080 --> 00:29:45,640
1080p at that size just sharper and so

430
00:29:43,440 --> 00:29:48,960
on and so forth if you've got multiple monitors you can select each one

431
00:29:47,320 --> 00:29:54,240
independently at the top of the window and then choose different scales so for

432
00:29:50,960 --> 00:29:57,360
example 100% for a 1080p gaming Monitor

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00:29:54,240 --> 00:29:59,279
and 200% for a secondary 4K content

434
00:29:57,360 --> 00:30:02,679
consumption monitor could make things on screen appear to be the same size

435
00:30:01,440 --> 00:30:07,679
assuming that they're the same size physically you're going to have to experiment with it a little bit and see

436
00:30:05,559 --> 00:30:11,840
what you like and it's worth noting that you might have to log out and log back

437
00:30:09,519 --> 00:30:15,440
in for it to take effect in every app rather not enter your password again

438
00:30:14,039 --> 00:30:20,080
well good news if you're using a Microsoft account you can enable Windows

439
00:30:17,320 --> 00:30:24,480
hello what's it do it enables you to use your fingerprint a pin or your face with

440
00:30:22,200 --> 00:30:29,159
a compatible camera to log in without your password why would you do that

441
00:30:26,960 --> 00:30:34,399
first forgetting your password sucks and getting locked out of your PC sucks more

442
00:30:31,559 --> 00:30:38,600
second it can actually be more secure because typing out your password means a

443
00:30:36,320 --> 00:30:42,840
key logger or a particularly nosy housemate might be able to read your

444
00:30:40,440 --> 00:30:46,519
keystrokes this way Windows hello makes it so someone gaining access to your PC

445
00:30:44,600 --> 00:30:51,720
doesn't also gain access to your Microsoft account to secure your PC even

446
00:30:49,399 --> 00:30:56,360
better than a password alone Ever Could you can use bit Locker bit Locker

447
00:30:53,960 --> 00:31:00,480
encrypts your entire drive and while by default it will only protect against

448
00:30:58,000 --> 00:31:05,639
someone cloning or removing your storage device you can optionally lock it down

449
00:31:03,000 --> 00:31:10,399
with a pin a password or USB flash drive key that's required before your PC ever

450
00:31:08,200 --> 00:31:13,799
gets to the login screen it's best to enable bit Locker shortly after you

451
00:31:12,120 --> 00:31:17,679
install Windows so the encryption doesn't take forever but once it's

452
00:31:15,720 --> 00:31:22,960
encrypted it's super fast to encrypt and decrypt on the fly on Modern Hardware

453
00:31:20,480 --> 00:31:28,279
your apps will barely even notice speaking of apps how do you install them

454
00:31:25,679 --> 00:31:32,440
well you could go every website and download the installers individually

455
00:31:30,000 --> 00:31:37,200
like some kind of cave person but you could also use tools to make things

456
00:31:34,399 --> 00:31:41,919
simpler a classic is Nite which lets you batch download and install a wide

457
00:31:39,000 --> 00:31:45,559
variety of apps in one shot it's a huge timesaver here's some of the stuff that

458
00:31:43,799 --> 00:31:50,159
we might select for ourselves for a new install just one pro tip here please

459
00:31:48,240 --> 00:31:54,639
don't install multiple anti-malware Shields if you value your sanity or your

460
00:31:52,320 --> 00:31:58,279
performance one is fine though there are some other great options for managing

461
00:31:56,120 --> 00:32:01,600
software too one of which is to use the Microsoft store and I know I know before

462
00:32:00,000 --> 00:32:05,279
you say it I know it's loaded with crapware and requires a Microsoft

463
00:32:03,320 --> 00:32:09,279
account but there are plenty of normal apps on there including a lot of the

464
00:32:06,960 --> 00:32:12,639
ones installed By Nite and as a bonus they're updated automatically along with

465
00:32:11,039 --> 00:32:16,320
all your other store apps so you don't need to keep on top of app updates

466
00:32:14,480 --> 00:32:19,320
individually here's a bunch of our commonly installed apps that are

467
00:32:17,559 --> 00:32:22,480
available on the Microsoft store another bonus is that they're automatically

468
00:32:20,799 --> 00:32:27,240
redownloaded if you have to reinstall which is pretty sick if you have more

469
00:32:25,200 --> 00:32:30,480
selective taste in software or you just want to install everything in one place

470
00:32:29,200 --> 00:32:34,200
you can make use of a little known Windows feature called wind get we

471
00:32:32,600 --> 00:32:37,919
brought this up previously along with a thirdparty alternative chocy but with

472
00:32:36,600 --> 00:32:41,720
either of them you can search for the software you want copy the exact name

473
00:32:40,080 --> 00:32:46,360
and shove that into a batch file with commands to install or update them that

474
00:32:43,960 --> 00:32:49,799
can be a little tedious to maintain but the upside is you can keep that batch

475
00:32:47,960 --> 00:32:52,720
file on a flash drive or cloud storage so the next time you need to install

476
00:32:51,080 --> 00:32:56,600
Windows you can get back up and running extremely quickly and like with the

477
00:32:54,720 --> 00:33:01,159
Microsoft store you can schedule it to automatic check for updates for you

478
00:32:58,679 --> 00:33:05,480
steam is a special boy though it's like an app store all on its own once

479
00:33:03,440 --> 00:33:09,240
installed you've got steam Library folders that contain anything that you

480
00:33:07,279 --> 00:33:12,519
download to them and if you have a separate drive that you'd like to use

481
00:33:11,080 --> 00:33:16,519
instead of your Windows Drive whether it's a partition or a physical one

482
00:33:14,559 --> 00:33:21,639
you'll need to go to steam settings then storage click the plus next to your C

483
00:33:18,960 --> 00:33:25,679
drive select your other drive then click add it's going to show up right next to

484
00:33:23,440 --> 00:33:30,000
your C drive click the three dots and select make default to make sure that

485
00:33:27,639 --> 00:33:34,880
steam install software to that drive instead of your main one by default then

486
00:33:32,440 --> 00:33:39,600
you're off to the races which is great and all I hear you say but I've got

487
00:33:37,120 --> 00:33:45,000
these peripheral things and my RGB is out of control what do I do well many

488
00:33:42,840 --> 00:33:49,399
peripherals these days do come with driver software but if you want my

489
00:33:47,320 --> 00:33:54,320
humble opinion you should be asking yourself if you really need it before

490
00:33:52,080 --> 00:33:59,159
you click that download button even the most reputable vendor software can be

491
00:33:56,440 --> 00:34:02,600
very re resource intensive and if you're not married to a single brand for all

492
00:34:00,760 --> 00:34:06,679
your peripherals you could end up with three or four different programs just to

493
00:34:05,120 --> 00:34:12,119
control your devices but okay if you've got to have

494
00:34:09,399 --> 00:34:16,520
them what you can do to help with this is to install them then disable them

495
00:34:14,720 --> 00:34:21,079
from starting automatically using task manager built-in startup item section

496
00:34:19,000 --> 00:34:24,800
just fire up task manager there's a few different ways to do this listed here

497
00:34:23,119 --> 00:34:29,480
but the pro mov is of course control shift escape and then with this method

498
00:34:26,960 --> 00:34:33,480
method you can for example set up your mouse DPI switches and all of your

499
00:34:31,480 --> 00:34:37,679
lighting save it to the mouse's onboard memory then close the software for

500
00:34:35,520 --> 00:34:41,440
maximum gaming performance and only run it when it's necessary to make your

501
00:34:39,119 --> 00:34:45,119
stuff work it's actually a good idea by the way to check this list from time to

502
00:34:43,240 --> 00:34:49,200
time and disable anything that you don't want or need the same goes for companion

503
00:34:47,839 --> 00:34:53,639
software that's installed by your Hardware drivers this stuff can add up

504
00:34:51,679 --> 00:34:57,800
I'm talking sound control panels temperature monitors I mean the list

505
00:34:55,440 --> 00:35:02,880
goes on and let's be real they're usually not very polished despite the

506
00:35:00,079 --> 00:35:07,760
alleged R&D budgets of these companies so maybe try some third party software

507
00:35:05,000 --> 00:35:13,040
like the peace equalizer APO goey or Hardware info instead which can give you

508
00:35:10,480 --> 00:35:17,040
much greater granularity and aren't tied to specific Hardware oh since we're on

509
00:35:15,000 --> 00:35:21,200
the subject by the way Hardware info is a great tool for double-checking that

510
00:35:19,160 --> 00:35:24,800
all your devices are actually showing up and for making sure that you didn't make

511
00:35:23,200 --> 00:35:30,079
any mistakes while you were installing your cooler a simple combination stress

512
00:35:27,680 --> 00:35:34,440
test like cinch and furmark while monitoring your CPU and GPU core

513
00:35:31,960 --> 00:35:39,000
temperatures will quickly reveal any critical errors in your build hopefully

514
00:35:36,680 --> 00:35:46,760
before they become a long-term problem anything under 90° here is probably fine

515
00:35:43,440 --> 00:35:48,560
but we'd like to see 70 to 80 though of

516
00:35:46,760 --> 00:35:54,680
course there are exceptions like some high performance CPUs for example are

517
00:35:50,839 --> 00:35:56,920
going to Target 90 to 100° or more

518
00:35:54,680 --> 00:36:02,119
whether you like it or not speaking of like it or not

519
00:35:58,800 --> 00:36:04,760
RGB it's there and I think the one thing

520
00:36:02,119 --> 00:36:09,839
we can all agree on love it or hate it is that the Control software is a CPU

521
00:36:07,119 --> 00:36:15,880
hog for best performance then I would recommend leaving that RGB alone either

522
00:36:12,440 --> 00:36:17,839
rainbow bar or off but if you must

523
00:36:15,880 --> 00:36:22,160
adjust it there are alternatives to the many vendor specific RGB control apps

524
00:36:19,960 --> 00:36:26,760
that are out there and Windows 11 even recently got control for this albeit

525
00:36:24,359 --> 00:36:30,640
with limited compatibility as of writing but if you want to try and consolidate

526
00:36:28,040 --> 00:36:36,680
your RGB into a single app just try open RGB or signal RGB open RGB tends to be

527
00:36:34,079 --> 00:36:41,160
lighter but less flashy while signal RGB is more capable but will make your CPU

528
00:36:39,040 --> 00:36:46,720
work for it like the others will like we had to work hard for this segue to our

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530
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542
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and you don't have a PC yet maybe go check out how to build a PC the last

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guide you'll ever need it really is the last guide you'll ever need so you can

544
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