WEBVTT

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any cubic has sent over a 3D printer

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this one I'm actually quite excited about as well I mean I just love 3D

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printers in general but this one for the price that it costs and for the features

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that it has is probably going to be the best entry level printer I have seen I'm

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very excited so thanks to any cubic for sponsoring this video and let's see what

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they sent us got our assembly instructions so quite

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quite the booklet it's all nicely laid out in

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foam Packaging got all our little bits

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and Bobs let's just get in there and start taking it apart this one does ship

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semi-disassembled most of the base plate

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is going to be all together and then we pretty much

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just have to stuff the top axis on top of it nice thing about this one is it

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comes with this textured metal magnetic build plate so that'll pop off really

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nice now you just put your parts right off and then we get to the main event

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the bottom plate let's see if I can get this out without destroying everything

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okay that's easier we have a USB stick

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so we'll have our firmware and our profiles for Cura which I believe this

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uses there we go yeah it's a little USB stick and it even has a little SD card

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reader slot on the side spare nozzle

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what size is this spare 0.4 millimeter nozzle probably comes along with

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attached we haven't quite got there yet and and what on Earth is this oh this

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will be our gstfe lining tube for the Bowden this is

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a Bowden Drive printer it comes with an 8 gig micro SD card there let's get this

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out and have a look at our base plate oh

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there's even more stuff I didn't even see out of the way

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so here is going to be the big brains of

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our 3D printer this design is a little bit different than some of the other

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ones a lot of the cheaper models like like this one run on Wheels so the the

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y-axis here as well as the x-axis and

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which every axis on this run on these V

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wheels and then they run into these little slots on the side of the aluminum

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Extrusion and they just sort of Glide along there it's a little bit of quieter

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operation than if you had a ball bearing but it's a less precise mounting option

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and it's even less precise than

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something like a linear rail but at this price in this category I think V Wheels

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is completely acceptable our hot end assembly looks quite nice looks like

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it's a standard e3d V6 and one of the

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most exciting features about this printer is it comes with mesh bed

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leveling so it looks like we have an inductive probe at the bottom here

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that's what this little orange protrusion is and that'll detect the bed

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the magnetic field will get in the way and then it can know exactly how level

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your bed is so you don't have to worry about that as much makes this easier for

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beginner any cubic is calling this technology any cubic Levy Q I don't know

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if there's any proprietary magic in there or if they're just

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you know making up fun names but it seems like it's just magnetic and

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inductive leveling it'll be good enough and

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especially at this price performance ratio upgrading that down the line we'll

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be talking about that a lot upgrading is more than a possibility because it's

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here in the base I guess the last thing

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to do now is just to assemble the thing Kyle has assured me that the default pit

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set for our LTT screwdriver lcdstore.com come with pretty much every

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bit that you would need to assemble a 3D printer so we'll see if he's lying or

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not I think these are our z-axis profiles this one is blank and this one

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here has a little nubbing on the side of it uh there's the nubbin what's the

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front the front has thing with the Dingle ARM nice and light I'm uh I'm

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impressed at all the Extrusion is nice and sturdy one thing that you don't

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want and you do get on some cheaper printers is they're really wobbly you

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know it looks like they've spent the budget for this printer in the areas

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that matter rather than you know like it's designed to be made

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cheaply it's not made cheaply okay well

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I'm gonna disappear and get some more of this assembled and when we get to

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something interesting like maybe I don't know this Gantry assembly we'll uh we'll

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see you again bye

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and we're back it's another day we've got the printer mostly assembled it

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wasn't very difficult it only took roughly an hour very simple the

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instructions were okay they're not the best I've ever seen but they were easy

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to follow and all the parts fit into each other there's no confusion all the

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little bags of screws are nicely labeled all the cables for the various axes and

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end stops are all really nicely labeled and it just sort of put itself together

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it was great we do have some steps to do now that are a little more complicated

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than some other types of printers because we have these V Wheels you can

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see we've got a hell a lot of play everywhere we're going to need to do

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some uh basically traveling and calibration they've given us this wrench

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and most of these wheels here have an

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eccentric nut which allows us to tighten them up and make sure we can get this

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slop out of this system one thing I'm not entirely enthused about is that

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it's only driven and supported on one side I guess they've done that as a cost

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saving measure but I'm not entirely sure

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this is going to tram up the way that I want it that feels really tight now

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but I'm concerned it's not going to move very well what's kind of interesting is

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they recommend that we take this little cardboard box that all the tools came in

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and bring the x-axis sorry the bring the

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z-axis up throw this over here and then lower

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z-axis down onto the toolbox that's sort of

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like squaring it I guess and now we've got to loosen some of these screws I've

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got the V Wheels all nice and tight now and there's no more Flex in this

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x-axis Gantry one of the things that's a

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little bit interesting is there's no adjustment for the bed at all and I

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wonder if they've done this as like an extreme cost saving measure because we

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only have one support on this side like to drive the z-axis up and down but I

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think they've included best med leveling specifically to address

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the tramming issue so what I'm seeing

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right now even though I have everything relatively

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like tight and perfect we can't go too tight because then the motors won't be

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able to move it but if this is your bed what I'm seeing on the nozzle right now

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is it sort of starts here and then it comes in a in an angle towards the right

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hand side of the bed and if we didn't have bed mesh leveling there would be

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really no way in this printer at least that I see with no adjustments on the

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bed to um to get rid of that but with

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bed mesh leveling I can measure all the different points on the bed and then I

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can move the the z-axis up right I can

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sorry yeah the z-axis would come up as

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the nozzle moves to the right and it would effectively get rid of that completely okay we've got the power in

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got a nice color screen on the front there we will start off I guess by

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giving it a home I can hear rather loud

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fan not super loud but you'll notice it

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from the power supply I guess there we go and let's try the auto leveling

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feature so it's going to home all the accesses and then it's going to uh

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hopefully do an auto level so it should do a full

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probe of the entire bed and my hope is that it stores that internally so that I

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don't have to you know do an auto level every single print because this is

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rather slow especially with the z-axis

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only being driven on one side I don't think it wants to do like super fast Zed

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movements but you never need that anyway really for me I always run a boat and

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setup because it does allow for those faster print speeds I want my printing

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now and uh this is a great way to do it

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the shorter the tube the better so by having it really really close to the uh

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to the carriage here you're gonna

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have less of that slop so this is a really good setup and a nice trade-off I

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always like to see that the test print I've done I've tried to go sort of balls

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to the wall and they're claiming you know 10 centimeters a second to 100

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millimeters a minute sorry 100 millimeters a second so I've asked the

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print to make it do 100 millimeters a second pretty much the whole time so I'm

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excited to see that see if we lose any steps it appears that this printer uses

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the Marlin firmware which is quite nice that's what I use at home too

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um you could have I guess then technically flash whatever you wanted but I don't know and that also means

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that you can pretty much use whatever slicing software and hosts you want for

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me I like PDA host or repetir or rapper

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day it's uh it's nice for machine

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control I run my machines at home via

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USB so I don't print with SD cards because I'm weird don't add me

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um the nice thing about that is you get to see real-time feedback of your print

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we're gonna be doing this little fidgety spinnery thing which should give us some

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indication of tolerances this can achieve and also should print nice and

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quick too it's mostly just um it's mostly just external perimeters and

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a little bit of infill I couldn't get the USB connected I don't know if that's

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my fault or if it doesn't contain it but I can't really find any information on

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that maybe it was just a guess on my part but I've got my SD card in now and

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let's uh it's got this print

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sliced up I'm going to use Pusha slicer for this because that's what I like I'm

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just getting the filament in now we've moved over to the build corner because

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uh we got to do some other filming and this print's going to take 20 minutes or

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so let's just push it through manually and then we'll do some feeding I just

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want to get it through the Bowden tube and make sure it's not encountering any

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resistance As I push it into the hot end the more resistance you get through your

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hot end assembly the worse your volumetric speeds are going to be because your stepper motor is not going

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to be able to keep up and if we want to be printing fast then we need no

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resistance that's printing nice and fast so first layer of doing at about

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I don't know 60 millimeters a second

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which is uh still pretty aggressive for first layer and it's laying it down

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quite nicely I am seeing some issues with that tramming though so maybe I

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didn't do the mesh bed leveling properly uh we're getting a little bit of over

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Extrusion there but again this is all my fault the printer is moving absolutely

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silently so I think it has to use

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um the TMC 2130s really what you're

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buying at this price point is just a base and a platform to to go off of and

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if they've included all the mechanical stuff that you could possibly need then

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you can go through and upgrade it like the fan and the power supply or you

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could get a different power supply or a quieter power supply you could put a

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different firmware on it you could you know adjust the settings adjust the tune

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that sort of thing the software they've included has got some really nice

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quality of life features too I can pause the print and it also has power loss

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protection we're not going to test that because I just kind of want this print to finish but you know you unplug the

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cable or you have a power outage and the print will resume it'll reheat the hot

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end it'll re-home itself and and start back from where it left off which is

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nice I guess I'll let this print finish and see if the quality is good see if

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the tolerances are good enough I mean minus all the

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stringing but again that's my fault that's not necessarily the pringer's fault okay I'll see in a bit I've got it

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assembled we gave it some testing and I spent the

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rest of the afternoon kind of fiddling with it

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now when you're 3D printing you have a bunch of variables you have how fast

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you're moving the tool the printhead or the X Carriage every

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single one of these variables needs to be correct and controlled and for a

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beginner I think it's quite difficult to know which one of these maybe tens to 30

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variables you have to Target to get a proper print or a part we'll start with

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this one here which I printed quite aggressively this was done at 100

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millimeters a second which is sort of the upper echelon of what any cubic is

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claiming for this printer and as you can see we had a x-axis layer shift so the

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stepper motor that controls the position of this axis here was moving too fast

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there was too much tension on the v-wheels you know whatever and

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the computer thought that the tool was

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in a spot that it wasn't the next one this which I was just printing and

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screwing with the printer at the time so this doesn't really count

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um and now we can see we're we're kind of we're getting better as we go down

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the line here when you buy an expensive printer

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sort of maybe double the cost of this one triple the cost of this one what

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you're really paying for in my opinion is less variables that you

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have to control and account for that doesn't necessarily mean that they're

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going to be the best I think if you're going to be buying a cheap printer like

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this there's going to be a long learning

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curve even for me just getting the V

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Wheels to be the exact correct tension so that there wasn't sag on the far side

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of the axis and that the z-axis height

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adjust was actually moving both of them

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on the first couple prints here I didn't have them tensioned quite correctly and

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so when the z-axis height adjust was moving

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the exit Carriage it was just pulling

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this side up and down and this side was

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not really moving that much so this this came off the printer and you know

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they're all free but it's got some blobs and things I was uh playing with the

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retraction settings quite a lot there seems to be some issues with over

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Extrusion it likes to blob that could be

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this filament but it's new and it's dried we can see some under Extrusion

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artifacts along this side here which is very interesting

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and yeah a lot of stringiness I will

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give credit to the bed the bed works

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extremely well um this nice rough surface it's not

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peeling everything's stuck to it really quite well

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one quality of light feature that I think it's missing is end stops along

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the back side so that when you put the bed on it's sort of square I was Finding

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on having to grab the the hot 60 degree

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bed just to like get it straight the

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only problem is that this printer is two hundred dollars uh it's even cheaper

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right now as it's offered as an early bird thing that's incredibly good value

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for what you get you get a uh you get a

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3D printer for 200 bucks I guess for 200 this is a fine printer that can you know

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squirt plastic where you want it to squirt the problem is that if you're a

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little more advanced you might not have this as a as a good base for the long

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run but for 200 bucks it's a great gateway drug into the 3D printing Hobby

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and as you've only spent two hundred dollars you've still got loads of money

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left over to go buy like a 600 touch screen toaster

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um Sarah did a review of that you can check out here thanks to any cubic for

00:15:56.519 --> 00:16:03.500
sponsoring this video they make a lot lot of other good stuff too check it out

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thanks bye
