WEBVTT

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Apple silicon is so good that even diehard Windows users are turning to

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Mac. Even the prices are shockingly competitive these days. That is as long

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as you choose the starting at configuration. See, the thing is, when

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it comes to upgrading the base config, Apple quite literally values their

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memory and storage chips higher than gold by weight, which wouldn't be as

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much of a problem if you could just buy it now and then wait for prices to fall

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and upgrade after the fact. But unfortunately, because Apple solders

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these components to the mainboard, even in their desktops, now that is no longer

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possible. Or is it? We'll get to that in a moment. First, I want to acknowledge

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that soldering down components is not inherently bad. For system memory, the

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signal loss from longer traces and especially from passing through a

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connector is so great that particularly

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the GPU and Apple's latest silicon could have its performance significantly

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impacted by using modules. Now, some manufacturers might make different

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choices and they might choose modules over cutting edge performance, but Apple

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didn't, and neither of those choices is wrong. With that said, for storage,

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there is no technical reason that it needs to be soldered. To be clear, I'm

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not saying you could just plunk any PC SSD into your Mac and expect it to work.

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Apple's approach to storage does think differently, with the biggest difference

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being that their storage controller is integrated directly into the CPU rather

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than into the SSD like on this M.2 stick. This offers the advantage of

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hardware level encryption through their secure enclave that prevents the storage

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from being accessed outside of the system it's paired with. But as Apple's

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own designs reveal, nan storage is an order of magnitude slower than RAM and

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there is no performance penalty for mounting it to a modular card as Apple

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tacitly admits by doing just that in the Mac Studio and the latest M4 Mac Mini.

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So why then does Apple solder their storage? One, it's the way they've done

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it since the first iPhone. And habits are just so gosh darn hard to break. And

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two, money. Well, you know what? I'm not

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giving up on my money today. And I'm all about breaking bad habits. And I'm going

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to do it with some help from Colin.

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Colin is the host of Doss Dude 1. We're going to have his channel linked down

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below. And he is master of the dark art

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of upgrading non-upgradeable Macs. Today I'm going to show Lionus here how to

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actually perform these upgrades. And if he does well enough, I'll even let him

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try on one of his own machines himself. It's going to be awesome. Just like this

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Let's get started. Whoa, whoa, whoa. First, we're going to need some tools to

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get this job done. This is quite complicated, as you know. Here we've got

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a hot air station. We need a decent soldering iron, some solder paste,

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solder wick, and miscellaneous stuff like that. Some BGA stencils for the

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nans, this underfill removal tool with its little attachments here. And last

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thing in the list here is a preheater, which just makes uh the job a little bit

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easier. I mean, everything here is something that I could easily obtain for

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myself. You're obviously highly experienced doing this, but is there any

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reason that someone couldn't watch this video, follow the same steps as us, and

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perform the same operation? Certainly, with enough practice, one could

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certainly do that. I'll show everything that's needed to be done here. It does

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take skill. It does take a lot of practice. So, you absolutely absolutely

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need to practice before you attempt something like this. Maybe on something dead. Yes, something dead. Absolutely.

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Cool. We don't have to worry about that, though, because Colin is going to be

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doing our first upgrade on my M2 MacBook

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Air from the 30-day Apple challenge. I specifically ordered this with just 256

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gigs of storage cuz I knew he was going to come help me fix it. And what's even

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better is that the 256 gig configuration

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comes with only a single NAND chip. So,

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when you upgrade the storage, you also upgrade the bandwidth, which is pretty

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sick. Uh, by the way, that doesn't apply to the M3 and newer. They ended up

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backtracking on that whole design decision. So, you know, you actually

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made my life a whole lot more difficult by opting for that 256 gig config. Uh,

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because in addition to having the NAN chip omitted, they also omitted about 50

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components on the board, support components for that second NAN chip that

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I also have to reinstall. Oh, cool. Question for you. How hard is it to get

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your hands on a the NAND for these upgrades and also those support

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components? Yeah. So, the nans are more difficult obviously than the support

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components, but those can be easily purchased off AliExpress. You just have

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to know which ones you need for your specific system. Uh some sellers make it

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a little bit easier by uh going by the systems themselves, but that's not

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common. But the support components can be obtained from any uh parts

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distributor such as Mouser or Digi Key. Mouser and DigiKey aren't exactly known

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for their affordability. Is this going to make more sense than just buying the

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higherend config in the first place? Oh, 100% it will because even at the worst

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case scenario, the upgrade cost is usually about half price, including a

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labor charge, which someone like me would charge if you were to send it in.

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Have you ever used our precision kit before? I have not yet, but I do have

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one that I will be using soon. Okay. Well, I'm not going to bias your first impressions then. I'll let you just do

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your thing. When you take these apart, it's a little bit difficult to get the bottom off, but what I find is if you

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stick a bit in there and kind of just pry it out like this. Oh. Gives you a

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good entry point. And then you can take this and pop the clips. Oh, brilliant. I

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guarantee you we won't include little details like that. But what we might do

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is have an exclusive LMG.gg/flowplane

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where we have the more in-depth step by step of stuff that realistically you can

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follow any guide how to disassemble a MacBook. We'll stay focused on the stuff

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that is unique to the NAND upgrades. Now, we've got uh this shield/ heat sink

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that's on here we have to remove. And that is also held on by some T3s. And

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this shield is kind of a pain to remove. It's very easy to bend. You don't want

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to bend it. And you're quite certain I'm gonna be able to do the second one. Uh,

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you should be able to. The second one, uh, should be a lot easier than this

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one. Oh, I see what you're saying because, you know, I've only ever done

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one BGA replacement operation and the board didn't live. And the guy who

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helped me with it now hates me. That's my track record. Okay. Looking a little

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grim here, but we'll we'll get there. Now, I should note that this thermal

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paste here is special goopy black thermal paste, as you can see. Um, you

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do not want to remove and replace this when you work on these M2 MacBook Airs.

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leave it alone and just reinstall it with the thermal paste already applied.

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There's nothing aftermarket that could be better than it. So, there is one

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product. It's called Carbon Black made by TCRS Circuit up near LA in

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California. He's actually a good friend of mine. If you can get some of that,

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you can replace this. But nothing else that exists is suitable to replace this

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paste. So, if I put a shim and I put

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liquid metal on it, it wouldn't be No, don't don't put liquid metal on this.

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That's an awful awful idea. I did. I'm saying theoretically. theoretically like

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is it the performance that's so good or what's so good about it? When you use

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liquid thermal paste that is only suitable with pressure mounted heat

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sinks. So if they have springs or some sort of pressure that holds them against

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the chip, that is the only case in which you can use a liquid thermal paste. That

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makes sense because this is not a pressure-mounted heat sink. Apple came

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up with their custom-designed uh carbon-based black thermal paste that

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just smooshes out but retains its uh goopiness. It doesn't like thin out like

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liquid paste does, right? And it allows it to maintain contact with the SOC. Now

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is the part where we'll begin the removal process of the original NAN.

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Okay. And I guess now is a good time to point out why it's not possible to do a

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similar upgrade on the memory. You can see here that it is integrated directly

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onto the package. It is technically possible to desolder and replace these

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chips. However, due to the bonding material used uh between these chips and

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the actual SOC itself, you cannot effectively remove those without causing

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damage to both the chips and the SOC. To begin the removal, I actually do it flat

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on the silicone mat. When you use a preheater, you cause a lot of extra risk

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in hitting the components around it. Got it. You want to try to concentrate the

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heat on the end only. So, our preheater is only for when we apply the new one.

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It's for rework and um reinstalling the new chips. Correct. Out of a couple

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dozen pairs of tweezers, you picked this particular set. How do you decide which

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tweezers are good? When you're working with such components as O21's, you want

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very precise tweezers. A lot of times, what I do is I take and try to pick up

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the entire board by one of its components. And the easier you can do

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that, the more precise the tweezers are. To get started here, I'm going to start

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by removing the underfill around the edges of the nand. I'm going to start

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with 280 for this one because uh you have to judge that based on the thermal

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mass of the board. So, since this is a pretty small and thin board, uh, it'll

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have a little bit lower thermal mass than some larger, thicker boards. So,

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this part's not too scary. This isn't scary. We're just going to basically take this excess underfill that's

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squeezed out the edges of the chip and scrape it away. Basically, becomes

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brittle with heat. So, the more you heat it, the easier it will be to remove.

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350. Yeah. So, at 350, you're getting into uh solder melting temperatures,

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which you don't really want at this stage, but sometimes you got to flakes

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off nicely there. This looks like a fancy pants X-acto knife. What is it? It

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is an underfill removal tool designed specifically for what I'm doing. Uh you

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might notice on the board here that there's not really much room to get this

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under here. Yeah. And for this specific board, I like to take away these two

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capacitors. Just remove them temporarily to get room for my tool to slide under

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the chip. I'm starting to become deeply uncomfortable with the fact that it's my

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turn next. Don't worry, yours will be a lot easier than this. What are the odds

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you like brick my thousand computer? Um, since I've practiced enough on dead

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boards, I've never messed one up ever before. Really? Yep. So, this would be

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the first time. This would be the first time if if such a thing were to happen.

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If it were to happen, which it won't. And we're just looking for the solder to turn shiny so that we can tell that it's

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able to be removed. What did we just set it to? 380. 380 for the final removal of

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the chip. And this time, we've got a different blade on our little X-acto

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knife here. And we're just going to slide that under. And what? Just lift it

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off. What I'm going to use this for is sliding it under the chip. And then

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we're going to get it under there and just push it off the board. Okay. So,

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the thing that I just said, but more words.

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A good rule of thumb with this is when you stick this under here, it should

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feel like a cold knife through butter. So, if it's any more difficult than

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that, you're not fully molten under there. That's an expression I've not

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heard before. Here it is. Cold knife through butter time. Woo. Okay. Now, you

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flipped that up really fast. Is there any risk if you didn't have full flow

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that you could like rip a pad off if you were to do that move? Yes, but I made

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sure it was fully, you know, moving before I did that. Got it. So, once it

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was fully loose, I just kind of flipped it up and out of the way. I need to uh

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remove all this underfill. And in order to do that, uh the solder has to be

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molten as well as uh the underfill brittle enough that I can scrape it

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away. And you do these kinds of upgrades on like Steam Decks and basically

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anything that has soldered RAM or storage. Like you said, Steam Decks. I

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mainly do Apple stuff. I do like to work on the Apple stuff. Now, I know that

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Apple has in the past had issues with like hardware pairing of, you know, the

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nan chip and the SOC. Was there any preparation process that we had to do

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before we just ripped this off and put a new nan chip on there? Nope. So, the new

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nans I have are brand new nans that are blank with no firmware on them? And once

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we install them onto this board, the DFU

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restore process will program them appropriately. Very cool. And this can

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just be discarded, I guess, then because no one would want a 256 GB NAN chip.

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Yes, exactly. You asked for this. Now you have it. I need to use that to uh

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hold the board. Pull it out a little bit like that. Mhm. As you can see here,

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there is a bit of solder mask damage. And that was simply because I think

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these underfill tools are made of some sort of different material than the ones

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I'm used to, and they're a lot sharper, so they kind of dig in a little bit

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easier. Okay. Um, in an ideal world, you don't want any of that. Uh we might have

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to go back and fix it, but uh I don't think so. How do we fix that? Uh you use

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that stuff, that solder mask right there, and you basically put it on there

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on in those areas, and then you scrape, uh the pad area away. Okay. Well,

00:12:21.920 --> 00:12:28.079
hopefully we don't have to do that. We'll find out real quick here if the solder mask issue is going to be an

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issue. Right now, we're just reballing these or what. Uh I'm just tinning them

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up to prepare to uh actually remove all the solder. Oh. Um, and it's easier to

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add leaded solder to it and then remove it than just to remove the straight lead

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free solder. And we use leaded solder because it's just plain gosh darn easier

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to work with. Way easier to work with. Like there's no comparison. But we also

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support the use of lead free solder in industry because there's less lead in

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it. Okay. Those all look like they tinned up pretty nicely. Yep. And the

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solder mask damage is not deep enough to cause any issues at all. Uh if if it

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did, you'd see the solder I just put on there uh stick to those parts. I'm a

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little surprised cuz we can see the copper color, but we haven't gone all

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the way down to the bare metal. Yep. Wonderful. And again, I don't do that

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usually. Right. So, now we're using a solder wick. Yes. Solder wick. Radar

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station out of 10. I'd say it's a good nine out of 10. Eight. Eight and a half.

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Nine out of 10. It's a lot better than my setup. So, you know, I can only say

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so much. Now, we're reflexing to put those caps back on. Yep. I'm going to

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reinstall those real quick here. Oh, is there a reason we do those first instead

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of doing the NAND first? Um, it doesn't really matter. I could do them after.

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Pro tip, make sure you put them on the right way. Hey, and how do you make the judgment call whether to put new solder

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or reuse the original solder? Um, it

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just depends. Uh, if it's a small component, I'll always replace the solder because it's so hard to get them

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to actually stick. But with something big like these capacitors, I'm just

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going to use what it's got. Now we need to deal with uh all these pads here for

00:13:57.440 --> 00:14:04.399
the extra components that we have to install. Yes. Um so first I'm going to

00:14:01.839 --> 00:14:08.959
put some flux on them. And for these I am going to retin them all with lead

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leted solder. As a late 30some I think the most remarkable part of this for me

00:14:10.560 --> 00:14:19.760
is watching him do this without any magnification or assists. I see you've

00:14:15.440 --> 00:14:21.680
obtained from laptop schematics.com

00:14:19.760 --> 00:14:25.920
Apple schematics. Apple doesn't you know provide these do they? No they don't.

00:14:23.440 --> 00:14:29.839
They don't. Uh, but I acquired it. I need it for this job and uh we're going

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to use it to get all these components installed. Eat a apple. So, if you take

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a look at this schematic here, uh, some of the components, you can see all this

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row of decoupling capacitors right here. Uh, these 0.1 microfarad 2.2. I just

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omit those. Uh, I do install a couple of them like these 20 microfarads here. Um,

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and then same here. I just kind of omit all these smaller value ones. And

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that'll still provide enough decoupling for this nan to work effectively.

00:14:52.639 --> 00:14:58.560
engineer who designed this would probably be cringing right now as I'm

00:14:55.839 --> 00:15:03.600
saying this, but uh just due to time constraints and just the immense tedious

00:15:00.880 --> 00:15:08.160
nature of doing this, they're just going to be emitted. It works just fine. I

00:15:05.279 --> 00:15:12.399
start out with the uh top here. PP1V25 awake NAND. Yeah. So, this is power,

00:15:10.160 --> 00:15:18.959
right? Yep. One of the three power rails that each NAND requires that resistor

00:15:14.399 --> 00:15:22.160
RN10 O21s. Very small. Uh-huh. And for

00:15:18.959 --> 00:15:23.680
these, we only need one. Thank god. And

00:15:22.160 --> 00:15:27.600
how do you tell the difference between that and random debris on your pad? You

00:15:26.079 --> 00:15:32.720
can see the little shiny parts of it. Find the component that I probably just

00:15:29.360 --> 00:15:36.000
got stuck to the bottom of my hand. Yep,

00:15:32.720 --> 00:15:38.399
there it is.

00:15:36.000 --> 00:15:43.519
This is ridiculous. It's double the size of 0105s. They use those on iPhones.

00:15:41.279 --> 00:15:46.959
Cool. How do you check if you did it right? So, I just look at it and then I

00:15:45.440 --> 00:15:51.680
actually did it a little bit during the process. I measure them uh if I ever

00:15:49.600 --> 00:15:55.120
have a question about which one is which. I noticed you switched off of the

00:15:53.360 --> 00:15:58.399
tweezers you were using before. Yes, they were slightly magnetic. I had asked

00:15:56.800 --> 00:16:01.360
him before, you know, aside from precision screwdrivers if there's any

00:15:59.920 --> 00:16:05.680
other tools he felt, you know, could be improved. So, uh make sure if we ever do

00:16:03.920 --> 00:16:10.000
tweezers, they're non-magnetic. Yeah, definitely not. Cuz, uh they pick up the

00:16:08.160 --> 00:16:16.560
little components and you can't like, you know, work with them or replace them. So, now with that all out of the

00:16:13.360 --> 00:16:17.920
way, uh we need to get uh this solder

00:16:16.560 --> 00:16:22.639
off of there. So, I'm going to put it back on the preheater and remove that.

00:16:20.320 --> 00:16:26.399
And then we'll get the nans reballed and prepare them to be installed. Heck yeah.

00:16:24.639 --> 00:16:29.680
We ready to put the nans on now? Yep, we're ready to put the nans on. And

00:16:28.160 --> 00:16:34.720
thinking about that, there's one thing I use in my daily setup that I don't have

00:16:31.600 --> 00:16:36.880
here, and that is an optical drive. And

00:16:34.720 --> 00:16:42.160
I use that just as a platform. It has a thin aluminum panel, doesn't retain much

00:16:39.199 --> 00:16:45.680
heat, and allows me to heat the nans while pushing down on them with

00:16:43.360 --> 00:16:51.199
tweezers. I will obtain you something. My MacBook. Couldn't find an optical

00:16:48.160 --> 00:16:52.560
drive, but hear me out. Old LG Graham.

00:16:51.199 --> 00:16:56.320
That'll work just fine. This feels like plastic. I know. I guess we'll find out.

00:16:55.279 --> 00:17:00.639
That's how they made it weigh less than a kilogram. Here's our nan chip. Uh,

00:16:58.320 --> 00:17:06.240
each one is 1 TB. Sick. So, I'm going from 256 gigs to 2 terab for a couple

00:17:04.079 --> 00:17:09.679
hours worth of labor compared to the hundreds and hundreds of dollars that

00:17:08.079 --> 00:17:14.079
Apple would charge me for that upgrade. Y, you're right. It's like a no-brainer.

00:17:12.160 --> 00:17:18.559
It really is. It really is. If you have the skill to do this, it definitely is

00:17:16.000 --> 00:17:21.520
worth it. Even if you don't send it to someone. Yeah, it even is worth it to

00:17:20.079 --> 00:17:25.520
pay someone to do it for you. Question for you, though. What do we know about

00:17:23.120 --> 00:17:29.840
the quality of this? Yes. So, these nans I buy are brand new, at least sold to me

00:17:28.079 --> 00:17:33.520
that way. And I've for with this particular seller, I've never had any

00:17:31.120 --> 00:17:37.280
problems. These are Apple nans. So once you install these, there is literally no

00:17:35.679 --> 00:17:41.200
difference between putting these on yourself or buying them on the machine

00:17:39.200 --> 00:17:44.960
from Apple. They taste the same probably. One difference I noticed from

00:17:43.200 --> 00:17:49.360
the original NAND is that it is physically thicker. Yeah, it literally

00:17:46.880 --> 00:17:53.679
is a higher stack dye inside the chip. What I usually do is I have some cap-on

00:17:51.120 --> 00:17:56.799
tape and I cut it and use that to attach the nands to the bottom of the stencil.

00:17:55.280 --> 00:18:02.160
You can actually feel when it goes into place because it has a little bit of solder on it. That makes it a little bit

00:17:59.840 --> 00:18:05.200
easier. Okay. Because I was really impressed.

00:18:03.679 --> 00:18:08.799
To get this reballed, we're going to be using solder paste, which looks like

00:18:06.799 --> 00:18:12.559
this. Essentially, what this is is a bunch of tiny solder balls suspended in

00:18:10.559 --> 00:18:16.000
flux. To clean all the solder paste off, I just kind of take it and yeah,

00:18:14.240 --> 00:18:21.600
perpendicular, and it just cleans it right off. So, with that done, we're

00:18:18.080 --> 00:18:23.520
ready to take the hot air and melt the

00:18:21.600 --> 00:18:26.880
solder paste into position and it'll make little balls. So with this, you

00:18:25.600 --> 00:18:31.840
want to go pretty slow with it. You don't want to heat it too quickly at once because that will cause the solder

00:18:30.160 --> 00:18:36.480
paste to run underneath the stencil and could cause problems. The thermal mass

00:18:33.919 --> 00:18:40.480
of our LG Graham might be a little high. Okay. So, it's just a matter of getting

00:18:37.919 --> 00:18:44.400
our temperature dialed in for our situation here. Yep. Well, that was

00:18:42.559 --> 00:18:47.600
worth it. We have some slightly thicker solder balls. Yep. But we're not done

00:18:46.080 --> 00:18:52.000
yet, though. We have to heat it one more time uh with no stencil uh to make sure

00:18:50.240 --> 00:18:56.640
everything lays flat on the chip. Okay. So there's one fully done and ready to

00:18:54.240 --> 00:19:01.200
be installed. Nice. I think it's so cool that enterprising right to repair folks

00:18:59.120 --> 00:19:05.760
managed to figure this stuff out. Not just, you know, in the absence of

00:19:03.600 --> 00:19:09.120
Apple's help, but with them in some cases actively working against this kind

00:19:07.919 --> 00:19:13.360
of thing. It's actually kind of surprising they make it this easy.

00:19:11.200 --> 00:19:19.200
There's no pre-programming required, which was the case on the older T2 Max.

00:19:15.919 --> 00:19:22.960
I mean, wow. That is really hunting for

00:19:19.200 --> 00:19:24.559
a W for them there. But shirt,

00:19:22.960 --> 00:19:29.600
you know, the programming part is a whole another situation. So to not have

00:19:27.360 --> 00:19:34.320
to deal with that is good. Less ass at least. Yeah, I guess that's a good way

00:19:31.440 --> 00:19:38.559
to put it. Okay, cool. All right, now it's literally just solder them on the

00:19:35.840 --> 00:19:42.240
board and do a DFU restore. I'm using uh the board view here to reference which

00:19:40.240 --> 00:19:46.720
position pin one goes on each chip. So you can see the pin one dot right there.

00:19:44.320 --> 00:19:50.960
These pads I would consider huge compared to most pads. Like I've done

00:19:48.720 --> 00:19:54.000
these before. or I've done the SOC's by hand. By hand. Yeah. Well, I'm

00:19:52.640 --> 00:19:57.919
impressed. The other nans we're going to be working with is BGA 315, which is

00:19:56.160 --> 00:20:00.480
this footprint. These are a lot tighter. You kind of feel when they have a little

00:19:59.280 --> 00:20:04.960
resistance, that's when they're hitting the pads. Perfect.

00:20:03.039 --> 00:20:08.240
This one I kind of want to get pretty perfect because of the solder mask

00:20:06.400 --> 00:20:12.480
issue, right? To make sure we don't accidentally bond to any of the exposed

00:20:10.080 --> 00:20:16.160
copper. Yep. Exactly. So, now we just have to heat with the hot air to solder

00:20:14.400 --> 00:20:19.600
them into position. Um, one thing you can do to make sure is just to tap it

00:20:18.080 --> 00:20:23.760
with some tweezers. You want to see it move? Oh yeah, she moves. So that's

00:20:21.679 --> 00:20:27.679
perfect there. Oh, there she goes. Oh, she sucked down really nice. And that's

00:20:25.919 --> 00:20:33.679
it. We're done. So now we just have to do a DFU restore. I've always kind of

00:20:30.480 --> 00:20:36.240
wondered about people like you where you

00:20:33.679 --> 00:20:42.080
seem to both completely recognize all of Apple's horseshit and yet somehow retain

00:20:39.520 --> 00:20:46.480
something of a reverence for them. I love Apple as you can probably tell and

00:20:44.559 --> 00:20:50.720
I like it because it's a challenge. Like some of them are a challenge like these.

00:20:48.400 --> 00:20:54.720
It's just kind of fun to work on and uh I like the software. If you had to give

00:20:52.720 --> 00:20:58.320
me Windows 11 or the latest version of macOS, uh it's a night and day

00:20:56.880 --> 00:21:02.600
difference to me. I would never consider using Windows 11 in any circumstances.

00:21:02.799 --> 00:21:07.360
The reason I've got everything disassembled here, in addition to making

00:21:05.919 --> 00:21:11.760
it easier to take it back out to do extra work if needed, uh there's also

00:21:09.440 --> 00:21:16.320
some pads you can see right here, and one of which is used to put the machine

00:21:14.080 --> 00:21:20.880
in DFU mode. Now, if you just plug it into power as is, it's going to boot

00:21:18.559 --> 00:21:24.320
loop and make it extremely difficult to use the keyboard commands to do it. So,

00:21:22.799 --> 00:21:29.200
I like to do it this way because you can just plug it in with those pads shorted

00:21:26.799 --> 00:21:33.039
and it will uh go straight into DFU mode. And because this resistor isn't

00:21:30.720 --> 00:21:37.760
populated, I actually have to short from that pad to this pad. And why would that

00:21:36.320 --> 00:21:41.440
resistor not be populated? Uh because it's part of the debug bomb and it's not

00:21:39.919 --> 00:21:47.200
stuffed on this board because it's not a development board. How much does that resistor cost for them at scale?

00:21:44.880 --> 00:21:52.240
probably like less than a cent. I need to short that pad to this pad. Okay. And

00:21:50.320 --> 00:21:56.080
there it is. Revive Mac or restore Mac. Hold option

00:21:54.480 --> 00:22:00.559
and click restore Mac cuz I already have the software downloaded. So intuitive.

00:21:58.799 --> 00:22:05.200
Such intuitive software. You're right. This is so much better than Windows 11.

00:22:02.799 --> 00:22:10.640
Hold option to do it. Okay. And then I need to select 15.5 latest version. If

00:22:08.640 --> 00:22:15.360
the nans get programmed improperly due to my mistakes with putting those

00:22:13.039 --> 00:22:20.640
components on, the nans are unusable at that point. So that's always fun. Hit

00:22:18.880 --> 00:22:24.000
it. Well, what that hold on that happened

00:22:22.640 --> 00:22:29.440
right after you cut the camera, you got an Apple logo. I assume that's a good sign. That's good so far. The a slightly

00:22:27.760 --> 00:22:33.600
filled progress bar is what I'm really looking for because if that if it gets

00:22:31.520 --> 00:22:36.640
to that stage, it's good. Yes. There we go. All right, let's go. We're good.

00:22:35.360 --> 00:22:42.000
We're good. We're good. We're good. Should be wrapped there for today. and I take my run at it tomorrow. Uh, sure.

00:22:40.080 --> 00:22:48.240
Uh, we'll let this finish. Make sure everything looks good. And there it is

00:22:44.240 --> 00:22:51.679
right there. 2 terb. 2 terb, baby.

00:22:48.240 --> 00:22:54.159
Heck yeah. Freaking awesome. And the

00:22:51.679 --> 00:22:58.960
best part is I'm probably never going to use more than like 30 gigs of I use

00:22:56.880 --> 00:23:02.240
network attached storage for everything. Well, the upgrade itself is the fun

00:23:00.799 --> 00:23:06.159
process here, so that's all that really matters. Speaking of which, is it my

00:23:03.919 --> 00:23:10.000
turn? It is your turn. So, okay. What are we going to do it on? Well, we've

00:23:07.440 --> 00:23:13.200
got a pile of Macs here for you. Um, I would advise starting with the M4 Mac

00:23:12.000 --> 00:23:18.159
Mini. I think that's going to be the easiest one for a beginner to attempt.

00:23:16.559 --> 00:23:22.080
Okay, I'm going to do it then. In its stock configuration, this is a pretty

00:23:19.919 --> 00:23:26.400
affordable machine, so no big deal. And it has a module. But in its upgraded

00:23:24.240 --> 00:23:30.880
configuration, it's so valuable. I stand to lose so

00:23:28.880 --> 00:23:35.120
little and gain so much. We also do have two of these, so if you break it, we can

00:23:32.640 --> 00:23:39.520
just movie magic it through the magic of buying two of them. Yeah, as they say.

00:23:37.919 --> 00:23:43.520
Feel free to supervise cuz I can't remember how this one comes apart. Hold on. Hold on. Hold on. Don't tell me the

00:23:41.919 --> 00:23:47.919
answer. Just be careful with it. It likes to break. Good. All right. So, do

00:23:46.400 --> 00:23:50.720
we just do all of these? Uh, yep. All eight of those. And then there's two T3s

00:23:49.520 --> 00:23:56.880
in the middle. And I usually just leave that plugged in. Yep. Just take the fan off. There's just two T5s there holding

00:23:54.159 --> 00:24:03.919
it in. And there it is. And there it is. And that's just a T8. So, we've got two

00:24:01.200 --> 00:24:08.640
NAND packages. Yep. And they are opposite each other. Step one, heat it

00:24:06.640 --> 00:24:12.320
up and scrape away the shoo. Yep, that's right. Let's go. Okay, where's our hot

00:24:10.720 --> 00:24:16.720
air gun? Uh, not ready for that just yet. Oh, first you got to put it in the

00:24:14.799 --> 00:24:20.720
board holder. We want it oriented this way so that we can more easily slide our

00:24:18.880 --> 00:24:24.880
tool in from the side that has no surface mount components in the way. All

00:24:22.320 --> 00:24:29.360
right. Now, heat gun. Uh, first, nope, not heat gun. First, prepare your tool.

00:24:26.880 --> 00:24:33.679
Do we use the the top scraper or the bottom one? We like the tip. Okay. And

00:24:32.000 --> 00:24:37.840
when you do this, you want to be pretty gentle with it as to not scrape away the

00:24:35.600 --> 00:24:41.520
solder mask like I accidentally did with your other one. So, do as you say, not

00:24:39.840 --> 00:24:45.919
as you do. So, I'm going to guess and I'm going to say 330. No, but you ended

00:24:44.559 --> 00:24:50.559
up at that high. That was a bigger board. This has way less thermal mass

00:24:47.760 --> 00:24:55.440
and it's elevated, so the the sink the mat won't sink any heat through. Okay.

00:24:52.640 --> 00:25:00.240
279. 250. 250. Just concentrated straight to

00:24:58.480 --> 00:25:07.600
the chip. I'm totally going to do this, Alex. I would give you probably like a

00:25:02.960 --> 00:25:09.279
67% chance of winning here, but 67% or

00:25:07.600 --> 00:25:15.360
60 to 70? Yeah, I don't know. I'd give it about a 45%. What? 45?

00:25:13.120 --> 00:25:18.000
I know how this goes. How all of it do I need? Like I said, you don't have to be

00:25:16.720 --> 00:25:21.679
too thorough with this. As long as you get a separation of some sort between

00:25:20.240 --> 00:25:26.480
those components, you're good. Call that good. I'm going to call that good on this part. Okay, so now we heat it up

00:25:24.799 --> 00:25:30.000
and we try to get under it. Yep. I'm thinking 300 now. Yep, that's exactly

00:25:28.320 --> 00:25:32.880
right. Let's go. Cold knife through butter, baby. You'll start to feel when

00:25:31.520 --> 00:25:39.039
it starts to get trapped under there, which is which is exactly what you want.

00:25:35.200 --> 00:25:41.360
Let's go, boys. Okay, step one complete.

00:25:39.039 --> 00:25:44.799
Now, cleaning. While you're doing this, please make sure not to touch any

00:25:42.960 --> 00:25:48.880
components, right? Cuz we're at a solder melting temperature, so they would just

00:25:46.320 --> 00:25:52.480
y move. So, we're getting the underfill and the solder off right now. Hey. Yes.

00:25:50.799 --> 00:25:56.159
Yep. That's right. That looks pretty good, actually. That looks really good.

00:25:54.000 --> 00:26:00.320
I'm pretty satisfied with that. Oh, ye of little faith. All right. Now we go

00:25:59.120 --> 00:26:04.559
lower temperature and we get all the rest of the black shrew off. Yes. 250.

00:26:02.559 --> 00:26:08.720
250. All right. When you remove that, you want to make sure the stuff on the

00:26:06.000 --> 00:26:12.080
sides is pretty flat because the new nans we're going to be installing are

00:26:10.159 --> 00:26:15.360
actually wider than the originals. A little bit is not going to hurt anything

00:26:13.679 --> 00:26:19.760
when we reball it. It's going to have enough height to make up for any of that. The closer you can get it, the

00:26:17.840 --> 00:26:23.440
better. Oh, I'm 100% confident in that. You're good. That's the first 100%

00:26:21.679 --> 00:26:28.960
confidence I've ever gotten from my teacher. Okay. I'm gonna think we put on

00:26:27.039 --> 00:26:33.039
flux and then we put on solder paste. Fluxy fluxy and solder. Let's go, boys.

00:26:31.360 --> 00:26:37.919
But no solder paste on the board. You'll use the spool of solder with the soldering iron to clean off all the

00:26:35.600 --> 00:26:42.960
original the residual. So, I'm going to put on just enough to cover it. Okay,

00:26:40.799 --> 00:26:47.679
give me my new odds based on what you've seen so far. Okay, we're hitting a good

00:26:44.799 --> 00:26:53.840
90%. I'm going to go up to 90%. 90%. Take that, Alex.

00:26:50.799 --> 00:26:56.640
Colin gave me 90% now. Yeah, he gave you

00:26:53.840 --> 00:27:01.200
45 at first. Exactly. Yeah. See, now you can really see being removed. Look at

00:26:59.039 --> 00:27:04.720
her go. Let's go, bud. I just needed more surface contact. Y So, I'm just

00:27:03.279 --> 00:27:09.279
using the fatter part of the tip. And now it's working great, bud. You've got

00:27:06.960 --> 00:27:12.960
it. Yep. I don't see any issues. Let's go. So, now just clean it with rubbing

00:27:11.200 --> 00:27:17.440
alcohol and paper towel. With both sides clean, it's time to reball. You got your

00:27:14.720 --> 00:27:22.480
stencil first here. And let me grab the new Nand. Oh, it has little piggies on

00:27:19.600 --> 00:27:26.640
it. Why does it have piggies on it? The seller I buy these from in China always

00:27:24.480 --> 00:27:31.360
puts little stamps on them like that. Adorable. And these are one tab each.

00:27:29.520 --> 00:27:34.400
One tab each. Correct. It's not as much thicker this time, though. Okay. They're

00:27:33.039 --> 00:27:38.880
definitely getting the density down with these newer ones for the newer systems.

00:27:36.080 --> 00:27:43.120
Very cool. Now, I know that Stencil has four footprints, but the way the stencil

00:27:41.200 --> 00:27:47.840
warps, I would highly advise doing just one at a time. Sure, that makes sense.

00:27:45.120 --> 00:27:50.960
Okay. Now, if I recall correctly, I pull this off and then we heat it up so that

00:27:49.360 --> 00:27:57.360
we don't pull it off yet. No, we ball it first. Yep. Heat it first. Let's go 330.

00:27:53.440 --> 00:28:00.240
330. Cuz remember, press the button. And

00:27:57.360 --> 00:28:04.240
before you heat, take these tweezers and keep pressure on the chip. It's harder

00:28:02.880 --> 00:28:07.360
for me to tell when it starts shimmering when it's all fresh solder balls. Yeah,

00:28:06.000 --> 00:28:11.919
that's perfect. I don't see any problems there. Okay. So, one last step is apply

00:28:09.919 --> 00:28:15.520
a decent bit of flux to the center of it. Perfect. And heat it again with the

00:28:13.760 --> 00:28:20.880
hot air. All right. Because I'm elite hacks, I'm going to say pin one is top

00:28:18.240 --> 00:28:26.080
left. Nope. Damn it. All right. All right, that's good. All right, now take

00:28:23.760 --> 00:28:34.159
and carefully align your chip to the pads. M right there. Perfect. Thanks.

00:28:29.919 --> 00:28:35.919
Not It's impossible to describe, but you

00:28:34.159 --> 00:28:43.039
can kind of feel it. I told you you can feel it. Yeah. Now we go to 330. 300.

00:28:40.960 --> 00:28:47.120
300. And just kind of hold it at a specific spot and just wait. And I

00:28:45.440 --> 00:28:52.159
wouldn't recommend you tap it on this one. Tap it. Oh, I wasn't going to tap

00:28:49.679 --> 00:28:56.720
it. Okay, good. Um, once you see the flux start bubbling out of the sides of

00:28:54.080 --> 00:28:59.840
it, that usually means it's done. Okay, so you're you're done. I'm seeing

00:28:58.080 --> 00:29:03.279
bubbling. So, you're done. It didn't move at all. That's just cuz your

00:29:01.760 --> 00:29:08.159
alignment was so perfect that it just went straight down and you couldn't see it. Okay, that's pretty sick. And wait

00:29:07.039 --> 00:29:12.720
for it to cool down just a little bit and then hit it. Then we can do the other one. Yep. Yep. And then you got to

00:29:10.799 --> 00:29:17.840
do this all over again. I couldn't ask for a better result than that. So, am I

00:29:14.880 --> 00:29:21.679
hired? You're hired, man. Let's go. Now, it's time to put it back in. Let's get

00:29:19.440 --> 00:29:27.120
my T5 and my T3 queued up so I don't have to keep reaching into the thing. Oh

00:29:23.440 --> 00:29:29.279
yeah, what a feature. Look at it go. LTT

00:29:27.120 --> 00:29:35.440
precision screwdriver. ltstore.com. Short those two pins. Okay,

00:29:33.120 --> 00:29:42.240
I'm 100% confident right now. Let's hope. I hope. You mean we're in DFU

00:29:38.399 --> 00:29:44.320
mode? That's a good sign so far. This is

00:29:42.240 --> 00:29:47.840
the part where this bar is going to start moving. Yep. Let's hope. And this

00:29:46.240 --> 00:29:52.240
is the part where if Apple didn't cheap out and they were willing to put touchcreens on their Macs, I would be

00:29:50.640 --> 00:29:55.679
interfering with the process. Once that progress bar starts filling just like

00:29:53.679 --> 00:30:00.799
the other one, then we're good. No, we're good now. No, we failed, dude.

00:29:58.720 --> 00:30:04.640
What? That can't be right. An error occurred

00:30:02.720 --> 00:30:10.640
while formatting the NAND. That means either the NAND's incompatible or

00:30:06.799 --> 00:30:13.760
improperly programmed. So,

00:30:10.640 --> 00:30:15.840
I think we might be so here. However, we

00:30:13.760 --> 00:30:20.960
still have an option to go to 1 TBTE with some extra chips I have. That was

00:30:18.080 --> 00:30:26.080
shockingly fast. So, I have 1 TB of storage then. Yes, 1 TB uh using my

00:30:24.080 --> 00:30:30.720
backup chips that I luckily decided to bring with me. That's fine. So, I still

00:30:28.559 --> 00:30:34.559
got a very significant upgrade for extra storage and I got a learning experience.

00:30:33.279 --> 00:30:38.640
Yeah. And nothing you did messed anything up. Nothing was your fault. So,

00:30:36.399 --> 00:30:42.960
it was just bad chips and incompatible nans. And I think that's probably a good

00:30:40.960 --> 00:30:48.399
thing for people to take away from this video is that while yes, you know, we

00:30:45.919 --> 00:30:53.919
can work around Apple's limitations, it isn't even for an expert completely

00:30:50.960 --> 00:30:59.279
without risk. Yeah. Um which isn't to say that it isn't worth the effort. I

00:30:56.799 --> 00:31:02.799
mean, for every person who contacts you and, you know, ultimately gets their

00:31:00.640 --> 00:31:06.799
machine upgraded, they get two benefits. One, they save money, and two, they keep

00:31:04.640 --> 00:31:12.000
a machine that potentially they couldn't use anymore because of its limited

00:31:08.640 --> 00:31:14.960
hardware. Exactly. Out of the garbage

00:31:12.000 --> 00:31:18.960
bin, which is pretty important to me. Anyway, unlike a lot of people, you did

00:31:16.880 --> 00:31:22.480
not mess up the board when removing the underfill, which a lot of people do. So,

00:31:20.480 --> 00:31:27.279
that's pretty impressive. I had a very helpful supervisor. Yeah, we shouted out

00:31:25.039 --> 00:31:30.320
your channel earlier, but uh hey, now we're showing it. Go check them out.

00:31:28.720 --> 00:31:36.240
Doss Dude 1. We'll have them linked in the video description. Thanks so much for coming up here, Colin. And thanks so

00:31:33.520 --> 00:31:40.320
much for enduring me telling you about our sponsor. Maybe by wearing these

00:31:37.919 --> 00:31:44.399
shoes from Vessie, but I love my sandals. Vessie is not going to sponsor

00:31:42.399 --> 00:31:47.919
us. If he keeps wearing those sandals, so I'm going to steal them. There must

00:31:46.080 --> 00:31:51.360
be a reason why Linus is so obsessed with sandals. I got to find out. Maybe

00:31:49.840 --> 00:31:55.600
they're actually better than Vessie. I spent 20 seconds putting them on and I

00:31:53.279 --> 00:31:58.640
just slip right into Vessie. One second. Breathability though, I give a five

00:31:57.279 --> 00:32:03.919
star, but I don't want to show off my ugly toes. Maybe it's a waterproof. Of

00:32:01.679 --> 00:32:09.200
course not. You think I'm Vessie? How about the look? Vessie strikes again.

00:32:06.559 --> 00:32:13.039
The ugly sandals are nearly 20% heavier. Mission complete. I replace all of his

00:32:11.120 --> 00:32:16.880
sandals with Vessie. Check out their new ultra light Vestie Pacific sneaker. They

00:32:15.120 --> 00:32:20.640
come with a one-year warranty with worryfree 30-day returns at

00:32:18.880 --> 00:32:25.760
vessi.com/LTT and get 15% off your first pair. Wait,

00:32:23.519 --> 00:32:29.440
he has more sandals. If you guys enjoyed this video, why not check out the time

00:32:27.039 --> 00:32:33.039
that we water cooled a Mac Studio? That was a lot of fun. That sounds fun.
