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So you want to print fast eh? Well I have a printer for you. And unlike most of the stuff

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these guys put into my grubby little hands, this one won't actually break your bank account.

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Thanks to Elegoo for sponsoring today's video. They've sent us the Neptune 4 Pro.

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This 3D printer is quite exciting and has a lot of, I missed, a lot of really cool features for

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the price point and hopefully it actually performs well too. Oh yeah, this is the first thing that

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I'm really excited about. This quad fan layer part cooling thing that they stick on the back

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of the hotend assembly. That's really exciting. I haven't seen that for a long time. And let's see

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we've got the Z axis assembly. Morphome comes with a touchscreen with controls for setting all your

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print settings and it even displays a little 3D model of what you're going to print, which is

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kind of cool. They pack the hotend assembly separately. Look at this thing. This hotend can

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go to 300 degrees. So they've included two of these 40-50 fans on each side, I guess to kind of

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keep it from exploding. It also looks like it has a touchless homing sensor too, which is kind of

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cool. Can we take this front off? Oh yes we can. Yeah, so this is their new extruder motor. It looks

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like they've got a pancake stepper in there and a dual gear direct drive filament path, which is

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really nice too. Looks like there's a teeny tiny fan in here too for, you know, layer cooling,

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even though I'm not sure we're going to need it with those four giant ones on the back. And

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lastly, it looks like they've also included a little light in there, which is super nice. The

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one I have at home, I just kind of point a lamp at the bed and it's not quite as nice as having a

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light directly on your print. I kind of like that this is just kind of, you know, no screws,

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just fits on there. We'll see if that actually stays on. And last thing in here, I guess, is the X

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and Y assembly. There we go. This looks really well built. We've got a nice tensioning thing right

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there. And the favorite thing that I just noticed is it has a dedicated Ethernet port. So this one

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actually supports a LAN with Ethernet, which is great. Power over here. Nice little small

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stepper there. What else we got? Oh yeah, these rubber feet are pretty juicy. They're firm, but

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not too firm. Got some give to them, which is great. Power supply here all neatly in a package.

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And the control board seems to be here, which is also in a nice little package too.

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Screws are easily accessible. They've given a full breakdown on the online manual. One thing that I

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do notice on some of these cheaper printers is the bed, you know, heating cables are not well

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supported. This is really nice and sturdy. This is a directly attached plastic thing. So I don't

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expect any movement from there. The motion platform for the bottom here is kind of interesting. We

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have two of these precision ground rods right in the center here. And then there's a couple little

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V wheels, which run against them. That feels really nice and smooth. The bed is a magnetic spring

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steel sheet with PEI coating, it seems. Oh, it doesn't have any of the stops at the back. I don't

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always like that, but that's not the end of the world. So look at this gantry.

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Now they've gone with the V wheel setup again, which I often don't like. Wow, look at that.

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It's got a nice anodized finish with some screen printing on it, it seems. Yeah, this V wheel assembly

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system is not my favorite. They're hard to calibrate and the wheels wear down eventually and they're

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just kind of like a little bit confusing in that regard. But it looks like the X axis is on these

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precision rails again, which is kind of nice. Everything's really kind of like built in and

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it feels like a complete product. Most 3D printers these days kind of feel like, I don't know, they

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were slapped together by someone at home. This feels like, you know, they've covered all of the

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screws with little bits of plastic and everything kind of has that fit and finish that tells me

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it's a nice piece of gear rather than just sort of like a toy. Another cool feature that I see here

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is it's dual motor drive. So we have two Z axis motors, which will spin at the same time,

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but the top of them are connected with a tooth belt. I'm not sure I've seen that before. That's

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kind of interesting too. So you have less of a chance of, you know, tram problems when the bed is

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here and your X axis or your nozzle is going like this. I mean, look at all this other stuff. Oh,

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it's on the floor. All this other stuff. We've got a full tool kit. We've got a USB, got some sample

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plastic detector switch. They even give us some like clippers. There's everything in here, spare

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bit of PTFE tube, which I guess will go into the hotend top. The hotend says it will go 300

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degrees. I hope that it's not PTFE lined. Otherwise you die of neurotoxin poisoning. These don't

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have any markings on them, but that does look like a spare nozzle. It seems to be a little bit

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longer than the standard E3D. I think it might just be a longer melt zone, especially for 300 degrees.

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They've even included an Ethernet cable. This is ridiculous. I guess now the real question

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is can I put it together without looking at the instructions? A lot of this style can often suffer

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with excantry wobble, and so you kind of have to brace them, but this feels really in there. It does

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have, I always say, med-besh leveling, so I think I'm just going to call it that in future. But model

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that we have here for kind of sampling is only 36 points, but the consumer one will do, which is

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121, so it'll do 11 by 11 of individual points, which is great. We've got these four corner knobs

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over here, and they're giant, and they even say which way goes up and down, which is awesome.

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I always struggle with that because you're kind of above it, but when you tighten it,

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it goes the wrong way, and so it says right on them which way they go, and they've also used

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these really tight coil springs. My understanding is that these springs are from plastic injection

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molding machines. I use these on my printer at home, and they were the best upgrade that I've

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ever put on it because I never have to like level the bed. I don't have mesh bed living on mine,

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and I just never touch it because these springs are like, they're really sturdy and quite strong,

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so that's awesome. I love that. What next? I don't know. Manual. This is tight.

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Cable routings here interfering slightly. Hopefully that's not my problem. Instructions are

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not the best, but I've seen worse. Yeah, that feels like it's seated on something, which is nice.

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This is probably like a locator of some kind. That feels really sturdy now. Like, wow, okay,

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really sturdy. So it's not a toolless shroud, but it is a two screw shroud. So we've got three

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little holes here that are tapped for us, which is nice. Everything seems to be going into metal,

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which is really kind of cool to see. I mean, this is obviously a plastic injection molded part,

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but the screws are going into metal. There's heatset inserts embedded directly into the

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hotend assembly, which is nice. This isn't a cheap printer, but it's a cheap printer, and

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I don't know how they do that. I think maybe they have the manufacturing capability to like

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release a printer and just go full bore into supermass production, make 200 billion of them,

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and then they cost nothing each. But I don't understand how some of these companies can make

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money with a product like prices competitively. Now we have the screen. How does this go?

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Okay, cool. It's just magnets on. Every single step has its own individually labeled bag,

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which is great. There's some T nuts here. These are very irritating. I hate T nuts. I think

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for a change in this instance, it's actually a welcome thing, because now I have the choice

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of where to put this on the top rail. So good idea, good design choice. And then we have this

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guy who just screws in there. And now I know what this is. This is the filament run out sensor.

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Another thing I was not expecting to be included in this printer. That's kind of awesome. So yeah,

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this thing, you just stuff your filament through it, and then it makes sure that you still have

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filament and can tell the printer that you don't. Now I think it's time for cables. So this one comes

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up, and then it goes like that. And then it goes through here, something like that. Yeah. So this

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bracket we installed here, I think is for the cable to sit in. Maybe it doesn't feel like it's

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wide enough. I don't know what the rest of these do. And none of them are labeled. I mean, X is

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labeled, and also X is labeled. So we have the X X is micro switch, and then the X axis stepper.

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Let's get that powered in. Oh man, we're getting so close now. There's a cable plug too.

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Okay, I don't care. Should we see if it actually does make plastic squirt everywhere?

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Ayo. Oh, I have it in 230 mode. Hopefully I didn't immediately destroy the printer

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by having it set to the wrong voltage. One thing that I'm immediately super happy about is the

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responsiveness of this. I mean, you even see this in cars and stuff where you like hit a button,

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and then like a second later, the manual change, this one's boop, and then we're here.

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You know, it feels more premium, and it feels more responsive when it's snappy like that. And I see

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no reason why any interface from any manufacturer can't have this kind of snappiness. I'm already into

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this like detachable thing, because now I can stand over here and like talk to you.

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Language, temperature settings, light controls. Yeah, that's right. It's got two lights in it,

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which is pretty exciting. We have the headlight, which is right over top. And then we have the

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observation light, which is that little light that we saw in there. That's a little bit anemic,

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but when it's like right next to your print, I think that's totally perfect. So we have fan control.

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Oh, she blows.

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So I think I'm a little disappointed because the fans at the back here are...

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Why is it you turn it on and then... Oh, okay. I see. I'm happy again. That's kind of nice. I mean,

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I'm not as happy as I would like to be, but the Layer Fan is now one single control. So I think

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that simplifies a lot of the G-code things like that. So you're not managing two types of Layer

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Fans, but it's not an on and off switch. You have to do manually. The on and off switch here

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connects the two Layer Fans together. So you can either have both of them or manually turn off one

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of them, which is better than the alternative that I thought it was. They basically just like

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glued a switched fan to the back, which they didn't, which is cool. That is... It's whisper quiet!

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You know, for how beefy all of these fans are, we expected them to move a bit more air.

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God, I like this interface. It's nice. Will it let me move it without homing it?

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Pulls it away, brings it over. Nice, quiet stepper motors. And let's do that Z. Z, please.

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All right, here we go. I just threw a little test print on this included USB stick,

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and there's the USB at the front. We also have USB-C, and then we also have an SD card slot.

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So you get like everything. You get Ethernet and all the accoutrements. No Wi-Fi at least. I don't

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think I have a problem with that. I want Ethernet anyway rather than Wi-Fi. We've got some models

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in here. Oh wow, look at that. Beautiful little display of it. And is it this one? That's the one

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I wanted to print. Okay, let's confirm that and see what it does. The filament are about to run out.

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I mean, okay, I haven't done it yet.

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Elegoo also sent us over some filament. We've got PLA Plus, which is kind of a newer material

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to the scene, which is pretty sweet. And this is called Rapid PLA Plus. So this machine is rated

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to 500 millimeters a second, which is kind of too good to be true on a v-wheel Cartesian thing,

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you know, with stepper motors. That's kind of insane. I don't know if that means that 500 millimeters

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a second for movements, or if that's printing speed. They're recommending 250 millimeters

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a second printing speed, which is ridiculous as well. These filaments will claim that they can

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be printed up to 600 millimeters a second, which is kind of a lofty claim, especially for a printer

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like this. Even on some other printers that can print that fast, they're really limited by the

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volumetric flow rate of the plastic itself. So seeing that there's like a special Rapid PLA

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specifically designed for printing fast might actually make this possible. I also have some

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just other PLA that I found laying in the warehouse, and that may print it differently.

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Because if they've got special plastics specifically designed for fast printing,

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then why can't any printer do that, I guess? And I'm going to plug in the screaming computer again.

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Unless that's the computer. Oops. Okay. I didn't destroy the printer by pulling out the

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brain of it in the middle of it trying to do things. I've just asked it to do a full automatic

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cycle, which is a lot nicer than going through all the points and like doing fueler gauges and stuff

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like that. But you're kind of supposed to set the original zero because of the hot end nozzle offset,

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because it's not using a direct through nozzle probe. We'll see if we can adjust that z-height

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for the first layer while it's printing. They've included an interesting feature. I think

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some other brands are trying to introduce zoning heaters where each little tiny section of the

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print bed can heat up individually. What they seem to have done is like two. So you have a middle

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section, which is maybe about this big, about 125 ml, and that'll heat up with about 100 watts of

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power. Or you can set to 250 watts, which is just the whole bed. So it's two zone, but it's kind of

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nice that, you know, it might be faster to heat up the center if you're just working in the center.

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Why am I heating up the whole thing? I don't know if that's going to affect any warping or stuff like

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that. It looks like the whole thing is on like a five or six mil sheet of aluminum. So that's like,

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it's probably, it's probably going to be okay. It might be okay. I don't know. My main concern is that

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this hot end assembly is quite heavy and there's a lot of stuff in it. I'm not sure how it's going

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to be able to move it that quickly without like it ripping itself apart. One thing that I forgot

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that I actually had to not have to do is calibrate the tension of these V-wheels. They seem to have

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come factory calibrated, which is great. I didn't even think about doing that. I think that's kind

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of why I'm really happy that they've like physically joined the two Z-axis motors together. Setting the

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temperature is really nice and easy. Instead of having like up and down numbers, you kind of just

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have like a preset or you can tap on the number and then type it in. See if I can stop it. Oh,

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that's really powerful. Holy crap. So this is probably their new direct drive extruder. And if

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you're printing, oh yeah, there you go. I've used two hands to like stop that. If you're printing really

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fast, some of the issues is you get a lot of back pressure. And so having a nice direct drive extruder

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to be able to like really force the filament through the nozzle is going to be like

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super important. So I'm just looking at the way that the filament's coming out of the nozzle.

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There's a couple things that you can look for when you have like a new nozzle and to make

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sure that nothing's clogged and just to kind of gauge the quality of the melt zone. Like it's coming

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out very, very straight. Sometimes if there's a little bit of something in the end of the nozzle,

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twist slightly, and then come back to center as it droops. But this is, this is looking good.

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Let me just, can I do it on the fly? Layer adjustment? Yeah, Jesus Christ. Okay, look at that.

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One, two, three, four, five. Come on, squish down. Oh boy.

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Like, can they f***ing see? The hot end assembly really covers a lot of it. Oh, that's loud. I mean,

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we're quick. But are we 250 millimeters a second quick? So we have this really nice little display

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down here on the bottom left, which actually tells you how fast you're printing. So that's 95 meters

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a second, which is doing our bottom layer. So let's take the movement speed up to 175 millimeters

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a second, which is pretty fast. That's ridiculous. How is it doing this? It has three fan settings,

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which is kind of cool. So we have mute, which is what it's at now, normal, and then violent. It's

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now saying it wants to move at 625 millimeters a second. I don't believe that it's actually doing

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that. But oh my God, it's moving. Oh my God. Hey, look, it's done. And it didn't explode,

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which is kind of amazing because we were really pushing the sprinter. I mean, you can see that

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it's got some, it's got some blurby bits. It's got some snot on it. Let's see how it releases.

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And we're off. That was nice. Yeah, we're getting some of that under extrusion, I think, on the super

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fast rapids, just as it's accelerating out, which is kind of interesting. But I mean, it was really

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ripping it around. And what's interesting is the interior faces are all pretty okay, except for

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this little lump right there. I wanted to do this print because it was kind of small and had a bunch

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of different types of areas. We had some really long sweeping curves and like some more fiddly stuff.

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This section right here, where I think the system automatically slowed down to like,

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you know, get through those tight curves is nearly perfect. Some minor under extrusion

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and some stringing and stuff like that. But I think it was printing these externals at like

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nearly 200. So whatever they're doing with this fast PLA plus is nuts.

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I think it's a little small. Oh, there we go. Yeah, that's fine. That's fine. It survived,

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it didn't break. So yeah, cool. So yeah, the print settings for that, it lives up to its claim.

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I think that's kind of amazing that they can be like, it'll print 500 millimeters a second,

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but you know, you should probably only do 250, but you should only do 250 because the prints

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look like s***, not that it can't do it. Like it didn't fail. If I tried to push a printer this hard

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that wasn't this one, it would just be missing steps the whole time and like

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just destroying itself. But this made it through the entire print, which is kind of incredible.

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Maybe we'll try something a little more conservative. That's maybe still not too

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conservative, but I also want to try non-special Algoo PLA as well. We've got the Ethernet cable

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plugged in now and I have the Clipper firmware loaded up on my web browser. And this is where

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it gets really cool and exciting. Here we have all sorts of really interesting graphs and like

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all sorts of controls. So we don't have to use the touch screen even though it's kind of nice.

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We can also set up a whole bunch of different macros and things like that. Flashlight on.

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I can just home all the accesses from right here, which is great. I use a similar version of this,

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but I use Repitier host. Repitier, I don't quite know how it's pronounced,

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but I don't use a browser source for that. The nice thing about using Clipper firmware,

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we run it in the, we run it in Creator Warehouse for our little Vorons. They're these little teeny

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tiny desktop machines that also print like about the speed, but they're CoreXY machines and they

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are kind of like hand built by the engineering team. It's an open source kit project thing.

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They run a similar style of firmware. This one says Fluid at the top. I don't have a whole lot

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of experience with these types of custom firmwares. I am far more basic than a lot of these other

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people who really want to go fast, but I still have dealt with these before and they're really,

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really powerful. We can also adjust our printer limits set up here directly for 500 millimeters

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a second. So it's got the square corner velocity and accelerations. So like this square corner

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velocity down here is really, really slow. So it's normally printing at like 200, 9500,

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whatever, really fast. And then if it gets to a square corner, because you don't want super

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rounded edges, it'll slow down and like make sure that line is squared properly. Accelerations are

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kind of more like what I assumed, 5000 millimeters per second squared, which is

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pretty good for a Cartesian style printer. The CoreXYs can go a lot faster and this one also has a

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really, really, really heavy hot end assembly. And so swinging that around back and forth is kind

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of where you're seeing those slower accelerations to kind of make it go fast. But you know, the Y-axis

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has more and that's kind of good. We have a, see what else we have here. We've got a console,

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so we can send it like gcode commands just ourselves, which is great. So G1, Z, 10.

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Cool. I think I smushed it into the bed. Nope. Okay, never mind. We're good. GZ, 50.

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So it's in absolute positioning mode, which is great. We also have direct access to jobs,

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so we can upload files to it directly and you can kind of pick whatever you want to go. We even have

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a history in here. We can see that this took, well, it was going to take 42 minutes, which is pretty

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damn good for a part that size without many layers on a Cartesian machine. And then what's

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really cool is we have this 3D graph of our mesh bed leveling output, which is like, I don't know,

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every time I see this, I'm like, I need this on my printer. That is so cool. Having just, this is

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just the nerdiest on the f***ing line. I swear to God. I mean, look at this. It's like this beautiful

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heat map of everything that's wrong with your bed. And then, you know, okay, so this, this X00

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corner, I think it's over here, that's a little bit higher, you know, the deviation is a little bit

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higher. And so that would kind of tell me that I maybe need to turn this knob a little bit. And so

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you can kind of get immediately into, you know, really fine-tuned printing. And this is like

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just firmware. Like, why doesn't every single printer have this kind of interface? So you're,

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you're getting a really solid foundation. And then you're getting an amazing piece of firmware.

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It's just great. Yeah. And for our whole system, we have all the configuration files like, let's,

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let's pop this one open. Yeah. And we've got all our stepper pins and full steps per rotation and,

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you know, the pulse duration and all that sort of good stuff and like

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everything, everything that I want in a printer that I own, I have access to break it as much as I

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want. Do I have the ability to retract the filament on here? Like I want to do a filament change.

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So I don't know if it has a macro for this, but I can certainly have it pull the filament out for me

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now that the hot end is up to temperature. Yeah, that looks good. No, uh, no real concerns with

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that. So let's change this out for the red stuff and we'll print again and start messing with it

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in clipper, which is pretty cool. So I can just start pushing that through. This is also a really

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good test to, to feel like how competent your, your hot end is actually melting plastic is to

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just like push it in. And if you feel like a lot of resistance, then, you know, your melt zone is

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probably not too good. This one feels pretty damn sturdy if I'm being honest. And it seems pretty

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short too, because that color change was not super hard. Let's see how easy it is to start a print

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here. I can, I can see what's on the USB stick exactly. So let's print this. I can edit it.

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What is editing it do? Oh, it's downloading it. Oh, it's just giving me a big thing, a G code. Wow,

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okay. And print. First layer speed is looking nice. We're getting a real time output for

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all of our temperatures and our percentages and our current speed. That's what I love about clippers.

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It tells you how fast you're actually going. This print right now, uh, this operation is 60 millimeters

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a second, which is still pretty fast. My printer at home, I can push to about 30 millimeters a

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second. And that's normal printing speed. This one's doing it on the first layer. Adhesion looks great.

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We noticed no curling on this other one. The texture is great. No elephants footing. Maybe a

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little bit right here, but then I think I started springing up the speed. The reason it's slowing

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down for this edge here is it's actually an overhang. Um, and that would allow it to have

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more time to cool. That sort of thing. And now we're going a bit faster. Man, this is performing

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far better than expectations. My expectations are low, especially for a $300 printer. I think this

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should be everybody's first printer, especially having clipper, because clipper is complicated

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enough that you can break things, but that's not necessarily accessible. If you just want to like

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make a beer holder, but making a beer holder is not worth, you know, $1,200 investment.

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This is God, how's it so cheap? I don't get it. And it's got Ethernet in it. Thanks again to

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Elagu for sponsoring today's video and sending us this printer. They've also released a resin one

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as well, which has a 12k screen, which is kind of amazing. They didn't even know k's could go that

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high. If you want to have a look at their new lineup, head to the link in the description.