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I've spent the last several years remodeling my home into a techie's dream

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with gaming PCs, 10 gig networking, and screens everywhere. And it's kind of

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awesome. But there is one

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one fatal flaw. Despite the solar panels

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we installed on the roof providing some clean energy some of the time, the

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system was designed to feed excess power back into the grid rather than into a

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battery bank. So during the stormy season, we regularly lose the one thing

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a techie house needs more than anything else. Come on. The power and these

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outages seem to be happening more and more frequently. So it's time to solve

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this once and for all with a proper home

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power backup solution.

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Jake. Jesus.

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Jake, this is not what we talked about. What do you mean it's mint? I thought

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you wanted something cheap. Well, yeah, of course I want something cheap, but I want something safe. Um, I've got

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paperwork. Hold on. See, like, look,

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that's not the paper. That's just our sponsor, War Thunder. If you're into

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vehicle combat games, War Thunder has a ton of depth while being easy to get

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into. And it's available on PC, consoles, and mobile devices. Play for

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free using the link in the description. Got him. You see, Lionus isn't the only

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one who's tired of our crappy power grid. And when I heard him complaining

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about it, it gave me a wonderful idea. Why spend my time building a

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cost-effective battery backup system for my house when I can get paid to do it

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instead? It's just that when I pitched doing a sort of DIY, build your own

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battery toolinus, he was understandably

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a bit sketched out. So, I told him, "Don't worry, we'll just buy a complete

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solution and then all we've got to do is hook it up." Which is exactly what I

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did. There's just uh maybe a little bit more assembly required than I think he

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was expecting. Now, if you've been keeping up with the Lionus house

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renovation project, you might have seen the Eaton UPS or uninterruptible power

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supply units in his rack. Yes, the one that got water all over it. That box is

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basically a fancy battery that sits in between his networking, smart home

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control, everything in his server rack, and as the name implies, provides

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uninterrupted power to it in the event of an outage. The problem is they're

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just only really designed to run for like a couple minutes. Just enough time

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to save your work and shut down or in a larger scale setup like a data center.

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Enough time for a generator to start up and fill in for the grid. Not nearly

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enough for a several hourong outage. And while we could extend it with extra

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eaten battery packs, at a retail price of

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$1,500 per piece, even $6,000 later,

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we'd still only have a few hours. Now, other setups like the Jackaryi I kind of

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hinted at earlier could power the whole house. But with 10 kwatt hours costing

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$6,000 as well, DIY it is. Starting with

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the batteries. Now, in a normal whole house setup, in this day and age, you

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would usually go with LFP or lithium ion

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phosphate batteries. They're much more affordable than the solutions I just mentioned per kilowatt hour. But more

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importantly, they're less explosive and have longer usable life than the

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batteries we're going to be using today. Specifically, these four battery modules

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we picked up from a scrapped Tesla Model S battery. They were $250 a pack, and

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that is really freaking cheap. And since I'm not exactly sure how Linus is going

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to feel about all this, these were a solid way to start a bit smaller. Not to

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mention that these packs have a built-in balance and sensor board, which helps

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with the safety factor, and we'll talk a bit more about that later. Because the

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400 odd cells in this pack are primarily wired in parallel, which adds capacity

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rather in series, which adds up the voltage. Each pack is only around 24

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volts, but we need 48. So, we're going to take each pair and wire them together

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in series, which will give us the exact same 48 volts. So, why don't we start

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with that? This specifically is 4 gauge. Now, the gauge of the wire, which is how

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thick it is and how much power it can handle, is really important. Um, but

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we're not going to get into that just yet. We'll talk about that in a little bit. But what is important is how you

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terminate it. They're actually Molex brand. Yes, that Molex, but no, not that

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connector. These connectors are much, much beefier. So much so that you can't

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put this on this cable without a special tool. Because even if you had a big pair

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of pliers, the odds that you're going to be able to put enough force on this to

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actually get a good connection, very unlikely. So instead, we're going to use

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this, which is a hydraulic crimper. We picked this up on Amazon for about 100

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bucks. And if you look at it closely, as I pump the lever, once it gets tight,

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it's exerting a ton of force on that connector.

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See, that is not going

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anywhere. So, if we grab our lovely Fluke 117 multimeter here and measure a

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single pack, we've got 23.4 volts. And

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then if I go to measure uh the whole pack from negative to positive, 46. You

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can even see our meter is in DC mode. Batteries are DC. And that means

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basically that one side is positive and one side is negative. and the

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electricity flows one way. You can see if I flip these around and put the positive lead on the negative side and

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vice versa, we get negative voltage. Now, the power in your house, however,

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is completely different. It's AC or alternating current. And if you were

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able to check, you know, negative versus positive on that, please don't try. You

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would see that the hot wire actually switches between negative and positive

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60 times a second. At least in North America, you you can't just like hook

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one of these batteries straight up to the wall. Please, please do not try

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that. Instead, you need something called an

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inverter and a charger. Oh my gosh, this is heavier than I was expecting. An

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inverter takes the DC charge from our batteries and gives us AC wall power.

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And then it also does the opposite because this is a hybrid. So, it'll take

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wall power and give us DC power to charge the batteries. So, it's an

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inverter charger. And the one we're going to be using, this EG4 6000XP, is

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specifically designed for 48volt battery systems, which is why we put the

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batteries together earlier. And if we open it up, we can see all sorts of

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connections in here. We've got the big old battery terminals. This thing can do

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a lot of battery. We've got load, which is what you connect anything downstream

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that you want battery backed up. We've got grid, which is the incoming power,

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so we can charge the batteries with that. It can pass it through when we're

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not on battery. We've got gen, which is for a generator, which Lionus doesn't

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have, but all of the units kind of in this price point seem to have that. So,

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bonus feature, ah, and then PV input.

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This is meant for connecting solar panels directly to the inverter charger.

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If you're doing like an off-grid installation, like at a cabin where you

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don't even have a grid to connect to, this specific unit, because it's called

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the 6000 XP, can handle 6,000 watts of

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power. And in a normal home battery setup, you'd take what you would call a

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critical load panel, which is just a separate electrical panel, and wire up

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all of the things that you need to power in an outage, like say medical equipment

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if you have something like that, or controls for like a gas heating system.

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That way, you're not wasting battery powering the entire house when you don't

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really need to. In the final installation, we're probably just going

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to power the whole house. However, for now, we're just going to set this up as

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a completely standalone system, just like a UPS. And in our case, our

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critical load, which is the server rack, it's already separated onto two PDUs,

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which are basically fancy power

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bars. A lot has changed, as you can see,

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and obviously there's a lot of pieces here that we haven't talked about at all yet. So, let's do it. Now, you can just

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take our batteries over there and hook them right up to this. It would work,

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but it's not exactly safe. Primarily, if there's any sort of issue with this, not

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to say that there will be, but if there was, that caused the pack to draw too

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much power, we don't want our cables to be able to melt or for instance, if

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somehow one of them got caught and shorted itself out. We want that system

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to automatically be safeguarded against that. And to do that, you use fuses,

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which do exactly that. These are rated for 80 amps. And there is kind of like a

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a table that shows you at what amperage and what amount of time they blow. But

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the main thing is if our battery pack gets shorted out for some reason or is

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drawing way too much power, this fuse will blow and break the path of

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electricity. So it doesn't start a fire or at least in theory. And we have one

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of these for each of our series pairs of batteries. and they'll just sit in this

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little fuse holder thingy here, which conveniently has a bus bar on the other

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side that'll connect our two sets of packs together to get all of our

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capacity into the inverter charger right here. There's also another safety

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measure right here, which is called a contactor. And it's basically an

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electronically controlled light switch, just like an electronically controlled

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the biggest light switch you could possibly imagine. This thing can handle

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900 volts DC and I think like how many

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amps? I don't know. It doesn't matter. a freaking lot of amps. Way more than you

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could possibly need in this pack because this is actually pulled out of a car if

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there's any sort of issue with the pack. Ideally, we're detecting that ahead of

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time. And the conttor will shut off the power. And how do you know if there's

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anything wrong with the batteries? Well, the Vero Electric BMS V2, this thing is

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the brains of our operations, or at least of the battery side. This thing

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allows us to talk directly to the Tesla module balance boards and read the

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temperatures, the voltages, everything. But more importantly, it controls our

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contacttor big switch thing. So, if there is any problem with the pack,

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something doesn't seem right, it shuts the power off and makes sure that

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nothing breaks. Oh, and I almost forgot. There's one of these little clampy boys.

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It's called a CT. uh it just goes on the negative wire and feeds back information

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into the BMS to tell it how much amperage is going through so we know how

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much it's being charged or discharged at any time. Now, we need to talk about how

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we're going to connect to the house to get our incoming juice and connect the

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rack to power the rest of the devices, especially when a power outage happens.

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So, in North America, we have a little bit of a complicated situation. You see,

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this is a normal power plug. You've got one wire that comes into here that gives

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you 120 volt AC and the other wire is neutral which is not technically a live

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wire technically technically except that in an electrical panel you also have

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line two. So there's two these two wires

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line one and line two are separated by 240 volts AC and the neutral just sits

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in the middle. And so if you connect neutral to line one you get 120 volts.

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If you connect neutral to line two you get 120 volt. But you have to deal with

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both of these if you want to be able to back up an entire house or in our case

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in Linus' rack, we have 240 volt and 120

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volt. So we need to be able to power both of those devices. Now our inverter

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is built for this. We've got L1, we've got L2. That's fine. It's just that at

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the house it becomes a little bit complicated because we need to get all

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of this on one plug ideally. And it just so happens that there's a solution for

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this. this fancy plug called an L1430. The 30 standing for 30 amps, the

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14 standing for whatever the heck this is. Gives us L1, L2, and neutral. Of

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course, also a ground. And that means we can pull 120 volt and 240 volt off of

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this one plug. From here, we'll run a big wire that can handle that 30 amp

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load. It'll wire into L1 and L2 on grid.

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Then we'll have our neutral on the neutral and then our ground into PE for

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protected earth. And that's pretty much it on the input side. From the output

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side, it's kind of the same story except that instead of wiring directly to a

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plug, we need two plugs. So, I've got an L630, which connects to the PDU and

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gives us 240 volt only, not both. And

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then we've just got a normal receptacle, which will be our normal 120 volt.

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Huzzah. With a little movie magic, now we're in Lionus' basement. And we have

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everything here a little bit more put together than the last time you saw it.

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I've done a bunch of wiring. We've got our output side all put together how we

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talked about before. We don't even have the Tesla batteries hooked up yet. I

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don't even have the cables made. But the next step is getting this thing on the

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wall. I guess it has to go right here. This is pretty much the only option. And

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Lionus isn't home right now. He's in Asia on vacation, which means I get to

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put it wherever the I want. Now, before we do anything funky like getting this

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wired up to the house, I'm going to hook this up with a different battery than

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our Tesla packs. specifically this one

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also made by the company that makes the inverter EG4. Now, if you're looking for

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a more oh my god offtheshelf solution,

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this is something you can look for. It's basically a rack mount unit made with

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LFP batteries, which we talked about earlier. They're a lot safer and it

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includes all of the safety and battery management stuff in this unit. It is a

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fair bit more expensive than rolling your own solution, but you press the

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power button here. It boots up. It's ready to go. And it hooks right up with

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some RJ45 for communication with the inverter and some power leads. Damn.

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Hey. Yeah, that's good. That's not half bad. Perfect. Let's slide this in the

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corner, measure some cables, and then we'll reuse them for our temporary

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battery and save these for Linus. And when you're hooking up a

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battery system like this, it's very important that you get wire that is

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thick enough to handle the amperage or the amount of energy that you're passing

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through it. And this 6,000ish watt inverter means at 48 volts peak

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load 125 amps. That's a lot of freaking amps, man. And since we have two packs

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kind of that are being put together, we divide that by two. That means an

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individual pack could be pulling anywhere upwards of 62 amps. And if we

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look at our handy ampacity chart, which tells us what wire gauge you need for a

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given amperage, we'll say 62 amps. So we'll go 70 is 6 gauge. And this is 4

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gauge. So, we're good to go. The 4 gauge should be able to handle up to 100 amps.

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So, this is lots. About that much ran into our fuse. And we actually have a

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fuse for each of our pairs of packs. That way, if all of the power for the

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full 6,000 watts was going from one pack, this fuse will blow and shut the

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whole system off. Oh. Oh, fresh. Oh.

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because I just want to see this thing turn on. I'm going to do something mildly cursed and use both red cables as

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the positive and the negative for our pre-made battery from EG4. Now, if

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you're doing this properly, you should use a torque wrench. I'm just going with

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tight. If we clip this

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on, hey, it's on. Please do not ever do this

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at home.

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Hey, look at that. You seeing it? 120 volt AC, baby. Now, my plan was to use

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this plug, an L630, which powers his main big UPS with 240 volt power. The

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problem is, despite what the panel was labeled, this is only a two wire cable,

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which means we have line one and line two with no neutral, and we need the

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neutral. So, we walk into the electrical supply store, and the guy's like, "Yeah,

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they they won't they won't do that. They won't cut it off the roll." I'm like, "What do you mean they won't cut it off

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the roll?" Look at how many rolls you have. Look over there. There's even more

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rolls. Well, we got it, though. He He magically cut it off the roll for us, I

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guess. So, I did a bunch of electrical work in your house, added a new plug, and in theory,

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it's really theory cuz I haven't tested this part.

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Hey, and then this is just batteries out

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of what? A Model S? Yes. What' we pay for them? very little. For the

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uninitiated, this is 20,000 watts for an hour or 1,000 watts for 20 hours.

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Assuming no losses and whatnot. We're just Yeah, perfect world. Anyways, and

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it was 1,000 bucks Canadian, which what Americans is like 600 US, dude. That is

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5 kW hours and is $2,000. For the big

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deployment, we're probably not going to actually use these. We will we will use

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LFP batteries, but we'll build our own pack. Basically, I don't know too much

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about the battery packs in older Model S's. I know these are 18650s

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and there's a freaking lot of them. I think there's 444 in each of these. And

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then uh how many packs would be in a full car? Uh I believe there's 16

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modules in a whole battery pack in a Model S. Notice how these are exactly

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the same length. Yes. It's very important when you're building a battery

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pack that you have equal lengths between all of your different cells because you

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don't want to be charging them ever so slightly different. Is this off here for

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a reason? It could just go anywhere on there, right? Just put them here. So, I could also just put it here. What

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happened to the nut? What am I doing? I'm drunk. You are drunk. What? Look at

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this. Oh my god. I put that one on backwards. You are so drunk. I mean, it would still work. Now, we plug in the

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BMS. Yeah, that has a mount. Look how

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mounted that is. Oh, man. We can see our batteries are 27° 46.7 volts at a 62%

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state of charge. I actually hadn't tested this contactor yet. If we were to

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go like this. Uh-huh. Do you hear that? Yeah. That was

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the contact. What's one of these worth? I think this is about 2 grand Canadians.

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It's about 1,500 bucks. That's not bad. Considering it can do six kil watts.

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Yeah, I didn't. I was just I was just chilling there. That's confidence

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inspiring. Look how mounted that is. Ah, mint. Presently, our BMS cannot talk to

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the inverter over CAN and like have a nice communication and tell each other

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what's going on. However, I did yell at both of the companies and they have been

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for like the last 3 weeks working on getting them integrated. So, Oh, that's very cool. In a couple weeks, you

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hopefully will be able to use an EG4 inverter with a VO BMS and they'll just

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talk to each other and everything's good. Super cool. For now, we have to run it in lead acid mode. Lead acid mode

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is basically you don't have a lithium battery that has a battery management it

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can talk to. So, we could set the charge current to whatever we want if we wanted

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to control temperatures or Yeah. 100%. So, actually in a Tesla, I mean, if you

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look, there's there's coolant terminals on the outside. Yeah. And you can water

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cool them. And realistically, if you're doing an EV conversion, you really would

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want to water cool them, but we could hook it up to the pool. Yeah, you could.

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We're pulling from the grid, charging 2900 watts, and then we are consuming

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2,000 watts all at the same time. Let's just try it. Okay. Okay. So, we're just

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going to unplug the wall. Okay. I heard a beep. Oh,

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everything's bad. It's bad. Oh, come on.

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46 amps. 48 45. She goes. That simple. Let's

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go. In conclusion, this is kind of awesome. Not that crazy. Right now, all

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we need to do is 10x it. Yeah, a 200 kWh

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battery would be freaking sick. But where do we put it? I'm thinking this

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goes. Yeah. And we basically just build

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a giant battery wall. Like I could put this bench on wheels, put it over here

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in front of all this stuff, and then if I ever need to access this, I just wheel it away. Yeah. Or I could just not do

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this in here, and I could just use my garage like a normal person. Or this could just sit in front of the

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batteries. Or we could just segue to our sponsor, War Thunder. Take to the skies,

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for free. If you guys enjoyed this video, uh maybe go check out the one

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that we did on putting the solar panels on the roof. They're really cool panels.

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It just turns out they're not quite compatible with this application cuz I told them not to have ones like that.

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Yeah, making this work for the whole house and the solar is going to be

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interesting.