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Some would say that it's a discouraging time to build your own PC. And that

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makes sense when $2,000 will get you a gaming GPU or a single kit of DDR5

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memory. But if we shop smart, we can still buy a pretty rocking full PC for

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that price and assemble it ourselves. So CIC sponsored this video to help us show

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you that it's not all doom and gloom.

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I SAID NOT ALL DOOM AND GLOOM.

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THANK YOU. Kind of need all the help I can get to find the bright side here

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because looking at the direction pricing's been going for the past few

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months, it's hard to be sure that this stuff isn't going to be even more

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expensive by the time you watch this video.

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I SAID NOT ALL DOOM AND GLOOM.

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Are you tired of boring screwdrivers? Boom. Four new colors of the brand new

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LTT transparent screwdriver. Plasma purple, cryo teal, molten orange, and

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carbon black. They're see-through. They're awesome. And they're probably

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going to sell out because for a limited time only if you buy through YouTube

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Shopping at the link in the video description, you will get 20% off your

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driver, but only until December 30th. Collect them all or maybe pair them with

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our brand new bid case and all over print hoodie.

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Starting at the beginning, a Starting at the beginning, a great way

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to save a dollar is to buy a last generation CPU. In this case, the tried

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andrue AMD Ryzen 77800X3T.

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Furthermore, by opting for an OEM CPU, which uh [clears throat] didn't actually

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come with a box, we saved another $10, making this chip almost $100 cheaper

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than buying the newer 9800 X3D. And the

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best part is that according to our Labs testing, in the real world, gaming at

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1440p or 4K, we're really not giving up

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that much, if anything, compared to the latest and greatest. There is one

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downside to going with OEM, though. Your warranty will not be through AMD

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directly, so make sure that you check the terms and choose a reputable seller.

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Now, to find a reputable motherboard to keep this little guy cozy in, we felt

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that Gigabytes B850 Gaming X Wi-Fi ATX

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was a great choice. We got it on sale for 150 bucks, which is a fine price for

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a full-sized ATX board that comes packed with features like high-speed onboard

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networking, three M.2 two slots, one of which running at Gen 5 speeds and solid

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IO with both HDMI and DisplayPort for your integrated graphics solution if you

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ever need to use that. Now, before we mash these boys together, it's probably

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time [music] to prepare our work surface. I strongly recommend an ESD

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safe mat and an ESD strap, and I enjoy

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using my motherboard box as a handy little work platform.

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For tools, you don't really need much to build a PC. A screwdriver should be all

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that you need, but your life will be a little easier with a magnetic parts

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tray, zip ties, some side cutters, and then occasionally my needle-nose pliers

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will pull me out of a sticky situation. With everything laid out, installing

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your CPU should take no more than about 30 seconds. Open up the CPU socket, line

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up the old golden triangle or the notches on the side of the CPU, and then

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place it gently into the LGA socket. Once you think it's in there, give it

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just a tiny little wiggle to make sure it's seated properly. Now, we lower the

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hold down, followed by the lever. Now, I've said this before and I'm going to

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say it again. This takes more force than you might expect. Don't worry about

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that. Toss this into your motherboard box for safekeeping. And instead, worry

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about all the amazing memories that our new little friend here is going to make

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in his new home. And worry about how expensive memories are. Memory prices

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have gone through the roof in recent months. Against that backdrop, our $300

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2x6 gig kit from GSkill seems downright reasonable. I mean, at least it's 6,000

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mega transfer per second CL30, which is a great sweet spot for AMD. And I mean,

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hey, we didn't want fancy heat spreaders or RGB anyway. Right.

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Right. Hopefully by the time this video comes out, you'll still be able to find

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a kit like this for around this price. And if you can't, well, hey, here's a

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convenient dartboard design that you can download, print, and enjoy instead of

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playing video games. Anyway, if you manage to get your hands on some memory,

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just go ahead and pop them into slots A2 and B2 by opening up the latches, lining

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up the central key, and pressing firmly on both sides of each dim until you hear

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a distinct [music] click. By the way, if you have just about any weird issues

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when you first try to fire up your system later, an easy troubleshooting

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step that works way more often than it should is to take your memory out and

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receat it >> and then receat the RAM. >> There. Now, our 7800 X3D is cozy and no

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longer suffering from short-term memory loss. But long term long term, well,

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that's a whole other story. That is where our two TBTE PCIe Gen 4 NVMe

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storage drive comes in. This gives [music] us plenty of space for both our

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operating system and whatever games or files we want quick access to. It also

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features a DRAM cache to help aid with both performance and longevity. What

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drive did we order, you ask? Well, the one we ordered and paid $150 for was a

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Gigabyte Aoris 7300, but the Amazon

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seller shipped us a Samsung 990 Pro. So,

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uh, thanks for the unfraud.

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Let's get our armor removed from our motherboard. This handy toolless little

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latch right here. And now we're presented with three options for our

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slots. A, B, and C. We chose B. Why, you

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ask? Well, slot C is not connected directly to our CPU, which can

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occasionally lead to bottlenecks. And as for A, it runs at Gen 5 speeds. This is

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not a Gen 5 drive, so we might as well leave that free for potentially a future

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faster drive that we want to install down the line. If you've ever put in an

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M.2 to NVMe drive before. They all install basically the same way. Push the

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SSD into this slot here at a little bit of an angle. Then secure it to the post

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on the other end. This used to be mostly done with tiny little screws that are

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lots of fun to lose, but many modern motherboards use newfangled toolless

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mechanisms like this one. Then just go ahead and remove any protective covering

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over the thermal pad that's on the bottom of your motherboard armor. Slot

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it back into place. And Bob's your uncle. Hi, Uncle Bob.

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Now it's time to keep Mr. CPU cool with yet another recommendation for the only

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heat sink company that seems to matter right now. Thermal right. The Phantom

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Spirit 120SE is a dual tower 7 heat pipe

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[music] beast that includes two fans, quality thermal compound, and a robust

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mounting mechanism. How is this thing only $40? I'm not mad. I just I don't

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get it. Step the first. Remove the stock mounting bracket from your motherboard.

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Step the second, grab the AM4 and also AM5 mounting brackets, red spacers, and

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associated screws. Step the third, do

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all of this stuff.

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It's worth noting, by the way, if you buy a different cooler, these steps may

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[music] vary. The manual is your friend. Now it's time to apply some thermal

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paste. If you're not sure if you're using enough, there's an easy way to

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check. Just put your cooler on, tighten it down usually until the screws bottom

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out, then take it back off. You'll be able to see if you've got good coverage

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of your CPU. At this point, it's fine to either top up or just leave it and put

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the cooler back on. With our hunk of metal strapped on, next we're going to

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attach our fans with these spring clips. Make sure that your cables are coming

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out the side nearest to your motherboard power header. This is going to make it a

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little bit easier to manage later. Our unit came with a PWM fan splitter so we

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can plug both of our fans into one header. We're going to go ahead and use

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that. And we're also going to daisy chain together our RGB leads before

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plugging both of those into the motherboard and then tucking all of the cables away

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under the heat sink. Make sure that they don't stick out into your fan blades,

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though. Then you're going to have a pretty bad time. Next up, if a motherboard's a home, then a case is a

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community.

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>> [snorts and laughter] >> This metaphor is spread thinner than thermal compound at this point. But

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anywh who, doesn't matter. The point is, what better community for a kuck like me

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than the Fractal North? With Fractal focused on promoting their new epoch

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line, the North can sometimes be found on sale, and there's no shame in saving

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a few bucks on a lastg beauty like this one. It comes in white or black with

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either a tempered glass or mesh side panel and is delightfully easy to build

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in with modern features like rubber grommets around the cable cutouts, cable

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management channels and tie downs and front USBC.

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Let's remove the side panels by loosening the captive thumb screws and

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pulling the panels back and away. This

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gives us access to the case accessories box that Fractal cleverly stores in one

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of the 3 and 1/2 in hard drive sleds. The first thing that we're going to need

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from here is eight of these more coarsely threaded 632 mounting screws

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for our motherboard. We're going to pop the top mesh off to make our wiring job

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a little bit easier later. Then we're going to lay our case down flat with the

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pre-installed ATX standoffs facing up.

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Next, grab your motherboard either by the cooler or the edges of the PCB and

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ease it gently onto the standoffs. I like to go in at a bit of an angle like

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this, lining up the IO shield first. Whatever you do, make sure never to

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scratch or scrape the back of the board against the standoffs. That is one of

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the most common ways that people can damage their hardware. With your

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screwdriver, perhaps a colored transparent one from ltstore.com,

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tighten down the eight screws that we grabbed earlier. With our motherboard in

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place, we can plug in our USBC header here, our USB 3 type A header here, our

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front audio here, and the rest of our front panel headers down here. If you

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think you're going to hook up any SATA SSDs or hard drives in the future, this

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is a great time to run any SATA data cables that you might need for them.

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Just plug them into your motherboard right here and then run them either to

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those drive sleds where we got our accessories box or to these 2 and 1/2 in

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caddies on the back. Future you is going to thank you. The last things we need to

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plug in are our case fans. Now, mostly

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doesn't matter what it says on the label next to the header. The speed curve and

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the temperature can usually be reconfigured in the UFI BIOS, but to

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make life simpler, I usually try to use case or system headers for my case fans.

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These ones right here will do nicely. Nice looking build, eh? Time to add some

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juice to our community. We're committed

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at this point. Let's call it the power station. CIC's Focus GXV4 750 watt gold

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power supply is a great choice for this build. We've been partnering with CSIC

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for almost as long as their 10-year transferable warranty. A warranty they

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can stand behind thanks in part to the fluid dynamic fan bearing in their fans,

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which are extremely reliable and generate less noise and heat than

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traditional ball bearings. That combined with their patented hybrid silent fan

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control means you can trust a C-SI power supply to stay both cool and quiet.

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Also, thanks to our Labs testing on power supply circuit, I can personally

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promise you this is a fantastic unit. Check them out at the link down below.

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We really can't recommend Conic enough. As for the capacity that we chose, the

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750 W unit stood out because like so

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many of our choices today, it's more than enough for an efficient gaming CPU

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and a solid GPU. And also, we were on a budget and it was on sale. Our case

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gives us a flexible mounting plate, so we can install this puppy whichever way

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we want. I'm going to go with the fan intaking from the bottom, but if you

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have a high pile carpet that risks suffocating it that way, you may want to

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flip it around. Attach the mounting plate to the power supply. Then plug in

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all of the cables you're going to need. Two 8 pin EPS connectors, although

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technically one will do. One 24 pin ATX power connector, a single 12vt 2x6

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connector for our GPU, and a string of SATA power connectors for the future.

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Bundle up all of those cables and pull them and your power supply through the

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back of [music] the case like so. The SATA power we're just going to tuck

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underneath, but everything else can be pulled through our cable management channels and cutouts like so. The 24 pin

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is keyed, so there is no way to install it backwards. Oh, okay. It can be done,

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but please don't position it like so and press down firmly until it's seated. You

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should hear a subtle click as the little latch slips into place. Next up is our

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CPU power. These can go around the side and then up through these cutouts at the

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top. This can be a little bit tricky to do after the fact with big air coolers

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though. So, a cool hack if you have a modular power supply is to install those

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earlier, but I forgot to do that. I did

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forget to do that. As I noted before, a single 8 pin here would be totally fine

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if we're not extreme overclocking. But the second four pin won't hurt anything

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and the extra pins can just hang over the side. Finally, we're at the 12vt

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2x6, which we're going to put here

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because first we need our GPU. You can think of the GPU as kind of like the

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community's entertainment center. And we've gone with NVIDIA's RTX 5070 Ti, a

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16 gig card that is unfortunately the

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best option at this price point. It wasn't an easy choice, to be honest. You

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might have noticed this is the same GPU from our $1,600 build just a couple of

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months ago. But with the way that pricing has gone lately, particularly on

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memory, by the time we speced out the rest of a balanced system, we felt like

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leveling up to an RTX 5080 would result in compromises elsewhere that just

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weren't worth the trade-off. But what about AMD? Well, unfortunately, AMD kind

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of skipped doing an enthusiast tier GPU this generation. You could go back a gen

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and buy a seen XTX if you want the extra VRAM, but those are going for $8 or $900

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at the time of writing. Performance is pretty similar to the 5070 Ti that we're

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using. And AMD just announced that their machine learning accelerated upscaling

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FSR4 Redstone will not be coming to the

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7900 series. So, if you like the latest technologies like ray tracing and

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upscaling, team green kind of has the market cornered at this price point.

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With our rationale out of the way, let's remove the appropriate PCIe slot covers,

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these two. Then line up the gold teeth with the top PCIe x16 slot. Once you

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think it's in place, give a firm little push. You might hear a click or you

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might not. So do a quick visual inspection of the lock at the back of

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the slot and the bottom of the rear PCI

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bracket to make sure that everything is seated. Then screw it down. Our last

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step is to grab that power cable we left hanging and plug it into our graphics

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card like so. Time to fire it up. She

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booted. So finishing touch.

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I love the way Fractal does a light tinting on their glass. It looks so

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classy. You want to start at 1440p or should we go right to 4K? We can game at

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4K on this card. Why don't we do that? Oh, we have the new Ano. I haven't tried

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this yet. Ah, Ubisoft connect. Curse

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you. All right. Press any key to start the game. Oh, dude. Upscaling off. Wow.

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Defaults to just like max everything. Cool. Now, I heard these are AI and this

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looks [ __ ] terrible.

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This one looks okay. That last one looked like garbage.

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All right. Oh, sick. Oh, dude. Ruinous dice hall.

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Sanctuary of 71. Honestly, doesn't look

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that much better than 1800. Actually,

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maybe environment's a little richer. Yeah. Ooh, lighting a little better.

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We're getting anywhere from 30 to 40 FPS, which at 4K absolutely cranked in

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this game. She's a bit of a heavy mama. Very

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comfortable with that. And more importantly,

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super reasonable noise level. That's

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what a giant dual tower cooler will do for you. Honestly, I think we could even

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turn the fans down a little bit. Our GPU is at 66° and our CPU is at just 76. Wo

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wo [ __ ] diagonal roads. What is this

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black magic [ __ ] >> Okay, >> wait. What the

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[ __ ] is this? Three [ __ ] roads with one intersection.

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>> My brain is broken. Okay, I'm turning it off. I'm turning it off. They want me to

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try a different game. I don't know how to deal with this right now. Okay, let's

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play some Cyberpunk. I haven't looked at DLSS that closely in a while, and I got

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to say, I um if you didn't tell me it was on, I probably wouldn't know it was

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on right now. With that said, quality is already rendering at a pretty decent

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resolution, and I'm only getting about 37 FPS, which is fine for me while I'm

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cruising around the city in my stolen cop car, but not ideal if I was going to

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be in a firefight. So, let's go ahead and tune our settings a little bit here. Let's turn off rate tracing and see what

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it looks like. And solved.

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Now, we're above 50 FPS, which using variable refresh rate is a very playable

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frame rate for a non-competitive title. And I don't know, rate tracing is cool,

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but also like man, what a nice little machine. Like

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nice quick game launches and like yeah, $2,000 is a lot of money, but like this

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is a sick computer. I'll be the meat

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shield for my helper guy here. Uh, okay.

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There's smoke. Smoke is good, right? Oh, dude. No, I I recognize this map. This

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is old map, right? What map is this? Oh [ __ ] Oh [ __ ] Oh [ __ ] Oh [ __ ] Oh,

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hey, I helped. I helped. Hey, I gave 170

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damage and I'm getting 250 FPS at 4K,

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probably completely maxed out. What a great gaming rig. As I mentioned in the

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intro, yeah, the PC industry is in a pretty rough spot right now, but as you

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can see, if you build your own system, you can still get a lot of computer for

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this budget. And if you're spending your money wisely, you'll be gaming at high

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settings for many Steam summer sales to come. If you've made it this far and

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you're not sure if building a system is right for you, we did happen to find a

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similarly spec pre-built over on Newegg for about the same price. You might miss

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out on some creature comforts like a really nice case like this one and a

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DRAM cache on the SSD, but that's also a perfectly chromulent choice. Thanks

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again to CIC for sponsoring this video. We're going to have a link to their

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power supplies as well as all the parts that we used today down in the video

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description. If you guys enjoyed this video, why not check out the last

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firsterson view build guide we did? The parts are a little different. It's a

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little older, but it's a great way to familiarize yourself with the steps from

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the same perspective that you'll have when you're actually building.

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Oh, I'm gaming. I forgot. See you later.
