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whenu Falls

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all will build it once again

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AMD's new cavar architecture apus

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feature not only a quadcore CPU on board

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but 47% of the die area is actually

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taken up by a seriously powerful direct X11 graphics processor that uses a

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scaled down version of the same gcn architecture that you'll find on their

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desktop Radeon series graphics cards now you might be asking yourself um why does

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it matter that I have a powerful graphics processor on my CPU why do I

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need an APU to which I would reply in this case HSA or heterogeneous system

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architecture this is in a nutshell the ability of the processor to treat both

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its CPU cores and integrated Graphics

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processing cores as equals that can work

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together rather than two separate things that basically work independently and

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communicate with each other over the relatively slow PCI Express bus now with

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HSA those two processors can even access

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the same system memory in order to achieve perfect collaboration and while

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we'll need software to play catchup a little bit before the majority of your

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programs are optimized for HSA the performance benefits that can be

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realized are very significant and with

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all of that in mind it is time for a build guide featuring this exciting

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processor that marks the first availability of HSA Hardware so let's

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start off our rationale with the Apu just as a reminder an APU contains both

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a CPU component and a GPU component so

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I'll start with the CPU part with its Steamroller cores cavar doesn't

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dramatically improve raw CPU performance

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over AMD's last generation Richland products but what it does do is it

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delivers much lower power consumption without losing any performance and while

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adding some very important technologies that establish AMD's leadership position

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in HSA Hardware I mean I guess when you're the first one to actually deliver

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something to the market that sets you up pretty well for that leader title moving

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on to the GPU the onboard Graphics this

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is not your grandpa's onboard Graphics though I mean I mean well if your

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grandpa had onboard Graphics then maybe there were something pretty special

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actually since your grandpa's obviously the doctor but but see seriously the gcn

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architecture of Cav's integrated GPU means that you get access to some

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serious performance and features aside from directx11 which I mentioned already

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is AMD's mantle API that actually allows

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game developers to better optimize their games to make the most of the CPU power

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they have available with a well optimized game we can expect to unlock

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some serious performance improvements over direct X11 with mantle stay tuned

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for The Benchmark section next next up is AMD's true audio DSP or digital sound

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processor a piece of technology that could revolutionize the way in-game

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audio is handled by game engines in the long term in games rather than relying

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on cheap software tricks to achieve echos and other spatial effects true

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audio allows sound to bounce realistically off of objects accurately

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according to the player surroundings and outside of games the applications of

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this technology include things like cleaning background noise out of voice

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recordings and much much more and all of this is without using up valuable CPU

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Cycles then finally there's dual Graphics or the ability to basically run

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your onboard Graphics in crossfire with a supported desktop graphics card for

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tangible performance improvements we'll be showing you this one running in

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tandem with an r7250 later on in the

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video which leads us to memory in AMD's

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internal testing they found that 8 gigs

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is the sweet spot where most people unless you're doing content creation or

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some other kind of serious usage are not using more than that and I will agree

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with that up front but they also found that in addition to dual Channel DDR

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3600 MHz they are finding a benefit all

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the way up to 2400 mahz dual Channel

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DDR3 memory so I went with G skills

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Aries 2400 megahertz uh 2x4 gig kit for

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this particular build not because I necessarily believe them right off the

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bat but because I want to take this system when we're done and do a little

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bit of validation and find out if it's worth the extra couple bucks as for why

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we went with g-skill RAM um on our test benches we found that it just plain

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Works across a very wide variety of motherboards to an extent that we don't

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see from any other manufacturers so I've

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never actually showcased them on the channel before I figured we might as well do that because it's something that

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we do use intern and having RAM that just plane operates

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as intended is pretty

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invaluable for the motherboard we went with an ASRock fm2 a88x Extreme 6 Plus

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and honestly there's not much of a rationale here I wasn't particularly

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picky about the motherboard for this build the most important thing was to

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make sure I was getting one that is fm2

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plus as opposed to fm2 fm2 plus CPUs are

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not backwards compatible with fm2 boards

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whereas fm2 plus boards will work just fine with fm2 CPUs so make sure that

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your retailer has fm2 versus fm2 plus boards clearly marked and if you're not

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sure double check the manufacturer's website now there's a wide variety

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available from all the usual subects and you'll find fancy features on some of

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the boards versus other ones but fm2 Bloss boards will have at least the

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following features in common number one trim support on ssds running in raid

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zero that's a nice little performance feature right there number two is

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support for DDR3 up to 2400 MHz

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operating in dual Channel mode although overclocking might get you a little bit

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more this particular one supports up to 2600 MHz with overclocking number three

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is support for up to four displays off the onboard graphics on that cavar Apu

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that you've got and number four again

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powered by the onboard Graphics is support for 4K video output for cooling

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we went with the Cooler Master hyper T4

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which is actually AMD optimized out of the box which is kind of unusual these

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days there were no awkward adapters or anything like that and it's got a nice

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large fan all at a very aggressive price

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we could use the Box CPU Cooler but this

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one will give us some cooling head room for the overclocking tests later on and

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it's going to run quieter as a whole now storage is always so personal normally I

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say get a wd blue or a Kingston v300 but

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I actually have to leave off my traditional v300 recommendation since

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Kingston recently changed the flash that they're using on that drive so crucial's

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M500 series and Samsung's 840 Evo series

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are both fantastic value oriented options as a replacement for my usual

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v300 recommendation I think most people

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in this price range will choose the capacity of a hard drive over the speed

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of an SSD when it comes to storage but another alternative is always grabbing

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an SSD now and kind of living with the small storage for a while then adding a

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hard drive for bulk storage later it's all just going to depend on your budget

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and your upgrade schedule now the graphics card is a very optional part of

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this build and something that I would consider more like an upgrade later

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because we were going for a very value optimized system when we put together

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the initial list but this r7250 is capable of running in dual

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Graphics mode with the onboard GPU so that's effectively like like Crossfire

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between your dedicated and your integrated graphics and we will show you

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what you can achieve by doing this particular upgrade later on in the

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future by running some benchmarks for you in the conclusion of the video our

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case is the source 210 Elite from NZXT

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it doesn't have many Frills but it looks pretty nice and it acts as a solid

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enclosure for our power supply we've gone with a cic ss400 ET which in my

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mind is pretty much the only power supply that matters for the entry level

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I mean okay it comes in a couple of different you know wattages but it's

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it's all basically the same thing they're quiet they have 80 plus bronze

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certification and seic as a manufacturer

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has a fantastic reputation not to mention they're very inexpensive for our

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OSS we're going with Windows 8 because Windows 8 so now it's time for the

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actual building first step is to start with a safe static free workstation and

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an anti-static strap I like to keep mine on my ankle so that it stays out of my

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way while I'm trying to work all we really need for assembly of a modern

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computer is a multi-bit screwdriver I like to use a magnetic one because it

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doesn't do any damage to the components and if you drop a screw somewhere or

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whatever else it allows you to dig it out of there without being more

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difficult than it has to be now I always recommend putting the system together

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once outside of the case to ensure that

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everything works while it's nice and easy to get at the motherboard BL makes

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a handy non-conductive test bench don't

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use the antistatic bag that's in the motherboard on top of it though once you

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power on the board some of these bags have conductive outer Coatings and can

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actually short out your motherboard so we'll start with CPU installation

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carefully remove both the the CPU and the stock heat sink from the box the

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pins on the CPU are very very fragile so

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be extremely careful especially with those next lift up the retention ARM on

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your motherboard align the triangle on

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the corner of the CPU with the triangle on the corner of the socket place the

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CPU into the socket don't push on it and

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then push down the retention ARM that's pretty much it grab the thermal compound

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that is incl uted with your hyper T4 cooler if you were using the stock heat

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sink you could just use the thermal compound that is pre-applied to that

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then put a line down the middle of the heat spreader it's a bit bigger for AMD

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CPUs than it is for their competitor CPUs because their heat spreaders are a

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little bit larger next up what you're going to do is grab all the mounting

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hardware comes in a big bag like this from your CPU Heat snc box and grab your

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memory you'll need both of those for this step well one of them anyway your

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memory goes in now because the hyper T4

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overhangs the memory slots to the point where you won't be able to install

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memory in all the slots once you've installed your cooler so for dual

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Channel operation consult the manual of your motherboard but go ahead and

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install them in what would normally be colorcoded slots but in the case of this

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particular ASRock board is just going to be the ones that are spaced out from

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each other whenever installing DDR3 memory open up the tabs align the memory

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being careful of The Notches carefully place it in then once

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it's positioned correctly push down firmly on both sides until The Notches

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click back into place on their own once that's done this big bag of Hardware

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that I said you'd need H you don't actually need it I'm sorry I lied to you

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guys all you need because this cooler mounts natively on AMD is this hold down

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ARM that's it so we're going to position our fan so that it is blowing air up

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towards the top of the case then we're going to go ahead and run this through

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the bottom position it in the little sort of

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mini heat sink at the bottom with the slot in the middle accepting the little

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notch in the retention bar place it onto the CPU latch on the

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one side that doesn't have a plastic retention clip then latch it onto the

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other side there we go and and tension it boom

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just like that next up last step here is

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take that lead for the CPU fan go ahead and tie it into a nice little knot or

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tuck it away somewhere in a corner preferably both and then plug that four

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pin connector into the four pin pwm fan

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connector on the motherboard itself labeled CPU fan

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one your CPU RAM and heat sink they're

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all done when you take your case out of the the box I recommend taking the

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packing materials and putting them safely away in the box that way if you

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ever have to ship your system somewhere or otherwise transport it you're going

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to know where those packing materials are and your case box is a great place

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to put the boxes for your other components like your motherboard CPU Etc

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just in case you have to send any of them back for a warranty exchange at any

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point you can pour store them all in there put them in the Attic or whatever else so the first step is to open up the

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side panel this case uses thumb screws so you can go ahead and take those out

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with your fingers if not there are of course screw slots in the back for a

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Phillips head screwdriver you can use your screwdriver instead take off that

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left side panel go ahead put

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that in the case box as well that way it'll stay safe and it won't get knocked

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over or scratched when you're in the process of building your machine I

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recommend doing the same thing with the other side panel the first step whenever

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you open up any case is to do a quick sanity check have a look is the manual

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there good as long as manuals there you can check and find out what other

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Hardware was supposed to be included Your Case should come with all of the

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hardware that you need to install all of your components inside of it installing

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the io shield in a modern case is pretty simple you just go ahead and make sure

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that you've got the top side up and you'll be able to tell on this one

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because the PS2 and USB ports are going to be at the top and this is true of

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most of them the audio ports will be at the bottom go ahead and position it

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approximately correctly then press on all four Four

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Corners until they have all snapped into place and it doesn't come out anymore

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now retail power supplies will come with a bunch of extras like installation

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screws and some cable management stuff but even though our power supply is

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completely o it comes in a little baggy we have that stuff anyway because it

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comes with your case so this one comes with some zip ties as well as the four

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hex screws we're going to need to install our power supply so next up we

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just need to choose our orientation you can either have the fan up so it's

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drawing air away from the inside of the system and exhausting it out the back or

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you can have fan side down because in this case there's a ventilation hole

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down there so the fan actually keeps its own heat and the Heat of the other

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components completely separate making it its own little Thermal Zone and the

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other advantage of this orientation is that usually the cables come out this

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side and that puts it closer to the motherboard tray for easier Cable

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Management so we're going to go fan side down the one thing to watch out for if

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you have your fan down is that you put your case onto a hard surface such as a

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hardwood or laminate floor because if you put it on a carpet and the feet at

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the bottom of the case sink in you could be suffocating your power supply and

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causing it to overheat from lack of air flow once it's positioned go ahead and

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screw in the four screws in the only spots where they

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go and you have successfully installed the power supply my

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friend and it's already time to mount the motherboard in the case first first

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things first you're going to want to find your standoffs ncxt has done

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something here that I actually haven't seen before and they've got some steel

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content in their standoffs meaning that when you use their little tool which is

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an adapter from a Phillips head screwdriver to a socket for your

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standoffs you don't actually lose the magnetic effect of your screwdriver so

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normally cases include brass standoffs so the adapter's magnetic but the

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standoffs themselves fall out when you try to use them but NZXT doesn't do that

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so we're going to install the standoffs in the nine locations required for a

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standard ATX board here on the back of the motherboard tray then to make our

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lives a little bit easier we're going to lay down our

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case position the motherboard carefully

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above the standoffs making sure not to scrape it I recommend holding the

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motherboard by the heat sink that you've already

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installed slide it back towards the io

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shield and then once you have positioned it carefully above the standoffs go

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ahead and put in the one Middle Screw so that it doesn't shift around then you

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can let go and put in the rest of the screws hard drive installation for that

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you're going to need two of the utility screws that come in the bag full of lots

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of screws with your case I mean that's that's sort of the bulk of them they use

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the same threading as a standard case screw but they just have a slightly

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different head then all you do is grab your hard drive now okay this is a 500

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gig one that was all our props Department was able to find but we really do recommend the terabyte one for

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its better uh capacity to price ratio go

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ahead and pop one of the toolless hard drive mounting pieces off of the case by

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turning it counter clockwise Slide the hard drive into basically whichever Bay

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you would like uh it's best to have it next to somewhere that a fan is mounted

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if there are any fans in your case but this one doesn't come with any and we haven't invested in any additional fans

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so it doesn't really matter the one thing I would think about is how close

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the connectors are to the SATA ports on your motherboard as well as how you're

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going to out your power cable to the back of the drive itself go ahead and

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take your toolless mounting mechanism pop that back into the holes on the

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drive turn it clockwise then if you're

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concerned about the drive going anywhere even though the tooless mounting

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mechanism is enough if your power is just going to sit next to your table I

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usually recommend throwing a couple screws into the other side just in

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case and once you're finished that your hard drive is mounted so with most of

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the hardware for the system actually installed at this point we're ready to

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plug in our front panel connectors we're going to start with USB 3 the pins are

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very fragile so don't force it but good news it's keyed on the one side so it

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only goes in one way next up we have our

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front connectors for the power reset power LED and drive activity LED for

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power and reset the orientation doesn't matter just make sure you get the uh the

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leads on the correct pins but but for the hard drive LED as well as the power

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led the positive pin has to correspond to the positive lead so double check

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your manual if you're not 100% sure for front USB 2 you can plug into any of the

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three connectors that are labeled front USB 2 and there is one blacked out pin

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or empty pin that goes into the place where there is an empty Block in the

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connector itself and you're actually going to see the same thing with the

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front panel audio where it's not in the same position so you can't accidentally

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plug those into the wrong ones but there is one blanked out one so you go ahead

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and plug that in in the bottom left corner of your board this motherboard

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has lots of fan headers so you can go ahead and run those two included fans

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the 140 mm at the top and the 120 mm at

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the back pretty much wherever you want now there are labels on them like power

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fan or chassis fan or CPU fan but it doesn't really matter as long as you

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remember where you've plugged it in or I mean you can always play around with it after the fact the only time it'll ever

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make a difference what type of fan it is is when you look in the BIOS and you see

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the labels and you're adjusting the profile for it or whatever else so go

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ahead and plug those in they're both three pin fans but you can plug them

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into either a four pin or a three pin connector just like we did and one

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little trick that I used is I cut off the Molex connectors that are on these

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fans by default these are here just in case you don't have enough spare headers

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on your motherboard so that you can power the fans directly off the power

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supply the advantage of which which being you can plug in as many as you

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want the disadvantage of which being that you will not be able to control

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them through your motherboard's UEFI or BIOS in order to turn the fan speeds

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down and up dynamically when your system is under higher or lower levels of

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stress next up is our main power connectors for the motherboard so we've

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got the a pin which goes in the top corner now if I'd been a little bit

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smarter I might have pre cable managed this one before I put the motherboard

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into the case but have no fear there is

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a cable management hole up at the top of the case that allows us to run that wire

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up the back there are also Cable Management Loops back here so we can

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strap it down and make sure it's nice and tight so we're not going to have any difficulty closing that side panel then

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bring the connector up through the front and plug it into the a pin spot above

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the CPU socket for the 24 pin it's actually even simpler so we're going to

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run that through the cable management hole down at the bottom of the case and

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then it's going to go a very short distance also using the cable management

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Loops at the back of the case to hold it securely in place and then plug into the

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24 pin connector along the right hand edge of the motherboard our motherboard

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is now powered to plug in the hard drive all we

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have to do is plug our SATA cable into the motherboard any of the SATA ports

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will do there's no Master Slave relationship like there used to be with

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IDE then plug that data cable into the

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back of the drive and find finally a power cable into the back of the drive

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as well one thing that I usually like to do is instead of using the last SATA

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connector in the chain use the second last one or third last one because that

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will leave the additional ones free as kind of a courtesy connector for next

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time you want to install a hard drive so you don't have to reroute another SATA

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cable of our two last steps one is optional and one is well I guess it's

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optional but please tidy up your cables so first we're going to remove the two

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PCI brackets that correspond to our top PCI Express 16x slot then we are going

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to position our graphics card above the slot plug it in basically just by

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pushing evenly on it on both sides once it is locked into place you can go ahead

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and put the two screws that you took out to remove those brackets back into the

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top of the card and where normally I'd be telling people to find the PCI

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Express connector on your power supply and plug it in that's not necessary with

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the R7 250 because it is entirely powered by the PCI Express slot once

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we're done with that we can go ahead and do any last minute Cable Management so

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you can take that bundle of wires and you can tie them down nice and tight

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down at the bottom of the case or as another option you can throw them behind

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the drive cages here if you want to go for a little bit of a tidier look but

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maybe impede access to some of the screw holes at the back if you ever wanted to

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fill this baby up with hard drives you're also going to want to you know

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grab a pair of scissors and cut off any extra nubbins on the end of your zip

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ties and all that good stuff and your system is physically complete now that

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the system is mostly set up physically it's time for software setup so in the

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BIOS there's only a couple of things we're going to have to do double check

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and make sure ahci is enabled for your SATA ports and ensure that all your

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components are detected then dial in

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that 2400 MHz memory to the correct

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speed if you're ever not 100% sure about

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the timings the voltage and the frequency you can find that either on

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the manufacturer website or actually usually on the modules themselves just

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make sure you power down your system before you go yanking your memory

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modules out of it to like read the side of them or anything like that next up is

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Windows installation which is super simple if you know how don't worry about

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the lack of a disc drive in this machine we can grab all that stuff off a disc on

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another system copy it to a USB drive then boot from that it's faster and more

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convenient we've actually done a guide on this before so go ahead and check out

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the video annotation link here if you want to check that out in a simple

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system like this there's only one drive so installing Windows on the default

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Drive is just the way to go it'll come completely unformatted and by default

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it'll fill your entire drive with your Windows installation and then all the

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spare area you need in order to install all your applications and all that good

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stuff your system will automatically reboot a couple times and you will be

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dumped at the desktop now drivers are

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something that many people struggle with but it's not too overwhelming if you

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break it down install the drivers off of

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the disc for things like your network because you're obviously not going to be

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able to get on the internet unless you have a network driver then go to the

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manufacturer website for things like your video card which is AMD whether you

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put in the discrete graphics or you're running the onboard Graphics as well as

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your board which is ASRock and just grab

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all of the stuff for your particular component and install it if there's

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anything missing don't worry too much about it

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because all you have to do is use this little simple trick go to device manager

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rightclick the component in question usually it'll have a little exclamation

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mark with a yellow triangle around it then go to details use the drop- down

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box to go to Hardware ID Google the venore number number number and Devore

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00:26:29,480 --> 00:26:36,760
number number number string and it will tell you exactly what that thing happens

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00:26:34,200 --> 00:26:41,080
to be and then you're golden now it's time to test our system now I promised a

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couple of benchmarks showing some of the benefits of HSA and Now's the Time

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00:26:44,679 --> 00:26:54,000
Carell Aftershock Pro was run side by side on just a CPU and with HSA enabled

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to take advantage of our entire Apu and

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then we followed up with a couple runs of PC Mark 8 huge thanks to Future Mark

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by the way for providing us with a professional copy which is also HSA

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00:27:02,720 --> 00:27:10,440
aware and demonstrates a very significant increase in overall system

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performance especially in the work and creation Suites our first Graphics test

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takes advantage of the mantle API the star swarm Benchmark which we've run in

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both directex mode and mantle mode to see what kind of performance

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improvements we can get with an APU seems to validate that mantle is going

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to have some wings to fly on in the future even though right now there

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aren't a ton of games that support it to validate the operation of dual Graphics

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we've run BioShock Infinite and Far Cry 3 with just the integrated GPU just the

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r7250 utilizing only the CPU part of our Apu and then finally with the Apu

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running in dual graphics with the GPU to

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show you guys that there is a tangible

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performance Improvement now there is still a strong argument for more

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powerful discrete graphics but as a proof of concept dual Graphics looks

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like a promising technology for the future especially on notebooks where the

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discrete graphics card can be turned off entirely when it's not needed to save

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power other than that something like an

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r7260x is the kind of upgrade that I would look for for a system like this to

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take a look at the performance improvements that we can gain from

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increasing our memory frequency our gskill kit is clocked at 2400 MHz by

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default but we tried underclocking it to 2133 1866 and 1600 MHz to see what you

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get for the extra couple of bucks looks pretty worthwhile to give that onboard

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Graphics some extra memory bandwidth when you're gaming hey for our last

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performance test we take our star swarm Benchmark and then run it at stock speed

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and then with the CPU and the GPU on our

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Apu both substantially overclocked looks like there's some fun

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to be had for tuners and Tweakers who want to try to squeeze the most out of

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this value oriented onboard solution I

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hope you guys enjoyed this video and learned a little something about HSA and

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the kinds of performance leaps it will enable in the future along with the

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other AMD Technologies showcased in this build guide one that I actually didn't

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mention before is 4K media playback HSA

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00:29:27,039 --> 00:29:33,960
accelerated media play ERS will allow your GPU to handle 4K video playback

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without taxing your CPU over much and remember both of those things are part

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of the Apu this is the kind of future

402
00:29:38,760 --> 00:29:44,559
proofness that isn't necessarily about

403
00:29:41,960 --> 00:29:48,480
some you know greasy car salesman telling you that you'll be playing the

404
00:29:45,799 --> 00:29:53,320
latest games at 4K in 5 years if you buy this one because that kind of future

405
00:29:50,640 --> 00:29:57,399
proofness really doesn't exist rather it's about making sure that the system

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maintains its base functionality over a nice long per period of time by

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unlocking additional performance with improved software over the time that you

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00:30:03,799 --> 00:30:10,679
own your system it's the sort of thing that we're already used to seeing with

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00:30:07,720 --> 00:30:16,080
gaming consoles for example but now with a PC so that's what we built today maybe

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00:30:13,720 --> 00:30:21,399
the exact parts list isn't what you're going to buy but it's a great starting

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00:30:19,120 --> 00:30:25,200
point for a system that's good today and great tomorrow thanks for watching this

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00:30:23,320 --> 00:30:29,360
build guide thanks to AMD for making it possible and just in case you aren't

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00:30:27,399 --> 00:30:32,679
already don't forget to subscribe to lus techtips for more great computer videos

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00:30:31,080 --> 00:30:43,240
build guides unboxings reviews and all kinds of crazy stuff just like this

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00:30:43,240 --> 00:30:47,440
one I've been holding

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00:30:47,440 --> 00:30:54,320
forever waiting for the rain to come who

417
00:30:52,440 --> 00:30:59,919
to Just Surrender I'm not holding back for

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anyone

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00:31:02,159 --> 00:31:17,019
wait for the rain