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check the link in the video description for more details welcome to the ultimate
video card water block installation guide right here we have nus GeForce GTX
Titan and step one guys is for the love
of whatever you believe in please test
the card before installing a water block on it because it's an awful lot of work
to take it apart put it back together take it apart and then put it back
together when you find out it doesn't work after you've put a water block on
it make sure you're working at a safe anti-static workstation in our case
we're using a modm from Mod right next lay out everything you're going to need
so Tools in this case a Philips head screwdriver next is Hardware so in this
case our graphics card as well as all the pieces that were included with our
water block itself a little bin for screws it's a disaster if you lose those
isopropyl alcohol as well as something to clean thermal compound off with and
last but not least guys instructions I don't care who you are if you're not
reading the instructions for a water block you're doing it wrong it's very
important because sometimes there will even be last minute revision notices
posted on the instructions step four remove the stock heat sink before you
start I recommend taking pictures so that if you have to put it back together
you're going to have a point of reference to use later
on
as you remove screws put them somewhere safe this is incredibly important
because whether you're selling your graphics card down the road or whether
you have to send it in for a warranty repair you may need to be able to put
that stock cooler back
on always be sure that you've removed
all the screws before attempting to take the heat SN off sometimes there can be
one left that you didn't spot before or
one that's a little bit tricky to find such as the one that holds the card onto
the io panel right
here another couple of spots where you might find tricky screws are
here those are pretty tight remove those with a different screwdriver and then
I've sometimes found ones at the back of the card that need to be removed as well
but that's not the case with the Titan these two do need to go though one thing
to watch out for as you're removing screws is not all the screws in the
graphics card are the same so either with pictures or by labeling them as you
go make sure you keep track of what goes where remember it could be 2 to 3 years
by the time you have to reassemble this thing so once all the screws are removed
pull the PCB away from the heat sink with a twisting motion rather than with
a pulling motion to ensure that you don't pull any RAM modules off of the
PCB as you go there we
go carefully remove any fan
headers or LED light headers without damaging the
connectors take all of the thermal pads that are still attached to the card and
put them back on the cooler this helps
you keep them safe and in the right place during
storage next put the card aside for now
and and put all of the screws back exactly where they went into the stock
cooler step six is the same as one of the other steps please for the love of
everything RTM read the manual this
particular water block comes with two different thicknesses of thermal pads
read the manual and you will know why don't read the manual and you could end
up frying your GPU that serious guys
step seven seven is to clean the existing paste off of the GPU core I
usually use toilet paper for the first round as well as 99% isopropyl
alcohol flip it over for a clean
side and take another run at
it then as a last Finishing Touch once you've dried all the alcohol
off of it it's never a bad idea to take a lintree cloth in this case I'm just
going to use my sleeve cuz I don't have one handy and ensure that there are no
toilet paper bits left on the GPU itself that can affect cooling it's also never
a bad idea particularly for some configurations where you're going to be
using small heat sinks on the RAM or vrm components to do a quick pass of those
ones cuz there might be a little bit of oily residue left on them that would
cause additional thermal adhesives that you put on afterwards to not stick
correctly now because we read the manual we know to use the 7 thick thermal pads
instead of the one thickness thermal pads because this one is for most cases
but because of manufacturing tolerance issues with some gpus you might need to
add a slightly thicker thermal pad for you know these memory modules or these
ones where this one doesn't quite make contact but if you use this one in the
first place it could hold the block so far away from the card that the GPU
itself doesn't get adequately cooled now
what we'll need to do is cut to size so
you can either measure this or hold it up against the right spot or just kind
of eyeball it thermal pad
strips remove the backing from both
sides this is very important because if you don't do that then your parts will
overheat so there's one piece and a
second piece there we
go then apply these to all of the parts
indicated by the instruction manual in this case it comes on a separate piece
of paper that indicates exactly where all the thermal pads go once you've cut
them to
size in the case of this water block we need thermal pads not only on the CPU
block itself but also on the aluminum
back plate aluminum aluminum
aluminium as they say in some
territories not in Canada that's not even a Canadian accent
which really begs the question why did I say it at
all next up is to apply new thermal
compound to the GPU itself you can use the included thermal compound in this
case we will be but you can get better quality aftermarket thermal compounds a
lot of the time than the stuff that tends to get included with these blocks
uh my personal favorite thermal compound is IC
Diamond uses like diamonds and
stuff for gpus I do tend to use a little bit of a different methodology than for
CPUs I tend to spread out the compound a bit more because they tend to be a bit
larger and I tend to put on a little bit
more this is a non-conductive thermal goop so I'm not too worried about it
getting sort of over the edges here and causing a short for this next part I
recommend taking the water block and putting it on something that is raised a
little bit above the surface of your work area it's important to give room for the
rear iio to overhang the surface that you're working on line up the block
carefully with the mounting holes in the back of the card see this you can just
VIs visually check as you put it down
then once you have everything aligned just going to poke my head in here to
make sure I've got it there we go I
would press it down then you're actually going to
remove it this allows you to check on the
thermal pads to make sure that everything was making adequate contact
and gives you a pretty good look at the spread of the GPU thermal paste this
looks all right by the time we crank this down tight
that should be spread out just fine so we're going to put that back on and
we're ready to tighten her down the aluminum back plate goes on before we
put on the screws because many of them actually go through
it there we are and this particular
block comes with optional plastic washers to keep the screw heads from
scratching the top of the aluminum back plate however I'm not too worried about
that and I would rather the clean look of the screws directly through the back
plate to having those plastic washers in everything goes in lightly to start very
very lightly to start we don't start cranking things tight until all the
screws are in I recommend starting with the GPU screws themselves in a cross
pattern before moving on to the ones all over the rest of the card now that
everything's in Loosely we're ready to start tightening things down you don't
want to Wrench It super tight remember that's a fragile graphics card under
there but you also want to make sure that everything's making good contact
with the thermal interface material on both the aluminum back plate and on the
GPU water block itself this next part is
totally personal preference guys but you're going to have to get some
fittings for your GPU block most of them
well pretty much all of them these days use G1 qu threads which means as long as
you get G1 quter fittings you should be good to go in our case we're using some
coolant 3/8 in ID 5/8 in od compression
fittings and the these you have the option of either installing on the top
of the card so here or you can take out the plugs on the bottom and install them
here you don't want to put them both fittings on one side CU then it'll go
right through without cooling anything but as long as you put one either here
or here and the other either here or here the water will pass through the
card so this gives you a lot of flexibility in terms of how you connect
the tubing to your graphics card so
there you have it guys now you've installed the water block on your graphics card this yields better
temperatures and it can with GPU Boost 2.0 yield better performance as well as
a different overall look in terms of the Aesthetics of the card now whether you
prefer the stock cooler on something like a GTX Titan or the water block look
is totally up to the individual but I personally don't find that there's much
that's sexier than a couple of graphics cards or even more than that water
cooled next to each other in an SLI or Crossfire configuration thanks for
checking out our ultimate video card water block installation guide as always
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