Oh man, I keep watching all these PC build videos, but the camera angles are
so confusing. Where does this even go? I'll help you along.
That was a close one. Let's do this. Here's how to build a PC. Start by
clearing a tidy workspace with everything you need and gathering the
necessary tools. While realistically you can build a modern computer with just a
number two Phillips head screwdriver and maybe a number one, there's a few other
things I like to have in my kit. Some cutting implements for opening packages
and boxes. A pair of side cutters for terminating zip ties. A pair of
needle-nose pliers for tightening the odd nut or reaching into tight spaces.
Some cable management ties. I like these reusable hook andloop style ones. An
anti-static wrist strap. I'll show you guys how to use this later. These are
great so you don't end up playing baby simulator instead of PC building
simulator. [music] The first thing I'm going to have you open up is your power supply. Don't
worry too much about the documentation or the accessories just yet. I want you
to grab the main power cord, the power
supply unit itself, and
a delicious snack.
In all seriousness, those are not nearly as delicious as they sound. Now, we plug
this boy in and plug it into the wall.
[music] Then, from here, we've got a couple of options. Either we can
diligently touch this anytime we're about to handle something sensitive, or
we can know we're just bound to be focusing on other things and put on our
ESD bracelet with the metal side in making contact with our bare skin and
then attach our clip to any exposed metal on our power supply.
Realistically, paint is not a great conductor, but if you give it a little
scratchy scratch, it'll conduct ever so slightly better. Now, obviously, there
are other ways to ground yourself. I'm looking at them right now. But if you
know how these work, I don't need to explain to you how to use an ESD
bracelet. Even you smarties might not be using the anklet hack yet, though. I'm a
big fan of this. You just clip on and your hands are completely unencumbered.
Also, if you forget,
whatever. Let's break away, baby. Now, we're ready. All we need is any
reference materials that we might find useful. And if you've got one, a sponsor
like iFix it. It's May, so it may be
time to fix up your old broken gear. From now until May 31st, you can get 20%
off select iFixit tool kits by going to the link in the video description. Let's
start with the motherboard. We're going to have all these parts linked below if you guys want to follow along at home.
But don't feel pressured to use exactly the same stuff. That's kind of the
beauty of building a custom PC. The basic process is the same, even if the
part numbers change a little bit from year to year. Now, one thing to note is
anytime you're handling a board, you're going to want to handle it by the edges,
by big plastic pieces like this, or large metal pieces like here and back
here. And as for where you're going to want to put it down, well, see, I have
an ESD safe workmat, but you probably won't. So, conveniently, your
motherboard comes with a non-conductive platform called the box. Just put it on
there. Before we get too far ahead of ourselves, though, there are a couple of things we need from in here. This small
M.2 two retention screw, this IO shield,
our Wi-Fi antennas, and I don't know, a
SATA cable. Sure, if you're a first-time builder, or even if you're not, now is a
much easier time to familiarize yourself with the layout of your motherboard. The
B760 DS3 HAC from Gigabyte is not a
particularly high-end board, but what it does have is the features we need and a
very standard layout. Our CPU power connectors up here in the top left in
its usual location. Our motherboard power connector is along the right hand
edge. Our CPU socket is right here dead center at the top with our RAM slots
just to the right, color-coded for dual channel operation.
Our M.2 storage slots are just south of the CPU socket and between the PCI
Express expansion slots. And then all of our front connectors are along the
bottom edge with audio, RGB, USB 2,
fans, our front IO. So that's our front power button and front lights. Some
internal connectors for SATA, those are for our hard drives. And these are
pretty important. USB [music] 3 and USB3
type-C along the right hand edge, usually under the motherboard power
connector. The last thing is at the top there's going to be a special fan
header, usually called CPU. That one is
special because if for whatever reason your CPU fan fails, the system can be
programmed to shut down safely instead of overheating. Now, let's talk CPU. I
don't know quite how this happened, but Intel has become a great choice for
budget gaming builds these days, and the Core i5 12600 KF is a fantastic choice.
It's got six P cores and four PU cores. That is to say, six performance cores
and four that don't perform quite as well. It turbos to up to 4.9 GHz. And
jokes about them aside, those weaker efficiency cores actually make it a
formidable choice not just for gaming, but even for streaming and light content
creation. Something to note though is that as an FK, this is not going to
allow us to use our onboard graphics outputs. And we do prefer to have those,
even if it's just to simplify troubleshooting. But for a $30
difference in budget at this price point, it's just not something that we
can justify for something we'll be replacing before we ever even power on
the system. Now, it's time to get this thing installed. All we've got to do is
push down the ARM here. Lift up this bad
boy right here. Find the little golden triangle that's on the corner of our
CPU. In this case,
right there. Then find the corresponding triangle at the corner of the socket. Or
if you want to be even more careful not to accidentally touch these pins, you
can check before you lift it up. Line those two triangles up. Drop the CPU
into place with no force whatsoever. If
it doesn't go in, it may not be keyed correctly. So, watch out for that. Give
it a little wiggle to make sure it's in place. Lower the top cover. Lower the
ARM. And this should pop off. Just a little
something like that. Hold on to this though. If you ever need to RMA your
motherboard back to the manufacturer, they will require you to have this.
Stop eating things. Now, let's talk about another area where
we saved a few bucks. We went with 32 gigs of DDR4 memory, opting for this kit
of G-Skill Rip Jaws 5. Some folks might
have preferred we went with DDR5, but at around $80, this is a great kit for
gaming today and in the near future and fit comfortably within our approximately
$1,000 budget. For installation, the first thing you're going to want to do
is check where they go. And woo, conveniently, this motherboard has a
little silk screened legend that tells you, but if not, you can double check
your motherboard manual. Usually, you're going to use color-coded slots and
usually the slots furthest away from the CPU.
Just peel back the tabs, press down firmly until they click, and you should
be good to go. By the way, if you noticed how
three-dimensional and spatial all of that was, you're probably watching on
the Vision Pro with the file that we provided at LMG.gg/flowplane.
For everyone else, guess what? You're also a winner because you didn't spend
$3,500 on a Vision Pro. Now, we're going to need some storage for our operating
system. And hey, what are you doing? What year is it for the operating
system? Yeah, that's better. We've gone with the Crucial P3 Plus. Is it the
fastest drive on the market? No. Does it have a DRAM cache which can improve
longevity and performance? No. But what
it does have is good enough performance and a very attractive price. We've got a
1 TBTE drive here which will be enough for our operating system, our
applications, and maybe even a couple of games. And while we recognize we could
have spent more on a higher performance drive, we found that a mainstream PCIe
Gen 4 drive is all most people are bound to notice in desktop use anyway. So the
only question is, do we install it in the top slot, which tends to run at
higher speeds and lower latency and is connected directly to the CPU, or do we
run it in one of the bottom slots, which typically shares its lanes with other
nearby slots. For us, it's really not going to matter. So eeny meeny money.
one. All we've got to do is align our little gumstick form factor drive with
the slot right there. Push it in, push
it down, and then retrieve that little screw that we had earlier. And this is
where you're going to need that number one Phillips head screwdriver. And screw
it down a little something like this.
It's worth noting that many modern motherboards have unique toolless
installation methods for these M.2 drives or even large shrouds or heat
sinks that cover up the slots. So, if you find that that's the case, just
consult your manual for how to operate these slots and how to gain access to
them. When you're installing your CPU cooler, the first thing you're going to
want to do is double check what socket you're using. This will often be silk
screened on the motherboard. In our case, we can see socket 1700, but
otherwise, you will certainly find it in the manual or on the product page for
your CPU. Then, what we're going to do is we're going to open this up. Ignore
absolutely everything except get out of here. Ah, there it is. We missed it.
This is very important because pretty much every cooler installs a little bit
differently and sometimes a little differently on every single socket. So,
we're going to want to find the specific instructions
for Intel 1700. Now, obviously, your
mileage may vary for this part depending on which cooler you bought, but the
Thermalite Phantom Spirit 12SE is a great choice at just about any budget.
So, I'm going to show you guys how to install it. starting by grabbing the
back plate and flipping over your motherboard. I don't generally like
peeling these and actually sticking this thing down, but as you can see in a
previous take, I already started. So, I guess we're down this path now. So, all
I'm going to do is kind of stick it to my shirt a little bit to make sure that it's not too sticky. Now, on older
sockets, the orientation mattered, but on LGA 1700, it doesn't. So, we're just
going to pop these little posts through the holes in the motherboard,
stick that down, and we should be good to go. Now we put all of our fun little
blue spacers in place. Line up our little mounting bars.
Now for one of the most controversial steps, applying thermal compound. Here's
how you do it.
That's not how I would do it. That's how you do it. Look at the mess you made.
Being serious though, that would have worked fine. You can't really put too
much thermal compound on your CPU. All it does is make a mess. But if you don't
want to waste it, then an amount more like this is more reasonable. We used to
say the size of an uncooked grain of rice. Now I would say think of whatever
the trendiest most hipster rice you can think of is and how big it is when it's
cooked and kind of go with that. If you have a much larger CPU, like a
workstation size or server size CPU, either spread a thin layer across the
entire shiny integrated heat spreader or
check their documentation. Now for the most important step. Everything else you
did was for not. If you do not remove this peel, remove the peel. Now shiny.
Take that shiny. Put it on the other shiny.
Line up the post with the screws. Then give her but not fully. Once it's
caught, I would strongly recommend tightening the other side until it
catches. And then tightening slowly in an alternating fashion. You can just
wrench one side all the way down and then try and get the other side to go,
but it can be a little bit tricky. Puts a lot of strain on the motherboard, too.
We are done. Well, not done. I mean,
it's not a computer, is it? But done enough to deserve a nice snack.
Now that we've enjoyed a light meal and a very heavy trip to the toilet, we're
ready to put these wire clips onto our fans. A little something like so.
Then we lower the fan down. Make sure it's even. Not that it really matters,
but it matters a lot to me. And pull the clips.
Just like that. See, not going anywhere. Not that it would want to. Anyway, look,
I brought it a little friend. It's worth noting that this one is uh not going to
go all the way down because it interferes with our RAM, but that's
okay. We're still getting most of the benefit of that air flow. Now, because
modern day, we need to plug in a thousand connectors. JK, it's not that
bad. All we've got to do is daisy chain together these RGB connectors. [music]
You can see there's just three pins, so they only go in one way. Boop. Then take
this female end and plug it into where there is usually a header at the top of
the motherboard. Then for these other two, you've got a couple of options. Our
cooler did include a Y cable, so we can just plug into that and plug both of
them into our CPU fan header. But our motherboard has a CPU fan and CPU opt
header, so we can just plug both of them into that.
Delicious. Now, for cable management,
okay, I'm just kidding. A, don't do that
because you can actually accidentally end up with cables that are stuck in
your fan blades and they won't spin. That's bad. And B, because it's not
really the time for cable management. Now is the time to do a quick test boot
here on the test platform before you assemble the whole system and cable
manage everything. It's a lot easier to swap a component now than it is to do it
2 hours from now.
And moment of truth, we can see our power button is these two pins right
here. We short them and
it's alive. Well, we don't know that yet. Believe it
or not, it's normal for the system to take quite a while to turn on in the
first place, especially AMD systems, while they undergo a process called
memory training. So, I'm not digging into my motherboard manual for what
these diagnostic LEDs mean for probably at least a solid minute or two. Oh,
well. Okay. Well, the monitor has to be on.
That's step one. Boom. Booted. Great
sign. For bonus points, we could install Windows now. Get all of our drivers set
up. Make sure everything's working correctly. Run some stress tests. But
realistically, you're not that patient. You're going to
put the rest of the system together. Now that you know all the bits and pieces
work, you can set these aside. And it's time to get back to the build and meet
your case. Doesn't she look so beautiful? Just lift up the veil. Give
her a little kiss. We settled for the Fantex Eclipse 360A.
It's a great value at the best of times. And when we put together this parts
list, it was just $50 after rebate. It
comes with three 120 mm fans in the
front. And even if we're not a huge fan of the configuration, we'd suggest
moving maybe this top one to be a rear exhaust or a top exhaust. There's no
doubt that it'll be enough cooling for our rig. [music] Personally, I like to
remove all my side panels and put them aside so there's no risk of them getting
scratched or damaged while I'm completing the rest of the build. A safe
place to put them is in the box with foam separating the two pieces. Now,
it's time to track down all of your mounting accessories. These will usually be in either a bag or a box somewhere in
the case or in the case packaging. In Fantex's [music]
case, pun intended, it's clearly labeled in this box. And
nope, this one does not include their little trademark organizers. I guess
that's only on their more premium cases. Good luck figuring out what all these
are for, JK. I'm going to help. But before we get to that, there's one
really fun step that everyone loves. Installing the IO shield. If you have a
mid-range or a high-end board, it's possible that it didn't come with one of
these. Congratulations. If you're anyone else, now's a [music] great time to find
any of the little pieces that fold back like this. Give them a little extra fold
[music] to make sure that they don't end up stuck behind your port. Then line it
up with the rectangular opening at the back of the case, pushing on each corner
one at a time, knowing that there's a solid chance one of the other corners
will pop out when you do it. If you're not sure about the orientation, you can
just check the back of the motherboard and make sure that the holes correspond
to the ports. Speaking of your motherboard, now's a perfect time to
install it in the case. But first, we're going to do a quick sanity check. Some
cases come with motherboard standoffs pre-installed in the motherboard tray.
In fact, you can see I've got six nine
of them in this particular case. This is really convenient, but if you happen to
have a mismatch between the whole layout of your motherboard and the
pre-installed standoffs in your case, it can cause a standoff to correspond to a
spot where there isn't a hole and scratch the traces, permanently
destroying your board. So, [music] we've done a quick count and determined that
we have both nine standoffs and nine holes. We're going to orient the back of
the board with the IO shield. Then,
keeping this side well clear of those metal standoffs, slide it toward the
back and hopefully, there we go, get it
to line up perfectly with our standoffs. You may find this process easier if you
lay the case down, but I'm making a video, so I can't do that. Now, quickly
install one screw, and only one for now.
There's a couple of quick things that we want to check.
First, are there any metal tabs sticking into our ports, preventing us from using
them, or worse, shorting them out, causing damage to our board? [music] No.
Good to go. Second, have we accidentally caught anything under our board that
prevents us from screwing it down? Ah, there you can see we've got a cable
that's stuck back there. If we tried to screw the board down with that back
there, we could accidentally cause a lot of undue stress as we tighten down the
one side while this part is bulging out.
Also, since we're pushing it down, the last thing we want to check is that
through every single hole, we can see a standoff. If we pre-counted them and we
know that they match, then if we can see a standoff through everyone, [music]
that means we have no extras that can damage our board. Time to start
screwing. But which screws do we use? [music] This case comes with coarser
threaded 632 screws and finer threaded M3 screws. Which ones are for the
motherboard? Well, it actually varies from case to case. So, there's a couple
ways to check. You can consult your manual or you can just trial and error
it by starting with a finer threaded M3. It won't do any damage. It'll just slip
out if it's not the right size and you can switch over to a 632. In our case,
M3 is the right size. So, we're going to go ahead and do our other eight screws.
If you're having trouble getting a screw installed because there's a cooler in
the way or another obstruction, honestly, the best advice I can give you
is not to sweat it. If you've got eight of your nine screws installed, that's no
[music] problem as long as you don't have any extra standoffs. Before we plug
in our front IO, let's go ahead and get one of those fans moved. Normally, I
would suggest removing the front panel, usually by grabbing it firmly from the
bottom, but in this case, um, they are
not screwed in from the front. They are actually screwed in in the back. You can
use scissors to cut these, but I really don't recommend it. Side cutters are
much safer if you don't want to risk damaging any of the wires that they're holding. It's worth noting that many
modern fans will have two or even three connectors [music] coming off of them.
This guy right here with four pins or three pins in these little ridges is for
power. This one right here is for RGB.
And the last one is for RGB daisy chaining. So, I'll show you guys how to
hook this back up once we've moved it. Since we're going to be using this as an
exhaust, now we're going to want to look for the little arrows that indicate the
direction that the blades travel. This [music] one right here, and the
direction that the air flow goes. And then I usually like to have the leads up
towards this cutout at the back of the case so that I can route it back behind
the motherboard tray. Now just tighten these boys up. You want to go hard
enough that the fan is held firmly to the case without vibrating or rattling,
but not so hard that you strip out the threads. And they are plastic, so you do
need to be a little bit careful. Now it's time to hook our RGB back up. And
in order to do this correctly, we need to understand a little bit of how the
RGB works. In this case, it has a lead
that plugs into your motherboard to get an RGB signal. And then it has a
built-in hub. So, we're going to need to power this with a SATA power adapter
later. But more importantly for us right now, we need to have a look at how the
other devices are plugged into it and daisy chained together. So, the first
link goes to our bottom fan here, which
then is daisy chained into our second fan here. Meaning that any multi-device
animations are going to start at the bottom front of the case and d make
their way to the top back if we connect it like this. If we had additional fans,
say here and here, for example, we would want to make sure that we plug in this
one, then this one, then this one. Otherwise, things are going to end up
looking a little weird. Since we're back here, now is a great time to route any
other cables that need to make their way to the front of the case as well. So,
we're going to put our USB 3 over here. We're gonna put our power switch right
around here. And we're gonna put our front panel audio. Oh, is there a hole
there? Oh, yeah, there is. Right around there. Hey, stay in there. Hey. Hey.
Hey, stay in there. Back at the front, here's our USB3 connector. You can see
it's got a little key and a little slot to make sure that it only goes in one
way. The most important thing here is just to make sure you've actually got it
perfectly lined up before you press down because those little pins in the socket
are extremely fragile.
There we go. The power switch is not keyed and like the rest of these
connectors for the reset switch, power LED, and drive activity LED is not
really very fragile. So, we're just going to throw it on there. And the
reality of it is if you plug any of these in in the wrong orientation, it
won't harm anything. [music] Just try it the other way if your LEDs
don't illuminate. Finally, our front panel audio connector is keyed and is
going to go into Oh, look how handy dandly labeled that is into our audio
[music] header right there. Boop. Wow, look at all that progress.
Now, let's plug in our fans. Usually, there are headers along this edge, along
this edge, and potentially at the top left. And that's where they are. So,
sure. Let's plug these two into the headers right here. And let's plug this
one into the one up there. Something you may notice, by the way, about plugging
things in in the top corner of the case here is that when you have an air cooler
installed, it's pretty freaking tricky. So, if you have a modular power supply,
a good pro tip is to plug in this connector and realistically anything
else before you put on your cooler. Otherwise, [music]
hey, worst case scenario, you can pop off this fan, take the cooler out, plug
everything in, and then pop it right back on. Don't sweat it. It's a minor
mistake. Now, it's time to plug in our RGB. Woohoo. Let's just go ahead and run
it over to Oh no, we already used it
when we plugged in our cooler. Hm. Well,
there is another four pin RGB connector here, but don't try to force it. The
four pin ones run at 12 VTs and they will fry any of these 3 pin 5V LEDs that
you plug into them. Fortunately, we've got a couple of options. Our
motherboard, like many modern ones, has two RGB connectors. So, we can just run
that down there. Or, if you remember, we
have daisy chains already. We could just
plug this into our motherboard here
and then grab the other end of our daisy chain for our CPU RGB. It's up to you.
Just whatever you do, [music] don't bend the pins like I just did. Now, it's time
for our power supply, which I realized I mentioned earlier, but never really
talked about. We've gone with the RM750e from Corsair. It's fully modular. It's
quiet. It's reasonably [music] priced. And perhaps most importantly, it's rated
platinum from Cybernetics, who I trust quite a bit more than the folks at 80
Plus these days to tell me what's a good power supply. We haven't done any of our
own testing on this one, but that'll be coming soon enough at ltlabs.com.
Now, there's two different orientations. You can see that I put it in with the
fan facing the bottom. And that's great as long as I've got a case that has a
filtered air intake on the bottom, just like this one. Oo, and it's easy to
clean, too. But if I had a case that
either [music] didn't have a filtered intake on the bottom, or didn't have
raised feet to make sure that it's getting a supply of fresh air and it's
not going to get suffocated by my carpet, then I might turn it around and
have my intake at the top. But that would mean that it [music] would typically run a little bit warmer. You
can see that I pre-attached my cables. And the ones that I need for this build
are my 24 pin connector, my 8 pin
[music] EPS connector. Oh, where'd it go?
Aha, there it is. My 8 pin EPS or CPU
power connector. Distinguishable from the other 8 pin by the fact that it
separates into two four pins rather than da da da a six and a two. So, my two
PCIe 8 pin power connectors. And finally, a SATA power connector. I'm
going to [music] need that. Actually, I'm going to need two of these, but I have four. Now, just to mix things up,
I'm going to be using the 632 screws that I mentioned before, but didn't use.
Just four of these in the back of the power supply. And if you have any extras, hey, don't worry. They're
delicious. Now, to run these to where they go. This
one goes about here.
This one goes uh here. This one goes
where our GPU is going to end up right around.
And our SATA power is going to hang out down here. I'll show you guys what we're going to do with that later. The
trickiest part of plugging in these big long connectors is just making sure
you've got them oriented right. So, there's a little latch here. There's a
little catch here. Those go on the same side. Line them up. And you got to
really press and make sure that you hear that click. You guys hear that? Let's
try again. click. If it's not clicked,
it didn't stick.
Sure. I mean, sometimes they don't click.
Same goes for our eight pin up in the corner. Let's go ahead and click that back together to make the installation a
little bit easier. And then, uh, yeah,
this will be a little bit tricky, but but nothing you can't handle, you
dextrous folks. Now, it's time to install our hard drive. We went with the
two TBTE WD Blue from WD because it was
affordable and we needed somewhere to put our games. So, let's go ahead and
just pop these little sides out of these toolless hard drive trays. Then, we just
put this bad boy in here. We're going to want these screw holes to line up with
the little nubbins that we're going to close onto them. Anytime now, buddy.
Then, we just close these up. Take the whole thing and give it a little shovel
into this tray down here. Look at that. Since we're down here, now
is a perfectly good time to go ahead and plug in our SATA power. Note that this
is also keyed like so many other things.
There we are. And oh, I guess now's a perfectly good time to plug in our SATA
data as well. [music] We have a side panel to close here. So, I'm going to go
ahead and use this right angle connector as long as we've got enough clearance.
Here we go. A yeah,
there you go. The lock goes on the top. [music] Now we plug our next SATA power
connector into our front panel there. There we go. And we can just tuck these
boys, I don't know, right around there. Now, it's worth noting, by the way, that
these trays can accommodate 2 and 1/2 in drives as well. You can see they've got
these little holes so you can screw in an SSD. I don't really recommend buying
SATA SSDs anymore, though, now that the prices are so similar to NVMe SSDs and
the performance is decidedly last gen. But hey, if you're bringing over an old
drive, you can either install them on these sleds or because they have no
moving parts and it doesn't matter. You can huck them on these, you can [music]
just pile them up in the bottom of your case like I've seen so many people do.
You just kind of you do you do you do whatever works for you. Now, let's take
the other end of this SATA cable, thread it through here. Oh wow, that's an
amazing noise. There we go. Turn this around and plug
it into our right angle SATA connector here at the front of the case.
This motherboard will support up to four drives. Not bad. Now, look at that.
We're just about done. All we got to do is a little bit of cable management. You
don't have to do a lot. I won't judge you, but think of yourself like a PC
building detective. You want to be able to at least close the case, you know?
Now for the big moment. unboxing our GPU. We went with the Radeon 6800. Is it
the most modern thing? No, it's actually last gen, but it's a great value, which
has been kind of a theme for this build. And compared to the 7700,
it yeah, consumes a little bit more power, but performs similarly and is
less expensive. And compared to similarly priced offerings from team
green like the RTX 4060 series, it has
16 gigs of video memory, which should make it hopefully
a good performer for quite a few years to come. Before we can install it
though, we need to prep our case for the surgery. Let's go ahead and loosen our
PCI slot cover holder thing. Not every case is going to have one of these, but
every case will have [music] these screws at the back. So, let's just
figure out which slot we're going to be using. It's going to be this one. So,
we're going to take out these two screws to accommodate
Uhhuh. the double slot IO plate.
With that out of the way, now's a great time to take a closer look at our GPU
and talk through some of the choices that we made earlier. You saw us pop off
this PCIe slot cover earlier. Damn it.
Well, whatever. I don't need that. So, if you didn't test on the bench, now is
a good time to take that off. as well as any display ports that you're planning
to use, be they HDMI or DisplayPort.
Now, there's two other things. Remember when I said that the fan that we wanted
to take away was this one in the top? The reason for that is that our GPU uses
a three fan design that draws air in
here. So, we want to be bringing that fresh air from those bottom fans and
blowing it right across [music] our GPU. The other decision that we made earlier
was to use our old school 8pin [music] PCIe power connectors. That's because
this card does not use the new 12volt high power connector. It uses dual 8pin
PCIe power connectors. Now we can go
ahead and get this installed. All we got to do is line up the slot with the slot.
Watch out for this. Okay. Make sure that these are inside the case and not
ramming into the motherboard.
push down firmly. You should feel a little bit of
resistance. And then if you want to make sure that it's in, you can just see if
this lock at the back of the PCI slot here is engaged. Mine is, and it's not
going anywhere. Now, all we got to do is find those
power connectors that I just showed you. Hope that we didn't Oh, no. Get them
mashed under the GPU. Ha. There we go.
And then just like we did on our motherboard connectors, check for where
the clip is. Check for where the holder for the clip is. Make sure we didn't
cable manage them too tight and plug them in. It's worth noting, by the way,
that some folks recommend using two separate cables rather than a daisy
chain style connector like this one. If you've got a GPU that requires two
plugs, they're not wrong. That is better. But the actual risk of anything
going wrong by using one of these is pretty much negligible. And this isn't a
particularly high draw GPU in the first place, so I am taking a calculated
non-risk here. Now, it's time to screw our GPU back in. These are often thumb
screws, but I strongly recommend using a screwdriver to install them anyway
because it can be really tricky to get these holes aligned just right and have
your thumbs in there like that. So, just yeah, do yourself a favor. Use a
magnetic screwdriver if you can. I also like to lift the GPU up a little bit
while I'm installing it cuz, you know, it's going to sag a bit anyway and I
like to see it level. That's also one of the reasons that I like having the power
connectors come from the top and then I'll tension them quite tight to take a
little bit of the strain off if I don't happen to have a GPU support. Of course,
if you have a 3D printer and know someone who has one, there are like a
bazillion GPU supports that you can print out. And is that it? Let's get her
buttoned up.
Good job. You did it. Treat yourself to a snack.
M and she still works. Fantastic. Not only
that, but wow, great job. Your RGB
lighting looks amazing.
Now, if you don't mind, I'm just going to excuse myself to the washroom. I think I might have bruised my head
earlier.
[screaming] Oh no. If I can't get these off, I'll
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