we've done a lot of liquid cooling over the years ranging from super jank diy to
aios to all the way up to subzero
chiller units but there are still some things that
we've never messed with until now
going full hard mode with copper
rather than plastic tubing it's a lot of work and the learning
curve looks a little something like this but boy oh boy is the end result ever
shiny Corsair's vengeance RGB pro series
overclocked memory utilizes dynamic multi-zone RGB lighting to light up your
rig check it out at the link below
so the first question is why
why would we do something like this i mean it's good to try new things but
aside from that is there any reason to
use metal tubing copper or otherwise
truthfully other than looks no
so if you're only worried about cooling performance it's probably best to stay
with inexpensive soft plastic tubing because as i demonstrated during
scrapyard wars 2 even a massive coil of
copper tubing doesn't dissipate much heat so
the relatively small runs in your case won't make a measurable difference
so then with that out of the way let's get started the case dictates a lot of
the other components that you might choose for a build like this so that
came first we chose the refreshed lialee
pc011 dubbed the dynamic for its
all-white interior tempered glass side and front panels and its spacious trunk
which makes it perfect for hiding tubing and cables next up is the actual gaming
bits for once here we're actually going to take a step back from insanity and
just build a respectable color coordinated high-end gaming machine that
is without an extreme edition CPU and titan graphics card so we opted for
Intel's 8700k one of the best processors for gaming made it to an ASUS z370a
prime the whitest board in their lineup for this chip RAM then was an easy pick
as the best looking light RAM on the market imo is Corsair's vengeance RGB in
white of course for our graphics card we would have loved to use the latest gtx
rtx excuse me rtx 2080 ti
but water blocks weren't quite available yet when we started this build so we
went with the next best thing a 1080 ti which is still a very powerful card and
significantly more affordable which meh if you told me a year ago i'd be calling
a 1080 ti more affordable
anywho for storage we opted for a 512
gig samsung 960 pro as our boot drive with a couple of iron wolf pros and the
pc-011's rear butt flap for storage
which brings us to water cooling where things get a little more unusual
now one of the manufacturers that we featured in our cheap aliexpress water
cooling video barrow actually makes some really cool case
specific water distribution slash
reservoir blocks and they happened to have one for the pco11
so that one was an easy buy then for the rest of the system we
requisitioned a bunch of goodies from our friends over at ek going for mostly
their standard affair stuff including their previous flagship supremacy evo
CPU block a full cover 1080ti GPU block
a couple of their slim 360 millimeter radiators and then a metric boatload of
fittings now sadly while we were able to use
their straight 16 millimeter hard-line fittings these are the same ones that
you need for plastic tubing by the way they still don't have 90 degree fittings
so we needed to paint our own with everything dry fitted the next step was
sanding the fittings and radiators with a sanding block for optimal paint
adhesion oh and before you guys head to the comments below yes we masked off the
radiator fins an extra layer of paint isn't going to destroy your rad but it's
not ideal for thermals either now let's get back to the star of the show the
copper tubing there are actually
way more different types of copper tubing and pipe than i expected be it
coiled straight soft hard or whatever
combination of the four of them but you actually don't need to worry
about any of that because we already went out and spent the money to figure
out which one's best so that you don't have to initially we thought that coiled tubing
would be our best bet this kind of copper is pre-annealed
which means that in the factory the pipe was heated up red hot then cooled to
soften the metal now for materials like steel if you
quench the metal after heating it actually hardens it making it great for
use in tools for example but with copper
heating then immediately cooling it actually softens it making it perfect
for bending or so we thought in practice even with a
fancy patented straightening tool like this one from eastwood the tube never
ends up all that straight and it's got little bumps and blemishes all over it
so coiled tubing wouldn't work for the clean aesthetic
that we wanted a better choice ended up being straight
hard half inch diameter copper pipe which it's called half inch but it
actually has a 5 8 inch outer diameter
one really important note here though is that you'll want to use the slightly
more expensive type k pipe its walls are
a little bit thicker which makes it easier and cleaner to bend
from here the process is actually pretty similar to regular hard-line tubing each
run starts with roughly estimating the length of the run with a little bit of
extra on each end and cutting the pipe with our pipe cutter the one that you're
looking at now by the way will run from our CPU block to the barrow distribution
block then because we do still need to anneal the copper before we can bend it
our tube needs to be heated up for a minute or two we used a matte gas torch
now it's really important here for the part that you intend to bend to get
visibly hot and it should be noted that it actually
doesn't have to all be that same hot color at the same time so once you see
it starting to get red you can begin to work your way around
once you're done you can quench the pipe in a bucket of water and then freak out
a little over the gross discoloration that you'll be spending the next few
hours dealing with with a piece of sandpaper and some polish now we didn't
do it this way hindsight is 20 20 as they say but we'd recommend that you do
the bulk of your sanding before you bend the pipes because it is a lot easier to
sand and polish a straight pipe than a bent one
as they say anywho now it's bending time
since these are just single 90 degree bends thanks to our
fancy pants distribution block we don't really need to mark out our bend and we
can just kind of go for it i'd recommend for a bender that you get something with
a fairly large radius like this one that we got on ebay for 50 bucks
smaller radius benders can you know give you a tighter bend obviously but they
can also cause some pretty severe crushing creating flat spots on your
bends that will be very noticeable especially if you go for a smooth
polished look on your pipes we ended up initially filling our pipes with sand to
help them retain their shape during the bend but it turned out later that this
wasn't necessary for us though if you're having issues it might be worth a try
the process was honestly pretty rinse and repeat from here so
um i guess let's watch a fancy time lapse then of Jake bending and fitting the
pipes
one more pro tip here by the way if you already sanded your pipes and you want
to keep them as scratch free as possible we'd recommend putting some grease on
the mating surfaces of the bender at this point all the painted parts were
dry and we could get into installation of the finished parts
first was our CPU block with a white painted hold down plate and RGB shroud
then we installed our GPU back plate our nicely painted white radiators and the
custom 3d printed pump top for our ddc pump we actually didn't have the
appropriate o-ring for mounting to the distribution block so this was fun we
ended up making use of some high-temp silicone which worked surprisingly well
wow looking good all done right no
because we were dumb and didn't pre-sand it it all has to come out again for
sanding and then polishing and i won't bore you with every detail but the basic
process for us involved sanding each pipe with a fairly rough 400 grit
sandpaper then polishing with some brasso this gave us a pleasing brushed
finish that we really liked because the high shine polish style tubing didn't
really fit the look we were going for or the time frame that we were going for
for this build by the way we'd recommend sealing the tubes with something like
brass lacquer when you're done as the polish doesn't do much for preventing
tarnish now for final assembly we mounted our tubes again ran our sexy
cablemod pro cable kit made it to our supremely reasonable rm750x power supply
and hoped for the best pga lights on now that's good yeah
there we go once the RAM issues were resolved it
actually did end up working and the fill went pretty smooth with only one small
leak Jake forgot to put the o-ring back on one of the CPU fittings bringing us
finally to the moment you've been waiting for that sweet sweet minute of jaw-dropping
b-roll of what may be our most beautiful system yet
and that's how you water cool with copper pipe we're probably never going
to do it again but if you want to go for it then you know what i say
fill your boots have some fun tear your hair out a little yeah
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Linus that's dollarshaveclub.com Linus we're going to have that linked below
so thanks for watching guys if this video sucked you know what to do but
like think think before thumbsing it down you
know how much work this was for Jake
but if you liked the video hit like get subscribed or maybe consider checking
out where to buy the stuff we featured in the video description also link down
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