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When I first saw the Umbrella Arcades wall-mounted arcade machine, I had to

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have it. I mean, there's the sleek design. There's the fact that you've got

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any retro game you could want at your fingertips. The fact it doesn't take up

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any floor space. But the price, $4,400,

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$1,800 for the shell. It's some bent sheet metal. Yeah. How is this thing so

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expensive? I feel like anyone with some spare time and some tools could probably

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make one themselves. I've got some tools and some spare time or paid time.

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Okay, fine. But here's the deal. You

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can't use any exotic tools. Basically, if you couldn't borrow it from your

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boomer neighbor, you're not allowed to use it. And you have to include an

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hourly wage in your cost because your time isn't free. Okay. But if I pull it

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off, it gets to live on the line set for a month. What? You heard me. Okay. What

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the What a weird handshake. Deal. Like this deal we made with our sponsor,

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first pair by using our link down below.

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I want to take on Umbrella's high-end model. They're using a Nookstyle

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computer with a Ryzen 7. We can easily match or beat that. Construction-wise,

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it's just a bunch of sheet metal with holes punched in and bent it in shape.

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All we got to do is throw in a monitor, speakers, controls, and I guess figure

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out how to hang it on the wall and we're good to go. I'd love to just do this whole thing out of wood in like a couple

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hours and call it a day, but that's not really the point of the series. We're

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trying to remake this thing we found as close as we can to the original style

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and you know learn some new things as we go. You can't use any exotic tools

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because I don't have a welder though. Joining all the metal together is not

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going to be that easy. So I think we're still going to have to use some wood like here on the side panels and then

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we'll screw the rest of the metal into that wood. The control panel electronics

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we can just get online. I'll order them. They'll show up later. Actually mounting

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them is going to be a little tricky because we can't use the laser cutter. You can't use I'm thinking we'll have to

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use either a hole saw or maybe we've got a big enough step bit, something like

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that. We'll see when we get to it. The thing we can't get around is we're going

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to have to bend metal, but I've got just the thing for that. The rules say I can

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buy one special tool as long as it's within reach of you guys following along

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at home. This is a sheet metal brake, and you can get it at places like Harbor

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Freight. It's not cheap by any means, but it's not expensive compared to our

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$4,400 arcade machine. And once we're done with it, we can throw it on

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marketplace and get some of our money back. Let's go check out the metal we're

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actually going to be working with. This is 18 gauge steel. It's uh 2

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ft x 4 ft. And that's actually going to impact our design choices a little bit.

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Let me explain. 2 ft is going to be too narrow for two players to stand at, but

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the 4ft width of our metal is definitely too wide. I think we're going to hit

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somewhere around 30 in. And we'll do some cutting. I think our best bet is to

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make our wooden sides and frame first and then we'll adjust the metal to fit

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that. I'm going to recruit Justin to help for a little while here. He's better with the metal work than me,

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too. We've cut our MDF down to a more manageable size. And now I'm going to

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start drawing the silhouette down on the wood so we know where to cut. I'm doing

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a little bit of designing on the go here because I don't want to have any lengths

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that are greater than 24 in because of the size of our metal panels. This is a

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bevel gauge. I'm using it to copy the angles from my drawing onto the wood.

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This one's pretty ancient, but you can still get these in literally any

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hardware shop for like 10, 20 bucks. I think you can see this starting to take

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shape now. Uh the monitor will be up here. The controls are going to be here

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with lots of room under here for wiring. I think under here I want to leave room

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for a drawer so we can put in our keyboard and mouse and maybe a couple of

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wireless PlayStation controllers, something like that. Draw a little line

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down to the bottom here. It's not too long for our sheet metal. And we can

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start

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cutting. The two layers of MDF is a little bit much for this little jigsaw,

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but I'd rather get both pieces cut the same way at the same time rather than

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trying to make it even later.

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I'm cutting a little bit outside the lines here cuz I can follow it up later on with a router bit and get it

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perfectly smooth. What are you doing? L said we could use the bandsaw. Oh yeah.

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Why am I doing this? A bandsaw does a lot of the same job as a jigsaw, just a

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lot more efficiently. And every boomer has a band saw

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anyway. Okay, I think you can see the the basic shape we're going for here.

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All we need to do now is clean it up a little bit and then we can start working on the metal. We got a flush trim bit in

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our router here. And this will basically ride along this bearing on this hunk of

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plywood we've attached here as a straight edge. And it'll make this edge

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perfectly smooth. Here we have our two sides. Uh we'll have to a little bit

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more clean up later on, but don't worry about that right now. Uh the last thing

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we'll end up doing is a slot right along the edge here. And that'll be for some

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molding later on to heat everything up at the end. I'm just marking about a/ an

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inch in from the edge. And that's where our metal is going to end up in the end.

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We could cut our metal with these tin snips, but 18 gauge is a little bit

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thick for that. And while we were picking up our sheet metal brake, we

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happened to see these air nippers on sale for about 30 bucks Canadian. So,

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we're going to go with that. It's going to be way easier. Our goal is to have 30

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in wide, but we're going to add on an inch on either side of that to have

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little tabs on each of the I guess we'll call them side edges of our metal. We're

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going to have, I think, three tabs that will bend over and they'll screw into

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our wood panels. Um, we're just kind of

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figuring out exactly where to lay them out. And then we'll, uh, get cutting.

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Again, I don't remember what this is called, but we're going to use this to

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bend our tabs. So, we're basically going to just measure in a couple inches from

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the end, put our clamp in place, and then mark on either side of

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it.

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Right now, this is still pretty floppy. We're going to fold over an edge on each

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side, and that's going to give us a lot more

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rigidity there.

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So, our next one. I think we can do this whole piece as one, right? Yeah. Let's

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just do a little

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piece. Little more if it's possible. I don't know if it

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is. Yeah, that's good. This is T- molding. It'll go around all the edges

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here once we're done. I'm just making sure I've got this relatively lined up.

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Oh, that's

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perfect. I'm just assembling the side panels with some MDF bracing. This is

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also 30 in across, so it'll be the same as our panels when we're done with them.

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And uh this will give us a little bit more rigidity in the back without having to do a bunch more metal.

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Sorry. He's not

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sorry. I've got the panel for the monitor here. Let's uh see if it

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fits. Good work, Justin. We're at the end of day one, so let's kind of check

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in where we are here. Our MDF sides, those are good. Happy with that. Uh

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metal panels, the one for the monitor is mostly here. We got to cut a hole in it,

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but that's easy enough. The control panel, Justin's got that about 3/4 of

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the way done, I would say, for the the mounting. So, I mean, we're going to

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cross those off just because I have to cross something off. Uh, tomorrow we got

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to build a drawer to go underneath the control panel. That's for our keyboard

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and mouse and everything. And then we'll deal with a plate underneath that. We'll

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check in with Pancrats for a PC, figure out all our electronics, and eventually

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we'll show this thing to Linus. It's day two, and uh while we're waiting for

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Justin to get here, we're just going to put some screws into the wood frame to

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beef it up a little bit. It's important to pre-drill the holes so we don't split

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the wood. And we're also using a bit of a counter synink here. So the screws will end up below the surface of the

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wood. That way we can maybe put on some fill afterwards to make it nice and

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smooth. Justin's using this map gas torch. You'll find this in the plumbing

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section of any Home Depot. He's heating up the metal and bending over our tab so

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we can attach it onto the wooden frame. I'm going to use this 1x6 to build a

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French cleat mounting system.

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How this works is we stick this up against the wall and then the arcade

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machine will just hang right off of it. And because we cut it at the same time, it's a perfect

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alignment. So, something like that. I got these templates from a site called

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slagcoin.com. We got a bunch of different options. This is kind of a

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generic version of a typical Japanese arcade machine. And I found this to be

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pretty comfortable for my own use. So, that's what we're going to go with. So, now I just got to cut some holes.

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First things first, uh we're going to drill some pilot holes. So, that way we can use our step drill bit here, which

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will allow us to drill the holes for this.

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What we do, yeah, is just hold it in place where we want it. We're going to

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temporarily install our first couple of panels here. We think that's going to make it a little easier to drill our

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control panel out. It's a little tough to get to our screws from the top. So,

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we flip this up on its side. And it's still, you know, a little awkward as you

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can see here. A little snug, but with an extension and a bit of patience, it's

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going in.

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Okay. Okay. So, this I'm thinking is the

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kick plate. So, the bottom. Yeah. And the drawer we'll figure out to fit in

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the middle with our last piece. Or else even the sunk of scrap maybe. We'll see.

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Little more under 90, but like probably

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75. We grabbed this old ASUS ProArt monitor from Logistics. It's not in

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great shape, but it'll do 1440 at 60 Hz, which is really all we need to do. And I

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can find it for about 100 bucks on eBay, which is a good bonus. I'm thinking we

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put in a shelf to hold the monitor. Something like that. And then we can

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just use the two ball joints in the monitor arm to position the monitor to

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fit our

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hole. Our monitor fits quite nicely in

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here.

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There. And then flip her up onto the floor again. We're doing good. Now what?

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Drawer. Yeah. This piece here will be our front

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panel for the drawer. These are the sides and this is the back. Meaning that

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we need to get rid of this big chunk here,

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here, this hole by

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here. So, in terms of physical

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construction, probably 90% of the way there. We have to do the electronics.

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That's going to be just a bunch of wiring, but it's pretty much Lego. Uh

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the PC, we actually had two options delivered earlier today. We haven't had

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a chance to look at them yet. Turn everything on, see if we can play some games and show it to Linus and, you

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know, maybe paint it and make it look a little bit less ugly. We bought two

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packs of these Sana 30 mil buttons. They're the same ones that are being

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used by the Umbrella Arcades machine.

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You may have noticed this is upside down right now, but there's a good reason for

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that is we're about to drill out for the joysticks. Before we get to that, I just

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want to show you the drawer slots we put in here on either side. And our metal

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drawer is just going to ride along those. And inside there, we can put our

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PC and our keyboard and extra controllers, all that kind of fun stuff.

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So, it's easy to access. Don't have to pull off any panels or anything to do

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any changes. These are sand joysticks as well that came along with our buttons as

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a set. And we just need four bolts to

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hold them into our control panel. We're still waiting for the

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proper bolts to arrive. Those will have no cut in the top so they be nice and

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smooth. But for now, these will work fine. Each of our joystick kits pairs

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with one of these little control boards. Basically, it's just a little USB

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controller. We plug our wire into one

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end and the other end goes to each one of the buttons. I think it looks like an

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arcade machine. Let's see if it

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works. Yeah, that happened. We're using our magnetic cable management essential

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solution, ltdstore.com, to connect our control

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boards right onto our metal housing. Conveniently

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magnetic. Obviously, we're going to need a computer to run this thing. So, we had

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David give us a couple of options. Oh, not that David. This is uh David

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Pancrret. He's our new uh technical production assistant. Something like

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that. Yeah, that's the one. Perfect. What do you got for us? Uh I've got two

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options here. Okay. Uh we've got the Raspberry Pi 5 and this has a hat on it

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so you can stick an NVMe drive in there. Beautiful. We've got a 4 TB drive in

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here right now, which is a bit overkill. You could drop that down to a two TB and

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save about a h 100red bucks. But this package as it is is about

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$375. That's not too bad. Okay, if you want a little bit more power, we've got

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the Minis Forum UM970 Pro. All right.

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Uh, this one has a two TB drive in it right now and 16 gigs of RAM. And this

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package would end up costing you about 525. Okay, that's not too bad either,

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actually. I'm kind of surprised. Uh, how much time would it take you to set them

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up? Honestly, it was a lot more

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difficult downloading the image off of the site in terms of time. Uh once

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you've got the image off the site, it was as easy as using Etcher to image the

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drives over and then you were pretty much good to go. Perfect. Thank you very

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much for your help. Yeah, not a problem. All right. I'm only going to pay for one

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of these. By the way, I guess we kicked out Pancrrets a little early. We needed

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his help to uh get everything running again here. But now we're looking great.

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Obviously, we need some spit and polish get on the machine, but uh I think we're

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going to do that as a bit of a montage for you guys. And next time you see this, Linus will be evaluating

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it. All

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right, here's what we did.

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Damn. You like it?

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Way more than I expected to.

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Thanks. Don't take that the wrong way. Don't take that the wrong way. We used

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magnetic cable management for our handles.

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Are they attached or are they just No, they're just magnet. They're just Wow.

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Everything magnet. What? I don't get it.

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It's a reference. Two. Except for the parts that are computer.

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Dear God. Um, is that blood? No, that's paint.

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Cool. Well, okay. Here's your coins. First player, second player. Your

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starts. Are those just the monitors builtin

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speakers? No, there's speakers in the back of the Logitech.

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I actually kind of like how they sound. They're an appropriate level of

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Yeah. Yeah, cuz there's no grills, so they've got kind of like a boommy crappy

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sound to them, but it's very arcadey. Well, this

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is great for just quickly navigating. So, uh, how do we go to the Ooh, this is

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a nice interface. This is just a different skin on the same front end,

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though, right? It's still It's still better, but it's like their default interface.

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Oh, balls. Look, it's hard. It is designed

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to steal my quarters. I gotta say in terms of the actual user experience now

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that it is complete because

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obviously it was a little bit more work to

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build. This does not feel meaningfully that different. Do I get to guess what

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the budget was? What did you guys pay yourselves per hour? Uh 30 bucks US an

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hour. $30 an hour. I think you were

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still able to beat them by just over $1,000.

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All right. I think you guys are probably around 3,300 to 3,400 US. Oh, you're way

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over. Really? How long did this take to build? This took 22 29 hours really of

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actual labor. That's pretty good. Couple of weekends basically. Did that include

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all of the software configuration because they've got more games on theirs

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than we have? I have a full name set on there, sir. Our total was $24.44 and 59.

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So, we beat it by two grand pretty much.

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Wow. I see that two different ways. Okay. I see that as wow, we could build

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something that is functionally very similar for half the price and have the

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fun of learning how to do it for ourselves while paying ourselves $30 an

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hour to do it. But I also see it as okay, so basically we're paying them two

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grand to figure everything out for us pretty much and for whatever level of

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support they're going to give you. So, the only question that remains then is

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buy or DIY. And you're the only ones who

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can answer this for us. Which would you rather have? This for

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$2,500 or this for

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$4,400? Well, go leave a comment. And

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features. If you guys enjoyed this video, why not go check out the short

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circuit video that we did on the Umbrella Arcade? We found some really

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good things about it and we found some not so good things for what they're

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charging. They could have included better controllers like Jordan did in

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his build.