WEBVTT

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Boy, my mechanical room is a mess.

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I've never been more proud. A year ago,

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I bought my kids a 3D printer for Christmas, and it was one of my most

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devious parenting maneuvers yet. See, they thought I was giving them the means

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to make toys and fidget gadgets. But

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what I was actually giving them was some motivation to learn a little bit about

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3D printing and 3D modeling, which I hoped would serve as a catalyst to

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getting them a little bit more curious about the technology around them and how

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it actually works. But it has gone so

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far beyond that. I've been selling 3D printed fidgets to classmates. I went to

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the entrepreneur fair last week at school and made 200 bucks, which puts my

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total at 500. Now, even the teachers are

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apparently getting in on the action. Uh, these are apparently super popular with

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the adults. This is your number one seller right now, right? Easily number

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one seller. >> Naturally, when I learned that the storm

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that hit our mechanical room was an entrepreneurial hurricane, the first

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thing I did was bring home some idle 3D printers and the Prussa Core 1 that

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Joseph, I call him Joseph. >> Hm. Have we actually met [laughter]

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>> sent over for evaluation? Unfortunately,

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the second thing I didn't do is organize

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our newly planted print farm. And we

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have learned extremely quickly that scaling up takes more than just

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printers. We have got to fix this. And

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there's no time to lose because next week is round two of the entrepreneur

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fair. And Randy here sold almost all of the inventory that he prepared for the

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first one. Just like Colton's team sold this segue to our sponsor, Meta PCs.

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>> Dad, we're out of red filament again. Okay, we can talk about filament later

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because first there are a lot of things to address here. Some of them are

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obvious at the surface like the total lack of organization of our workspace,

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but some of them are a little deeper, like the destroyed print head on our OG

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machine, this bamboo P1S. >> That wasn't my fault. That was my

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sister's. >> Well, let's start by fixing that. As something of a 3D printing novice,

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hotends are something I don't really know a ton about, and it's a

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surprisingly deep topic. We might need a bit of help. You laid out your

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requirements, and I chose BQ's Panda Revo hotend with a mix of brass and

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obsidian nozzles, and in a variety of nozzle sizes. These are going to help

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you change your nozzles really fast, and Obsidian is great for abrasive

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materials. Your Core 1 doesn't really need this because it's got a pretty good

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system already. You just kind of loosen two screws. >> This sounds amazing. Just one question.

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Who the heck are you? >> Oh, I'm I'm Sean. I uh I worked for a

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couple 3D printer manufacturers. My last job was as an editor at a 3D printing

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publication, and I work here now. You you know me. You drilled me on Star Wars

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a couple days ago. >> Cool. This has been out of commission for almost 2 weeks. What did you guys do

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to it? Like you got a whole bunch of filament on it, and then when you were

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trying to remove it with a torch, you like killed it. >> Yeah, somehow. We melted the temperature

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probe by accident. >> Okay, let's go ahead and throw the new one on. Theoretically, this is as simple

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as just >> [snorts] >> propping it on there and then we're good

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to Oh, wow. Is it really that easy? Wait, are you sure you don't want to put the fan on first?

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>> Yeah, we should probably do that. >> Okay. And we should probably call out

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the precision screwdriver from ltdstore.com. Great for these types of

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jobs. I don't know how he managed to drop the screw cuz it's magnetic, but

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like father like son, I guess. Also, we've got new sizes now. So, we got the

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obsidians in 4 and 6. And we got a brass

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nozzle not just in4, but also 0.25. So,

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if you wanted to print finer stuff on this one, then you could. It'll take

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longer, but if people are willing to pay a little bit more for a finer print,

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then hey, >> who cares? >> Yeah, exactly. Can I see?

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>> Yep. Just needs man strength. Or rather, just needs being willing to force things

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a little bit. It's good. >> I don't want to break the new nozzle.

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>> Yeah, I don't want to break the new nozzle either. These are way more

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expensive than our old ones. The obsidians are like twice the price of a

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brass nozzle. >> How much are they? >> Around $75.

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>> 75 bucks per nozzle. >> Pretty. Wow. >> So, the deal we have with him and the

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girls for that matter is we have no problem encouraging their entrepreneurship. We're willing to

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provide the equipment, but consumables they need to reimburse us for. And I

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haven't figured out where hotends figure into this.

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>> I'm on the side of equipment. >> Yeah, you would be. Oh, now's a good

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time to mention that we got some new desicant that you can put in your AMS. >> Finally got better desicants.

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>> These are the silica gel desicant packs from Wiser Dry and they are

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rechargeable, which means that they'll change color when they're too wet and

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then you can put them in a microwave, a stove, or just your filament dryer to

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recharge them and put them back in. >> That's great. I hate lowquality

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desicants. >> Uh, you're going to want to take these out and you're going to want to open

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that and take out the desicant that's already in there.

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>> Great. And that's probably old. It feels moist. >> Yeah.

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>> Oh, wild. >> This is way more than I need.

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>> Yes. But it's great that you can put these packs in your vacuum sealed bags.

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And that's going to help keep the filament dry while you're storing it.

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What the Sam heck happened here? You left it loaded with red, but you took

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the red spool out. >> Yeah, cuz I needed the red.

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>> I noticed, by the way, that you only comp me for the weight of your finished

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prints. >> Yeah. >> What happens to all this? >> I don't know.

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>> Want to go ahead and fire up a test print? Sure. >> Just don't forget we have a 6 mm nozzle

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in there. Now, other than that, the Obsidians, Obsidians, however you

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pronounce them, they're drop in replacements. There's not going to be a

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preset for Obsidian nozzles. I would stick with E3D's high flow profiles. The

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thing to keep in mind is when you're using a bigger nozzle, you may need more

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heat to make sure that it gets through the entire thing, but there's a pretty

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good uh melt zone on these nozzles. So,

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you should be fine for 6. Now, let's go ahead and print a benchie. Uh oh. After

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calibrating >> 26 minutes.

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>> You know what? That's a perfect time for us to do something about the state of

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this room. Oh, you thought it was just all fun and games upgrading your 3D

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printers today? >> Yeah. >> See, making space for the Prussa Core 1,

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that was no biggie. I just shoved this guy over and then plonked it on there.

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But when logistics offered up these three bamboo X1C's that we retired from

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our print farm at the office in favor of more Prussas,

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there was no plan. Okay. Wait, why am I

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doing this? Kids,

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guess who got a special assignment? >> Me.

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>> Both of you. You're both right. Time to clean this place up. I want all the

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garbage dealt with. And anything that isn't garbage, I would like organized in

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a nice tidy little pile. Why don't we put it in this toolbox that Randy made?

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Okay. >> Okay.

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>> Chop chop. While the kids are working on that, Sean

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and I have a few things to deal with, too. We've got to build this shelf. And

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I've got to get all of my camping stuff out of this storage room.

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And then slide it down.

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If you're going to take the printers out, then what are you going to put in here?

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>> Um, I'm going to put a big battery that keeps our house powered in power

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outages. Oh, >> our test print failed.

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>> Doesn't know what filament to use. >> Oh, you know what? Honestly, that's probably fine. Why don't we just move

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this out first and then we'll do the test print out there. Oh, this is cool.

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Thanks to the power of our magnetic cable management, it's just one cord.

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See? Using our power bar holders like that. Using our arches like that. Good

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stuff. Good stuff. ltstore.com. All right, let's go, boy. Oh, hold on. We're

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not clearing the door. We're like a BC trucker. Little bit of local humor for

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you. This space is not as big as I

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thought. Well, you're going to use the space. What do you think we should do?

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>> Have two just two racks. One here, one there, or whatever. We'll make our best

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effort to line up all the printers on this rack. And then along this wall

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right here and then this shelf, I want you to organize all the filament tools,

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desicant, consumables as best you can.

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Now, before we put any printers onto here, there is something that I wanted

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to do first, and that is put some of this MDF on here.

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All right, shelves are in place. It's time to find out if we can get all three of the X1C's on here. I kind of doubt

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it. >> They're each 15 1/2 in and the shelf is like 46. So, it might be hanging off,

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but it's okay. >> No. >> How do you want to handle the AMS's?

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Would you rather have one printer that can do many colors or more printers that

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can do a handful of colors? >> More printers that can do a handful. >> A man, I was afraid you were going to

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say that. Now, let's just make sure they all fit on the shelf. And a one and a

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two. We're not going to get a third on there, but we >> Not with that attitude.

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>> Oh, did we talk about fumes at all? >> No, we're not yet.

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>> Oh, okay. Do you want to do that? >> Well, we took this out of your mechanical room, which is a separate

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environment from the rest of your house, right? >> Yes. >> Okay. And in here, you're not. So, we're

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going to want to put an air purifier in there. It's not a perfect solution. You shouldn't use engineering grade

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materials or ABS, things that have

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styrene in them. PLA, PETG, they're

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generally considered to be safer. >> Okay. And shout out HouseFresh, who we

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collaborated with a little while ago. I'm gonna go to them and I'm gonna find an air purifier.

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>> See called

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definitely going to fit. >> You know what? You're right. That's a good call. They are [laughter] like

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practically touching each other. Look at this edge. It's like just hanging over

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it. It's perfect. >> Uh let's move the AMS's down to the

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bottom. One of the major challenges for me organizing the space was that it has

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to be children accessible. And he's pretty big now, but she's not. So, we

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can't have her changing spools up here.

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Okay. Hey, that could work. Now everything

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reaches. It's much more organized than before.

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>> Actually, that's that this is way better. So then Oh, dude. No. No. Hold

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on. What? What was I thinking before? What was I thinking before? bud.

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Hello. A boom.

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Oh, yeah. That right there. That's the 3D printing

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space [music] money shot. >> I'm going to start the test print again.

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>> Go for it. Something I noticed. You've been printing with your doors closed,

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right? >> Yeah. >> Okay. Okay, with the Bamboo Lab machines, Bamboo Lab recommends that you

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have the door open and also the top if you're doing best practices, but I would

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at least prop the door open when you're printing with PLA. Otherwise, it might

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get too hot inside for that kind of material and you won't get the best prints you can.

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>> Okay, >> now is a good time to talk about one of the other challenges that we've had

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lately, too. Even on the Core 1, which has been our most reliable for bed

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adhesion, we've had some pretty spectacular print failures. Now, print

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beds are a consumable, but that doesn't

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mean that the ones that we have are bad or broken or anything. They should last

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a very long time. So, to avoid this in

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the future, couple things. Make sure you've calibrated your printer recently.

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These bamboos level themselves with pressure sensors in the bed. Next, we

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need to make sure we're cleaning properly in between prints. Remember how I told you that you could clean them

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with isopropyl alcohol? >> Yeah. >> Okay. Turns out that for the textured

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beds, that's actually not correct. >> Okay. Instead, we want to use a mild

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detergent and water because that'll help us really get into the grooves and make

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sure that we get any oils or any contaminants off them. For smooth beds,

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we just got a bamboo smooth plate. So, you can try this out if you want a

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different texture on the bottom of your prints or if you're having adhesion issues. Isopropyl, totally fine, but you

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never want to use it for these. These are super tac cool plates. These are

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super cool and tack.

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[clears throat] The point is, neither Frey nor I have tried them before. But

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in theory, they actually allow you to print cooler, which can save you heating

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time and cooling time, which is pretty key because another thing that I don't

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think you knew is that pulling parts off of a hot bed can actually cause the part

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to warp. >> So, we don't want to do that. So, now

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we've got a bunch of extra plates. So, what you can do is you can do your print, pull your plate off, print and

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all, throw a clean plate on, and start your next print and wait for it to cool

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down. I didn't know you had to let it cool down. I've been taking it off hot

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in the past. Me neither. >> But hey, I mean, what? We're new to

00:13:06.399 --> 00:13:13.680
this. This is how we learn. >> There are other ways you can improve bed adhesion. You can try running 5 to 10°

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hotter for your first layers. Uh or you could try making sure your auxiliary fan

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is off. Uh finally, there's good oldfashioned glue.

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>> Yeah, regular PVP glue acts as a bonding agent for first layers. Uh, you can use

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like regular Elmer's glue you get from any store, but I like the 3D printing

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specialized liquid stuff because it makes consistent application easy. Glue

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also makes it easier to take your prints off of a build plate because though it's

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an extra bonding layer, it's also a separate layer from that stiffer surface

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of the print bed. It won't stop severe warping, but it will help those tricky

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small first layers and tiny features.

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Plus, with glue, you don't need to clean after every print. I would say clean and

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reapply every 10 prints or so, or just see how a new application works if

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you're having trouble. >> Perfect. Now, it's time to talk about something that bothers me a lot more

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than it bothers my kids. These multifilament AMS systems. They're super

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cool for multiolor printing, but they waste so much filament. The last time

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that I tested X1C printing with an AMS

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on its default settings, I printed 125 g

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model with three different filaments and it wasted over 500 g between the tower

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and the purge. Yeah. Now, fortunately, this is tunable. The first thing we need

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to do is turn on long retraction. This reduces the amount of the previous

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filament that gets left in the hotend during a change. This is as simple as

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ticking this checkbox after enabling developer mode in the preferences. But

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wait, there's more. Teaching tech has a really good guide on reducing purge.

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We're going to have that link down below. But in a nutshell, we're going to be enabling purge into infill, which is

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exactly what it sounds like. And we're also going to be reducing our flushing

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multiplier. This is the big one. See, you might care about the absolute purity

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of your colors. [music] I don't. I'd be fine with, you know,

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redish. So, what we're going to do is instead of

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purging this much flipping filament every time we change a color, we're

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going to set it to.5. That'll cut our waist more or less in half. [music] Uh,

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so you're going to remember how to do all that stuff, right? >> Uh, yeah.

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>> Okay, cool. Because if you minimize your waist, you minimize how much you pay me

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for filming. With that out of the way, I think we're pretty well optimized. The

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mechanical room is clean and this is a way more comfortable workspace,

00:15:32.880 --> 00:15:40.399
especially if you need access to all the printers. To be clear, there is a lot

00:15:38.160 --> 00:15:43.279
more that we could do in the future. I could maybe move my badments and stuff

00:15:41.760 --> 00:15:47.279
and we could have like a queuing system for filament that's pending drying. We

00:15:45.519 --> 00:15:52.320
could maybe get some containers instead of using those inconvenient vacuum bags.

00:15:49.680 --> 00:15:54.880
And automating print removal. That would be incredible. Do you know you can do

00:15:53.440 --> 00:15:59.040
that? I didn't know that >> you can automatically have the print get

00:15:57.360 --> 00:16:03.040
pulled off the bed and then you can have it start another one for like mass

00:16:00.800 --> 00:16:07.759
production. Super cool. There's various options for that. Uh autofarmm 3D is an

00:16:05.759 --> 00:16:11.759
effective one but is a subscription service. OctoPrint's continuous printing

00:16:09.759 --> 00:16:15.680
plugin is a great alternative. Doesn't work with Bamboo Lab, which is part of

00:16:13.680 --> 00:16:20.079
the reason that we uh stopped using these at the office. Once you figure out

00:16:18.079 --> 00:16:22.959
like which hotends you like, we could potentially explore getting some

00:16:21.360 --> 00:16:28.560
different hotends for the carbons as well. So like higher flow or hardened

00:16:26.399 --> 00:16:33.360
nozzles to enable more materials, all that kind of stuff.

00:16:30.959 --> 00:16:37.759
That's cool. Yeah. Don't sound too grateful.

00:16:35.839 --> 00:16:43.120
Just like I'm not going to sound too grateful to our sponsor, Meta PCs. We

00:16:41.199 --> 00:16:46.480
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00:17:24.880 --> 00:17:30.720
enjoyed this video, why not check out the one where I showed off my 3D

00:17:28.160 --> 00:17:34.160
printing setup. Mine kind of sucked, but we collaborated with some other really

00:17:32.480 --> 00:17:37.120
incredible creators who showed off their setups that are a lot