WEBVTT

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Oh man, I keep watching all these PC build videos, but the camera angles are

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so confusing. Where does this even go? I'll help you along.

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That was a close one. Let's do this. Here's how to build a PC. Start by

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clearing a tidy workspace with everything you need and gathering the

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necessary tools. While realistically you can build a modern computer with just a

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number two Phillips head screwdriver and maybe a number one, there's a few other

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things I like to have in my kit. Some cutting implements for opening packages

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and boxes. A pair of side cutters for terminating zip ties. A pair of

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needle-nose pliers for tightening the odd nut or reaching into tight spaces.

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Some cable management ties. I like these reusable hook andloop style ones. An

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anti-static wrist strap. I'll show you guys how to use this later. These are

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great so you don't end up playing baby simulator instead of PC building

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simulator. [music] The first thing I'm going to have you open up is your power supply. Don't

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worry too much about the documentation or the accessories just yet. I want you

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to grab the main power cord, the power

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supply unit itself, and

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a delicious snack.

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In all seriousness, those are not nearly as delicious as they sound. Now, we plug

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this boy in and plug it into the wall.

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[music] Then, from here, we've got a couple of options. Either we can

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diligently touch this anytime we're about to handle something sensitive, or

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we can know we're just bound to be focusing on other things and put on our

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ESD bracelet with the metal side in making contact with our bare skin and

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then attach our clip to any exposed metal on our power supply.

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Realistically, paint is not a great conductor, but if you give it a little

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scratchy scratch, it'll conduct ever so slightly better. Now, obviously, there

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are other ways to ground yourself. I'm looking at them right now. But if you

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know how these work, I don't need to explain to you how to use an ESD

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bracelet. Even you smarties might not be using the anklet hack yet, though. I'm a

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big fan of this. You just clip on and your hands are completely unencumbered.

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Also, if you forget,

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whatever. Let's break away, baby. Now, we're ready. All we need is any

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reference materials that we might find useful. And if you've got one, a sponsor

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like iFix it. It's May, so it may be

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time to fix up your old broken gear. From now until May 31st, you can get 20%

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off select iFixit tool kits by going to the link in the video description. Let's

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start with the motherboard. We're going to have all these parts linked below if you guys want to follow along at home.

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But don't feel pressured to use exactly the same stuff. That's kind of the

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beauty of building a custom PC. The basic process is the same, even if the

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part numbers change a little bit from year to year. Now, one thing to note is

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anytime you're handling a board, you're going to want to handle it by the edges,

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by big plastic pieces like this, or large metal pieces like here and back

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here. And as for where you're going to want to put it down, well, see, I have

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an ESD safe workmat, but you probably won't. So, conveniently, your

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motherboard comes with a non-conductive platform called the box. Just put it on

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there. Before we get too far ahead of ourselves, though, there are a couple of things we need from in here. This small

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M.2 two retention screw, this IO shield,

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our Wi-Fi antennas, and I don't know, a

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SATA cable. Sure, if you're a first-time builder, or even if you're not, now is a

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much easier time to familiarize yourself with the layout of your motherboard. The

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B760 DS3 HAC from Gigabyte is not a

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particularly high-end board, but what it does have is the features we need and a

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very standard layout. Our CPU power connectors up here in the top left in

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its usual location. Our motherboard power connector is along the right hand

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edge. Our CPU socket is right here dead center at the top with our RAM slots

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just to the right, color-coded for dual channel operation.

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Our M.2 storage slots are just south of the CPU socket and between the PCI

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Express expansion slots. And then all of our front connectors are along the

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bottom edge with audio, RGB, USB 2,

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fans, our front IO. So that's our front power button and front lights. Some

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internal connectors for SATA, those are for our hard drives. And these are

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pretty important. USB [music] 3 and USB3

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type-C along the right hand edge, usually under the motherboard power

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connector. The last thing is at the top there's going to be a special fan

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header, usually called CPU. That one is

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special because if for whatever reason your CPU fan fails, the system can be

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programmed to shut down safely instead of overheating. Now, let's talk CPU. I

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don't know quite how this happened, but Intel has become a great choice for

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budget gaming builds these days, and the Core i5 12600 KF is a fantastic choice.

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It's got six P cores and four PU cores. That is to say, six performance cores

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and four that don't perform quite as well. It turbos to up to 4.9 GHz. And

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jokes about them aside, those weaker efficiency cores actually make it a

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formidable choice not just for gaming, but even for streaming and light content

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creation. Something to note though is that as an FK, this is not going to

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allow us to use our onboard graphics outputs. And we do prefer to have those,

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even if it's just to simplify troubleshooting. But for a $30

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difference in budget at this price point, it's just not something that we

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can justify for something we'll be replacing before we ever even power on

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the system. Now, it's time to get this thing installed. All we've got to do is

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push down the ARM here. Lift up this bad

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boy right here. Find the little golden triangle that's on the corner of our

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CPU. In this case,

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right there. Then find the corresponding triangle at the corner of the socket. Or

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if you want to be even more careful not to accidentally touch these pins, you

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can check before you lift it up. Line those two triangles up. Drop the CPU

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into place with no force whatsoever. If

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it doesn't go in, it may not be keyed correctly. So, watch out for that. Give

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it a little wiggle to make sure it's in place. Lower the top cover. Lower the

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ARM. And this should pop off. Just a little

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something like that. Hold on to this though. If you ever need to RMA your

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motherboard back to the manufacturer, they will require you to have this.

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Stop eating things. Now, let's talk about another area where

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we saved a few bucks. We went with 32 gigs of DDR4 memory, opting for this kit

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of G-Skill Rip Jaws 5. Some folks might

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have preferred we went with DDR5, but at around $80, this is a great kit for

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gaming today and in the near future and fit comfortably within our approximately

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$1,000 budget. For installation, the first thing you're going to want to do

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is check where they go. And woo, conveniently, this motherboard has a

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little silk screened legend that tells you, but if not, you can double check

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your motherboard manual. Usually, you're going to use color-coded slots and

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usually the slots furthest away from the CPU.

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Just peel back the tabs, press down firmly until they click, and you should

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be good to go. By the way, if you noticed how

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three-dimensional and spatial all of that was, you're probably watching on

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the Vision Pro with the file that we provided at LMG.gg/flowplane.

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For everyone else, guess what? You're also a winner because you didn't spend

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$3,500 on a Vision Pro. Now, we're going to need some storage for our operating

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system. And hey, what are you doing? What year is it for the operating

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system? Yeah, that's better. We've gone with the Crucial P3 Plus. Is it the

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fastest drive on the market? No. Does it have a DRAM cache which can improve

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longevity and performance? No. But what

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it does have is good enough performance and a very attractive price. We've got a

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1 TBTE drive here which will be enough for our operating system, our

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applications, and maybe even a couple of games. And while we recognize we could

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have spent more on a higher performance drive, we found that a mainstream PCIe

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Gen 4 drive is all most people are bound to notice in desktop use anyway. So the

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only question is, do we install it in the top slot, which tends to run at

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higher speeds and lower latency and is connected directly to the CPU, or do we

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run it in one of the bottom slots, which typically shares its lanes with other

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nearby slots. For us, it's really not going to matter. So eeny meeny money.

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one. All we've got to do is align our little gumstick form factor drive with

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the slot right there. Push it in, push

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it down, and then retrieve that little screw that we had earlier. And this is

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where you're going to need that number one Phillips head screwdriver. And screw

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it down a little something like this.

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It's worth noting that many modern motherboards have unique toolless

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installation methods for these M.2 drives or even large shrouds or heat

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sinks that cover up the slots. So, if you find that that's the case, just

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consult your manual for how to operate these slots and how to gain access to

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them. When you're installing your CPU cooler, the first thing you're going to

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want to do is double check what socket you're using. This will often be silk

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screened on the motherboard. In our case, we can see socket 1700, but

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otherwise, you will certainly find it in the manual or on the product page for

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your CPU. Then, what we're going to do is we're going to open this up. Ignore

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absolutely everything except get out of here. Ah, there it is. We missed it.

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This is very important because pretty much every cooler installs a little bit

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differently and sometimes a little differently on every single socket. So,

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we're going to want to find the specific instructions

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for Intel 1700. Now, obviously, your

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mileage may vary for this part depending on which cooler you bought, but the

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Thermalite Phantom Spirit 12SE is a great choice at just about any budget.

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So, I'm going to show you guys how to install it. starting by grabbing the

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back plate and flipping over your motherboard. I don't generally like

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peeling these and actually sticking this thing down, but as you can see in a

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previous take, I already started. So, I guess we're down this path now. So, all

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I'm going to do is kind of stick it to my shirt a little bit to make sure that it's not too sticky. Now, on older

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sockets, the orientation mattered, but on LGA 1700, it doesn't. So, we're just

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going to pop these little posts through the holes in the motherboard,

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stick that down, and we should be good to go. Now we put all of our fun little

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blue spacers in place. Line up our little mounting bars.

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Now for one of the most controversial steps, applying thermal compound. Here's

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how you do it.

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That's not how I would do it. That's how you do it. Look at the mess you made.

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Being serious though, that would have worked fine. You can't really put too

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much thermal compound on your CPU. All it does is make a mess. But if you don't

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want to waste it, then an amount more like this is more reasonable. We used to

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say the size of an uncooked grain of rice. Now I would say think of whatever

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the trendiest most hipster rice you can think of is and how big it is when it's

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cooked and kind of go with that. If you have a much larger CPU, like a

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workstation size or server size CPU, either spread a thin layer across the

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entire shiny integrated heat spreader or

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check their documentation. Now for the most important step. Everything else you

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did was for not. If you do not remove this peel, remove the peel. Now shiny.

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Take that shiny. Put it on the other shiny.

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Line up the post with the screws. Then give her but not fully. Once it's

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caught, I would strongly recommend tightening the other side until it

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catches. And then tightening slowly in an alternating fashion. You can just

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wrench one side all the way down and then try and get the other side to go,

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but it can be a little bit tricky. Puts a lot of strain on the motherboard, too.

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We are done. Well, not done. I mean,

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it's not a computer, is it? But done enough to deserve a nice snack.

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Now that we've enjoyed a light meal and a very heavy trip to the toilet, we're

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ready to put these wire clips onto our fans. A little something like so.

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Then we lower the fan down. Make sure it's even. Not that it really matters,

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but it matters a lot to me. And pull the clips.

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Just like that. See, not going anywhere. Not that it would want to. Anyway, look,

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I brought it a little friend. It's worth noting that this one is uh not going to

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go all the way down because it interferes with our RAM, but that's

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okay. We're still getting most of the benefit of that air flow. Now, because

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modern day, we need to plug in a thousand connectors. JK, it's not that

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bad. All we've got to do is daisy chain together these RGB connectors. [music]

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You can see there's just three pins, so they only go in one way. Boop. Then take

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this female end and plug it into where there is usually a header at the top of

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the motherboard. Then for these other two, you've got a couple of options. Our

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cooler did include a Y cable, so we can just plug into that and plug both of

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them into our CPU fan header. But our motherboard has a CPU fan and CPU opt

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header, so we can just plug both of them into that.

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Delicious. Now, for cable management,

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okay, I'm just kidding. A, don't do that

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because you can actually accidentally end up with cables that are stuck in

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your fan blades and they won't spin. That's bad. And B, because it's not

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really the time for cable management. Now is the time to do a quick test boot

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here on the test platform before you assemble the whole system and cable

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manage everything. It's a lot easier to swap a component now than it is to do it

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2 hours from now.

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And moment of truth, we can see our power button is these two pins right

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here. We short them and

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it's alive. Well, we don't know that yet. Believe it

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or not, it's normal for the system to take quite a while to turn on in the

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first place, especially AMD systems, while they undergo a process called

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memory training. So, I'm not digging into my motherboard manual for what

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these diagnostic LEDs mean for probably at least a solid minute or two. Oh,

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well. Okay. Well, the monitor has to be on.

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That's step one. Boom. Booted. Great

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sign. For bonus points, we could install Windows now. Get all of our drivers set

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up. Make sure everything's working correctly. Run some stress tests. But

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realistically, you're not that patient. You're going to

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put the rest of the system together. Now that you know all the bits and pieces

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work, you can set these aside. And it's time to get back to the build and meet

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your case. Doesn't she look so beautiful? Just lift up the veil. Give

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her a little kiss. We settled for the Fantex Eclipse 360A.

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It's a great value at the best of times. And when we put together this parts

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list, it was just $50 after rebate. It

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comes with three 120 mm fans in the

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front. And even if we're not a huge fan of the configuration, we'd suggest

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moving maybe this top one to be a rear exhaust or a top exhaust. There's no

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doubt that it'll be enough cooling for our rig. [music] Personally, I like to

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remove all my side panels and put them aside so there's no risk of them getting

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scratched or damaged while I'm completing the rest of the build. A safe

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place to put them is in the box with foam separating the two pieces. Now,

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it's time to track down all of your mounting accessories. These will usually be in either a bag or a box somewhere in

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the case or in the case packaging. In Fantex's [music]

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case, pun intended, it's clearly labeled in this box. And

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nope, this one does not include their little trademark organizers. I guess

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that's only on their more premium cases. Good luck figuring out what all these

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are for, JK. I'm going to help. But before we get to that, there's one

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really fun step that everyone loves. Installing the IO shield. If you have a

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mid-range or a high-end board, it's possible that it didn't come with one of

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these. Congratulations. If you're anyone else, now's a [music] great time to find

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any of the little pieces that fold back like this. Give them a little extra fold

00:16:17.271 --> 00:16:23.279
[music] to make sure that they don't end up stuck behind your port. Then line it

00:16:21.519 --> 00:16:27.600
up with the rectangular opening at the back of the case, pushing on each corner

00:16:25.120 --> 00:16:30.720
one at a time, knowing that there's a solid chance one of the other corners

00:16:28.959 --> 00:16:34.399
will pop out when you do it. If you're not sure about the orientation, you can

00:16:32.800 --> 00:16:38.639
just check the back of the motherboard and make sure that the holes correspond

00:16:36.240 --> 00:16:42.160
to the ports. Speaking of your motherboard, now's a perfect time to

00:16:40.240 --> 00:16:46.720
install it in the case. But first, we're going to do a quick sanity check. Some

00:16:44.399 --> 00:16:52.480
cases come with motherboard standoffs pre-installed in the motherboard tray.

00:16:48.480 --> 00:16:55.120
In fact, you can see I've got six nine

00:16:52.480 --> 00:17:00.560
of them in this particular case. This is really convenient, but if you happen to

00:16:57.839 --> 00:17:04.640
have a mismatch between the whole layout of your motherboard and the

00:17:02.320 --> 00:17:09.199
pre-installed standoffs in your case, it can cause a standoff to correspond to a

00:17:07.520 --> 00:17:13.600
spot where there isn't a hole and scratch the traces, permanently

00:17:11.280 --> 00:17:17.600
destroying your board. So, [music] we've done a quick count and determined that

00:17:15.199 --> 00:17:23.199
we have both nine standoffs and nine holes. We're going to orient the back of

00:17:20.000 --> 00:17:25.760
the board with the IO shield. Then,

00:17:23.199 --> 00:17:32.400
keeping this side well clear of those metal standoffs, slide it toward the

00:17:28.000 --> 00:17:34.559
back and hopefully, there we go, get it

00:17:32.400 --> 00:17:38.799
to line up perfectly with our standoffs. You may find this process easier if you

00:17:36.799 --> 00:17:45.679
lay the case down, but I'm making a video, so I can't do that. Now, quickly

00:17:42.400 --> 00:17:47.200
install one screw, and only one for now.

00:17:45.679 --> 00:17:51.039
There's a couple of quick things that we want to check.

00:17:49.120 --> 00:17:54.880
First, are there any metal tabs sticking into our ports, preventing us from using

00:17:52.799 --> 00:17:59.919
them, or worse, shorting them out, causing damage to our board? [music] No.

00:17:57.280 --> 00:18:04.240
Good to go. Second, have we accidentally caught anything under our board that

00:18:01.679 --> 00:18:08.400
prevents us from screwing it down? Ah, there you can see we've got a cable

00:18:06.400 --> 00:18:12.000
that's stuck back there. If we tried to screw the board down with that back

00:18:09.840 --> 00:18:17.679
there, we could accidentally cause a lot of undue stress as we tighten down the

00:18:14.640 --> 00:18:20.160
one side while this part is bulging out.

00:18:17.679 --> 00:18:24.559
Also, since we're pushing it down, the last thing we want to check is that

00:18:21.840 --> 00:18:29.039
through every single hole, we can see a standoff. If we pre-counted them and we

00:18:27.120 --> 00:18:32.320
know that they match, then if we can see a standoff through everyone, [music]

00:18:30.320 --> 00:18:36.787
that means we have no extras that can damage our board. Time to start

00:18:34.480 --> 00:18:41.520
screwing. But which screws do we use? [music] This case comes with coarser

00:18:38.799 --> 00:18:46.160
threaded 632 screws and finer threaded M3 screws. Which ones are for the

00:18:43.520 --> 00:18:50.000
motherboard? Well, it actually varies from case to case. So, there's a couple

00:18:48.160 --> 00:18:54.720
ways to check. You can consult your manual or you can just trial and error

00:18:51.760 --> 00:18:59.440
it by starting with a finer threaded M3. It won't do any damage. It'll just slip

00:18:57.280 --> 00:19:04.400
out if it's not the right size and you can switch over to a 632. In our case,

00:19:02.480 --> 00:19:09.039
M3 is the right size. So, we're going to go ahead and do our other eight screws.

00:19:07.520 --> 00:19:12.400
If you're having trouble getting a screw installed because there's a cooler in

00:19:10.559 --> 00:19:16.160
the way or another obstruction, honestly, the best advice I can give you

00:19:14.160 --> 00:19:19.360
is not to sweat it. If you've got eight of your nine screws installed, that's no

00:19:18.053 --> 00:19:23.919
[music] problem as long as you don't have any extra standoffs. Before we plug

00:19:21.760 --> 00:19:28.000
in our front IO, let's go ahead and get one of those fans moved. Normally, I

00:19:26.160 --> 00:19:33.200
would suggest removing the front panel, usually by grabbing it firmly from the

00:19:30.080 --> 00:19:35.600
bottom, but in this case, um, they are

00:19:33.200 --> 00:19:40.799
not screwed in from the front. They are actually screwed in in the back. You can

00:19:39.120 --> 00:19:43.919
use scissors to cut these, but I really don't recommend it. Side cutters are

00:19:42.480 --> 00:19:50.080
much safer if you don't want to risk damaging any of the wires that they're holding. It's worth noting that many

00:19:47.280 --> 00:19:54.320
modern fans will have two or even three connectors [music] coming off of them.

00:19:51.840 --> 00:19:59.600
This guy right here with four pins or three pins in these little ridges is for

00:19:56.160 --> 00:20:01.840
power. This one right here is for RGB.

00:19:59.600 --> 00:20:04.720
And the last one is for RGB daisy chaining. So, I'll show you guys how to

00:20:02.960 --> 00:20:07.679
hook this back up once we've moved it. Since we're going to be using this as an

00:20:06.160 --> 00:20:11.108
exhaust, now we're going to want to look for the little arrows that indicate the

00:20:09.520 --> 00:20:14.880
direction that the blades travel. This [music] one right here, and the

00:20:12.720 --> 00:20:20.240
direction that the air flow goes. And then I usually like to have the leads up

00:20:18.480 --> 00:20:24.559
towards this cutout at the back of the case so that I can route it back behind

00:20:22.640 --> 00:20:28.080
the motherboard tray. Now just tighten these boys up. You want to go hard

00:20:26.320 --> 00:20:31.919
enough that the fan is held firmly to the case without vibrating or rattling,

00:20:30.159 --> 00:20:36.080
but not so hard that you strip out the threads. And they are plastic, so you do

00:20:34.640 --> 00:20:39.440
need to be a little bit careful. Now it's time to hook our RGB back up. And

00:20:37.919 --> 00:20:44.480
in order to do this correctly, we need to understand a little bit of how the

00:20:41.360 --> 00:20:46.320
RGB works. In this case, it has a lead

00:20:44.480 --> 00:20:50.400
that plugs into your motherboard to get an RGB signal. And then it has a

00:20:48.559 --> 00:20:54.799
built-in hub. So, we're going to need to power this with a SATA power adapter

00:20:52.240 --> 00:20:58.720
later. But more importantly for us right now, we need to have a look at how the

00:20:57.039 --> 00:21:04.080
other devices are plugged into it and daisy chained together. So, the first

00:21:01.039 --> 00:21:06.559
link goes to our bottom fan here, which

00:21:04.080 --> 00:21:11.200
then is daisy chained into our second fan here. Meaning that any multi-device

00:21:09.120 --> 00:21:17.760
animations are going to start at the bottom front of the case and d make

00:21:15.039 --> 00:21:21.840
their way to the top back if we connect it like this. If we had additional fans,

00:21:20.159 --> 00:21:25.360
say here and here, for example, we would want to make sure that we plug in this

00:21:23.200 --> 00:21:28.240
one, then this one, then this one. Otherwise, things are going to end up

00:21:26.559 --> 00:21:31.440
looking a little weird. Since we're back here, now is a great time to route any

00:21:29.919 --> 00:21:35.840
other cables that need to make their way to the front of the case as well. So,

00:21:33.280 --> 00:21:40.000
we're going to put our USB 3 over here. We're gonna put our power switch right

00:21:38.240 --> 00:21:44.000
around here. And we're gonna put our front panel audio. Oh, is there a hole

00:21:42.159 --> 00:21:49.440
there? Oh, yeah, there is. Right around there. Hey, stay in there. Hey. Hey.

00:21:47.200 --> 00:21:53.600
Hey, stay in there. Back at the front, here's our USB3 connector. You can see

00:21:51.120 --> 00:21:57.120
it's got a little key and a little slot to make sure that it only goes in one

00:21:55.200 --> 00:22:01.520
way. The most important thing here is just to make sure you've actually got it

00:21:59.280 --> 00:22:06.559
perfectly lined up before you press down because those little pins in the socket

00:22:03.440 --> 00:22:08.720
are extremely fragile.

00:22:06.559 --> 00:22:12.799
There we go. The power switch is not keyed and like the rest of these

00:22:10.720 --> 00:22:17.679
connectors for the reset switch, power LED, and drive activity LED is not

00:22:15.840 --> 00:22:21.200
really very fragile. So, we're just going to throw it on there. And the

00:22:19.280 --> 00:22:24.075
reality of it is if you plug any of these in in the wrong orientation, it

00:22:22.880 --> 00:22:28.320
won't harm anything. [music] Just try it the other way if your LEDs

00:22:25.919 --> 00:22:33.280
don't illuminate. Finally, our front panel audio connector is keyed and is

00:22:31.200 --> 00:22:38.400
going to go into Oh, look how handy dandly labeled that is into our audio

00:22:35.865 --> 00:22:43.360
[music] header right there. Boop. Wow, look at all that progress.

00:22:41.200 --> 00:22:48.080
Now, let's plug in our fans. Usually, there are headers along this edge, along

00:22:45.919 --> 00:22:52.559
this edge, and potentially at the top left. And that's where they are. So,

00:22:50.400 --> 00:22:57.440
sure. Let's plug these two into the headers right here. And let's plug this

00:22:54.720 --> 00:23:00.960
one into the one up there. Something you may notice, by the way, about plugging

00:22:59.280 --> 00:23:05.360
things in in the top corner of the case here is that when you have an air cooler

00:23:02.559 --> 00:23:09.520
installed, it's pretty freaking tricky. So, if you have a modular power supply,

00:23:07.360 --> 00:23:14.320
a good pro tip is to plug in this connector and realistically anything

00:23:11.679 --> 00:23:17.440
else before you put on your cooler. Otherwise, [music]

00:23:15.120 --> 00:23:21.679
hey, worst case scenario, you can pop off this fan, take the cooler out, plug

00:23:20.080 --> 00:23:25.600
everything in, and then pop it right back on. Don't sweat it. It's a minor

00:23:23.760 --> 00:23:32.559
mistake. Now, it's time to plug in our RGB. Woohoo. Let's just go ahead and run

00:23:28.799 --> 00:23:36.400
it over to Oh no, we already used it

00:23:32.559 --> 00:23:38.880
when we plugged in our cooler. Hm. Well,

00:23:36.400 --> 00:23:43.760
there is another four pin RGB connector here, but don't try to force it. The

00:23:41.520 --> 00:23:48.960
four pin ones run at 12 VTs and they will fry any of these 3 pin 5V LEDs that

00:23:46.880 --> 00:23:52.799
you plug into them. Fortunately, we've got a couple of options. Our

00:23:50.559 --> 00:23:59.120
motherboard, like many modern ones, has two RGB connectors. So, we can just run

00:23:55.840 --> 00:24:02.320
that down there. Or, if you remember, we

00:23:59.120 --> 00:24:07.080
have daisy chains already. We could just

00:24:02.320 --> 00:24:07.080
plug this into our motherboard here

00:24:08.480 --> 00:24:15.840
and then grab the other end of our daisy chain for our CPU RGB. It's up to you.

00:24:14.640 --> 00:24:19.840
Just whatever you do, [music] don't bend the pins like I just did. Now, it's time

00:24:18.080 --> 00:24:24.000
for our power supply, which I realized I mentioned earlier, but never really

00:24:21.279 --> 00:24:28.559
talked about. We've gone with the RM750e from Corsair. It's fully modular. It's

00:24:26.559 --> 00:24:33.200
quiet. It's reasonably [music] priced. And perhaps most importantly, it's rated

00:24:31.120 --> 00:24:37.840
platinum from Cybernetics, who I trust quite a bit more than the folks at 80

00:24:35.679 --> 00:24:42.159
Plus these days to tell me what's a good power supply. We haven't done any of our

00:24:40.000 --> 00:24:46.880
own testing on this one, but that'll be coming soon enough at ltlabs.com.

00:24:45.039 --> 00:24:50.880
Now, there's two different orientations. You can see that I put it in with the

00:24:48.559 --> 00:24:54.960
fan facing the bottom. And that's great as long as I've got a case that has a

00:24:52.960 --> 00:25:00.159
filtered air intake on the bottom, just like this one. Oo, and it's easy to

00:24:56.960 --> 00:25:01.840
clean, too. But if I had a case that

00:25:00.159 --> 00:25:06.320
either [music] didn't have a filtered intake on the bottom, or didn't have

00:25:04.159 --> 00:25:09.520
raised feet to make sure that it's getting a supply of fresh air and it's

00:25:08.240 --> 00:25:13.840
not going to get suffocated by my carpet, then I might turn it around and

00:25:11.760 --> 00:25:18.880
have my intake at the top. But that would mean that it [music] would typically run a little bit warmer. You

00:25:16.880 --> 00:25:24.202
can see that I pre-attached my cables. And the ones that I need for this build

00:25:20.640 --> 00:25:26.480
are my 24 pin connector, my 8 pin

00:25:24.202 --> 00:25:32.000
[music] EPS connector. Oh, where'd it go?

00:25:28.240 --> 00:25:34.159
Aha, there it is. My 8 pin EPS or CPU

00:25:32.000 --> 00:25:39.039
power connector. Distinguishable from the other 8 pin by the fact that it

00:25:36.159 --> 00:25:45.440
separates into two four pins rather than da da da a six and a two. So, my two

00:25:42.559 --> 00:25:49.200
PCIe 8 pin power connectors. And finally, a SATA power connector. I'm

00:25:48.320 --> 00:25:55.120
going to [music] need that. Actually, I'm going to need two of these, but I have four. Now, just to mix things up,

00:25:52.960 --> 00:25:58.960
I'm going to be using the 632 screws that I mentioned before, but didn't use.

00:25:57.600 --> 00:26:04.720
Just four of these in the back of the power supply. And if you have any extras, hey, don't worry. They're

00:26:02.559 --> 00:26:10.080
delicious. Now, to run these to where they go. This

00:26:06.640 --> 00:26:13.520
one goes about here.

00:26:10.080 --> 00:26:15.200
This one goes uh here. This one goes

00:26:13.520 --> 00:26:18.320
where our GPU is going to end up right around.

00:26:16.720 --> 00:26:23.279
And our SATA power is going to hang out down here. I'll show you guys what we're going to do with that later. The

00:26:21.520 --> 00:26:26.559
trickiest part of plugging in these big long connectors is just making sure

00:26:24.960 --> 00:26:30.880
you've got them oriented right. So, there's a little latch here. There's a

00:26:28.799 --> 00:26:36.080
little catch here. Those go on the same side. Line them up. And you got to

00:26:34.080 --> 00:26:39.679
really press and make sure that you hear that click. You guys hear that? Let's

00:26:38.159 --> 00:26:46.919
try again. click. If it's not clicked,

00:26:43.039 --> 00:26:46.919
it didn't stick.

00:26:47.520 --> 00:26:52.960
Sure. I mean, sometimes they don't click.

00:26:51.360 --> 00:27:00.480
Same goes for our eight pin up in the corner. Let's go ahead and click that back together to make the installation a

00:26:55.840 --> 00:27:02.240
little bit easier. And then, uh, yeah,

00:27:00.480 --> 00:27:05.679
this will be a little bit tricky, but but nothing you can't handle, you

00:27:03.760 --> 00:27:11.760
dextrous folks. Now, it's time to install our hard drive. We went with the

00:27:07.440 --> 00:27:13.279
two TBTE WD Blue from WD because it was

00:27:11.760 --> 00:27:17.520
affordable and we needed somewhere to put our games. So, let's go ahead and

00:27:15.679 --> 00:27:22.000
just pop these little sides out of these toolless hard drive trays. Then, we just

00:27:19.919 --> 00:27:26.000
put this bad boy in here. We're going to want these screw holes to line up with

00:27:24.000 --> 00:27:31.279
the little nubbins that we're going to close onto them. Anytime now, buddy.

00:27:28.720 --> 00:27:36.960
Then, we just close these up. Take the whole thing and give it a little shovel

00:27:34.320 --> 00:27:41.360
into this tray down here. Look at that. Since we're down here, now

00:27:39.520 --> 00:27:47.760
is a perfectly good time to go ahead and plug in our SATA power. Note that this

00:27:43.679 --> 00:27:50.400
is also keyed like so many other things.

00:27:47.760 --> 00:27:54.399
There we are. And oh, I guess now's a perfectly good time to plug in our SATA

00:27:52.240 --> 00:27:58.159
data as well. [music] We have a side panel to close here. So, I'm going to go

00:27:55.840 --> 00:28:06.279
ahead and use this right angle connector as long as we've got enough clearance.

00:28:01.120 --> 00:28:06.279
Here we go. A yeah,

00:28:06.799 --> 00:28:12.399
there you go. The lock goes on the top. [music] Now we plug our next SATA power

00:28:10.480 --> 00:28:17.279
connector into our front panel there. There we go. And we can just tuck these

00:28:14.880 --> 00:28:21.279
boys, I don't know, right around there. Now, it's worth noting, by the way, that

00:28:19.120 --> 00:28:24.000
these trays can accommodate 2 and 1/2 in drives as well. You can see they've got

00:28:22.640 --> 00:28:28.799
these little holes so you can screw in an SSD. I don't really recommend buying

00:28:26.480 --> 00:28:34.320
SATA SSDs anymore, though, now that the prices are so similar to NVMe SSDs and

00:28:31.440 --> 00:28:37.279
the performance is decidedly last gen. But hey, if you're bringing over an old

00:28:35.679 --> 00:28:40.960
drive, you can either install them on these sleds or because they have no

00:28:39.360 --> 00:28:44.880
moving parts and it doesn't matter. You can huck them on these, you can [music]

00:28:43.360 --> 00:28:48.880
just pile them up in the bottom of your case like I've seen so many people do.

00:28:46.799 --> 00:28:53.039
You just kind of you do you do you do whatever works for you. Now, let's take

00:28:50.559 --> 00:28:57.679
the other end of this SATA cable, thread it through here. Oh wow, that's an

00:28:55.600 --> 00:29:02.480
amazing noise. There we go. Turn this around and plug

00:29:00.320 --> 00:29:07.039
it into our right angle SATA connector here at the front of the case.

00:29:05.440 --> 00:29:10.960
This motherboard will support up to four drives. Not bad. Now, look at that.

00:29:09.360 --> 00:29:14.720
We're just about done. All we got to do is a little bit of cable management. You

00:29:13.039 --> 00:29:19.200
don't have to do a lot. I won't judge you, but think of yourself like a PC

00:29:17.200 --> 00:29:24.720
building detective. You want to be able to at least close the case, you know?

00:29:22.159 --> 00:29:30.960
Now for the big moment. unboxing our GPU. We went with the Radeon 6800. Is it

00:29:28.640 --> 00:29:36.080
the most modern thing? No, it's actually last gen, but it's a great value, which

00:29:33.760 --> 00:29:40.480
has been kind of a theme for this build. And compared to the 7700,

00:29:38.720 --> 00:29:44.880
it yeah, consumes a little bit more power, but performs similarly and is

00:29:42.799 --> 00:29:50.080
less expensive. And compared to similarly priced offerings from team

00:29:46.720 --> 00:29:52.799
green like the RTX 4060 series, it has

00:29:50.080 --> 00:29:57.840
16 gigs of video memory, which should make it hopefully

00:29:55.279 --> 00:30:00.960
a good performer for quite a few years to come. Before we can install it

00:29:59.520 --> 00:30:05.600
though, we need to prep our case for the surgery. Let's go ahead and loosen our

00:30:02.880 --> 00:30:09.520
PCI slot cover holder thing. Not every case is going to have one of these, but

00:30:07.679 --> 00:30:13.120
every case will have [music] these screws at the back. So, let's just

00:30:11.600 --> 00:30:17.679
figure out which slot we're going to be using. It's going to be this one. So,

00:30:15.120 --> 00:30:24.000
we're going to take out these two screws to accommodate

00:30:19.520 --> 00:30:25.440
Uhhuh. the double slot IO plate.

00:30:24.000 --> 00:30:28.640
With that out of the way, now's a great time to take a closer look at our GPU

00:30:27.200 --> 00:30:34.080
and talk through some of the choices that we made earlier. You saw us pop off

00:30:30.720 --> 00:30:35.440
this PCIe slot cover earlier. Damn it.

00:30:34.080 --> 00:30:39.679
Well, whatever. I don't need that. So, if you didn't test on the bench, now is

00:30:37.440 --> 00:30:44.880
a good time to take that off. as well as any display ports that you're planning

00:30:41.279 --> 00:30:46.320
to use, be they HDMI or DisplayPort.

00:30:44.880 --> 00:30:50.399
Now, there's two other things. Remember when I said that the fan that we wanted

00:30:48.399 --> 00:30:58.120
to take away was this one in the top? The reason for that is that our GPU uses

00:30:52.720 --> 00:30:58.120
a three fan design that draws air in

00:30:59.279 --> 00:31:04.880
here. So, we want to be bringing that fresh air from those bottom fans and

00:31:02.880 --> 00:31:09.279
blowing it right across [music] our GPU. The other decision that we made earlier

00:31:06.720 --> 00:31:14.320
was to use our old school 8pin [music] PCIe power connectors. That's because

00:31:11.760 --> 00:31:20.159
this card does not use the new 12volt high power connector. It uses dual 8pin

00:31:17.120 --> 00:31:22.240
PCIe power connectors. Now we can go

00:31:20.159 --> 00:31:27.399
ahead and get this installed. All we got to do is line up the slot with the slot.

00:31:28.000 --> 00:31:35.919
Watch out for this. Okay. Make sure that these are inside the case and not

00:31:32.480 --> 00:31:35.919
ramming into the motherboard.

00:31:36.320 --> 00:31:42.240
push down firmly. You should feel a little bit of

00:31:40.159 --> 00:31:47.200
resistance. And then if you want to make sure that it's in, you can just see if

00:31:44.880 --> 00:31:52.240
this lock at the back of the PCI slot here is engaged. Mine is, and it's not

00:31:50.320 --> 00:31:56.559
going anywhere. Now, all we got to do is find those

00:31:54.480 --> 00:32:02.640
power connectors that I just showed you. Hope that we didn't Oh, no. Get them

00:31:59.519 --> 00:32:04.480
mashed under the GPU. Ha. There we go.

00:32:02.640 --> 00:32:09.039
And then just like we did on our motherboard connectors, check for where

00:32:06.240 --> 00:32:12.480
the clip is. Check for where the holder for the clip is. Make sure we didn't

00:32:10.559 --> 00:32:16.080
cable manage them too tight and plug them in. It's worth noting, by the way,

00:32:14.240 --> 00:32:19.840
that some folks recommend using two separate cables rather than a daisy

00:32:18.159 --> 00:32:23.760
chain style connector like this one. If you've got a GPU that requires two

00:32:21.360 --> 00:32:29.440
plugs, they're not wrong. That is better. But the actual risk of anything

00:32:26.720 --> 00:32:34.240
going wrong by using one of these is pretty much negligible. And this isn't a

00:32:32.000 --> 00:32:38.000
particularly high draw GPU in the first place, so I am taking a calculated

00:32:36.080 --> 00:32:42.399
non-risk here. Now, it's time to screw our GPU back in. These are often thumb

00:32:40.080 --> 00:32:46.640
screws, but I strongly recommend using a screwdriver to install them anyway

00:32:44.240 --> 00:32:50.240
because it can be really tricky to get these holes aligned just right and have

00:32:48.559 --> 00:32:53.840
your thumbs in there like that. So, just yeah, do yourself a favor. Use a

00:32:51.679 --> 00:32:57.200
magnetic screwdriver if you can. I also like to lift the GPU up a little bit

00:32:55.519 --> 00:33:00.640
while I'm installing it cuz, you know, it's going to sag a bit anyway and I

00:32:58.720 --> 00:33:03.760
like to see it level. That's also one of the reasons that I like having the power

00:33:02.240 --> 00:33:06.640
connectors come from the top and then I'll tension them quite tight to take a

00:33:05.360 --> 00:33:09.840
little bit of the strain off if I don't happen to have a GPU support. Of course,

00:33:08.559 --> 00:33:13.919
if you have a 3D printer and know someone who has one, there are like a

00:33:11.919 --> 00:33:21.399
bazillion GPU supports that you can print out. And is that it? Let's get her

00:33:18.080 --> 00:33:21.399
buttoned up.

00:33:24.480 --> 00:33:31.600
Good job. You did it. Treat yourself to a snack.

00:33:29.440 --> 00:33:37.360
M and she still works. Fantastic. Not only

00:33:34.320 --> 00:33:40.399
that, but wow, great job. Your RGB

00:33:37.360 --> 00:33:41.840
lighting looks amazing.

00:33:40.399 --> 00:33:47.720
Now, if you don't mind, I'm just going to excuse myself to the washroom. I think I might have bruised my head

00:33:44.720 --> 00:33:47.720
earlier.

00:33:50.523 --> 00:33:58.399
[screaming] Oh no. If I can't get these off, I'll

00:33:55.200 --> 00:34:01.360
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