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Oh man, I keep watching all these PC build videos, but the camera angles are

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so confusing. Where does this even go? I'll help you along.

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That was a close one. Let's do this. Here's how to build a PC. Start by

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clearing a tidy workspace with everything you need and gathering the

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necessary tools. While realistically you can build a modern computer with just a

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number two Phillips head screwdriver and maybe a number one, there's a few other

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things I like to have in my kit. Some cutting implements for opening packages

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and boxes. A pair of side cutters for terminating zip ties. A pair of

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needle-nose pliers for tightening the odd nut or reaching into tight spaces.

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Some cable management ties. I like these reusable hook andloop style ones. An

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anti-static wrist strap. I'll show you guys how to use this later. These are

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great so you don't end up playing baby simulator instead of PC building

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simulator. [music] The first thing I'm going to have you open up is your power supply. Don't

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worry too much about the documentation or the accessories just yet. I want you

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to grab the main power cord, the power

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supply unit itself, and

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a delicious snack.

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In all seriousness, those are not nearly as delicious as they sound. Now, we plug

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this boy in and plug it into the wall.

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[music] Then, from here, we've got a couple of options. Either we can

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diligently touch this anytime we're about to handle something sensitive, or

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we can know we're just bound to be focusing on other things and put on our

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ESD bracelet with the metal side in making contact with our bare skin and

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then attach our clip to any exposed metal on our power supply.

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Realistically, paint is not a great conductor, but if you give it a little

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scratchy scratch, it'll conduct ever so slightly better. Now, obviously, there

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are other ways to ground yourself. I'm looking at them right now. But if you

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know how these work, I don't need to explain to you how to use an ESD

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bracelet. Even you smarties might not be using the anklet hack yet, though. I'm a

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big fan of this. You just clip on and your hands are completely unencumbered.

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Also, if you forget,

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whatever. Let's break away, baby. Now, we're ready. All we need is any

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reference materials that we might find useful. And if you've got one, a sponsor

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like iFix it. It's May, so it may be

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time to fix up your old broken gear. From now until May 31st, you can get 20%

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off select iFixit tool kits by going to the link in the video description. Let's

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start with the motherboard. We're going to have all these parts linked below if you guys want to follow along at home.

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But don't feel pressured to use exactly the same stuff. That's kind of the

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beauty of building a custom PC. The basic process is the same, even if the

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part numbers change a little bit from year to year. Now, one thing to note is

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anytime you're handling a board, you're going to want to handle it by the edges,

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by big plastic pieces like this, or large metal pieces like here and back

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here. And as for where you're going to want to put it down, well, see, I have

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an ESD safe workmat, but you probably won't. So, conveniently, your

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motherboard comes with a non-conductive platform called the box. Just put it on

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there. Before we get too far ahead of ourselves, though, there are a couple of things we need from in here. This small

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M.2 two retention screw, this IO shield,

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our Wi-Fi antennas, and I don't know, a

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SATA cable. Sure, if you're a first-time builder, or even if you're not, now is a

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much easier time to familiarize yourself with the layout of your motherboard. The

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B760 DS3 HAC from Gigabyte is not a

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particularly high-end board, but what it does have is the features we need and a

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very standard layout. Our CPU power connectors up here in the top left in

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its usual location. Our motherboard power connector is along the right hand

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edge. Our CPU socket is right here dead center at the top with our RAM slots

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just to the right, color-coded for dual channel operation.

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Our M.2 storage slots are just south of the CPU socket and between the PCI

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Express expansion slots. And then all of our front connectors are along the

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bottom edge with audio, RGB, USB 2,

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fans, our front IO. So that's our front power button and front lights. Some

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internal connectors for SATA, those are for our hard drives. And these are

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pretty important. USB [music] 3 and USB3

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type-C along the right hand edge, usually under the motherboard power

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connector. The last thing is at the top there's going to be a special fan

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header, usually called CPU. That one is

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special because if for whatever reason your CPU fan fails, the system can be

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programmed to shut down safely instead of overheating. Now, let's talk CPU. I

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don't know quite how this happened, but Intel has become a great choice for

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budget gaming builds these days, and the Core i5 12600 KF is a fantastic choice.

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It's got six P cores and four PU cores. That is to say, six performance cores

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and four that don't perform quite as well. It turbos to up to 4.9 GHz. And

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jokes about them aside, those weaker efficiency cores actually make it a

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formidable choice not just for gaming, but even for streaming and light content

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creation. Something to note though is that as an FK, this is not going to

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allow us to use our onboard graphics outputs. And we do prefer to have those,

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even if it's just to simplify troubleshooting. But for a $30

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difference in budget at this price point, it's just not something that we

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can justify for something we'll be replacing before we ever even power on

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the system. Now, it's time to get this thing installed. All we've got to do is

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push down the ARM here. Lift up this bad

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boy right here. Find the little golden triangle that's on the corner of our

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CPU. In this case,

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right there. Then find the corresponding triangle at the corner of the socket. Or

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if you want to be even more careful not to accidentally touch these pins, you

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can check before you lift it up. Line those two triangles up. Drop the CPU

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into place with no force whatsoever. If

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it doesn't go in, it may not be keyed correctly. So, watch out for that. Give

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it a little wiggle to make sure it's in place. Lower the top cover. Lower the

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ARM. And this should pop off. Just a little

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something like that. Hold on to this though. If you ever need to RMA your

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motherboard back to the manufacturer, they will require you to have this.

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Stop eating things. Now, let's talk about another area where

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we saved a few bucks. We went with 32 gigs of DDR4 memory, opting for this kit

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of G-Skill Rip Jaws 5. Some folks might

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have preferred we went with DDR5, but at around $80, this is a great kit for

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gaming today and in the near future and fit comfortably within our approximately

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$1,000 budget. For installation, the first thing you're going to want to do

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is check where they go. And woo, conveniently, this motherboard has a

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little silk screened legend that tells you, but if not, you can double check

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your motherboard manual. Usually, you're going to use color-coded slots and

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usually the slots furthest away from the CPU.

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Just peel back the tabs, press down firmly until they click, and you should

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be good to go. By the way, if you noticed how

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three-dimensional and spatial all of that was, you're probably watching on

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the Vision Pro with the file that we provided at LMG.gg/flowplane.

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For everyone else, guess what? You're also a winner because you didn't spend

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$3,500 on a Vision Pro. Now, we're going to need some storage for our operating

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system. And hey, what are you doing? What year is it for the operating

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system? Yeah, that's better. We've gone with the Crucial P3 Plus. Is it the

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fastest drive on the market? No. Does it have a DRAM cache which can improve

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longevity and performance? No. But what

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it does have is good enough performance and a very attractive price. We've got a

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1 TBTE drive here which will be enough for our operating system, our

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applications, and maybe even a couple of games. And while we recognize we could

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have spent more on a higher performance drive, we found that a mainstream PCIe

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Gen 4 drive is all most people are bound to notice in desktop use anyway. So the

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only question is, do we install it in the top slot, which tends to run at

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higher speeds and lower latency and is connected directly to the CPU, or do we

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run it in one of the bottom slots, which typically shares its lanes with other

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nearby slots. For us, it's really not going to matter. So eeny meeny money.

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one. All we've got to do is align our little gumstick form factor drive with

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the slot right there. Push it in, push

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it down, and then retrieve that little screw that we had earlier. And this is

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where you're going to need that number one Phillips head screwdriver. And screw

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it down a little something like this.

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It's worth noting that many modern motherboards have unique toolless

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installation methods for these M.2 drives or even large shrouds or heat

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sinks that cover up the slots. So, if you find that that's the case, just

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consult your manual for how to operate these slots and how to gain access to

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them. When you're installing your CPU cooler, the first thing you're going to

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want to do is double check what socket you're using. This will often be silk

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screened on the motherboard. In our case, we can see socket 1700, but

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otherwise, you will certainly find it in the manual or on the product page for

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your CPU. Then, what we're going to do is we're going to open this up. Ignore

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absolutely everything except get out of here. Ah, there it is. We missed it.

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This is very important because pretty much every cooler installs a little bit

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differently and sometimes a little differently on every single socket. So,

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we're going to want to find the specific instructions

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for Intel 1700. Now, obviously, your

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mileage may vary for this part depending on which cooler you bought, but the

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Thermalite Phantom Spirit 12SE is a great choice at just about any budget.

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So, I'm going to show you guys how to install it. starting by grabbing the

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back plate and flipping over your motherboard. I don't generally like

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peeling these and actually sticking this thing down, but as you can see in a

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previous take, I already started. So, I guess we're down this path now. So, all

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I'm going to do is kind of stick it to my shirt a little bit to make sure that it's not too sticky. Now, on older

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sockets, the orientation mattered, but on LGA 1700, it doesn't. So, we're just

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going to pop these little posts through the holes in the motherboard,

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stick that down, and we should be good to go. Now we put all of our fun little

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blue spacers in place. Line up our little mounting bars.

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Now for one of the most controversial steps, applying thermal compound. Here's

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how you do it.

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That's not how I would do it. That's how you do it. Look at the mess you made.

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Being serious though, that would have worked fine. You can't really put too

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much thermal compound on your CPU. All it does is make a mess. But if you don't

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want to waste it, then an amount more like this is more reasonable. We used to

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say the size of an uncooked grain of rice. Now I would say think of whatever

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the trendiest most hipster rice you can think of is and how big it is when it's

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cooked and kind of go with that. If you have a much larger CPU, like a

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workstation size or server size CPU, either spread a thin layer across the

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entire shiny integrated heat spreader or

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check their documentation. Now for the most important step. Everything else you

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did was for not. If you do not remove this peel, remove the peel. Now shiny.

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Take that shiny. Put it on the other shiny.

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Line up the post with the screws. Then give her but not fully. Once it's

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caught, I would strongly recommend tightening the other side until it

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catches. And then tightening slowly in an alternating fashion. You can just

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wrench one side all the way down and then try and get the other side to go,

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but it can be a little bit tricky. Puts a lot of strain on the motherboard, too.

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We are done. Well, not done. I mean,

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it's not a computer, is it? But done enough to deserve a nice snack.

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Now that we've enjoyed a light meal and a very heavy trip to the toilet, we're

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ready to put these wire clips onto our fans. A little something like so.

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Then we lower the fan down. Make sure it's even. Not that it really matters,

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but it matters a lot to me. And pull the clips.

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Just like that. See, not going anywhere. Not that it would want to. Anyway, look,

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I brought it a little friend. It's worth noting that this one is uh not going to

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go all the way down because it interferes with our RAM, but that's

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okay. We're still getting most of the benefit of that air flow. Now, because

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modern day, we need to plug in a thousand connectors. JK, it's not that

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bad. All we've got to do is daisy chain together these RGB connectors. [music]

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You can see there's just three pins, so they only go in one way. Boop. Then take

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this female end and plug it into where there is usually a header at the top of

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the motherboard. Then for these other two, you've got a couple of options. Our

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cooler did include a Y cable, so we can just plug into that and plug both of

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them into our CPU fan header. But our motherboard has a CPU fan and CPU opt

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header, so we can just plug both of them into that.

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Delicious. Now, for cable management,

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okay, I'm just kidding. A, don't do that

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because you can actually accidentally end up with cables that are stuck in

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your fan blades and they won't spin. That's bad. And B, because it's not

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really the time for cable management. Now is the time to do a quick test boot

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here on the test platform before you assemble the whole system and cable

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manage everything. It's a lot easier to swap a component now than it is to do it

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2 hours from now.

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And moment of truth, we can see our power button is these two pins right

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here. We short them and

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it's alive. Well, we don't know that yet. Believe it

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or not, it's normal for the system to take quite a while to turn on in the

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first place, especially AMD systems, while they undergo a process called

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memory training. So, I'm not digging into my motherboard manual for what

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these diagnostic LEDs mean for probably at least a solid minute or two. Oh,

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well. Okay. Well, the monitor has to be on.

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That's step one. Boom. Booted. Great

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sign. For bonus points, we could install Windows now. Get all of our drivers set

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up. Make sure everything's working correctly. Run some stress tests. But

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realistically, you're not that patient. You're going to

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put the rest of the system together. Now that you know all the bits and pieces

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work, you can set these aside. And it's time to get back to the build and meet

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your case. Doesn't she look so beautiful? Just lift up the veil. Give

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her a little kiss. We settled for the Fantex Eclipse 360A.

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It's a great value at the best of times. And when we put together this parts

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list, it was just $50 after rebate. It

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comes with three 120 mm fans in the

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front. And even if we're not a huge fan of the configuration, we'd suggest

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moving maybe this top one to be a rear exhaust or a top exhaust. There's no

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doubt that it'll be enough cooling for our rig. [music] Personally, I like to

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remove all my side panels and put them aside so there's no risk of them getting

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scratched or damaged while I'm completing the rest of the build. A safe

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place to put them is in the box with foam separating the two pieces. Now,

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it's time to track down all of your mounting accessories. These will usually be in either a bag or a box somewhere in

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the case or in the case packaging. In Fantex's [music]

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case, pun intended, it's clearly labeled in this box. And

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nope, this one does not include their little trademark organizers. I guess

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that's only on their more premium cases. Good luck figuring out what all these

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are for, JK. I'm going to help. But before we get to that, there's one

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really fun step that everyone loves. Installing the IO shield. If you have a

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mid-range or a high-end board, it's possible that it didn't come with one of

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these. Congratulations. If you're anyone else, now's a [music] great time to find

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any of the little pieces that fold back like this. Give them a little extra fold

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[music] to make sure that they don't end up stuck behind your port. Then line it

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up with the rectangular opening at the back of the case, pushing on each corner

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one at a time, knowing that there's a solid chance one of the other corners

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will pop out when you do it. If you're not sure about the orientation, you can

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just check the back of the motherboard and make sure that the holes correspond

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to the ports. Speaking of your motherboard, now's a perfect time to

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install it in the case. But first, we're going to do a quick sanity check. Some

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cases come with motherboard standoffs pre-installed in the motherboard tray.

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In fact, you can see I've got six nine

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of them in this particular case. This is really convenient, but if you happen to

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have a mismatch between the whole layout of your motherboard and the

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pre-installed standoffs in your case, it can cause a standoff to correspond to a

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spot where there isn't a hole and scratch the traces, permanently

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destroying your board. So, [music] we've done a quick count and determined that

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we have both nine standoffs and nine holes. We're going to orient the back of

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the board with the IO shield. Then,

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keeping this side well clear of those metal standoffs, slide it toward the

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back and hopefully, there we go, get it

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to line up perfectly with our standoffs. You may find this process easier if you

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lay the case down, but I'm making a video, so I can't do that. Now, quickly

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install one screw, and only one for now.

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There's a couple of quick things that we want to check.

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First, are there any metal tabs sticking into our ports, preventing us from using

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them, or worse, shorting them out, causing damage to our board? [music] No.

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Good to go. Second, have we accidentally caught anything under our board that

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prevents us from screwing it down? Ah, there you can see we've got a cable

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that's stuck back there. If we tried to screw the board down with that back

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there, we could accidentally cause a lot of undue stress as we tighten down the

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one side while this part is bulging out.

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Also, since we're pushing it down, the last thing we want to check is that

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through every single hole, we can see a standoff. If we pre-counted them and we

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know that they match, then if we can see a standoff through everyone, [music]

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that means we have no extras that can damage our board. Time to start

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screwing. But which screws do we use? [music] This case comes with coarser

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threaded 632 screws and finer threaded M3 screws. Which ones are for the

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motherboard? Well, it actually varies from case to case. So, there's a couple

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ways to check. You can consult your manual or you can just trial and error

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it by starting with a finer threaded M3. It won't do any damage. It'll just slip

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out if it's not the right size and you can switch over to a 632. In our case,

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M3 is the right size. So, we're going to go ahead and do our other eight screws.

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If you're having trouble getting a screw installed because there's a cooler in

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the way or another obstruction, honestly, the best advice I can give you

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is not to sweat it. If you've got eight of your nine screws installed, that's no

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[music] problem as long as you don't have any extra standoffs. Before we plug

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in our front IO, let's go ahead and get one of those fans moved. Normally, I

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would suggest removing the front panel, usually by grabbing it firmly from the

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bottom, but in this case, um, they are

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not screwed in from the front. They are actually screwed in in the back. You can

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use scissors to cut these, but I really don't recommend it. Side cutters are

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much safer if you don't want to risk damaging any of the wires that they're holding. It's worth noting that many

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modern fans will have two or even three connectors [music] coming off of them.

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This guy right here with four pins or three pins in these little ridges is for

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power. This one right here is for RGB.

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And the last one is for RGB daisy chaining. So, I'll show you guys how to

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hook this back up once we've moved it. Since we're going to be using this as an

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exhaust, now we're going to want to look for the little arrows that indicate the

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direction that the blades travel. This [music] one right here, and the

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direction that the air flow goes. And then I usually like to have the leads up

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towards this cutout at the back of the case so that I can route it back behind

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the motherboard tray. Now just tighten these boys up. You want to go hard

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enough that the fan is held firmly to the case without vibrating or rattling,

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but not so hard that you strip out the threads. And they are plastic, so you do

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need to be a little bit careful. Now it's time to hook our RGB back up. And

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in order to do this correctly, we need to understand a little bit of how the

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RGB works. In this case, it has a lead

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that plugs into your motherboard to get an RGB signal. And then it has a

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built-in hub. So, we're going to need to power this with a SATA power adapter

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later. But more importantly for us right now, we need to have a look at how the

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other devices are plugged into it and daisy chained together. So, the first

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link goes to our bottom fan here, which

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then is daisy chained into our second fan here. Meaning that any multi-device

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animations are going to start at the bottom front of the case and d make

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their way to the top back if we connect it like this. If we had additional fans,

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say here and here, for example, we would want to make sure that we plug in this

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00:21:23,200 --> 00:21:28,240
one, then this one, then this one. Otherwise, things are going to end up

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looking a little weird. Since we're back here, now is a great time to route any

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other cables that need to make their way to the front of the case as well. So,

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we're going to put our USB 3 over here. We're gonna put our power switch right

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around here. And we're gonna put our front panel audio. Oh, is there a hole

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there? Oh, yeah, there is. Right around there. Hey, stay in there. Hey. Hey.

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Hey, stay in there. Back at the front, here's our USB3 connector. You can see

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it's got a little key and a little slot to make sure that it only goes in one

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way. The most important thing here is just to make sure you've actually got it

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perfectly lined up before you press down because those little pins in the socket

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are extremely fragile.

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There we go. The power switch is not keyed and like the rest of these

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00:22:10,720 --> 00:22:17,679
connectors for the reset switch, power LED, and drive activity LED is not

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really very fragile. So, we're just going to throw it on there. And the

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reality of it is if you plug any of these in in the wrong orientation, it

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won't harm anything. [music] Just try it the other way if your LEDs

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don't illuminate. Finally, our front panel audio connector is keyed and is

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going to go into Oh, look how handy dandly labeled that is into our audio

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[music] header right there. Boop. Wow, look at all that progress.

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Now, let's plug in our fans. Usually, there are headers along this edge, along

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this edge, and potentially at the top left. And that's where they are. So,

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sure. Let's plug these two into the headers right here. And let's plug this

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one into the one up there. Something you may notice, by the way, about plugging

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things in in the top corner of the case here is that when you have an air cooler

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installed, it's pretty freaking tricky. So, if you have a modular power supply,

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a good pro tip is to plug in this connector and realistically anything

331
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else before you put on your cooler. Otherwise, [music]

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hey, worst case scenario, you can pop off this fan, take the cooler out, plug

333
00:23:20,080 --> 00:23:25,600
everything in, and then pop it right back on. Don't sweat it. It's a minor

334
00:23:23,760 --> 00:23:32,559
mistake. Now, it's time to plug in our RGB. Woohoo. Let's just go ahead and run

335
00:23:28,799 --> 00:23:36,400
it over to Oh no, we already used it

336
00:23:32,559 --> 00:23:38,880
when we plugged in our cooler. Hm. Well,

337
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there is another four pin RGB connector here, but don't try to force it. The

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00:23:41,520 --> 00:23:48,960
four pin ones run at 12 VTs and they will fry any of these 3 pin 5V LEDs that

339
00:23:46,880 --> 00:23:52,799
you plug into them. Fortunately, we've got a couple of options. Our

340
00:23:50,559 --> 00:23:59,120
motherboard, like many modern ones, has two RGB connectors. So, we can just run

341
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that down there. Or, if you remember, we

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have daisy chains already. We could just

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plug this into our motherboard here

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and then grab the other end of our daisy chain for our CPU RGB. It's up to you.

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Just whatever you do, [music] don't bend the pins like I just did. Now, it's time

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00:24:18,080 --> 00:24:24,000
for our power supply, which I realized I mentioned earlier, but never really

347
00:24:21,279 --> 00:24:28,559
talked about. We've gone with the RM750e from Corsair. It's fully modular. It's

348
00:24:26,559 --> 00:24:33,200
quiet. It's reasonably [music] priced. And perhaps most importantly, it's rated

349
00:24:31,120 --> 00:24:37,840
platinum from Cybernetics, who I trust quite a bit more than the folks at 80

350
00:24:35,679 --> 00:24:42,159
Plus these days to tell me what's a good power supply. We haven't done any of our

351
00:24:40,000 --> 00:24:46,880
own testing on this one, but that'll be coming soon enough at ltlabs.com.

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Now, there's two different orientations. You can see that I put it in with the

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00:24:48,559 --> 00:24:54,960
fan facing the bottom. And that's great as long as I've got a case that has a

354
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filtered air intake on the bottom, just like this one. Oo, and it's easy to

355
00:24:56,960 --> 00:25:01,840
clean, too. But if I had a case that

356
00:25:00,159 --> 00:25:06,320
either [music] didn't have a filtered intake on the bottom, or didn't have

357
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raised feet to make sure that it's getting a supply of fresh air and it's

358
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not going to get suffocated by my carpet, then I might turn it around and

359
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have my intake at the top. But that would mean that it [music] would typically run a little bit warmer. You

360
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can see that I pre-attached my cables. And the ones that I need for this build

361
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are my 24 pin connector, my 8 pin

362
00:25:24,202 --> 00:25:32,000
[music] EPS connector. Oh, where'd it go?

363
00:25:28,240 --> 00:25:34,159
Aha, there it is. My 8 pin EPS or CPU

364
00:25:32,000 --> 00:25:39,039
power connector. Distinguishable from the other 8 pin by the fact that it

365
00:25:36,159 --> 00:25:45,440
separates into two four pins rather than da da da a six and a two. So, my two

366
00:25:42,559 --> 00:25:49,200
PCIe 8 pin power connectors. And finally, a SATA power connector. I'm

367
00:25:48,320 --> 00:25:55,120
going to [music] need that. Actually, I'm going to need two of these, but I have four. Now, just to mix things up,

368
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I'm going to be using the 632 screws that I mentioned before, but didn't use.

369
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Just four of these in the back of the power supply. And if you have any extras, hey, don't worry. They're

370
00:26:02,559 --> 00:26:10,080
delicious. Now, to run these to where they go. This

371
00:26:06,640 --> 00:26:13,520
one goes about here.

372
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This one goes uh here. This one goes

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where our GPU is going to end up right around.

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And our SATA power is going to hang out down here. I'll show you guys what we're going to do with that later. The

375
00:26:21,520 --> 00:26:26,559
trickiest part of plugging in these big long connectors is just making sure

376
00:26:24,960 --> 00:26:30,880
you've got them oriented right. So, there's a little latch here. There's a

377
00:26:28,799 --> 00:26:36,080
little catch here. Those go on the same side. Line them up. And you got to

378
00:26:34,080 --> 00:26:39,679
really press and make sure that you hear that click. You guys hear that? Let's

379
00:26:38,159 --> 00:26:46,919
try again. click. If it's not clicked,

380
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it didn't stick.

381
00:26:47,520 --> 00:26:52,960
Sure. I mean, sometimes they don't click.

382
00:26:51,360 --> 00:27:00,480
Same goes for our eight pin up in the corner. Let's go ahead and click that back together to make the installation a

383
00:26:55,840 --> 00:27:02,240
little bit easier. And then, uh, yeah,

384
00:27:00,480 --> 00:27:05,679
this will be a little bit tricky, but but nothing you can't handle, you

385
00:27:03,760 --> 00:27:11,760
dextrous folks. Now, it's time to install our hard drive. We went with the

386
00:27:07,440 --> 00:27:13,279
two TBTE WD Blue from WD because it was

387
00:27:11,760 --> 00:27:17,520
affordable and we needed somewhere to put our games. So, let's go ahead and

388
00:27:15,679 --> 00:27:22,000
just pop these little sides out of these toolless hard drive trays. Then, we just

389
00:27:19,919 --> 00:27:26,000
put this bad boy in here. We're going to want these screw holes to line up with

390
00:27:24,000 --> 00:27:31,279
the little nubbins that we're going to close onto them. Anytime now, buddy.

391
00:27:28,720 --> 00:27:36,960
Then, we just close these up. Take the whole thing and give it a little shovel

392
00:27:34,320 --> 00:27:41,360
into this tray down here. Look at that. Since we're down here, now

393
00:27:39,520 --> 00:27:47,760
is a perfectly good time to go ahead and plug in our SATA power. Note that this

394
00:27:43,679 --> 00:27:50,400
is also keyed like so many other things.

395
00:27:47,760 --> 00:27:54,399
There we are. And oh, I guess now's a perfectly good time to plug in our SATA

396
00:27:52,240 --> 00:27:58,159
data as well. [music] We have a side panel to close here. So, I'm going to go

397
00:27:55,840 --> 00:28:06,279
ahead and use this right angle connector as long as we've got enough clearance.

398
00:28:01,120 --> 00:28:06,279
Here we go. A yeah,

399
00:28:06,799 --> 00:28:12,399
there you go. The lock goes on the top. [music] Now we plug our next SATA power

400
00:28:10,480 --> 00:28:17,279
connector into our front panel there. There we go. And we can just tuck these

401
00:28:14,880 --> 00:28:21,279
boys, I don't know, right around there. Now, it's worth noting, by the way, that

402
00:28:19,120 --> 00:28:24,000
these trays can accommodate 2 and 1/2 in drives as well. You can see they've got

403
00:28:22,640 --> 00:28:28,799
these little holes so you can screw in an SSD. I don't really recommend buying

404
00:28:26,480 --> 00:28:34,320
SATA SSDs anymore, though, now that the prices are so similar to NVMe SSDs and

405
00:28:31,440 --> 00:28:37,279
the performance is decidedly last gen. But hey, if you're bringing over an old

406
00:28:35,679 --> 00:28:40,960
drive, you can either install them on these sleds or because they have no

407
00:28:39,360 --> 00:28:44,880
moving parts and it doesn't matter. You can huck them on these, you can [music]

408
00:28:43,360 --> 00:28:48,880
just pile them up in the bottom of your case like I've seen so many people do.

409
00:28:46,799 --> 00:28:53,039
You just kind of you do you do you do whatever works for you. Now, let's take

410
00:28:50,559 --> 00:28:57,679
the other end of this SATA cable, thread it through here. Oh wow, that's an

411
00:28:55,600 --> 00:29:02,480
amazing noise. There we go. Turn this around and plug

412
00:29:00,320 --> 00:29:07,039
it into our right angle SATA connector here at the front of the case.

413
00:29:05,440 --> 00:29:10,960
This motherboard will support up to four drives. Not bad. Now, look at that.

414
00:29:09,360 --> 00:29:14,720
We're just about done. All we got to do is a little bit of cable management. You

415
00:29:13,039 --> 00:29:19,200
don't have to do a lot. I won't judge you, but think of yourself like a PC

416
00:29:17,200 --> 00:29:24,720
building detective. You want to be able to at least close the case, you know?

417
00:29:22,159 --> 00:29:30,960
Now for the big moment. unboxing our GPU. We went with the Radeon 6800. Is it

418
00:29:28,640 --> 00:29:36,080
the most modern thing? No, it's actually last gen, but it's a great value, which

419
00:29:33,760 --> 00:29:40,480
has been kind of a theme for this build. And compared to the 7700,

420
00:29:38,720 --> 00:29:44,880
it yeah, consumes a little bit more power, but performs similarly and is

421
00:29:42,799 --> 00:29:50,080
less expensive. And compared to similarly priced offerings from team

422
00:29:46,720 --> 00:29:52,799
green like the RTX 4060 series, it has

423
00:29:50,080 --> 00:29:57,840
16 gigs of video memory, which should make it hopefully

424
00:29:55,279 --> 00:30:00,960
a good performer for quite a few years to come. Before we can install it

425
00:29:59,520 --> 00:30:05,600
though, we need to prep our case for the surgery. Let's go ahead and loosen our

426
00:30:02,880 --> 00:30:09,520
PCI slot cover holder thing. Not every case is going to have one of these, but

427
00:30:07,679 --> 00:30:13,120
every case will have [music] these screws at the back. So, let's just

428
00:30:11,600 --> 00:30:17,679
figure out which slot we're going to be using. It's going to be this one. So,

429
00:30:15,120 --> 00:30:24,000
we're going to take out these two screws to accommodate

430
00:30:19,520 --> 00:30:25,440
Uhhuh. the double slot IO plate.

431
00:30:24,000 --> 00:30:28,640
With that out of the way, now's a great time to take a closer look at our GPU

432
00:30:27,200 --> 00:30:34,080
and talk through some of the choices that we made earlier. You saw us pop off

433
00:30:30,720 --> 00:30:35,440
this PCIe slot cover earlier. Damn it.

434
00:30:34,080 --> 00:30:39,679
Well, whatever. I don't need that. So, if you didn't test on the bench, now is

435
00:30:37,440 --> 00:30:44,880
a good time to take that off. as well as any display ports that you're planning

436
00:30:41,279 --> 00:30:46,320
to use, be they HDMI or DisplayPort.

437
00:30:44,880 --> 00:30:50,399
Now, there's two other things. Remember when I said that the fan that we wanted

438
00:30:48,399 --> 00:30:58,120
to take away was this one in the top? The reason for that is that our GPU uses

439
00:30:52,720 --> 00:30:58,120
a three fan design that draws air in

440
00:30:59,279 --> 00:31:04,880
here. So, we want to be bringing that fresh air from those bottom fans and

441
00:31:02,880 --> 00:31:09,279
blowing it right across [music] our GPU. The other decision that we made earlier

442
00:31:06,720 --> 00:31:14,320
was to use our old school 8pin [music] PCIe power connectors. That's because

443
00:31:11,760 --> 00:31:20,159
this card does not use the new 12volt high power connector. It uses dual 8pin

444
00:31:17,120 --> 00:31:22,240
PCIe power connectors. Now we can go

445
00:31:20,159 --> 00:31:27,399
ahead and get this installed. All we got to do is line up the slot with the slot.

446
00:31:28,000 --> 00:31:35,919
Watch out for this. Okay. Make sure that these are inside the case and not

447
00:31:32,480 --> 00:31:35,919
ramming into the motherboard.

448
00:31:36,320 --> 00:31:42,240
push down firmly. You should feel a little bit of

449
00:31:40,159 --> 00:31:47,200
resistance. And then if you want to make sure that it's in, you can just see if

450
00:31:44,880 --> 00:31:52,240
this lock at the back of the PCI slot here is engaged. Mine is, and it's not

451
00:31:50,320 --> 00:31:56,559
going anywhere. Now, all we got to do is find those

452
00:31:54,480 --> 00:32:02,640
power connectors that I just showed you. Hope that we didn't Oh, no. Get them

453
00:31:59,519 --> 00:32:04,480
mashed under the GPU. Ha. There we go.

454
00:32:02,640 --> 00:32:09,039
And then just like we did on our motherboard connectors, check for where

455
00:32:06,240 --> 00:32:12,480
the clip is. Check for where the holder for the clip is. Make sure we didn't

456
00:32:10,559 --> 00:32:16,080
cable manage them too tight and plug them in. It's worth noting, by the way,

457
00:32:14,240 --> 00:32:19,840
that some folks recommend using two separate cables rather than a daisy

458
00:32:18,159 --> 00:32:23,760
chain style connector like this one. If you've got a GPU that requires two

459
00:32:21,360 --> 00:32:29,440
plugs, they're not wrong. That is better. But the actual risk of anything

460
00:32:26,720 --> 00:32:34,240
going wrong by using one of these is pretty much negligible. And this isn't a

461
00:32:32,000 --> 00:32:38,000
particularly high draw GPU in the first place, so I am taking a calculated

462
00:32:36,080 --> 00:32:42,399
non-risk here. Now, it's time to screw our GPU back in. These are often thumb

463
00:32:40,080 --> 00:32:46,640
screws, but I strongly recommend using a screwdriver to install them anyway

464
00:32:44,240 --> 00:32:50,240
because it can be really tricky to get these holes aligned just right and have

465
00:32:48,559 --> 00:32:53,840
your thumbs in there like that. So, just yeah, do yourself a favor. Use a

466
00:32:51,679 --> 00:32:57,200
magnetic screwdriver if you can. I also like to lift the GPU up a little bit

467
00:32:55,519 --> 00:33:00,640
while I'm installing it cuz, you know, it's going to sag a bit anyway and I

468
00:32:58,720 --> 00:33:03,760
like to see it level. That's also one of the reasons that I like having the power

469
00:33:02,240 --> 00:33:06,640
connectors come from the top and then I'll tension them quite tight to take a

470
00:33:05,360 --> 00:33:09,840
little bit of the strain off if I don't happen to have a GPU support. Of course,

471
00:33:08,559 --> 00:33:13,919
if you have a 3D printer and know someone who has one, there are like a

472
00:33:11,919 --> 00:33:21,399
bazillion GPU supports that you can print out. And is that it? Let's get her

473
00:33:18,080 --> 00:33:21,399
buttoned up.

474
00:33:24,480 --> 00:33:31,600
Good job. You did it. Treat yourself to a snack.

475
00:33:29,440 --> 00:33:37,360
M and she still works. Fantastic. Not only

476
00:33:34,320 --> 00:33:40,399
that, but wow, great job. Your RGB

477
00:33:37,360 --> 00:33:41,840
lighting looks amazing.

478
00:33:40,399 --> 00:33:47,720
Now, if you don't mind, I'm just going to excuse myself to the washroom. I think I might have bruised my head

479
00:33:44,720 --> 00:33:47,720
earlier.

480
00:33:50,523 --> 00:33:58,399
[screaming] Oh no. If I can't get these off, I'll

481
00:33:55,200 --> 00:34:01,360
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